Building Dream SHOP In my Backyard (In Suburbia 😅) ... Barndominium?

Pole Barn? Metal Building? 30x50 or BIGGER? You tell me!
Thank you so much for the amazing support! 100,000 Subscribers and we're breaking ground on this shop whether the HOA likes it or not.
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[@CrowCreekOutdoors]

Could never live anywhere where I needed permission from a HOA to do anything on my property.

[@RichardRhoul]

I never understood why people want more government like control in their lives

[@Mebeknob]

It’s definitely a double edged sword. Without one, you can’t do anything about a house that leaves an engine block in the front yard and never mows.

[@joeybaltz582]

@@Mebeknob sure you can... dont live in a subdivision in the first place... go out and get a place in the country..

[@jacksnyder404]

Turn your layout sideways and put in multiple doors so you end up with multiple bays one dedicated for a lift and etc

[@make-it-raintx7170]

I do deliver concrete all over DFW and I might be able to get you concrete for a good price. You going to need about 35 yards if 6in thick or 45yards if 8in thick. I recommend 8inches and 3500psi concrete at least. Because you going to be parking cars and installing lifts.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I appreciate it! I'll keep your contact handy as we are approaching 100k subs! If you have an Instagram feel free to shoot me a DM 👍🏽

[@milesboyer4657]

is it a texas thing to do 6"? im in iowa and average around me is 5" but we have way different soil up here

[@JMAAD]

@@milesboyer4657 min specs for two and four posts lifts are 6" concrete everywhere.

[@tonymusolino2369]

Before you pour a single drop of concrete, be sure of the HOA requirements for the depth. It may appear benign to you, but I assure you, the HOA will fight you every step of the way. Also when considering sidewalk width and length, exterior siding, brick, veneer, garage door width and height, etc…HOA’s can be quite a thorn in your side. If not built to their spec’s they WILL make you tear it all down.

[@vulpineking215]

good point,

[@ScaleModelBuilder]

Definitely consider bumping up to 14’ ceilings. It’ll be much more spacious for the lifts and storage as well. And 2 10x10 doors would suffice. You could probably do 10x8 doors, but the cost difference will likely not be too drastic, and 10x10 leaves more room for taller toys in the future.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you! This is exactly what I need in the comments 🤙🏽

[@KL471983]

@@LonestarHawaiian i agree with the 14' ceilings. i have 14' ceilings and a 9000lb lift the top of the lift is about 12'6 but i can lift my trail boss with the hood open without hitting the ceiling. it dosent lift enough for me to stand under the truck (im 6' 2") but it is workable. i would also go 10x10 on the doors.

[@trijfarms]

Make sure your door a high enough to get you lifted trucks in. Now and if he were to go with talker lifts. 14ft ceilings are great, but difficult to reach to clean. You’ll be starting and running engines in you garage, exhaust will accumulate on the ceiling and in the corners making them dirty

[@adammorton2062]

I would say even a little higher walls he loves his trucks

[@joseturcio361]

@@LonestarHawaiian what part of texas u live on. u have big back yards not like in houston

[@2815Juan]

Those little guys remind me of my boys when they were young. Getting into everything and having fun

[@midget_cannon8517]

Make sure you leave enough space between the garage doors and the side walls. We only did 1.5ft and now that we’ve added tool boxes and shelves on the sides we have to pull in at an angle and really reduced the useable parking space in the garage.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Great callout. Thank you!

[@jayburris6252]

Have you thought about selling and buying a place without HOA and with more land? As a contractor, adding on to the house is not as much of a problem as you think. Yes, it would require re-engineering the roof, but that would be part of removing that rear wall anyway. I’d explore that option still if I were you.

[@brian2100]

Contractor

[@mylesrasmussen]

14' walls are better for lifts just as others have mentioned. May I suggest looking at rotating you building 90 degrees so that the doors are on the long side. Then you could section your space off based on the door locations. One door can be you dedicated 2-post lift. Another door would be open for moving vehicles in and out. Then the other section that doesn't have a door can be dedicated to fab area, work area, or lounge. Think of it as an oversized garage rather than a shed. Another person mentioned Durtymax Jack, he built a 80x60 building that is setup with doors on the long side and an office on the end. He also has a bunch of build videos that go through the process. My other suggestion would be get a home design software to design your layout prior to deciding on build size and location. I use Chief Architect Home Designer Suite, it is relatively inexpensive and easy to use. You can design your layout and building size and use it for your interior design. You can then take that as a starting point to a builder.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I appreciate all the knowledge here! I'm a big fan of Jack's and really enjoyed is pole barn build. I'll be mapping out a few options long vs short ways facing. My main goal is to have a great shop but still have as much of my backyard useable as possible. I'll take a look at that design software. Aloha.

[@justinlatvamaki2365]

@@LonestarHawaiian you could to 12 foot wood frame with 3 rows of brick on the bottom to give you the height and then veneer the building how ever you like. Also be aware that behind the garage will likely be wasted space so maybe pushing it back into a corner as far as you can. You can run a narrower drive past fence and make a pad infront of the garage for parking and basketball. I also like the idea of turning it so it's wider vs deeper because of easements 5 ft away from back fence makes for less lost usable yard.

[@rodoc93]

Yes those exogon lights would look great for show room. Like to see that

[@BBrazor]

Make sure your ceiling height is tall enough for the two post and four post so you will be able to lift your trucks all the way to the ceiling. Bendpak makes some great lifts. Your concrete will also need to be thick enough to support your lifts.You may also want to put a floor drain in the front half of the garage so can use it as a wash bay. Go with the 36x50.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you!

[@markphillips5800]

He doesn't seem to be breaking any rules - he may not like them but his process is spot on: find the rules, make the adjustments, execute according to the rules. I'm on an HOA board and I wouldn't hesitate to approve this build because it checks all the boxes. The only reason I wouldn't approve it would be jealousy!

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I appreciate this! That’s my goal. Knowing the rules actually creates freedom in this scenario. Going to build it according to my HOA’s regulations but still make it my dream shop 🤙🏽

[@BBrazor]

Also think about going with a 200 amp electrical service so you have enough for your lifts, ac unit, and all of your electrical needs. Also think about a heating unit, no sure how cold it gets in the winter.

[@dtrevino956]

If you don't have a podcast yet then you should start one. You definitely got good communication skills and know how to grab a person's attention.

[@adammorton2062]

Yes he does

[@adammorton2062]

Tic toc Instagram

[@robthewaywardwoodworker9956]

You might consider using some of the brick, off the side(s) of the existing house, on the front of the new garage, to tie the look together (replace that brick on the house with the same siding material you use on the shop). That will make the two buildings look like they belong together and even like they were built at the same time. It's an old remodel trick we've used for years. It also saves some money on one of the most expensive part of the build, the brickwork! I've been a custom home & building designer for just over 30 years now, so if you need any more ideas, hit me up. Cheers.

[@steadholderharrington9035]

First recommendation: Get out of the H.O.A. area and find some place not H.O.A. controlled. Home Owner Associations have but two purposes. 1). Is to maintain the best value of properties in the given area. 2). Is to give little Mussolini's or Little Hitler's the despotic power to control the lives of everyone else in their "community", whether they like it or not. Conformity is the key of an H.O.A. Second recommendation: Get a Very GOOD Lawyer who specializes in fighting H.O.A.'s and has a proven track record of winning against them BEFORE you even break ground on your project. HOA's like to control EVERY Exterior, and some interior aspects of their often unwilling "membership's members" lives, right up to what vehicles are allowed to park, and where/when, and even to what colour your house is, or what plants you have in your yard. Even flags and flag poles are subject to their regulations. It could be EXTREMELY Costly to you if you set up your garage, only to have to tear it back down because some "Board Member" of the HOA has a bone to pick with your project. If you decide to go ahead after all that anyway, then my third recommendation would be to pay attention to your foundations of the garage. A simple slab pour is all fine and dandy for a single vehicle garage, but multi-vehicle buildings should have proper footings installed around the perimeter and pilings interspersed under the floor, especially if you plan to be doing any lifting of vehicles in your garage. Screw-piles, or Helical-Screw jacks are a fairly inexpensive way to solve this problem, especially if you weld steel saddles to the tops of the perimeter Helical-Screw jacks to accept the primary wood beams of your garage's superstructure. You can also weld the reinforcement re-bar onto the tops of the piles to help stabilize your building and prevent uneven settling of your structure. They will also play a critical role later down the road should you plan to install an interior "second-floor" or "Mezzanine" floor inside your building as the piles will be able to take on the additional weight without compromising the integrity of your concrete slab. Just my two-cents on your project. (I would also recommend consulting a structural engineer on where to place said piles and how you want to construct your garage before you break ground to get the maximum future use out of your garage). 😎👍

[@chadatchley6705]

Double check your HOA restrictions for # of garage spots/bays/doors. Some limit to no more than 4 spots total on the property.

[@USAUSAM82]

40x80!? Call it good? Massive room to expand! This is gonna be Awesome! Cant wait!

[@robertlaird6746]

Consider doing 12' hi doors and building a post frame building like what RR Buildings and Marshall Remodel build. The cost of building a 30x50 car port in a post frame style with all the materials was $5,500 right before Covid. That includes all the post, roof trusses, concrete for the post to sit on, wet set metal bracket for your post to set on, all the nuts, bolts, screws, nails and metal roof. No sides to the building but if you were to add metal to the side it wouldn't cost that much and then price out the doors and windows and that's a good starting point for cost. Don't hire a contractor to build it, hire a carpenter to help you build it and save big bucks by doing so. It's a very simple way to build and just about anyone can do it. Both RR Buildings and Marshall Remodel teach you how to build it.

[@johnloflin8881]

Mine is 42 x 90, it’s full, recently added additional 24 x 26. Your a car guy, kids will probably follow, more cool vehicles equals “Should have built a bigger shop”. I had the slab with conduit for plumbing and electrical, she’ll with insulated ceiling first. It took several years to interior done and still making adjustments. Lift coming soon, probably keep the C3 on it, for additional car parking. Your videos are well done!

[@nickg89]

Love how you planned out your options. Remind me of a much smarter version of myself when making big decisions 😂

[@skrsys]

Make sure you have at least 14' ceilings for the lifts. And install high lift garage doors as well.

[@nunyabisnus5479]

I think the size you picked for your shop is decent. Go at least a minimum of 14’ walls. Consider installing scissor trusses to gain extra height. Ceiling looks better too. Make sure your O.H. Doors are high lift so the tracks are up and out of the way. Good luck! 👍🏻

[@LonestarHawaiian]

14' walls seem to be the main reoccurring recommendation in the comments! Thanks!!

[@paulcoon5399]

A lot of good comments here so far. A few notes to add: 1) Make sure that you dig down below the topsoil to load bearing soil. Never build on topsoil. 2) Make sure that you compact the soil REALLY well where you are going to be putting any concrete. Think the vibrating plate compactors (or bigger if you can get one). 3) When you pour concrete, the entire slab won't be 16 inches thick. You have foundation footers that go around the perimeter, then the majority of the slab is only about 6 inches thick. It should be at least 8 inches thick where you want to add a lift, though.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

THANK YOU for the comment and insight. I will for sure take note and ensure soil is compacted well 🤙🏽 also I appreciate the point of the concrete slab. Makes a lot more sense.

[@paulcoon5399]

@@LonestarHawaiian If you have some questions on soil prep, let me know. I work as a soil and concrete tech for a testing company, I can always give a few pointers

[@j.need4qlife483]

Before seeking approval, do not be committed to one design, have several designs that work for you. Then get a lawyer and engineer incase there are concerns about not meeting to codes and standards. The county codes can be relaxed with engineer dispostions and if needed can do a tremendous amount of work getting county codes relaxed. Also lawyers are needed in dealing with HOA board because the whole neighborhood wants to have bit of conformity that doesn't clash with surroundings. Some HOA's are absolutely anal about the smallest things. Expect the siding and color of your new garage/outbuilding to match your house even if it looks better than the house. Best of luck to you and keep us posted on your progress since there so many others that are experiencing the same pain on getting a new garage at their home.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I appreciate it!

[@seandever2289]

14’ walls if you want the lifts, and get 12’ doors. Also a standard TLB tractor loader backhoe will do the pad prep, but consult with your concrete person as to the base that he wants for warranting the work. Once you establish where lifts are going dig out a deeper trough in that are at least 5-6” thick, let also floor drain and plumbing. You will want a toilet and shower out there.

[@azwldcat13]

i also want to add how well the video was shot and edited. The Power Wheel POV shot was an unexpected and brave shot.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you!

[@ITIRICI]

Couple tips as I work in construction of all types, even have built many big company shops 8" minimum slab at 4000PSI mix design and there is a few different types and most contractors will know what you need. I would do rebar through the entire slab and this would be costly, but it would be ideal - so foundation at 3500PSI mix design - so 4 inches of stone, with 6 mil or 15 mil barriers with rebar. Slab treatment with a termiticide which is usually 12 cents to 20 cents a sq ft for reference. This would make a super solid floor that especially if the interior is conditioned, it would out live us lol. For the lifts all electrical and even air lines can be ran overhead and electrician can use strain relief for SO cord to drop down. So many options really, especially when it comes to a lift and ensuring you get the right lift and make sure to get a wheel dish as it will make pulling in and out and centering a car to a bigger truck much easier. So much more info to give, but we shall see when you get closer to that point so you can ensure you know how your sub feed for a panel into your "detached garage" will get there so it has its own panel to make it easier.

[@hughobrien4139]

With that black clay around your area I’d start off by pouring a footing about 12” thick boxed with rebar. I’d leave that rebar protruding out of the footing every two foot around the entire perimeter. Turn that rebar 90 degrees 2” off of pad height and build a stem wall that is 16” taller that planned floor height. In that stem I would tie rebar off of what you have coming out of the footing. You can accurately tie your j bolts off of this. After your stem wall is complete you have a two foot grid to tie rebar the entire length and width of the floor in two foot sections elevated off of the foundation 2” and tied with wire every intersection. This will lock that building foundation down so that it should never be a problem. With that stem wall height you can build exterior walls with 10’ studs and come out with an 11’6” wal height which should be plenty adequate in height. This height is optimum for heating and cooling. I know this sounds lofty and will add expense but will reduce problems in the long run. You can tie that rebar off yourself and do the concrete work in segments. Your 16” stem will also make washing the floors very easy. You won’t have to worry about getting the walls wet. We built my fathers 46’x64’ building this way nearly 20 years ago. It took longer and added costs no doubt but this building has no issues with foundation or cooling and heating. We live in the clay and also have plenty of those tremors in our area. There are plenty of foundation nightmares around us here north of you. My sister and brother in law live south of Sherman and I see major issues with homes all around that area.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I appreciate the info! Super valuable. Thank you!!

[@hughobrien4139]

There is Truss manufacturing company in Wynnewood OK that will build your trusses cheaper than you can buy the wood. They deliver. A quick search will point you right in their direction. Have used them twice for my own personal projects and they’re great.

[@matthoward923]

15 years ago I built a 40x60x14 with a 5 1/2 in concrete slab. I out grew that building almost immediately. Three years ago I built an additional 60x120x18 it’s not quite full yet.basic high school chemistry… the expanding theory of gas…. Junk will fill all spaces. Make it tall enough for a full size motor home to fit in the door 12w X 14t

[@cdawg9149]

Black ceiling with the Hex lights. Oh man. Lovin that

[@LonestarHawaiian]

🤙🏽🤙🏽

[@brianshertzer9838]

Just found your channel and this video. I'm in PA and just built a shop. 24x50x12 with 2 10x10 doors and 12' metal ceilings. The extra 6' width would make a huge difference, but zoning wise (non hoa) we could only go 24 wide where we wanted to put it. We did a metal pole barn, with siding, trim, and door color and design to match as much as possible, with out home. Concrete goes in tuesday, then electric, then wall finishes. You could do a pole barn, and then still finish the exterior in whatever finishes you can imagine. Id recommend to check out RR Buildings on here, kyle has a TON of build videos. Id go back a year or so, where he was doing some smaller ones, more along the size of what youre thinking. If you would EVER think of getting something like a big 5th wheel camper, id suggest going higher.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

🤙🏽🤙🏽 thank you!

[@michaelshearer3559]

Those kids smiles was awesome!!!

[@DM-tf6mk]

I would definitely with the 36x50. I put up a building last year and it's 24x40 and I definitely should have done 50. Also, I agree with another comment, 14ft walls and 10x14 doors. I say that because if you ever were to get a 5th wheel camper you would taller then a 12ft door. Just things to think about. Going to be awesome!

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you!

[@joeberry1556]

Another vote for turning the building 90 degrees and putting your doors on the long side. I made the mistake of putting the door on the short end of my first build. I was constantly moving vehicles to use/get to my lift. Add a dedicated receptacle in the ceiling near your lift for a retractable extension cord. Do the same with a shop air reel. Game changers.

[@scottcampbell1566]

Dude’s in love with his own voice. More of his face than the barndominium.

[@vulpineking215]

kids at the end got me to hit the subscribe button lol AWESOME dad!

[@glenlackey2]

This might be late but I had my garage with a typ. 9,000lbs 2 post lift in it built with hired contractors here in the Austin area. Went with 14' ceiling and it gave me 6" clearance to the ceiling. Garage was custom made it was 12' H X 20' W. It works good. you could go with a lower height on the garage but watch for garage lift mechanics pulley's etc. Also, barn doors work good but you have open / close yourself. Love your channel.

[@lifeislucci]

14’ walls if you are lifting trucks into the air. Also, plan on being over budget and it to take 3x as long as you expect. I am mid-way through getting my detached garage built and it has cost more money and time than I ever could have imagined. Make sure you know your stuff to about the concrete. Look up Tyler Ley on KZbin. Watch his videos so you can make sure your contractors aren’t cutting corners. Wet cure the concrete. The list goes on and on. If you have any questions, feel free to message me. Be patient and it will turn out incredible!

[@michelleparrott2163]

Yes to the hexagon ceiling 😀🔥

[@CarieSaad]

Yes, get those hexagonal lights.

[@nickalderman5943]

40x80, brick, max the height with the roof, and put in a mezzanine or loft for parts and storage. Get you a tesla roof and powerwall, sort the hvac and your gold. Hoa pounds sand, you are off the terrible TX grid, and you don't have a crazy electric bill. not to mention the room for 2 lift, alignment rack, tire machine, cnc, laser table, compressor, used oil furnace could be a good idea for winter and waste oil disposal if you have a small fleet of I.C.E. Vehicles, and avoid the glass door. Nosey neighbor bait lol. I hope your hoa is pissed but powerless when you finish! That's how you know you built a sick garage.

[@oldgoatherder]

Consider a 12' garage door, if you ever need to back a trailer in, it will be much easier. Check carefully to see if you can use a metal roof. Figure out exactly where you want to install a 2 post lift and just pour that area with a 6 to 8 inch thick slab. the rest of the floor can be as thin as 4 inches depending on the strength of concrete mix. Also you want a broomable finish, not a broom finish on the slab. The 14' side wall might be handy if you ever need to sell, it would be big enough to park an RV inside.

[@shelbydog1100]

Highly recommend a 14 ft wall for lift clearance and definitely recommend at a minimum of a 200 Amp electric panel assuming you can get away with a single a/c unit which being in Texas I Highly doubt that so you might want to check into a 400 Amp panel. Make sure to check lift requirements when doing the concrete. Hopefully this helps you going forward. I can't wait to go along for the ride

[@projecteli_]

Go as big as you can with what boundaries you have so you won’t regret it later. I have a 30 x 40 but wish it was a bit bigger

[@Builtmoto]

My buddy over at Corsa Werkes in Lewisville just became a lisence dealer for the hex lights here in north Texas!

[@johnbrutto9458]

90 thousand close enough let's do this ,love the videos keep up the good work 👍

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

Hire a soil stabilization company to treat the soil where the foundation goes to prevent shifting of the soil and put screw peers at critical structure support points to prevent sinking of the foundation. They said it could not be two story but they did not say you could not build a balcony/loft area. After all, you will probably need some storage and an office and a bathroom in your new garage and the flat roof area above that could be built to make a sitting or lounging or super bowl watching party or indoor bar-b-que area.

[@FastSS02]

I bought a place with a 5 year old pole barn because I could buy a nice house, but have no garage barn or buy a place with an awesome barn and a single wide trailer. I chose the barn! It's on 2 acres so I plan to build a house on it in the future. The barn is 24x60 with 16' sidewalls and a 14x14 door. 16' sidewall is PERFECT. I have my 2 Camaros on a 4 post stacker lift. The guy I bought it from had his 5th wheel RV in it and has it plumbed for an RV hookup inside and out, electric, water and sewer. It's also rough plumbed for a bathroom. It has dedicated 100 amp service running to a 200 amp main service. The 14x14 door is a bit narrow even though it's only 24' wide. I can easily park 2 cars side by side but have to squeeze off to either side to be able to get one or the other out without moving one first. I didn't find out how thick the concrete is but I know it's got rebar and it was polished so I think it's at least 6" thick. I've seen two post lifts that have been added to thinner concrete with sections being cut out of existing concrete to pour it thicker where the posts will go, or to save money, plan where the posts will go and dig deeper in just those areas for the posts to mount. If you do some searching on KZbin you'll find various ways it can be done so you don't have to drop tons of money on that thick of concrete for the WHOLE shop and driveway. Another thing is if you get a garage door opener, go with a jack shaft style. It mounts to the side of the jack shaft of the door where the spring is. That way it's out of the way and not hanging below the door and potentially in the way if you have a lift near where it goes all the way up to. I'd love for mine to be 32' wide vs 24'. It's pole type construction with metal siding and a shingled roof. HOA's are a pain and may require you to have it match the style and/or construction of the house. I would agree on the brick at least the 3-4 feet up at least on the visible sides. You could do cement board painted to match or vinyl siding. My old neighborhoods they all did vinyl siding to match the color of the house.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Great info here! thank you so much 🤙🏽

[@cristian8471]

For foundation try the Terazyme or similar if you have the right soil composition. It’s a liquid which you spray over clay and makes the soil harder than concrete, used by military to make runways and roads in the jungle or similar

[@andrewsharp7987]

Turn your garage after the shop is built, turn your garage into a indoor detail shop/ showroom detail your vehicles and do your paint corrections and stuff like that in your garage mean while using your shop to do the heavy duty jobs

[@edgardiosdado4147]

It’s the best feeling ever !!!! When I did mine I was super excited mine is 26x50 two 10x10 doors and can say I out grow it all ready!!! I had it builded two years ago that ran me 12k just metal building and concrete right at 4K so 16k total. Had a quote to expand it just 26x20 more just the build was 21k !!!! And it’s smaller then the one I had lmao but still doing it need the space. So plan it out good bro I’m excited to see the out come sir

[@traciemoomey7560]

We did 30 x40x12. 6 “ cement. We also did wire mesh in the cement. If an earthquake breaks the cement it will not move up and down. Only have cracks. Our colors are Hawaiian Blue and Gray.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Sounds awesome!

[@azwldcat13]

i have never seen your channel before but the Algorithm works. I am digging your garage setup, the trucks and the new build. New Subscriber!

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Welcome! And thanks for subscribing 🤙🏽🤙🏽

[@brianwilliamsZ28]

16'-0" to 20'-0" ceilings to do a loft space , 1'-0" overhangs, 12'-0"Hx20'-0"W garage doors, one man door, and 200A service. Place receptacles everywhere in your layout. Get some good LED Low Bay lighting. Do you have a septic system or city sewer? That could affect your placement and size if you have a septic tank.

[@sandmangti7040]

Make a log cabin garage! See how HOA likes that.

[@saviorxself20]

This is going to be so sick. Wife and I are keeping an eye out for some 1 acre lots here in the OKC metro for our next home to go on with a shop as well. Concrete prices are nuts, but well worth the investment. Stoked to see you get 10k more subs and this shop become a reality.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you for the support! Almost there 🤙🏽

[@lizardman1303]

@@LonestarHawaiian I think some people suggested it it might be better to buy a new house especially without a hoa maybe a bigger piece of land . Your garage does look cool btw

[@countrymagic61]

Put up a metal building!!! THEN have it stucco done!!!👍😎🤣

[@davissunglasses]

I don’t have an HOA or any covenants, but I’m out of the city limits by .3 of a mile and there are stipulations for how this area is zoned. Minimum acreage, minimum from property lines to structures, max height. My shop brakes the rules from edge of property, but it was there before any kind of zoning.

[@colbym771]

I think you are going the right route with 36x50... The other definitely would have gotten small on you fast!!! Good luck hope everything come through for you

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you!

[@stepheneggert7388]

I would get a nice quite air comprsoir..I bought a Saylor-beall American made unit..all cast iron..and a nice lift....installed a shower - bathroom. A a great flat tv.. h.o.a. ,s are not friendly..I would sell and go ...build the way you want..installe heat and ac..if you got the doe...I have a inground lift in my home shop..an open clean floor look..my lift came from.my dad's old service station..it was only 5 yrs old when we sold out..I removed it..stored it for 18 yrs..befor I installed it..make shure ..u have 10 in of concrete for your lift..around the lift..enjoy your build

[@jjenes1]

id put it more just of the driveway. and add an inlaw suite/pool house to the yard facing side. parents are never getting any younger...might come in handy one day.

[@chadhopkins74]

Awesome, cant wait to see it come together!!

[@mrm6610]

Go with 12’ wide doors you won’t regret it one bit. We have a 10’ door and I constantly wish it was a 12’

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thanks for the reco!

[@johnnya.quevedo2552]

Two stories tall ceiling and a loft area on top so u can see ur hard work place to relax and the kids can play while u work

[@truetech4158]

Lucky theres no HOA here. I have a 40x80ft shop, and another 30x50. Metal buildings. The oxymoron is, i just bought a electric vehicle and they almost need no work done on those ever, its even mostly plastic and i wanted it that way, because its just refuses to rust. Buying a honda previously is why i went for a mostly plastic electric this time around. Honda is famous for rusting in recording time, and that is true based on what i seen. You are going to enjoy the reverb of the new shop. Happy heavy metal!

[@cslx6678]

If your thinking basketball, make sure you have enough space for a full high school 3pt line

[@rickhill909]

I have built 4 shops. The biggest 48x48 with 16x48 carport. I would have at least one tall door of 14' in case your family decides to have an RV. I have yet to build too big of a shop. Or detached garage !

[@mattmay1643]

whatever garage door your going with look at jack shaft ( they attach directly to the overhead shaft then the wall). By doing this type of opener you keep the overhead in the entirety of the shop.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I've been looking at those! Definitely plan on it.

[@trijfarms]

Northern Texas, are you heating the shop, sorry “detached garage”? Myself living in the snow belt, in floor heat it AMAZING! If you’re doing the cement prep yourself, make sure you get really good fill and that you prep it correctly. The last thing you want is is your floor cracking in a two year old build. Research the lift to make sure you put down a thick enough concrete pad to support the lifts.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

I'm fortunate my father-in-law is a civil engineer and will likely be providing very similar direction.

[@wyattsexton7083]

You probably want to make like a barn type building so you have lots of room. I saw this place in Colorado that kind of looked like a large barn where they have enough room in their building to fit a travel trailer, many ATVs and vehicles. And in the back above was a guest type house.

[@RickheadWashington]

One thing I would say is to plan out what kind of car lift you want before you break ground. In case you decide you like a hydraulic lift under ground

[@jd1029]

Welcome to suburbia. The HOA sword cuts both ways my friend!

[@DelCalloway]

You need to illuminate your stock ZL1 tails... Tap into the running lights on them and hook up to a 12v power supply. Nice wall ornament

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Not a bad idea

[@DelCalloway]

@@LonestarHawaiian Pretty easy to do too, I just used an old generic outlet that had 12v output. Just read the text on the plug.

[@Oni4Life99]

Cant wait

[@VigAdventures]

the little cones are such a soccer player move! hahahah love the channel!

[@Rob_Bernabe]

Dang cool. While you have the tractor, build a motocross track and get some dirt bikes for those boys.

[@tvr87]

Go as high on your ceiling as you're allowed to for your HOA and cost restrictions. You will NEVER be upset that you have a higher ceiling... I have a 20x30 barn which actually is "enough" space for what I need but my biggest complaint is only a 10ft ceiling. I would target 14' if you can swing it

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Noted!

[@jackjoshlin8030]

map out where you want your lift and plan to do a 36"x36"x18" deep square for the post of your lift and have your anchors tied to the rebar so the lift is extremely secure.

[@LonestarHawaiian]

Thank you!

[@garyandtricia1]

Think about making it big enough to park an RV, if you ever sell it, that option will help the resell value,

[@LonestarHawaiian]

My wife has been hinting at wanting an RV... so likely one of the bays will be tall with a tall garage door.

[@garyandtricia1]

@@LonestarHawaiian by "hinting" do you mean, you'll have one soon? 😁

[@robertstanley980]

I would add on to the side. The 16” thick portion of the foundation is just a turn down. The rest of your slab is probably 4” thick at most. Coming off the back would be the best bet, plus you can tie in to the existing roof on the back carrying the same geometry, without the same roof pitch. Plus you could technically have a second story. Since it would be an addition. Approaching from the driveway, you would have a valley. Could put a big dormer and have an office. Or storage built in to the roof system essentially for free. You wouldn’t need to blow out that entire brick wall, I personally would put in a 10’ opening in the brick wall. Could even put a door in and close off the existing garage. Also, putting 10’ ceilings should allow plenty of room for a lift. Put in a 9’ door on high lift tracks & jack shaft motors to get the most head room.

[@robertstanley980]

Also, unless you plan on buying a 5th wheel. Anything over a 9’ garage door is a waste. Most boats with a collapsible tower will slide right in.

[@JMAAD]

with the 14' - 16' ceilings and 10x10 doors for sure. min specs for two and four posts lifts are 6"+ concrete everywhere.

[@mhueman5446]

Go for it; PROJECT SHOP!

[@stlcat314]

Love the kids face in the Camaro

[@DelCalloway]

FYI you will always wish you went bigger. Mine is 50x40 and after a few years I still wish I'd gone bigger. I have three 14x14 roll ups, they all some how survived Hurricane Laura. If I was to do it again, I'd probably go 12ft doors

[@kevinbrashear9370]

You should consider 14 foot tall doors. That way an RV or big boat could fit. 12 foot wide makes for easy access.

[@jackjensen9033]

Go for an "rv garge" style I've been an og fan and live in a neighborhood full of rv garges wich means 14' tall door u will thankyourself later! And I've also seen them put doors on the front and back of their garages wich would look really good and be super practical

[@derekdal5185]

I built a combination of what a lot have mentioned here. 60x40, 2 post bendpak asym, 14' ceiling is a must for lights or other above the lift. (2) 12x19 doors and IR heater... it gets cold here but not in the shop. Front 1/2 of the floors are drained (19x20 size). armorpoxy ultra expoy floor with urethane topcost. I've never wished I did something different. lift is set towards the back 1/3 of one bay where the floor is flat drained floor at the front

[@MrTimdtoolman1]

I have wanted a detached garage for years now but have not been able to make it happen. I can sure live vicariously through you until that happens.

[@jamesvolpe2186]

Go high as you can with the garage door and high as you can on the wall for the lift . So you can build a Cima Lifted Truck F-250 with a ANY LEVEL LIFT

[@lmt9856]

Concrete is cheap out there. I paid $9 a foot. Stamped and colored for my baby back and side yards. Paid $15k. I'm in California. 50 miles from San Francisco.

[@paulbournazian6421]

That’s how you learn never to old to learn if you good with your hands you can do anything

[@thedirtranch]

Go as tall as you can! I just built my shop (60×40×16) and I have plans to build inside my shop. My bro-in-law gave me the advice to build tall. It wasn't THAT much more money. Looking forward to seeing what you do with your shop. Hit me up if you have any questions about my building.

[@johnrosado9245]

That will be amazing brother. Let’s go folks. 100k subscribers!!!!!

[@airman6822]

Just remember, you'll never build it too big. Sideways with multiple overhead doors would be my choice then you don't have to move projects to get other stuff in and out.

[@harrysmith6119]

Build it as big as you can afford because you will need more room someday. 200 amp electrical and at least 14' high walls. If you plan to add lifts plan ahead with deeper concrete especially for a 2 post. Make sure to have multiple 220v outlets and lots of 20amp outlets including several on the ceiling. Possibly a closet for a compressor to keep it separated. Where did you get the black dry erase board, that is nice!

[@edkern0749]

Look at using scissor trusses instead of standard flat truss. I have a building with scissor trusses, 8 ft high walls and can put my 21 Silverado on the lift and raise it ( with the hood open) high enough to work under standing up. I do have to duck under the lift cross support, but no big deal. I can’t raise it to full height. Go to 10 ft walls and you should be ok.

[@tomyocom5886]

The closer the better to your house. Or , the easiest , no excuse, less work to get to your shop the better!!!!!!

[@GrimesFamilyBees]

I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet, but you can put a strain relief on a wall box and hang power to a light strip mounted on the inside of the garage door for lights when the door is open also.

[@aaronharkness3599]

Epoxy and Pin the foundation to the house... no issues at all.

[@alfredxavier5880]

Anytime I’m looking for a home and it looks fairly nice and very well kept I assume is a HOA. I really love the look of some of the homes but I steer clear of them cause it doesn’t feel like you actually own the home. I love that it keeps people on the same track of keeping a nice neighborhood standard but I don’t care for restrictions.

[@rome79735]

I know exactly what you mean.