Can my DIY Spacemouse compete with 3dConnexion??? - SpaceRat V2

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Hello Guys, I just want to add 2 comments. 1. If you build one, you have to set in the preferences of Fusion 360 to take Tinkercad commands otherwise the Arduino code has to be changed. Changing the code is also relatively simple though. 2. For some reason a lot of comments are deleted by KZbin after publishing. I just wanted to let you know that it is not me. I never delete comments.

[@alejandrogomezlozano283]

Hi! It´s an amazing proyect. Could we talk by email?

[@peterr.4768]

This thing would work with any CAD Software? Like CATIA V5?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

This works with every software where the navigation is handeled by keyboard and mouse movements. I would recommend to watch also the first video where I explain how it works more in detail.

[@OzziemandiasPL]

Thanks for sharing this. Can you share with me the positioning of magnets? They need to push away the button one (to make it stay in the center position) or connect with it?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

@@OzziemandiasPL you are welcome! The 2 side magnets has to repel the middle one to keep the middle one in the middle. I explain in the video the orientation. + - - + +-

[@marsgizmo]

love the progress, well done! :)

[@agarza6475]

So far, this is the best version of a Spacemouse clone that I have seen on KZbin. I am definitely planning on making this one! I am looking forward to seeing your 3rd version of this. If I haven't built vers 2 by that time, I will make vers 3. Thanks again for all your hard work!

[@duongquang1102]

I am going too. if you make vers 3, please share it.

[@docstrench948]

Interesante sería que la versión ³ tuviera forma de polla para momentos de aburrimiento. 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣🤣😂🤣🤣

[@StezStixFix]

Awesome video, Kiki! Great work 👍

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thanks a lot Steve 😉

[@tablatronix]

A gyro and hall effect? Amazing, I was expecting some bizarro mechanical solution. Love this

[@tablatronix]

I bet a strain guage/load cell would be great for the other axis, this way it cam measure deflection and you dont have to make anything actually rotate or anything, just tiny pressure CW CCW

[@PeranMe]

Oh wow, that’s a HUGE improvement over the previous model! Well done!!

[@joker_g7337]

Great job! I know it took hundreds of hours to come to this point because I'm doing the same. I follow exactly the same goals: cheaper and easier 3D mouse. My design is a 2 stage knob. The upper part of the knob does the rotation while the lower part of the knob does the translation. I published the version 2 on Thingiverse yesterday! I still need to do the code. We are at the same point. I will be following your progress with great attention. :)

[@rodolfobonnin6011]

Can you share your project?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

You can find the link to my Github repository with all the files in the video description.

[@rodolfobonnin6011]

Yes, I meant joker's one. Thanks!

[@blanchau]

Joker, please link your project. Kiki, thank you so much. I have subscribed, and look forward to version 3, but for now, my parts have two more hours on my printer before I start building v2.

[@SkultétyBendegúz]

Marha ügyes vagy! Nagyon testzik ez a project! van egy orbion nevű hasonló project a neten, hátha a dokumentációja segít a version 3-ban. Nagyon jó az angolod is, csak így tovább!

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Köszönöm szépen! 🙂 Igen, ismerem az Orbion-t. Dolgozok a 3. Verzión már. Natív 5 tengely már meg van, a 6.-on szívok. Szerintem 1 hónapon belül már lesz valami.

[@SkultétyBendegúz]

​@@kikihobbyrepair az orbion nativ 6 tengelyes? most rendeltem be hozzá minden alkatrészt

[@kikihobbyrepair]

@@SkultétyBendegúz tudtommal nem létezik natív 6 tengelyes DIY projekt. De az Orbiont már rég láttam

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Most néztem az Orbion-t. Konkrétan leírva nincs, de mivel csak egy joystick és egy encoder, szerintem az max natív 3 tengely lehet. De nem néztem meg részletesen.

[@SkultétyBendegúz]

​@@kikihobbyrepair szerinted mennyire lenne nehéz egy olyan photoresistor - led kombós megoldást csinálni mint az eredeti connexion-os spacemouse? abban ugye van 6db led meg 12 photoresistor és a kettőt elválasztja 1 fal résekkel. Ebből számolják, ki a poziciokat. ez hardveresen elég könnyőnek tűnik, szoftveresen már érdekes lehet.

[@MakingforMotorsport]

Yes mate! I do like this… those space mouses are like £130 and I don’t even spend that on cars! Excellent work! You’ve got a sub from me! 👍

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thanks a lot 👍 I hope you find this helpful.

[@D-Khaz]

Great project. For v3, you should consider a pair of custom PCBs. Also, maybe consider increasing the base to add some steel or lead weights to keep it in place. My spacemouse probably a .5 KG in the base…

[@stijncuijpers]

I printed the parts, and waiting on electronics to arrive.. thanks for making this, exited to see what will become of V3 :)

[@mukuldas4001]

Wow its amazing, keep it up looking forward for the new version 👍😊

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thanks a lot

[@martinem78]

Fantastic! I just built the Orbion Space mouse using a Raspberry Pi Pico instead of Arduino. I only realized the Pico was much bigger than the Arduino pro micro once I had printed the files. I have managed to make it work none the less. Your project has given me a lot of ideas as I set out to design and code a version of this for the Pico with Solidworks. I really want to tackle modes so functionality can be programmed in for different applications. Arduino seems like it is much further ahead in that regard as compared to CircuitPython. Keep up the great work! and Thank you for sharing this inspirational build.

[@cristian77]

Hi, I'm thinking of building this spacemouse with raspberry pi pico, would you have the code you used to share with me? Cheers

[@kikihobbyrepair]

The Code for the Arduino pro micro is available in my Github. Link in the description.

[@rogernichols8150]

Hello KiKi...that is so cool great job 👏 👍 so enjoy your videos 📹 please keep them coming 🙏 😊 and here to help get your videos 📹 😉 out to everyone 😀 😊...cheers 🍻 mate 👍 😀

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thanks a lot for your continuous support Roger! 😉

[@MrLockjuls]

Awesome work man!! I love this project!!

[@TheWreckingYard]

Very interesting project, best part is that I think I have all of the parts! One thought is to add a twisting action of the knob using hall effect sensors similar to the way that the zoom function works. Just thinking out loud that I might want to add a calibrate button to reset the zero point of the mouse/accelerometer when I'm not using it on a level surface. No matter what an interesting project that came up exactly as I was thinking about buying a 3dconnexion mouse, looking forward to V3 as well.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. As I told in the video there is an offset calibration after power on in the code. In the v3 I plan to add twisting too. The biggest problem is the software and driver though...

[@JackJazz-rc5ut]

Hi Kiki, coul'd you please show us where are connected tne four USB wires? (Close up picture, if possible). Thank you very much

[@Elephantus1000]

Great job! Many people asked about adding twisted action axis - so and me too.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

I might do the next version with twisting mechanism.

[@Elephantus1000]

@@kikihobbyrepair I will wait and hope for it. And - have you thought about making the `final` model in DLP 3d printing? They get cheapr last years.

[@GrechStudios]

You have some insane skills sir

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you but I am only an average guy 😉

[@ddegn]

I want to see someone fly a quadcopter using the SpaceRat as the controller. I once used a Wii Nunchuck to control a small RC helicopter. I think a Spacemouse/SpaceRat would be more intuitive than the Nunchuck. I used the accelerometer on the Nunchuck for yaw and throttle control. Twisting the SpaceRat could be yaw control and the throttle could be controlled by pushing and pulling on the SpaceRat vertically. Thanks for sharing your great project.

[@primozkaluza3621]

Hi, how is it going with v3???

[@meisterodin1981]

Awesome project. I'm currently working on a version to be used with Blender. So far I've been able to add the twisting motion using the same MPU6050's Z axis gyro. The code is not very different from the one using the hall effect sensor, and it seems to be working quite fine (although I must admit my coding skills are not the best). I'll keep you posted as soon as I complete it. Keep up the good work!!!

[@vesslades]

Did you ever finish it? :) I'm building one of these now and I'm interested in the code

[@meisterodin1981]

@@vesslades Hello. Yes, I finished it. I made two versions: One with the MPU6050's Z axis gyro and one with a rotary encoder. I'm happy to share it with you, but my files are a bit messy at the moment. Give me a couple of days to organize/upload everything to Thingiverse and Instructibles .

[@vesslades]

@@meisterodin1981 Wow, thanks mate. I would appreciate it very much!

[@meisterodin1981]

@@vesslades Hello. These are the links to the videos of my finished project. The complete info is in the links in the description. Hope you find it useful!! Cheers. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpykoYGhrL6bjac and kzbin.info/www/bejne/hH7Op4ONjLKdiqs

[@vesslades]

@@meisterodin1981 Cool! Thanks a bunch! Will take a closer look at it all when I get some me-time :)

[@sandrolauer350]

Nice work. I also did one my self with a joystick, some modifier buttons and an Arduino aswell. But I ended up buying the 3d connexion mouse because it really lives and dies with the software, as you also figured out. I think they do a great job with the software and I always had problems with the mouse input. Using MouseMux it was hard to reset mouse position and without you interfere with normal mouse. And anyway for some programs like PTC Creo there are actions like rolling you can not do with key press emulation, but only with 3d connexion software. So I stayed with the original and appreciate their work.

[@mvelentzas]

Incredible work! Thank you for making this public

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you!

[@claudefialkowski8791]

Good evening. Excellent video. On the other hand, could you tell me the connection of the four wires of the USB socket. There is no indication on the diagram Thank you for your reply

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. Just take a look at a standard micro USB connector pinout online and follow. These are all standard.

[@aurion61]

Can you please explain your wiring, so all blue wires are joined at the 2 resistor and capacitor? I just want to clarify this right?

[@ariedam134]

You have a lots of subs now! Congrats !!!!!!!!

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you :)

[@acetteleung]

Thank you for open source it. I'm going to make one. The 100nF capacitor isn't listed in the part list. Is it mandatory? I haven't one on my hand.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you! Yes I realised the missing cap later. It is part of the debouncing circuit. Better to put it there

[@brucemarsh4521]

If you could make the ring around the button able to spin, and connect it to a rotary encoder, then you could get the rotation you were wanting. You could put the encoder below the ring, with a gear on top of it, and put gear teeth at the bottom outside edge of the ring, facing in towards the rotary encoder. You could add three extra microswitches around the ring, wired in parallel to the rotary encoder's switch, so wherever you press the ring, you'll get a rotary encoder press. A crazy idea for another degree of freedom: Get a pressure sensor, and set your spacemouse on top of it. Then, pressing down on the spacemouse, or applying lifting pressure could control an axis. You'd probably need a large dead zone, and you might want a switch somewhere, to make it easy to disable the sensor, of you're doing something where you don't need it, and it could just cause spurious inputs. I'm sure you've tried just picking the whole thing up, and using the accelerometers as a vertical axis. That might work if you're using your other hand to hold the base. There could be applications where that would be good. You could even add buttons at the base ring, for the fingers and thumb of your off hand. Awesome build! It's amazing what you've done with so few parts!

[@alfadex50]

That is great! I cannot understand can you move it diagonal?

[@AttilaTamas112]

Hi. Great alternative, it is well worth for the price! Thank you for making and sharing. I have just finished mine, had to tweak the code a bit. I have also made an autohotkey script so now I can use it without any problems for TinkerCAD, the cursor always stays in the workspace and i can infinitely scroll, zoom, pan etc. However, for unknown reasons the distance between the main cap part and bottom spring holder was too short, as if the spring was shorter than needed. I had to improvise and saw a ring off of the bottom of the main top bell part so it can move freely. I am also planning to re-print the parts with modifications so that there is no need to solder an usb cable to the arduino, it can plug in directly, for now i have filed a hole in the bottom cover for the plug :D definitely a work in progress but super satisfying already considering the fraction of the price of an original space mouse

[@ncfacanvass5028]

Awesome work, thanks.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you!

[@Bezulba2]

Building this now, but what's the reason for soldering on the usb wire instead of just plugging it in and glueing it in place? There's enough space for the connector. The resistors that the wires need to be soldered too are REALLY tiny and i've got big hands.. :P

[@Sttreg]

nice ! i really like this design ! great job

[@zlane71]

Thank you very much for sharing this awesome project.

[@carlmorse1510]

Kiki, I just made the space rat mouse and got it working on the first boot! I used a USB C micro and a small prototype board. With the usb C i did not need to solder on the cable to the micro. I also used a slightly longer micro switch. I am going to look at your macro pad next. I printed the parts on a Bamabu Labs A1 mini with no issues.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Good job! 🙂

[@wongyick4328]

Can I directly insert the micro USB to Pro Micro mainboard ?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

You can if you make a bigger hole to it. The reason I did not do it because USB connectors are rather big and fragile. But it is doable

[@AttilaTamas112]

@@kikihobbyrepair hello, awesome project. i am just building it, how do i connect the cable to the arduino? which pins? what is the value of the two resistors r17 and r18? by chance my ears are correct and i hear a hungarian accent: easy rider ocseeem! :D thx

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Szia. Köszönöm! Jól hallottad az akcentust 😀 Az R17 és R18 rajt van az Arduino board-on már(22Ohm) Azt csak szemléltetésnek raktam oda. Csak nézz meg egy micro USB portot és ott megtalálod a pinout-ot. Akár a portot leszeded és a pad-ekre forrasztasz, akár az utána következő komponensekre.

[@AttilaTamas112]

@@kikihobbyrepair uu bakker, nem szolt a TeCso, hogy valaszoltal, koszi szepen epp most irtam uj kommentet, sikerult beuzemelni. vegulis reszeltem egy lyukat az oldalan, hogy ne kelljen cinezni az usb-t, moddolom majd a modelt is, azt ujranyomtatom. kicsit pofoznom kellett a kodot is, hogy mukodjon ahogyan nekem jo, en foleg TinkerCADhoz fogom hasznalni, mert a fusionhoz egyelore hulye vagyok :D apro AHK scriptel sikerult elerni, hogy mindig a TinkerCAD munkafeluleten belul mozogjon, szoval lehet donteni tekerni ahogy tetszik nem lesz gond. azt nem ertem, hogy miert lett alacsonyabb az egesz, mintha rovidebb lenne a rugo, de lefureszeltem egy gyurut a fo resz aljabol igy nem akad meg az also takaro gyurun Koszi megegyszer, isteni fasza, hogy aproert ilyen praktikus segedet lehet csinalni, igy nyugodt szivvel mondhatok le a 3dconnexionrol

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Örülök, hogy összejött és hogy tetszik 😉 Nyilván ez azért nem egy eredeti Spacemouse replacement, de szerintem egész jól működik és egy jó kis DIY projekt. Esetleg az autohotkey scriptet elkérhetem? Amúgy pont tegnap este álltam neki, hogy hogyan lehetne megcsinálni úgy, hogy ne a billentyű/egér kombinációkat használja, hanem mint az eredeti, a kamera mozgását módosítsa. Az a baj programozásban gyenge vagyok, meglátjuk mire jutok...

[@tomlsxbox]

Great, very nice construction!!

[@coskuarsiray]

awesome project! i will try to build one.

[@amolshelke9924]

You did it very well but got the same issue me(I used some keymaping and joystick)....and the there is one more we cannot pan,orbit and zoom simultaneously...

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Yes, the only way is to do it properly is via script.

[@amolshelke9924]

@@kikihobbyrepair do you have it???

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Oh no.... I am not even sure I will be able to do that part.... Programming is my weak point

[@JBC120]

so I am a year late but is there anyway to take a custom order for someone who doesn't know how to do this?

[@hugoflorez7152]

Hi you miss one item on the list c1 100nf can you put the description to buy it please? And thank you very much for your work

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. Yes, you are right.

[@Afro3dprinter]

Just found this, amazing work :)

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you

[@MatterLabz]

Very impressive design!

[@henryjudas]

Amazing work, well done!

[@ВячеславШихалев-с5х]

Hi Kiki. I put together your project, but for some reason the zoom out button and the upper round button do not work. I am sure that I did exactly according to the scheme. Do you have any clue?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Are you sure all your wiring is correct? Do you have all your arduino libraries installed?

[@HlGHPlNG]

Very nice! I am curious... could a future revision of this use rotation of the stick itself in place of the rocker switch on the side? Seems it might make the design, build and operation all a little easier. What I picture is (if you pause at 5:14) a post coming up from the base to under the hall sensor. Or maybe even simpler, move the HES down to near the bottom of the stick and the magnets could be in the base. Because it is all on a spring, it should automatically return to center on release. IDK, just throwing out ideas. Again, very cool idea and build. Thank you for sharing.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you! Yes, rotation can be solved. But the problem with your ideas that you cannot put the sensor on the top and the magnet to the base because you would generate rotation action also by bending the top because the magnet will move in relation to the base. The only way to put both onto the top and and separate the 2 there on to of the spring. This way if you bend, no rotation will be generated.

[@HlGHPlNG]

​@@kikihobbyrepair thank you for taking the time to consider my ideas and respond. I now see the issue with my concept. I will give it more thought (although I suspect you have already solved this ;) I am most definitely going to build one of these. Thank you for sharing your design freely with the world!

[@un_ours_blanc]

I just saw the price of the simple version of the 3d connection spacemouse, and really your alternative is far better in terms of affordability

[@jeucedahn]

hello! Not enough likes for your project. very good, thanks you!

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you! 🙂

[@ricardopereira3461]

IF you want I can help with the documentation and design of future iterations ! Great job I am ordering all the parts to assemble and test one!

[@sebakiller9736]

Nice project and thanks for this Stl Files

[@rogalewskip]

Oh, i was wondering... Would it be possible to make a controller that would look like reversed trackball? A sensor knob hovering on spring(s) over a dotted ball? You could track the pattern and use for axis control? Zoom in/out (pull up/press down) would also work probably

[@MrEdwardhartmann]

One question - is there any reason that you did not just expose the usb connector on the Arduino so you could just plug in the cable instead of soldering it in?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

These micro USB connectors are really shitty and it is anyway on an awkard angle in the case. Ijust did not want to make a huge hole slightly on the side. Here they are soldered and held by the hotglue in place. Furthermore I added a cable tie onto the cable wo you cannot pull it out from the case

[@MrEdwardhartmann]

@@kikihobbyrepair Well, I think you have a great project here and I might try and recreate it myself. I do most of my modeling in FreeCad, but I am sure that it would be easy to adapt the code. I think I would look at making the top button a capacitive touch button instead of a mechanical button with an LED to indicate the mode and I would look at making the entire knob rotate for the zoom feature instead of having the side slider button. I think the mpu6050 could be used to capture that rotation as well as the angle changes and make the electronics part a little simpler, but the mechanical part would be a little harder. But, I find that trying to solve these design problems is where the fun is.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Have fun 😉 One tging you have to take care is if you want to use the MPU also for the rotation you need an additional sensor which is detecting if only the knob is rotated or the entire mouse together with the base. Otherwise you would generate ritational commands by slightly rotating the entire mouse on your desk. The capacitive button I like. It would be a nicer solution indeed.

[@MrEdwardhartmann]

@@kikihobbyrepair Great point - I had not thought of that, but that would be a problem. Maybe using a detent similar to the one you designed with a hall effect sensor and three magnets is actually a much better solution. By the way, I did not mention it before, but I love that "auto centering" detent design. Did you come up with that yourself of did you find it somewhere else. I am old and have worked in electronics my whole life and I have never come across a detent like this - I think its genius.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

It just popped up in my brain how to solve it smartly without too much moving components 🙂 This is when I though magnets shoukd work. Although if we would use a similar hall effect sensor to check if the know is rotated or not in relation to the base. So the MPU and the hall effect could work together.

[@sabqed]

I am just learning Fusion 360 for 3D printing. This project looks perfect for me. I know the space mouse does not work with Apple, does this? Also can it be assembled for right hand users?

[@geterdnboy]

Did i miss the capacitor on the required parts

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Yes, I am sorry for that

[@Lefty3d103]

nice im going to build this one !!! or is there already a v3 video? looks amazing and fun build and very handy

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. There is no V3. Because of patents it might be tricky unfortunately....

[@Lefty3d103]

@@kikihobbyrepair oke np I have ordered the parts for v2. 👌

[@Lefty3d103]

im wondering. should the mouse also work with for example prusaslicer? or need it different programming. which program do you use for programming Arduino?

[@omert4533]

Thanks for sharing and making available to everybody such a valuable project. I appreciate the value added to the community. I also would like to ask a question. I'm a newbie to Arduino and wondering whether the computer recognizes it as a HID device when you plug it in from Arduino's usb port or soldering the connections you suggested is a neccessity.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. PC is recognizing it as a Mouse and keyboard. Soldering is only to be able to put the wire on the middle. Wires are soldered to the same points like the usb cable connects to.

[@kampflafer4774]

Are the two Resistors connected to the Capacitor in the circuit diagram because of the small dot ?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Yes, they are connected.

[@kampflafer4774]

@@kikihobbyrepair thanks, im building mine right now The parts look awesome when printed in resin

[@kikihobbyrepair]

You might have to finetune the dimensions for resin but it will for sure look awesome 😉

[@kampflafer4774]

@@kikihobbyrepair i changed all the fasteners to m2,5 and added the threads right into the parts, it took a few prints until i got it perfect. glueing the Magnets in was pretty hard

[@kikihobbyrepair]

I would love to see how it looks resin printed. Could you please send me some pictures at the end to [e-mail] ? Yes, installing the magnets is tricky 😀 Strictly one by one.

[@DerRCModellbauer]

Nice project. I also have a 3d mouse on my to-do list. Do you think it would be possible to realize the 2 axes (push right, left) with Hall sensors? Then you had all 6 axes. My idea is a plate that is located at the bottom of the case and can be moved to the right and left.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. The problem is the software. There is no keyboard/mouse combination to solve the 6th axes. It is 5 axis now basically.

[@nohomeforfreepeople2894]

@@kikihobbyrepair Why not a game controller input? Have it as a joystick.

[@JordanHaisley]

This is really cool, I’m considering building one, because I think it could be better than the spacemouse. I understand they have cost constraints, but the spacemouse wears down rather quickly. This could be built with machined aluminum instead of plastic like the spacemouse.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

The huge advantage of the original is the firmware and driver. I simply cannot reprodukate it...

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

Is it working system-wide with all apps supporting 3D mouses? FreeCAD, Orca, Fusion, ... or is it the compatibility limited?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

It works with all the systems taht are controlled by mouse and keyboard commands. You only have to change these commands in the code for different apps. Now I am working on the V3 which is true 6DoF already and communicates with the original 3DConnexion software :)

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

@@kikihobbyrepair ok so it's a mouse+keyboard emulator. This means that, for example, FreeCAD 1.0 will use the current cursor position as center of the rotation, while with my super old SpacePilot the object rotates irrespective of the position of the mouse. Good you are working on a compatibility layer with 3dconnexion drivers, that would be a huge step forward. Are you already aware that they changed the approach sometime around 10.5.6 and FreeCAD 1.0 will not accept anymore devices not supported by this newer (well 6 years old or so) drivers? If you emulate an old SpacePilot or similar (which is easy) you will not get support in OnShape (and browser apps in general) and FreeCAD. Ideally you could emulate a SpaceNavigator (the puck), which is supported until the second to last version of the drivers, and also by spacenavd (linux drivers), so it might be easier and more future-proof. Good luck!

[@bzyan9878]

wow, excellent project!

[@miriamramstudio3982]

Cool project. Thanks!

[@merseyless]

Why not use a joystick from a game controller in the base? One on the base and one on the side would achieve the same goals with a smaller bom count, unless I am missing something.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Game controller joysticks are super small, fragile and the potentiometer is wearing out pretty fast. With the spring you can put your hand onto the mouse without damaging it and it will not wera out.

[@L-ps1003]

Does this work with other CAD software like Solidworks since its just mimicking mouse/keyboard commands?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Yes, it does work with all softwares which works with keyboard and mouse combinations. You only have to change the relecank combinations in the code.

[@waynekillian7261]

Great project, thanks for sharing. Definitely looking at building one. Question: Can it work with SolidWorks? What wattage do I need on the resistors?

[@peterfriedrich5939]

Sure that the spring is 25x8 not 20x80 and where can i get so one

[@kikihobbyrepair]

yes, it is 25 x 8 mm. Look for 3D printer heat bed spring. You will find a lot everywhere.

[@CreativeJE]

Wow this is really cool project 🙂

[@jacobbiro4054]

hey I just put one together and I'm having interference with my mouse, when I plug it in I cant click on half the stuff on my screen, for example in fusion I can click the sketch and circle but once at that point it cant be placed. also happening on everything else. you have a solution? thanks

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Have you set the navigation mode to Thinkercad in Fusion? This would be my first bet.

[@jacobbiro4054]

@@kikihobbyrepair hey i just figured it out i had the hall sensor wire touching at the tip and I fixed it.now it works thanks for this great product

[@kikihobbyrepair]

I am happy to hear this man 😉 Have fun while using it.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Now it is time to build my macro keyboard 😜 It is an another nice addition to 3D modeling 😉

[@jacobbiro4054]

@@kikihobbyrepair So it seems I haven't fixed the problem. its stuck on scrolling and right click when I plug it in, I have checked all the wiring and I haven't seen anything. I have unplugged the hall sensor to see if its that but still the same issue. Im assuming its the code or maybe gyro?

[@MrEdwardhartmann]

Nice project. I am doing some hall effect projects myself and I have found that the A1302 is a good substitute for the 49E and was a little easier to find in bulk. And of course, the A1344 hall effect sensors are all over the place, but they are not linear and will not work for your type of application.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. Yes, here I need a linear one. But I coukd buy 10 of them from Amazon below 10€ which is not that bad.

[@andrbolla]

hello is it possible to have the link of the components? Does it also work with PTC's 3D cad?

[@bridevalley]

This is excellent! Great work. Thank you for publishing. Do you have any recommendations for where to order the electronic components in Europe? I'm looking for alternatives to Aliexpress...

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. I ordered everything from Amazon. You can buy there everyrthing slightly more expensive. I might put together an Amazon link on my github page when I will have time.

[@bridevalley]

@@kikihobbyrepair Amazon links would be really helpful - if you have the time! Thanks again!

[@nohomeforfreepeople2894]

Does this translate into 3d orbit when rocking? Have you thought about adding maybe a rotational component in the base? I think an affecter wheel and an eye setup could make a non electrically connected rotating part. Also, I noticed that it moves in 4 directions instead of following more the movement of the spacerat. is this because it is using keyboard commands?

[@moussi22]

What is the function of C1?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

It is to eliminate the debouncing effect of the button press.

[@IgorIlicGigo]

Perfect project! What is a wire diameter of spring?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. It is a flat "wire" spring. It is ca 1,75 x 1 mm

[@geterdnboy]

I made one but I get no inputs at all it shows up as a mouse but no movements

[@kikihobbyrepair]

It looks like something is wrong with the MPU module. Is it wired uo correctly? It should move the mouse even in windows or in a browser.

[@geterdnboy]

@@kikihobbyrepair possibly I was up late working on it last night today I will rebuild it on the breadboard. I could have a bad MPU there are always complaints under cheap components on amazon.

[@kikihobbyrepair]

You could also check the I2C address of your MPU module. There is a resistor which can be soldered in 2 positions to have different address. Tale a look at it.

[@XianyuKen]

Hi Kiki I tried this but when I connect spacemouse v2, will lose left click botton any idea about this? thx

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Have you changed to Tinkercad settings in Fusion 360?

[@XianyuKen]

@@kikihobbyrepair thank you for reply no I didn't maybe I should try on other computer I don't have C1 100nF but I guess it not Influence Gyro working I also try other people version have similar problem, it will try to open other fusion or explorer many times

[@kikihobbyrepair]

But you have to set Fusion 360 control settings in the preferences to Tinkercad. Than it should work. The 100nF is just some filtering it is not that critical.

[@XianyuKen]

@@kikihobbyrepair thanks for the information I try to use other PC same situation for loss my left mouse botton but Gyro working no chance to try Hall sensor yet

[@vnagaravi]

How about cloning their design there are bunch of teardown They used photoelectric sensor in space mouse its easy to find

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Yes I saw tear downs. At the moment they have quite a few patents. I know that for myself I could build one with no problem. Furthermore I did not want to be a copycat. For the v3 I will try the 3 spring setup though.

[@grossinlionel253]

Génial, merci merci !

[@hans-dieterjung4026]

Thank you for sharing your project. It is simply enormous because the circuit is kept so simple and only a few components are needed. I've been thinking about such a project for years, but I don't have the right knowledge of electronics and programming, but a lot of ideas in ergonomics and form design. As a program designer from the 80s to the end of the 90s in CAD/CIM, the mouse has always annoyed me. i hate the keyboard with Shift+Ctr+Alt plus right mouse click. 3dconnection is too expensive for me. I am a pensioner. So your DIY Space Mouse with 12 buttons with small LCD ergonomic all around, that would be ideal. Similar to the large 3DConnection models. I would hardly need the keyboard anymore. I work hobby-like with SolidWorks (ancient), Fusion 360, Davinci Resolve, Thanks again for your great work. HD

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you for the nice words!

[@hok1511]

Hallo, kann man die Maus irgenwo kaufen? Hello, can you buy the 3D mouse anywhere?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Hello, no, this 3D mouse is a DIY project. Only makes sense if you build it yourself. All the documentation is available for free.

[@hok1511]

@@kikihobbyrepair Habe leider kein 3D-Drucker

[@lego3438]

Printing, waiting Arduino, and have fun. Maybe on Monday I try it=)

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Have fun 🙂 Hope you like it.

[@MetalArtDesign]

Hey would it work on iOS iPad I’m looking for a Solution?

[@ramblinrake]

No

[@MetalArtDesign]

@@ramblinrake 🥲

[@der94alex]

have you watched a disassembly of an original space mouse? the magic is just some LEDs and light sensors Great Progress from the previous version 👍

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Yes I saw tear down of an original. I just did not want to copy it.

[@sailingbelow8306]

Genius project. what kind of spring are you using ?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Look for 3D printer bed springs. You will find these easily

[@sailingbelow8306]

@@kikihobbyrepair I thought so. Thanks for the feedback.

[@dwaalex]

What filament are you using? It looks really good! Thanks for making your design publicly available :D

[@kikihobbyrepair]

It is Prusament Galaxy Black PLA

[@markkalsbeek5883]

This is really cool! I watched a spacemouse teardown and 3D connection uses optical sensors, have you considered copying their approach more directly?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you! I just did not want to copy the original. I wanted something different 🙂

[@markkalsbeek5883]

@@kikihobbyrepair Ahh, cool! Project is awesome regardless!

[@paultakoy7091]

Awesome job!

[@ovechristophermattmann880]

Hey man, after almost a year of usage now, do you still like working with it? What do you think about it?

[@richardvansoest]

Wil this work with a wemos D1 also ?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

No, you need a microcontroller (module) with native USB connection. I think the Wemos D1 does not have this.

[@0O_oo_O0]

Well thought out and done. Will a model (assembly) appear on GrabCAD?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. Files are published on Github. Link in the video description.

[@tomasnavarro7680]

This design looks cool but if includes buttons to change standard views, in the base

[@rogalewskip]

Does it work with SketchUp and blender?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

It works with each and every program where you can navigate with the help of keyboard shortcuts and mouse movements. For sure the code has to be modified accordingly

[@ngryyellow1533]

This is crazy bud, thx so much. How complicated would it be to code some push buttons on this arduino? I would love to add some hot keys on the base of your design, and I am wondering if I can make them work for the comon features. You know, extrude, sketch, fillet, chamfer, measure... the most used ones

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Stay tuned for this weekend video and you might get a solution to this 😉

[@ngryyellow1533]

@@kikihobbyrepair love it!!

[@MisterkeTube]

This is just screaming for a custom PCB holding the sensors, button and an MCU (attiny84?) all on one board reducing the footprint and the amount of wires ... Well done!

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. Yes a custom PCB is the plan bit you need 2 anyway. The MPU must be at the top and the cable has to come out at the bottom. Attiny84 is not good because you need a microcontroller with native USB. This is why I use the more expensive pro micro and not only a cheap nano.

[@MisterkeTube]

@@kikihobbyrepair I thought I had seen code in the past using an Attiny as a USB HID device, but I'm unsure. Well, an STM32 could also do the trick or the MCU of the Arduino, but then without all the unneeded stuff ...

[@N900ADM]

Well done!

[@MicroMageRepair]

interesting device! My first thought went straight to video editing lol

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thanks Micro. Yes, could be used for a lot of things.

[@Toxic-jt5eu]

Absolutely love this. Would it be possible to use a USB C cable?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Thank you. Yes, if you make a hole at the port, then yes. But it would not be in the middle.

[@PeetHobby]

Is a spacemouse not just a joystick?

[@kikihobbyrepair]

Not at all 🙂 A joystick is usually 2 axis. An origibal spacemouse is 6.

[@thekingou]

J’aurais aimé une vidéo du montage! Pour moi c’est pas très clair pour le montage! 😰