Bus #3: EZ-Rider bus looks great cleaned up! Plus the CAR WIZARD has found a lost gear?!?

[@DanielDaniel1]

Hey wizard, I’m a city bus driver and I’d recommend you work on insulating the bus and heavily tinting the windows. Also, the doors weatherstripping usually leaves an air gap so it would be worth doing a custom rubber flap on the bottoms. These things have excellent belt driven air conditioning but you’ll probably want to get one or two roof units on the roof hatches. I’d strongly caution you about running in hilly terrain as this bus likely only ever dealt with mostly flat terrain. A lot of these units that have been converted start having problems when pushed into the mountains, even if the engine is strong. Check your tire speed ratings too. You should be ok but it’s worth looking into. I’m gonna recommend you delete any emission controls on it if applicable as these are a major pain point for our fleet. We literally get pallets of giant dpf units delivered monthly. Lastly I’d recommend you ensure your low beam headlamps are actually acceptably working. Most city buses run with the headlamps on 24/7 and they obviously degrade over time. Love this project

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Now, isn't it handy to get such good suggestions from a city bus driver? Makes sense about taking it into the mountains, especially with the power chips installed. Enjoy! ☺

[@ejburke8271]

I will especially second the insulation in regards to the firewall/exhaust region. Regarding the DPF issues - if the engine is well maintained and you're looking at a single vehicle, you should have ample warning to take the filter to get it cleaned out - and it won't happen frequently. If you're not going to maintain the engine well, you have to figure that all of the fuel and oil that you burn will create soot and fill up the filter. Soot is mostly generated by the oil consumption, not the diesel, so the big question is the level of oil consumption. You also need to understand your operating regimes. If you never push the engine enough to get heat into the exhaust, then the soot will plug it up and never be oxidized (into ash). An engine that is performing well and regularly getting hot will have a DPF that very slowly fills with ash, needing to be cleaned between 50k and 100k miles. The reason that depots have pallets of DPF replacement filters is that they can't wait even a day with the vehicles down to have them cleaned, so they cycle through them (business vs personal use - this could be fine). If you contact Johnson Matthey, they might provide you with the software to monitor the exhaust pressure and you'd be able to have it cleaned before there are problems, as well as using it as a diagnostic to know if anything was headed downhill. - Heck, they might send someone out to show you the ropes and train you up on it. This is the type of PR that they're always looking for.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@BringerOfDearth I drove teenage schoolkids to school with a luxury tourbus, and that seat is where many boys had their dreams cum true!😅😅😅

[@JimS6025]

I would also suggest in addition to this get a good pair of LED headlamps (the stock ones on your bus look to be a standard 7" type) it will help with increasing the visibility (make sure they are DRL compatible to be safe?) and will be easier on the electrical system that's only getting older each day, I would suggest checking the turn signals (couldn't tell if they were LED already or not) for burned out lamps/LEDs and any bulb possible replace with either an LED equivalent, or LED replacement fixture. Again a lot less strain on the electrical system and that also translates into less fuel consumption and less work for the engine, especially if its already working harder in hilly or mountainous areas.

[@joshuaavila8317]

I also work on busses. Man that's crazy our whole new fleet had dpf head unit issue too we order 100 units at a time and they only last 5k mile up to 20k mile . We have major issues with dpf heads . Our busses run every day

[@RealRickCox]

I never thought I'd say this.... but I think you bought a bus that really matches your personality. Nobody is more "Thrifty" than Bus Wizard. :D

[@pepijngentenaar7089]

The Wizard Buzz

[@kentmckean6795]

I would advise against running a combination of 12VDC and 120VAC lighting. Go with all 12VDC lighting and use a 120VAC to 12VDC power supply. When you switch to shore power, this switch will isolate the 12VDC lighting circuit and connect the 120VAC to 12VDC power supply to the lighting circuit. In the end, you will need to be very conscious of adding too much weight.

[@mgkleym]

I'd just do a full RV style dc system with ether a converter or a big inverter charger like a victron multiplus. It's pretty standard for your house battery charger to also run your DC loads.

[@XBootlicker]

True. Lightning is lightning

[@thedopplereffect00]

He needs some consulting from rich rebuilds in the electrical. They did a pretty cool RV project awhile ago.

[@tw157059]

Yes definitely! Even the most simple option (a power supply and a manual switch) is easier to install than duplicate lighting systems. That is just twice the weight and complexity. And what are you going to do when you travel to a place with a 240v power socket? The transformer will be just fine.

[@bakkenar]

Yeah, please don't do that. You want house batteries with a charger/converter so when you plug in you charge the batteries, and also a battery isolator so the bus alternator can also charge the house battery, but the house can't drain the bus battery.

[@davidstocks8153]

If you're intending to drive at higher speeds for longer periods you may want to check the speed rating for the tyres. Urban buses tend to be fitted with low speed rated tyres that will overheat at higher speeds.

[@Vulcan650Vampire]

Good point. I always find the Tyre vs. Tire argument very interesting

[@adrianpeters2413]

@@Vulcan650Vampire get a grip , tread lightly, yes I know ..?

[@ghomerhust]

great point. jumping to a road-going dump-truck or other lighter duty tire would still offer comfort (softer sidewall) while being rated for the added weight of the RV install and higher rotational forces of 75mph driving.

[@Vulcan650Vampire]

@@adrianpeters2413 I have some really good puns about tires, but I’ll spare you

[@williamjones4483]

@@Vulcan650Vampire **FACEPALM**

[@watm80]

It would be fun to weigh the bus empty and then when you’ve finished to see the weight you’ve added!

[@markl1604]

Probably the biggest question is home luxuries like hot tubs can effect engine performance. ha ha.

[@daniesalex7073]

It would be fun if they took it out for a drive to see how fast the bus is without any stuff in it

[@johns6816]

A big, easy to deploy awning should be in your budget. This will shade at least one side of the bus and make rain easier to deal with as you go in and out of the bus. Fold out counters under the awning will allow cooking and food prep outside of the bus to help limit heat and odors. And getting outside is the whole point of camping anyway. For guys anyway, a hole in the floor, a hose and funnel will save a lot of room in your sewage tanks too 🙂

[@christopherkraft1327]

Hey Wizard & Mrs Wizard, this is looking like it's going to be a really fun project!!! I'm looking forward to following along on the progress y'all make!!! Thanks for sharing this exciting video!!! 👍👍🎃

[@JimS6025]

Hey wizard, Bus RV guy here, and just wanted to possibly give you and MS. Wizard a tip that would help out, not sure if your already thinking of this or not, but when you put in your cabinets and all the other things that will mount to the walls, I strongly suggest using the black bars (tracks) that run along the walls and/or floors that the seats would have mounted to, why? SECURITY, it will be a good way to make sure things won't shift around on you as they were already meant to hold seats in place, so I think you get the intended idea I'm going for. ;) Hope this helps you out with your bus project!!

[@forbeshutton5487]

Those "child-proof" latches that are meant for home cabinets with little ones roaming around will be useful for keeping doors and drawers throughout the RV/Bus closed while moving.

[@XBootlicker]

C track

[@JimS6025]

@@XBootlicker Thanks, forgot the name of it!

[@XBootlicker]

I used to do the Interiors of El Dorado busses before they closed the plant.

[@JoshEaton]

The seat framing looks to be Unistrut. We use it on our research vessels. It is quite useful to bolt things to the wall, deck, or overhead.

[@kerrylewis2581]

I love that very knowledgeable fans send useful information and teach you instead of the other way around. I'll miss the yacht, but this is equally as good of a project.

[@sgttombailes3380]

Excellent Project Guys !! Looking GREAT.. Keep the vids coming on this one.. In 1976, I took a new Ford E-150 cargo van and turned it into one of the nicest Conversion vans on the road.. I put over 60K miles on it the first year.. Camping, traveling, you name it.. Car shows, Races~~~ etal.. ! I did it and LOVED every minute of it. So did my friends and relatives.. We all had a wonderful time in that thing.. Carry On Bro w/ your project ! HooAh !

[@dalewalker4614]

Those were the days! 70's Vans are in high demand now that vanning is catching back on.

[@littlejefe494]

use 2 layers of polarized ceramic tint on the windows to help keep the interior temp, also try to layer some aluminum coated styrofoam panels for wall and roof insulation, and a lot of people over look insulating the floor

[@shamanosarcasm9800]

I just bought a new car and spent the extra for ceramic tint and agree, it's the best investment, especially here in Florida. Even on the hottest days (90+) the interior is mildly warm and nothing is scorching hot to the touch. Good call!!! Get a shop to sponsor the tint for some advert space on the Magic Bus!!!!

[@kevinshort3943]

Make sure you insulate it properly, including the floor and windows. Also, use light weight materials, so the bus can still move when you are done.

[@tcm81]

How do you insulate the windows?

[@JoeVinson]

@@tcm81 they probably won't need it, but if they are not being used, I recommend drop ceiling tiles. They are easy to work with as far as cutting and piecing together. I used to work at night so I did that in my bedroom. It was great.

[@altergreenhorn]

@@tcm81 Double glased windows are fit in a proper RV, also all windows not needed are replaced with metal sheet welded in

[@C.Fecteau-AU-MJ13]

Such a good point... I've seen many a converted bus or RV that could barely pull itself and once it's filled with all the shit needed to make it a motor home, it's fuckin hopeless.

[@jamesrobert782]

@@tcm81 with foam board, you can buy at home depot

[@gaveintothedarkness]

Shoutout to the fan that his providing guidance and expertise to the Wizard!

[@paulb4013]

Watch you and mrs videos all time from Dubai. Learning allot about automatics which I know nothing about . I know this wasn’t about that subject but sending appreciation to you both ❤

[@jazzjokesjalopies]

Mr. And Mrs. Wizard are so ambitious and talented. We’re thankful to be invited along on the journey.

[@AD-xt9og]

Another bus mechanic here. You need to get the control unit for the HVAC system. The over pressure switch you pointed out will not work without it. You most likely will frost over the evaporator over and over again. It does have a over pressure valve when that blows it will dump all the refrigerant, 12 to 15 pounds of it. Check to see if the reader you have for the trans will let you do a clutch test. Why, because you can use that as a go home, lock the trans in one gear and drive. You will be surprised how well it will drive locked in third gear. To add to your travel tool kit have a copy of the clutch chart so you know what clutches are used in what gear. To help pick a gear to lock into a drive home. If the trans does have a bad fault going down the road it will lock it self in gear, pick a good spot to stop because it might go into to neutral once stopped and if the fault is bad it will not go into gear again. If you want make up a set of gauges with hoses long enough to go through the rear vent windows. One for main pressure and one for the clutch that set a code. Pressure test points are on the bottom of the trans and marked. When putting tall stuff in there put it on the driver side keeping the right side windows clear to see better. The emergency windows make a nice access to the back side of a cabinet you build in there if you leave room to pull the handle. Driving a low floor bus is nice because visibility you have. Being able to look to the right to make a lane change. I really like that it does not have a front door. I assume one of the bus guys told you how to latch the emergency roof hatch. It makes for a good place to get on the roof.

[@AD-xt9og]

A note on the A/C, troubleshoot all the wiring. If I remember right the control box works with grounding circuits. If the wiring checks out I would open up the control box and look for broken connections.

[@orangecrocks]

I have to say I love reading the comments for these. There’s a lot of great feedback from the community and I think this is gonna be a really cool project. As somebody who owns a class A, I’m partial to country coach so I’ve gotten pretty adept at maintaining a vehicle, which is 16 years old. One thing I would look at with your conversion is take some inspiration from some of these really small class B units that are built on a sprinter as well as class C trucks. You owned and renovated a smaller yacht and you know all together how space is that a Premium and that’s gonna be the case even though this is a big bus fitting everything you need in there it’s still going to be tight because you do not have the clearance underneath like I have in my coach. The people talking about closing up windows are likely advocating that because it will make mounting storage cabinets easier. Insulation may also be a good idea. You want to make sure that you watch the weight so that your gross vehicle weight will allow you to tow a vehicle. Altogether really looking forward to what you do it this project. Best of luck.

[@scottimusgarrett15]

You have to keep the "Your courtesy driver is" sign in the front! I have f-all to add here, given my lack of bus knowledge. Good to know that your viewers are helping you out with the hints and secrets. I'm really looking forward to watching you and Mrs. Wizard dial this (huge) puppy in! Thanks, folks!

[@jayyambrovich3740]

Wizard and Mrs. Wizard - what a cool challenge you're taking on. Good luck, will be watching closely as I was (at one time) considering converting a vehicle for RV use. We now live (retired) in Portugal but had a 36' 1996 Monaco Dynasty motorcoach for a while before we retired. Ours had the Cummins 8.3-liter 300hp setup with Allison 6-speed. A very nice combination and even with the size and weight of our coach, I felt that 300hp was plenty for our needs. Torque was north of 800 ft-lb which may have helped. We did a 2900-mile trip in it (California, Nevada, Idaho, Washington, Oregon and back to California) and AVERAGED 8.5 mpg. I usually cruised at between 60 and 65. FUEL TANK - You said your bus has an 80-gallon fuel tank (if I recall correctly). Look up what the USABLE fuel amount is. Our bus had a 140-gallon fuel tank but the owner's manual said that the USABLE fuel was closer to 100 gallons. TIRES - I caution you about the tires you currently have on your bus. RV industry (in general) says that no matter what the tread depth, if they are more than 7 years old they should be replaced. Please consider this for the safety of yourselves and those around you. KEEPING COOL - when you're on the road, you're going to be sitting in a giant Easy-Bake oven up there. If the sun is out, you're going to know it. Our coach had small dash-mounted fans (one for each of us) that I was using constantly. The dashboard AC wasn't worth a crap in that regard and even running the two overhead AC units (with generator on) wasn't much help. It kept the coach cool but when it is 75-80 degrees (or warmer) outside and you're driving into the sun, you're going to feel like a rotisserie chicken from Costco!! Wear light colored clothing, shade your eyes, wear good sunglasses and ENJOY THE RIDE! I always had an ear-to-ear grin when driving my coach, even in downtown Seattle trying to find a place to park it so we could check out Pike Place Market.

[@OldMadScientist]

Two thoughts ..... First. If the naming contest is still on, I would call it the (Star Trek) Galileo. It is/was a shuttle after all. Second. Mr. & Mrs. Wizard should go RV shopping, to get design and layout ideals for their project.

[@HammerWrench]

If you raise the interior floor, being that there is ample headroom, that would give you the benefits of in-floor storage. Room for 120v wiring, plumbing, and fresh/waste tank storage (if there’s no room underneath).

[@houseofno]

If you RAISE the interior floor, that would actually REDUCE the amount of headroom available.

[@HazewinDog]

@@houseofno no shit captain

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@houseofno The guy just said there's ample headroom, so raising it a bit can give you the stuff mentioned above.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@HazewinDog Gosh, noddy badge for him informing us of that!

[@HammerWrench]

@@houseofno SINCE there is room to spare above head, then raise the floor. You can’t store heavy items up high in an already top heavy rig. Therefore, building a raised floor would give storage, insulation, and sound deadening. Wizard will never miss the 3 feet of headroom above him if the floor is brought up to only 12-18”. It’s an Rv, headroom isn’t a selling point.

[@haroldneely9253]

I like it. It’s not a project I would have time for and would probably regret it, but I look forward to seeing what y’all come up with, as more people I know are ditching the idea of a mortgage. Very similar to back in the 80s around here, we were young it was good times, a lot of creativity and we all learned a lot. 👍

[@organiccold]

This will be a great RV. Then just need a nice wrap with the Wizard colours. Wizard you should get some surplus solar panels, with such a huge roof it's great

[@josephalberta1145]

I did a Prevost 2 years ago. Lots of work but buses have so much more room and weight carrying capability. Been having lots of fun on camping trips.

[@thebigguy8306]

Thank you, Wizard and Mrs. WOW great project, with both of your talents I can't wait to see how it turns out. Thoughts? Seating - at least in front - thinking boat seats with spring/hydraulics under them. Also do not forget RV/Boat heating/AC equipment and cooking (stovetop) ideas. Remember the place for the generator, and water tanks

[@omaromaromar8157]

Wizard'z channel is so much slower pace than other car channels. I LOVE IT! such a relaxing experience.

[@jonnydwolf]

Mrs wizard is very wise, thanks for sharing your bus project.

[@remiel3315]

Dad has that same scan tool for his Cummins 24 valve pusher RV, and yes it will work for normal OBD2, I've used it on his trucks and mine as well.

[@Mr.Reality3000]

The magic bus is on!! Good job and keep going Wizard👍🏼😉

[@davidascher1801]

That's brilliant performance improvements, Mrs. Wizard a simple cardboard mock-up would make life better! Good going guys!

[@paulhoskins7852]

This seems to be the smartest sort of RV conversion I've ever seen. A 6th gear and more power? This will be a get-away beast!! I agree with another person on here who recommended tinting some windows and adding insulation of some kind, where reasonable.

[@Vincent-ke5zn]

You're completely right about that you don't need to go faster than 70mph especially on a windy day or bad day

[@canadaguy1234]

Cool project! If you didnt think of it you might want to put some eterna bond or flex tape over the holes you siliconed in to make sure they stay water tight long term. One more idea- cinsider using LED tape light for the 120v lighting in the chases. Or even possibly pulling out the tubes and run it for 12v also. Easy to install, doesn't take up much space and the newer stuff is as bright as the tubes and less energy.

[@gpwcowboy]

Or just dig that garbage out and recaulk w real caulk that actually seals.

[@dainsmart6237]

Are you going to use marine plywood for the floor and sides Very good for wear and tear before you put the final carpet down have you thought of bunk beds for the back and you would bea keep one side at the back clear to walk down? Looking good up to now Mr and Mrs wizard

[@Jon_2218]

Car Wizard, Have you thought of a strategically placed on board generator that will tap into that system and be able to handle all the amps safely for stationary camping needs? Depends on where you intend to camp, weather it be a campground with electricity plug in source or using a on board generator, all your family electrical camping need to be considered. Running two A/C units while in transition a another matter, stationary camping needs also another matter. Thanks for your vids, always appreciated

[@jamesfleming5875]

I’m really looking forward to this build,I love the fact that you don’t cut corners you do it properly from the start.👍🇬🇧

[@_PatrickO]

Put rigid foam over windows you want blocked as well as the top and sides of the wheel well bulges to reduce heat and noise coming through. You could fill the gap between the bed frame and wheel well with rigid foam or spray foam to get the more sound dampening under the beds. Maybe even putting sound dampening mat on the wheel wells before foam. It all depends how much noise comes through.

[@hejmuesli]

You should do a before and after test of those upgrades to the engine and transmission. Like do a 0-30, 0-60, top speed, and look at the RPMs at typical crusing speeds.

[@ChrisSmith-iv7no]

Wizard my parents had a tire come apart and rip their electrical out of their travel trailer a few years ago. The insurance company totaled it out, after they got payed out the insurance didn’t even want it, so they sold it cheap. If you could find a totaled out camper you could get most to all of your components for your bus cheap.

[@dwilson6334]

You mentioned a minisplit system, maybe it would work to get a ducted minisplit? I'm guessing their are air ducts behind those side lights...or you could create a false celing and add some insulation and air ducts. Glad to see you're making progress!

[@RonaldSimkin]

Back in the mid 1980's I worked on the main assembly line at this bus company in Minneapolis Kansas.

[@BigBundy82]

I’ve dreamed of doing exactly what your doing- Converting a Bus into a Bad ass RV!!!

[@roscop.coaltrain9440]

You're gonna have to think about your water tanks; fresh and gray. I'd personally recommend a natures head toilet. Set it up beforehand, clean it really good when done, only have to deal with grey water

[@lirr408]

Thanks for the progress on the bus. I love watching the updates.

[@mattmayo3539]

Taking out my families 5th wheel this week to the coast. This channel has inspired me many times to fix stuff and upgrade. Good times! Enjoy the bud!

[@bryduhbikeguy]

For the passenger seat,you could check for a salvage Semi dealer,or scrapyard.Get a swivel pneumatic base like the driver seat so you don't get 'sea-sick' from bouncing for miles on bad roads.I've seen a couple rebuilds of trucks and those seats work awesome.

[@bazookapanda]

You know, if you put the Bed Parallel To The Back of the Bus than it would be wide and connected. The little corridor becomes floor space and the wheel wells could have some small cabinetry on it. I bet it would be wide enough for two and certainly enough leg room. You would lie parallel with the rear axle as apposed to being parallel with the wheels.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

I agree

[@v4stroker]

Bed access then just from one side if you need the bathroom in the night and are at the back of the bed you have to climb over the other person waking them up

[@cardinaloflannagancr8929]

Very cool project here. The upgrades on the drivetrain all make sense they simply configure for how and where it is used. Which makes sense and simplifies labor and parts when service becomes necessary. Whether it's a city bus, greyhound etc..

[@CR7659]

I would check out older conversion vans in the junkyard for a seat. You take the middle seat out on the left side, floor bracket and all, and you should be able to get something in decent condition that can rotate and it might bolt right onto that bracket. If it's still too low it would be simple to modify. Usually all four buckets are identical, some of my conversions I just swap a rear one to the front to have something that's like new and comfortable. The only thing I wonder if you want is the side door opening directly to the bathroom area. I had some of those truck scantool sets, bought at a state auction a few years ago. Did really good selling them.

[@eldraino9933]

Even though I’m not a huge fan of Mrs Wizards input, it shows what a lovely genuine person David is to ensure his wife has a role to participate in the channel - kudos to David as a great, Christian husband

[@sorokolu]

Hey, something to consider: covering windows with colour matching dot-mesh (like on company cars). I have it in white on half of my balcony, it does great in keeping temp down in the summer. Kind regards

[@marcuscoster6529]

I was thinking doing the mesh wrap on the outside and dark tint on the inside would probably help a lot

[@ieism1]

@@marcuscoster6529 do it the other way around. Ive had mesh outside and its impossible to keep clean. Now i have black mesh from amazon thats sticky but not permanent on the inside, and tint outside. You cannot look into the van but i can still look outside even when driving i can see something.

[@31dknight]

another great video from the wizard. thanks

[@stevem268]

it's interesting that the engine was "detuned" for city use, probably extends it's life considerably. as an rv, there will far more highway driving and much less stops and starts many rv owners rarely cook in their camper, in over twenty years of camping our oven has been used twice and stovetop elements almost as rarely. most food prep is done outside so consider a propane hookup for a bbq, outdoor outlets. many rv;'s these days have kitchen facilities accessible from the outside. another ting to consider is water tanks; fresh water, gray water(shower and sinks) and black water(toilet). rv's have these all under the floor, the black tank is almost always directly under the toilet. you may want to think about tank placement early in the build!

[@johnmichaelkarma]

I would absolutely need some window modification for fresh air circulation and natural cooling for when bus is at rest and in "camp" mode. Without it might seem like your living in a bus. That's just me 🤪.😎🌌🌠🌦

[@humberto1194]

Ms. Wizard look like she owns one of those very informative programs i watched as a kid at discovery channel here voice is impressive it sound like the news some like that. Much love for this project tho looking forward to see this full series. 😎

[@michaeldecker2725]

In the back of the bus perhaps folding couches like that they have in rv’s might suffice. They won’t look like beds all the time and you have a comfortable elevated lounge area to look out of the windows. Up front again a comfortable tv passenger seat with arm rests. Maybe add some sort of folding table for working on the lap top while traveling. Do put multiple storage drawers up front as well for items needed on the go (sunglasses, wipes, charging cords, flashlights ,etc.). Don’t forget some direct dim lighting over the passenger seat so you can read, prepare snacks, etc. (on the fold down table!). If you can attach some molding along the ceiling to install indirect rope lighting to illuminate the interior without disturbing the driver at night or just setting some ambiance during the evening. Just my $.02 worth.

[@Bbbuddy]

Fun project. Looking forward to Mrs. W’s decor choices.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Me2!

[@mgcarr61camaro91]

Great video! I think im hooked on your channel! Nice to see more of mrs wizard too ! The ladies know more than us guys on how to design things!👍👍

[@Mahmoud.Jehad.Nassan]

this is the most build i am excited for on KZbin

[@doug2078]

So far so good !! This should be a cool looking RV.!

[@karstenvandersande3710]

Keep the windows! You will have the greatest view for road trips. I would recommend putting shades and curtains for each window for privacy and darkness when ur sleeping. You can also use the front wheel wells as benches and cabinets

[@Renee_R343]

Have you even seen any RVs? Why do you think they have so few windows? Because there's a huge amount of crap covering the inside walls. Like cabinetry and a bathroom. Just blacked out or vinyl wrapped huge windows look ghetto as hell.

[@Barbarapape]

So much to think about before you even start buying new parts and fittings for the interior. Previous experience with these sort of projects will make a big difference, it's good to hear that others than have been there are helping you out. I am sure that we will be watching many more video's before it is all finished.

[@2000freefuel]

For more usable storage space under the beds and front seat, I would suggest you have the old seat brackets cut an welded to better frame out your plans. doing so will eliminate lots of dead space that could be used as an unobstructed storage volume. In place of installing 120 volt lights I will encourage you to install a battery charger sufficient to power your 12 volt accessories along with float charging your batteries.

[@s_class7027]

Magnificent bus. Wonderful project.

[@henrycarlson7514]

So Wise , Thank You .Thank You for sharing you're project

[@peteragopian386]

Hey, Wizard! Regarding the car you wish to tow behind the bus, I would like to recommend a 1st Gen Honda Insight. 1850 pounds, aluminum monocoque chassis, 50-60 mpg, all the you would want, and you have the choice of either a cvt or a stick! Oh and they are cheap too

[@1976theenforcer]

It looks like you two have alot of work ahead. I had considered what you are doing but ended up buying a 2004 Newmar Dutch Star instead for about $60k and have no regrets. The advantage is a larger Cummins 8.9 engine and Allison trans, along with a basement for tons of storage. Good luck, I look forward to seeing your progress.

[@arwenevenstar9843]

I don't know if someone else has suggested these, but here are mine: * 1 fixed wide angle backup camera using wires, (for reliability over WiFi), at the top rear. * Another wide angle backup camera, (maybe WiFi), attached to the rear of any vehicle that you are towing. * Large LCD, (10" or larger), in easy view of the driver, for the backup camera(s). Could possibly be a tablet, and used for navigation when not parking. * Front mounted spot light, 180 degree adjustable from inside. Not sure if drivers corner would be better, giving the chance of 270 degree range, (adding driver's side) * At least 4 official seats, (in addition to driver), with 3 point seat belts, so if you have guests or children, they are safe. Otherwise, sounds like you have great handle of what you want to do. Good luck.

[@ARCH-ll3te]

Hi Wizard - you may want to louver that rear engine hatch door - free natural engine compartment ventilation.

[@notold37]

Hey Mr & Mrs Car Wizard, don't forget to give yours a washer and dryer, loving the bus build, 👍🏼👍🏼🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘Cheers from Melbourne Australia

[@rolands.6439]

There are some SPS like the Siemens LOGO that work on 12V or 24V. If you only have to actuate 4 relais switches you could actually use these to simplify the operation of the built in AC. There is a lerning curve to program those - but not too bad. (You can also add 4 more relais switches to the same system with an add on module)

[@chrismiller1818]

This is going to be a fun project I looked over comments and there helpful I am curious where you will put holding tanks both waste and water tanks and where will you put the generator Mrs wizard has a design but with it did you and her discuss tank placement because this can change the design with weight distribution also hope Mrs wizard has storage in mind which needs to be designed so items are not shifting during travel... personally I've never owned a motorhome but family member did and used it a few times so I have some clue and the windows maybe something like blinds because tinting is fairly permanent power tinting is pricey but nice to tint and untint at a press of a button would be cool I know there is tons to think about and can't wait to see the finished project

[@jamesfrench7299]

Already looking up since episode 1. May I suggest you install a mechanical hubodometer to the back wheel. They look good and it will record the mileage you have travelled in this bus. They're accurate and proven. I recommend a Stemco brand.

[@clifbradley]

you should look into installing a night vision camera up top, where the signboard was. Some of those mountains, the roads are pitch black and foggy. A night vision camera will come In useful. you could probably do a spotlight, but that won't help in fog. Don't forget exterior lighting so,you can see around the vehicle at night like to work on it, ot just to see what's out there. So besides a backup camera, external cameras, preferably with pan, tilt and zoom, plus night vision ability. Another thing is for yachts, they ma,e drawer style dishwashers. Very small and they are actually more efficient than you washing dishes. Another yachting tip is powered twin beds that can be motored together to make one bed. The final yachting tip is air vents at different heights. Have the air blow out above you, then another vent at shoulder height, or waist height. Cold air sinks,,but if there is a layer of cold air above it, it takes longer to sink, and as hot air rises, it's diffused better.

[@gordduncan5859]

You can lower the load on the A/C by: 1-using metallized film inside the windows to reflect heat and light; 2-use Infra Red and Ultraviolet filtering film on other windows to cut heat gain and colours fading - I recall 3M makes such a film.

[@henshawsm]

CT Transit purchased a handful of El Dorado EZ Riders back in 1999 (back when I was in college and before I had a car). Different configuration than your unit as they had both a rear door and front door. They were purchased to use on some of the shuttle loops and low ridership routes. The drivers hated them and I know CONNDOT ended up getting rid of these early.

[@becbusman7721]

And y'all are doing what my dream is in The very exact same type Bus , I spent many hours in the Drivers seat in a bus like that , thinking how nice it will be to convert a bus like that to my own custom design , to enjoy the Comfort without having to be 10 miles up in the air and enjoying a better comfort being cab over , having a same power as the OTR and being able to pull a big trailer if you need to ,

[@lukeskypwner278]

When you take the rear wheels off for new tires it may be a good idea to clean the inner wheel wells really good then spray a thick coating of rubberized or truckbed like coating. it will help with noise a ton. It will also ensure a good air seal from the elements.

[@jeffhtx]

Wizard, I'm a transit bus tech. Yes B300 Allison transmission are 6 speeds, just not enabled since the governed speed is restricted below effective use of 6th gear. However, the bus is also geared for low speed operations. Likely axle ratio of 4.56 or 4.89, even possibly 5.11 running an ISB. It would be wise to swap to 3.73 for highway use. Will significantly improve MPG and reduce driveshaft RPM. Not super familiar with the El dorado's, but most buses run 12v/24v dc electrical systems. Usually the florescent lighting runs on 24v DC. My experience is mainly with NABI, New Flyer, NOVA, MCI, and GMC RTS.

[@ronjclm8590]

My FAVORITE series. I have basically the same bus. I've already learned a few things. If the scan tool was in your affiliate list I'd help you make a couple of dollars 😁. It was hard to see that it's a Icarsoft HD diagnostic v3.0 tool. I'd like to see the measurements inside your bus. The high ceilings give the feeling of lots of space. I was thinking of window framing that would accomodate insulating celular and or darkout shades. I've seen thin ones in a track on some RV's. And of course for more temperature control on the outside, you can put perforated vinyl that is used in vehicle wraps. In the center of the back wall, have you unscrewed the panel and seen the access to the engine & transmission ?

[@dansmith6909]

There are vehicle cleaning products that will bring that carpet back to its new colour. You said it will be covered but.. the satisfaction of knowing it's squeaky clean... Autosmart's G101 (other cleaners exist) will even take solidified tar off a roadway maintenance van interior at the right concentration. Whilst i'm already making a comment, I do enjoy watching Mrs Wizard projects. Clear and concise explanations, useful tips and a way of thinking and working that i find... educational is the wrong word but it's in the right direction great videos

[@waynekaminski5438]

Great updates on the transmission and engine! That will help efficiency on longer hauls

[@MrCarGuy]

Uh, there is nothing wrong with the florescent tubes and ballasts! Those things are so reliable and you can get different color temperature tubes. Some LED tubes have bad flicker

[@snuffysmiff]

Without space underneath the cabin, I'm curious about where you plan on locating the fresh water tank, the grey water tank, black tank, propane tank, house batteries, etc.

[@ilovetool1]

Can you put a camera on the back to aid in reversing? And you could also put tints/stronger tinting on the windows to help with controlling heat coming in.

[@gudfarfar]

I will suggest painting it white, at least on the top part, and even a roof rack with solar panels would be a good idea, as it takes the sun power and use it to make electricity and not heating your head. The sun will cook you if you don't take precautions against it, so sun shades or sun block film on the windows is also a good idea.

[@MarzNet256]

You could put a low profile (like 12-16" high) storage unit on top of rear wheel well armature then place the mattress on top of it. On one side you could have drawers, one the other a hinged top-for storage versatility.

[@aumetalmental8403]

Keep an eye on your fuel economy before and after power gains. I have a Class A and I did the same tune on my semi. Just get it running where it likes to be, not stupid HP. I actually got a bit better fuel economy in certain situations and even up or negligible at worst. Just find it's sweet spot. More power doesn't always mean worse economy. Good luck. ✌️😎

[@ericgiroux320]

Idea Smartrelay is a modestly priced PLC(Programmable Logic Controller) that can be had in 12/24 VDC power varieties. Could be useful for your AC, etc. We use the 120VAC ones for industrial controls.

[@jamesdelong6401]

This is going to be a, SWEET build

[@Vincent-ke5zn]

I love the great job Mrs Wizard did cleaning the bus, I've said this before, but Mrs Wizard is still beautiful

[@danlove4270]

excited to see this build!

[@bmused55]

Having seen many conversions, I cannot stress how important it is to insulate. You might think you don't need to, but you do. Both to prevent the interior getting too hot and also too cold. You won't believe just how quick these things cool down and get frozen inside in the winter or how quick they heat up. That thin metal skin don't do anything but keep the rain out. They're designed to always be running (engine) so rely on that big aircon unit to remain cool and the heating to remain warm. Just sitting there in an RV park, with a smaller AC setup, you might struggle to keep it cool or warm. The main entrance doors will also not form a proper seal, so in the winter, that cold air will blast right on in. (Many switch out the door for something they can ensure to get a seal with, usually a manual door. Less to go wrong). Take the wall and ceiling panels off and add insulation. Put a reflective film on the windows. You can also get film that helps slow down heat loss. (This is one reason many blank off windows with metal and put in smaller, more energy efficient windows. Can also help with overall weight. Glass is heavy!) Another suggestion would be to add a drivers door or a door beside the passenger. It can double as an emergency exit also. There is no substitute for a proper way out. Relying on breaking glass in an emergency sounds ok, but in a pinch, what if the glass refuses to give?

[@steveshoemaker6347]

That is going to make fine powerful RV.....Thanks y'all 👍👀 Shoe🇺🇸

[@mikemoxley9477]

A fun video, you two ate again showing super team work. Not away the case for many of us.

[@mikemoxley9477]

Are again

[@cyb3rdecker]

🔥Is solar panels something your looking too add on your roof? You'll need a battery bank for that, Also you can put a pop up tent on the roof instead of your bed at the back, giving you more options for a bigger bathroom or a full size kitchen. That bus has so much potential! Love it!🔥

[@etmccaus]

Interested in seeing where you plan on putting things like water tanks and the like...most conversions I see use high-floor buses, which have room under the floor for those sorts of things, but that's not the case on low-floor units like this.

[@craigbathurst1185]

@Car Wizard - you can use right sized boxes to mimic to what ever you want to it to be. Foam core can be used also.

[@russellhltn1396]

A cardboard mock-up is a GREAT idea! I've seen too many times when something looked good on paper had some significant issues when executed. Right off the bat, the passageway on one of your diagrams looks too narrow. 5:51 You may find you can't open drawers or cabinets all the way.