94-97 Honda Accord Steering Rack Replacement Part 2

[@Agent-vj3ns]

I work in a shop. Funny hearing this job done with zero cuss words lol. Thanks for the upload.

[@Rouschaun]

Thank you for all the detail on this video. I was able to replace my neighbors rack & pinion and she's very thankful. I got 2 dinners for the work, which was more than I wanted. All thanks to your video, so I guess I owe you lunch or dinner!

[@robertcetti6935]

I have been working on my 96 Accord LX. I was replacing the clutch. However the steering rack was leaking bad and I had to replace it also. It was a little easier to loosen the power steering lines with the axles out of the way. This video is a great resource for the steering rack replacement.

[@leanavanderbilt3576]

I followed every step and replaced my R&P on a 1994 Accord DX. I can honestly say that if a 52 yo woman can do it, you can do it. Thanks for the video. Looking for more as this is my project car!

[@DzDuran21ALLPLATforms]

Thanks for such a detailed and informative video. Just to let you know, i used this video to do a 99 accord, and with very minor differances, it is the same! Thanks a bunch!

[@ferenkmendez2083]

You save my life with this video. Apreciate your time sharing this video.

[@geologic740]

Well done. Very informative and clear video. You could easily be an instructor.

[@elmano04]

I feel like l'm in a mechanic school just by watching you and l think you should set up a classroom to teach students all them good mechanical tricks too.

[@150drae1]

Thanks for sharing! You have excellent skills and communicate the process well.

[@MarkYurasits]

Outstanding video! Great work! Thank you for your detailed video. This really helps novice DIY mechanics like me! Keep up the good work!

[@steveklopping2812]

Excellent videos! Thank you so much for doing this, you just saved the world thousands of dollars!

[@MRrwmac]

I know it's been a few years since you did this work and made the "excellent" video set. Identification, replace P1 and P2. But I must ask about the pressure and return lines re installation into the rack. On P1 you showed and explained (very well) how to disconnect the lines. However you glossed over reinstalling the two lines. Of course I know it should be just the reverse to reinstall but I was hoping you might tell me what to be cautious of (other than cross threading) and how best to go about it since they were a problem removing? Again, excellent videography, demonstration and explanations!! Thank you so very much for taking the time and trouble to publish for us!

[@armoricain]

Damn, you are good! I subscribed immediately after I watched your videos about replacing a steering rack on an Accord. You remind me a little bit of ChrisFix, if you don't mind my mentioning him. Keep up the good work!

[@joseantoniocalderon299]

Completamente satisfecho. ha sido de una gran ayuda para mi proximo proyecto. Una vez mas, thanks very mush , simple and clear to understand .

[@80s90sfan]

Dude, this is awesome...I can't wait to get under my car and replace this steering rack...😦

[@Touhmonglor]

I did the valve cover gasket and distributer o ring watching your videos already. The leak is by the timing cover and that general area. I lose a quart in 2-3 weeks. I drive a 97 Accord SE w a 2.2L

[@4frodo534]

I have the same thing... I think it's the main seal. Bad news.

[@fgonzalez78959]

Clogged pcv valve can do this..pressure cannot escape

[@stix562]

Just think at 17:17ish if you had measured with a caliper from the end of the inner tie rod shaft to that lock nut - you would have been able to run it down and it would be spot on. just noticed at 38:26 the rear half of that front fender is missing.. How long did it take to replace it ?

[@Bushougoma]

It will never be spot on as the inner tie rod on the new rack won't be the exact same length. Not to mention the tolerances in the rack gear, the mounting holes that bolt the rack housing to the frame, etc. The difference between the toe being in tolerance or out is 0.12 degrees that's around 1/8 th of a degree. It doesn't take much of a manufacturing variance to throw that off.

[@Crankedbikestduio]

Nice lesson...but I did not see where or that you installed the fluid lines....?? did I miss it?

[@Cathoray2012]

Excellent tutorial; thank you!

[@jcharles1470]

Excellent video, thanks a lot for share, I Congratulate you... Step by Step.....Greetings from monterrey mexico...

[@Bushougoma]

Glad I was able to help.

[@jcharles1470]

***** Where are you from? Greetings again..

[@slickrick7763]

Awesome video. This is a true how to DIY.

[@scott33761]

I've watched several of your videos You do a very nice job. I would even let you work on my car.

[@jaequez90]

That was awesome! ! Do you have any videos on replacing the wire that changes the temperature in the car and air compressor?

[@seemoney0314]

Where is that clock spring you lined up at the end? I can’t find that thing anywhere lol

[@seemoney0314]

My 96 does not have that. Man now I’m worried

[@bryanalvarado1910]

so i watched your video witch was really helpful to replace my broken rack from the same year model n i did exactly what u did but now my cruise control n horn dosnt want to work also my srs light popped up i lined my clock spring indicator like u said please help!?

[@Bushougoma]

All 3 of those circuits are routed through the clock spring it is likely that it has failed but you will have to test it. Remove the airbag (follow the service manual instructions) and disconnect the clock spring to main harness connector under the dash. You will need to check for continuity from a clock spring wire on the wheel to the disconnected clock spring harness connector. Pull the single connector off the horn switch and probe it then probe the gray wire on the harness connector you should have continuity. If you don't the clock spring is bad. You can check the other connections if you have a wiring diagram but it's unnecessary as any breaks in the clock spring require replacement. The only way this could have happened is if the clock spring and rack weren't in sync when the u-joint was installed. The wheel should have been turned all the way to the left before the u-joint and the original rack was removed. The steering wheel lock will keep the steering column shaft in this position. Turning the new racks input shaft all the way to the left manually before installation of the u-joint synchronizes the clock spring and the new rack properly. In other words when the clock spring is at the center of it's travel the steering rack will be too.

[@younome1845]

I’m mainly confused on the part where you center the rack, and the clock spring indicator part. Could someone explain that alittle more in detail ?

[@1peanut]

Thank you. this was huge helpful

[@MRrwmac]

You mentioned getting the rack from Autozone but didn't mention the cost if core returned? Also did you get the tie rods there also? I ask because this is an important part and safety hazard if not done correctly. My Honda dealership said not to waste the money and it would cost $700+ to replace. Thank you!

[@GuynelSaintVal]

***** I really need your help on this one, just like you said on 7:45 to 9:19 on this video. now my horn and cruise control doesn't work. what can i do to fix this, I'm not sure if the clock spring damage or something i have a 96 accord 4dr 2.2l

[@Bushougoma]

Are you sure you didn't turn the wheel when the u-joint was off? It's very easy to do that. If they worked previously chances are it's the clock spring if the 96 has a clock spring with an indicator gear and it was indicating it was centered and the rack was centered there should have been no issue. Both the rack and clock spring must be centered. Otherwise the un centered rack will allow you to overturn the clock spring causing damage. The easiest way to test it without a schematic would be to disconnect the battery and allow the vehicle to sit for 20 minutes. Then remove the airbag, steering column covers, disconnect the connectors for the horn and cruise control, airbag, and disconnect the main connector from the clock spring to the vehicle. Then run a continuity check between the connectors on the wheel to the connector where the clock spring connects to the harness. Each wire should have continuity on one pin of the main connector if it doesn't the clock spring is bad.

[@GuynelSaintVal]

***** thanks a lot brother I will try change the clockspring and see if that works. No the rack and steering column wasn't centered reason being after the whole installation I went did 4 wheel alignment I had to hold the steering wheel halfway counter clockwise for the car to drive straight I find out the inner shaft wasn't properly installed

[@Bushougoma]

Guynel Saint-Val Make sure the battery is disconnected for at least 20 minutes so the SRS computers capacitor is fully discharged before removing the air bag. The only special tool you'll need to replace it is a steering wheel puller most auto parts stores will loan the tool for free. You just have to put down a deposit which is usually the value of the tool and it's refunded when you bring it back.

[@GuynelSaintVal]

***** you the man brother, great videos outstanding job, i go head follow your instruction and re-install a new clockspring and viola problem solved. i truly appriciate it and really wants to thank you. funny thing is i paid my mechanic to replace the rack and pinion and he end up messing it up more, it was because of your video i found out what's was wrong.

[@Bushougoma]

Guynel Saint-Val No problem. Thanks for watching.

[@jaberwocky6669]

How do you know so much about cars?

[@4frodo534]

Bousho! I log on to youtube about every week waiting for some new vids. :) I know you're busy, but you have a following, man. Keep on keepin' on! ;) Thanks for all the help so far. I can't wait to see that hub over rotor vid. Peace. - Frodo

[@Bushougoma]

Yeah sorry about that summers been real busy between work and repairs around the house I haven't had much free time. I have a few brake system / ABS related videos in the pipe. Expect the hub over rotor video by the end of September early October. I've really let videos pile up here but I've made time to get caught back up.

[@TheLionwarrior87]

Would this be the same process as a 91 accord LX? I"m changing out the rack and pinion on mine this weekend and I'm hoping it's as easy as you made it look in your video.

[@Bushougoma]

Yes the process is similar.

[@rickm9534]

By chance do you remember the steering racks brand or retailer you bought it through? As well how is that rack holding up, no complaints or issues? Im guessing its a customer car fyi. Looking for a reputable reman/new rack for my honda, A1 Cardone seems really bad by reviews Ive read.

[@Bushougoma]

+Richard McCormick The part was provided to me all I remember is it came from Advance so it probably was a Cardone. No complaints. A rebuilt part is only as good as the core. If you're unlucky you can get a dud from any rebuilder.

[@adamkington]

My 1997 honda accord doesn't have the marks to line up the clock spring. It appears to be a different setup. Any suggestions on how to line it up?

[@Bushougoma]

Rotate the wheel carefully clockwise until it stops then rotate it 2 turns counterclockwise.

[@4frodo534]

***** Again, thanks for taking the time to make these videos and always responding when I have a question. You are a complete badass. I have the same problem as desert rat. My 97 doesn't have the clock spring center indicator. I read this comment above and (with the u-joint disconnected) gently turned my wheel clockwise until it felt like there was some tension. In the process of doing this, I've completely lost my count. It kind of scared me because it felt like it was turning forever....I was terrified I was snapping some wire so I didn't want to do it too much further. I then turned it two rotations to counter-clockwise. With all the clockwise turns, only two back counter clock-wise doesn't seem right. Please help.

[@Bushougoma]

4frodo That's the proper way to center the pointerless clocksprings. If you're really cautious you can remove the steering wheel and turn the clock spring manually. But it's not necessary. You don't need to be super precise. Thanks for the reminder I added an annotation about the 96-97 clocksprings meant to do it after that reply.

[@4frodo534]

***** Awesome! It's all done. Runs like a champ. All told, you've saved me a boat-load of cash. Rebuilt distributor, new belts, oil change, hoses, rebuilt power steering pump, and now the rack. Seriously, thank you.

[@Bushougoma]

4frodo Glad to help. Make sure an alignment is done as soon as possible or you'll be needing new tires next :-).

[@sivucit]

by any chance do u know if the clock spring center indicator is available on other cars like Toyota or Hyndai..

[@Bushougoma]

It varies by vehicle many service manuals will tell you how many turns it takes to center it.

[@ismaelvasquez8848]

I don’t see a clock spring indicator on my 1997 accord EX wagon will that be an issue doing this job can anyone advise.?

[@Bushougoma]

Yeah they removed the indicator on 1996 models you'll have to just do it blind I'm afraid. Lock the wheel all the way to the left before removing the u-joint and you'll be fine. The amount of movement on the steering wheel when it's locked doesn't matter. When those clock springs were new they had a plastic pull tab to keep them centered for installation so they did away with the indicator.

[@Touhmonglor]

Can u do a video on camshaft seal replacement? Mine is leaking.

[@Bushougoma]

Are you sure it's not just a valve cover gasket leak? A leak from behind the timing cover would exit the weep hole at the bottom of the lower cover near the oil pan. The cover halves are designed to channel the oil away from the timing belt so it doesn't get damaged. A leak from the oil pan gasket can also make it's way to this weep hole giving the illusion of a seal leak.

[@Goolkein]

Hey brother what size and length are those rack and pinion bolts for the exhaust hanger mine came loose and now I'm royally Fu@@k

[@vlineguy]

I have a 1998 Acura RL how much difference are there?

[@fredymendez1786]

excellent work. you know very well your job

[@brentgrucella4808]

What is the took specs on the mount

[@laerciocivali]

Nice video, congratulations!

[@axenz1]

I like this and also part 1. :)

[@limitedcarb4013]

1996 honda accord lx. no clockspring indicator. ill rewatch 3 or 4 times before i get started. input? thanks.

[@Bushougoma]

As long as you lock the steering wheel when it's turned all the way to the left and make sure the new rack input shaft is turned all the way to the left when you reinstall the u-joint the clock spring will be properly synced. Centering the wheel is just to make installation of the outer tie rods easier and is optional.

[@truckatone1]

Nice work dude Subscribed 👍👍

[@xart23x]

Damn....I'll gladly pay the mechanic the $400 he quoted me for parts and labor.

[@4frodo534]

This is going to be a long one... bear with me for a minute. It's been about a month since I finished rebuilding my P.S. pump/replacing the steering rack thanks to your badassery. \m/ I also replaced the upper control arms/ball joints, and one of the lower ball joints. THEN I had my alignment done. The knuckles/hub-over-rotors on these hogs are horrible. For the record, the other videos people put up here are pretty lame compared to yours. I had to figure most of it out on my own. :( Anyway, I've noticed my steering is a little harder than it was before. Question 1.) I know the p.s. pump/rack are working, but is it normal for a new (refurbished from napa) rack to be a little harder to turn? Now for the real problem. As I mentioned in my previous comments on this video, I lost track of how many turns without the clockspring center indicator. As you suggested in your reply, I turned it gently until it stopped (made a slight spring noise), counter clockwise two turns, etc. It seemed like I was fine for an entire month....until.... the SRS light came on today. Shit. So far, the cruise control and horn work. I'm assuming the clock spring was tweaked a little too much when I lost track. Question 2.) How screwed am I? Do I dare replace this thing? I found an Evan-Fischer EVA11672041562 Column Clock Spring on amazon for pretty cheap. Question 3.) Am I ok to go with a cheap aftermarket part, or do you recommend an old OEM clockspring from ebay? Please help!! I'm trying to keep this think running as long as I can. Any suggestions on how to go about replacing it safely?

[@Bushougoma]

I intend to release a comprehensive hub over rotor video in the coming months. It's filmed I just have to find the editing time. With all those suspension components replaced it doesn't surprise me the suspension is tighter. Worn components have larger tolerances. It's pretty easy to replace the clock spring. Disconnect the battery and wait at least 3 minutes to discharge the SRS computer capacitor. Pull off the covers on the left and right side of the steering wheel. Then pull off the bottom air bag connector cover (2 screws). Disconnect the air bag and install the shorting connector inside the cover onto the air bag harness. Remove the 2 torx screws on the left and right securing the air bag to the wheel. Carefully remove it and place it FACE UP in a safe place. Once it's off you'll have access to the steering wheel center bolt remove it. Get a punch or marker and mark the relationship between the wheel and the input shaft splines. You can then use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Pull off the lower dash cover and disconnect the clock spring from the harness. It's secured by a few screws. Repeat the process for reinstallation making sure to line up the splines with your mark to maintain steering center.

[@4frodo534]

***** Thanks for the quick response. Should I get the SRS light checked before pulling the wheel off? Any suggestions on where to do that for cheap? And, once I get the clock spring installed, how do I reset the light (safely so the airbag actually goes off - one of the videos on here has a dude using a paperclip).

[@Bushougoma]

4frodo Jump the 2 pin blue connector under the passenger side dash and the SRS light will flash the code. It will probably be a 1-1 open in driver airbag inflator. To erase the code there's a 2 pin connector under the drivers side dash called the MES connector on the yellow SRS harness. There's a very specific sequence to connect and disconnect it to erase the code. Just look up 1997 Honda SRS reset for the details.

[@4frodo534]

***** I jumped the blue and it flashed a 1-2 ("1-1 & 1-2 open circuited Or high Resistance In Drivers Air Bag Inflator"). I wanted to double check that it was really the problem, so I cleared the SRS memory (I'll put this here in case someone else needs to do the same thing): "The Honda Service Manual says: 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and wait for ten seconds. 2. Connect a short to the Memeory Erase Signal (MES) connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. The SRS indicator light comes on for about six seconds and then goes off. Remove the short from the MES connecotr within four seconds after the SRS indicator light went off. 5. The SRS indicaotr light comes on again. Reconnect the short to the MES connector within four seconds after the SRS indicator light comes on. 6. The SRS indicator light goes off. Remove the short from the MES connector within four seconds. 7. The SRS indicator light indicates that the memory is erased by blinking two times. The ten second delay at the beginning is very important or the memory will not reset." It went away until I restarted my car. Same problem. The clock spring is in the mail. Based on everything I've said, does it sound like clock spring is the issue? Before I put any work into pulling the wheel I want to get your professional opinion. I'm driving the '97 SE model, so it has the cruise control on the wheel too. Will I need to do anything special for the horn or cruise wiring? Thanks again for everything, Bousho.

[@Bushougoma]

4frodo The horn and cruise wiring go through the clock spring too nothing special. One connector from the clockspring will go to the air bag and the other will go to the horn / cruise control switches.

[@sidebarr7]

well done my good and faithful mechanix, ,I will use this video to do mine

[@Blockie13]

Don't have a clock spring on my 96....

[@sajadvahedi8288]

Tnx man Tnx a lot.

[@luisrodrigyez6865]

good,job.

[@jdsheets58]

Why is Meineke telling me it's a 5-hour job on my 94 Accord at $100 per hour not including new rack

[@joshsettlemyer7919]

How to hot wire a 97 Honda civic

[@elmano04]

Hey Bushou, Please put some safety glasses on, some debris or oil leak might drop in your eyes.

[@Bushougoma]

I agree rust flakes in the eye is not pleasant. I stepped on them before I began filming believe it or not :-). I filmed a bunch of videos that day that I've already released so I'm sure you'll catch a few more glimpses of me not wearing them. They weren't cheap either last time I leave them on the floor.