Is Resin Detergent Better for Cleaning 3D Prints?

Lets test out Resin 3D Detergent for Cleaning your 3D Prints and see if it's any better than cleaning with IPA
Resin Detergent
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#3DPrinting #Resin #cleaning

[@corksauve4949]

My question would be, does it last longer before it needs to be changed out than IPA? How easy will it be able to be reconstituted (reused)?

[@JustinHudechek]

This is my question to

[@scottyboy6269]

I use methyl hydrate, my 1st stage last so so so long doesnt matter if its dirty it still takes stuff off. Then let it drip dry for several minutes and then in to second cleaner methyl hydrate. Total cost is about $32 cad for 8L and I use about 20-40L of resin a month

[@advanced6381]

​@scottyboy6269 yea but that's also wayy more dangerous to work with and you need to be insanely careful when using that. Which a lot of people aren't

[@Digit0wL]

@@advanced6381 careful how? I use methyl Hydrate on my cars to remove the gunks from tree sap that stains yellow and is super sticky. Have to be quick and rinse it as soon as the gunk goes away but works very well. Im guessing it is pretty toxic indoor?

[@sprocket5526]

You ought to read the safety briefs on those products. When ever a manufacturer adds "lemony scents" to hide what ever chemicals in the product, my alarm bells goes off with 120dB

[@Nidkidful]

I've been using simple green at full concentration and 40C temps in an ultrasonic cleaner. The resin sediments out and can be filtered out over time, so we've gone through a ton of resin in the same bath. Then a final wash with IPA, and interestingly, after the simple green wash, the resin rinsed off in the IPA also sediments out, leaving the post rinse bath clear, and it ends up that it only needs evaporation replaced. It works well, and the heated bath really helps de-support parts.

[@trinibears]

Same!

[@krib1887]

How do you filter your simple green ?

[@Nidkidful]

@@krib1887 Progressively finer mesh spindown filters, and letting it sediment out in a bottle. Occasionally we'll crash the solution in a pan with a UV spotlight.

[@Dark0Storm]

I guess the biggest question, especially given the cost, is how long it will keep cleaning that well for, and how many times can you filter and re-use it? Some people swear methylated spirits will keep cleaning for longer than IPA (which I did find too, but I couldn't get the methylated spirits to settle out properly for reuse even once). If it outlasts IPA that at least goes some way to compensating for the cost difference.

[@cjameshuff]

There is also the question of how you dispose of it afterward. It won't evaporate leaving the resins as a solid residue like alcohol.

[@TheSmuey]

@@cjameshuff My city has a facility I can bring a lot of types of garbage to, at no additional cost. They also have a station for chemical waste and that's perfect for empty resin bottles and spent alcohol. Maybe your city has a similar option?

[@802Garage]

I'd be interested to see the ingredients or MSDS to know if it's just a degreaser or some soap marked up like crazy.

[@mypipeaccount6575]

I looked all over both of the Sailsea and Sunlu and didn't find the MSDS for either. I also suspect that it turns out to be pinesol or something.

[@trollpaintingminis4496]

Sunlus smells like an oven degreaser

[@secondsonofswan9083]

What's disposal look like. Because right now that would be a huge selling factor. And more so how cleanable/recyclable is it compared to ipa. Because if I can just keep reusing thing for 10x the time the price is worth it. Also if I don't have to wait for evaporation or paying to dispose would be wonderful

[@dragularum]

I use ResinAway, which is an Aussie made product by Monocure, and I get the same kind of results as the detergent you have used, and whilst it doesnt have the citrus smell, its quite neutral, and definitely not like IPA smell, its super easy to work with. I've also found that while its a lot more expensive, it lasts significantly longer in use than IPA does, you can keep using it over and over and it keeps cleaning. Seems to work out on an equal cost basis against IPA for me given the re-usability.

[@HuntingHeresy]

Is the recycling process the same as IPA? Cure in the sun and dispose of the gelatinous mess?

[@dragularum]

@@HuntingHeresy I've not yet gotten to the point where it is no longer effective at cleaning, you just keep using it over and over (a bit like Evaporust, you just use it until it doesn't work anymore). I will probably try straining it through fine filters once it gets to that point and see what kind of sludge comes out and whether it can then be used further. Still a bit of a work in progress in that regard, but its been a couple of months of light to average use and still no degradation in cleaning ability so far! Elegoo wash station, roughly 7L of resinaway in the container so I can dunk the whole build plate of my Saturn 2 in and set it going, as it cleans the build plate nicely too.

[@Bonedraco1027]

i was looking at this stuff the other day. Thanks for the review

[@talontoth4402]

Love the direct volume comparison at the start.

[@goforitpainting]

Cool as always 👍

[@GeekDetour]

Hum, expensive... But looks cool! Thanks for testing it Uncle Jessy. By the way, do you let the alcohol rest and transfer the upper / cleaner part of it to a different container to make the alcohol last longer?

[@antongunther3977]

Main problem with any cleaning solution (especially those that require water) is that you now have a hazardous chemical you need to dispose of. In some areas you can just drop it off at a government waste disposal place, but most places here in the US you need to pay to do so. I have the same problem with water washable. Whereas with IPA I just evaporate it over the course of a day and cure the gross sludge that remains. If your main concern is fumes, just get a 3m mask with a filter rated for organic vapors and a window fan to ventilate the room after you are done washing your prints.

[@krib1887]

How do you evaporate your ipa?

[@antongunther3977]

@@krib1887 two schools of though that vary based on local laws. 1. Some people just take an old glass pickle jar and dump the waste ipa and leave it out in the sun. This does release some nasy smells and chemicals into the air and might disturb your neighbors. I personally dont like this. 2. The way I do it is I just take an old glass pickle jar and fill it with my waste IPA. I leave the jar open in my grow tent with my inline fan running exhaust to the outside. The fan has a carbon filter on it to reduce the smell/chemicals I release. I've noticed the filter removes 95%+ of the smell and based on the limited air quality testing I've done personally it doesn't seem to impact long term air quality. (but keep in mind I evaporate only 500 to 1000 ml at a time). With both methods you can just cure the gunk left after the IPA is evaporated as you would any other washed resin (I just cure it for an extra 10 mins to be on the safe side)

[@krib1887]

@@antongunther3977 Wow alright thanks!

[@PrintandPlay]

Hey Jessy! - could you please look into producing a video orientated on resin safety ( specifically about the need for proper ventilation and vapor emissions from the resins and ipa )? Safety has been overlooked by most and I believe is a major concern that needs to be addressed more in this community. Hoping you/others in your position could tackle some topics related to safety when resin printing. For example - proper vapor extraction, disposal of ipa/cleaning agents, exposure from large amounts of formaldehyde and other volatile compounds released from ipa and resins, vapor emission from resins and ipa/other solvents, etc...

[@Benjamins_RC_Channel]

I 1000% agree with this. I bought my 3-D printer almost a year ago, but let it sit in the box until I set up a proper workstation. I use a cannabis grow tent that sucks the air straight out of the house. It works great! Am even able to use a small Wi-Fi connected desktop heater to regulate the temperature.

[@PrintandPlay]

@@Benjamins_RC_Channel that’s what I did too. I have 11 printers going in a big grow tent with a powerful 6” inline duct fan piped to the outside and there is another duct fan that pulls air out of the room to the outside as well. Air quality monitor has been stationed inside and outside of the tent to monitor volatiles - the amount of formaldehyde and other volatiles that come off as a result of having the ipa wash bucket open to the air would be enough to make everyone rethink using large quantities of ipa to wash parts - literally makes the machine go off the charts. I switched to completely using water washable resin a couple of weeks ago and am so much happier with it - and if you take a look at the rough math for the amount of ipa you use/length of time it lasts vs the cost increase of the water washable compared to standard resins it’s essentially a wash - pun intended lol ( with the added benefit of not having the exposure and a 2-3 gallon of flaming death sitting around ).

[@mml3140]

@@PrintandPlay I purchase an AQ monitor but need to learn how to use it lol. Excluding the IPA/wash portions. Has the grow tent been sufficient in keeping out dangerous particals and VOCs ? How does your AQ Monitor react to the act opening of the tent and removing the print ?

[@samsinger5135]

the detergent sounds like a super new and great idea... further testing will need to be done but this sounds like this would be very safe to use in say a ultra sonic cleaner for small minis getting every nook and cranny. this maybe worth the investment if the detergant can hold up much longer then IPA

[@Guardian_Arias]

The product has been taken down from Amazon furthermore I couldn't find any Safety data Sheets for the product. Individuals and especially content creators in resin 3D printers must start pushing for transparency and reprimand brands that dont provide transparent SDS.

[@PrintandPlay]

Safe and proper setups/health impacts are such important and unfortunately neglected issues in the 3d printing community and it needs to change. Msds sheets are great for those who are educated enough to look for them - but what about everyone else? Imo - maybe one of these KZbin channels needs to collaborate with a chemical company ( like BASF here in the USA/Germany ) or a university Chem department to hold a series of videos that can help teach the public how to mitigate safety concerns.

[@Guardian_Arias]

@@PrintandPlay You are right about SDS being more useful to does already educated enough and less so to others but it's still something. Plus, if the content creators start to talk more about what's in the compounds they are shilling at least a little bit more awareness can be had. It definitely doesn't help when they can't even pronounce denatured alcohol for the entire video and its very probable that they were simply reading from a teleprompter and probably do zero printing for themselves.

[@korbyynbear5592]

I think someone (named Uncle Jessy) turned me on to Simple Green as a cleaner during the couf, never had a problem since. Smells fine, non flammable, non toxic.

[@makers_lab]

True, however in another video he tested various other agents (meths, IPA et .), and conceded that he wished he had been using something different than SG long ago.

[@ozcanison]

I'm just impressed you finally got "de-natured" alcohol pronounced correctly at last! :D

[@RoseKindred]

I may have to give this a try. I am happy with my system, dirty IPA dunk/swirl > Simple Green wash > Water wash. But always looking for new ways.

[@mr_fuji_mintsmr_fuji_mints9873]

Simple green for real?? Just curious

[@Grave79]

I tried the Sunlu detergent on super sale when it first launched and it cleans A LOT better than IPA. But I hate disposing of resin water so I rinse with IPA instead. Currently using Sunlu detergent as first wash and IPA second wash. Really great combo for hollowed prints. No idea how long it cleans for though and I don't think I'd buy it at full price. Someone said you can do a 50/50 mix with water and it works just as well so I guess there's that.

[@GeekDetour]

I do the same: after washing, I spray completely clean alcohol for that last "extra step" to make it really mat and not tacky at all.

[@grazingshot]

My question would be how long it lasts before needing to be replaced. It's almost 4 times more expensive then the ipa you compared it to. If it lasts several times longer before needing to be swapped it may be worth it. I use Methyl Hydrate to clean my prints, it's $13 CDN from my local hardware store for 4L. It is more poisonous then IPA, but with our usual handling it's not a problem.

[@chaselewis4108]

I feel like it would get just as dirty, if not dirtier in the same amount of uses, as you are using it to take away excess resin. Filtration and subsequent reuses would be the question

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah I’m going to continue to use it and see. I don’t think it would last any longer than ipa but will find out over the next month or so

[@BradDehnert]

@@UncleJessy If the resin settles out of the detergent quicker than the IPA, maybe you can wipe it out of the bottom of the container so that it's not stired back in? Might help it last longer.

[@Somnifuge]

@@BradDehnert I was thinking maybe you could siphon the detergent from the top down, then just clean up the residue from the bottom of the container (if it actually separates everything that well.)

[@KristofferNilsson]

My experience with a similar product from Sunlu, is that it lasts way longer than IPA/Methylated Spirits, but it seems to mess with very small and flimsy details sometimes. I use it in an ultrasonic cleaner.

[@TheIcemanModdeler]

I tested Fairy once with water, it was okay just required more work, i normally put some 99% IPA in a plastic cup and use a large brush to dip it in there and go over the print with the brush, it may take some work but no dirty IPA you'll get with a cleaning station.

[@ImperialArmGaming]

Could you use the detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner without having to bagging your prints in IPA and using a water bath in your ultrasonic cleaner like you normally would

[@kylepower9770]

Another Product I was told about to cleaning resin prints was Methyl Hydrate. Can be found in the painting section of hardware stores. Also it's $4.00 for 3.78L. I've been told its odorless. Keep in mind that it is toxic and very flammable. So if you are picking this stuff up, just be cautious about handling it. It was my local 3D printing store that told me about this product.

[@ScullyScurl]

"methyl hydrate" is just a weird name for Methanol or methyl alcohol. It can blind you, is very bad for your liver and toxic. Please dont use it for stuff like this, use Isopropyl alcohol. I'm a chemist and we use MeOH only when needed, and other solvents like Acetone or iPrOH for cleaning.

[@dandurocher993]

This is what I use. Cheap and no harsh fumes. Works great.

[@Tedlasman]

Methyl hydrate is methanol, it smells aweful. I use it, but i'm switching to IPA or a detergent when i finish with it.

[@shauntaylor9251]

@@Tedlasman That what speedway bikes used to run on , not sure if they still do

[@matthewcook5017]

This is helpful - thanks. I switched to a Saturn 12k Ultra (from a Mars 2 Pro) using Elegoo's water-washable gray resin, and notice there's MUCH MORE residue on the final printed models with that printer/resin combo than the old water-washable on the M2P. I use Mr. Clean Antibacterial (1:1 dilution) in a ultrasonic cleaner and find that I have to scrub the miniature with a toothbrush to get the resin residue off the print! I'm hoping that of these detergents might be a better option...

[@chrislock4656]

aromanating, I love that word, going to steal it :) I'm using some multi surface cleaner concentrate, 5lt tub £6, mixed in a ratio of 10 water to 1 cleaner. Gets my prints clean a treat, and they arominate a lemon flavour :)

[@EyeXombie]

I use water washable resin. Works great. Seems the same as the normal stuff to me.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

From my point of view the only reason to consider using these detergents is the ease of using them in ultrasonics. If you aren't using an ultrasonic cleaner then just use IPA. It will always do a better job and is much cheaper.

[@GregorifElfeNoir]

Is there any indication for not mixing the 2 ? I am wondering if I can fill my Ultrasonic cleaner with this non-flammable liquid and keep the IPA for the rest of my washing

[@shawnhicks619]

I can see a use for this product, but I’ve gone over to denatured alcohol for cleaning resin prints. I personally think it works better then ipa and it separates from the suspended resin far better then ipa. I know this is true since I tested 2 liters of dirty ipa and 2 liters of denatured alcohol sitting outside for a day. The ipa really never cleared up but the denatured stuff had 2 discernible layers in the 2 liter bottle meaning I can stretch my uses out further.

[@PcandTech]

What about the green detergents still using them?

[@ViperHotdog]

Is clean-up/removal any different than alcohol? Like, when you finally need to refresh and get a new container of detergent, what do you do with the old?

[@JamesBricknell]

I think this would work well for the massive Anycubic cleaner that sprays the print with water. Might work well

[@loadingpuhe]

id like to know if its possible to filter out the resin or clean the solution after its been used or how long will it take to get too dirty to use

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

In Canada I get a gallon of 99% IPA for $34, so about $25 US dollars. Get it from farm supply stores (UFA) or industrial cleaning supply places, the cleaning supply place offers 5 gallons for just over $100, so $75-80 US dollars but I don't feel comfortable storing that much in the house.

[@hicamajig]

I use ethanol since it doesn’t stink as bad and I can get it free from my work. In certain countries it is also cheaper or easier to find in bulk sizes.

[@NotParadoxish]

As someone who prints commercially, it's very, very hard for me to see the justification for these resin detergents. The results here are... okay? Comparable results for a higher price really seems like a major loss, and the truth is that a final (and very quick) acetone bath will produce cleaner prints than anything in this video. For me, dedicated resin detergents really need to nail all of these points: 1) Cheaper to purchase 2) Longer service life and/or easier filtering 3) Less environmental concerns with clean-up The third point is actually a big concern for me. I use both IPA and acetone, and once they're beyond the point where I can filter and reuse them, I can just put them outside and allow them to evaporate. That leaves a gross (but cured and safe) film of resin. These detergents add the extra step of filtering for disposal and the added concern that there's still suspended, uncured resin in a mixture that I need to pour down the drain. I... don't like that. With IPA and acetone, I'm literally never pouring anything that's come into contact with resin down the drain. IPA is also extremely reusable, so this stuff would really need an incredibly long service life to make up for its high cost. I can filter a gallon of IPA for months of daily printing on 3-4 printers, and I'm never really sure that IPA is totally beyond saving. I usually give up when it starts getting hard to filter it, but I've never actually had IPA so contaminated that it produces bad prints after cleaning. It'll eventually become nearly opaque even after cleaning, but I've noticed basically zero loss of effectiveness as long as you continue to remove floating solids.

[@thatguyownzz1481]

I actually asked you about this on X back in December. Even using gloves my skin is super sensitive to IPA the slightest splash and i have effects 😂 i am gonna try detergent. As yes IPA is cheaper but long run i think detergent is on par effects wise and is as reusable as ipa

[@UncleJessy]

You can also buy extra thick & long rubber gloves at Lowes/homedepot over near the paint department. Might be an option to try

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

@@UncleJessy check out veterinary supply places for extra long gloves... if a vet has to be shoulder deep in a cow they don't want a short glove.

[@stevecourtneyscalekustomz2602]

I use la awesome mixed with water to clean my prints, then a warm water bath

[@shumen930]

Now all that remains is to know the durability of the detergent in relation to alcohol and the best way and if possible to clean the remains of resin from the detergent. To find out if it compensates for alcohol or detergent due to the price difference.

[@smokeduv]

If you don't like the IPA odor like me, you can always buy non-denatured ethanol at 96% which smells less bad, it's way less toxic (but don't drink it because of its high concentration) and it's actually a bit better than the IPA, but it costs more

[@HuntersOA]

I use denatured alcohol as it is sold everywhere. You can buy it as paint thinner, in hardware stores, home improvement stores, etc. In my country it is quite hard to get IPA at reasonable prices :D I thought maybe this detergent would be a nice alternative, but not with this pricing. I have a suspicion that it will not be wildly spread and not much used, meaning it's price will not come down :(

[@mekpriestchris8746]

i would wonder what the Voc output of the detergent is. We expose ourselves to a lot between the resin and the ipa. So if its significantly lower voc's and non flammable I could see it verging on being better for those that are particularly bothered by either of those factors. But without that I honestly cant say it looks worth it if not.

[@Zeldur]

I've been testing an ultra heavy duty detergent from Home Depot called Simple Green Heavy Duty sku 853534 . Seems to work ok for the initial clean then I clean it again in.... Something. Been a few months since I've worked with my resin printer

[@tbbanimations]

Does this stuff evaporate or would it have to be collected for disposal?

[@3dpathfinder]

i have an Ultrasonic and simple green

[@brandonb417]

So if the resin settles out that well, can you pour the detergent off the settled resin and get a cleaner detergent, so it will last longer? Also, how do you dispose of this detergent? I can take the dirty IPA to a household waste facility (in the US) and they'll take it.

[@StevenKelley]

I have an ultrasonic cleaner with Mean green cleaner inside it as my 2nd wash, first wash is a dip in IPA in a bucket and swirl by hand. It take forever to dry the Mean Green but I can't use IPA for the risk of a fire with the ultrasonic cleaner. Is this detergent flammable?

[@UncleJessy]

This isn’t flammable and safe for ultrasonic cleaners.

[@scratchinjack608]

Thanks for the heads up. Call me "old fashioned" Sticking with ipa.

[@rllsryc]

How is the quality, strength, and flexibility of the elegoo rapid resin compared to the elegoo 8k resin?

[@guyfoxe]

I was using Mean Green. Bad bad. Went back to IPA, but now heard about this.

[@scottyboy6269]

Denatured alcohol leaves like nothing on the print, pull off supports on plate and ready to ship. Ipa should have been a 2 stage cleaning with second ipa bucket me thinks

[@raetheon8897]

How about mixing the detergent with the IPA??

[@SevenInSoft]

Did you finish the magneto statue yet?

[@TybaltS]

You forgot to talk about the fast and effiective cleaning x)

[@prodeous]

what about water washable resin. seems intresting.. my brother is using it as saves him on the clean-up costs

[@Becvar80]

It works on water washable as well. Please tell me he's not putting his dirty water down the drain.

[@tenchuu007]

Quality content

[@lewiskearney3797]

Spanish 99% Methanol for cleaning BBQs is the best resin cleaner I've ever found - takes off all resin, skin, fingerprints you name it, it cleans it off 😅

[@MammothPaige]

Very cool

[@kaiobenellifab]

Kg is for mass and L is for volume. Resin comes in 1kg bottles, but have something like 800/850ml, because resin is more dense than water, that is like the zero point in DensityxVolume. The detergent probably is less dense than water, thus having more volume.

[@0whitestone]

I'm new to resin printing and just did my first prints this past weekend. Elagoo Saturn S with standard reain. The quality is really impressive. I opted to go with the Sunlu detergent. However, I did notice that they feel quite tacky even after a thorough washing, water rinse, and curing. But, a few hours after curing the tackiness goes away and it feels completely smooth and the smell is a lot less as well. Is this normal for resin print in general or do you think it's because I use the detergent? I'll have to get some IPA and compare but I thought I'd see some thoughts here first.

[@TRENCHESandTREADS]

If it's tacky even after curing yeah that's weird. IPA for instance should be leaving the model completely un-sticky, even before curing. If the models are sticky even after curing? Either the detergent is leaving a bit of a residue or your models are 'leaking' from the inside and a very minute amount of resin is seeping to the surface.

[@0whitestone]

@@TRENCHESandTREADS I hadn't thought about resin leaking out, I didn't even know that was a thing. I will say one of the models I put back in the curing station for another 20 minutes, just to see what would happen and it didn't seem to make any difference in terms of the tackiness. But after 8 or 12 hours of just sitting around they were all smooth in the hand.

[@deadlyapollo]

Amazon basics 99% ipa pack of 12 (192ozs) is $24

[@tek9058]

check where they sell chems from factory, like hoefer in EU/germany. prices went up since the crisis, was 52€ for 20L 99% ipa now 84€. i use the jayo stuff, works in a cleaning machine and ultrasonic. having to deal with water and not ipa allows me to evaporate the remains in my heating room. can take a while but who cares, it will be gone in few weeks :-)

[@3dpathfinder]

I like your Dollar General IPA 😁

[@nywyfreelemental9231]

You can get 1gallon IP at most hardware stores for around 20 dollars

[@ERICKGTS250]

Seria um prazer ver as resinas da Quanton3d 🎉

[@GeekDetour]

Poxa, mas daí o Uncle Jessy não vai ter como comprar fácil. A outra pergunta é se a Quanton é fabricante ou só uma revendedora de resinas.

[@engweclips4302]

I have used lots of solutions during covid because isopropyl was pretty expensive in Canada. But I have used some local specialized detergents, and I have found them to offer the same quality as warm water + dish soap. It's fine in a pinch, but I like isopropyl the most because 1. it cleans the oily residue off much more consistently and 2. it dries a lot faster. If you end up not wanting isopropyl anyways, I would recommend getting an airbrush and/or compressor to 'push' off the water after washing your model, because it takes a while to air dry, compared to iso. Also a heater helps with that too

[@AustinLindstrom]

Aerating resin sounds like a bad idea.

[@engweclips4302]

@@AustinLindstrom no, it’s just blowing the cleaning solution off the cured model, so it can evaporate faster. There shouldn’t be any resin getting aerated at all

[@p4cca]

You don't need IPA - denatured alcohol or methylated spirits is far cheaper and chemically the same for the purposes of cleaning.

[@brycehardin7454]

um.. harbor freight has gallon 97% ISO for like 25 bucks. works amazing

[@quadlawnmowerman]

33% iso works just fine

[@chace4804]

High pitched sound from 4:26 to 5:30. Just thought you should know if wearing headphones.

[@CrashnServers]

Ahh, man, I gotta learn chemistry to make a 2 to 1 mixture? 😂😂😂 All jokes aside i have IPA containers. 1 is a gasket lid tub with dirty cloudy ipa i dunk in 1st. 2nd is another gasket lid tub which is cloudy but still can see the print in it then we use the wash n cure container which is clean. Doing this my IPA lasts all year.

[@aaron6963]

Since the detergent isn’t flammable try using it with a ultra sonic cleaner

[@666Azmodan666]

IPA costs me $12 for a 5L bottle. The small ones are sold in stores for the same price, but I recently found a manufacturer's store and I will never buy a 1l bottle again...

[@nova5224]

I use methylated Spirits. It's cheap and easy to get.

[@Tedlasman]

and toxic af

[@gingerdog8203]

Are you ever gonna finish magneto or did you just add more unnecessary plastic to the environment?

[@gsgidney]

2.5 liters is the bottle size. You didn't compare the detergent to "how much it makes" .... since it's a concentrate.

[@chrisspyroman]

Nail polish with Acetone purges resin residue even better than IPA and most importantly, it removes the resin aftersmell

[@atapene]

Do you mean polish remover?

[@CDRaff]

I feel like I must be broken because neither IPA nor resin smells bad to me or bothers my skin. IPA will make my hands really dry, but not much more than using a harsh soap like Gojo or Lava on them.

[@Benjamins_RC_Channel]

$40 for 1.5 liter?!?!? That’s crazy expensive. I get 99.9% isopropyl on Amazon. It’s $34 for 1.5 gallons with free 2 day shipping. 1.5 gallons is almost 6 liters! Also rubbing alcohol can be used to wipe down tools and workspace. If you have proper ventilation, then fumes aren’t a problem. I agree on the flammable part, but you should never have any open flames near your printer.

[@darkmoonmarket]

Given the cost and the fact I can't see a big difference, I'll stick with IPA!

[@lubovgeorgeable]

Do a test between this detergent and regular 99 cent dollar store dish soap.

[@donpaez1]

Galactus seems to prefer the IPA, as can be seen in his smile compared to the detergent.

[@mikesvirtualhikeandtours1721]

Denatured alcohol works great and is cheap.

[@BryanPearson]

What would be the difference between this detergent vs Simple Green?

[@o1ecypher]

where do you dispose of your water after you contaminate it ? i am sure you do what everyone els does flush it down the toilet or the sink.

[@ZaxMan3D]

IDK about you guys, but i prefer clear cleaning liquid so I don't have to fear any color contamination on a white or clear print.

[@mikedixonphoto]

I was kinda hoping for a joke about dentured alcohol.

[@UncleJessy]

🤣😂

[@SnyperMac1]

50% works in a pinch but you spend a lot more time scrubbing because it doesn’t break down the uncured resin as effectively

[@LordOcelot]

It’s De-Neutered alcohol ;)

[@generationxwarlock195]

simple green a gallon for $11

[@SolderSoldier]

Not flammable means folks could use the ultrasonic cleaners

[@ray24051]

I can get a gallon of hospital grade IPA 99% on Amazon for about $28 way less than what this detergent costs. So for $40 the amount you get of this detergent it's not cost effective to me.

[@Becvar80]

$28/gallon is ~$7.41/liter. The brand Jessy picked is way more than the others he showed. The Sunlu detergent is $39/3 liter, or $13/liter. BUT, after diluting 3:2, you get 5 liters, bringing it down to $7.80/liter. That a difference of pennies, and it's ultrasonic safe, fume free, and non-flammable. Still sure it's not cost effective?

[@lanesteele240]

It is not always the cost that is the issue. My cleaning vat stinks worse than the resin in the printers.

[@ray24051]

@@Becvar80 Yes the alcohol is still more cost effective for the fact that you can do more things than just clean your prints with it. You can clean your tools with it and use it to mop up any leaks if your fep sheet leaks and so on.

[@offearth3d]

Non-Flammable and no harsh chemicals... takin gall the fun out of resin printing.. 🤣🤣🤣

[@Protocol-X]

It's great to see alternatives, but considering I can get 4 gallons of 99% alchohol for 60$ on amazon, a company like this will never sway me to use their product. If you want to put out a product, it needs to be semi competitive with existing products, and this product cost is rather insane in cost.

[@killiandw]

Ipa qualifies as a FSA and HSA purchase

[@TheTelfeu]

I use 95% alcohol used to clean your house, works as well as 99% IPA and is a third of the price here in France

[@bigforkingdaddy8905]

Just as a fyi to all my 3d resin printing brothers. You can buy a 20lt drum of ipa 99% at an automotive spray painting supplies store for $130. You are all welcome

[@bwdnako]

So $80 to fill the cleaning bucket. The usability to cost is really going to come down to the longevity of the solution. If it lasts as long as standard ipa, seems like a hard pass item.

[@davidboop3550]

This problem has already been solved, water washable resin. Boom

[@twinturbostang]

8:20: Clearly, alcohol makes you happy.