Ender 3 V3 Plus: Unbox, Build, Setup, Print!

[@TapticDigital]

It’s nice to see Creality adopting better hardware! Great unbiased review Bryan, always look forward to your videos!

[@markhull9579]

I am really considering getting this printer

[@BlondieSL]

Did you get it? I just got mine last week, liked it so much that I got a 2nd one. These print the best prints I've ever seen.

[@mcorrade]

Bryan can you use other slicers i.e. Cura

[@BV3D]

Hi! You can 100% use other slicers to create G-code files for the Ender-3 V3 Plus, but at this point in time you'll have to create the printer profile yourself, or find one that somebody else has made. The Ender-3 V3 Plus (along with the Ender-3 V3) aren't in Cura yet. There IS an Ender-3 V3 SE in Cura, but it's a slightly different printer. It might work as a starting point, though!

[@LoveToRelax]

Newbie question... Help! I just got my Ender 3 V3 Plus today and I love it! I put it together, turned it on, and WHAM! Printed the Blendy with no problems. BUT... I'm stuck! I cant seem to figure out how to print anything from any of the other 3d models I downloaded. There has to be something really simple that I'm missing, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what it is. I can copy files onto the zip drive that came with the printer, but the printer's computer doesn't see them. I tried using a different zip drive, but same thing... I plug the drive into the printer and is shows as being empty... no files. What am I missing? Any help or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!

[@BV3D]

Hi! If you're copying the STL files to the flash drive / card that came with the printer, that may be the issue. The printer can't print an STL file directly. The file needs to be converted to G-code, and that conversion is done by software called a Slicer. The slicer software included with recent Creality printers is "CrealitySlicer." It's usualy on the card or flash drive that came with the printer, but you can also download the most recent version from www.creality.com/pages/download-software Once you've got that software installed, launch it, and during the first run you can pick what kind of printer you've got, Then, in the main window of the software, you can drag your STL file in, choose your quality settings, and slice it. Then save the resulting G-code file to the card or flash drive that came with the printer. Move the card back to the printer, and you should be able to print the file from there. Hopefully that gets you going in the right direction!

[@LoveToRelax]

@BV3D Thanks!! I had d/l'd the latest Creality slicer from their website, but didn't see how to convert the .stl to .gcode. I'll check it out!!

[@LoveToRelax]

Hi Bryan, well... it would seem that I'm either blind or stupid... but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to convert my .stl to .gcode in the Creality software. There HAS to be something super obvious that I'm just not seeing, but I can't figure it out. Any and all suggestions would help immensely! And THANK YOU in advance. You've already been a huge help. -brian

[@LoveToRelax]

Ok... so, I found a workaround, while I continue to figure it out. I can create the .stl, then use Cura to slice and convert it to .gcode. I've done two different prints and it seems to work fine. Cura doesn't yet list my exact printer, but I selected the V V3-pro and it worked! I found the Creality forum, so I'm pretty sure I'll find the answers there. :) Thanks again!

[@TsiolkovskySportingLocks]

great video as always - just wondering what it will take for creality to change their naming convention

[@BV3D]

Thanks! And I have no idea. Did you know Creality currently has TWELVE Ender-3 variants currently for sale on their site? TWELVE!

[@TsiolkovskySportingLocks]

@@BV3D mad, totally mad... it is getting so confusing for EVERYONE

[@promanpro4453]

Thank you so much. Without you I would be able to work this thing❤

[@BlondieSL]

I wonder if you are like me. My old printer was a serious POS and I always had to tweak it to get any decent prints from it. When I got one of these, I expected to start the tweaking regime over again. But NOPE! This machine is so user friendly. There's not much to have to learn, other than putting the filament spool on the top rail (or a separate stand) and then making a wire to move the runout sensor. I've actually been able to finally print things that I've wanted to print with a nice finish.

[@BlondieSL]

I just got 2 of these. I originally just got the 1 and just loved it so much that I got a 2nd one. LOL As for the magnetic plate, it's actually reversible, as I found out. One side is textured, while the other side is smooth. In the slicer, you can actually select which side you'll be printing to. Pretty cool, actually. So at 7:00 you see him remove the screen protector with the big yellow warning sticker! On the 1st printer I got, that's how it was. But on the 2nd one, I guess someone at the factory forgot to put the plastic protector of it and stuck that stupid yellow stick right to the screen! IT WAS A HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE to get that off of that! I almost thought that I'd have to return this for another one. But, with patience, I got it off and the display is clean and works fine. BUT, on that same machine, once I got it together and started to do the first runs with it, if FAILED the self check!!! Of all things, it complained about the PCB fan! I'm a tech, so no problem just taking the back off. It turns out that the plug on the fan was not pushed tight into the motherboard. It just fell off. I just pushed it back on tightly, put the bottom back on and the self-check passed. On the 1st machine, the issue there was the tiny little connector for the top limit switch. The wire with the female pin was out of the connector! I had to use my big magnifier to see it up close, only to discover that the little locking tab was pushed down into the pin! Therefore, not only would it not lock into its connector, but the male pin on the other connector couldn't slide into the connector due to the pin being pushed down. I was able to push the pin back up into its position. Then, I noticed that the male pin, in fact, was pushed up (bent) which means that at the factory, SOMEONE saw this issue but didn't address it. THAT IS POOR QUALITY CONTROL in both of these cases! As for the latest slicer, I did download that rather than using what's on the USB key. It's 5.1.4 and now, looks nothing like version 4! Ver 4 had a Cura feel and flow to it. This 5.1.4 thing, while it works beautifully, is not user friendly. It does take some getting used to as things are no longer in logical locations. THIS IS IMPORTANT.... for those who want to get the Nebula camera. First, it works well. I ordered a 2nd one for the other machine. But here's a fun fact! There's only 1 USB port on this printer and I wondered if a tiny, old USB hub I had laying around would work. Well, IT WORKED! I have both the USB key and the camera plugged in and it just works. Wonderful machine, especially after dealing with a nasty Wanhao D9 MK2 400.

[@CyPhErJuS]

Great video! The specification does not mention ASA filament, but is it possible to print from it on this printer?

[@BV3D]

Hi! The nozzle can hit ASA temperatures, but the bed, maxing out at 100˚C, might not get quite as hot as ASA would like. You might also need to park the printer in an enclosure to hold in the heat and minimize drafts that could cause the ASA to split along layer lines or warp.

[@getbent57]

The naming scheme on these machines is very confusing .

[@BV3D]

I agree, given they've got twelve different models actively for sale under the Ender-3 badge!

[@THOR_THE_GOD]

Agreed lol

[@StewKeto3DPrinting]

The runout joke *never* gets old. (rimshot) It's nice to see the build process, too. I wonder when Creality is going to go with line voltage for the bed instead of 24VDC?

[@BV3D]

Hi Stew. For the past year or so I've deferred to the manufacturer's build videos that they include on whatever media comes with the printer. But this time, I felt like showing the build and the setup. No idea on whether they'll ever switch to mains voltage instead of 24V though. Thanks for watching!

[@StewKeto3DPrinting]

@@BV3D I gotta say I prefer to see the end users putting the rigs together. The manufacturer ones are so staged and have really, really bad music. Some of my favorite assembly ones are Tim at TH3D. Strap in for at least an hour.

[@shannim5]

Great video, Bryan! I noticed the support brackets have a threaded bolt at the end. Do the instructions mention anything about ensuring squareness between the vertical gantry and the base and adjusting the supports as necessary?

[@BV3D]

Hi, the instructions didn't mention adjusting them. I assumed they were set at the factory, since the left and right sides are marked. I just checked mine with a small machinist's square, and they seem to be right on at 90 degrees. I can't guarantee this wasn't purely by chance, though. So being able to adjust them if needed is handy.

[@MrAlan1828]

Deciding on a K1 Max or Ender 3 V3 Plus, All I see is cased and uncased design but the price difference if huge. I would like to match it with a K1 but can't justifice the price vs this, Bryan what is your take beween the two? Thanks for the pleasant video

[@BV3D]

Hi! The build volumes are pretty close between the two, so besides the price difference, the K1 Max would give you the ability to print materials that prefer being in a heated enclosure (ASA, ABS, stuff like that). I guess it depends on what you're wanting to print. I rarely stray beyond PLA and PETG myself, but when I print stuff like CF Nylon, it's on my Bambu Lab printers.

[@bruceyoung1343]

I’m still using the grandfather to the V3. Except mine has used a kit to give it a 300 x 300 x 380 with a mini E3V3 mainboard. 120v 750 watt bed heating up a Fulament flex bed. Love it

[@BV3D]

Those are some significant upgrades! Was that an Ender Extender kit?

[@bruceyoung1343]

@@BV3D yes it was. I wanted the 400x400 size. But the book cabinet I made was too small for the 400. Stick out too far. I’ve been happy with 300. LOL I LOVE to work on cars. So now I’m retired and no car, this printer I love to tinker with

[@LoveToRelax]

Thanks for the great video, Bryan. Such a big help!

[@evidentloss]

@3:27 Wooooo! This is what I keep coming back for!

[@BV3D]

Haha! Thanks! 😄

[@benitad3374]

How do you install the led light 24v to this printer and also is there a better firmware for this?

[@MakerMindNexus]

I give this video a big A+ good sir. Another great video.

[@BV3D]

Thanks, Dan!

[@ronm6585]

Thanks Bryan. Looks pretty good.

[@BV3D]

Hi Ron! You're welcome!

[@heatedpoolandbar]

I'm kinda torn between this and an SV08. I own a V3 SE and I like it so I want to stick with Creality but the larger buildplate of the SV08 is very tempting.

[@devinkrike5968]

the solution for the spool issue could be to just use drybox. It kills 2 birds with one stone, dries the fillament for better prints and solves the potential tangling problem.

[@LoveToRelax]

Thanks!

[@maxharnisch314]

Why fy ?

[@Karaon]

i would hide something green

[@David-ty6my]

Just get the A1 Combo in the sale. It's not as big, so I guess if you REALLY need that size alright, but if you don't either save money and go with just the A1 or for around the same price get A1 Combo. It's worth it, great quality prints and I didn't even have a single failure after printing 20+ (a 2-3kg) full build plates. There is a big Panda in the room, and Creality needs to step up their game.

[@THOR_THE_GOD]

Bambu won't make anything over 256 × 256. I make repeating crossbow guns. Some of my frame parts, even diagonally fill 300 × 300 beds. Also, many people need bigger printers for helmets and other large projects.

[@larsgibson1915]

Bought the plus to go with my normal sized v3. WAAAAY TOO LOUD, And sounded like metal on metal grinding. It was sent back.

[@innui100]

It's a good bit louder than my bambu A1. I wish they'd turn that fan off when it's done printing too. The A1 does, I would think it's possible on the ender 3 v3's too.

[@larsgibson1915]

@@innui100 oh it was a good bit louder than my regular v3 that was right next to it. The plus had like a grinding noise from the front stepper motor

[@makerus]

Show how to print ABS on it.

[@THOR_THE_GOD]

ABS IS GARBAGE. 🗑 USE PLA+

[@prerecordedresponse9884]

I'm sure this will work for the long haul, but $500 for an open air printer stings a bit. $600 for a fully enclosed P1S makes more sense imo.

[@THOR_THE_GOD]

Bruh.. BED SPACE. [300 × 300]

[@AaronBittenbender]

Sound like a Bambu lab printer or knock off. Lmao

[@AaronBittenbender]

That’s me🤥

[@MannyCo]

I can't understand why anyone would get this over the Bambus.

[@prerecordedresponse9884]

Only if you wanted the 300 cubed build area. But yeah, I'd rather have the fully enclosed P1S for 600.

[@MannyCo]

@@prerecordedresponse9884 I feel bad for all these content creators because there's always new products out there and the companies will send them out for review, but honestly how can anyone recommend anything else at the moment. Bambu kind of killed the competition with true forever birthday prices. Can't tell anyone to go get the Prusa mini because of the A1 mini. Same for any medium bed slingers, A1 is hard to beat. Then pure workhorse, P1S. It's gotta be tough to be unbiased, no?

[@StaticM223]

Another fan boy that will continue with unnecessary brand favoritism

[@THOR_THE_GOD]

I just did. Because Bambu won't make anything over 256 × 256. I make repeating crossbow guns. Some of my frame parts, even diagonally fill 300 × 300 beds. Also, many people need bigger printers for helmets and other large projects.

[@gregrice3578]

You can do a helmet on the p1s if you angle it right. Saturdaymorningprops does em. Also justgee3d I believe as well he has the x1 carbon