CAN IT PANEL LINE? - Can You Panel Line a Gundam Model Kit With Household Pens?

[@MechaGaikotsu]

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[@undeadboll]

apparently according to a comapny called clarus who make white boards and the pens: " The difference between dry erase markers and permanent markers is the kind of polymer used. Permanent markers use an acrylic polymer that helps the pigment stick to surfaces, while dry erase markers use an oily silicone polymer."

[@ronesquad4057]

Hi ihave a question can a water based calligraphy pen crack the plastic

[@Oma_Ender]

I started out panel lining kits with fine tip sharpies and I've had 0 problems with it breaking down plastic long-term and by long-term I mean 7 years

[@anho0101]

What do you use to clean up the excess?

[@ishanparikh5587]

@@anho0101 I personally use a drop of water on an ear cleaner (forgot what those are called lol), and they work well

[@NightBladeSpearichu]

@@anho0101 I tend to use a damped paper towel.

[@Oma_Ender]

@@anho0101 Use to just use a wet q tip, nowadays I just use back washing and panel line markers to panel line

[@kianung5873]

I use an eraser

[@polkpunk9]

I literally bought artist fine liner pens and I’m so happy I came across your video when I was looking up how to panel line! I will be using them with more confidence now for sure! Thanks MechaGaikotsu!

[@nisnast]

This sort of weird experimental content is why I love your channel, Mecha, my grey pour type panel liner is starting to run dry and this video came out at the perfect time!

[@Jcc2224]

I like exclusively use fine black sharpies for black detailing on my kits. I don't panel line my kits, but I go in with black for vents or facial details on Gundams. I find it has a very clean glossy look to it, and I personally have no problem wiping it away with my thumb. I've always had hands that are rarely ever dry, so perhaps my finger oils are a contributor to it. I've had amazing results with them and I highly recommend them for black detailing if you're wanting it to have a clean, glossy look. Be warned tho, if it ends up in a crease or crevasse you don't want it in... it ain't easy to remove. I've been using them for years and have had no issues with it, doesn't fade or damage the plastic. Other sharpie colors will fade tho, such as red or yellow. Great video!

[@Sidkalikot]

I've actually been making gel-pens work, but as far as experience goes they work better on darker colors, it'll absolutely stain white

[@mr.gunzaku437]

Really I never thought about gel pens. The different color combinations would be nice. How long does it take to dry?

[@adityakpximipa1144]

@@mr.gunzaku437 eh, probably 5-10 minutes

[@travelingkenny1477]

I have gel pens with sharp tips and is easy to remove overflow works well

[@josephdonnluna4483]

I also used it too.. Dong-A gel pens works well but it takes a few days to dry... I rather stick to Uni-pin 0.5, 0.3 and 0.1mm pens for now..

[@EcnoTheNeato]

So I know you mentioned the Sharpie Paint-based markers, but I gotta re-emphasize them. Using Silver or Gold to panel line some of my kits makes them really POP! Really took my "easy detailing" game to the next level. And because it's liquidy, it spreads slightly over surfaces but has enough tension to itself to not completely run. Biggest gripe: Even if cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, it gets kinda smeary, so try not to goof!

[@jasterthefathyena1843]

a q-tip, slightly damped with lighter fluid makes cleaning Sharpie lines up super clean n' easy. Works much better than the isopropyl

[@Kawashimaofficial]

I've goofed tons of times on things with Sharpe Silver, and I unfortunately used a nail polish remover to get it off and I didn't know that it contained a whole lot of acetone.

[@EcnoTheNeato]

@@jasterthefathyena1843 Gotta try lighter fluid. Bought it ages ago for hobby stuff and barely used it. Thanks for the tip!

[@samuellangley6936]

Yeah lighter fluid for the win, either zippo or the ronsonol. I use the gold, silver and white oil based paint pens from sharpie all the time.

[@henrysandoval4794]

You should do a follow up video seeing on how the household pens possibly affect the plastic

[@stuartrockin]

I've been using an artists fine liner for years. Called derwent 0.1. Comes in a pack of 3 and often is in hobby stores. The ink flows nicely and cleans up quickly with just a paper towel and dries with no issue. No cracks, no fuss a good alternative to official liner pens

[@potatochobit]

you mean Graphik Line Maker?

[@ShreenathSiriyala]

Did it age well?

[@solidsteak]

For anyone curious I have used Sharpies and other similar permanent markers in the past, and will semi-regularly use the green and red sharpies to add small bits of color to a kit. Some of the kits I've used them on are a couple years old and don't show any signs of damage so I'd say feel free to use them with minimal risk

[@urcprunner2065]

The first kit I tried to panel line, my 2nd kit overall, was the Full Mechanics 1/100 Barbatos Lupus. My panel lining option was a mechanical pencil I had around my place and I've had the kit almost 2 years now and you can absolutely tell that I used pencil on it

[@sulpheralchemist]

I've honestly used sakura micron pens for ever and they work fine. They are similar to the artist fineliners you show but are archival ink so dont fade or anything like that. you can also get color sets of the 005 nib

[@nimblebimble]

I’ve had major problems ruining the nibs, or at least I think that’s what happening, because they just stop working and no ink comes out. I have such easy access to micron pens, so they’re my go-to. But, I seriously won’t be able to get more that one kits’ worth of panel lining out of one 005 pen. Do you have any tips? Are my gorilla hands just pushing too hard? I try to be as gentle as possible, but certain angles seem to require a bit of pressure…. I’ve yet to hear of someone w a similar problem using microns.

[@thomasmassey4232]

I found the mico pens work really great as a well just have to be really careful and steady

[@thealliedpowers]

for me the ink just beads up and doesn't adhere, do you topcoat it before or something to give it some stick because the microns definitely did not work for me

[@drunkenfarmerjohn42]

Fun fact: Dry erase markers will clean sharpie.

[@ReRoute25]

The pencil lead doubles as a weathering tool also.

[@Kawashimaofficial]

Hey, that's a good idea! I'll have to try that out sometime.

[@joshuasvideogroud3693]

Thats what I thought for several of these

[@GrilledTomito]

I recently started using black acrylic paint and alcohol as a thinner. Then I use a tiny paint brush as a flow style panel liner and it surprisingly works well.

[@The_last_prime]

lol i used to do the same

[@Sth809]

Whiteboard marker + pencil eraser really worked well on me

[@remdayot457]

Back in my early gunpla days I used to make do with art-grade acrylic paint diluted with water. It filled in the panel line just fine and can be erased very easily since art-grade acrylics are water based.

[@j1836]

I'm going to assemble my very first Gundam Model Kit this weekend, and this video gave me the confidence to be creative and make something as best I can with the little resources I have. Wish me luck, and thanks for inspiring me to pick up this wonderful looking hobby!

[@OmegaErkz]

Sakura Micron 003/005 Fits INSIDE the smallest of panel lines, and you just run it along the line, with no mess/cleanup. Colours are vivid af. Still on my kits in the same colour after like... 10 years.

[@10t-achmadfatanf67]

Yesss this is what I needed

[@Atrasees]

Sakura microns are a godsend. Nice lines, quetips for cleanup and you can produce nice fades on bare plastic as well that look like preshadeing.

[@jrdnwlcx]

My first gunpla (MG Barbatos) was panel lined with sharpie. To clean the lines, I used a large pencil eraser. Worked almost as good as gundam markers, IMO.

[@t26e44]

I’m still using grey sharpie to panel line after something like 2 RG and 4 high grades. On the Nu and the unicorn I kind of like how the grey kind of smudges on the white. It makes the gunpla look slightly dirty. I can clean the grey sharpie to the point where it doesn’t smudge at all by rubbing it with my finger a lot but I like it slightly smudged. Sometimes it’s annoying to get it into a small area, but other wise I’m fine with it

[@rolvirata9003]

I destroyed my MG GP03S using Tamiya Panel line. It completely ate through the parts of my model. That being said, I tried using it again and it was perfect for my MG RX-78 3.0 when I sprayed each part with varnish BEFORE using the panel liner. Live and learn. As a bonus, the varnish left a non smooth surface that was less "plastic-ey" that I loved.

[@shiroamada89]

Tamiya panel line really will crack gunpla.. I don't know why it happen like that.. Certain parts won't crack and fill nicely into the lines.. My MG 00 7 sword G long sword crackes and brake after applying.. Need to use cement to glue them back together.. For me using enamel paint and thinner is better than Tamiya panel line accent

[@nhutminh9290]

did you panel line it when you already assemble the whole kit ? that prob why

[@lylestratos6880]

I've just been using gel pens and fine liner pens as well. I think it depends on the brand and how much ink it releases. I kinda like the slight dirtiness it gives since, depending on the placement and it's messiness/staining, it gives a slight weathered or dusty/smoked coat like on vents. For white parts, it gives it a... slight use and not new rollout. But that's just me, We're all builders and have our own styles. Will read more comments to see people's takes and their use of things as well

[@Sth809]

I tried one with whiteboard marker Certainly not that harmful to the plastic Although if you dont want weathering effect on some lines Then get a cotton swab with alcohol or water Update: pencil eraser works the best on erasing the excess since it will also get rid of the mess it did Beside if the ink really dried off the plastic though

[@Sth809]

Also worked pretty well on my eg rx 78-2 and astray red frame kai(the tactical arms)

[@advent5092]

After trying couples of pens and markers, I say that the Sharpie fineliner and White board marker do the trick. The Sharpie is good when you panelining ledges, edges, etc... while the WB marker can fill the gap line pretty good and easy to clean(a wet tissue is a you need). But be careful, the sharpie is kinda slip on the plastic surfaces, so you might want to sand them a little bit. That's my experience, hope that it can help you guys at least a little bit.

[@bloomarsbar]

Dspiae's Soft-tipped Brush Markers have been my go to right now, its a bit less than your usual Gundam Markers and amazing colors option too. They are a saviour for my IBO kits instead of applying stickers I color them in instead then your usual top coating to secure the paint job.

[@Aserbic]

*checks drawer* - Gundam markers - Sharpie Metallics - Artline Metallics/ Supreme - Uni-ball Signo - Tamiya Panel Accent - Mechanical pencil Disclaimer: I only use em to detail small parts and use the Gundam markers and Tamiya accent on panel lines.

[@atlusc]

I've tried some of those methods before. The artistic fineliners work wonders, and you can even find then in size 0.05. I also tried a 6B pencil and got nice results for a cheap and quick method. Another one I used is water-based black ink, which is a bitch to clean but you can get the darkest lines ever if you're into that

[@Kawashimaofficial]

My main issue is finding things that are small enough. The smallest thing I've got is a dead 0.3mm Pilot Hi-Tech C Knock S. It has ink in it, but it doesn't come out anymore for some reason.

[@OverseerXIII]

@@Kawashimaofficial the ink has probably dried up

[@aronkovacs4730]

A pencil (I used 8b) can be also used to create a gunmetal look in larger surfaces by the way.

[@tyronesaurus910]

These mecha gaikotsu videos pop up every single day... keep it up

[@Thenewbagman]

I started with regular inking sakura 0.5 pens long time ago. It works,but not with the same results as with some especialized pannel liners.

[@milejucureg6915]

I heard that the gel pens are kinda useful for panel lining, i tried using it and it worked its kinda just like panel line pens and easy to remove some excess ink

[@Sth809]

Wait a min how do you erase the excess?

[@milejucureg6915]

@@Sth809 rubbing it by finger. Cotton/Cotton buds WILL leave some excess ink. I tried it on my real grade 00 raiser and it worked, but there was still excess ink on it, then, i tried rubbing it again, and it worked also.

[@MrHaibarbe]

I have a whole arsenal of Gundam markers, also the fine and pour-style ones. But in the end, I always go back to the Tamiya Panel line accent color. Imo it is the best way to panel line.

[@edwardgeronimo1018]

Hello, I just got my first Gunpla, HG RX78. I saw your video by chance last week and used a water marker I had in the house. It was a little messy but it was a good tool for a beginner, SUPER THANKS!!!!!

[@tylertrego1276]

I used mechanical pencils very often when I first started out. I liked the subtle color and control I had over it but over time I learned that I much prefer darker paint panel lines. I use the Gundam panel line pens when I am being lazy but really prefer tamiya panel liner or valejo model wash. I might have to give the colored sharpie pins a try though because I've wanted to do colored panel lines but didn't feel like mixing paint. Great content.

[@OverseerXIII]

Been using artist fineliners for years now and I suggest using one that has 1) either a 0.1 or a 0.05 tip and 2) oil-based as it does not fade over time as much as the regular fineliners.

[@arvinnetwork23]

What you use to clean up the mess?

[@OverseerXIII]

@@arvinnetwork23 a good wiping with just a tiny bit of alcohol

[@arvinnetwork23]

Ow okay. Steadler fineliners did you try? They have .03

[@vustvaleo8068]

there is actually official Gundam Marker branded mechanical pencils that comes with spare leads, also speaking of Sharpies affecting the plastic I still have a kit from almost 20 years ago that I panel line with Sharpie and the plastic is still intact to this day.

[@lemeres2478]

I find silver sharpies can allow you to get silver panel lines- which can be very helpful on black plastic. You can just use a pencil eraser to rub it off without solvent if you do it when you first apply it and it is still wet. I manage to panel line even with big old fat sharpies like that.

[@minimoYT]

Got my first gunpla this christmas, the humble pencil can't get into the grooves, but the subtle grey does accentuate the details without making it look too cartoony. Honestly I might just get a 0.5 mechanical pencil and use that for any white parts in the future, it looks pretty good imo

[@kenerickelijalim5268]

I started with artist fine liner pens, then tried pencil, and recently, used waterbased acrylic paint marker. Needs a lot of cleanup, but am happy with the results

[@draketheduelist]

A guy in my build group emptied some spaz stix chrome paint and some airbrush thinner in an emptied out pour panel liner bottle and now has some really slick homemade chrome panel liner. Works great on black surfaces, but _HIGHLY_ experimental. I don't think the dry erase will hold up long term simply because of what I know about them. Their solvents are basically anything and are difficult to look up because it's one of those things they never thought anyone would ask. All I know is that, back in the day, there used to be PSAs telling kids not to snort markers to get high. (Funny, these PSAs were often better at teaching me how to get high than my peers ever were...) So whatever it is, it ain't water. Probably some kind of alcohol, but I have suspicions that there's something else in there. Alcohol washes _can_ break most dry erase marker stains, but still requires some effort. I learned that from when I would buy dry erase boards from thrift stores and restore them.

[@TheLegacyDan]

When Moon Gundam came out, I got some colored artist fineliners for it. They. Are. Great. I was able to hit up all the lines, make it clean, and now it sits proudly on my shelf.

[@Camo_Ink]

I used my artist fine-liner to panel my hmm berserk fury and it’s been alright for the 2 years I’ve had them! Additionally just used a mix of fine liners and metallic sharpies to weather a astray red frame so hoping for the best there- it looks super cool at minimum.

[@StevenAbootman]

i used to use micron pens religiously until i started panel washing. i still use the micron pens in some situations. my pens are .35 mm which is kinda in between what mecha used. the .35 gets in more areas than the .8 but delivers more ink than the .1, however i still think panel washing is best wherever possible. loved seeing other stuff used for panel lining. i use a tamiya accent liner (black), and testors enamel thinner for the removal part. i use a really light amount of thinner on a qtip or a tip of a napkin and remove the excess, works pretty well, never have any issues. if you paint your gunpla like i do, make sure to add a clear coat before you panel wash because the thinner could damage the paint you already did.

[@modelmanjohn]

At craft stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby, you can get artists pens, that come in numerous colors and tip sizes, from 0.25mm andsmaller.

[@michaelbelonio3342]

I started mine with an artistic pen... The same one he used but it was a Staedtler Marsmatic pen (technical pen) since those are the ones I have back when I was in school... Still looks good on my Gunpla and no cracking of plastic...

[@millar876]

I started using the same 0.1mm artist fine liner you used here. I now have a grey and black gundam fine tip panel liner pens as well as making my own with watered down acrylic model paints

[@raellaneta6832]

You know your addicted to gunpla when you know what kit he pulled these parts from...

[@CurtisDishman]

Haven’t watched the video yet, BUTTTTT mechanical pencil is perfect for black/really dark parts. Adds a nice metallic panel line especially good for certain light.

[@CurtisDishman]

Yes I stand by this, it’s not great for light colors, but for darks its amazing!!!! 8/10 Also .5 in my experience

[@ameeruliskandar993]

Agreed, it looks great too. For white plastics, I usually do more than once so the line becomes more darker.

[@lizziebutdiff698]

Next episode would be: "Can mecha complete a gunpla"

[@Kelvin_Foo]

Mitsubishi Pencil and Gunze actually have an official Gundam Panel Lining mechanical pencil, it uses 0.3mm leads. Another method that works is thinning acrylic paint of the desired color with a drop of dish detergent to reduce the surface tension and improve the flow. This method will clean up with water.

[@93gamrx]

My first kit was an HG Wing Zero earlier this year. I had no supplies except a permanent marker and a dry erase. Marked with the sharpie, cleaned up with the dry erase. It worked quite well actually and by my 2nd kit I had gone and purchased panel lining markers. I was hooked 😅

[@jasonstimson6617]

Can you please make a playlist of all your tutorials and these types of videos, it would be extremely helpful 😊

[@SentinelSentry15]

I used Mech pencils, Fine tip sharpies and artist fine liners all work well and so far havent harmed my kits :D

[@heromedley]

finally a video to show people to stop them from using anything that sorta looks like a gundam marker

[@brybosch]

I use regular pencils but I sharpen it with an electrical sharpener and then use an X-Acto knife on the graphite to make it super thin. Works really well for me

[@bensayeed953]

I often add small extra detail with pilot permenant bronze/silver fineliner for mechanicals.

[@AstreaGT]

I've always used a fine tip Gundam marker but I've moved to the Tamiya bottle. If you like pour type you'll love the Tamiya stuff. Magic.

[@alexgao2587]

i use Tamiya's panel liner paint, like the pour style, just don't spill it as it weakens the plastic i also use sharpie for bigger areas (mainly the knee and elbow joints or small "screws" which come through from underneath the armour) or the bottom of feet and inside (non-light up) thrusters and inside of big vents, as it helps break up the sea of plain grey with some shiny black

[@douggoins2960]

I generally use tamiya panel line accent. Black and dark gray to be exact. And all the horror stories I've heard, I have never had any part Crack or break from using it. Then just go over it with a little lighter fluid on a qtip

[@StevenAbootman]

same here doug, i use the black accent liner and it kicks ass every time. i use testors enamel thinner (a very light amount on a qtip) and it works well to remove any excess

[@NeoGato2point0]

I personally use fine tip sharpies and they work well. Any pump type fine tip works wonders. Metallic colors really pop on dark plastics.

[@industrialillusions22]

I only ever use Uni pigma fine liners to panel line all of my 30+ kits :) the difference in sizes from 0.03, 0.05, 0.1 ect. And the range of colours too is make them so great !

[@RivanEXT99]

My former work senpai panel lines his kits with a paint brush and some paint. Considering he used to draw/paint as a hobby, he made it work wonderfully

[@ultimatedevilshrimp3927]

when i was a kid, i used a sharpie to line and a paper towel sprayed with hairspray to wipe away the excess sharpie marks. Did it to my HG gunpla and they never gotten ruined

[@SliceyMcBreadmaker]

my personal favourites are Brush tip markers - they kinda act like a combo between the pour style and the white board markers, and using a simple eraser got rid of the excess! Really made the Moon Gundam pop with all the extra lil colours it's supposed to have!

[@miloszivkovic6256]

Just got into hobby in a country that doesn't have proper supplies, best thing I found for cheap are those shading pens made from solid graphite, ofc use something soft

[@snukastyle]

Artist fine liners at 1.0 are my go-to markers when official panel liners aren't available, though thankfully Gundam markers are easy to find now a days. I've tried Sharpies in the past, but the "ultra fine" ones which ended up leaving thick lines, but were better than nothing? The idea of using alcohol to clean up the access wasn't even in the ballpark back then.

[@suhritduba7634]

i actually use a black expo whiteboard marker to panelline. I just scribble into the line and wipe it away with a tissue paper. It has GREAT fades, and has a nice dark finish.

[@paulalagar892]

I use acrylic paints thinned down by isopropyl alcohol. Works like the tamiya panel accent but does not attack the plastic

[@VicariusTV]

I use both enamel panel liner and the artist liners you used. The brand of the black pen you used also comes in 0.05 and 0.03 if you want thinner lines than the 0.1 (which imo is already too thick for anything except MG/PG scale kits). It's also available in both dark and light grey!

[@brwhite5368]

I used watered down acrylic paint. It stays better than watercolors and you can make new colors if you want to. So long as you remove the excess quickly it wont stain your plastic.

[@JDguy11222]

I panel line kits using a mechanical pencil. The difference is, I use an exacto knife to shave off some of the lead so it fits into the panel line way better. After that I just use some hand sanitizer to rub the excess off. (I do not know whether hand sanitizer is harmful to plastic)

[@Kawashimaofficial]

I haven't gotten around to buying Gundam panel liners, but I tried a 0.5 mechanic pencil on my RG Wing Gundam Zero EW XXXG-00W0 a while ago, and it worked pretty well, but it was too light. I recently tried a blue ultra-fine tip sharpie "marker" on my RG 0-Raiser, and it worked sort of well? I had some problems with rubbing off the ink. I also tried a pale-green ultra-fine liner to line the GN sword II's and GN sword III from my RG 00 Raiser. It looked amazing, but it didn't stay long. I ended up using a light-green Sharpe Ultra-Fine tip liner on the swords, GN condensers, (you know those RG GN condensers are one solid dark-grey piece) and the GN drives and even though it was light green, it still ended up looking pretty amazing. I've been too scared to panel line my Nu Gundam without real panel liners, because I paid $70+ for it because of its unavailability in my location.

[@kut.g.8391]

The very first panel liner i used were Gundam panel liners, but they will dry up after some times. Later i use artist liners, mechanical pencils, Sharpies and Tamiya panel line accents, and they are useful and have great effects. However, the solvent use to rub off the panel line accents might damage the plastics.

[@starhunter78]

The dry erase/white board markers come in various colors as well. as what they are made of not fully sure but they do not have the harsh toxic chemcials that sharpies have. this clip-it from the wiki (One type of whiteboard pen (also called a whiteboard marker or dry erasable marker) was invented by Jerry Woolf of Techform Laboratories and later patented by Pilot Pen in 1975.[8] It is a non-permanent marker and uses an erasable ink that adheres to the writing surface without binding to or being absorbed by it. Applications range from temporary writing with acetate sheets (for use with overhead projectors) to whiteboards and similar glossy surfaces. The erasable ink does not contain the toxic chemical compounds xylene and/or toluene, unlike permanent markers.)

[@TheDarkestPhoenix]

I don't think I've ever considered using gel pens for panel lining, but on grabbing a random piece I had around and, well, that worked better than I thought. Uniball Signo 207, with the .5 MM ball, I didn't have the same issues you seemed to. I have been using sharpies (fine tip) and never really noticed plastic degradation, though a sample size of my mediocre collection isn't hard and fast proof it doesn't. Might try whiteboard markers, that seems fun, though I seem to recall they kind of get faded even by the end of the year, if I remember school correctly.

[@timogul]

Yeah, I used to use Sakura brand fine-tip pens from the art store. They worked great, and rubbing the overages had a nice weathering effect.

[@mrdavrui]

I use "edding 1880 drawliner 0.05" you can use an eraser or a rag to clean the excess. I try several liners and those are the best and don't fade away

[@jwye1989]

I started off with sharpies and I haven’t noticed any breakage as of yet but the hobby is still new to me. I’m glad to know about the expo markers though lol

[@haroldemondjr.6790]

I have a HG Hazel that I got years ago that I used a mechanical pencil on and it looked great.

[@phat_gunpla_etc]

love your humor with your kit reviews! keep them coming! happy new years!

[@DexterPrieto-e5s]

Mechanical Pencil (sharpoened, over flat finish) and pigment pena like unipin and sakura are my favorite and I've been using for years. the whiteboard marker is interesting, might give it a try

[@bakitto6933]

This was surprisingly helpful. Thanks Mecha Gaikotsu. I really dug the blue fine point permanent marker

[@fen4554]

Dry erase makers are made using alcohol and silicon. It won't hurt your kit but I've tried this and it didn't take long for the color to get faded.

[@garrison778]

I actually use metallic gold and silver sharpies on HG kits. Usually for like vernier, pistons, exhaust ducts or tubes, Vulcans. Or add color to break up a primarily black or white kit.

[@saiahmad3513]

love it, personally i like to scour the lines with a chisel before doing the panel line markings so i can give more balance look

[@dead2no1a]

Might actually be onto something with the dry erase, very unique video.

[@supercopmeetthecop]

I use a pencil that I've sharpened with a knife to have a really fine tip, but I only really ever panel line the faces of my kits to make the Gundam's "mouth" and the side vents pop a bit. It ain't much but it gets the job done and I don't have to stress about any long term problems.

[@Chessie-Steam-Special]

What I do, water and black acrylic, gets in the crevices, enough acrylic and it stays enough so when you mess up it keeps anything that should stay, be ware it does darken if you just rub, so use like a wet q-tip

[@gundamnmechas8518]

A Uniball black pen is how I panel lined my 1/100 Savior back in 2008; doable, but wouldnt dream of doing it to a master grade, real grade, or even a good high grade. Thank God for Tamiya

[@BareFool]

For the mechanical pencil, you can sand the tip at an angle to make the point finer to reach some of those deeper panel lines. :D

[@s_77_studio]

Acrylic paint "pebeo" type work too. Paint on your lines let dry and with a toothpick erase the paint on the bottom. I use it year ago before "internet tutorials" and work pretty well, but it's a pain in the ass to clean this way. Do it only on HG or smaller.

[@sewhitewolf]

Great experiment. Definitely some tips to take note of here for sure

[@thinhle8325]

The GM markers for painting also works wonder, too. I once used the GM 08 on my HG Marchosias, mostly on his sword/mace wings& 4 mini swords to pop up its signature details just like images given by Bandai. Cleaning is the same as usual & I highly recommend using these markers on any dark-colored weapons (it doesn’t always have to be yellow btw).

[@akiragale532]

I use a Bic 0.7mm HB #2 quiet frequently and after a top coat it looks wonderful.

[@wheelbite9]

You really need some Tamiya panel accent liner. It's just perfect.

[@WindBreaker-hn5fz]

Sharpie is good for filling big recesses or smearing on to create a quick battle soot look, like they've done nothing but melee and barely dodged explosions.

[@retrodave4493]

Actually, use sharpie and rubbing alcohol. I then apply weathering and a couple coats of matt clear. After that I touch up the bullet holes with a metallic sharpie and add a bit of chiping. This is how I paint my UC Gunpla, but the original stuff, zeta, and zz.

[@oz420ct9]

Can't wait till that led video!!!! Wink wink nudge nudge. Love the channel!!!

[@maksymiliusz8713]

I tried panel lining with w&n art ink and it actually worked, however if someone were to try it I'd recommend mixing it with a little bit of water because it's too thick, and the cost of the ink and some nibs etc. is similar to cost of the gundam markers so unless you have that stuff in your house I wouldn't advice you to use it (but hey, it works)