MF135 Restoration #15 Assembling the Injection Pump

[@carlreich]

Lance, I have to thank you. I have a 1977 Land Rover Series III Diesel that was sitting for 8 years and two diesel mechanics couldn’t get it started. The second mechanic said the pump needed rebuilding and I never heard from him again. I started learning everything I could and another person on KZbin credited you in a video so I started watching your videos. I decided to tackle the job myself and while watching your video I worked on my pump. I had a clear and clean bench 😀 as you direct and I have to say, at one point when I was ready to give up you said,”You have to just keep your wits about yourself” and that was what I needed at that moment. The Land Rover is now running. It blows some grey smoke for now but it runs so well. Thank You Lance from Carl here in Florida, USA.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks, Im glad it helped.

[@freeride202]

These DPA pumps without an advance are very simple. If you have a tractor that sat for a few years, cleaning it out like this will most likely get you back to 'start and run' condition. But this is not rebuilding the injection pump. These pieces of equipment are old and I don't blame people for diy repairs. I think this was a good video, but people should be aware that a proper rebuild replaces more components and involves calibrating the pump. This ensure maximum service life and proper fuel delivery without excessive emissions. I understand many people can put up with some running issues as long as they can make it work for a few hours a year and yes save a lot of money. I'm giving this video a thumbs up.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks.

[@kenh3344]

You are correct that a shop built pump has all the correct settings etc. . Calibration.

[@ColinMill1]

Lance - many thanks for pointing me at this video. It makes pulling the top off to check the regulator valve feel less daunting. Interesting that this pump has the double regulator spring. I found my 35x has that arrangement too. I also found the regulator assembly a sufficient fiddle that, in the end, I removed the end plate and threaded the regulator cylinder, complete with piston and springs inside, into the housing with it horizontal so things didn't drop out.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great tip!

[@jimmollohan5739]

Lance, a really big thank you for your videos and sharing with the world! I'm in Canada. White 1350 tractor, I did get the spring set up wrong on the bottom of the injection pump and once on your site found the manual for the CAV pump and figured it out. I also didn't see the timing mark on the gear attached to the front of the engine. Have done a lot of mechanical but wanted to try the injection pump. Wouldn't have got it without several times watching your calm a detail you did. Bench tested alright but still couldn't start the tractor.... Tractor friend and customer of my construction company said he had 3 tractors locally that he had to tow after even fuel filter changes... After removing the pump once and rechecking on the bench, I reinstalled and 50ft pulling it in high road gear and a great sound of the engine was music to my ears! SUCCESS!! Again many thanks, Jim

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well that is good news Jim. They will test you at times.

[@JodieFreeman-k4l]

Thank you for showing the hydraulic/high pressure side being cleaned and reassembled I have a Ford 555 that had stuck valves in the hydraulic part.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped.

[@malcolmfinlay6779]

Great videos Lance, I just finished fixing the same fuel pump on an international backhoe that would not inject, with help from this video I found the plungers in the head stuck from sitting too long, cleaned it all up and re-sealed, tested in the vice, injecting now, you beauty! I'll bolt it on next week and hopefully it fires up. I also have a siezed Ferguson TE20 that I need to rebuild so I'll be watching your videos on your fergie with keen interest. Great job your doing, not many people are rebuilding anything these days so this stuff is gold. Malcolm Finlay, Mount Isa

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Malcolm, I hope the pump works out for you, I reckon it will.

[@johnambler3107]

G Day Lance, I’ve really enjoyed these videos on the pump overhaul.. I used to work as a truck mechanic years ago but never got to strip any fuel pumps, they were always sent to the fuel injection dealer for repair. These videos are great and I really appreciate the extra effort it must take in making them.

[@kenh3344]

Yes we had to take them to the pump and injection shops .

[@ivyjoe100]

This is and awesome training tool and I’ve looked for something like this for days. Thank you so much for your attention to detail and ease of explaining everything.

[@BundyBearsShed]

You're very welcome!

[@XuanTrong-ew2hb]

​@@BundyBearsShedChào thầy thầy có thể cho biết hệ thống ben mf135 không lên thì khắc phục thế nào

[@markgreen4434]

Thanks matey, I have a Perkins 4236 in a boat.Priced a new cav pump from perkins $2.500.full rebuild $1.200,seals only rebuild $600, one from china $600. Thanks to you I did full rebuild for $400. Runs like a top

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good news.

[@robertgriz2500]

You're the man Lance. I picked up a Long 445 and have been going through the diesel system trying to get it running. The injection pump is a little backwards / different than the one you rebuilt, but 90% same components. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your trade, it's been an overwhelming educational experience. Thank you friend!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks, Im glad it helped.

[@skaraborgcraft]

I attempted a rebuild a few years back, and ended up buying a new pump. My new pump had just failed, so watched your video which covered some stuff i didnt see before. Mr furgy is back to singing bud-ha-bud-ha-bud-ha. I will also be rebuilding the old pump, now i know how to deal with it. Thanks for sharing.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad you finally got it sorted out.

[@skaraborgcraft]

@@BundyBearsShed Just an update. Tractor stopped running. Took the pump apart again, have to ask, have you ever seen a sheared rotor head shaft? What would cause that, it obviously siezed up.

[@simontall5134]

Brilliant - taken the "mystery" out of these pumps, thank you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help.

[@clearprop75r]

OUTSTANDING Lance. Followed along with my pump that had been sitting 13 years. now it works like a charm! $18 for the kit ! Beat the dickens out of $450 for a shop rebuild!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well worth the effort

[@curtisdunham2074]

Thank you so much for showing the reassembly of the top cover, I've been trying to get the spring on with a pair of needle nose pliers and had not been successful. Now I know to connect the spring inside and then put the top on! Edit: I just finished this job on my AD4-203 Perkins motor, the only thing I would add is to make sure the stopper nipple on the bottom side is facing the motor block when you put back on. Mine was not and I could not get the pump to push fuel at all. Took the top back off and fixed the problem, also the spring should move like Bundy shows in the video, if it is not hooked up properly both will move freely from each other (the throttle and stopper) I had to use the hand pump to push fuel back into the injection pump, that is what the bleed screws are for, once I did this it was very easy to get the motor to fire and run again. Thank you so much to Bundy Bears Shed channel for this and his other videos. I love that he uses regular hand tools and explains everything so well. Would feel comfortable attempting about anything that this man has made a video about.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Curtis, Seems like you are on top of it .

[@chriscoopes4043]

Hello Lance, London calling again, well still somewhere in rural England actually - tractor country. You've still got it - the ability to pass on knowledge succinctly whilst keeping it interesting. Really enjoying your MF135 series - keep on videoing mate. Until next time ....

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Chris, Glad you enjoy it.

[@ArifArif-pv2sn]

Ll

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

Thanks to videos like this one I was able to tackle my pump overhaul. Not without problems however but I do think I learned something that might be helpful to others as well. I believe I had a serious air lock after disassembly and just could not get it to pressurize fuel at all. I disassembled again and filled the fuel passages in the rotor shaft with wd-40 and then proceeded with suggested procedures. Right away I got fuel spurts when turned over by hand for the first time.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

I now got the engine going but after running for 5-10 minutes it wants to race to 2000 rpm. I haven't allowed it to run like that but for a moment at a time. For the first 5-10 minutes the low idle was smooth but about 150 rpm lower than it should be. What the heck now?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Sticky metering valve possibly.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

@@BundyBearsShed that is what I would expect it to act like if the needle valve is at fault. The needle valve operated flawlessly the several times I had it apart and back together, however I guess anything is possible. I was wondering if the auto advance mechanism can cause such issues?

[@jonny6122]

Thanks so much for this video! I rebuilt the CAV pump on my 1960 International B275 after watching and it works great. I especially like the bench test of the pump and shut down mechanism. I was concerned about it running away and that eased my worries.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great to hear! Glad it helped.

[@bahramsedighi]

Thank you so much, it helped me to fix my leaking fuel pump specially from min 36 to 42 which explained how to test every parts are installed correctly. Appreciate your time and efforts and your descriptive video.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@paulricelli5520]

🔥🔥🔥Outstanding. Fixed my backhoe from your great videos. A billion thanks. 👍👍👍

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help

[@vtbgiraud]

Thanks Lance, I owe you a beer or three, mate. Only problem I had is that my pump, MF50A backhoe, is reverse rotation to yours. Had to pull HP pump apart to free small pistons and put roller in backwards, realized this at 3AM lying in bed. corrected this and runs like a charm. If I never get back downunder, I will have to look you up, but Queensland is too bloody hot for me. Vic, Canada

[@BundyBearsShed]

Sounds good, i do the think in bed thing too.

[@CS_247]

Just done mine with your help, she runs like a top now! Thanks mate! Off to the pub with some of me savings, we'll have a Bundies for you! 👍🏼

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad I could help, have a beer or 10 for me, lol.

[@ElementofKindness]

This definitely gives me the confidence to give a go at it, and dig into my pump. Guessing either that little screen, or more likely, stuck pistons, from the pump sitting for nearly three years while I was rebuilding the engine.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Stuck pistons is common but easy to remedy.

[@charleshart6992]

Another great video - I thought you put the spring in the wrong hole, but you couldn't hear me talking to the screen LOL.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Charles, The missus says I dont listen, lol. , I did have it wrong and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@philprickett3168]

Hi Lance. Thank you for a great instructional vid. I picked up a kit from your site and with the help of your instructions was able to fit up the pump. Looks great atm. Thanks again. Phil

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@joevanbommel9490]

I find putting the regulator valve together before installing cover on pump much easier. Everything slides in horizontally. Good video . Thanks.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I do that at times now as well.

[@dustinkeith7641]

Thanks for the videos, I got my injector pump back running on my NH L783 thanks to you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good news right there.

[@Stevie-P123]

Exactly what I was thinking. "Filter upside down." 😄👍 Great stuff. Appreciate it.!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help!

[@Stevie-P123]

@@BundyBearsShed in the process of rebuilding a similar pump for a colleague , your videos have helped no end and compelling to watch. Cheers.

[@poulgammelgaard8868]

Another great video. Excellent filmed and explained. Thank you from Denmark.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Poul.

[@duncanrose3891]

Great video Lance. Keep up the good work 👍

[@patmowatt2130]

I've just had one of these start leaking on my 1985 Universal UTB 640 tractor. I'm in Canada- wish you lived a little closer and I'd gladly pay you to rebuild it! Still, great video, thanks for the demonstration.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Pat, They are not that hard to do but everyone has different comfort levels with this sort of thein.

[@patmowatt2130]

@@BundyBearsShed After watching your video, I had a closer look at mine and saw that there were two leaks, one at the lower bleed screw which I fixed with a copper ring (didn't have a steel one). The other leak is at the top of the throttle shaft and this is the bad one- it appears that the shaft tunnel itself might be worn badly enough that the o-rings below might not seal it when replaced. So I managed to find a rebuild kit on ebay that comes with the top cover, and thanks to your video, I know I can try the repair without removing the pump from the tractor. The pump itself works fine, so I'm not going to go any deeper than that. I don't know if you guys have many of these UTB tractors in Australia (they are a Fiat clone, as are White and Long), but I'd love to see any videos you might have dealing with them. Again, thanks for the great work.

[@robertmintz63]

I could watch your vids just to hear the good country music you play ! And thanks for not playing it during the instructions , as I have seen some doing .

[@BundyBearsShed]

Im too busy talking and dropping things, lol.

[@denniskennedy6579]

Really good instructions, put out in layman's terms.( simple)

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@bubulegros01]

Very good and better information for my pump, thank you

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are welcome

[@rodneyyeomans5632]

another awesome video Lance ,thanks so much for all the information much appreciated

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Rodney.

[@ingvarmagnusson5993]

Thank you for this istructive video, it realy helpt me out,since I´m haveing a -71 135 under restauration, so once againe, thanks a lot!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it could help.

[@hansjurgenschwartz3578]

Ha, after your reassembly you adjusted the mark to the left flange. Glad to see at 20.55. 😜👍

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I get busy filming and pick up things when watching the first filming and fix things. Filming the process makes a couple of hour job into an all dayer.

[@xeroxene]

Phew! I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed this. I had to go back to the previous episode and double check. Nicely spotted.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Re-installed the pump today. Starts and runs like a champ and no leaks!! Used the new end cap too. I didn't get yours because you don't ship to Canada; you should fix that :) Just so you know, I generally do things two or three times... good practice, I guess. Again, thanks for the videos Lance. I never would have tackled this job without them. My 135 is a '67 six speed as well, so I'm always watching your videos.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great to hear!

[@waynegotthardt3233]

I caught that too Should be in the hole closest to the pivot. "Just can't get good help these days" LOL

[@BundyBearsShed]

Nup Im thinking of sacking myself, lol.

[@incubatork]

Another great tutorial Lance, now to wait to test and see if you did it right, 😂😂😂

[@BundyBearsShed]

Have faith, lol.

[@terrysmith4651]

Thank You so much for making this video I had the inlet valves all out of sequence.....you saved me $$$$

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@hirenyadav6288]

CAV very best pump Old is gold

[@BundyBearsShed]

Popular pumps.

[@WaterhouseForde]

Another great video Lance! I got to get me one of those bead blasters!

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Gordon, They certainly make the job easier with a very nice finish.

[@padraicmcgowan8772]

Thanks i was messing with a pump off a wee 35x all day and getting nowhere till I watched your video now shes sucking diesel i owe you a pint

[@BundyBearsShed]

Im looking forward to that.

[@mikaellarsson5109]

Thanks for the video!! The information was a great help Greetings from Sweden 👌

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Mikael.

[@carlcarlson180]

My big problem was the crap in my tank. After I replaced the tank problem fixed. Fuel filters could not keep crap out of pump. Hope this helps

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Carl.

[@rpalaniz]

Thank you for your time sir!! great Video!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou, I hope it was of some help.

[@leonardhubenak8764]

Thank you from texas

[@BundyBearsShed]

Our pleasure!

[@Milan.1511]

Greetings from Serbia!

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day MilanG

[@Milan.1511]

@@BundyBearsShed Mr. Lance, is this pump needed Test Bench, if everything gets back to your place like you did?

[@incubatork]

for putting springs and stuff down into deep holes i have often had to put the springs onto a thin long screwdriver, put the screwdeiver in the hole then drop the spring in, they can only go in to place as the screwdriver shaft acts as a guide.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Derek, Yes I have done the same but I need to de magnetize them at the moment. I think the magnetic parts trays transfer some of their magnetism when a screw driver rests on them.

[@steveo3037]

Hi Lance ,on your drawing on the lever, the spring is in the hole closest the shaft, not the middle one

[@ccga3359]

Steve is correct, also I don't recall you tightening down the cover studs and locking tabs for them.

[@georgehunter3187]

Yup, eagle eyes!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well spotted, I did and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I did do the tabe and one gave me some strife so I shortened the video around there as I was fiddling a bit too much.

[@sibusisoshumane8973]

G day Lance, thanks very much for the training. Could you please explain the 20 | 24 ° 1. Are these degrees printed on the back of the flywheel? 2. Lastly does all messy ferguson tractors have the plug where you see these timing degrees (e.g. 20|24)?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes on the flywheel and most early Perkins engines do of this era.

[@OlaGbolahan]

​ @Bundy Bears Shed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

[@BundyBearsShed]

some times it ia hard to get the air out but bleeding on the tractor will get it done, I have even forced air through to pressurise the pump a bit. If it wont start start with a petrol rag or ether and once going the come good straight away.

[@OlaGbolahan]

@@BundyBearsShed so it wouldn't be something else stuck inside. You believe it's air in the pump? Thank you again for your help and great videos.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I ordered the end cap, with the steel insert, the original on was aluminum no steel insert, and was really rough looking, could this cause low fuel pressure, I have no pressure coming from the pump to the injectors, the fuel just drips out of the lines. I would think it should spray somewhat hard.

[@BundyBearsShed]

That may cause low pressure of the inlet only probably not your problem.

[@ShainAndrews]

Was going to make this comment on your disassembly, but thought it would make more sense here. 8:10 Instead of marking the housing on back side of the circle clip make your scribe on the other side. 10:08 Scribe a line on the the square end of the clip where your finger is. Start the scribe on the clip face, and continue onto the housing. It will be more accurate, and you can see it while reassembling.

[@mat7883]

Great video! Cheers from Tassie ;)

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks for watching

[@rainermuehlberger6391]

what a great video...it is tremendous helpful...bought an MF65 which is now over 60 years old...the Pump was filled with ugly slimeallover...it could not work anymore. Now I have 2 questions on reassembly: 1. where does that little steel ball fit to? 2. the carrier for the pump blades ( with that crosswise slots in it) turned loose and off...if I fit back an turn to screw on it tightens....but too much...so much that the whole turning shaft thightens and locks the turning motion...what do I need to do to avoid locking the nice turning? thanks for your comments. best regards Rainer from Germany/ Lake of Constance

[@BundyBearsShed]

Little ball goes into the advance underneath if it has one, they are often not needed. The end plate with the vanes, you may need to sand the vales down a little to give clearance on the flat edges.

[@rainermuehlberger6391]

@@BundyBearsShed thank you a Lot...for your great Video and your helpful comments...my MF65 runs now very well...thank you so much 😊

[@lonnieblackwell9215]

Lance, your spring is in the wrong hole. It was the one closest to the pivot hole. Good video very informative

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are correct I noticed it while editing and fixed it I also put a note in the description.

[@blueeyedfriend9886]

On your video MF135 Restoration #14 Dismantling the Injection Pump at 14:27 the spring was in the first hole from the shaft. At 32:20 in this video, on your drawing I believe you confused the circle for the shaft as one of the holes the spring goes in. I'm sure you've figured that out by now, as I'm very late to this party. Thanks for the videos!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes you are correct but I mentioned it in the description. I changed it when I noticed it in editing and the tractor runs well.

[@kathyparker7140]

So much information you have

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou.

[@Rain2bird]

Great video but you missed on approx. 20 minutes the alignement of the top bracket (clip) with the lower one. You can see on the video that the rollers are not fitted properly. But any way very big help for these pumps

[@BundyBearsShed]

When videoing I do some things a few times trying to keep focus etc. Pump runs great on the 135.

[@michaellyons7993]

Hi Lance, great work, very helpful videos, I am currently resealing my pump on a mf 65, as it was leaking around the head, I also have a erratic idle, is there anything I can look out for while I have it stripped down, I had hoped someone had placed the governor spring was in the wrong position, but not so, also have a heavy diesel knock on acceleration

[@BundyBearsShed]

No not that I can send you to. Look at my web site www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au on the technical tab there is a free pump manual download that might help you .

[@darrenblattner2508]

Just like that, nothing to it. Maybe you should have been a shop teacher, then again, it seems you are. Another good one Lance.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Darren, Yes it seems people like to listen to a bloke in the shed fixing his tractors. I would have never thought it years ago.

[@marcpottle2988]

Hi Lance, Surely appreciate your videos. Have a strong mechanical aptitude and have now disassembled and reassembled this pump 5 times without getting pressure enough to squirt through the banjo bolt valves. Pushed a pin punch into each banjo bolt and the spring pressure is quite stout but the piston moves fine. Have installed new veins, rotor, cover (with steel insert) and took the entire head apart, spraying carburetor cleaner through all the tiny holes noting the escape. Every printed diagram has been gone through and each component is in the correct order. NO PRESSURE! Will need pressure to open the injectors as well. Is there some end play in the head that I am missing? ...... Now on some foot notes for you and the mass crowd: The drive for the veins is right hand thread (lefty loosy) counter clockwise loose..... 2nd: The part that regulates the fuel amount (where the two screws go in to hold the rollers and all that) can only go on one way. The master daug lines up even if it is flipped over, BUT the two bolt holes are NOT 180 degrees apart and it will not bolt up. Just for those who lost track of 'witness' marks. This pump is very simple and I still can't get pressure. Now without the banjo bolts it squirts fine, as soon as I put it together it just oozes out! I just cant imagine what it could be. I adjusted the fuel amount wide open, still no pressure. Is there a check valve I'm missing? Ford 555 Backhoe. This pump has been taken apart previously by some others and returned to my poor neighbor in not so good condition. I am now making an attempt to repair it. Everything in your video is in that pump. Everything in the diagram is in that pump! I put straight banjo bolts (without valves) and there is not enough pressure to open the injectors Ie; 120 to 200 psi is needed before they will spray! Put an adapter in a drill and spun the pump to no avail! Yes, the stopper and metering valve are correct. Governor spring is in correct #7 by the chart. ..........HELP! .....................PLEASE

[@BundyBearsShed]

When testing check your inlet pressure is good as some 3 cylinders had no lift pump. It is also possible the head is just worn out, they did wear over time and hard starting is a sign of a worn head. It seems like you are onto the small things ok but check the plungers are not worn. The plungers are what builds the pressure but if that is getting lost somewhere you need to find that.

[@johnkinnane547]

Good one Lance......John

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks John.

[@carlcarlson180]

That is a great instruction video 😀

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad you think so!

[@HZ--ic6hn]

Wsk poznan spare parts. I used delphi parts for repairing dpa pump for 4-248 engine. But Your pump needs some calibrations. Such as maximum minimum fuel consumption or min max governor lever distance. Also also also You should add a spring to connect stop lever and throttle lever

[@BundyBearsShed]

If you keep the same setting it is all good to go.

[@giemme4492]

Hi Lance, watching and watching again these videos to take confidence on this resealing I am planning to do on my CAV DPA. So, my CAV DPA pump has the automatic adjacent device at the bottom. Since this device has a round headed pin screwed on the cam rings that makes it rotate, I guess I won’t find any shadow mark on the cam the cross check it lines properly to the squared circlip end. Isn’t it? Thanks again for your instructive videos!!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

No you cant really go wrong with these.

[@giemme4492]

@@BundyBearsShed I see, my concern is that, being my cam ring rotated by the autoadvance device, it misses the shadow mark of the circlip as it is not stationary against it. Thank you a lot Lance!

[@adrianheis8355]

Hola una consulta que pasa si la bomba inyectora tiene mucha presión

[@BundyBearsShed]

They cant have too much pressure.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Oh BTW my original end cap has the pin on the left side and my new one has it on the right side, that means the vane ring would be 180 degrees out, so will that make a difference?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it can be changed over.

[@mickyoungs4610]

Hi Lance, .MFtractor ran out of fuel, and a load of crap entered into pump. Cleand all systems out, new lift pump, new filter, had end of pump cleaned rotor blades, nice and free.Had top of pump checked everything,nothing wrong, but still no delivery out of pump when we try to start tractor, Any ideas regards Mick over in England.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Check the filter under the inlet fitting and pop the top off and see if the metering valve is still free.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Also I don't understand where the "shuttle" and the "plunger" is, and the rollers are on the top of the pump correct?, I really don't know much about this tractor that I'm working on. it is a 1992 MF 30 industrial backhoe and loader, we thought it was a 65 model, it has a 4 cylinder engine. hasnt ran since 2005. Also the metering valve was cleaned when I rebuilt the injector pump. Is there any chance of the end cap valve bad, it was pretty rough and pitted where the veins run against.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Go th the videos 14 and 15 again I explain it all in there.

[@mattirwin440]

Thanks for video I resealed my 1080 Massy. After I put pump back on tractor it is running higher RPM at idle and throttling up . Took top back off to check spring location was in same holes came out of checked governor looks like in flats. Any suggestion what i did wrong. I turned throttle set screws for know not to run to fast and achieve low idle speed.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Usually it is the springs or the hook rod inside not hooked up correctly.

[@mattirwin440]

@@BundyBearsShed thanks will take top back off and check it out you make it look so easy on video.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Hello again. I studied the issue further and discovered that it wasn't the steel insert that was too thick. It was that the machined slot in the end cap that the insert fits into had a high spot in the middle. The insert would teeter back and forth from the center in all quadrants. I figured that the high spot must have been pushing the insert into the shaft. So, I got the dremmel and sanded down the center of the slot making the surface as level as I could. Now the insert fits much better and is flush with the outer rim of the slot. I was careful not to touch the outer part of the surface so the insert sits in level. I installed the end cap again and the pump turns freely. So, as long as the newly sanded surface doesn't affect the fuel flow, I should be golden. What do you think?

[@BundyBearsShed]

It should be ok I would thing

[@tarasbulba2109]

Hi. I have disassembled, cleaned internally, put toric joints, retainers, vanes and all new end plate. I have mounted it again without problems, but by turning it manually to prime it with diesel and see if it works, I notice that it goes a little hard and goes like jerks. Can it be normal?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it is as the rollers come up to the cam to push the plunger in it feels notchy .

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I have a MF 200 Massey Ferguson model 65 tractor. I previously watched this video and went through my CAV injector pump step by step with you, although i didn't mess with the rollers. so basically where do i get a complete rebuild kit, cam ring, and everything i need to go back through it again. I'm not getting fuel up to the injectors. i also replaced all the fuel filters and done a oil change on it. I took on this job on the tractor to help out a friend, the tractor was torn apart by someone else and i was able to get it back together, it only runs on starting fluid. it will not run without using starting fluid. i am thinking i have a timing issue, i get fuel to the injection pump but it is not pushing fuel up to the injectors. Do you have any suggestions for me Bundy??

[@BundyBearsShed]

Over time the plungers under the rollers can get gummed up and not move so I would check them as the same pair of rollers are used for each cylinder. also check the metering valve is very free and the little shuttle valve in the end plate under the inlet pipe is free to move under its own weight.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I don't understand where the shuttle and the rollers valve is, I really don't know much about this tractor I'm working on. Also the metering valve was cleaned when I rebuilt the injector pump. Is there any chance of the valve at the end of the injector pump bad, it was pretty rough and pitted where the veins run against.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I ordered the end cap, with the steel insert, the original on was aluminum no steel insert, and was really rough looking, could this cause low fuel pressure, I have no pressure coming from the pump to the injectors, the fuel just drips out of the lines. I would think it should spray somewhat hard.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Also the Massey Ferguson Tractor is a 1992, backhoe and front loader, with a 4 cylinder engine. It hasn't ran since 2005. We found the engine cover and it is not a MF 65 it has MF 30 on it. SER# 9A 65 77

[@muratcetin85]

@Bundy Bears Shed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.

[@BundyBearsShed]

No the pump will need to be replaced or the head of the pump at least.

[@robertmintz63]

In this video you line up the edge of the little notch in the black plate with the line on the housing of the roller housing, but in the 2 part video disassembly / reassemble you have that little notch centered on the line. The difference would be the amount of fuel delivery, ? Or is there another reason ? Also unless l am mistaken your prognosis of which way to move this black plate for more fuel , disagrees with the other video I am glad to see you using a rag between pliers & top plate. That wee line around the back you talk about , is it not around about where you said the timing mark (G) should be ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Not the edge of the notch the letter on the head.

[@surkhabsingh347]

Good information sir.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou.

[@chrisscott1547]

Thank you Lance for another very instructional video. Is there any reference material anywhere regarding symptoms versus likely failed parts? Like diesel into oil it's likely these parts, or if poor performance it's likely those parts?

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Chris, Diesel into the sump is usually the front pump seal but it can be a faulty fuel lift pump too.

[@chrisscott1547]

@@BundyBearsShed I think my Ford 3910 is gravity feed, so that narrows it down - thanks. Love your videos!

[@xeroxene]

47:15 The fibre washer I got in the seal kit didn't fit at all, (too small ID) and ended up splitting. Can I just use any fibre washer the same size? Or is it made out of something special?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Any washer will do.

[@dtnicholls1]

Hey mate, don't know if you caught it but that little line next to the rollers lined up on the other side of the gap in the retaining plate when you were pulling it apart.

[@BundyBearsShed]

That is just a filming thing, the tractor is up and running well. to film things there is a few takes at times.

[@peterspong]

Ace video! Thank you. I’ve just finished and put it all back on a MF 148. Idles perfectly but when i advance the throttle the revs only increase slightly and she begins to hunt badly. Where’ve I gone wrong?!🤦‍♂️

[@BundyBearsShed]

Springs under the top cover in the wrong place.

[@Ariel1526]

Hi, thanks for the clip! I did as you showed, I mounted the pump to the tractor (Ford 3610, year 1982), but the tractor does not move :( If I put some carburetor spray in the air filter, the tractor starts and everything is fine, that is, the pump works, but to start, the tractor fails to start. What did I do wrong?

[@BundyBearsShed]

It sounds like the pump head is worn

[@Ariel1526]

@@BundyBearsShed what can we do? Is the pump head the part that connects to the timing wheel or to the auxiliary pump? But why is the difficulty only in driving? After the paddle it works great.

[@williamjindra6652]

My timing mark on the pump is about a quarter of an inch up from the mark on the keys I Tractor starts like a dream runs like a dream but the thing is leaking so I just got my sparex kit should i leave it where it is also the timing on the fly wheel I see no marks should I just scribe a mark there for reference

[@BundyBearsShed]

Scribe for reference some times the circlip was not lined up.

[@BuckHunterNb]

Can you put a mf 135 perkins diesel injection pump onto a 35X as long as the governor spring holes are changed to match the spec of the 35X which is number 2. Middle hole on lever and top hole on governor plate? Sparex has the same hydraulic head part number as replacement for the A3.152 and the AD3.152. Makes me wonder if the pumps are interchangeable with governor spring hole changes. I have a new pump for the MF 135 that I could use on my 1964 35X. Perkins manual says to go with 22 degrees BTDC for pump LW58/600/2/2390 for A3.152 diesel another manual says to use 20 degrees BTDC for pump 3230010 which is my old pump on my 1964X. But when I checked the timing it was installed at 24 degrees (middle line on the flywheel in the inspection hole and the E was lined up on the pump with the flat edge of the circlip.. Now I'm confused as the timing cover is still on and I cannot see if the pump drive gear is lined up with the big idler wheel. To make matters worse the scribe line on the pump flange and timing case do not exist but the pump is mounted dead centre of the slots on the flange. 24 degrees for my pump seems high. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks and wicked good video.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I would fit the pump no worries, and not change the spring holes , leave them alone. Set timing at 22 deg and see how it runs, the pump may have been fitted by someone that didnt know to check the timing.

[@BuckHunterNb]

The new pump has the circlip in backwards. The rounded end is on top and the flat square end on the bottom. My timing case has no scribe mark to line up and the pump has one 1/4 inch down from centre of the point on the flange. I took the timing cover off and all the gears line up as per the dots and line for TDC on compression stroke for piston 1 and pulley keyway at 12 o'clock. So the timing is on. The pump is brand new old stock from the eighties I can't get fuel up to the injector pipes when whirl6the engine after intensively bleeding the air before hand.

[@jasone7687]

Hi Lance. Great video. I watched several times and followed along. After my reseal tractor was very difficult to start and would not go above an idle even at wide open. Even after bleeding for air multiple times. With a shot of ether it will rev and run great. You can rev up and down with the throttle but if if you let it idle down it will not rev back up. Any ideas. I have double checked everything and all the springs are in the proper holes and everything where the filter screen goes is also in correct order. I also did not remove the basket or circlip when doing the reseal as I didn’t see it necessary for my application. Please help if you can. Thanks again. If you need any more info please let me know.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I would have a good look at the little shuttle valve in the pump end cap to see it is pressurising the pump properly. With it reving up and down I would think the metering valve is moving but it does sound like a spring in the wrong place.

[@jasone7687]

@@BundyBearsShed the metering valve does move freely. The tractor ran great prior to doing the seals it was just leaky. I did check the end cap and verified everything is in the correct order from the videos. I am truly stumped. Thank you for your reply.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

So Bundy i think I have a gas engine instead of a diesel, it is a 4 cylinder 1992 MF 30 industrial loader and backhoe. It will not run on diesel. I have good fuel pressure going into the injectors it just will not run, although it will run on starting fluid. How do I know whether it is diesel or gas, the tractor was torn apart and there was no fuel in the tank or the engine, it hasn't ran since 2005, my friend and I thought all backhoes and front loaders were diesel, I sure hope I didn't damage the engine if it is gas and not diesel.

[@BundyBearsShed]

If it has injectors it is a diesel for sure.

[@robertmintz63]

Even when i crank mine over with the starter l don’t get that much fuel, Thanks for the video

[@BundyBearsShed]

It might just bleed out better with time.

[@wrknonitnow8711]

Just found you on here about a week ago...love your videos on injector pumps...do you know of any books i could order that would help me to learn more about it ...

[@BundyBearsShed]

look at my web site www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au on the technical tab there is a free pump manual download.

[@averillcook1545]

hello I have a A3-152 motor that runs great but I cannot get it to run at high RPM . the motor came off a generator . throttle linkage is good but it only runs at a fixed speed and i cannot get it to rev up. It has a apparatus that can have a ground and a positive hooked to it but after i took it off there does not seem to have any movement when I energize it with a ground and hot lead Any thoughts would be helpful thanks

[@BundyBearsShed]

The throttle lever had a manual stop on the outside, it is usually adjustable by backing the screws out. That may be worth a go. The apparatus you speak of may be a watch dog solenoid that shuts the engine down if there is a problem when it was on the generator. Generators have fixed revs often to keep the supply even.

[@averillcook1545]

@@BundyBearsShed yes understood ... I tried backing off the screw you talk about with no luck.. thinking I need to take the pump off and replace it with the one that was on the original motor. your response is much appreciated thank you

[@averillcook1545]

Changed the pump Fixed the problem Thank you

[@billmacdonald1533]

Hello Lance, I've been busy resealing my injector pump; thanks so much for the videos!! But, I ran into an issue that I'm wondering if you've seen before. I bought a new end cap since the original was worn and it doesn't want to fit. When I tighten the end cap on, I can't turn the pump. It seems to me that the steel insert is too thick and it's hitting the end of the shaft before the bolts are fully tight. If I try backing off the bolts slightly, I can turn the pump but the o-ring leaks. This would be no good anyway because how do you keep them from coming out of they're not tight. Have you seen this before? Is it possible to sand down the steel insert plate thickness by a couple of thousands? Or, should I just return it. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I have seen the blades in the end too wide and cause a similar problem.

[@MyShoelessjoe]

Hi lance. Great videos I am in the process of installing my cam ring. But I don’t have any shadows on mine.. does the arrow on the cam ring always face the back view of the pump. Or can the arrow go against the circlip. The very faint shadow I have is leading me that way..cheers

[@BundyBearsShed]

Arrow is pump rotation

[@billmacdonald1533]

Not so golden now. Installed the pump on the tractor and it won't start. It's getting fuel at the injectors. I even put the old end cap back on and still won't start; turns over good but not even trying to start. I can't see how I could have messed up the timing. I've had the pump off before for painting and started right up on install. BTW- I didn't mess with the insides of the pump at all except resealing. Any ideas?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Is the metering valve working. I have had the odd one that takes a lot of bleeding but when you get them running they are fine.

[@randysweat8470]

On a cav pump can you remove the back iend without removine the pump from the motor ?Mine is leaking where the the vane end goes into the main body.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes you can but they are usually easy to remove and replace.

[@xeroxene]

Hi Lance, regarding the Incredibly Important Circlip... What does it actually do? Is it just a timing reference mark or does it have a physical function?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The circlip gives the pump head a solid shoulder to go up against, and as a timing reference point. There is a small shoulder in the housing for the circlip to go up against.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

what happens if the cam ring is installed backwards?

[@BundyBearsShed]

There is a directional arrow, visit video 14 and 15.

[@williamjindra6652]

Do the metal washers pump head come with the kit on the banjo fitting ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes there would be 12 as the kit does right up to the 6 cylinder pumps.

[@OlaGbolahan]

Dont think my seal kit came with the fiber washer you put on the plunger. Is it critical? Or do I need to get a new seal kit?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The gasket is just paper thin could you possibly make one?

[@OlaGbolahan]

@@BundyBearsShed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

[@robertglover1271]

Still I ask when you are on the other side \\ thats my question there must be some way that you line up by some other way ?? but again thanks for a very good series of videos

[@BundyBearsShed]

you can use an injector tester to pump up no 1 until the pump locks if you have an injector tester available.

[@asgardgeoff]

How did you get the CAV placard so clean and tidy???

[@BundyBearsShed]

I was just lucky it had a nice plate on it.