Building a better building that will last.

[@charisma-hornum-fries]

It’s just...... It’s visual ASMR. It’s the most amazing.

[@robertnash2446]

The block on the concrete pad.....or block on concrete footings is by far the best foundation you can build......get that wood as far up away from the ground as pissible....good work Bondo.

[@buelowexcavating]

We had 2 pole bans built . A regular one built in 1973. The other one built in 1983 set in the side of hill with a wood foundation with about 6' of backfill on three sides, The first year heat bill for winter in Minnesota for the 1983 pole barn was about $150! There is no decay on either building. I have seen some that had disintegrated due to rot. Having the 3 block on the slab is a really good idea. I have 2 garages where the wood was paced on the slab. The one built in 1954 will have to be jacked up, block put under to get rid of all the rotten wood. The one built in 2004 is rotten on the bottom, I am replacing the wood trim with plastic trim. Good video.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for sharing That is really good info for us all to learn. 👍

[@buelowexcavating]

Thank you. I worked on a project that was had a new overhead high voltage lines installed. There were 3 large, expensive 6 year old houses that had to be moved to make room for the overhead wires. I would first remove the concrete slabs, steps, sidewalks and patios. To make the front entry level with the house floor, the concrete was poured about 1' higher than the top of the foundation, then had concrete steps going down to grade. When I pulled the the steps and slab away from the house it exposed the sill plate and rim joist, it was so rotten that I could easily push my bare hand thru the rim joist and into the basement. You could not see the damage inside the basement because the walls were insulated and sheet rocked. The other place of rotting was on the walk out basements, people like their outdoor slabs to be the same height as their basement floor. This also rots out the wood in the basement walls.

[@adamUDavies]

The way you explain it and watching it makes it look so easy. That is a young man's Job 😂 I'm a retired carpenter and only did as much concrete work as I had to.

[@pjfan173]

Another awesome job.

[@tommckinney3947]

Hi Ron, Looks good. He has a great view on to the lake. I agree with you, get the wood out of the dirt!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Tom. That is why you won't see a pole barn on my property unless it has the concrete hooked to the poles.

[@LetsGoYall]

Love seeing a concrete pour, looks great!

[@richardhainsworth5415]

Love your explanation as to why you do what you do. in the UK we don't have wood in the foundations just as you say Rot will follow soon. But we build slabs with expansion joints in to stop cracking not just cuts as you show. thanks for the video.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks. I wish we did not put any wood in the ground.

[@andycrawford8689]

Awesome job u and ur guys did there hope u and ur family is having a good Christmas be safe and be careful

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Andy Merry Christmas

[@bardman3819]

"Big Biscuit" - Love it.

[@bondobuilt386]

awesome

[@MrSprintcat]

Awesome thank you for the video. Merry Christmas. From Rhode Island.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thank you and merry Christmas as well.

[@timlecount8690]

Well done, looks great! I’ve poured two mono slabs for my house in Alaska. I’m a huge fan of the system. Up here we put insulation underneath the slab as well as insulation down the side wall and out 2 feet minimum. 4 feet out on the corners. We also stick radiant heat tubes in it and it works awesome. Our thickened edge “footers” are 16 to 24 inches deep. Thank you for your videos!

[@mattb4386]

That’s the same way we did my mono slab for my garage with radiant heat. Makes it so nice

[@bondobuilt386]

Yup I have done several this way as well when they want the heated slab. Great way to build a barn or even a house. The heat is unbeatable.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@mattb4386 except it gets the beers warm too quick. LOL

[@schweg2]

I’m building a cabin slab with thickened edge, do I run my in floor heat tubing out to the wall or keep it back 16” before the cut starts.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@schweg2 I would keep it back the 16" out of the footer area.

[@SmallVansBigWorld]

Good work! I can see how it will last a long time!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks it will be there a long time.

[@GeeRepp]

Stone Mortar Mixers are bulletproof! Mine can sit for a year and one pull will start that Honda right up! Keep it up! 💪🤘

[@bondobuilt386]

I just restored this one in video. I did new bearings and painted it. New tires and belts. The motor smokes but runs like a champ. I had that Honda motor on 4 different mixers in the last 30 years. It just won't die. Lol 😂

[@TimberTramp]

Insulate the outside edge just under grade and it will help keeping the frost out from under the edge. There is a guy in Idaho that makes a foam form that can be used for this type of foundation and he has engineering for every county in Wyoming….hard to get colder than wy!

[@mschumaker1]

Nice work, i really enjoy your videos and the way you plan & execute projects. The only thing I'd ever add is that I'd never build a project like this and not put a floor drain somewhere...

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Mike. We do a lot of trench drains but it is totally up to the homeowner if they want one. They are about $1000 extra and some can't justify the cost. I would always want one in my buildings. I got several trench drain videos bud.

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

What up bondo, merry Christmas, we call it thickend edge.

[@bondobuilt386]

Merry Christmas buddy. Yes makes a great foundation IMO

[@frankflanagan109]

Looks good 👍 She's solid!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Frank.

[@lightning9279]

An eight pound six ounce Baby Jesus Merry Christmas to you. Strong work. I like these foundations.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thank you so much and Merry Christmas and god bless

[@edstevens9357]

Merry Christmas

[@bondobuilt386]

Merry Christmas Ed.

[@wakeupmofoers691]

cool good work, this mixer rigs have all kinds of nice shutes great vid

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks and yes it is real handy

[@Zack7228]

Hi Bondo…I believe I have watched all of your videos…and learned something from each. I have a simple question or two if I may? I am building a 37.5’ by 60’ garage /shop this coming spring. I am still on the fence as to whether I will use ICF or stick build. My questions are about the foundation… I live in Durango,Co…where the frost line as best I can tell is about 32”. When digging the footings…doesn’t the bottom of each footing need to be below the frost line? As I understand it…for a monopour…the depth at footing would be at least 32” below undisturbed grade? I would plan on 6” slab for the floor…how wide would you make the footing for a one story garage? I will go back and rewatch your video on how to insulate your footing from frost line to see if that allows you to use a shallower footing? Thanks in advance…..Steve.

[@augustreil]

I agree with not the putting the wood into the ground, just seems wrong. RR Building uses a big galvanized holder for their posts, looks like it works good. Great video.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks. Yes he does it a good way.

[@timpottenburgh5407]

I heard you guys were from New York then I heard you say lake Ontario and then the pond.....I'm from there aswell..I live in sandy creek right next to sandy pond...(the pond)

[@GlenS123]

Merry Christmas! Couldn't agree more with future failures that will happen to all those pole-barns. Pressure treated fence posts put in the same rot off, why wouldn't the buildings?

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes Glen. We are leaving a big mess for the future owners of these buildings. Worse yet they are making them into houses not just a cheap cold storage building.

[@jacobnorton1]

@@bondobuilt386 Didn't realize people still stick poles directly into the ground, especially on residential post frame. Literally every barndominium video I've seen uses concrete piers with steel brackets above grade to attach the poles to, or they build a concrete foundation wall and anchor the brackets to that. Obviously poles directly in the ground is going to rot, but when done right, I can't see a post frame building lasting any less amount of time than a stick framed wall on a slab on grade/foundation wall.

[@joeshaffer52]

I’m in Ohio and been doing concrete for over 30 years and me my self I do my pours like that with deeper footer on one with block on or if it’s a metal building going on it plus’s I do mine with a 6” floor so it’s out of the ground good 4” and don’t have to worry on anything and no call backs good job 👍

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Joe. Sounds like you do quality work bud.

[@waymonblevins6939]

I agree a garage floor should be 6 inches.

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

That's so cool how the 2nd truck can pour into that converor

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks bud. Makes it nice that's for sure.

[@riderowner9285]

Like the monolithic slab.. in Vermont what I've noticed with the block ontop of slab is the block deteriorate over time.. would forming and pouring instead of block work?..or at that point just better go with frost wall?..good job

[@zaneturner4478]

Not just barns have the wood rot when they put them in the ground. I built my fence and cross fences on all my property years ago. My neighbor and my in-laws all told me I was crazy for how I did my my fences. I poured concrete in my corner post holes and made a cradle that mounted on that and then installed my corner posts to that, did the same thing with my line posts as needed. My fences are still standing and the neighbor and in-laws posts have rotted off where they set them in concrete.

[@bondobuilt386]

Absolutely. I wish everybody thought that same way you do. We are leaving a mess for the next generation.

[@gregwitkamp5583]

Nice garage, since you use ICF I’m surprised you dont use it instead of concrete block. You got to save your back every chance you can.

[@bondobuilt386]

I do it both ways but cost comes in to play for sure. Concrete blocks are about 1/2 the price of ICF.

[@clydecox2108]

Merry Christmas Bondo.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Clyde

[@jimgraham4673]

nice work.

[@italRotty]

Hey Ron , was this on Oneida Lake? nice job man as always ! Merry Christmas to you and your crew !

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks it was on Sandy Pond that is hooked to Ontario Lake. Merry Christmas to you as well.

[@vincentmeyers9365]

Hey Bondo - Just watched this. Typically how deep is the trench around the edge of the pour? Hope that makes sense.

[@scottwidrick1835]

nice job. How thick is the haunch around the perimiter?

[@terrylutke]

I like the thickened edge/floating slab detail, nothing wrong with that for sure. I do question your observation stating that pole barns could have buried wood issues within 20-30 years. I assume you're thinking that the actual posts could fail due to rotting or pest damage. Treated post construction has been around for over 50yrs, sub soil post failure has not been an issue as far as I'm aware. Maybe you know of cases where this has happened, I do not.

[@augustreil]

My sister has 600ft of 6'' x 6'' pressure treated posts that were used for a wood fence, almost every one has rotted at the dirt line. The whole fence needs replacing, just terrible. I've had the same happen to my tiny 20ft of fence.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@augustreil Thanks for the info I completely agree

[@bondobuilt386]

Look up permacolumn brackets you will see rotten posts being repaired.

[@terrylutke]

@@augustreil Wood post treatment chemicals have changed over the years to comply with exposure risk regs, maybe not for the better. Interesting is that heavily treated RR ties will rot out over time, even though they're place in well drained stone beds. Hard to know how old the ties are I suppose (almost certainly decades).

[@colinstace1758]

Did you ever use ICF blocks instead of cinder blocks ? You could maybe pour the blocks at the same time you do the slab. 👍🙂

[@bondobuilt386]

I have used ICF for doing this but we set after the slab was dry and poured next day.

[@micmike]

I agree, better to put cement in the ground and keep wood above.

[@charlesviner1565]

Merry Christmas everyone 🎅

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Charles Merry Christmas to you as well

[@RJM1011]

NICE thumbs up and shared. :)

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks so much Richard.

[@mehmet284]

well done

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks

[@davebeck3135]

Merry Christmas Bondo

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Dave Merry Christmas as well buddy.

[@chazlyle41]

Every pole barn I’ve seen built in my lifetime has had concrete in the ground past the frost haha.

[@SciPunk215]

nice

[@bondobuilt386]

Thank you

[@Muddawg217]

How far will y'all travel to do a job?? Asking for a reason. 24×40

[@bondobuilt386]

Where u live?

[@brockwagner939]

I like the slab, but I'm not a fan of block. Seems like after 20 years they are falling apart, maybe above grade it isn't an issue.

[@bondobuilt386]

They will last much longer above grade or under grade with foam against the wall and good stone up against that for drainage. Clay dirt will kill a block wall in 20 years from pressure and frost

[@dmhunter666]

The only thing I would have added is concrete in every cell of the blocks. I did this when I built my garage and haven't had any issues in the last 25 years.

[@clinteast7476]

What is cost labor and material to do this size? Thanks

[@David_Mash]

You did those three courses so fast, would you say that cmu is faster than ICF

[@bondobuilt386]

I think it can be faster and cheaper for sure. they both have there place

[@vincentmeyers9365]

I meant to say "footers" around the edge.

[@austin3626]

“Tuna, go hose yourself off kid”. That made me laugh.

[@bogey19018]

We would need 3' deep footings in my area to do that type of work.

[@JJ-jv1gu]

Is that near Oswego??

[@AndyFromm]

New saw? Merry Christmas

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes sir new saw. Merry Christmas Andy

[@AndyFromm]

@@bondobuilt386 looks nice

[@Box545x39]

I've always wondered with floating slabs, if the slab heaves and floats as it's designed, are there ever issues with the plumbing not heaving with it under the slab and cracking?

[@bondobuilt386]

I never have seen any problems at all with these foundations and I have done many. I think plumbing moves with it and if there is heat in slab they don't move at all. 👍

[@Box545x39]

@@bondobuilt386 That's another selling point for radiant heat then. Appreciate the reply.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@Box545x39 I agree I am a big fan of radiant. This place is going to be a summer home so they did not want the radiant.

[@fhuber7507]

We use the "floating slab" for homes here, with clay going down too deep to drive a piling looking for bedrock. The version shown here would crack and split. With a heavy enough edge and crossing "beam" trenches, the whole slab might tilt, but it won't break. There are companies that will drill into the slab and pump "flowable fill" (sloppy, extra sandy mortar mix) and re-level a slab. As done in this video, the slab would not survive our shifting ground. In summer we get 2 inch wide cracks in the ground you can drop a nut on a string down several feet. Then it rains and the cracks close up.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@fhuber7507 Wow that's crazy. Thanks for sharing that information.

[@detectoraid5985]

Stabbing J bars wet is far cheaper then drilling and epoxy if you cant do a proper rebar rack and float around the verts...

[@bondobuilt386]

Agreed.

[@kensmith4802]

Can you build a pole barn on a slab like that ?

[@terrylutke]

In general I'm all for building techniques that can save money. If a post type dwelling is less expensive and it can last for 60yrs+, it undoubtedly could be an adequate garage or dwelling, and fit a lot more budgets. In the end I doubt anyone receives bonus points for building something that will outlast themselves (no disrespect to Old World castle builders:).

[@bondobuilt386]

For a little more money There could be concrete hooked to the 6x6 and it will not have to be repaired.

[@terrylutke]

@@bondobuilt386 Not sure what that means? I have seen videos of post buildings where the wood post is bracket fastened on top of a concrete pier, at or above grade. I've always assumed that buried post butts where important as part of a post structure's side load calculation. I might be wrong.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@terrylutke permacolumn.com Check it out

[@bigbuck2720]

Why not termite block top row?

[@bondobuilt386]

We do not have termites in New York thank god.

[@joehuinker7009]

That there is called a muck truck!!

[@bondobuilt386]

Nice never heard that before bud.

[@peterrobins3548]

Just use the metric chairs. They're heaps safer.

[@bondobuilt386]

What are the metric chairs? I might try them.

[@pulporock]

Merry Xmas from Oz. So the cuts and blocks were done the next day? Ever used mortarless blocks? I’ve never worked on a slab without rebar chairs. I entirely agree about timber in ground, your setup looks great. All the best for 2022.

[@canonicaltom]

Pulling up the reinforcement during the pour, instead of using chairs, is called 'hooking' and it isn't allowed in my area.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@canonicaltom What are the chairs made from. I find plastic ones just break when walked on.

[@bondobuilt386]

The cuts were done day of the pour and blocks the next day. I have used mortarless blocks that got core filled after but they stopped making them in my area. They were called Azar blocks. What king of chairs do you use?

[@canonicaltom]

@@bondobuilt386 The local recommendation is to use brick chairs

[@charlespierce3647]

50 years is not long?

[@bondobuilt386]

Pole barn Might only last 30 years 😩👎🏻

[@kinitauakitau8593]

You guys should watch ninja concrete from Australia. And learn from it.

[@michaeleaston547]

I watched it and maybe the difference is in building code requirements. Seems like a lot of drama and extra work to get to the same end. They did a great job.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@michaeleaston547 Thank you buddy

[@bondobuilt386]

Different methods to get to the end of the day. They do nice work but just a different area and certainly different weather. Mike Day does it way different then me but he also does excellent work.

[@elbuggo]

If you add 10% extra water, you will decrease the strength of the concrete with 30%.

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes water reducer is the way to go.

[@davem3789]

Whatever that wire mesh is it’s a waste. As soon as your guys pulls it up a fraction of an inch it goes right back down as everyone else walks on it.

[@genechoate5020]

I’m not a concrete expert but have worked a few pours as the wire puller, it’s pulled into the center and the rock prevents it from being pushed back down, you can feel the difference of wire position as you walk in the concrete .

[@stevealber9779]

If you go that far why not go with a frost free footing it doesn't make sense to put that much money into a building and not do a deep footing

[@jimanderson4495]

Ronny…. I gotta stop watching yur channel! I’m having concrete nightmares….seriously. Here comes the MUD. Oh …it’s coming too fast. Not enough manpower. Settin up too fast . Can keep up. Whew… rough night. Glad it’s morning.

[@bondobuilt386]

it's ok uncle Jim its just a dream. Marinade some of those light beers from Budweiser in ice for a few hours and make a few rebar caps. You will sleep like a baby bud. LMAO.