BSA Bantam D10A Engine, for the D5 project. Initial Inspection.

In this video i make an initial Inspection of the D10A engine I have bought for the upcoming D5 project.
I find a few challenges along the way which should provide interesting repair opportunities.
I hope that you enjoy the video, please click the like button if you do and feel free to leave me a comment with your thoughts.
If you are not already subscribed, please do, it will help me to grow the channel.
Thanks for watching!
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[@colvinator1611]

Very helpful video thankyou. As I look forward to my first Bantam next year ( yes, I've managed to survive for 77 years without a Bantam ) your presentation is excellent and music / speed up free !

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Thank you Colin and welcome.

[@MrFactotum]

eyup Dean Enjoyed it, It will make a nice project and bring another engine back to life. something to keep the "grey cells" busy!!!! I look forward to it. take care Kev

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Cheers Kev, it will definitely keep me entertained!

[@michaelbaker1346]

Excellent video. Lots of bits to find but running 4 speed bantam engines are big money these days. As regards the dipstick the 4 speeds don't have one. There is a screw on the clutch cover to check the level

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Great information, thanks Michael. It's relegated under the bench at the moment whilst I concentrate on the D7. Best wishes, Dean.

[@bobridgwell3152]

Bit of tig welding and time serts will fix that lovely.bob smiths engine service

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Thanks Bob. I agree, definitely recoverable. I'm looking forward to having a go at them. Best wishes, Dean.

[@OzBSABantams]

Another great video Dean........You certainly like a challenge! Those cases are more than recoverable. I use a MIG welder to repair damaged cases where the chain has broken out the centre case and I have also done barrel stud repairs and redrilled as you suggested with great success. I find I can get the wire into the base of the hole and just let it fill up. I set up in the mill and fly cut the base surface. I might add I drill the hole larger to give me a clean welding surface prior to welding. The wire I use is a Boss weld brand available from a large hardware retailer here and it seems to go really well with whatever the alloy composition BSA used in their castings. I couldn't agree more with a weld repair and re-drill the cases exactly how you explained it. The bulk of those hard to get D10 engines and components does look really good and well worth recovering. Is the grinding on the conrod possibly from the crank rubbing against the flywheel? I'm sure a bloke of your talents won't have too much trouble getting these issues resolved and produce another well engineered serviceable engine. You may even be lucky enough to stumble across another CDI at another auto jumble to really enhance that engine too, given most of the electrics aren't there.............

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Bones, thanks for the great advice and encouragement. I am a glutton for punishment! It sounds as though you have carried out the exact repair that I'm considering with success. It's good to know that they can be welded up. I'm not sure about the grinding on the Conrod, it could be from earlier rub damage but it looks quite...deliberate! There isn't any real play in the big end so someone has been in there. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a D10 ignition, that would be a stroke of luck. Best wishes, Dean.

[@carlwilson1772]

Fantastic video, really enjoyed it. Love your presenting style now, it is like being there with you. If only I was. Interesting engine. Those long winter evenings are just going to fly by aren't they? If there is anyone who can overcome all those issues then it is you. I now understand why you were talking to me about upgrading your tig welder! I think all that stuff is do-able. I had to have a little giggle when you said you were going to loosely reassemble the engine. It couldn't get much more loosely assembled, could it?!

[@retromechanicalengineer]

I was half expecting to find bodge tape! I think it's going to be an interesting project.

[@carlwilson1772]

@@retromechanicalengineer I think you can say that again, with bells on. You bought that new welder yet?! I think the castings will be decent quality aluminium.

[@carlwilson1772]

By the way forgot to say thanks for the mention!

[@AGEngineering]

Oh goody, a "challenge" 🤔

[@retromechanicalengineer]

That's just what I thought!

[@angry7518]

Lovely informative video Deano. Looking forward to the next one on the D7.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Thanks Angry.

[@LarryBees]

All the best with the engine restore, quite a challenge but I think you are up for it. I think the studs probably the worst of it..😁

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Plenty to do Larry, but we'll get there. I'm planning a few modifications too.

[@montana2strokeracer]

Another option on the barrel is a sleeve, ever consider that? I think I will be trying one for a Yamaha pretty soon. Not any available ported so will have to use a general purpose one with mapping the ports to put in myself. This worked well on the Lawn boy I did; I have to try it on a motorcycle now.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Hey Dale, I have two more oversizes (+40, +60) left in it but I had been thinking about your work with the sleeve. There's a guy over here that manufactures alloy barrels for the trials riders. They either Nikasil the bore or use a sleeve. It could be an option to 'big bore' the engine as I can get a 64mm piston. Best wishes, Dean.

[@cainbeeping8480]

First.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Strike like a Cobra

[@montana2strokeracer]

Nice job on the video Dean, you do have your work cut out for you, what do you think about twin-serts, or keen-serts for repair of the stud holes. I'm sure they could be welded up and re drilled as well. I have had great success with twin-serts. It just depends on how oversize the holes are. What is the parts availability for the Bantams, aftermarket, and NOS? Must be a pretty big following in the U K and Australia. Yes, Dean the priorities are clean and shiny not functional! You're a funny guy bud.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Hey Dale, I think the keen-serts are very good. I will consider them as I don't have the correct Heli-Coils in stock. It will require welding up and re-drilling no matter what I use and I think the solid style inserts are stronger. Parts availability is quite good, with a number of specialists keeping parts on the shelf. You have to watch the quality because some of it is quite poor. They sold well over here so there are usually a lot of used spares on eBay and at Autojumbles. Best wishes, Dean.

[@cainbeeping8480]

That looks like it is on the mold mark

[@retromechanicalengineer]

I think that's where the crack originates from Cain. I may do a PFD test to confirm it.

[@makerepairbin]

Do the casings have any magnesium in the alloy? if so you may have a problem welding.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Not sure, although I have seen Bantam cases welded by other people. Definitely time to do some research! Thanks for watching.

[@makerepairbin]

@@retromechanicalengineer Pour some white vinegar on it if it bubbles it has magnesium in it.

[@cainbeeping8480]

Is thi 2 or 4 stoke.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

It's a 2 stroke.

[@UPTHETOWN]

XCP?

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Is that a penetrating oil?

[@Frightningman]

'looks like oil, feels like oil, smells like cat pee' = gear oil.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Could be! I do genuinely do think a cat pee'd in this engine at some point though........