Unleashing The Creality Ender 3 V3 Plus: Is It Worth The Hype? Catch Our Review!

[@diatryma693]

I really enjoyed watching this video and learned some new things as well :) thanks!

[@Gyvalor]

Always great content. Thanks for your time.

[@Irek_Poland]

Umieszczenie szpuli na górze nie spowoduje wibracji kolego. Przeciwnie, ustabilizuje konstrukcje. To fizyka. Podobne rozwiązania są w wysokich budynkach. Ciężar na górze z powodu bezwładności zmniejszy ruchy w pionie całej ramy. Pozdrawiam z Polski.

[@lucdevillele3532]

Hello, Thank you for your videos, I use currently an artillery Sidewinder X2, but I am thinking to get a faster one. I am not convince by the XZ format for high speed, a XY core looks like more technologically adapted for high speed. I am not surprised by the "quality" of your Eiffel tower we can't say it is a gamble to get so high print with this technology. Have you get a comparison with an XY core? Friendly Luc

[@heyitsjay22]

One thing I like about my old Ender 3 s1 pro is it is quiet. I wonder how loud this printer is. If it is run at a slower speed, is it quieter? Do the steppers micro step?

[@MakeWithTech]

The V3 is much louder than the S1 Pro when printing at high speeds.

[@dennysawyer3980]

Welcome back, Irv! I have an Ender-3 V3 and I absolutely love it. Creality has really stepped up their game with this series, and it's good to see them at least making an effort to abide by the open source licensing. Couple of notes - I mounted the spool holder on the top rail of my printer using the two threaded holes provided and it works great. I'll probably move the runout sensor eventually, but for now I added a PTFE tube to the bottom of the runout sensor to guide the filament away from the wiring harness. And your issues with the Eiffel Tower model are probably caused by a setting not being set - I had a similar issue and turning on "Detect Thin Walls" fixed it. (You'll have to use Classic slicing mode because Arachne ignores this setting.) Great video!

[@mamatuja]

I highly doubt 600 mm per second.😊😊😊

[@MakeWithTech]

Prints at 600mm/sec have a soft look but work well for prototypes. One of the past limitations of 3d printers was that you had to wait for longer than ideal to produce "rough" prototypes before producing final parts. This new generation of 3D printers allows you to print fast prototypes at .28 layer heights and 500-600 m/sec print speeds to test out concepts. When you are ready to produce a production part, you can reduce the speed to 200/300 m/sec, which is still faster than previous generation machines. All the sample prints in the video used the Creality Print defaults, which set the speed to 100 m/sec for the first layer and 300 m/sec for the upper layers. The print speed is reduced for the top layer, bridges, etc. As indicated, I used the Creality Print defaults and did not attempt to tune the prints.

[@mamatuja]

10 times faster? Calm down.😂😂😂

[@MakeWithTech]

If you start at 50 m/sec for the original Ender 3 and print with this machine at 500 m/sec the theoretical increase is 10x. In fact due to acceleration and jerk settings, and depending on the geometry of the part you are likely to see 3-5x faster production times.

[@medofernandez9328]

Great video. Where can I find the stl for the filament guide holder?

[@6rcracer6]

Thanks for a thorough review!

[@nigel5823]

that nozzle as come out for the k1 it a addon now

[@philnelson2364]

But what's the bed size???

[@whitewittock]

I'm waiting for a fast, not too expensive large multi filament printer. Why don't they make idexs any more

[@jksjrgfpsjgr]

creality announced a filament switcher that will also work with the 3v3 plus.

[@BlondieSL]

@@jksjrgfpsjgr Wait!! WHAT!??? Do you mean, something to add more than one color????????? Do you know what it's called and/or have a link to that? I'd LOVE to have an auto switch between 2 or more colors.

[@carbonfe]

Looks like a winner of a machine. I'm in the market for a new printer and this just might be the one I pick up. Excellent video Irv!

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks for the comment.

[@MisterkeTube]

The Ender 3 v3 Plus is a good printer, but unless you really need the size or you want to spend more time hand-holding your printer than just printing parts, get a Bambu. I like tinkering with my printers, but even then I have a P1S just because if I need a print, that thing just delivers without having to troubleshoot or tune or figure out settings. Creality still does not offer the quality Bambu does in that area, so if you just want to print and 256mm cubed is sufficient for you, Bambu is the way to go ...

[@MrTweetyhack]

this is an ad, not a review

[@BlondieSL]

Well thanks for this excellent review on this snazzy new printer! As it turns out, my local 3D printer store has them on sale for $100 off!!!! DANGGGGG! So I think I'll pick one up today. It's literally less that 1/3 the price that I almost was going to pay for a Max! I do have some questions for you, if you don't mind terribly. In no specific order.... - does the slicer that comes with it (I think that you said, Creality Print) have the "Fuzzy" option? With my printer, I started using fuzzy all the time, after some really nice test prints. I mostly make cases and such for my electronic gadgets, but that layers look just made them look so unprofessional. Now with fuzzy, they look amazing, very pro and the fuzzy thing actually hides the layer lines! So that's a must have! - That bracket that you made for the top, are you offering that to your fellow (subscribed) viewers? I can see putting that runout sensor on the top as being a good idea, especially if putting the filament up higher too. - As for moving that sensor, it was hard to see in the video, but is the wire that connects it to the base, long enough as it is? Or will you have to splice a longer wire (or just open it up and completely change the sire itself) ??? - When operating at high speed, let's say, 100 mmps to 200 mmps, does the unit shake a lot? The only place where I have room to put it, will be on top of an old sewing machine cabinet. LOL It's solid, but I still worry about the shaking. With my old machine, a nasty Wanhao, I can't print at very high speeds and I've had to lower acceleration and jerk to stop it from shaking like a wet dog running outside into cold winter air. LOL - As for networking... is it only wireless or does it have a network cable connection as well? I would not be comfortable printing over wireless, but did I understand you right that you can SEND the print job to the print and it stores it in its memory and then prints from that, no longer needing wireless? Except, perhaps, being able to monitor the print job, over the network, as it progresses? (without using the "cloud" option?). - Lastly, how noisy or quiet is this printer? With this Wanhao that I have, it's very noisy, especially since I had to add a tiny, but powerful mini "server fan". I did design it with a potentiometer to control the speed (this is for the tragic 'heat break" on these machines). So when I'm running a hot print, I have to up the speed of the fan to keep the heat break cool. Therefore, I have to close the door to the lab, otherwise, it would interfere with sleep. I hope to buy this today (I'm 90% sure that I will) and hopefully, you are ok with releasing the .stl of that top bracket. Thanks in advance and yes, LOVE YOUR CHANNEL! *EDITED HERE* Oops, sorry, I did forget something important to me. I see on the site that it says it can do TPU(95A). I believe that's a stiffer kind. The have many rolls of TPU, but they are not marked as either 90 or 95A. All I know is that they are VERY soft. Can this printer handle the softer TPU? If it would have difficulty with softer, would that be mostly due to having to "pull" it up so high? If so, then having the spool mounted on top as well as the runout filament on top, would that perhaps allow it to feed properly?? Again, thanks in advance.

[@BlondieSL]

Well, BOUGHT IT! Now to find some space for the old printer and put this one in the lab where I'll use it most. I'll first set it up and test Creality Slicer, but I'll also install Orca. I don't know if working with Klipper is a huge change from Marlin, but hopefully, I'll grasp and be able to understand things quickly. I do hope that Irv will do some more vids on this printer, perhaps walking through how to set up Orca for it and which camera that is and how to get it set up for time laps video. I also hope that the slicers can communicate with the printer directly.

[@thomaspc2]

Hi, Question, are you sure that's a 3S1 Pro and and not a regular 3S1? I did not see he light up top and the bed was not shinny.

[@billbyrd9845]

Did he mention bed size? I may have missed it.

[@MakeWithTech]

The Ender 3 V3 standard model is 220 x 220 x 250 mm. The Plus is 300*300*330mm.

[@ssbtd00m]

Ender website says 300x300mm.

[@jnssmnsn]

I quit watching when he said 5-600 mm/s WITH good quality.

[@whitewittock]

What do you mean, is that bad

[@jnssmnsn]

@@whitewittock Yeah, if he had any idea about 3d printing he wouldn't say that.

[@Cessna172G]

Sure, Prusa claim their printers have a max speed of 600mm/s

[@jnssmnsn]

@@Cessna172G They don't state speeds on any of their printers, EXCEPT for their new HT90, which is 10 000€ and delta based. Actually can print at that speed, unlike this bedslinger.

[@MakeWithTech]

I printed all the sample prints at 300m/second. The 3DBenchy on the USB card supplied by Creality prints at 500m/second.