CAN I SORT THE TRACTOR BRAKES MYSELF?

Time to get in and have a look at the Massey 135 brakes. As suspected, there is some work to do so what better way to learn than doing it!
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#fittingbrakes #masseyferguson #masseyferguson135

[@bren106]

You may not see movement of the bottom shoe when the drum is still off, it will only start to move when the first has reached the inner surface of the drum and there is something for force to work against.

[@tonyjover]

Yes, this, absolutely.

[@davidroberts7490]

Hi Tim😊. I think you would be safer getting yourself a heavy duty hydraulic garage jack and some heavy duty axle stands. Those quick lift jacks can be a bit dodgy. I agree with other comments that you might have to service and possibly replace all the linkage back to the pedal and handbrake lever to get your brakes working properly. Keep up the good work. You'll get there 👍

[@davidjennings9253]

Tim - I can't believe you don't have a decent breaker bar for those wheel nuts - much better than faffing about with impact drivers. Great videothough!!!

[@nathanlucas6465]

If you want to make getting the wheels back on easier (expecially easier on your back!) get the wheel as close as you can, then slide a shovel under it and use that to lever the wheel up.

[@jeremiahkearney5191]

For your safety and the safety of others never depend on the handbrake on your tractor. Best wishes on your farm and restoration journey.

[@dougsaunders8109]

Hi Tim, just watched Ollie from Bradshaw Joinery with his tel handler, watching him he had definitely driven one more than once before. The shoes will bed in which will improve the stopping power for sure. My first car, a 1969 mini, older than me, had drums all round. You put you foot on the peddle and the response was…… yes and….. from the car. Bedding new shoes in I used to drive with my foot on the break for a couple of miles

[@colinmottram4429]

Good effort Tim - job jobbed! Time to invest in a breaker bar I think ;) Regarding only a single shoe moving - when the drum isn't in place the actuator/cam will tend to move the shoe that is giving the least resistance...no doubt there is some natural play in the actuator that allows this. When the drum is in place and the shoes are well adjusted, one shoe will move a little, contact the drum, provide resistance and then the force applied to the brake pedal will then transfer to the other shoe. All looks fine to me. Personally I use solvent-based brake cleaner and a wire brush when cleaning/servicing - works well!

[@nigelweaving9045]

Copper grease on the wheel studs when you put it all back together. Makes life easier next time.

[@grahamredfern814]

One thing I always do is liberally coat all moving parts with copper ease. It certainly helps with the seating of hubs and future maintenance.

[@paulphillips2941]

The 135 is a smart investment... no ecu, no dpf, no adblue, no computers to go wrong 👍 Worth going through the whole braking system just to make double sure, if its cheap its worth changing and grease up everything that needs it. Looking forward to seeing the possible telehandler purchase at some point too!

[@tomvalentine9985]

Great effort Tim. Nice to feel that you can stop when needed! Very good choice and explanation of your decision to aquire the 135 ideal tractor for the farm. Oil leak from peep hole on engine most likely your rear crankshaft oil seal at the back of the engine. I believe there is an improved seal housing/seal now available from aftermarket suppliers. Over time the oil will contaminate your clutch friction plates and you may notice clutch slippage.If leak gets really bad you'll notice a drop in your engine oil on the dipstick. Tractor has to be split at engine to gearbox to get to the root of the problem. Looking forward to more videos with the little 135.

[@jix177]

Looks like a good improvement, no harm to get fresh pads on it. And they'll probably improve as they start bedding in. Though the 135s were never known for having great brakes anyway. I'd be wary about trusting the handbrake alone, especially when the engine is running. The vibration of the engine ticking over on a slope can be enough to gradually start it moving and possibly run away if left unchecked. Would be good to get a worklight for the back too, personally I hate not being able to use a tractor after dark.

[@gbentley8176]

Concur with comment on concrete blocks. Very dangerous as they go without warning. Axle stands etc yes, but old fashioned cribbing is also ok. Wood speaks under load as you know. Oily rag over the tractor and basics and she will last forever. Glad you are enjoying the new farm. Thank you for posting.

[@tomreid8696]

Back when that Massey was made, it was a fairly large tractor and on the farm I work on, it was their biggest, it took over from the tef and ted 20’s and still works to this day.

[@cliveadams4538]

When it comes to brake shoe springs, my dad showed me to assemble them on the shoes first and offer them up to back plate then put the four small retaining springs on last. Hope that makes it easier for next time.

[@MickRawson-j2m]

Yep correct springs first it’s much easier then the retainers. Use normal pliers. And it needs the drum on for the bottom shoe to move

[@Richard_OKeeffe]

New brake shoes will take a bit of time to bed in, a short drive pushing the brake peddle down will help, used to have to do that on my old Escort when the drum brake got wet

[@williamwales6619]

Tractor is a winner. Small piece of advice. When working with any kind of spring try to use vice grips to fit and refit.That way you don't nip your fingers. Later 👍

[@vaalrus]

We took on a task of reclaiming a farmstead from 30 years of abandonment, clearing back brush and whatnot, and setting it up as paddock + hay-land for horses. We had one of these tractors to run the sickle-mower and the hay rake, and it was an excellent match for doing sub-80 acres. I wouldn’t want to be working a full quarter-section or more with it, but it performed quite well. That one did have a loader on it, and it was *just* able to pick up a large round hay bale. With spikes on the 3-point hitch we could carry a pair out of the fields and back to the horse enclosure quite comfortably. It would be a little light for doing a lot of forklift work, but for farm choices it was quite all right.

[@tmmtmm]

Safety glasses when dealing with springs!

[@SCMaffs1985]

I love that you are living the life less ordinary

[@jamest5149]

Don’t worry about the bottom shoe not moving, when the drum is on the top one will hit the drum then the force will move the bottom one… its like banging two eggs together and one breaks… basically needs the drum to work and over come the stiction in the brake shoes The shoes need a bit of bedding in so use them a bit more than you may need… go quicker and break especially down hill to help the bedding in.

[@greatestgunner]

Anxiety crept up watching you with the springs and no goggles lol

[@JunkmailAccount]

Switch repeatedly CLOCKWISE/ANTICLOCKWISE for small impact on big bolts; this way you develop some imperceptibly small movement in each direction which works to free them up rather than trying to overcome the full torque in one go.

[@paulthompson8467]

Good video nice tractor we have one the same on our small farm in Ni if looked after they are very reliable 👍

[@listerthat]

There is two cam shaped lobes that both pads sit on on left side where the 2 springs are. You're lower cam is binding on the lower pad slowing or stopping it's full movement. You need to rotate that cam until the movement works fully. See video back you'll see the cam shapes on each.

[@54mgtf22]

Hey Tim. Love your work 👍

[@peterdnreynolds777]

Very interesting and very informative. I dont want to think how heavy those wheels and tyree are

[@malcolmjames1866]

Good Vlog. The brakes, from what I can remember, are single leading shoe brakes. The top shoe will effect a self servo action while going forward, and the lower shoe will only self servo if going backwards. Maybe, the lower shoe will operate when the top shoe reaches the extent of its movement, but I'd prefer to see them both move as the cam rotates.

[@vaalrus]

Heh. Whenever I see youtube Cooks dismissing the concept of Single Task Tools in their sacred kitchen, I come over all “Beach, hold my Toolbox”… just one session of springs launched into orbit and fingers pinched all to heck was more than enough to offset the cost of a set of simple brake tools. Not a moments regrets, even if it’s a task I only need to do every few years.

[@brianward9593]

Hi, Next time Tim you have it stripped down you should go that little bit further and check for wear on the cams and grease the cams, with the brakes shoes out the cams should turn freely. keep up the good work, regards Brian

[@navaraboy3000]

The oil leak underneath is probably the rear sump gasket, yours looks the same age as my 135 so will be cork not the rope version. You don’t have to ‘split’ the tractor to fix it “just” drop the sump and replace the cork and wider paper gasket. It’s an annoying job and had to do mine twice as the first time damage the cork putting the sump back. It could also be the rear main oil seal which means you have to split the tractor to replace, mine was a real hassle to get back together, replace clutch and pilot bearing while in halve. These tractors are 50+ years old now some oil is expected but if it starts pouring out and filling the bell housing the clutch plate will get covered in oil and slip. Someone has properly but that bolt in the weep hole to try and hide the issue, the hole should be open to allow the oil not to backup.

[@davidpitcher3940]

Slacken handbrake adjustment right off then adjust brakes then adjust handbrake last

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

The brakes are fine. They work in a leading trailing system that's balanced by the adjuster in the rear. Lots of different ways drum brakes can be done but none look like they are working right with the drum off. It needs the drum to push off of for it to all balance out and work. The direction the drum is turning dictates which side of that cam actually pushes on the shoe. It all pivots around in an assembly toward the pin and essentially wedges against the drum. Next time you do drums use something like Lubriplate or another white lithium grease on all the moving parts of the drum brakes including the threads of the adjuster. I did lots of drum brakes back when I was an ASE mechanic.

[@stoptheirlies]

Hi Tim, good vid mate but you need to pay attention to lighting

[@diane8885]

We fixed our toilet this am. Was feeling so accomplished till I saw this!

[@dennisreid4428]

Take the T out and clean it up with a wire wheel,then grease it and make sure it turns freely .they're prone to going rusty and jamming. like every car and motorcycle drum break. Also check the steel cables,they could be stretching because they are old and rusty... more editing... new copper washer on the sump plug

[@BrasherFox]

Very much like old cars before all round discs where fitted. Easy to do but obviously bigger on your tractor. When I fitted new pads, I fully tightened them on the drum , pressed the brake pedal a number of times then gave the drum a knock all round with an hammer, not hard hard to Centre the new pads then backed off to unbind.

[@markdebcam]

Tim, great content as usual. Mate , please don’t use a screw driver or similar for forcing springs etc. mate, I was splitting some springs on a Series Land Rover, I drove the screwdriver in, it had enough, and launched it self into my teeth 🦷.

[@bluethru808]

Oil will be the crank oil seal, I think the older ones were a rope seal, I’d use it and monitor it 👍 even the newer one like to leak

[@09conrado]

Blimey it could have been my Dad's tractor that I spent so many hours on ... we had the exact same tractor at my Dad's tulip growing business in the North Holland region. But then again, there were so may tulip growers then, and many had this one, or a Ford, or a David Brown... all similar great little tractors. Simple to repair and hard to get broken

[@TheRestorationCouple]

😀Will have to see what the logo on the sticker says, pretty sure it was a Dutch flower company.

[@09conrado]

@@TheRestorationCouple well my dad never had stickers on tractors, except for the dealer's sticker of course, which was if I remember correctly Van der Sluis, our neighbour.

[@alanrobins]

Great video But Please wear safety boots axle stands and when using the tractor wear ear defenders that engine will damage your hearing

[@johnjameson4819]

It needs the drum on to make it work right it will only work the easiest one

[@jonnyaykroyd]

Make a simple drip tray with Laser 6054 Oil Drip Absorbent Mat. It only absorbs oil, not water so brilliant for external applications.

[@justwannaridemabike]

First, yes! Go on Tim have at it!

[@mechanoid5739]

I think the hole in the backplate for the cam shaft has worn allowing the cam to move up when you apply the brakes. So it looks like only the upper shoe can move. When the drum is fitted, the top shoe will move first until it contacts the drum then the lower shoe will operate and contact the drum. The same thing happens with a hydraulic brake cylinder if it operates both shoes. It will move the easiest to move shoe first.

[@andyphillips7437]

A friend of mine used WD40 and heat and spent the next 2 months in the burns unit....And good luck getting new sponsors after sounding so ungrateful for the 12 months of free use of a tractor...

[@malcolmpas]

Agree - surprised how ungrateful this seemed to come across. Free (?) usage of a tractor for a year, what e benefit.

[@dannyfinch6700]

Are there any worn bushings on the t cam shaft?

[@johncoppock3823]

Treat yourself to a breaker bar and note the comments about rocking in both directions. Drop of waxoyl on the studs will make sure the nuts come off without a blowtorch next time. Don't overtighten and recheck nuts are still tighr once you have had aspin round the field. Drip tray for the oil. Eye protection when twanging those springs.

[@madeljacky]

25:37 definatley something still wrong with those brakes, you can skid the wheels of a 135 still sitting on the seat while applying the brakes, if you have to stand up while applying the brakes something is wrong with the set up, the adjustment or the linkages. Since asbestos was banned from being used in brake lining's the ability for the shoe to grip the drum was greatly reduced so even if your mechanical set up is perfect i find you still can have brakes that are not as good as they should be. On the positive side good on you for having a go at fixing the brakes, thats how you learn things, by giving it a go.Your oil leak at the sump is most likely the cork strip that goes between the sump and the rear main bearing cap, it goes hard with age and splits in the middle where the sump is pushing against it, have replaced a few in my time and usually no need to touch the rope seal on the crank until you are rebuilding the engine. Rev counter in center of dash says its an early 135, probably 1965 or 1966, the manufacturing date of the sump is cast into the bottom of it on the slope where it bolts to the front axle, this date is usually a couple of months or so before the tractor was made.

[@peterwilson8132]

Get that roll bar on my cousin lost her life when her tractor rolled!!!

[@clydedecker765]

You need to turn that spring (from the back until it rubs and back off a quarter of a turn or so. That way the shoes rub at the slightest touch but not when the pedal is engaged

[@DDNMYWORLD]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@martynbuzzing3327]

New brakes never work right until they bed in, and do not work very well is reverse at all. Be careful when parking uphill. 😊

[@SuperRobread]

Audio a little low on this one?

[@SomeRandomOldGuy]

Nice Tractor. Had one similar for years. Just have your head in gear if you get off a tractor on a slope! (ie to close a gate)

[@aidenjohns8248]

The hole in the lower shoe was opposite to the cam.. is the cam the right way around, 90 degrees out.. good luck..

[@martynbuzzing3327]

You need to invest in a breaker bar to break the nut away, and then use your impact to remove the nut.

[@johnjameson4819]

Your stabilizer bracket are back to front spud should be facing the nut of the lift arm

[@madeljacky]

Correct, the amount of tractors i've seen like this is unbelievable, the center of the stabilizer spud and the center of the lift arm nut should be dead in line with each other

[@digivine1800]

Copper washers on the nuts will do a great seal for you.

[@arronlea4731]

Check out the link below I reckon that would suit you perfect

[@nirvairsingh1678]

👍👍👍👍

[@MARTINA-gc3tq]

Did you deglaze the drums ?

[@mintsauce563]

Get yourself a 1/2 breaker bar

[@simonruddy8265]

Disappointing to see the amount of rust on the chassis, rear axel and underside of the tractor considering it's new!!!! Sand blast the brake assembly and give it a lick of paint, 10 min job. Strip, clean and lub joint and actuators. Put the spring on the shoe first then mount the shoe. on a fluid brake system it normal one side won't move until the other is locked out, we tested this by holding a screwdriver against a shoe and locking it against the back plate, once locked the other shoe will move.

[@jonb8241]

20:45 … please work smarter, you only have one chance with your back (I know from experience) … you young enough to be able to lift like that, but will regret it in the future when you are laid up and can’t carry out daily tasks around the farm.. 👍

[@rotinkerbell]

I notice my concern that you are rubbing down brakes and ancillary parts without a mask on. Please protect your lungs, throat and mouth. All sorts of nasty carcinogens in there. Please wear gloves. Secondly may I encourage you to not lift things alone.. Lastly, safety when using the tractor, Please get a roll bar protections, and get proper supports when removing the wheels. Safety First! x

[@nonoyorbusness]

So many variants on drum brake adjusters and none of them worked properly without fiddling and swearing with numb fingers! Please get an anti roll bar fitted.

[@laapulsford]

I am sure those brakes ar not setup correctly. When they are adjusted and working properly, they should easily lock up the back wheels. Looking at the effect when you performed a test on the small slope, the brakes are hardly working. This is probably dangerous, especially if you apply the handbrake and then when you opening a gate the tractor rolls on top of you. Farming is dangerous, don't take risks. PS, check the linkage, it might be misaligned as to achieve mechanical advantage the system might use levers and these might be wrongly setup.

[@northtustinsteamworks5172]

No safety glasses?! Brake jobs are no joke!!