Building a Snowboard - Part 7: Profiling the Core

[@damianthecameraman]

I make snowboards as a hobby. Liking these episodes with your build. I have had great experience with smooth on pmc 790. It’s downfall is 48 hrs cure time. I use a planer crib with no issues! Excited to see how this all turns out

[@GoodRoads]

I just used some PMC 790 for a failed skateboard bushing project. I really didn't like working with it, but I'm in the market for a 90-100a urethane for bushings and wheels anyway. It would be so, so sick if I could use the same urethane for sidewalls. I'm trying out Specialty Resins' Flex-it 90 next

[@rayhslim]

Awesome to see you back in action Chris!

[@GoodRoads]

Thanks dude! It's been a long time coming

[@notprochris]

Great video. Not printing the top and bottom layers for the wedges is such a great idea for saving materials and time. Nicely done!

[@GoodRoads]

I got some tips that fixing down the ends of the nose and tail might help with the tear-out issue (which is exciting) so it might be beneficial to have the extra surface area of the printed top layers. I think I might cap mine with something. It might still be faster to cover the grid than to print the top though

[@notprochris]

@@GoodRoads Could always set up an overnight print of .2 height of a single layer sheet and glue it to the infill wedge. If that makes sense. Print bed time can be a pain sometimes.

[@urkolarranaga5845]

Bravo, bravo, bravo!! Super nice videos and super smart solutions.

[@jamesedwards7432]

3d printers are brilliant. the parts that seem the most difficult for me to do at home for DIY snowboard is the core profiling and camber profiling for the lay up/press. but i think you're onto a winner. thanks heaps bud for continuing the series, might be time for me to invest in a 3d printer...

[@GoodRoads]

They're really great tools and it's really nice to run a long print of a component or jig that you need and go work on other things. It's like you're being double productive

[@tarynkoomen6689]

You deserve literally so many more subs, love what you do!

[@GoodRoads]

Thanks dude! Tell your friends? Hahaha

[@rafaelellis-rech6950]

This is an awesome series man please finish it off soon!!

[@GoodRoads]

Next video will be out this friday! Now that I've wrapped up the open source urethane projects I'll be able to put more regular energy into the snowboard

[@rafaelellis-rech6950]

@@GoodRoads awesome man. Thank you keep putting out the great content!

[@francisbilodeau3295]

This is a brilliant way of profiling your core. I love it. Thanks for making this video

[@GoodRoads]

No sweat man, I'm just adapting what I've seen other people do to the tools I have available

[@Werner13131]

Thank you for your gread videos!

[@GoodRoads]

Glad you like them! I'm getting back to this project not this upcoming week, but the next one. Slow and steady

[@nickmar5729]

Hi. You are a source of inspiration for building my own snowboard. But before I do I would like to know if it would be easier to print a mold instead of building one with wood. Thank you!

[@GoodRoads]

Thanks dude! Do you mean a mold for pressing the board or for profiling the core like in this video?

[@nickmar5729]

@@GoodRoads For pressing. Or would it be easier for a beginner to buy a vacuum kit?

[@GoodRoads]

I haven't actually used either for pressing snowboards. The foam mold I used for this build worked out okay, some more even clamping pressure would have helped it work better. Wood molds are a little harder and more expensive to manufacture but they are the standard and get the job done. A couple people have reached out to me with 3d printed snowboard mold experiments they're doing, and they seem to work, but I can't speak to that personally

[@giorgimatiashvili1771]

Hi, you need to replace your standart blade of plainer to SHELIX Helical blade, thay have blades for most planers, operation will brcome way smooth and it won't break any sidewall materiall anymore.

[@newrenaissance]

Siiiick. I get why you were scared to touch your core. But maybe you should make a bunch of dummy planks as cores to test the this part and the rest of your processes on before you run the actual core through them?

[@GoodRoads]

That would have been a good idea. It's a bit late for it now but testing different materials and stock removal methods would be the most surefire way to do it.

[@geezgod2167]

Bro your all videos are great i have seen your many videos and also downloaded them i like your way to make the materials and your explanation way

[@camerondonoghue7908]

Love this cant wait to see the finished product. Is there a way to keep the wooden look on the top? I see everywhere talk about a top sheet but I don't want to lose that wood look with fiberglass and a top sheet over it.

[@GoodRoads]

The core has to get sandwiched between glass for the strength of the board. There are clear plastic top sheets, and the glass goes clear-ish when you soak it with resin, so that would be one way to keep the wood look. But I'm actually going with a walnut veneer top sheet, and if I get it to work it should be absolutely beautiful.

[@camerondonoghue7908]

@@GoodRoads Awesome In excited to see it

[@caliber-do1cp]

loving the work keep it up

[@ryanharrison1009]

What do you think the results would have been like if the drum sander was operable? Im thinking of building one for this same project, but I really like your solution.

[@GoodRoads]

I think it would have worked, it probably would have taken much longer though. I'm getting a lot of advice from people about this method, it seems like the planer should actually work, I just need to make some adjustments to my technique. The biggest things so far have been to leave plenty of wood beyond the urethane at the nose and tail in case there's planer problems, and to stick the nose and tail down with either hot glue or double sided tape. I'm probably going to give it another go on board no. 2

[@ryanharrison1009]

@@GoodRoads Right on👍 looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for the press

[@tylermckenna1290]

@@GoodRoads Your thinking in the right direction. Using the planer for the bulk of the job and finishing the last mm on the drum sander would have the best results. If you have the means a good helical cutter head makes all the difference.

[@GoodRoads]

I'd love to get a helical cutter, I get the advantage of many skewed small blades over a few big flat ones. But DAYUM they cost as much as my planer did! Hahaha, I think they're a little out of my budget for now, I'll have to stick with the straight blades and just keep them sharp until I can afford the upgrade.

[@bumstudios8817]

Awesome stuff keep it up!

[@wyattschmitz4637]

Would be interesting to see if you kept the core of the board visible with a clear to sheet.

[@GoodRoads]

I've got some really beautiful walnut veneer I'm planning on using as a top sheet, but clear top sheets are really cool

[@geezgod2167]

I know that your channel will grow very soon bro all the best. Bro and a👍 thumbs up for your appreciation bro

[@jimmccaslin7334]

What do you think about using some p tex base material for tip fill?

[@GoodRoads]

That's basically what I'm doing but instead of base material I got a sheet specifically for filler material that's a little thicker. The base material I have is 1.4mm and the filler material is 2mm which should match nicely with the thickness of the core

[@romantsitron5754]

hey, would you be able to share the 3D cradle design file?

[@GoodRoads]

I've got to come up with a more standard version, this one has a super short tail and long nose. I want to get some files out there for y'all though

[@rickden8362]

I don't understand why you didn't just laminate plastic strips as sidewalls and router them at the end. And use fiberglass on the tip and tail, their so thin.

[@pinkbilly]

Would you share the file to 3D print the wedges?

[@GoodRoads]

I'm not sure I have the files anymore 😬. It would be cool to have a set of different cradle shapes available to mix and match, so I'd like to do that at some point. I think in order to do a good job of designing those parts I'd need a better understanding of how this core profiling method works, and some more practice so that I can make sure the designs I'm putting out there work well.

[@LongboardTechnology]

Do you have a way to directly support you other than patreon? Like a paypal.me URL?

[@GoodRoads]

Not at the moment, but I can get something like that set up. Thanks for the interest dude!

[@geezgod2167]

And bro in the wheel molded video i am facing a problem that if we try to make the molded system at home with our hands without buy it then how to make it which things are needed to make it

[@geezgod2167]

And i am requesting you that please make a one more video About how to make the wheel molded system at home

[@geezgod2167]

And bro will you please make a more video on the 3D printed wheel mold system

[@geezgod2167]

🙏

[@oliviersgrange]

👍🏿

[@geezgod2167]

And the skateboard wheels not. Other wheels I am trying to make a skateboard at home then that's why I am requesting you to that make a one more video that how to make the skateboard wheels at home

[@geezgod2167]

You will get instagram followers and may be you will also deserve many subscribers also on your KZbin channel bro....

[@geezgod2167]

Please make a Video ok please 🙏