Budget Hi-Fi Speaker | DIY | Full Range speakers for under $120.00 | Sounderlink/Aiyima

Budget Hi-Fi full range speakers for under $120.00.
Materials: Maple Multi Core Plywood, Full-Range Driver, Connectors, Ports, Foam, Coil, Resistor.
LINKS:
Sounderlink 4" driver:
AliExpress - www.aliexpress...
Sounderlink 4" driver:
Amazon - amzn.to/3E4HcIv
Ports: amzn.to/3vbF3GP
Connectors: amzn.to/37C3bdV
EXTRA PARTS
Inductor Coil:
www.parts-expr...
Resistor:
www.parts-expr...
Polyfill: amzn.to/39r7n0P
Speaker Wire - Copper Clad Aluminum: amzn.to/3LlJbKD
Speaker Wire - Oxygen Free Copper: amzn.to/39tNkPe
MEASUREMENTS
Width x height x depth - 17 x 45 x 34 (cm)
Ports - 4.6 x 8 (cm)
Inside volume - 17.5 liters aprox.
Wood thickness - 18 mm
BASIC TOOLS:
Plam Sander: amzn.to/39wtgvy
Compressor: amzn.to/3wAxB90
Nail Gun: amzn.to/3LrlYqm
Circular Saw: amzn.to/3yNB7Ql
Drill Kit: amzn.to/39osBMR
Drill Bits: amzn.to/3llbApI
Screwdriver Bits: amzn.to/3MmMgLS
Router: amzn.to/3wyyHCb
Router Circle Jig: amzn.to/3MuZLcw
Router Bit Set: amzn.to/3FRFriK
Clamps: amzn.to/3FR9IhO
Quick Clamps: amzn.to/3FSRufH
Soldering Station: amzn.to/3PCFLXk
Ask me anything!!!
INSTAGRAM: @sonnoradesign

[@robertfontaine3650]

Nice videos. It is great to see someone showing how good properly made speakers can be without paying thousands of dollars

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Robert! That’s right.

[@aenonloo]

How much is the workmanship and video editing time cost ?

[@PhillioDoede]

Dope video, hitting that perfect sweet spot of informational and entertaining, lol. You clearly have a nice shop but with fairly basic tools this is easily do able, I think a lot people will make good use of this. That Ali-express driver measures pretty well and that BSC filter looks like it really does the trick, nice work! Also that Mark Audio build is stunning, cant wait to see a video on that!

[@sonnoradesign]

What’s up Phillip? Thanks a lot for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I’ll make the mark audio built soon!

[@helifynoe9930]

Comparing my home made speakers to other speakers over the years, the closest match that I could find, was the Klipsch LA Scala AL5. The only difference, is that mine have more power at the lower frequencies. I find that absolutely hilarious. Up here in Canada, a pair of Klipsch LA Scala AL5 speakers, after paying taxes, would cost you $20,000. Mine were built by me for damn near nothing in comparison, back in 1978. They each have one 15" woofer, 2 dome mid-range drivers, and 4 dome tweeters. Build them yourself, and you will take good care of them. Mine have lasted 46 years now, with only the one instance of me having to replace the outer foam rings of the woofers. And gee-whiz, that cost me a whopping $27 for parts.

[@sonnoradesign]

Haha! Right? If you love it like I do and most of the guys here, just DYI it. Great built!! I know what you talking about! Love it

[@mndlessdrwer]

Oh, I've got a pair of those drivers. They're easy to over-drive if you don't size the enclosure properly, but the sound quality is shockingly good for the price. They do start beaming at around 6.5kHz or so, but it isn't too serious until closer to 8kHz. They're a great driver choice to pair with a high crossover tweeter in a 2.5 or 3-way configuration. They even handle some bass. They're certainly not a conventional woofer, so you want to use a sub or a dedicated midbass/bass woofer to reinforce their low end but they're overall excellent little drivers with a lot of potential even if you use them in place of a mid-woofer and tweeter. They also look nice.

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Robert. Thanks for the input. I guess it all depends on what are you looking for on a driver. They surely have some flaws but I think they are pretty easy to use and as a cheap, starter project they work very well. I always wanted to try those and got really happy with the results for this application. Have you tried/tested the Markaudios? Thanks for watching!!

[@Imhalfamazing2U]

Great speaker build, but I'm stuck on the white speakers you showed off. Those are the most beautiful speakers I have ever seen !

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Glen. I’ll be making those sometime soon. I love them too!

[@cryptomosin]

Awesome video! Very entertaining! Hey in case you close a tab on accident LOL... you can reopen it by typing cmd+shift+t Cheers!

[@sonnoradesign]

Hahah! Great! I knew there was an easier way!

[@volkiruski1221]

I gonna try for the first time made some of these, thanks for the inspiration....

[@sonnoradesign]

Sure. Those are really cool little full ranges!

[@Justwantahover]

I used crossover filters for my FR + woofer speakers and I tried it without the filter and it sounded way more alive and about 3 times more engaging, and the imaging improved a lot. But they aren't as sccurate as with the filter, with a bit of a peak from 5 to 10 khz but much more fun to listen without the filter. But that's really only cos of my radical acoustic features that I applied specially to compensate for the lack of a filter. (I try to equalise the sound with acoustics only). Suggestion: Try an oversized box with an opening nearly twice the diam as the driver (with a 3" deep bass vent tube on the large opening, for acoustic reasons). No other opening in the box! Somehow, mount the FR driver over the large opening about 20mm above the hole (open cone mounting). Such a mounting of the driver requires some engineering and is the most difficult stage in the build (such a basic thing yet challenging to say the least). Listen to them and they might sound better than any speaker you heard! Mine do, and they make mince meat out of my B&W 706 speaker$ (that cost over 2 grand).

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey there! I agree with that. I’ve been using this speaker with no filter and I love it. After breaking in it changed the sound for the better! That’s an interesting design you suggested. Did you work on that on a speaker design software or just playing by ear? Cool!

[@Justwantahover]

All by ear, man. Also I have a FR driver mod for great treble and improved transient response: I involves cutaways on the main cone, so start with cheap drivers. Now cut the main cone like 3mm out from the center. Slit the main cone right through with 8 mm cuts right around the cone (and with 5mm gaps between that are not cut). Then repeat the process about 1cm from the center. The best point source treble in the world! 😅 Such FUN to hear! My single drivers only have the main cone (with dust cap removed) for pure phasing and the lack of a whizzer has lower level high hat sound (that is usually too pronounced). That's why I don't like whizzer cones. Too much high hat and out of phase and a heavier overall cone. And why I don't like Cube Audio. 😅 They have 4 big whizzer cones on one driver (out of phase 4 times and double the weight)! 😅

[@pedroalmeidavieira3179]

I'm building 1 pair of 3-way speaker with these woofers from soundhits by the tests I did it will be with a reasonable quality these speakers are well built.

[@sonnoradesign]

They sound pretty good. Actually they are full-range drivers so you might not need a 3-way. It can be used as mid-tweeter with a larger woofer, or just full-range if you want.

[@besttourinrio9]

Very nice! Besides all the techno parts each are very good you get a sense of humor ! I enjoyed your video from the start to the end. So, I did script myself in your channel. Thank you for the wonderful video!😊

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey there! Thanks for subscribing! Great!

[@WildCJ5]

Loved the video. Awesome production. Let’s see the shop and truck.

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks!! Truck soon! Ha

[@user-ff9rx7kq2g]

I am not stalking you, I am trying to give you all the thumbs up I can.. So I guess that is stalking, but for a good purpose!

[@johnny_fomo]

“They saved our asses, we love Theil and Small” 😂

[@sonnoradesign]

Haha! Thanks Johnny!!!

[@ErickReyes-oc2or]

wow ,great work! the craftsman, design, process, editing and outcome.

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Erick. More to come.

[@diogoavellar7127]

Hahaha It’s so nice to learn this thing’s with you. Nice catch, thanks again

[@davebutler3905]

Very nice work! Thanks for all the effort making this video. What enclosure calculator did you use?

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks for watching Dave. I’ve been using WinISD.

[@jeffneedstogivejakeaturnon1083]

Loved the video. I subscribed and shared the vid to some other speaker builders. Can't wait to see your channel really take off. Keep up the awesome work!

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks a lot! That sounds great! I’ll keep posting for sure. Stay tuned.

[@Justwantahover]

Thanks for actually reading my RANT. 😮

[@sonnoradesign]

Sure!! I read it all! Thanks

[@J2I3H]

My friend, they make 3" versions of these speakers, with cast frame instead of stamped. Would be great to make a soundbar with a woofer/radiator with them😎

[@sonnoradesign]

Right!! The 3 inches sounds good as well, not the same bass and Spl though. Good to use with an extra sub/woofer.

[@J2I3H]

@@sonnoradesign yeah but they reach way past 20khz so no need for an extra tweeter. I hope you get a lot more subs man, you deserve it. Sharing al your build plans is generous👌

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks my friend!!

[@divadgnol67]

Awesome content. Your site is going to blow up!

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks! Hope so!

[@J2I3H]

I bought the more expensive variants of these 4" speakers with cast frame for €22 a piece on black friday😎 but they want a 12 liter cabinet for full range use. Mini towers it is then🤔 build quality is really nice

[@sonnoradesign]

I’ve seen those with neodymium but never worked with them. Is it the same as you got?

[@J2I3H]

@@sonnoradesign uhm, i think its a normal magnet (its big) but they have a really nice cast frame and vented coil. Normally they cost around €40 a piece. I already have a set of Mark audio chr70 speakers, curious how they compare with them. I saw a comparison on yt where the ayima's beat the mark audios, thats why I bought them. I still dont know if I will make a 2.1 set with sub (aiyima in closed small box) or mini towers with around 12L and bass reflex...

[@haksoonhwang8865]

It's a wonderful work. It is a work that I would like to make after. I'm looking forward to the next video.

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks for the feedback!!

[@jorgeborja5809]

Btw, enjoyed watching your tutorial..you make learning very interesting...😊

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Jorge!!

[@NeilBlanchard]

In watching this again, I realized that the Sd (cone area) should be the diameter of the center of the suspension MINUS the area of the phase plug. I.E. the actual area that radiates sound. Although, I am not sure how the whizzer cone is accounted for?

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Neil. Yes man, most probably as the phase plug don’t move?! I would just calculate the cone area minus the plug?!

[@NeilBlanchard]

@@sonnoradesign Right, that was what I was thinking.

[@OSOsBBQ]

Awesome video, love how you get technical!

[@laurenciofranco3645]

Can you please share the info for that filter… model.. etc. in advance thank you 🙏, I’m your fan brother!!

[@sonnoradesign]

Hello Laurencio! There are links to the coil and resistor on the description! Check it out.

[@seejayfrujay]

Sweet! Liked the music. I need some desktop speakers.

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks for your input! Those are a little too big for desktop but I might make smaller ones soon!

[@ashleysolomon246]

Love it! Can’t wait for the next one!

[@codyhuber]

Nice project! Really like your shop. Keep the good vibes coming:)

[@sonnoradesign]

Sure! Thanks for watching!!

[@dr.lector1091]

Great, i like your channel 👍. You are a cool and smart guy. Many greetings from germany.

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey there! Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@fernandes909]

congratulations thank you. Can I move the port forward? the back will be 17 cm from the wall. grateful

[@sonnoradesign]

I really like this design with the ports on the back. I have them in my bedroom, 10 inches from the wall and plays great bass. Ports on the front might change the response a bit.

[@wetguavass]

Can you make Hi=Fi speakers using used materials? ... get several speakers from goodwill, take them apart and make some new speakers from those parts? .

[@sonnoradesign]

Yup. It’s possible. Maybe not that easy cause you need to select good drivers for a better result. Idk if people donate good speakers to goodwill.

[@MohammadAsif-mq1ek]

Made good speakers boxes I m again from Pakistan Karachi

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks my friend!!

[@mam-audio]

Love Théo ! Good job, once more ! 😉

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks a lot Marc!! 😎

[@chevyimp5857]

Scratch that found it ... Great channel engaging channel .. thanks again

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks mate!!!

[@tybotti]

If those are new speakers, they will sound way better after they break in. Don’t even bother measuring it for at least a couple of weeks of playing it

[@sonnoradesign]

That’s right Jon. They are sounding much better now!! Thanks

[@fernandes909]

Thanks!

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Fernandes!!

[@georgemarciocardoso]

Amazing job, my friend!!!

[@leonardoacuebos174]

But the carpentry is so good I price it at $500++! Hahaha!

[@sonnoradesign]

SOOOOLLLD!!! Haha. Thanks my friend!

[@MrAlexandreazevedo]

Very nice and cheap speaker project suggestion for nearfield listening! 😊 If we use egg crate damping foam board for acoustic treatment as speaker damping material will it have a similar effect?

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Alexandre. I had used eggcrate damping before. Works!

[@stefanmauhart6318]

dope workshop dude! now build some 21" bassscops xD just kidding maybe they will also sound amazing with a t-line front port i guess the 120$ are only for canada/usa maple is fkin expensive here in austria especially plywood sheets i guess a m² maple sheet here costs about 100-150€ birch is about 60-80€ and you used about 2m² and what amp are you using? btw techingredients makes some mad speaker projects too you might find some more inspiration there xD bless ya

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Stefan!! Haha that’s right! Subwoofers sometime soon. They probably sound good on any-line. I had this maple ply here but they are going up on price. Last 3 sheets I bought for $130 cause they wanted to stop selling so I bought them. Baltic birch is still affordable but all other hardwood ply is going up high. I’m using a amp that I made here. It’s pretty much an ICE power with a mini tube pre amp. Sounds good. I wanna make a video for a power amp. Gonna check those guys for sure. Thanks a lot for your input I really appreciate it.

[@carlose.martinez545]

I don't live in the USA, but in Brazil, so I don't have access to Dayton drivers as you do. So I have to rely on Chinese Aiyima drivers. Just bought exactly those two 4" to substitute an existing box drivers, which lack some highs. From the curve you showed, it seems it's worth trying correcting the 6KHz to 15KHZ +10dB hump with a notch filter. Of course that would mean two series, filters (baffle step and notch), but it would add very little to the price. Some suggest adding a small tweeter to the upper range might be a good idea, but the notch filter would keep having one speaker coherence and all that. I know the front baffle is narrow, but moving it off center might help with diffraction effects. Perhaps doing the front a bit wider and less tall?

[@sonnoradesign]

Fala Carlos!! Tudo bem? Valeu por assistir!! Então, tem muita coisa boa no Ali Express e eles mandam para o Brasil que eu saiba. Esses drivers são bem legais, eu achei que fossem tocar mal mas me surpreendi. Claro que tem como corrigir esses desvios na curva de frequência, mas eu deixei eles tocando sem filtro no meu quarto, uso para TV também e soa bem, o grave melhorou muito depois de amaciar. Obrigado pelas dicas. Você acha que o front baffle mais largo ajudaria? Você tem projetos por aí?

[@carlose.martinez545]

@@sonnoradesign Tudo bem? Muito obrigado pela sua resposta. A minha experiência é mas auditiva que construtiva. Trabalhei com áudio para cinema e TV durante 50 anos, e me ouvido (por sorte) continua bem afinado e sensível. Mas tive a sorte de conhecer um espanhol que morava em Buenos Aires, e ele tinha uma pequena fábrica de caixas de som comparáveis ao melhor que se fazia e ainda se faz no mundo. Como eu já tinha me familiarizado com o som ao vivo e o som de estúdios de cinema, tinha boas referencias com que comparar. Ele desenhava e fazia seus próprios alto-falantes, armados com componentes que mandava fazer com diversos fornecedores que seguiam seu desenho. Depois montava tudo, conseguindo drivers que práticamente não precisavam crossover. Eram filtros de no máximo 2da ordem, e absolutamente lineais. Eu posso te contar mais por mail. Me diga para onde escrevo. O triste é que me amigo faleceu em Março passado, e é muito provável que tudo aquele tesouro de informação se perca para sempre.

[@sonnoradesign]

@@carlose.martinez545Oi Carlos. Que pena. Bom que você tem esse background em áudio. Acho que a principal ferramenta é a nossa audição!!

[@carlose.martinez545]

Experimentou adicionar um tweeter, não interessa muito o tipo, na parte de trás da caixa? Tem que ter um capacitor de proteção, ser ligado em paralelo como se estivesse na frente, e ter um atenuador para ajuste fino do volume dele. Eu vou fazer este full range com o Aiyima e experimentar com o tweeter atrás. Estava lendo um teste de um bafle Snell pela Stereophile, e ficaram muito impressionados. Melhora muito a imagem.

[@sonnoradesign]

Oi Carlos. Eu fiz um outro projeto que chame LoVees onde eu adicionei o tweeter na traseira. Muito bom resultado. Inverti a fase e tá tocando muito bem. Melhora a imagem de palco bastante.

[@boborman5537]

Just love your work

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Bob!

[@davidybarrola5417]

How do these compare to a coaxial driver like those from Seas?

[@sonnoradesign]

I have not heard the seas coaxial yet but I really like seas drivers. I’m about to use a pair of seas tweeters on a new design!

[@droneriobr]

Awesome! Love it 👏👏👏

[@rogerjames6956]

Every home has $10.000 worth of woodworking kit in there home,LOL.

[@sonnoradesign]

A few pieces won’t be missed!!!

[@RyanBassForLife]

Cool 😎

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Ryan!!!

[@zeldatearsofthekingdom3577]

Awesome video as always. Heyyy… I had a question. I want to build a 7.2 surround myself using 6.5” full range drivers that are 4 ohm and a tweeter that is 4 ohm that already comes with a bass blocker… my question is… could I simply wire the two speakers to get an 8 ohm load and be done since the 6.5” driver is a full range 40 hz to 20k hz speaker and the tweeter has a bass blocker already??? I’m looking to get an 8 ohm impedance and I’m wanting to make 4 of these speakers identical from the front and rear speakers. Thanks in advance for your answer if you get this o this question and find the time to respond. Also… looking forward to a subwoofer build 💪

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Zelda. Thanks for watching!! I’d first input the values on Xsim to make the crossovers. I don’t think you’d get 8 ohms at the end. Check the system’s impedance first.

[@zeldatearsofthekingdom3577]

@@sonnoradesign yeah… car audio doesn’t give you like any of the info to enter… but I did check impedance and it’s 4 ohms roughly even after adding the tweeter. Which I don’t understand. But I’m new to all of this 😂. Looking forward to a new video. I want to make some custom boxes using your inlay technique but goooood Lordt those round over bits are pricy. Buttttt… your finished product is top notch and I will probably bite the bullet and get the bits. I’m thinking Maple sides and rear with walnut fronts. I know you like the maple/walnut. Thanks again for the response 👍

[@sonnoradesign]

@@zeldatearsofthekingdom3577 hey Zelda. Thanks and sorry for the delay. Impedance is crucial so it’s always good to check on the software. You can use coaxial drivers if you want the car audio ones. Bits are expensive yes. If you are not using them a lot just getter cheaper sets on Amazon. They work well but not for too long.

[@cenchloraadums3143]

The exact same speaker that costs around 40 or so Yuan in China, they buy for $42. 😄

[@sonnoradesign]

Right!

[@gabrielrizo2485]

Great Job bro ,, Caramba

[@sonnoradesign]

Haha! That’s right! Thanks.

[@eltallerderuso]

Gracias amigo!

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks for watching!

[@kennethcohagen3539]

Nice, but the spl is low. Can you do something similar with a larger driver to get more spl?

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey there. Spl is a little higher then what it shows on the curve response but sure! They offer the same driver in 6 inches that should be much more powerful. That’s a good idea for next video. Thanks.

[@NeilBlanchard]

The downside to a larger full range driver is more directional highs - and not as extended highs, either.

[@NeilBlanchard]

​ @Sonnora Design I took the liberty of designing a mass loaded transmission line cabinet for this driver - I used the exact same size as you did. I'd be curious to know what frequency your port is tuned to? I'd be happy to send you the drawing and the Hornresp file. The response is pretty good I think - the fundamental frequency is ~49Hz, and there is a ~2dB rise at ~100Hz. This is before any room lift which is quite likely with placement nearer to the wall. So, it may have an acoustic baffle step compensation designed in? Without the 0.79 DCR that the 18AWG 2mH coil has, it should play a bit louder. The lack of a resistor and its inductance, might open the highs a bit, or maybe they need to toned down? If you were interested in building this - it is 3 additional pieces of plywood as internal baffles, but no port. It needs 0.12kg / 4.25 ounces of polyfil with a bit of mesh or string to hold it up at the top of the cabinet.

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Neil. That sounds pretty good. I’m sure interested in Transmission Lines. Would be good to mess around with those at some point. You can email me for sure.

[@NeilBlanchard]

@@sonnoradesign I will do that. I think it looks like it won't need the baffle step compensation. I added 3 internal baffles to form the TL, and they will brace the sides nicely, as well.

[@991carreras3]

Problem with this dyi stuff is its sound quality. Yea $120 is cheap but if they dont sound good they endup in the garbage. You can buy those cheap sony ss-cs5 speakers the youtubers rave about. And if you dont like them there returnable not garbage.

[@sonnoradesign]

That’s right. You getta enjoy making them or go to the Sonys, Elacs, Dayton…

[@amparomonteiro9008]

Very good!!!!!! 👏👏👏👏👏

[@xXnicemanXx]

hi where i can find those blue connectors that you used for the speakers wires ? i cant find the same size

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey there. It’s the 3/16” one. There are 3 sizes so you have to make sure which one you need. I usually buy a kit with all of them. You can look at Parts Express or Amazon.

[@fsmaia]

The more expensive are the tools! hahaha

[@sonnoradesign]

That’s for sure!! Haha thanks for watching.

[@NeilBlanchard]

This speaker looks to be very good, and your approach to building is can do and direct - subscribed and shared! I have been designing transmission line speakers, and this driver looks to be an excellent candidate, with the 0.45 Qts in particular. I would like to take your cabinet as the starting point, and use Hornresp (the modeling software I use) to see if the bass can be extended down a bit lower. TL can sometimes do this, by gradually adding the mass of the air column in the TL to the driver. There is a speaker called the Sibelius by Pearl Acoustics, that uses a ~4" Markaudio driver in a slim tower in a TL cabinet, that can hit the low 30's. I would be happy to share anything that I come up with with this driver. Something that *might* be possible is to design in a bass lift with the TL and/or room lift, and *maybe* the baffle compensation coil / resistor could be achieved acoustically instead? If this is possible, then the bass output that is being slightly reduced by the ESR of the coil would be eliminated.

[@NeilBlanchard]

​ @Sonnora Design What did you estimate the Sd to be of this driver? Using their line drawing, and scaling it in CAD as closely as I can, I measure the center of the outer suspension to be 82mm in diameter, so that gives an Sd of 52.8 cm2. In Hornresp[onse] which is the modeling software I am using, for whatever reason the Qts is coming out to 0.55 rather than the 0.46 that the driver is specified for. I try to enter the Qms as 5.96, but it getting changed to 6.13. I don't know enough about how Thiele-Small data are related. It would be great to have the Mmd rather than the Mms, and the Xmax. Some manufacturers provide a data file specifically for Hornresp, which makes it easy.

[@sonnoradesign]

Man, I’ve seen some reviews of the Sibelius, it looks pretty good. Impressive how a TL can add so much.

[@sonnoradesign]

I did 63 as the Sd. I know it’s missing some parameters. Makes it hard. We can use another driver with more info online?

[@NeilBlanchard]

@@sonnoradesign Certainly we can, but if this driver sounds good, it has a reasonably low Fs, and a high Qts, which is good for a TL. What is your port tuned to? I think if the same size cabinet as a TL would be a great comparison, and a great value. Any suggestions for a good full range? Markaudio? Or a lower cost one?

[@NeilBlanchard]

@@sonnoradesign Okay - I used 52.8 which I got by scaling their drawing to the middle of the suspension roll; figuring that is the area that radiates sound. It could be argued to go to the outside of the suspension, and then I get ~64,3. So I can use 63 as you did, though it doesn't have an immediately obvious affect, to the response in Hornresp. Wait - it increases the SPL level of the entire curve, by almost 2dB? That makes sense - but it doesn't appear to change the shape of the curve.

[@rhalfik]

I know how to make speakers, but I watch these videos with fullrange drivers just to remind myself how much I'd be missing if I never took the couple days it takes to learn to make a crossover. Fullrange driver speakers have very low value until you get to 6-8" drivers, where theoretically you can make a decent speaker with them, but ultimately you want to add a tweeter. The crucial difference is that now that you have a large enclosure for that eight-incher, there is space to add that tweeter unlike with silly little builds like this one, where the tweeter isn't as necessary as a woofer, but there is no space for a woofer. But let's be honest. This is not hifi. Hifi is not a meaningless word like "cool" or "alpha" that people throw around. Hifi means reaching certain distortion levels. It doesn't matter if you use expensive or cheap, one or three drivers. The quality is achieved by filtering. If you're not adding filters to your speaker, your not even trying to make it Hifi. This speaker needs a notch in the highs and a high shelf to compensate diffraction. Here's the thing though... Since you already started filtering your single driver, wouldn't it make more sense to use the same number of passives, but this time you use them to just cross over to a woofer? You see where I'm going with it? If you start with a midbass driver instead, then all you need to do is to add a cheap tweeter and you'll have better result. All you need to do is to read a tutorial and make the first step.

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Martin. Thanks for the input. A lot of people use notch filters or crossovers to make the frequency response the way they want. I really like to have the drivers playing with less “interference” possible so if I can avoid those components I will. It just sounds good to me. For sure they do help keep the curve flat, attenuate the highs, or manipulate the frequency response curve and you can use it if you want. It’s just the way I do it. Im not against using crossovers. I have them on my builds. The thing is, im not sure what’s right or wrong but I know what I wanna hear and I always try to get closer to that result. Those drivers are playing with no notch filters and those boxes are in my bedroom. I love the sound of it. You can make a proper box and get good results without the filters. At least it worked for me.

[@mndlessdrwer]

This is quite true. This particular full-range driver is more of a wide-band driver since it has some breakup in the upper treble and the bass extension can't dig low enough without driver flex and clipping, simply due to the small displacement of the driver. I do think it has a tremendous amount of potential as a wide-band midrange driver to bridge between a woofer that's more akin to a subwoofer and a tweeter with a high crossover point, like a ribbon tweeter. I've got a pair and their midrange and lower treble reproduction is particularly good for the money. Definitely would benefit from some additional drivers and a well-designed crossover, but it's good enough for people who want to dip their toes into speaker building. As long as they don't over-drive the poor things then they can always salvage the drivers for other more comprehensive builds in the future if they want.

[@sonnoradesign]

@@mndlessdrwer That’s right! A lot can be done. I think it’s a really good cost/ benefit. I liked the results in this box but there is always other uses for sure.

[@mndlessdrwer]

@@sonnoradesign If you want some other ideas for inexpensive project speakers, a good 2-way design can be cobbled together using a pair of VIFA XT25 series ring radiator tweeters (some are being manufactured by Peerless Audio now) and some Silver Flute brand woofers (preferably the 8" variant for better sensitivity matching and bass extension). The tweeters are cheapest from AliExpress and the woofers can most easily be found from Madisound. They're a good match, tonally, and the tweeters can be crossed over relatively low without dying or exhibiting noticeable distortion. I put a set of those in the 6.5" variant with some modified XT25 from MeloDavid on AliExpress into my friend's car and they sound pretty good after attenuating the tweeters a bit. The sensitivity of the 6.5" drivers are just a bit low to be completely compatible with the tweeters unless you do so. I think the 8" woofers are about $45 each and you can pick up a pair of the tweeters for around $38. So your driver costs are only around $150 or so? The woofer won't need much work in the crossover either so the crossover cost will probably be around $100-150 depending on how much you want to tune it. Here's some links to save you trouble: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804869741209.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.14.58a04e9ewGwETM&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=522f583c-cec4-40f1-96ee-fea394097d43&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:522f583c-cec4-40f1-96ee-fea394097d43,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000031473834915%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2144.3%2138.98%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1b616791225345456103e78c4%2112000031473834915%21rec%21US%211785956472 www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/silver-flute-w20rc38-04-8-woofer-wool-cone-4-ohm/

[@shangrilaladeda]

very nice

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks!!!

[@AbiDhafinChannel]

Great job, my friend...

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks a lot!!

[@impuls60]

You forgot the very expensive inductor in your baffle step, its probably another 50usd for 2 decent ones. I recently bought 2 inductors with 1.2mm wire thickness in 0.7mH and it came to 75usd with shipping and tax. You get a really fullrange cheap driver but you have to pay almost the same for XO components to fix the response. Its not cheap anymore then is it?

[@sonnoradesign]

The extra parts for the BSC are listed in the description. Around $30. The price will go up with extras yeas! Thanks

[@realworldaudio]

Also, it will depend on your room... if it's very "dark" sounding, then you will not need the step correction to get a balanced response. He was right to include them as an option, and not part of the main price ; ).

[@sonnoradesign]

@@realworldaudio I have those drivers in my bedroom now with no BSC and it sounds great!

[@marioromero4350]

Very good

[@abdallahalhamadi8352]

Frugal horn project for these drivers ?

[@sonnoradesign]

That would be cool! I wanna make a back loaded horn at some point for sure!

[@JordanElliottMcClure]

Subscribed! ❤

[@sonnoradesign]

Thanks Jordan. Welcome my friend!!!

[@orenerooren4208]

Can you please explain how to connect the resistor and the coil?

[@sonnoradesign]

They are connected in parallel. That means you splice the positive wire from the amp to the speaker and connect one side of the coil and resistor to the amp and the other one to the speaker end.

[@orenerooren4208]

@@sonnoradesign thanks. I ordered the 8ohm version of this driver, the resistor should be different ?

[@sonnoradesign]

Yes they should be different. Coil and resistor. You need to use the online calculator to get the right value for the 8 ohms one. Actually, they sound pretty good after break up so give it a try with no filter first. I’m using it without it now.

[@nookroot890]

How are they powered? Speakers don't play on their own.

[@sonnoradesign]

They are passive speakers, need an amplifier. Thanks for watching.

[@jorgeborja5809]

I would want to do my 1st diy in a pair of Aiyima 4" fullrange drivers. I would want to ask for your kind assistance in providing me some info on a transmission box for this driver.

[@sonnoradesign]

Hey Jorge. That is a great idea. I’d really encourage you to start with this one. Easy to work with and good results. Neil Blanchard has a great MLTL design for this driver.

[@jorgeborja5809]

Thanks a lot! I just can't stop watching your videos over and over again...once more...."maraming salamat po"....from the Philippines...

[@jorgeborja5809]

Seems like I'm going your way for my 1st DIY....just one last question before i write and plan everything and get myself organized. For the ports...can these be placed in the front of the baffles instead of the rear?

[@sonnoradesign]

They can go on the front yes. I’ve never done it though. Are you gonna place the speakers close to the back wall? Otherwise leave them on the back cause they sound good this way.

[@jorgeborja5809]

@@sonnoradesign thanks...they'll be placed a few inches from the wall...but if it sound better with ports at the rear...will do it in this way..once more...really greatful!

[@marioromero4350]

Saludos desde Nicaragüa

[@anltiryakiler7050]

ctrl(or command)+shift+T. for accidentally closed tabs

[@sonnoradesign]

Haha! Thanks.

[@MrFelipebox]

What amplifier do you use for bench tests?

[@sonnoradesign]

ICE Power usually. 125asx

[@MrFelipebox]

@@sonnoradesign Thank you very much, I really like your videos.

[@jonfoss3437]

You dont need the equipment he uses

[@prettyhard0150]

Hello can you please upload the box plan.

[@sonnoradesign]

Sure. I’ll do that soon!! Thanks.

[@ezhil9753]

No , crossover board

[@ipinhalves1540]

Are you from Brazil? The accent seens the same from people from Brazil.

[@sonnoradesign]

Hahah! Right!

[@wongkk1699]

👍👍

[@williamjovencio8873]

👏👏👏

[@clayc124]

These drivers are no longer available.

[@sonnoradesign]

Ouch. I know they might be on Ali Express? Let me see

[@darkalligator]

🤤

[@carlsitler9071]

That isn't a good hifi speaker. A good hifi speaker is 150 watts with 15" woofer.

[@sonnoradesign]

Right!! Haha

[@pealfaroooo6131]

budget for me is $45

[@sonnoradesign]

Haha. Right! Let’s try to lower it.

[@pealfaroooo6131]

@@sonnoradesign Mexican pesos

[@chocolatecc]

(?) No sound LOL

[@sonnoradesign]

Ops. No sound demo?

[@karczagistvan8943]

👏👏👏👍🇭🇺😜

[@Belcanto401]

Drivers from aliExpress. Lol

[@sonnoradesign]

Right?! Thanks

[@jamesa375]

120$ using a workshop worth thousands of dollars that noone has.

[@sonnoradesign]

That comes with time. I believe basic tools would make one like that. A well equipped shop makes it easier though. Thanks for watching.

[@sabyasaci]

What kind of screen ratio that you r using.... Disgusting to watch....