Burnt Wood Finish - Shou Sugi Ban - End to End Tutorial

Looking for the right burnt wood finish? Has Shou Sugi Ban Japanese wood burning technique intrigued you, but you weren't quite sure how to do it end to end? In this video, I show you that it's not particularly hard to do. Based on previous video comments, I show show you a full end to end burn and finish of the wood on this Japanese Yakisugi technique.
You'll need a torch along the lines of this one:
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Also a wire brush to remove some of the surface burn:
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Here are the finishes I used in the video:
Danish Oil - amzn.to/3YyszY7
Linseed Oil - amzn.to/450EiBg
Poly Spray - amzn.to/3YMKJG1
I use this method for creating stylish and unique doors for my tiny houses, but regardless of what you create, this method may be something to try out.
I like having good audio on my videos, therefore I use:
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I like having good video quality too, therefore I use:
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I also like my videos optimized for best discovery on KZbin, therefore I use:
morningfa.me/invite/tinyindus...
(Use this link to get a free month!)
If this was helpful, then please consider subscribing for more content like this.
(Affiliate links above)
#shuosugiban
#tinyindustrial
#diy

[@user-ze5kr6pn6h]

Clear, concise presentation. All, how to videos, should be like that. Congratulations.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks you. That's nice of you to put that into a comment. I try to get better with every video. I don't always succeed. I guess this time I did.

[@thumper823]

Great video....very helpful...thank you!!

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. Any project you have in mind of doing with this process?

[@loganconklin2125]

Great video thank you

[@TinyIndustrial]

Glad you enjoyed it. You doing a project involving this technique?

[@loganconklin2125]

@TinyIndustrial Yes I am. I'm building a bourbon shelf out of pallet wood and finishing it using this technique

[@TinyIndustrial]

That will look good. How did it turn out? Happy with the result?

[@richardpetrovic8941]

I use linseed oil mixed with honeybee wax. For wooden furniture, doors and so. Only, have to be wood, without any surface paint.

[@TinyIndustrial]

That's interesting. I'm sure that works great.

[@RicardoFREITASMarques]

Muito bom. Obrigado por compartilhar tua experiência e conhecimento.

[@paultrigger3798]

Great!

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks!

[@normality3848]

I’m just finishing a herringbone floor 22mm oak, with a 2 deep staggered brick bond edging in the same blocks that I’ve burnt, sanded and oiled. Only lightly sanded after a medium burn and wax oiled. It’s much better and far more aesthetically pleasing than an ebony stain. The tiled effect from the scorched edges is stunning even if I do say so myself. 😎

[@TinyIndustrial]

Oh good. Love hearing that people are doing these projects. It's such a cool method to make wood look spectacular as you have discovered.

[@sawdustadikt979]

Great video, this is a very nuanced subject that deserves experimentation. I’m loving all the comments, I’d like to add to the conversation. I’ve messed around with this quite a bit, especially for exterior applications. I have mainly experimented with deep char. I plan to do more experimenting, however in an exterior application on dug fir with deep char is to dilute the linseed oil. I also recommend using a garden pump sprayer so that on the first coat or two you don’t blow off the char, using any wiping method ruins the char texture. First coat I’d do 40%lso to mineral spirits and flood it, it will the wood will rapidly pull the resin in, 2nd coat 60% linseed oil to minsprt, 3rd coat 75%linseed oil to mineral spirits and last full linseed oil. It’s all about getting the char and the wood fibers to pull in the the resin, the resin being the linseed oil. I tried this on some garden beds, dug fir with deep char and undiluted linseed oil, the char popped off on year three into year four. I rebuilt them, did this step progress and they are on year 4 in coastal New England weather and holding strong so far.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks for that comment and for adding to the community aspect of these videos. Really appreciate your help sharing that. Love the sprayer idea and the dilution aspect.

[@yatakadai]

Thank you for commenting on your method, I was looking to see if someone had used shousugi ban for outdoor beds and was wondering how to finish it. Do you think the mineral spirit dilution would be safe if I plan to grow vegetables in my garden beds? I am trying to find the safest options but it's been difficult

[@sawdustadikt979]

@@yatakadai that was my intention when I had built them in the first place. I plan to do a soil test before growing food in the beds so my experiment is currently on going. If I had to do it again, I would build them in the fall going into winter, so the finish would be able to off gas or dissipate and fill with soil in the spring. Instead of getting excited and filling them with soil so I can go onto the next project. We had planned to just grow flowers and what not in the soil we had for a few years as to let whatever pesticides and fertilizers in that soil dissipate. I also would do a gravel barrier going along the wood to keep the soil off the wood, allow it to stay drier by breathing. If, the mineral spirits are leaching into the soil, both letting the finish cure for a season and the gravel barrier might be a solution, all theoretical at the moment.

[@kitionekava]

Thanks for those techniques...somefhing i would take back to my village and try and apply them to the way we build our house there.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Well I hope that this becomes a big hit in your village. Where are you located? What would you use this technique for?

[@rhampton47]

You answered EVERY question I had. Wish I had wayched this BEFORE I started, still great beginning to end process! Love this. Thank you!!!

[@TinyIndustrial]

Excellent. I appreciate the feedback. Always trying to offer up good content. I'm glad it was helpful for you. What's the project you are looking to tackle with this?

[@stanhutchins4365]

Light burn I like the best, shows more of the original wood mixed with the burnt

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks for adding a vote in the light burn column.

[@randykane474]

Interesting. My first video on the issue.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks. It's a process that once you do a project or two with it, it gets to be a go to method for preserving wood and the look of it will likely grow on you. What's a project you could envision doing for this?

[@victorbconley6891]

I also like using boiled linseed, but instead of the heavy brushing, I've found a light sanding is more rewarding to expose the grain.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Fair enough. Yes, it's really subjective. Everyone will have a personal preference. What's your project that you are doing with this?

[@grahamfletcher5320]

You're just answered my question on your Q&A...

[@TinyIndustrial]

Happy that it was helpful. What's your project?

[@grahamfletcher5320]

@@TinyIndustrial I'm cladding an porch, I was going to used Siberian larch but I really like the idea of shou sugi ban,my question that you answered was should I burn the wood all round as its untreated and will be used outside in the British climate?

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@grahamfletcher5320 I see. Yup, burn all surfaces. Has a number of benefits, albeit a bit more work. I would also still apply a liberal coat of linseed oil for added longevity and protection. Good luck with the project!

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@grahamfletcher5320 I see. Ok, well I hope that the project turns out great. Always be safe working with fire! That's my PSA for the day. :)

[@christophehorguelin7044]

Great test! Could I do a deck with this method, you think?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Definitely. I wouldn't suggest doing it to an existing deck, but if you are redoing a deck, yes, burn the planks on all sides, brush them and treat them with some oil and that should do it. Avoids all that nasty pressure treated wood or that Trex plasticky stuff (don't like it...do you?).

[@dw3992]

This looks great. I prefer the medium & dark. W.ill have to consider this for our new custom gates we just had made. TY for this video.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yup, medium is my go to. Preserves the grain the best IMHO. Are you going to post any video of your gate project?

[@dw3992]

@@TinyIndustrial No, we won't do a video. Our carpenter already made the gates & they're beautiful. Is it too late to do this procedure since not every side of each piece of wood can be burnt? TY!

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@dw3992 Ahh. I see. Something to keep in your back pocket for the next project!

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@dw3992 I see. Well, definitely make sure you don't set the fence on fire and keep water an extinguishers nearby. If the fence is anywhere near a house, I definitely would not recommend unless you can remove the planks and scorch them separately in a safe way. Not burning all the sides, somewhat defeats the point since the weakest link will be the untreated sections. Not sure I would recommend you move ahead with doing this for those reasons.

[@kengiesbrecht8567]

Definitely medium burn with linseed oil. Great show

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yay! Team medium burn...welcome to the tribe. Do you have a project in mind for this technique?

[@bradgoliphant]

This was so very helpful. I might try this in my next beehive. Question: does this treatment help increase the R value of the wood? Grateful.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Hi. I'd be curious to know/see if bees would be ok with this. Burnt wood might be off-putting to the bees. I'd test it out with leaving some burnt wood by the entrance of the hive to see how the bees react, before building a hive using this process. Let me know how that turns out.

[@bradgoliphant]

@@TinyIndustrial oh I don’t think so. A lot of beekeepers do this.

[@grahamfletcher5320]

Some of our planks have print on them should I sand it off before burning or experiment with the burn on them?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Ah yes...

[@talpalatnyizold]

Hi! What about protection from fire with oil, or without oil? Do you know something about it? Can you make a test maybe? Thanks

[@TinyIndustrial]

Hmmm. Not sure the oil really impacts that too much. I could do a test video. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@talpalatnyizold]

@@TinyIndustrial thanks! I waiting for that video.

[@holmboy28]

Great video! Do I need to burn all sides if i want to install it outside on My house? I Mean, if you dont burn it all way around, will i rotten on the back?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Ideally yes. I reference that towards the end of this video. Did you not see it? There are two main reasons for doing so: 1) protection of the wood 2) warping and twisting of the wood from non-uniform application of heat. What's the project you are doing?

[@mrt3202]

Hey man really great video thanks for sharing. I build saunas in British Columbia and I want to learn how to do this for our custom sauna models. I've reached out to some companies to see if I could hire them to teach me and they've all basically giving me the middle finger, so cheers for making this video. I'm going for a very dark look using Western red cedar. I also have purchased a nylon wheel brush . I guess my question is if I burn it really well, and don't wire brush all of it off will it achieve a darker look? I guess I'll have to experiment hey

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, the longer you burn and the less you brush, the darker the wood will be. That said, you will sacrifice some smoothness in the wood with a longer burn. You are on the right track regarding doing some experiments to get the burn/brush combo right. I'm also willing to provide private lessons on this in exchange for a plane ticket to BC and room n’ board. :)

[@mrt3202]

@@TinyIndustrial hey that's super cool thanks for the offer. I don't know if I have the budget for such a trip though LOL where are you located anyway? Maybe we could do a teams meeting and I could pay you? I kind of want a rough finish I like the look of nylon wheeled brush too that pulls out the grain. I also think adding charcoal to the linseed oil would be a good idea. Might be difficult with the washing process. Maybe a good brushing and collection before and then washing after. I'll have to try it. Thanks for the reply as well

[@jonmichaelroberts]

I believe the only burn that will significantly preserve the wood in this video was the darkest one.

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@jonmichaelroberts That is most likely to be the most long lived. Part of the excercise was to create a certain look and feel. The wood preservation was kind of secondary to the main point of this particular video.

[@joshscott8678]

Do you need to do another top coat over the oil ones

[@TinyIndustrial]

No, not really. You could do an oil refresh after a year or so. Either way, you have massively extended the life of the wood if it is going to be in some way exposed to the elements.

[@grahamfletcher5320]

Can you used a sawn timber as apposed to plained would it get the same effect? Thanks

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, it's really just about how much you burn the wood. The longer you burn a rougher surface, the smoother it will be after you wire brush the debris off. What are you thinking of doing with this technique.

[@grahamfletcher5320]

I have been offers some sawn larch planks,to clad a new porch.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Excellent! Good project.

[@goalachievement]

Question… I have some planters I built in the last few weeks but have not planted in yet. I simply used tung oil on them as a preservative but think it would be great to char the inside of the planters for added preservation. I charred a sample and the oil bubbles up and gets a beautiful even char. Will this still work for the preservation or am I too late? Anyone with experience / advice to preserve planter boxes? Thanks!

[@TinyIndustrial]

No, you're likely not too late. I would generally advise to do it the other way around though (burn and then oil). Planters look great when you use this technique, no?

[@sillythigcosplay]

Would this method work to preserve wood cookies for a pathway? I would assume I would have to do all sides then as well…

[@TinyIndustrial]

Cookies sitting on the ground would last a bit longer using this method, but any wood in contact with the wet ground is going to be problematic. In a desert environment perhaps you would see some increased gains due to limited moisture and that the fact that the bugs will be put off (for a while) by the burnt wood.

[@wingnutbert9685]

Good video, Thanks! ? Does the BLO dry so it's doesn't rub off and how long does that take (say on warm sunny days)? ? Does the BLO last long outdoors, exposed to weather and the sun? ? Have you ever tried applying 2-3 coats of the BLO then lightly running the torch over it to polymerize the oil? Thanks very much!

[@TinyIndustrial]

So the BLO mostly soaks into the wood. Wood is like a sponge for it. On a warm sunny day it happens within 15 to 20 min. Wipe of any excess. Excess is kind of your indicator that you have applied enough. Yes, the BLO lasts for quite a while outdoors. Kind of like teak furniture, the wood will dry out and it helps to reapply every so often. The heating after application is one thing you can do, I also have seen others warm the BLO before applying it. I think that both methods help with the absorption. I'm not a chemist, so I can't really speak to the polymerization of the oil. Anyone else on here know about that?

[@wingnutbert9685]

@@TinyIndustrial Thanks for the reply! I think warming the wood before applying helps too, by opening the pores up. I'd guess there would be some polymerization if you could get it to the right temperature. It's what occurs with "seasoning" a cast iron pan with oil, like flax, etc. It's what makes it stick to the surface and densify given the non-stick result. I'll give the heat treatment of the BLO, once applied on some SPF lumber and let you know if it made a difference.

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@wingnutbert9685 That all makes sense. Would be interested in seeing how that goes!

[@falconillo4744]

try heavy++ burnt and heavy brushed version. brush till white color comes back

[@TinyIndustrial]

Can you point me to a video where someone is doing that?

[@lshoemaker8336]

If you don't like the wood burn, can you sand it out? I bought a table that was done in that technique but I've decided to use it in an area of the house where the burn look doesn't look good. Can I just sand it down?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, the more you sand, the more you will reveal the unburned wood underneath. You can actually sand until you like the shade you are getting. How much you have to sand off depends on the burn depth. Hope that helps?

[@dominicwood3750]

What is the unwire brushed heavy alligator skin like to oil? Is there a danger of the burnt layer coming off during oiling or handling after. Nice video ❤

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, there is. I have had some people reference that they use a paint sprayer to apply coatings to the delicate alligator skin variant and supposedly that works well. I can't confirm that though.

[@sherimatukonis6016]

When using for weatherproofing, not just appearance, how long/how hot do you need to burn? And if you brush it off, arent you removing some of the weather protection?

[@greatitbroke]

No the idea is that you remove the softer cellulose out of the wood. That is what the bugs eat and the part that starts on fire the fastest. Its no problem to sand it.

[@sherimatukonis6016]

@@greatitbroke any idea where I can find the science on this? I'm looking for the weather/water proofing... how much can I send off? How deep to burn, DETAILS lol. I want to use for siding on my house.

[@TinyIndustrial]

It's more of an art than a science. It offers chemical free protection for the wood. How much protection you get depends on all sorts of variables. Type of wood. How green the wood is. How deep the burn is. etc. It's a good thing to experiment with. Will it last as long as a piece of pressure treated wood? Probably not, but it looks a whole lot nicer and and isn't as carcinogenic.

[@evidenceofaliens6991]

how long will this wood last? i was thinking of building a house and doing this with the logs will this make it last 100 years or more?

[@TinyIndustrial]

It will 'extend' the life of the wood. How long depends on a lot of different factors, including, but not limited to, the depth of the burn, post burn application of oils, weather conditions, exposure to sun and water, etc. Hard to say exactly for those reasons. 100 years or more seems like a stretch though. Do this because you 1) like how it looks 2) want to avoid pressure treated lumber chemicals 3) hope to gain a 'bit' more longevity out of the wood used. Make sense?

[@bandhuji8543]

i’ve used teak oil, and then spar varnish as a sealant coat. You could do the same with the polyurethane & either of those oils. nice video tho😊

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yup, any number options will work with this. Or do nothing at all. It's a pretty forgiving process. What have your projects been with this technique?

[@bandhuji8543]

@@TinyIndustrial I've done a workbench that turned out ok, but I also did a small fence with cedar boards that turned out great. I'm looking at a couple of different projects to use this for next including more fencing, accent pieces in our home, and raised beds for the veggie garden. I appreciate you putting the different levels of burning into the video. I'm thinking to go with a more heavy char for the garden beds, but the fencing & accent pieces I'm looking to keep/show off the grain of the wood. I've also been thinking about using tung oil for the waterproofing and being a little less expensive than teak oil.

[@TinyIndustrial]

That's great that you are experimenting with different projects on this. It gets kind of addictive. I found this homemade chair build design that I tried out. Love the chair...had to put a Shuo Sugi spin on it though. Likely to be the next video that I release. Stay tuned and please subscribe if you haven't already. Thanks!

[@kerricorser4562]

Danish oil is my choice. (Is this also known as teak oil?) I think id go with med-dark burn. Like coffee! 😂 ❤❤❤ So for the beautiful colorful woods, can we just wire brush them to raise the grain then oil them for natural color? Is there any other process besides burning that can prep them like burning? Thanks for making these videos.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yup, that's my choice too. Sanding and then oiling is an option too. The burn just adds a darker color and makes the wood look more interesting...also enhances the longevity of the wood.

[@nelsondog100]

I’ve long thought about burning the wood over a bed of charcoal. Any thoughts?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Sure, that works. The blow torch to me is simply the easiest way to do this and to have control over the process. Burning over an actual fire is more a purist move. Go for it. Let me know how that goes.

[@consciousconscience]

Why would you not rub in the polyurethane spray like you did for the others?

[@TinyIndustrial]

As a spray on product it is intended to coat and harden in place. It's a different thing than the oils which are intended to soak into the wood. Much like if I had used spray paint on the wood, I would not smooth that out with a brush either. Same holds true for a clear coat of poly-urethane...it resides more on the surface vs. soaking in.

[@panzfaust9812]

How to prevent bending/ bowing?

[@TinyIndustrial]

When you burn all sides, I takes care of that pretty efficiently. Burning only one side will lead to bowing. What project are you considering for this?

[@panzfaust9812]

@@TinyIndustrial used a mahogany plank as trial run but it was only one side. Will try both sides. Going for outdoor privacy fence. Do you assemble them first then heat treat it or heat treat individual pieces followed by assembly?

[@TinyIndustrial]

I would always burn everything first and then assemble after. Otherwise, where there are joints or pieces mounted together, you will get areas that aren't treated and they will be subject to premature deterioration.

[@chompers11]

The trick is to burn 3 in a triangle vertically tied together with wire, starting a fire at the bottom. When it gets to the top you cut the wire and immediately wash heavy with a hose. Suyaki or alligator finish is considered the best but its all objective. Wash off alll the soot right after burning, let dry, then apply a penetrating oil finish. Never brush in my opinion. The boards dont cup as long as you burn fast, hot, and wash off to complete the process. Missing any step and it will warp. If youre getting white ash you burned too long or in one area too much

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@chompers11 yup. That's the traditional method.

[@bugattisss6603]

Is there any way to prevent warping?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Well, the best way is to best way is to burn all sides/edges of a piece of wood. That even heating minimizes the internal stresses that heating only one side causes. It's doesn't guarantee that there won't be any warping, but it does minimize it. What's the project you are thinking of doing?

[@ColinMacInnis]

Came here for this comment. I made a few dice trays for my Dungeons and Dragons group but the wood (used pine) got pretty warped on some of the trays. I thought maybe I should plane the wood after burning. Any idea if this would work?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Did you burn on all sides? Also the thinner the wood, the more prone to warping it would be. Maybe make the dice trays thicker and beefier. Usually adds to the esthetic when you do that too. Give it a try.

[@corysherban9555]

I find that diluting the linseed oil with mineral spirits helps with penetration and drying time. I find linseed oil on its own is too thick and takes forever to dry and it's clumpy if you try to sand. I do it at a 50/50 mix buy jug of each and just mix it into both jugs evenly and apply it Karate Kid Style oil on oil off, LOL I'll usually put on double the coats and I find it's much nicer looking and easier to work with as well as penetrating deeper and more evenly due to the mineral spirits just my opinion and how I do it at home with linseed oil as it's my go-to finish

[@TinyIndustrial]

Nice. Have never tried that or really felt a need to do that. I tend not to sand after application of the oil. Thanks for the tip!

[@alexwonner7469]

Very good trick! Thanks for sharing it!

[@sawdustadikt979]

I do something similar, I do multiple coats raising the linseed oil concentration level to full on last coat, gives a deep crackle finish more durablity, especially in out door applications. It’s all about getting the oil to soak deep into the wood fibers and thoroughly through the char.

[@yatakadai]

I have a silly question that I'm sure experienced woodworkers would find obvious but would mineral oil work for outdoor applications? My instinct says no but I figured I would ask

[@sawdustadikt979]

@@yatakadai do an experiment.

[@KLFaber]

I don't care what it looks like. I want to use this technique to preserve the lumber I make my raised garden beds out of. I think I should go with at least medium but would a heavier burn be more durable?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, go for a heavier burn. Some have said not to take it too far though since you start to impact the integrity and strength of the wood with too aggressive a burn. Will you be documenting your raised beds on KZbin?

[@KLFaber]

@@TinyIndustrial It's done. and the wood soaked up the Linseed oil like a sponge. I have my doubts that this will work, but the wood was so cheap I couldn't resist. It would make for a good vdeo to see how long it will last, but it would need to have a 'control' to see how much better it performs than doing nothing special. I appreciate your efforts.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Wood soaking up the oil is a good start. Pretty chilly up north here and temp tends to play a roll too. The warmer it is the better. Some will even warm up the oil before applying it. Not sure how much that really helps. Again, thanks for the comments..

[@hannahanderson2257]

Good video, my feedback is even though the alligator skin look isn’t for you, you should have shown us how that would have turned out. I love that look, and I especially I wonder how it finishes and if it rubs off or is delicate…

[@TinyIndustrial]

True. I may go back and do a video specifically on that. Would that be helpful?

[@useyourheadpliz]

Hi, Thanks for the content. Easy to follow and informative, good atmosphere, simple and relaxed, but serious about the subject. Appreciate it! One question: With oil, how often should it be re-applied? What are the signs to look for to know when it is time to "re-coat"? Thanks.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Hard to say. I would think that once per year would be sufficient in regard to recoating. Thank for checking out the content and for the kind words. Are you planning a project with this technique?

[@useyourheadpliz]

@@TinyIndustrial Thanks for the answer. Yes, I just bought a big piece of land in Northern Ontario and am planning to build a house and several cabins on it with different construction materials and technics. As a follow-up question, do you know if burnt wood is ever used as a below grade treatment for wood posts?

[@TinyIndustrial]

I have seen some videos where the technique is used on fence posts. Not sure if it held up in that kind of scenario. Bottom line is that burning the wood will always get you some additional longevity...how much is the question and whether or not it's worth it. I employ the technique for looks and to extend the life.

[@4x4vania]

3:00 💪🏻

[@TinyIndustrial]

Rapid fire.

[@MarkSmith-bw6ob]

Medium,linseed

[@TinyIndustrial]

That's exactly how I roll. Nice to see I'm in good company. Check out my new video on the topic. I make a chair with this technique: kzbin.info/www/bejne/anTTpYZ_q7x9abMsi=MAZWLi2IUhg0kSpN

[@TheRealHonestInquiry]

I'll take the free option of no finish or if money is no object, boiled linseed oil as long as that's the only ingredient. My concern with the finish when using them for raised beds, planter boxes, or outdoor siding, is what happens when it eventually starts to deteriorate? I'm using this method to avoid toxic chemicals in the first place and weather seal the wood naturally so I don't have to worry about polluting the environment further; babies are already born with plastic microparticles in their bloostream, that's a toxic enough planet for me.

[@villifyz999]

Plenty of plant based coatings out there. Vermont natural coatings carry’s tons

[@TinyIndustrial]

Totally agree that there are too many chemicals used. I agree with the comment though that using the burn to help preserve the wood is already eliminating chemicals from that process. Adding some linseed oil doesn't really seem that bad for me. Totally understand that if this is to be in a planter, you want to be careful.

[@zeejimi4044]

I like the lightly burned variants best. I can’t see much difference in the surfaces with regard to the products usedto finish them. I have watched some shou sugi ban videos which used food colours and they looked good too ! 👍

[@Mushroom.Madness.]

Thoughts on mineral oil? Anyone?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yeah...any experience with that? Linseed is my go to.

[@mountainwolf1]

It is yakisugi= burned cedar not shou sugi ban that term is more western than japanese Thanks for sharing.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thank you!

[@jonmichaelroberts]

I hope people do their research and understand it is possible that the two lighter burns may not preserve much, mainly aesthetic at that point as I understand and probably would not use the term.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Right. Helps a bit. All about what your goal is. I'm just trying to illustrate the different looks you can achieve.

[@drumbuddy9028]

How do you prevent wood cupping after the burn?

[@TinyIndustrial]

Burn both sides...it minimizes cupping. The cupping and bending is mostly caused by heat being applied unevenly to a piece of wood.

[@hippiehillape]

Heavy burn, heavy linseed

[@TinyIndustrial]

Fair enough. I have been tending towards the darker burns lately myself.

[@shaunnewsome4103]

light burn

[@TinyIndustrial]

Fair enough. It's all subjective. Any project in mind?

[@VIKING1011]

Cold pressed linseed oil makes more sense.

[@TinyIndustrial]

How so?

[@VIKING1011]

@@TinyIndustrial What is the difference between cold-pressed crude and cold-pressed boiled linseed oil? Raw linseed oil is extremely penetrative and impregnating. It also takes longer to dry. Boiled linseed oil dries faster and penetrates well into the substrate, but not as deeply as raw linseed oil

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@VIKING1011 I was not fully aware of that. Good to know. Thanks!

[@pipes8273]

When preparing external cladding I’m assuming all surfaces of the boards must be burned and oiled? Thank you

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, that is a best practice.

[@grahamfletcher5320]

10:52

[@TinyIndustrial]

Indeed :)

[@bikesanddrums9143]

Burning to the pointnof the alligator skin weakens the integrity and isnt recommended. If you want to preserve the grain of the wood you can use a heavy nylon deck brush instead

[@TinyIndustrial]

Sure. There is a trade off here. Some people are looking to preserve the wood (primary focus). Others are trying to make it look nice. Depending on what your goals are, one method may make more or less sense. Deeper vs. lighter and so on.

[@ontae1986]

I prefer the light burn. Gives the wood more character.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Fair enough. It's totally a preference thing. I can add though that it's a 'bit' more difficult to get an even light burn on a piece of wood than a darker one. What project are you considering with this?

[@ontae1986]

@@TinyIndustrial yeah I take it back. You were right, the middle is best. I seen it on a floor and it just too much. Too busy to look at ya know.

[@TinyIndustrial]

You came around to the dark side...Thanks!

[@merrymaker1031]

Yakisugi, not shou sugi ban.....

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes, yes, I know. People search for Shou Sugi Ban though and I like showing up in searches vs. being 'correct'. Gotta pay the bills you know?

[@mountainwolf1]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqqToGmcbM1jpbMsi=0YKs3xJPcaC0NUut - yakisugi

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yes...but a lot of people search for it under Shou Sugi Ban....and I like when my video's get found. :)

[@mountainwolf1]

@@TinyIndustrial indeed a good video it is nice work.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Thanks!

[@dang6832]

DONT DRINK THE KOOL AID! You’re old enough to know better. I liked them all.

[@TinyIndustrial]

What? Not sure I follow. I'll hone in on the "I liked them all" comment. :)

[@dang6832]

@@TinyIndustrial Jim Jones in Jonestown French Guiana. He killed all his cult followers with Kool Aid.

[@BGP369]

brushing off the carbon defeats the purpose of doing yaki sugi. If you are going for asthetics only, its fine. Otherwise, dont brush it. That burnt carbon is what increases protection.

[@TinyIndustrial]

Agreed, you are taking off some of the protection by brushing it. I have made raised beds/planters recently and didn't brush them. Also lead to a cool look without impacting the protection aspect (just oiled the burned wood).

[@BGP369]

@@TinyIndustrial yup, this works just fine. It's how I do it too.

[@jsardino8415]

Light burn

[@TinyIndustrial]

That's the one you like? Are you doing a project with this or what's your specific interest in the process?

[@xtrmdrgn]

You have failed your experiment display 16 seconds in because you don't have a control. All different intensities of heat and all different finishes creates too many variables to effectively and definitively come to a conclusion. Unless the less obvious point was to showcase all the variables. FYI, there was no link to your other video in the actual video.

[@marahfanning2879]

Linseed oil - no that stuff stinks!

[@TinyIndustrial]

If you stick your nose in the bottle....but not after it's been applied...or certainly not a day or two after application? You sure you're not using sesame oil? :)

[@marahfanning2879]

@@TinyIndustrial yep I’m sure I did not, nor did I stick my nose in the bottle - sesame oil smells much better!

[@TinyIndustrial]

@@marahfanning2879 Ok, fair enough. There are other oils you can use.

[@loofyfurniture214]

worst application of a spray on poly i have ever seen

[@TinyIndustrial]

Yeah, it was pretty bad. Not sure what was up with that nozzle...