Calibration Class - Raw live stream December 2022

Don't let people tell you that this is a simple topic. Take some time and learn about it for yourself here! The more you know the better!
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[@t.c.251]

Thank you so much for putting this video out there. This was exceptionally helpful!

[@HS-lv1hb]

Thanks for the great support for the community. Your guides, videos and calibration files have helped me to get to success quick and easy!

[@ericksonlawnsandgardens]

Best video I’ve seen so far. I just got my first printer yesterday and I’m feeling overwhelmed. I feel like I’m a step closer in understanding the process. So so very grateful you uploaded this. Absolute gold

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I hope you check out some of my other classes! Thanks for watching. I'm super glad this was helpful

[@chidoryinyourface4480]

Thank you so much for going step by step and go into every detail. I finally understood what Lift Distance, Retract Speed and so on is and what it does

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You're very welcome.

[@Kammmm]

This class is extremely informative and provides guidance in such an easy to understand way. Thank you for putting this together and for all the work you do in the 3D printing space.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

My pleasure. Thanks for the kind words.

[@Jackpetto]

this is so so so helpful! thank you for the information, i think everyone coming into this hobby should take the time to digest this video while printing and messing around with the calibration piece.

[@ianhotchin2936]

I'm brand new to 3D printing and have been listening to your videos. I'm a courier driver so listen to them as I'm driving around and think i've learnt a massive amount. Will watch them later when at home to be able to see the options etc but lots of great info and advice and a perfect length for people like me who can listen whilst driving. Many thanks. 🙂

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Ha! I am honored. Nobody really likes their own voice and I'm not exception. It's funny to think that someone is out there and that's the only part of my media that's being experience...and they aren't bleeding from the ears lol.

[@johngundlach1062]

You are amazing. spent the past 2 days printing exposure test and not getting the results I expected. took the time to watch this video rather than wasting resin and everything clicked. Please keep up the passing of knowledge. Its helping this hobby grow.

[@user-nk6ml9ny4m]

You guys have been lifesavers with these videos, Discord, tools, everything! I'm a jeweler and got put on the task of picking a printer and castable resin and then to figure out how to use it, coming from having absolutely no experience. That being said, I was struggling so badly until I found you guys and now i'm down to dialing in my resin for details that are indiscernible to the naked eye, but noticable under a microscope. THANK YOU!!!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You're very welcome!!! Im so glad to hear it.

[@joshuaabellanosa3157]

This video is extremely helpful, thank you very much!

[@leonedmonds9860]

Ty I like to support those designers who use your support business because you have taught me so much in the 3.5 months I have been resin printing. Thank you so much for your time and efforts for our community.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thanks so much Leon!

[@EletronManiacos]

Listened to this video while waiting for my 3D printer in the mail. This is amazing tks for The content

[@stevenagejunction4107]

Took me 3 days of testing and now I have a really good idea about the settings and now I'm printing out minis that look stunning. So I may be new to resin but with your videos I have learnt so so much I cant thank you enough and the cones have made me understand things a lot better, May have wasted 200ml resin but thats a tiny price to pay to now being well set up

[@TableFlipFoundry]

That makes me really happy to hear. The process is really worth taking time to learn and get right. If you were learning then the resin wasn't wasted.

[@mvm3897]

Fantastic and crazy informative. Thank you.

[@MIONIX]

Very helpful and I have switched over to J3D and the cones exclusively. I just bought my elegoo printer 6 months ago and sometimes I have so many struggles and just for an anecdotal account when I was learning I genuinely had no idea what dimensional accuracy was or how exposure affected the prints. Over time I've come to know it because I had so much trouble this winter but inside the elegoo book they send with the manual there is no explanation of exposure or calibration. Its my first and only printer but that is why I had no idea what it means. Of course its mentioned all the time but until a person really takes the time to dig into the topic its not really commonly understood information.

[@RenaudGaland21]

Just wanted to add some additional love to this channel, and say how lucky we are to have this kind of incredible info available for free. Your content and delivery are really top notch. I JUST started my journey and after going down the rabbit hole of trying to find that kind of info, this channel and your discord channel are hands down the best resources anybody could ever hope for (even if, like me, the goal isn't to necessarily print minis but bigger collectibles instead - fundamentals are called that for a reason :)). Thanks again. (Hoping to be able to become an active discord user asap to pay forward with some of that knowledge :))

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thank you so much for the kind feedback. I really needed it today :)

[@RenaudGaland21]

@@TableFlipFoundry you're more than welcome! Thank you for everything you do :) Definitely looking forward to that patreon of yours. I would pay top tier right away to have a chance to get some more personalized help with my 3D printing adventure.

[@blueckaym]

Btw dimensional accuracy (if calibrated properly of course) works well only on the XY plane! Meaning that if you want for example 2mm hole to be printed exactly 4mm you have to keep the hole with vertical axis - ie the dimension of the hole to be only in the XY-plane (well hole depth of course would be in Z axis and thus wouldn't be dimensionally accurate, which for drain holes that connect cavities/empty spaces doesn't matter at all). If your hole (it's the simplest example) is tilted or worse - it'll become a tiny bit smaller (ie the resin on the edges of the hole will receive a little bit more UV exposure and would expand a tiny bit more). And the nightmare for dimensional precision is ... supports! Imagine printing a puzzle piece vertical, so that it's outward knobs (aka key/outtie/male) would be extending out of the main tile footprint, and would need a bit of support. So you add the supports, print it and after removing the supports you find out that the side on which the supports were is a bit thicker and wouldn't fit precisely in the corresponding socket (aka hole/lock/innie/female) - the reason is that small amount of resin is trapped between the supports, or between the supports & the model wall, and while most of that resin would leak away when the build plate is lifted & lowered, some small part would actually be stuck there, and would receive a bit extra exposure while curing the support. The solutions are to either file it a bit after removing the supports (if the shape of your model & resin durability allow it), or to make such elements a little bit smaller (at least from the side of the supports). That 2nd solution however is in most cases very difficult or impossible to do in slicers! I was printing some puzzle pieces, and initially cut the knobs & holes in order to merge them later with the main rectangular piece, so (after a all male tiles print that I had to file for a long time) I realized what's going on and which sides get extra thick, and made those knobs a bit smaller to compensate (for example the knob printed on the top of the tile was nearly perfect as it has no supports). Another use-case would be if you try to make tiny holes for tiny magnets in your modular miniatures (usually wrists, arms & feet if you want to make it stand w/o a base /on ferromagnetic surface of course/). Since minis have various poses the orientation of such holes on the wrists & sometime feet can vary a lot, and thus you'll get different holes inaccuracies (feet are usually more precise if the figure is printed vertical as if standing on it feet, then the holes would be vertical too). I could fit 1.5mm magnets in 1.7+ mm holes (sometimes with extra filling with a very thin conical file), but fitting 1mm magnet in ~1.2mm hole in a ball-join of a hand(-holding-weapon) was extremely difficult, and filing it would often break the part. So dimensional precision is a nice thing, and in different use-cases can be very important, but it doesn't have universal solution. Calibration for D-precision is simply a good starting point, but diff. orientation & supports will most likely mess it up, and you'll need to consider the sides & places where these deformations would occur and compensate (if possible). Depending on your use-case D-precision could be completely ignored, as tiny inaccuracies wouldn't matter and won't be noticeable. P.S. btw I'm printing on 35microns which would match with the XY-resolution of the Mars 3, so I would get in theory a cube pixels of 35microns in all 3D.

[@EspatiallyGood]

Awesome video and thank you so much for uploading. This is so important for me just starting out. I guess it would be really handy if the pack you downloaded contained a calibration model which would ensure the supports will be strong enough for the model set? Maybe some sites do this. Also if they gave you a spec sheet telling you which resin was in mind for the model and what the exposure times and the printer... it might help remind people that their print quality may vary if these variables differ. I don't envy your job of creating supports... must be very tricky to find that "best range" middle ground.

[@brunomagalhaescad]

Amazing class my friend, thx!

[@kenlu94]

New to the hobby, and just started to print while listening to this class. Thanks man I've learn so much on the way and so many questions answered. Although I still fail print but its very close to success! trying to trouble shoot where went wrong. Would love to see more of your classes on these fundamental stuff, this video really helped! Thanks! Personal notes: 1:10:50 1:15:23

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thanks so much for the comment. I am working really hard on the launch of this new calibration system and then from there I will really focus on good, well made, edited and short form videos where I can go into more thought out planned info for you guys.

[@Fr3ak00]

very useful, i'm glad you decided to upload it to youtube. thanks a bunch

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You're quite welcome! Thanks for the message :) :)

[@virrcraft]

thank you for your classes! it's awesome! I'm just starting my SLA printing journey and with your help it seems like will be more easy to start :)

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Congratulations! Welcome to the community. If you ever have any questions please feel free to swing by our discord!

[@virrcraft]

@@TableFlipFoundry ​ already joined, but for now - just watching... because I decide to prepare myself (and printing space) before starting :) so my printer still in box... but I will ask some help for sure, when star my printing :) Thank you again! 1k peoples on the Discord looks a bit scaring, but I saw that guys really trying to help everyone (even newcomers) and it's really cool!

[@sooutofhere]

Thank you so much for these videos and the cones 🙂

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You're welcome! Glad to be helpful to you guys :)

[@Doctorpolkan]

Thanks. The most useful video for beginners that I've seen. Lots to take in. Helped me a lot. Knowledge is power!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I'm a bit long winded. But I really think it's worth the time to put the puzzle pieces together. Thanks for watching.

[@Doctorpolkan]

@TableFlipFoundry It has helped me understand the difference in results between flat exposure test and cones. I think my resin is too brittle for minatures. Still more work to do on this Creality water washable resin, but now I'm sure it isn't my printer that is at fault. Will try a different resin next time!

[@aymericrichard6931]

great info, I learned a lot and it answered many questions about printer/resin setup, now time to test thank you

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You're very welcome. Glad to be of service.

[@jeffroth42]

Thanks for this. Someone suggested it today. Already finding the Discord really helpful.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Welcome to the family! Glad to be helpful!

[@greggbowers1947]

I needed to find this video a year ago, but glad to have it now!!!!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

A year ago there wasn't much like this available. It took me designing the cones and troubleshooting this last year to really dial it all in

[@geradodiaz9041]

Great teaching, I really appreciated it!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thanks for watching!

[@zekehowell1797]

I just got my first resin printer. Thank you for the wealth of knowledge in this video.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

My pleasure, I hope this helps you get things up and running easily.

[@darthhall6187]

Thanks for this video. I won't say I understood everything you said, but it has given me a good reference for what I need to focus on to improve my 3D prints. 99% of my prints were successful. But there was a lot of detail lost, with some muddy, and shiny patches on the minis. Then suddenly I started to get a lot of fails after switching to a different resin. This advice will help me start from scratch, and build up a more successful method for printing. Cheers.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Im glad you're finding it helpful! If you ever have questions feel free to hop on discord and shoot me a message anytime :)

[@Humphreysfox]

fabulous video!

[@chrissobak4702]

@tableflipfoundry I just wanted to say thank you so much for putting this class together. I know I am a little late to finding out about this video class. I learned quite a bit and I have been resin printing since Nov 2019 and I am always looking to learn and understand the why's and how's in order to achieve better prints. I started out with an Epax X1-DJ, then got an Epax X1-4k, then just the past couple of months I purchased a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K because of the pixels sizes being 22 microns compared to my Epax X1-4k pixels being 31.5 microns. Then I had also purchased a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8KS after realizing that the Mini 8K was having Anti-Aliasing issues. I actually build plastic Scale Model cars. I enjoy building 1/16 scale drag cars and I also build 1/25th scale cars as well. I do design a lot of my own parts in my CAD system that I have. So I have been trying to achieve the best possible quality and accuracy of prints as possible for my builds. I have also bought some files for mini's and figures to understand more about 3D printing. Again I wanted to say how amazing this video was and to thank you and the rest of your crew for putting this video together. I am in the process of trying to dial in my Settings for my sonic mini 8KS since I have been struggling with some issues which lead me to your video. I have learned a lot from trial and error but watching the video has given me an even better understanding on how to approach things. So Thank you again. Just want you to know your hard work is much appreciated.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thank you so much for the comment. I'm so happy to know that I can be of help to you :)

[@arjenheyman]

What a great tutorial this is!

[@en4cer]

I'm new to this and feel like I understand so much more after watching this

[@TableFlipFoundry]

That makes me really happy to hear :)

[@geode8556]

Thank you! You are so right! 3d printing is a 3 dimentional+ issue.

[@snappified1622]

Thank you so much for this video

[@TableFlipFoundry]

My pleasure.

[@timberg5298]

I’m new to 3d printing and haven’t even gotten to the calibration test yet I’m quite overwhelmed by all this ,that being said I stumbled upon your videos and I think you give the best info . I feel like other outlets info is not so good . I mean I know people are trying to be helpful but you can never tell what is real or not .

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I do my best to provide the logic and reasoning with the info so that you can understand it fully. I'm so glad this was helpful for you

[@PainJoyPeace]

Thank you sir

[@IanSizzler]

Thanks for your video. I learned a lot.

[@MarceloBerruti]

you just won a follower!!! awesome job

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Wooo! Winnnneeeeer!

[@komakon]

Ty for these classes, I'm really struggling to get useable good prints :(

[@axlns81]

Its my 2nd day in the hobby and I just watched this video and found it extremely useful. I'm waiting for resin to be delivered and looking forward to start calibrating (my Saturn 2 was delivered this morning). joined your Discord, subscribed to your channel. thanks for all your content . I have one question about this abnormal prints you showed - when this happens what you would do? you just repeat calibration or further increase exposure, even though most thin cone printed successfully? thanks again!

[@richfpv472]

I definitely found this video very helpful,

[@genemaster74]

G'day m8.....this 2hrs was some intence info ol boy🤯, just last night as my pre made Brand mascot was going, i was counting approx the burn in layers time and approx layer times. just to get an idea of the manufactures settings🤔 all in all to get some base settings to start with on my calibration journey. Currently i can buy eSUN range of resins locally, ive been useing their filament range since i got my FDM, so why not their resin. Cheers for given this ol bloke another heart attack☠....like after ya beginners guide...Dam an Bugger me😱. but appreaciate the hard work and the grind, your skool of hard knocks series on resin is all saved as i find them, im not a gamer just a crawling nut but still subbed your channel for educational aspect. From Sunny downunder🙃

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Ha. Well I appreciate you taking the time to watch such long videos. I really hope they are helping. Esun is a good brand from my experience. I've used some of their resin and for a long time I was only using esun filament for my printer because it was refillable. I hope your time spent on my classes is time saved in frustration later.

[@EMTBAFV]

Great video and I'm fairly new just a few months in but learn something new everyday! One thing though I went and bought the saturn 2 last week I have the mono 4k and new mono 2 were starters but to small really but these settings are really the default in lychee that do not work for this new elegoo Like ABS 2.0 resin! The exposure time is crazy high for it! It says 3 to 3.5 on the site but seen 1 other vodeo only testing this resin and he os up to 5 whole seconds! I'm currently on 3.8 amd having successfully ISH prints now! So just tweaking now around here likes of that 180mm setting is 120mm for this but away to keep testing! I'll try the cones next after the matrix I just want to make complete sure the exposure needs to be this high I mean it seems alot from what the anycubic printers run at with ABS and UV Tough some of the best I've tested for strength up to now the UV Tough! It beats all these ABS resins in break testing!

[@JerryBWagoner]

I'm 10 days into this world using a low-end Photon mono 4k, and find myself falling headfirst down the rabbit hole. This video was amazing and I'll be looking for your community.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Im so glad you found it useful!! Https://discord.gg/tableflipfoundry

[@jec5476]

As someone who used PTFE lube on my FEP, I'm curious how this was debunked. I didn't find it helped noticeably, but figured that the effect was minor. Anyway, thank you for doing these talks and I definitely learned a thing or two!

[@av2245]

Nice video. I come from an FDM background and use the same basic box method I use for FDM to dial in the SLA printer with a pair of calipers. I have been wondering why the SLA calibration prints were so complex. FDM is a bit more difficult with calipers because there are so many print settings and you have to deal with multiple axis, but SLA is much simpler to dial in with calipers.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Right? There is a log of genius in that part. I want to make sure the community as a whole gets to use it.

[@virrcraft]

same here :) just jumping from FDM to SLA printing (not saying good buy to FDM hehe)!

[@alexeipopov9]

I am new to resin 3D printing, and to 3D printing in general, just had slightly more experience with FDM. In my opinion, the information presented was useful, and it was great to hear your take on available curing settings, their meaning and importance. Development of sharing of the calibration models is fantastic, thank you very much for that. I haven't tried using them, but I can easily see the value! However this being named as a calibration class (in case you would like to do something similar in the future), personally I would have appreciated if you could share some calibration workflow. For example, something like (I am not providing real advice, just a direction of what I would probably appreciated to hear): step 0 - control the environment, do your best at resting mixing, and ensure that the temperature of the resin is within the range suggested by the manufacturer, step 1, make resin stick to build plate - start with manufacturer suggested settings for your resin, and print first 10 layers of the calibration model of choice. If it sticks, decrease the burn-in layr exposure time by 5 seconds, print again and do this until you get a failed print, then use the last successful exposure time; step 2 - transition layers, not much to talk about just set it to 15-20 layers, it will be printing most likely bottoms of supports anyway; step 3 - normal layers - print the calibration cubes with manufacturer/community suggested profile, if it is not dimensionally accurate, change the exposure time by 0.5 seconds. If it still no good in the same direction, change by another .5 seconds, if dimensional accuracy changed direction, change the exposure time by 0.25 seconds back. Then print the calibration cones and do finer adjustments. So this kind of precise information on how to approach the calibration routine for every new resin/printer/layer height combination that you get. Tuning lift distance seems to be straightforward, but speeds - not really. Should we just follow the manufacturer suggested values? Or what should is the approach to their value adjustments? What should be the increments/decrements? Do you suggest increasing/decreasing values by some fixed delta? Or to increase/decrease big and then adjust going half way back until you find a good working value? Resin prints take a lot of time for preparation and cleanup, so in my opinion it is important to do your best to get the best print possible. One last question - what do you do if you can't find the resin manufacturer or even community suggested settings for your printer? How do you choose what other printer to take settings from for the initial print attempt?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Every resin printer has different variables that change the needed adjustments. Every resin type has variables that change the needed adjustments also. It is impossible for us to give you exact adjustment metrics because every combination requires different times of adjustment. An RGB screen requires full seconds of adjustment. A mono screen may only require .1 up to ..3 or 4. Depending on the led array and resin.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

As far as finding your initial settings, you will always be able to find initial settings from both the printer manufacturer and the resin manufacturer

[@alexeipopov9]

@@TableFlipFoundry Thank you for the answer. I surely understand that you can’t provide adjustment numbers for different printers and resins, so I was looking more for guidelines on how to approach it. So if settings for exact printer are not available, then I can look at the settings for the printer with the most similar specs and the same uv light delivery/blocking technology. I got Anycubic Photon Ultra, which is DLP, and except for Anycubic resins, I don’t see settings for it often. And for some resins it takes moe attempts to get fully successful print.

[@dantetemp]

when the v2 of the cones will be available? thanks for such a detailed and profound knowledge!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

We actually have v3 available for texting on our discord right now :)

[@Old_Wizard_Minis]

Thanks for all the great info, super helpful. If I may ask what mic are you using?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

This one is the Rode Procaster

[@JerryBWagoner]

Thanks!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Oh my gosh!!!!! Thank you so much. You're the first ever to give a super thanx on youtube!!!!

[@MrMarbolous]

Thank you so much for your content! I took a break from 3D printing for a while because of personal reasons and my last level of knowledge were the cones V1 and I already loved them and learned a lot back then from you but this is a serious upgrade 👍 If you do any editing I hope that you won't cut back the info in order to make it more entertaining or anything. I love all the classes because they are so amazingly educational 🙂 What I really would love were chapter marks. Especially on those longer videos.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I want to make sure to hit all the point without getting distracted or repeating myself or anything like that.

[@andaug]

Great Explanations. 👌

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thanks so much! Glad you like it.

[@andaug]

@@TableFlipFoundry i really like your videos. I have long time fdm background and start with resin, now. It really helps a lot. I like, that you motivate people to think. 👌

[@MiniatureMonthly]

Thank you so much for these videos...such good information. Keep up the great work and if you need help with your Patreon, I have been running a very successful one for 6 years now. So if you have any questions, I'd be happy to pay back info for all the great info that you have given to me with this channel. Good luck and keep rocking! ~ Aaron

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Thanks so much. I'll definitely have to take you up on that. I have a couple of projects consuming my time right now but as soon as I'm finished I'll start looking into Patreon possibilities

[@GregAtlas]

Wait after lift has a purpose to those of us that have a camera with a resinlapse cable set on a timer. Especially in low light environments where the camera's exposure time may need increased and would turn out blurry if the build plate was in motion.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I'm not sure that chitu systems included that specific setting just for the couple of people who may be using the resinlapse in just that way. Though it does seem handy that it exists for you to use for that purpose!

[@GregAtlas]

@@TableFlipFoundry Never said it was just for that purpose, but it does work for it as long as the camera has a good enough timer. Kind of frustrating that my old Canon SX50HS has a better custom timer than my Canon R6 that I just got that can only do 2 and 10 second delays with no custom option.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

@@GregAtlas isn't that weird? That you have two hard locked timer settings. My Sony E6600 does the same thing

[@GregAtlas]

@@TableFlipFoundry It's frustrating. It's a great camera that I paid $3k for just the body, but it doesn't have a custom timer like their 10 year old mid-grade camera. I plan on setting up an arduino with a resinlapse to do a custom timer with it since the firmware will likely never get the extra time settings. I think I have a Sony E6400 if I remember right, but haven't checked its timer settings. If you're saying yours doesn't have it then I'm guessing mine doesn't either.

[@orangedragon4713]

With the DLP printers basically being a different beasts. Really hope to see some videos of you doing some setting breakdowns and testing with those printers.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are for sure but the cost is prohibitive for me and I dont make any money on youtube (yet) so its going to be a little bit before I get a chance to get hands on with one.

[@orangedragon4713]

@@TableFlipFoundry Reach out to them! You do amazing work, I am sure they would help you out. And the prices have come down fairly well and are comparable with others on the market. Even going on sale too (Photon Ultra currently 52% off for valentines day).

[@tanoAE86]

23:15 missed opportunity to say "I'm not dragging their name through 'z mud' right now"

[@frugal10191]

Is there any kind of database of the tensile strength of the various resins available? Looking at the manufacturer information it seems very random what kind of technical information is provided.

[@tomking8624]

I am new to resin printing and I want to get this right, so I have been watching every tutorial I can find. this was by far the most consise explanation on calibration yet. I have found the updated version of the cubes of calibration but I am having a hard time finding the cones v2. Is there a link?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Its pinned on our discord server until official release. Swing by and say hi! Check for the Cones of Calibration channel and you can download it there!

[@briansmith1098]

Great video, THANKS! When will be avaleble the cones of calibration 2.0?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are currently available on our discord. Just join and type !cones2 I am working on V3 officially which will get its own video and spot on our website :D

[@briansmith1098]

Ill join then. Thanks again@@TableFlipFoundry

[@robinonrust8756]

Thanks for this very intuitive in-depth explanation how resin printing works and how you can get the most out of it. I'm a newbee but have done a lot of research before I bought my first beginner Anycubic mono 2. Vogman gave me allready a lot of usefull information, but this in-depth education will gives me the succes I was searching for how thing are working and how I can improve it. Using for Exposure time settings the R_E_R_F function where you can print 8 test object with divergent exposer times. Have made 2 scenes in Lychee slicer that gives me a good startpoint with 2 test object (added numbers to the 3D objects). Just editing the name before printing to R_E_R_F.pm3n. Using the following test object at the moment in following order: - 3DRS_ChipTest_V1.2 (will change this in the J3D's Boxes of Calibration) - The Cones of Calibration v1 Where can I find v2 of the cones of calibration that your have shown in the video?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are currently on our discord server pinned to the cones channel. I'm working on V3 which will be a fully public release in a couple months

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Also, thanks so much for the kind words. I'm really glad you found this helpful!!!!

[@robinonrust8756]

@@TableFlipFoundry Your welcome, it's one of the longest I have seen here haha, but was with usefull information!

[@robinonrust8756]

@@TableFlipFoundry found it thanks!

[@squadof5]

Link to www.youtube.com/@OnceinaSixSide/ mentioned by Ty @ 8:25

[@user-ps5hy1wi2k]

great video and explanation. Would you say the settings you mentioned are equally applicable for larger or smaller build plates? I am refering to the speeds and distances. I would assume the smaller build plates have a FEP that would let go the layer quicker than a bigger build plate due to the area and how much the FEP can go before releasing. But you are the expert. And about your cones of calibration, is V2 better than the one available on your website?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You nailed it. The smaller the fep sheet the less stretch is needed for release. So lower lift height. And yes V2 has multiple improvents and prints 35% faster.

[@davidc3150]

​@TableFlip Foundry thank you very much for the quick reply. Your video is truly informative and best of all based on facts and logical analysis. You give very good reasons to why each setting matters on the slicer and I assumed those are suggested values by you, COULD YOU CONFIRM THAT PLEASE? (are the general numbers on the slicer at the second part of the video your average suggestions?). Of course the exposure times will vary depending on the resins and some other factors might be needed to compensate as well. Thank you for such an in depth video. Hopefully you will make more videos about all the subjects that matter like hollowing pieces. Correct support processes and best practices to reduce the strain on the printers and optimize the component life span. I realize the wait time after retraction tackles a lot of good benefits like letting the particles in the resin set still, allowing the print area to cool off (I have read that constant and higher peaks of heat also degrade the screen faster), etc..

[@rolandkeller1995]

Is there a peel Speed terster somewehre? I calibrate Fpa Saturn 2 always to the same 300Hz Sound Pension, but still get some peel fails with accurate cones...

[@josephtannenbaum8696]

This was good. Where is the quiz? I would like to know how I'm coming along.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

This was live a while back the quiz is gone now unfortunately.

[@petestone1011]

❤

[@losylvestre1509]

I wanna know , if I use the same resin , but in a different color , (example clear to grey ) , is the difference worth recalibrating and re-running test prints . Tks

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Yes you will want to recalibrate even for a different color. Pigments accept uv light differently.

[@blueckaym]

Where we can find the cubes & cones of calibration v2?

[@jeffreysutton1133]

Question: I see how amazing both tools are. I have an earlier version of the cones from Thingiverse. How can i get the T3D-Tech's B.O.C. V1.4 Blocks of calibration tool? Or what is the discord group name I can join that was mentioned in this video.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

The link to the discord is in the description. J3Ds cubes are no longer supported by TableFlip Foundry but V2 of the cones are still in the server. V3 coming soon.

[@patrickobrien4266]

How can I get the cones of calibration v2 ? I'm on discord but says I can't have access to the v2 ? Any help is appreciated Thanks , and always find your videos of value

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are pinned to our cones channel in the discord as a community beta until I launch them officially.

[@TK7837]

This would be great if the slicer knows what type of resin your using with auto support 🤔

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Even if it did, it wouldnt account for many other factors.

[@tackletestdummy9096]

What about the influence leveling plays on z height? Adding more sheets when leveling increases my z height on a 10mm cube. I use tolerance compensation on chitubox currently to make up for my small cubes. Maybe I just need more exposure or a combination of the two. Have you play with any compensations in combination to exposure time? I have Saturn 8k printers and when leveling with two sheets my z heigh is around 9.05-9.4mm where my x and y are 9.7-9.9 with 2.5s exposure time with standard resin

[@TableFlipFoundry]

This applies only when printing directly on the build plate. Unfortunately I dont have the answer for this question as this isn't something I ever do. Exposure time will not effect z height though. This can only be solved via leveling I would wager.

[@tackletestdummy9096]

@@TableFlipFoundry I’m battling this issue as I need to print dimensionally accurate parts flat to the build plate. I use a cube to calibrate

[@calif94577]

Where do you get the v2 of the cones? Website only has v1

[@MrPierBacco]

White snow 😂

[@KrippledKracka]

Was the "product" you were developing ever released?

[@aunderiskerensky2304]

working on calibrating with cones v1 right now, is v2 available yet? i have been unable to track it down and all i have seen is soon™. i'm semi enjoying and semi hating this process, but its intriguing. you're technical information so far has been getting me closer so i'm going to keep leeching knowledge here in the corner don't mind me.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

It's available pinned to the cones channel on our discord server until official release. Come grab it!

[@aunderiskerensky2304]

@@TableFlipFoundry done and done. did the tesseract and got the small box in the middle box in the big box and they are SNUUUUG

[@arjenheyman]

@@TableFlipFoundry is this file public or behind the server subscription?

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

Would you say these tests are worthwhile for someone not using presupported files? The cubes sounds great, but the cones seem a bit pointless if I’m doing my own supports.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Depends on good your support work is. But if you're doing your own supports and you have a solid grasp on support theory. Stick with the cubes only.

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

@@TableFlipFoundry Thank you. I’m doing my own supports these days and still trying different techniques to reduce surface distortion. I’m still watching this video and you’re verifying a lot of my conclusions. It’s great to see a very critical thinker making these kinds of videos. Thanks again.

[@Hateweek1984]

Are those "new cones"

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are. This is V2 of the cones. And actually v3 is being designed right now!

[@TheGoatPC]

So, I run Cubes and I can get the cubes to fit with a exposure if 1.8S on Anycubic Mono X6 with UV set to 50%, But only a few of the pillars will be complete. And they are not straight, the look bent. I run cones and none of the pillars succeed. If I bump up the exposure, then if I run the cubes they will no longer fit. Not sure what else I can do.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I outlined what these results mean in the video.

[@charlieeverhart6646]

So PTFE lube doesn't do anything? Funny I used it every time I changed my resin on my mono x 6k, and I rarely ever had any failed prints. I stopped using it when I bought the M5s and the M5s pro and now I have much much more failed prints. Meanwhile the Mono x 6k still prints perfectly and I still use the lube on it. Guess Ill stop using it on the 6k and see how the prints come out.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

@charlieeverhart6646 the weird thing, I've never used it once, printed what I'd estimate to be, what must he dozens of thousands of hours now across all my printers. So, if you find that you're needing it, you're possibly placing a bandaid on a problem you not solving. This is the best logic I can offer here. That said, I'm also a big advocate for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If ptfe lube is working for you. Keep using it. This isn't a contest for who's right, it's all about making prints and having fun and that's all I want for ya. So keep doin it if it's workin.

[@Martin.W.F]

Where can I find the V2 of the cones ?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are pinned to the cones channel on the discord server. They are a sort of "community beta" at the moment.

[@juz4kix]

Looking for the quiz.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

The quiz was just for the love class.

[@Hateweek1984]

where can we get the box in a box exposure test?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They can still be downloaded via J3D Techs guide here. docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#

[@Hateweek1984]

@@TableFlipFoundry thank you sir!!

[@cuzzman01]

Where do we find the cubes of calibration?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

They are no longer supported by TableFlip Foundry. A quick google search should fix you right up. V3 of the cones doesnt require the cubes, coming this month.

[@madnessfire9081]

@@TableFlipFoundry where to find the v3?

[@vireshnatha850]

Is this file still variable for download as I can’t seem to find it on the discord

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Yes it's pinned to the cones of calibration channel.

[@vireshnatha850]

@@TableFlipFoundry thanks for the feedback. sorry, I still can’t find it as I’m not familiar on how to use discord channels

[@0x777]

Tried to join the discord server, somehow I couldn't... Am I sitting on the wrong continent?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

There should be no restrictions. We have people from all over the world in the server.

[@0x777]

@@TableFlipFoundry Ah, it was the browser, for some reason it worked in Firefox but not in Chrome. Weird...

[@cattaraugustonawanda4426]

Interesting information but needs to be better organized and more to the point.

[@CaptainBipto]

Where can you download the calibration files?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You can join our discord server to get the beta files.

[@CaptainBipto]

@@TableFlipFoundry I have joined the discord server and found the Cones calibration stl. Is the cube calibration stl available? If it is where do I find it to download. Thanks.

[@squadof5]

@@CaptainBipto Link in the guide pinned in the discord channel.

[@chrisc9213]

@@squadof5 I am in the discord and cannot find where the files are pinned....what am I missing

[@squadof5]

@@chrisc9213 They're pinned in the Cones of Calibration channel.

[@littlekulamonster77]

What happened and where is the V2 file?

[@TableFlipFoundry]

V2 was in community beta. We actually moved onto v3 without a public release of v2. I was able to eliminate the need for the cubes entirely with v3. We are currently in testing but if you want to participate we have them on the discord for you to try out. Https://discord.gg/tableflipfoundry

[@Sternenkind123]

Gibts das auch auf deutsch 🤔

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I'm sorry I don't understand.

[@AbstractObserver]

1:31:17 - It did make to youtube

[@calif94577]

“This is definitely not making it to KZbin” - watching this on KZbin… 😂

[@TableFlipFoundry]

hahah. It turned out to be a good class lol

[@calif94577]

@@TableFlipFoundry you replied before I even finished the video 😂 talk about fast!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

@@calif94577 Im At my desk and I get notifications on my phone :) I do my best to reply to everyone if I can :)

[@calif94577]

@@TableFlipFoundry gotcha. Not sure if my other comment got lost in the shuffle. How do I find the v2 of the cones of calibration. Your website has v1 it seems. Also looking for the calibration tools you teased on this video about.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

@@calif94577 it's pinned to the cones channel on our discord

[@G36934]

you talk to much because you explain what too much means in 3 or 5 ways and half of what you say is explaining what your about to explain. holy crap!!!!!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I think this is a very accurate explanation for the way I teach yep! Hahshs

[@Jose-pm3mn]

🤣 Promo_SM