Can the Secura Duxtop 9100MC 1800W Induction Cooktop Boil Water?

I've been trying to explore new ways to use the excess energy that my off-grid system is producing. Since my electric range is still connected to the grid because of the amount of power it consumes, I thought I would try one of these induction cooktops.
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[@johnbarber6662]

My results were much different. Ran boil test using 2 quart water, then 4 quarts water with the cookware being stainless pots then a frying pan. Took 4 minutes on setting 9 for the 2 qt, 8 minutes on setting 9 for 4 quarts, and the fry pan started boiling a quart in about 3 minutes. Various other pots had mixed results with my expensive cookware taking more time. The stainless and cast iron blasted off and heated quickest of them all. PLUS when I turn off the induction the heat stops like a gas stove would which is what i wanted. My electric stove top has lingering heat for a very long time. That worry now gone. Appreciate the video. Used same appliance.

[@samanthagaboo5610]

This is what I needed to know, thanks!

[@peteanddrake4242]

the difference is the size of the burner. The hotplate has a 6" burner--the stove has an 8" the hot plate will boil a 6" pot faster than the stove, but not an 8" or larger. Remember, the stove is also on 220 power and the hotplate is on 110

[@RazgrizAlphaONE]

I'd be interested to see the test re-done, but using cast iron. We know the new pot is 'compatible', but how GOOD is that compatibility? Is the base magnetic? Is it weakly magnetic? Cast iron, we know it's going to work really well and give the hotplate its best chance.

[@ruthprodan]

Best review on KZbin because he compares the speed of boiling water with an electric cooktop vs this induction cooktop. I was going to buy one because my electric cooktop takes forever to boil water but I can see that these portable cooktops aren’t powerful enough. Thanks for saving me from the aggravation of having to return it!

[@kenattagexp9871]

I hooked the 30amp breakers on the manual transfer switch (powered by AIMS 12 Inverter) to our kitchen "GE Profile" Cooktop. The center cook area (biggest one) the meters show aprox 11.5amps on each 115v leg = 11.5amp * 230v = 2645watts. The smaller runs at about 2000 watts - e.g same ballpark as 1800 watt induction cooktop. I mention this because you may not think you can run a regular cooktop and induction tops require special pans (I believe). You can hook your cooktop to smaller fuse such as the 20amp breakers on the transfer switch safely because its always OK to have smaller breakers than wiring - and then avoid running more than 2 burners at same time. If you forget, you will simple trip the 20amp breaker - no harm.

[@polianathes]

how many pounds this induction burner takes?

[@markblankenship745]

Not sure if you know this or not but there is a temperature setting as well. It may have been set to a lower temp.

[@kenattagexp9871]

And for what its worth, we bought an Oster 900w (low tech rheostat control with heat element) on Amazon that boils water and does top out at 900w.

[@bpurkapi]

Aluminum is not recommended for induction, you must use a magnetic pan or pot, such as steel. Easy way to tell if compatible with induction: does a magnet stick to the bottom of the pan or pot?

[@LithiumSolar]

The pot that I am using has a big thick base and says induction-ready.

[@PaulPaid]

@@LithiumSolar " induction-ready" is a gimmick meaning it will (eventually..😅) work with an induction stove. It doesn't meant it's optimized for it. Take Brendan's advice. This Unit boils water in 1 minute and 22 seconds, not 24 minutes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGHKlKhmotCNebs

[@blabbersoft]

I would have liked to see the pots switched to see if there was any difference in times to boil...just out of curiosity, but thanks for doing this and sharing your results!

[@LithiumSolar]

The Cuisinart pot did not support induction cooking. I thought it did and was disappointed to see an error code when I tried to use it. That's why I had to go out and buy the new pot. I suppose I can put the induction pot on the electric stove with the same amount of water in and see how it compares that way. I'll give that a test tonight.

[@polianathes]

@@LithiumSolar does it hold a 20 quart pot?

[@3radHill]

Hey I'm looking for one for home distilling. It says it has a 10hour timer. Is that true?

[@LithiumSolar]

Hi. The timer on mine goes up to 170 minutes, then it rolls back around to 0.

[@michaelmcguire8811]

There isn’t an induction cooktop with a grounded plug because they don’t need to be grounded. You just need to have the live and neutral to conduct AC current to create a magnetic field. Just need the neutral return path. No earth ground required.

[@HBPowerwall]

Thanks - KZbin, just showed me this almost a month later... *sigh*

[@LithiumSolar]

It's been working great. I got a ton of use out of it so far.

[@Cyberflow]

is this just me or is there a very very high pitched noise when the induction one is on? maybe interference, do these oscillate at audible frequencies?

[@LithiumSolar]

It does make a very high pitched noise. It bothered me at first, but after a few weeks of using, I've tuned it out. I did some quick research online and it seems to be normal for induction cookware from what I gather.

[@harrue]

No this shit is loud AF. It sounds like it is trying to move over 9000 cubic feet of air.

[@bobbelman6666]

Do you have a electric water heater? You could make a system that puts the excess solar energy during the day in the water heater.

[@LithiumSolar]

Yes. And yes :) I haven't gotten that far yet.

[@bobbelman6666]

@@LithiumSolar I've been thinking about the concept to implement at our house. With a microcontroller you could measure the current exported from the house. The microcontroller can control the heat output to the water heater with a pwm controlled mosfet to offset the excess. In order to use a mosfet you first have to rectify the 120/230VAC to DC, but it's doable.

[@Brandon-zo9ly]

There is a place in Colorado called Valley View that does this. They have (relatively cool hot springs. But they pipe water from the top of the mountain to power a turbine, and dump the excess in to one of their pools, It’s quite a few degrees hotter than the other pools.

[@jstaffordii]

most stove eyes are around 6kw so the induction plate is using 4x less energy

[@LithiumSolar]

It's on a 50A breaker so that's around 12kw. I can look at what the stove is actually rated for, but that's a combined total across all 4 burners, the heating area, and the oven. It's not dumping all that energy into one single burner.

[@kenattagexp9871]

My "GE Profile" Cooktop has max 39.6v at 240v = 9,504watts - but you rarely run all burners at the same time. A single 'regular' burner runs about 2,000watts @ 230v on (heat) / off (once it reaches heat level) - e.g. does not run continuously.

[@feelred]

Same problem with the induction stove that came with my unit. Nothing worst than wanting to cook when I get home and it takes 20+ mins to boil water to start.

[@LithiumSolar]

After using it for a year, I've gotten used to it and doesn't bother me anymore. I'm actually considering purchasing a second one now lol

[@tonybennett7969]

The problem will be the pan your using does not have enough ferrous content in the base. As that's how induction works by causing the ferrous molecules to vibrate rapidly causing heat.. With a good induction pan the water will boil much faster than an electric stove or kettle. A simple text to see if the pan is ok is a fridge magnet should stick to the base (all over) just like on your fridge. Pans with small discs of ferrous metal perform poorly due to there not being enough ferrous metal in the base.

[@harrue]

I got one and it sounds like it is trying to run Crysis or MS flight sim at 8k

[@slofty]

loooooooooool

[@01Alexsimps]

ETL and UL test for the exact same thing. UL happens to have a different division that writes the standards that they test to.

[@01Alexsimps]

If the appliance is considered "double insulated" (multiple layers of insulation protecting the user from shock more or less) then the ground is not required.

[@LithiumSolar]

Yeah I understand that ETL tests to UL standards, I just find it funny that UL won't sign off on certain types of appliances themselves. Thanks for the explanation of the grounding, didn't know this but makes sense :)

[@jstaffordii]

turbo boil on a 220 volt induction cook top is 3kw

[@LithiumSolar]

Damn! Based on that, I'm going to guess that these results aren't bad then. Lol

[@Chaseh1616]

Mine doesn’t take 24 min to boil lol odd

[@ScottysBackYardBBQ]

mine dont boil water very good also. little disappointed for the price i paid for it.

[@pabsts____3964]

UL will send you your own sticker book for a nice yearly payment and you can put it on everything you own. That sticker is another way to suck money out of smaller companies producing better products. Hell I’ll sell you a sticker for $25 and even initial it. That makes it legit.

[@LithiumSolar]

That's not the way UL testing is done...

[@pabsts____3964]

LithiumSolar there’s no such thing. Any time you want I can send you a video of our “UL Testing”, I see them once a year and most of the time it’s done over the phone now. My stickers come in the mail, after the fee is paid. Underwriters Laboratories is another money suck and in no way should be a validation of products, it’s a validation that you have the money to pay them. But you gotta have their sticker on your shit or it can’t be put up.

[@butcherknife59knife46]

LS your stove is 240v half of what your induction is not a good comparison. One is portable and the other is not. I'm not sure if camping I would ever boil a gallon unless i was sterilizing it to drink. Anyway Duxtops are the best! Around Bend Oregon out!

[@AustinMichael]

Most of these kitchen appliances aren't grounded because they don't need to be. My huge 5 liter deep fryer from Cuisinart isn't grounded either and it's 1800 watts.

[@LithiumSolar]

I guess it just looks odd to me considering you're putting large amounts of water on it.

[@AustinMichael]

@@LithiumSolar this is because these devices are double insulated which means both the wire itself and the body of the device are not conductive. These type of devices are not required to have a ground plug. Hand mixers and just about everything are double insulated for that exact reason so electric can't reach you even if there is a short circuit. Shit the only kitchen appliance I have that has a 3 prong plug is my kitchenaid professional mixer and my instant pot because the metal heating element is in direct contact with the metal pot which you can touch.

[@philip6419]

I believed induction boiled water faster, too? Now I've changed my mind on buying.

[@LithiumSolar]

There are really too many variables here to make a decision based on this test alone. The two big variables are different pots (even though they're the same size) and we don't know the power consumption of the electric burner. I will say though that, after having used this for over a year now, I absolutely love it. The only reason I haven't purchased a second is because of how my kitchen is wired.

[@djenson]

*sigh* You have an induction hob, using 1450 watts, and a cooker/stovetop, that likely has 240v and more current. It is clear which one will win with basic info like that. If he had an induction cooker that used the same amount of electricity as the stovetop, the induction would win as its more efficient. it's not just as simple as OMG THE OTHER ONE WIN THAT MEANS INDUCTION NOT AS GOOD.

[@AustinMichael]

what drew said

[@thatcrazywolf]

Everything is ETL now that UL is no longer a non profit

[@LithiumSolar]

My understanding is the testing is done to the same standards, correct?

[@thatcrazywolf]

@@LithiumSolar I'm not sure to be honest. It's basic testing to see if stuff catches on fire though.

[@dtperk9844]

Yes, ETL uses the same standards as UL. I operate a LED Lighting company (shameless self plug: www.CreativeLightings.com LOL) and we have a line of LED tubes that replace fluorescent lamps. Our line is UL listed to three different standards. I suspect that the reason you mostly see ETL certs is that ETL is about 1/10th the cost, and they usually get their testing done in a fraction of the time that UL does. The cost is a huge part of the lower cost appliances/electronics. If one could save thousands of $$$ in testing costs, it brings the cost of the appliance down to a reasonable level. PS- I also purchased a Duxtop induction unit about 3 months ago. I opted for the 8100 unit and also am enjoying using it very much!

[@CanadianTexaninLiguria]

You don't need 1800 watts to boil water, I boil my water at 700w. Or do anything else for that matter. Why do you need UL? Why do you need a 3 prong plug?

[@LithiumSolar]

Ok.

[@foadnajafi4620]

dude! put the lid on!

[@LithiumSolar]

I had a lid on off-camera lol

[@josephbohme7917]

I will guarantee to you your wire hgauge in 12 ga at most and a 15 amp breaker and the circuit does have draws on it from other items at the same time. 20 amp breaker 10 ga wire is ythe ebst in a kitchen. I ma screw the path back to yopr breaker panel is easily > 50'. Ours is and you just cannot ever get it to pull 1800 watts. And your hime ground is also likely >100 ohms of resistance, whereas the 20 ohm NECESSARY code is never found I have a $900 ground resistenace tester and many homes AND COMMERCIAL, have zip LOUSY grounding and No motor/ APPLIANCE WELDER will ever do a maX rpm or hp PERFORMANCE RATING. LIKE A CRUSTY OLD BATTERY POST 12V WILL NEVER BE SENDING ANY BIG VALUE THROUGH HEAVY RESISTANCE. SAME WITH AC.

[@mrflhx2009]

your compairing a electric stove 2100w burner to a 1800w induction burner of course the stove is quicker get some commen sense

[@LithiumSolar]

Is it common sense? Where do you see any kind of rating on that stove burner? Because it's my stove and I sure don't see one...