I like that it has a vertical tank. Floor space is valuable for the average DIY'er.

Okay, thank you. Your video was fantastic and will be used regular on me fixing that upright, I've got that my uncle gave me.

Can You help me with my Lancia Ypsilon airbag unit, erasing the crash data?

You are the BEST !!

You are the best !

Fix206, maybe this question had been answered in the over 4000 comments, but can you be more specific on how you hooked up the water-cooling system? I have a Campbell 20-gallon oil-type compressor that is now 44 years old. Works great still b/c I change the lubrication fluid regularly, but I am perplexed on how to cool this unit. I have two 11-gallon auxiliary tanks in-line to make capacity of 42 gallons capacity in total and the unit overheats

That tankt rotisserie, oh buddy, so good. You could have put some gravel stones in it an spin it for a while and then recoat its inside, would have been a good fix for the rusty inside. But still, everything here, very good.

Moves the tank all the way into the backyard, right next to the neighbours house!! Awesome!!

In 5 years,I went through 4 compressors, and then I made my own just like you. I use it every day , it's been 4 years, no problem

Compressors being loud and the potential of an older rusty tank rupturing is always a concern. I keep putting it off but I want to build a small room off the back or side of my garage as a dedicated Compressor Room. I’m not the best at draining the tank daily and a lot of times my kids will fire it up to run tools or inflate tires and just shut it off and leave it. Knowing they rust from the inside out and you have a potential disaster waiting. At least in its own room it be less dangerous.

When I restored my Cutlass, I only had a 25 gal direct drive Craftsman compressor. It didn’t have enough SCFM to keep up with an HVLP gun so I borrowed my brothers that was the same model and ran them in tandem. It was in the summer so I was condensing so much water that an inline trap and small one at the gun wasn’t enough so I coiled 100’ of that cheap rigid airline in a 5 gal bucket and filled it with ice and water. Put a big water trap at the end and a smaller desiccant style at the gun and no issues! Full respray from bare metal too: epoxy primer, high build, base and clear. I’ve since replaced with a big 2 stage compressor but it is doable with “what you got”if you get a little innovative.

Great Video! But...I have questions: what about the weather impact on the motor/compressor? Did you do a simple "roof" over the motor and electrical bits? Can you cover another vid on the electrical part of this video, specifically: the GFCI found in most garages, did you bypass this and give this compressor it's own circuit or use the GFCI (as painting when it gives out has got to be horrible)? What are your air lines in your garage made of? Copper or plastic? And please discuss your drop-downs (if installed) for painting and work for those that have hobby garages and any secondary water/oil separator/filters for garage or paint work. Thanks for the great video.

Great video, I’ve researched doing something similar but got lost when matching up pulleys, belts and fittings.

Maybe it's a stupid question, but can they coat the inside of an air tank so it never rusts?

Thanks for sharing. That was an awesome build.

The big secret is that only a couple companies make the compressors and tanks, we got a Craftsman tank with a decent warranty on it, only to find the Chinese made motor only had a limited warranty for whenever it unsurprisingly failed early.

If you got a rusty tank you cold do a step after degreasing with phosphorus acid and water. That way you chemically blast the inside to remove all the rust even from the pitting. We did this prior to inspection on 3000-45000 psi scuba steel tanks. And I can tell you even the most awful looking tanks passed hydrotesting. We had a minimum messure we used on pitting but since the location almost always was located in the thicker bottom we didn't scrap many bottles. A welded steel plate tank don't have this advantage though.

Lot's of people have asked about where I got the body dimension measurements... And to answer that: I did get the first set of measurements online and the other set came from the computer program I got... I did go over it in detail in the previous video, here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZ7apKR9h9mbiac And also in the following video, here is the link to it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nmKun3yDq5VrhJI Hope it helps !

My first time watching and I subscribed to your channel. I love this line of work, but I'm too old to learn how to do it. Recently I had my car pulled in a shop for a small nose hit and the results were very poor. Even when I have a complete cut off front they pull the original, and use some parts from the cut off front. But the lines between the fenders and the hood are not right. So I dismantled the whole nose in my garage and found a lot of bondo where the hood latch is. So now I'm trying to help myself and fix what I can. Masterful job on your Mazda, thank you for the video.

Awesome job

That’s awesome loved the video where do you get the dimensions from that’s good to get

I was curious about the piping that you soldered. How have the solder joints held up to vibration?

This is close to the Perfect DIY video! Brilliant design, fantastic safety testing, and *all* the necessary info to properly duplicate your setup! Well Done, and Thank you!

Name brand means nothing. They trusted names of old have been sold off to Chinese manufactures that make questionable quality equipment that sold for name brand premium prices.

I was going to build an air compressor using that pump but never having owned a real air compressor (just a few pancake ones) and the job felt a little over my head so I decided to buy. Plus, if you’re familiar with Menards they give rebates when you shop there. I had spent a couple thousand dollars last summer building a deck so I had enough rebates to buy the compressor without coming more out of pocket. I ended up with a MasterForce which is made by Sanborn/Campbell Hausfeld. It’s a single stage that puts out 13.4 cfm @ 40psi and 11.5 cfm @ 90 psi. I think for the little tinkering I do this will serve me well for years. I do like your pre cooler set up. But I don’t have extra space to have a bucket of water next to my compressor. I am going to use air cooling but also like you did put an inline filter before the air enters the tank. Also, harbor freight does still sell those big blue filters you mentioned they are item number 58547 Merlin brand $99. That’s the filter I’ll be using eventually.

Pressure tested at 240 you can even raise the shut off pressure to 160.

A ton of reviews? How do you figure 2000 lb of reviews?

Just got my back end fixed on my granddads 99 ford ranger that was rear ended by a semi truck. Its amazing what can be done with a blow torch, a dead blow hammer, chains and a hydrallic jack. New Tailgate finally shuts right and hasnt had a rear bumper for over 20 years until now. Spare tire carrier was crumpled in and all jacked up until my dad showed me how restore it.

Thanks for sharing. I'm thinking about doing the same thing. I wonder if you might share answers to questions I still have ?? a) Does it matter whether you run this pump on 120v or 240v ?? b) Is the size of the tank an issue ?? Could I put it on a smaller tank (say 30gal) ?? c) Is the auto drain valve in the link you provided for the end of the cooling tube ?? d) How does the valve open at the end of the cooling tube w/out pressure ?? e) If the water in the bottom of the coil is expelled, does that mean that the condensation in the tank is transferred to the coil ?? HOW ?? ..... Or ..... Will there eventually still be condensation in the tank that needs to be bled ?? f) What is the vacuum hose to the coil do & where is it connected ?? Love the video , thanks for your generous consideration, Sincerely ................... God bless.

I recommend pouring a quart of rust-neutralized paint in it and run that brilliant rotisserie method again.. then a seal coat of urethane and you should have a long term anti-rust solution.

It looked to me like you were spinning the pump backwards. I'm I crazy? The pulley on the pump should spin so the fan blows across the pump. Hope I'm wrong.

I'm glad the "algorithm" suggested this video. There are so many great examples of your clever thought process, and taking it to the next level. This is a really good educational video. It shows how to do the research, and invest in yourself (DIY) sucessfully. Now I've got to do a deep dive on the rest of your content!

Where do I start…… no safety cage on belts/pulleys, a copper line designed for house water pressure being used for a 130 lb air line, and did you even do an amp check to see how many amps that motor is using with that pump?

U should combine all 3 tanks for air storage and run the cooler before the separater at least that's my opinion I have been wanting to build my own for a while have don so on a smaller scale on stuff I got for free definitely made a difference good video

What cools the water? Wouldn't that get very hot and stop working before long, or are you not using it enough to matter?

I wish you lived near me , I have an accord I need straightened

The only thing I would have done differently is build the other two tanks as well. Sell them and your compressor is free.

you must use your compressor a lot to go to the length of even cooling it couple of suggestions take the compressor off the tank as the vibration will crack the mount second get more tank to store more air so your cycle time is really low even if you are sandblasting where a lot of air is required an old upright propane tank works well or even bigger if you find it (a tank does not explode in pieces it just cracks and does not hold air)

Tip for you, if you can find out the grey shade color, (varies from white to very dark grey) you can have that mixed up in base coat. That color could’ve used a lighter grey for faster coverage.

You are a grate man , I Like your work

Engineer responds: filling the tank with water to pressure test is called hydrostatic test. Water does not compress so the could rupture but it would NOT send shrapnel flying. It's a very safe easy way to check. Often the hydro-test is fine at several times the operating pressure. Like over 1,000 psi. This is to make sure there is a safety margin. The label on the tank that said extreme duty, or whatever it was, is meaningless. Like saying super awesome. A better cooling option would be to pass the hot air coming from the compressor through a heat exchanger with the cooler air coming out of the tank.

Honestly I wil totally RIP OFF your idea - start with some tanks off MP themn that HF compressor is da bomb!!! No not a bomb!!! But ALSO I would add the other tank with it's own cooler and a system that tells whe tank 1 is at pressure then flip an auto vale to tank 2, maybe at a slightly lower pressure and DOUBLE my capaity! I don't think it would burn out the compressor (runs twice as long but duty cycle is was reduced. What do you think? Oh PS If I do this I will make a video and you WILL GET CRED for the original idea!

hey bro do you know which pins i need to get power to and ground on to jump it so i can see the miles on an old dash?? thanks

Man, I would love to get my old Jeep frame pulled by you and see how you made that amazing machine up close

The rotisserie was awesome!

It would be much safer to fill the tank with water for the pressure test. If the tank ruptures, very little energy will be released. You can safely pressurize with air.

Where can we find these measurements?

Great video and problem solving tricks, but I just wonder why you did not connect the second air tank, would have made a HUGE air reservoir, less motor startups, more continuous steady air pressure longer?

You definitely did everything right to build the best reliable, durable and the most up to date unit because you used known laws of mathematics, physics and chemistry. There is an even better tank design to increase the longevity of your tank and that would be to use stainless steel. 304 or 316 . But I must congratulate you for your hands on experience and careful thought process.

Good job. My iron hose 80 gallon was condesning so much was i built a copper condenser. Later for 60$ i got a 30cfm refrigerated air dryer. Zero water now when my system only puts out 15cfm