BUZZ, WHINE, HISS? How to FIX Car Audio Noise!

One of the biggest things that can destroy enjoyment of an audio system is noise that isn't meant to be there! We don't want to hear alternator noise, static hiss or buzzing. How can we fix it if we do hear this noise in our car audio system? Here's how!
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[@deanawesomer9102]

I had a whine every time I turned up my stereo, so I pulled over and told the wife to get out. Problem Solved

[@gakudzu7282]

😂

[@LooseCannon48]

😂😂

[@randomtube8226]

🤣

[@tanfoglio1]

Gold!!

[@cjxplusone]

😁 Hahah oh no... still married?

[@matealavea3706]

I swear this guy explains things in a very simple way step by step

[@Parabellum-X]

You swear? 😏

[@Jmp1019]

He does! 🤘😎🤘

[@AccessGaming11]

late response but I just got a new JVC aftermarket radio and installed it. I don't have my door speakers or tweeters hooked up to an external amplifier, just the deck. I got it all wired and when I fired the car up, as soon as the radio starts, a loud static/screeching sound plays through my mids and tweets. The tweeters get no music just static, the mids get music and static. I am curious if I should cut the car harness's factory ground wire that is running to the headunit and run a NEW & seperate wire from the headunit to the amplifer's ground? Or should I keep the cars factory harness's ground wire and run a secondary ground wire from the chassis of the headunit to the amplifer? Another question is should i use the radios harness black wire (the ground) to run a new wire to a new ground location or should I just connect it to the radio's chassis and run it to a new ground location? Hard to explain but sounds like I'm riding inside a UFO.

[@2001tclmike]

Mark, your final advice on the ground loop isolator was my problem...you helped me in out where my local car audio shop owner told me it was beyond his knowledge...you are the man thank you for being so smart at car audio

[@emilz85]

Dont they degrade audio quality?

[@CrushingProductions]

@@emilz85 The one's I tried cut a huge portion of the lows out. Basically a highpass on the source signal. I wrote the manufacturer and they said that's how all the passive ground loop isolators work. I was shocked that so many people thought it was an acceptable solution.

[@Pre3minent]

Thanks man. Been watching you for a while now. This really helps my min be at ease. Time to go down the list. Keep up the great work!

[@Danialdaneshmand]

THIS VIDEO WAS NEEDED!

[@jackfisher22]

You've taught me so much! Installed my first amp with ease from watching your vids! Thanks

[@Blakisfoster]

Appreciate the video man, less than 10 minutes and had my speakers sounding brand new. Keep the videos coming

[@mjl7681b]

I've used many different types of GLI's and coming from an electrical background I can say that there is only one true fix for the major of times this issue exists. Having a nice and healthy ground to return your power flow, (though not all the time), is usually the fix for these. A quick and reliable fix is the chassis ground that is manufactured on the aftermarket unit itself. This grounding point is underrated and underused, but is a little bit a gold nugget! Keep up the great work Mark!

[@calabub456]

dude you the man , i did 4 out of the 5 or so wrong ' but you lined me out in under 5 minutes . thanks and im hooked on ya and subscribed .

[@honahwikeepa2115]

Drove 600 KMs home from my son's place. Couldn't get my stereo to go properly. Now I know why. Thanks heaps. Subscribed.

[@magic6947]

Love all the videos and all the builds

[@CarAudioFabrication]

Thanks for watching

[@Spardagus1]

Dude ground loop you nailed it. Thank you so much. Working on fixing this. Using my aux cable

[@zandern9489]

Ahh, the infamous ground issue in aftermarket stereos. Great points sir. Need to check mine, using fm Bluetooth to stock radio for my phone. Powered by the cig lighter- getting feedback from my cars stock electrical system. Will be checking ground on radio, and moving ground on cig lighter for better isolation.

[@markphilpot4981]

Another great video Mark! Great info on problematic components with fixes! This is always a good thing! Keep it up!👍🏻😊

[@scottfisher9437]

L I'll be home

[@scottfisher9437]

Ll Lmk l l

[@jakubsetkowski]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, it will help a lot most of us diy mods.

[@diegoalonso340]

Lots of info and solutions shared. Great video thank you very much !!!

[@smartin4052]

Something that may be helpful to others to note. If you are using a cheap passive (non powered) line out converter off of your factory radio and you install it directly behind the factory radio you may be getting a lot of noise there as well. There are a lot of electrical components going on back there and you can test this just by moving the loc around with the vehicle on and powered up. If your stubborn on using one of these cheaper loc's, you may benefit by extending the speaker wire your tapping into and getting the loc gar away from the back of the factory radio to underneath the glove box compartment for example but not as far as the kick panel because you will generally have huge looms of factory wiring there that can interfere with your signal as well

[@Nuke223]

My converter is in the trunk of my car I'm hearing the power steering and the engine

[@AccessGaming11]

late response but I just got a new JVC aftermarket radio and installed it. I don't have my door speakers or tweeters hooked up to an external amplifier, just the deck. I got it all wired and when I fired the car up, as soon as the radio starts, a loud static/screeching sound plays through my mids and tweets. The tweeters get no music just static, the mids get music and static. I am curious if I should cut the car harness's factory ground wire that is running to the headunit and run a NEW & seperate wire from the headunit to the amplifer's ground? Or should I keep the cars factory harness's ground wire and run a secondary ground wire from the chassis of the headunit to the amplifer? Another question is should i use the radios harness black wire (the ground) to run a new wire to a new ground location or should I just connect it to the radio's chassis and run it to a new ground location? Hard to explain but sounds like I'm riding inside a UFO.

[@aaronperez3693]

Awesome videos, dude. Thanks for the help!

[@kirkabrahamson1148]

Great info as always

[@Mattittas]

I've been struggling with a whining noise (turbo whine?) after upgrading my car audio system this June. I've narrowed it down to being a bad negative from the battery to the chassis. Thanks, Mark! Your video came just when I needed it 😊

[@axelkarv4814]

how much more power did you add when the whining noise started? struggling with the same thing but idk what to think. and when I turn off my amp the noise stops.

[@Mattittas]

In my car it was probably from like 1500rpms and up. At higher rpms I couldn't hear the whining over the engine noise

[@davidmiller7881]

I’m going to be doing “The Big 3” upgrade this weekend and I’m hoping it solves my whine issue. There is slight static in my system when I just have the radio going and when I start the car the whining starts. Hope it works! I’ve tried about everything else…

[@phumudzomartinmulea5474]

I've done the Big 3 and whining is still there but when i connect my Rca straight to the amp there's less noise. I suspected I'm getting noise from My crossover and the Equalizer

[@Jay_556]

@@axelkarv4814 you ever got the issue fix? I'm having this issue now

[@craigbrub]

One other important item I learned when tracking down noise in my speakers: Your RCA cable type DOES matter. There's two types: shielded/coaxial and twisted pair. If your amp has Single Ended (SE) inputs, then you should use shielded/coaxial RCAs. If your amp uses Differential Inputs (DI), then you should use twisted pair. My amp used SE inputs, but I was using a twisted pair RCA. Swapping over to a shielded RCA fixed my noise issue. Symptom I has was a constant, high pitched whine, regardless if car was on or if music was playing. I performed all the tests in this video and everything checked out, so it really came down to either my headunit or my RCAs. It was the RCAs.

[@deanstuder1775]

Very good to know this. Thanks for sharing.

[@adyandrey23andrey]

Thanks for sharing. Luckly I have two different RCA cable types running to my amp. Standard for Sub and Twisted for speakers. I'm going to switch them up and see if this fixes it. Gonna come back with the results

[@sgtduckyboy64]

Quick question for you since I'm experiencing something similar. I installed a new head unit and a new amp along with two new speakers paired with two existing speakers. The stereo runs fine the amp turns on a few seconds after the stereo there are no issues. Everything plays fine. But when I replaced my headlight from a stock model to an aftermarket LED model, I get a whirring noise. I believe it's a noise of some sort. As I turn the lights from high and low the wiring noise can change and as I turn the headlights off and leave the DRLs on the noise goes almost away completely. If I disconnect the lights the whirring is gone. I'm not blaming the LEDs yet but I feel like either the wires or putting off some noise next to my RCA cables going into the amplifier or to the wires going to the speakers. Should I try disconnecting one set of wires at a time? Like remove one's RCA at a time and then remove one set of speaker wires at a time to see if one of those is catching the interference? It's very tight in the fairing of these motorcycles. I know what can be done correctly where things are kept separated I'm just not there yet with my installation. Thanks for any help you can offer

[@ratherbe7]

Awesome advice. Thank you

[@CVObservatory]

Yes, once. No matter what I did I could not remove it until I got a RCA ground loop isolator. This was back in 1989 in a 76 Vega. I think I bought the thing at Radio Shack.

[@msnow22000]

I bought Radio Shack RCA’s back in the early 90’s. Heavy duty, gold plated with noise suppression. I’m glad I hung on to them and eventually found them. My alternator whine is gone and signal to my sub amp is fully restored without a ground loop isolator. I used Kicker RCA’s for my Alpine 6 1/2’s on an MTX Thunder 2 channel, and Radio Shack RCA’s with a small terminating RCA by Monster cable on my Skar 2000.1d feeding 3 DB drive 10’s. Just remember to do what this guy says and keep your RCA and power cables on opposite sides of the vehicle. And use really good RCA cables. This is where a lot of people mess up when doing their own installs.

[@1nevi]

I don't have a car stereo, in fact I don't have a car. I don't know how I ended up watching this video..

[@dylanfougere3015]

Lmaooo this made me laugh

[@miababeeb1580]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@johnnyr3105]

😆

[@tatialo37]

Lucky you!!! You are not spending money!!!

[@polasnoob]

i pray for you

[@vadikvadik753]

Thank you very much for the information, I do have this noise in my car , and now I know how to get it out from my system)

[@patriot1303]

Great video ez to understand and stuck to the topic in the title description- liked and subbed

[@tjp5457]

i just want to say thank you for fully explained all of the possibility of the noise made from.

[@stathisbikos6563]

I actually went a different way with this. I had very bad noise when I installed a bluetooth audio receiver, but instead of using the filter I build an induction power module out of a phone induction charger building kit and a stepdown voltage regulator and i put everything in a 3d printer case. It severed the ground in the power input instead of the audio line so no ground loop, no noise and no reduction in sound quality whatsoever.

[@jessejamesjohnston]

Thank you!

[@colthenrie1631]

@CarAudioFabrication, thank you for all the useful videos. I am about to run electric lines in my van conversion and need to run some power cables near my speaker wire (not signal wire). Does that create noise as well? I assume yes. If so, could I add a shielding wire loom on my speaker wire to help? Thanks!

[@jeffthoms85]

I just wanted to thank you very much for your informative videos. I decided that my 11 Caddy speakers were dying and needed to be replaced. I didn't realize that meant an avalanche of problems doing so. First the new tweeter blew, then the Metra conversion box blew 3 TIMES and then the amp went to hell. After I figured everything out, I had a terrrible hissing sound. I watched your videos on solving it and not only did the hissing go away but the sound improved. Thanks a lot for doing them.

[@michaelmcginnis3552]

I had noise and absolutely everything checked out perfectly. Turns out it was the head unit itself that was causing it. New unit no noise. It's worth keeping a known good hu on hand for testing.

[@rustamhusenov]

Thank you for video lessons! 👍💪👌💖

[@joseluisruiz3789]

Sweet! Awesome knowledge to go with my Coffee. You are always Awesome.

[@notabhi01]

_This was pretty helpful_

[@jred23pyro]

Hey do you sell custom boxes? I remember you plugging it in an old video.. it's for a skar vvx 10 v3.

[@Escko]

Glad I came across your channel. You got a new sub!

[@406Steven]

I like to have all of the wires together in a nice, contained package so I used to tie in to the factory ground when installing an aftermarket head unit and every single one of them ended up with noise. Running a separate ground to a good spot on the chassis has eliminated that though it gives me one more loose wire to tie up.

[@Wilson_Racing]

Another issue could be a popping sound when changing sources on a aftermarket head unit. I have that issue and a very slight whining with the radio at 0 volume. I'm not too worried about the whining because its so faint and cant be heard with music playing

[@RYTHMICRIOT]

The most difficult noise issue I've ever dealt with was a popping sound when turning off my stereo. I don't use the speaker outputs from my head unit so I knew it was coming from the amps. I initially believed it was ground related and tried multiple attempts at improving ground connections to no avail. I even swapped out my RCA cables which fixed nothing. In the end the cause was my headrest monitors which were powered on by the remote turn on from my head unit. Electrical issues can be such a pain to deal with. If you're persistent you can get through it.

[@travisclouse2744]

Use a relay to power headrest monitors never use remote turn for anything more than turning on 2-3 amps , if you have this problem other wise properly use a relay or capacitor inline with the remote wire .

[@williamprice4269]

Thank you Mark!!!

[@Studpum]

Awesome! I’ve recently installed an aftermarket head unit and all was well before the install, but now I definitely have a very noticeable whine and hiss. I’ll try doing a proper ground instead of using the existing harness ground and see how that goes.

[@sssnake2332]

Did you fix it with a new ground connection? I'm currently trying to figure it out with my new headunit as well and really don't want to have to ship it back to China.

[@mlp2012]

@@sssnake2332 ever figure it out?

[@adyandrey23andrey]

I love comments saying "I'm gonna try this and that" and then they proceed to do it and completely forget to post the solution, cuz now their issues are gone 😢

[@vash882]

ANC Mics will also cause whining or a "robotic buzz" when listening. Ambient Noise-canceling microphones(ANC Mics) are designed to get rid of any noises that the factory head unit and ANC unit deem not part of the stereo output in order to make the ride seem a lot quieter than it really is. It sends the "opposite" sound out in order to cancel out any unaccounted noises. So if you install subs or a multichannel amp to add extra sound, your ANC system is going to try an cancel it out unless disconnected. Most of the time you can find the ANC module and just unplug it or else you have to cut the mic wires(and I don't recommend it if you don't have to, those things are expensive to replace). A lot of newer(let's say after 2013) might have this, new hondas, certain GMs, etc.

[@estuardoerazo9998]

Hi! Love your videos! I have a factory Head unit into a Bit DMI into a Bit One DSP which feeds a JL amp for the 4 door speakers & a Sony amp for 2 custom speaker pods. One of the speaker pods is making a whining noise. Shop says it’s because the magnet is too close to some of the car’s other electronics. Is there anything you can think of that I can place between to shield the speaker? The noise drives me so crazy I’m ready to put a slab of lead back there. Help!

[@bjornroesbeke]

I've tried a ground loop isolator once but removed it later because some of the frequencies were attenuated too much.

[@dragonsystems5973]

In my previous car I had installed an in car computer, it was a fairly complex set up and I always had some level of noise using an aux cable, however, on a lot of modern aftermarket nav units you are now getting an HDMI input, When switched to using that as the audio source all the issues went away

[@maxbroome8172]

Great info as usual Mark. Really enjoy the knowledge and how to’s you share with us. Great job 🤙🏻🤙🏻

[@jisr95]

Hi, I installed an amp in my car with high level inputs cables directly to the amp (keeping the factory stereo) and I get a lot of static using the radio, CD or aux. I have a ground cable bigger than the power cable. What should I check? The ground cable is bolted really tight.

[@khamtp42]

you are awesome man , good video love it. thank you

[@hrisheetbarve1375]

Great vid and very effectively explained

[@joer5000]

What do you recommend if the whine is coming from the power wires?

[@2Fast4YouCL]

Very educative video :)

[@michaelgregory8997]

I have a static noise coming through my speakers and my stereo is stock so i used an rca converter and ive tried disconnecting the rca cables but the static is still thrre im not sure how to resolve this

[@ryanjesse4159]

I love you! Simple and to the point.

[@valentinmanso1532]

Definitely having this issue need some advice

[@datcats]

A couple times in my competition systems. I solved one issue by switching from rca to optical and on another system reversed the direction of my stinger 8000 rca cables

[@aps5150]

I had maddening sounds coming out of the headphone port on the iMac I used at work which was solved with a ground loop isolator as well.

[@CarAudioFabrication]

That little isolator can solve so much

[@icyourbrainsskar1082]

I had a headache before, your vids. 💯👍

[@lhauntedlhouse]

I got one after, the vids

[@rurutherussian]

I love you, Mark😭 Thank youuuuuu

[@isaac198428]

Dude! You’re speaking to me. That whiny noise when I accelerate… I had my subwoofer/amp and aftermarket radio installed by a so called professional audio store. It’s very frustrating having those weird noises because they didn’t tune my system correctly like you said. I didn’t get a box and had my subwoofer mounted in the factory ‘hole’ behind my back seat since my car was a base model with no subwoofer but has a built in hole with a plastic cover. I also think the amp is mounted on the frame with metal cover it came with. Everything you’ve talked about in the video is exactly what’s happening.

[@brycesolomon8018]

I currently have a very loud hiss accompanied by a whine that matches rpm. I have a 2ga big 3, 4 ga power wire, 4 ga ground ran through the body and bolted directly to the frame. I cleaned off all the paint, used a self tapper through the solid copper wire lug, then painted over it afterwards. Im using high quality RCAs, and an RCA noise filter. Still having issuee

[@vash882]

I get distortion in the highs on my Bluetooth adapter when the BT volume is all the way up on my phone. I find that turning the volume down to 75ish% on my phone usually solves the problem. Another thing I've seen in some Fords is popping when changing the source when an aftermarket head unit is installed. Some fords need a couple resistors connected to the factory amp turn on and grounds in a particular way because the factory amp doesn't like a full 12v signal.

[@shafikbanialmrjehkassar4640]

Thank you :)

[@extrememod_ahu]

Thank you for the video. How come you didn't include Noise Suppressors that many aftermarket head units require to eliminate noise?

[@gjkrisa]

Mine was from using high level input from deck so I got RCA's and haven't had the issue

[@jerichotm2122]

Thanks for this video (by the way, you're doing a great job by showing us everithing that you do in car audio, and the explanations are so detailed and clear)! I have a issue with an aftermarket navigation system, by trying to connect the remote amp wire to a small 150W amplifier thats going to power up a small sized subwoofer. That amplifier needed a step up voltage device because it needs 24V to reach the above mention power. I didn't test it in the car, but instead I was trying to replicate the wiring system from the car, by using a small 12V battery to power the navigation and the stepup, and I used the negative pole of the battery for both, to avoid the ground loop.... the problem is that I cannot do the same for the ampifier since the power (+ and -) is comming directly from the step up! Do we have a ground loop here? Besides the noise is too loud... and I have noticed interruptions in music that I played, especially when I turned up the volume... maybe due to the low current of the battery?!? (7.2 A so it says)... anyways, that step up has a pretty large coil and I've tryed to putted farther away from the amplifier or to position it perpendicular to it, and still having the same noice! This navigation has a subwoofer out RCA and I connected it to the amplifier through a double shielded RCA cable! The output of the amplifier and the subwoofer speaker are connected by a proper speaker cable! I don't know what to do anymore... if you or anyone has any thoughts, please, I apreciate any help! Thank you!

[@deanstuder1775]

Stop using free junk. You have a 12 volt auto, get a 12 volt amp. Never mind the 24 volt crap that is wrong for the application and you won't have any fixing required.

[@jerichotm2122]

@@deanstuder1775 in other words I should get an amplifier that has the power required using ONLY 12V!? The truth is that I was okay with the amplifier that needed 24 V to operate, since I have found a step-up within a board of an amplifier of a factory subwoofer (audi A3)... and I thought that this is what needs to be done in my case...

[@januarymorris9087]

I have had noise in the past, one was from the vehicle's electrical system specifically the alternator for whatever reason the alternator was putting out a noise because it was starting to fail so replacing that solved the problem and I also had another issue with the ground wires like you were describing, I had to find the ground wire that was the issue and repair it's connection because it wasn't getting good contact with the metal on the car

[@nazgto]

I have alternator nosie should I use the the ground switch on my lc7i will that help

[@mau5lover2000]

Yep, glad I found this video it's like it was meant for me to find it because I've just got two new amplifiers and mounted them under my driver's seat. I previously had an alpine amplifier under my seat with no issues and the bass amp was in back with the subs. I went with the db drive motorcycle amplifiers which have more power and take up much less space than the other ones but now I've got alternator whining I did re locate the ground connections a few times and it did quiet down a little but the noise is still there. I've grounded both amps to the left rear bolt that holds the seat down it may be a bad spot there but I'll try every thing else mentioned in this video, I have not upgraded my battery ground or engine ground I could always try that as well. The noise isolator device will be my last resort option. If any of you have helpful tips for me please let me know I'm all ears since i'm still somewhat new to this hobby.

[@cossieburner]

Yes my last system had noise I tried the usual and turned out to be an rca lead the last thing I tried 🤷‍♂️

[@barneslawntree4877]

Dealing with hiss right now. Going to install wire ferrules tomorrow on everything. I know I know, should have done that in the first place. 💀 Your videos are the best man. Every video with knowledge is appreciated greatly.

[@peytonl.8903]

Thank you!!! You explained it exactly how I would .. and another thing that people don’t offer as a solution is adding a ground to the Aftermarket HU. That is something I do during my installations, extra security.. I love it..

[@harveyisidro3069]

where is the link

[@bumpincar]

Been struggling to determine if the slight hiss I have with everything on but no sound playing is normal and my standards are too high, is an install issue, or a function of equipment with a less than stellar SNR. I’ve tried all sorts of things to test the install. Been wondering if a line driver between my DSP and amps let’s me keep gains at lowest setting and problem not noticeable or if it’s time to upgrade to better amps.

[@andrewiggins9820]

I love your videos you have all the answers 🤛🏽

[@CarAudioFabrication]

Thank you

[@kingofcelts]

What knowledge, top man..!

[@jonatanfolkesson3181]

I had some noise yes, what did I do to fix it? Well basically I went back to this video and tried all things you said and now I have no noise:). thank you.

[@swatz22]

I'm having whine noise from my eq once I start turning volume up and is getting closer to max volume

[@rogueghost2012]

I have an issue with crackling sounds in my tweeters and midrange components. It’s been doing it since day one and they were a brand new set wired into the factory head unit. I’m not sure if it will get better or worse after I install the amp for them. My sub/amp works just fine with no noise or crackling sounds.

[@wellendowedforu]

Hell tbh I just installed a dvd player in my car and now I have static and I cant find it I'll try this and c if I can figure out where it's coming fro nvm cause its driving me nuts

[@definitehotshotwill]

Hey Mark, you are the perfect guy for me to ask this question. I installed a pioneer headunit in my truck but now my door chime is extremely loud. What wire can I disconnect to stop the door chime?

[@CarAudioFabrication]

Did you use a seperate integration harness? If so you can usually turn down the chimes on those. Check the instructions

[@anthonyjurai8291]

Can you do a video on how to install a crossover please it will be very helpful for me

[@TANKE1323]

right on dude good shit

[@matthewweisdorfer7757]

I have speaker thump when the after mkt step & amps wake up. How do you fix this ?

[@reddiegaming195]

Thanks for explaining i recently bought one of those screens that connects to the current radio stereo and the whining and static noise drove me crazy while its connected via aux, i switched and connected them via FM and both issued went away, at least now i know why i can hear it more when am accelerating!

[@ashtonmurch2142]

Mark I'm going nuts trying to set the gains on my Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp. Every time I try to measure it with my o-scope it's reading some whack 8khz Signal or even higher when I play my 1khz test tone. On my old car I've never had a problem. Have you ever run into an issue like this? When I test the RCA signal it reads perfectly.

[@bigfoot1658]

I turned my car off but i left my stereo on and I volume out with out any music and that's a weird noise come out from the speakers

[@erikavonmuegge]

Same

[@easywin5688]

i have the same problem

[@JM-yx1lm]

I dont have the same problem

[@cbuts05]

Anyone find how to fix it lol

[@underscore-psn]

i remember having a whining noise in the back passenger side of an 1999 audi a4, idk why it started, but it would get louder with acceleration, and wasn't present if the key was only in auxiliary, i have no experience troubleshooting so i just unplugged that speaker and started reading and watching.. this video had some good info

[@OctaneStreet]

Like many others I also have a 'alternator whine' noise after installing my Pioneer head unit. Not too good with all this wiring stuff, but based on your video it seems like I have a bad ground... Does this, or will this affect the life of my alternator if unchanged? Will it damage my head unit or car's stereo system? Wondering if it's just a 'harmless' noise or if a bad ground is something that can cause further damages.

[@nader2627]

Can you do a video on best ground locations on a pickup truck ?

[@aleyer_s]

Great video! I knew it all but it was still interesting to watch. I'm going to install a small amplifier in a few days. I wonder if I could install it avoiding the ground loop issue at the first attempt.

[@anastasiasdad936]

Used to get road noise all the time kept grounding out my RCA’s quick fix was replacing them.

[@Joka4really]

What about when you’re connected via Bluetooth and hear a hiss or whine

[@moro4617]

Experiencing the same thing, planning to disassemble my head unit in order to check if the bluetooth adaptor is integrated or ir can be replaced. If possible I m planning to add a ground loop on the adapter.

[@MrAaqibUsman]

@@moro4617 how did it go?

[@MrAaqibUsman]

I've just looked online for a usb ground loop isolator and found a couple because for me the whine noise only happens when I've got my Bluetooth on and my usb plugged in to charge my phone

[@richardtheart1584]

My problem came from the extended gain wire the the tiny wire's tend to loosen after a few months .....are ther upgrades for the gain wire and gain knob

[@decid3]

Hey, thanks for the info! Yes. I have noise in my system and after watching this, I think I know what's wrong! The mounting screws for my amp are not only into to the board on the back of my rear seat, but I actually made sure they went all the way through the board and into the metal in the seat-back. I'll bet that is grounding the amplifier's metal casing. I'll find out soon enough! Thanks again!

[@deanstuder1775]

Me too

[@vinarabe]

Thanks for the info, Mark! I will get this fixed now! :)

[@oOWN3Do]

perfect timing as i am having some interference with my new setup. i also have a bump/buzz noise which happens on start up and shut down. i spoke to a Audison rep which had said new fords (and other brands) do a system check which sends power to speaks and make this noise (may i add that the system check can also happen in the middle of the night while your not in the car and in some cases has resolved in the sub/speakers blowing) the solution for this is audison uss4 universal speaker simulator. mines arriving next week and will reply if all go's well.

[@freshone9620]

Before you turn off your Ride.Try Lowering the GAIN on Amp. I have that PROBLEM ASWELL. IT IS ANNOYING AND I HAD IT PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED & when I put GAIN ☝ UP IT SOUND'S 👍 GOOD. BUT ONCE I PARK & SHUT OFF ENGINE. THAT CRAP CAN SCARE THE HELL OUT OF YOU....

[@esmokebaby]

You didn't reply did it work

[@ch0s3n.1]

When it’s cold my bass starts buzzing. Do I need to get new stereos ?

[@oldfag_adventures]

how cold? does the whine go away after a little while of running the speakers?

[@dougiestewart8765]

hi there, thanks for all the wise car audio info! i am looking to install a 12v studio monitor system in my studio in my ambulance conversion. i need a very characterless amp that will give me a very precise and clear sound through the monitors which will have a flat frequency response. have you ever seen a system like this before? would you advise to go for this approach rather than mini active monitors like most mobile studios have? i wanted to avoid this to avoid the inverter for efficiency reasons. any advice/ reccommendations would be epic thank you!! cheers!

[@cboyamg]

Its not just the quality of RCA but type and matching them with the type of signal input you amps and output from your componnents are built upon. If your head unit uses unbalanced (many do) and your amp has balanced inputs. (About 85% of amps use unbalanced generally higher end amps use balanced) look into audio control as i think eveything they make has the ability to change from balanced to unbalanced output with internal jumper. 1. Balanced input is where the shield of the input is isolated from the negative power input or the metal chassis of the amp. These setups youll want to use twisted pair RCA 2. Unbalanced input is where the shield of the RCA is NOT isolated and shows continituity with the negative power input and metal chassis of the amp. These setups use a coaxial style RCA.

[@chipirriti]

this is nonsense, RCA are always unbalanced. go read what balanced means

[@cboyamg]

@@chipirriti maybe you should. Balanced is short for balanced-differential. Unbalanced is just a name for single-ended or ground-referenced inputs. I didn’t make up the terminology I just know the facts. Do your research

[@dogger2186]

How about a video on Tune-On Pop?