Building a 1:211 ratio LT230Q for a Defender Td5 from a Discovery 1 or 2 Part 1

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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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[@simonrowlands7472]

Hi Mike great video the different gear cut on td5 caused some to wine I heard one 110 that at about 30 mph it sounded like someone cutting wood on a circular saw ,but with the cast weight bolted on reduced it but we still put a lead blanket over it to make sure, great mod 👍

[@Reaper4367]

lmao Haircut 100--- Love plus one!

[@MrRobmellor]

Great video Mike, with no room left for any misunderstanding. a lot better that reading from a manual. I have the old RR transfer box fitted to my 110 and as you know the intermediate shaft + bearing have to be shimmed on those. I feel that is a lot better than the crush tube, which was just a price cutting job. Many thanks for your help Mike, best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The old 13D box had needle bearings on a larger shaft - wonder why they did away with that idea?

[@stevengeets5729]

Hi Mike, You don't need the intermediate gear into the casing to determine the solid spacer length. This can be done on the bench, shaft end in the vise, bearings and solid spacer in the intermediate gear, than find yourself another spacer to fill up the space till you can torque up the nut. Now you can take it out of the vise and measure the preload on the shaft

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good tip!

[@ArloDahMan]

@@BritannicaRestorations This is the easy way to handle the solid spacers! The necessary torque should be 0,5 up to 1Nm. I messure it with a snap on torque wrench showing zero to 3,5Nm with the big end of the pin hanging down in a stand. while the nut is force by 88Nm to the axleholder and a distance, which replaces the original wall of the main casing. Reducing the solid spacer by 0,05mm (0.020") will raise the torque up to 1Nm if there had been no endplay befor. Be careful.

[@husq2100]

Good stuff as usual Mike. I like Loctite 518 for the gaskets and is reasonably easy on clean up (better than RTV etc)

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Right on

[@colinburns2136]

Hi Mike do believe the level was fitted till 2001 and reappeared in 2004

[@harveysmith100]

With regards to centre diff locks and people who don't use them. A centre diff lock should always be engaged when leaving the tarmac roads. Even on loose graded roads, a diff lock should really be engaged. The reason is, if you have one wheel slipping, with an open centre diff, all the power of the engine is going to that one slipping wheel. If suddenly that wheel gains traction, you can end up breaking a half shaft or worse. If the diff lock is engaged, the slipping wheel is only going to receive 50% of the engines power.

[@husq2100]

The front and rear diffs are open so that’s not this issue. It’s having the output shafts spinning at NOTICEABLY different speeds leading to the sun and planet gears welding themselves together in the centre diff.

[@harveysmith100]

@@husq2100 Perhaps I haven't explained this properly. If you are on a loose surface with an open centre diff and one wheel starts to spin, 100% of the torque from the engine is going through one half shaft, if that tyre suddenly gains traction the torque is too much for one half shaft to cope with and it can snap. By locking the centre diff, only 50% of the engines torque can reach any half shaft. I hope I have made this clearer.

[@carltonr3417]

I really like the idea of the solid spacer. My transfer box had the same problem with the collapsible spacer not being crushed evenly. Maybe why the bearing closet to the uneven portion failed and the bearing on the other side was fine (but could be because of any number of reasons though). Both Timken bearings.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Having built a few of these now, I will only use the collapsible spacer as a guide to measure the solid spacer

[@carltonr3417]

@@BritannicaRestorations that’s a good idea. I might do the same now it’s rebuilt and a new collapsible spacer was used to measure off.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

They are not giving away the solid spacers! Between £10 and £17 each - and there are 20 sizes!

[@carltonr3417]

@@BritannicaRestorations ouch! Measure twice, order once! Maybe it’s something you could put in your shop since JP is making them for your rebuilds?

[@jameskerr5756]

Haircut 100! That's going back a bit. Another great video for when the time comes to delve into the transfer box. At the minute as you know, I'm fartin about with stub axles and brake shoes!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Have you not got them done yet!

[@jameskerr5756]

@@BritannicaRestorations No, just as well I'm not getting paid by the hour eh!

[@tonystanford-beale7666]

Worryingly, I remember Haircut 100!

[@williambaird8807]

Mike Elring Dirko Sealant if fantastic for transfer boxes don't know if you can get it in canada. Its vw stuff

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not sure, but the Dirko is listed as the same as the Loctite part number

[@stephenlyttleton9032]

Mike, How much does it cost to have a machinist to machine thecae and make the spacer? Need to find a JP around here. Thanks!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Should be less than an hour to do the job - more you do, the more familiar, then takes less time

[@chriswright9819]

who's J P ?