For those wanting the LINK for the Wall Building Video I used - kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6W1ZmmBhbCtfbM&ab_channel=jacksonclimbs Apparently if you have AdBlocker on then the little pop ups we add to the video don't work :) Hope that helps guys!
@zyairekarson33343 жыл бұрын
Instablaster...
@JimClimber3 жыл бұрын
The unexpected shade thrown at Culann was just *chefs kiss*
@courtclimbs3 жыл бұрын
“And the cool thing about it is that Culann still can’t do it” 😂
@richardbradley15323 жыл бұрын
Savage 🤣
@Hellenen3 жыл бұрын
😂
@sethgilbertson24743 жыл бұрын
This is REALLY great advice! I’ve had a home board for a few years and these are things that learned in one form or another over the years. Particularly leaving a setting for 8 to 12 months!
@edwinbarker77633 жыл бұрын
Was an absolute banger of an episode! Cheers so much man!!
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
No worries man 😄
@ale86pi3 жыл бұрын
Nice video! My 2 cents based on my experience with my "lockdown board": 1) If you're weak like me, 30 degrees is already good for bouldering 😅 2) You can get started with very few holds. It's surprising how many boulder problems you can set with the same dozen of well-placed handholds. 3) It's easy to make very basic holds. They're nowhere near as good as the ones you buy, but they're ridiculously cheap to make, and they do the trick.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
1) hahaha true! But... when you get strong from your 30 degree board, eventually you’ll want a 45 😜 2) so true! 3) also true, but I do like having nice shapes to pull on. And with the price of some wooden holds being so relatively cheap I often think I’d rather support some of the climbers who’ve started up businesses doing this and give myself more time for climbing 🧗♂️
@ale86pi3 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips Agreed on 3! I bought many holds as well and they're great, but it's fun to make a few at home, and also that's useful to know for those on a low budget... Regarding 1... I hope so!
@driklol3 жыл бұрын
The advice of use it for a couple of weeks, see what holds you use a lot which you never use , which you love and hate is probably the best advice in the video. It's been the main thing that I've suggested to others building a wall too. Over lockdown I went with the symmetrical route for training, do a climb on one side hop down and repeat it on the other, it's been very beneficial. However I do think its time to go back to a more chaotic smattering of holds and trying to come up with some things I fail on over and over. Great video .
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Another thing I do is I have small screw ons off the board that I leave for adding to create replicas more easily. That way I can have a fixed set that stays on the wall, but then also be able to customise a few problems here and there.
@ntman15673 жыл бұрын
Love the cameo of Long Neck Ondra! Great video guys and gals!
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
If you watch our other vids, he actually makes quote a few cameos :P A little easter egg for you guys!
@ntman15673 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips Ohhhh my gosh... I watched many and I have seen parts but now much like Culann and your sends.... Gotta catch em all!!!! (anyone with photoshop skills edit culann with a poke ball baseball hat one). Or just have Culann discuss baseball stats. Love you guys and gals you keep me and the whole team motivated!!!
@alvaroc63263 жыл бұрын
completely agree on everything you pointed out. I recently built a fixed two boards 35 degree with a 50 cm kicker and it's going great. At first I set some problems and now as I bought most of my holds in pairs I've set it symmetrical so we'll be able to go at hard problems on both directions as well as doing some endurance training on medium holds. Couldn't be happier and getting stronger.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Brilliant! I’ll be interested to hear how you get on with the symmetrical training. I used to do a bit of this at the wall but always ended up just doing the one side 😅 It was always super interesting how one side favours though!
@alvaroc63263 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips I've been putting some time and effort into it, recently I set 15 symmetrical problems and been trying them with a friend and chart the results (flash, the tries to get it or fail), usually the ones set right to left have been more challenging than left to right, my friend has noted serious imbalance on his performance when the crux is on his weak side, for me is usually the same on both sides as on the confinement I've spent quite a long time training on rings and finger strength. Anyway, loving the symmetrical training.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
@@alvaroc6326 Great to hear! There is a symmetrical board at my local gym (which we can't go to currently due to lockdown) so will be good to see when I'm back there how things are on each side. I'm terrible for training it though - can never be bothered hahaha
@oovlocityoo26719 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video, yes it is a good way to see it! that if you don't see chalk you don't use it. So u need to change the position of that hold😊
@09tclarke3 жыл бұрын
This man really said "I warm up on your project" damn that's alpha
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Haha 😂 its just a wind up 🐺
@joshledbury62293 жыл бұрын
Nice one. having just built a wall this weekend its a good timing to see this. I like the advice on splitting the board into a grid
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Thanks man 🙂 Good luck with the new board!!!!
@driklol3 жыл бұрын
Consider looking at places like Home Depot or Lowes (or your local hardware places if youre not in the US) and check out the banisters, toppers etc, really anything used to build stair cases. You can find REALLY nice wood in very good shapes for climbing for pretty cheap, I have at least a dozen holds on my wall ranging from pinches to crimps and slopers that were all built using these kind of materials. Total cost for all those mats was under 100 bucks (i can still make many more holds out of the spare wood too). You would need the 3/8in hex head bolts, a decent washer and appropriate paddle / drill bits for this.
@dsmeier62703 жыл бұрын
Love this. Glad you're passing on what you know to your audience.
@arpadzsigmond23763 жыл бұрын
Great vidi. Also my inspiration coming from outdoor projects
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
We need to keep the dream alive!!! 🧗♂️
@ehgeese3 жыл бұрын
That seems like a good use for the backside of your friction slab trainer! One clear downside is that the steeper you make the backside, the easier the friction slab will be. Your setup there looks a bit on the easy side for my tastes!
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
There’s a lot of screws sticking out the back which make the slab easier too
@ehgeese3 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips pretty much reverse crampons for the ice climbing season
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Like something out of a Hellraiser film 😈
@arturomejiaelbedroom38792 жыл бұрын
amazing! this is the best video after watching some 30 others
@SM-wr3jr3 жыл бұрын
Cracking video Robbie, some great tips in there thanks. Would love a home board
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Thanks man :)
@mixcrimpcunningham45353 жыл бұрын
Excellent Video! Thanks. So much good advice, now to put it into practice. 😁👍
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
No worries Mix!!!
@tommartin71943 жыл бұрын
Just need a space to build in now!
@saiga40743 жыл бұрын
i build my 4foot by 8 foot wall in my kitchen >< with hand saw and a drill (living in a appartement)
@j.v.27753 жыл бұрын
great video man ! , good therory crafting. keep it up :D
@robertcreer88262 жыл бұрын
Will build one if I ever have space
@BlakePizzey3 жыл бұрын
Great video and very helpful! About to film a build series on a wall in my basement
@Cacovangor3 жыл бұрын
Worked around the problems of angle choice my making mine adjustable by way of and old gym rope, grigri, and pulleys, and utilizing some heavy wall anchors. Allows me to set my session to warm, for aero cap, endurance, power endurance, strict power, contact, and whatever else, plus the whole setup is actually easy to take down if need be.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
That’s brilliant! Good effort man. I’d have loved an adjustable board. Maybe later down the line
@MF-CLIMB3 жыл бұрын
Excellent video. Anyone got a spare garage I can have? Thanks in advance 🥴
@dmizzle733 жыл бұрын
Hey Robbie, builder mate of mine was concerned by your leg configuration. If the legs are different strengths (just going by the different widths) and angles then they will give uneven support to the frame which may warp it over time. He was also questioned why you had only 1 parallel set of noggins between the studs on your frame. You could get another couple of lengths on the lower leg wood to replace the upper legs and use the 2"x4" legs for the noggins. Couldn't see a link to the video you followed to see if they advised correctly... Really enjoy your channel, don't want you to get squashed - big jumper envy throughout this video.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Hey Daniel, Thanks for the comment. I’ll be dead honest, we followed the video mostly, but then veered of slightly when we built the legs 😅 However we did build it to be pretty strong - both the legs take the weight comfortably and when we climb on it it doesn’t seem to be straining at all. I don’t know what it will be like over time, but it’s been about 10 months now and the board still feels pretty darn solid with no sign of warping. Secondly, don’t know what a noggin is. I’ll Google that and get back to you 😅 Is the link not there? I’m sure we have it on screen when I mention it. Haha thanks mate! Christmas jumper from my auntie 😂 Hardly taken it off, so cosy!
@climberdad Жыл бұрын
Looks good Robbie. Next wall build if you want to do a collab video reach out to me.
@RobbiePhillips Жыл бұрын
cheers man. Haha think you're a bit far away to just pop over :P
@climberdad Жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips that's true, but I might be able to help digitally
@twanjon96143 жыл бұрын
great video! any specific hold sets or brands youd recommend ?
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Oh yeah! So with the plastic holds there are so many new brands now, but I quite like the old school basic shapes I haven’t bought new plastic holds in years, so just look for any sets that have comfortable basic shapes. A really good company for that is CORE. They’re a U.K. based company, and pretty common in the walls, but some of their basic medium sized edges are so comfy and good for training on. As for wooden holds, I’ve bought a lot from SillyGoat Holds, Beastmaker and more recently Lock Holds. SG geos are brilliant for all levels and are really nice shapes! They also do brilliant geo pocket sets that are really adaptable! Beastmaker have a good selection of all types of holds Lock are easily the fanciest holds I got and their crimps are my favourite!
@Keukeu458 ай бұрын
This was very useful thanks! Did you consider buying a ready made board like a moonboard? Since it wouldn't have been that more expensive.
@hunterpoff39993 жыл бұрын
It looks like Ill have to patent my adjustable board I have in the garage.
@leedarkin-miller76853 жыл бұрын
T-shirt idea: 'Culaan Can't Do it'
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Hahaha
@lukemac94843 жыл бұрын
What are the dimensions of the board? I'm trying to work out if i can fit one in our spare bedroom.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
I don’t have them to hand, but basically it is 2.25 standard size 3/4” panels with a very short 20-30cm kickboard. The kickboard was well worth it, but don’t make it too big - It only needs to be small. If you can manage this then you’ll be laughing. I wouldn’t really want it any smaller.
@hyau233 жыл бұрын
Hi Robbie, if you were to build the wall outside, what things do you need to consider compared to an indoor board?
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Obviously weatherproofing it, but that goes without saying. You may want to invest in a higher quality ply wood, possibly treat it as well. You’ll probably want to build a structure to shelter it. A few friends of mine built a wall that had a shelter over it as part of the overall build. I’d say a really important thing that could be overlooked is humidity and how that affects holds. My board is in a shed that gets quite humid and in fact feels like outdoors, and some holds hold moisture more than others, especially the wooden ones! Not all of the wooden ones strangely... unfortunately I don’t know why this is so can’t really help too much there, all I can say is be wary of it. Last week I had to unscrew and take some of my holds in to dry on the radiator 😅
@jn425413 жыл бұрын
cool
@jrsixowfour86742 жыл бұрын
Any advice to avoid injuries or arthritis?
@shtodrummer3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the very informative video! Due to space & supporting structure restrictions, I ended up with a 20 deg wall (3.2m high). I appreciate that it's nowhere near the optimum specs for effective training, but I am wondering what's the best way to ensure that I make the most out of it? Use smaller size holds and focus on endurance training/technique drills etc?
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Hey man, sounds like an awesome wall! 45 degree is just my optimum, but I know plenty of climbers who use 20 degree boards and make it work for them. I would recommend to get some really nice wooden rounded edges and place them in undercuts/gaston positions - these are pretty intense even on a 20 degree board. Make sure to turn your footholds at different angles, not just flat horizontal, so it really forces you to think about how you use your feet and you can’t just plant your feet on them. Also get some slopey feet! You’ll definitely have to get lots of bad hand and footholds for boukdering, but for endurance training get some nicer holds too - 20 degrees is still overhanging and you’ll need some comfy mid size rounded edges and pinches.
@shtodrummer3 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips thank you so much man! So helpful :) I was considering getting some wooden holds, as I only have plastic ones at the moment. I'll make this one work and hopefully in the future I'll find some space to build a 45 deg too!
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
@@shtodrummer Loads of good wooden hold manufacturers! Id recommen SillyGoat, Beastmaker, Lock Holds in the UK :) Thats what I've got
@shtodrummer3 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips 👌👌🙏
@CragDawgs Жыл бұрын
Doesnt matter what foam you get its going to cost the same. If youll use the pads outdoors get bouldering pad's. If your going to leave the foam under your board a big piece of foam will end up costing the same as smaller ones to fill the space. This is because the foam isnt expensive what so ever. All the cost is in shipping
@Keithsmegbelly3 жыл бұрын
Do you have a link for the video you followed?
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Ahhh sorry dude - we're fixing that now :)
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
See my pinned comment
@tushitjain2 жыл бұрын
If you buy gym seconds/rejects, you can end up with holds of lots of different colors. Have you tried painting them with spray paint to create a set of holds of the same color?
@RobbiePhillips2 жыл бұрын
nope... I think depending on what paint you use that coul affect the friction?
@zolbly3 жыл бұрын
F in the chat for my brother Culann
@WildlifeZambezi3 жыл бұрын
What holds do I need to train for polished gritstone climbs?
@theopinson38513 жыл бұрын
Yes, Robbie...volumes have a place on the board: anywhere you damaged your wall lol
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
HAHAHA!!! Yes 👍 very true 😂
@willadams62173 жыл бұрын
What T nut spacing did you go with?
@TheManCave5633 жыл бұрын
Robbie, when I am setting my home wall, if a create a problem that I can't do within a few goes should I make it easier or just grind at it til I can do it? Cheers
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Oh defo grind at it! I have a lot of problems that I can’t do after a few sessions nevermind a few goes :) it’s good to have projects!
@jamesclark62573 жыл бұрын
Certainly a more budget friendly option than the wide boyz home wall
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
For ONLY £18k you can get one those Kilter boards!
@jamesclark62573 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips makes the 2016 DIY moonboard kit is relatively good value at £2,200 and you just have to build the frame yourself.
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
So what’s the £2200 get you?
@jamesclark62573 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips drilled boards with t nuts, holds, bolts, LEDs and the magic box that controls the lights. moonclimbing.com/moonboard-diy-kit-2016.html You just build the frame and source your own mats. You can get more up to hold sets but it bumps the price up a bit.
@kikolification3 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips holds led and pre drills panel but you also pay for all the problems already set in the app ... dunno if it s worth it though
@alexfapium69783 жыл бұрын
Where do you buy the wall for fixe holds, on internet ?
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Sorry, what do you mean? The plywood?
@karabaia54173 жыл бұрын
Is it to much 4'5m heigth? 30°
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
4.5m in total height is the highest for a commercial bouldering wall... I think for a home wall it’s really not necessary. Maybe 3m max with more width is a better option. If you can get a 45 degree board in there too then you’ll have beta of both!
@thenayancat88023 жыл бұрын
Which gym closed down?
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
It was Alien Rock 2 a while back - feels like only yesterday but was probably a few years now
@thenayancat88023 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips Ah before my time climbing I guess! You had me afraid that alien bloc or rock (or eden rock) were shutting down, dunno if my wee heart could handle that atm
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Haha don’t worry, those guys are still going so far as I know. Alien rock 2 was the og bouldering wall in Scotland 🏴 ahead of its time
@bazwax773 жыл бұрын
What wall recently closed? ✌🏻
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Old alien rock 2
@bazwax773 жыл бұрын
@@RobbiePhillips never climbed there...only the daddy alien rock and the illegitimate child,alien bloc......but they still speak of A2 in folklore ✌🏻🏴💪🏻
@RobbiePhillips3 жыл бұрын
Mate it was a legendary place!!! Well ahead of its time.