Can This Engine Cleaning Kit Get Rid Of All The Sludge On This Land Rover?!

[@jodycanfield6684]

BH kit at $339 is an expensive experiment. Too bad it didn't work but you saved me $339 👍

[@TheFuneralDirector]

That's the most honest BG engine flush video I've seen on KZbin ... thank you guys ... Kind Regards Andy

[@elcheapo5302]

BG Wallet Flush.

[@troycarothers8254]

Yep.

[@Missin44]

Actually, that's only partially true. It seems it does help some with oil consumption.

[@thetayz72]

lmao

[@bmwlane8834]

You're honest in your test!!!!!! Thanks! You built trust with me.

[@deezyperformance]

Definitely need to do a video on the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

[@everss02]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3qnp6tngdmkjK8

[@Raul-ll3yk]

Restore and protect works little by little. If you check the label, it says it cleans up to 100% by the 4th oil change. However, per “the oil guy Chanel” yes, it has some detergents and additives that should help with cleaning the engine. I would just add that doing an oil change more regularly and using high quality oil like Penzoil platinum ultra , helps to remove this contaminants but hey, all this for not even doing oil changes at 7-10k ? I run a fleet of 12 cars and 5k oil change is the norm and I have found success with it reducing oil consumption .

[@SouthMainAuto]

At the 8 min mark I had to pause and agree with Eric..... I am skeptical too. Now carry on gentlemen.

[@SouthMainAuto]

HAhah us Eric's need to stick together. We both knew it was wishful thinking. The BG guy is not gonna be happy with this video 😂

[@elcheapo5302]

There goes the neighborhood! 🤣

[@LatersOnTheMenjay.]

I found this channel because of the OG himself - Eric O - and now I get to enjoy two OGs plying their trade and putting the parts changers and snake-oil salesman to shame. Keep up the great work South Main and Royalty Auto.

[@KeithWheeler-ey1pw]

What about the crud sucked into the oil pickup screen??

[@litz13]

The crud buster will actually clean the screen too. The danger is choking up the filter and killing oil flow. Gotta be real careful.

[@mlieser1230]

I think the BG flush kit is intended for oil consumption due to stuck rings. The only way to even start to clean sludge deposits that thick is to scrape out as much as possible. Get a pail of diesel fuel and go at it with a brush. Do a dump and fill with new filter, run the engine up to temp, dump and fill again with a new filter. Run the vehicle for a week and change the oil again. It will buy you some time while shopping for a low mileage replacement engine.

[@H33t3Speaks]

Or not. As some weird collective tolerance is breached and the mechanical magical mumbo jumbo that held the jalopy together is exorcised.

[@GNX157]

If the valve cover was off already, I’d at least block the returns and manually wipe out as much sludge as possible first.

[@jameseverly8501]

welll dont have to woory about this why becuase i have 3 toyota and all 3 get an oil change around 1 thousand miles 1k

[@johneldorado]

@@GNX157 It would then be difficult to see how well the BG flush did, so it was a good way to test. But yes, absolutely wipe it out manually of you're trying to remove as much sludge as possible.

[@markm0000]

Just put a cup of diesel in the oil and drive it 30 mins at a time with 2 or 3 filter changes until it comes out clean. Check with a filter cutter.

[@buck12210]

i have never used a flush kit myself but i do drop a quart of transmission fluid in my engine oil a 100 miles before a oil change been doing that for 15 years now my ram 1500 5.7 still runs like its brand new.

[@charlesmiller8672]

Ive seen what ATF does intake passages and there's another yuotuber who does the same thing as you so if i ever run into this issue that's the first thig i will do

[@johanbeek]

break oil works better

[@PeteKiefer]

And by the way, the young man who is not a believer, he’s a good man to have on this task. Skeptics play a valuable role in this type of testing. Otherwise it would just be an informercial for B G products. Make them earn their praise…

[@nighttime9539]

Great review. Would be amazing if you could make a similar video on kerosene and diesel flush. Those seem to be popular ways of cleaning engine sludge, so would be interesting to see what it looks like under valve cover.

[@timothykeith1367]

Might as well use a heated pressure washer. Drop the oil pan and clean from the bottom.

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

Followed the manufacturers intervals to a Tee! Which is why I always say 5,000 miles, even sooner if you are in traffic often and idling at the kids soccer game with the AC on. I've tried this a couple dozen or so times and it seems to work 1 out of 3 or so. They usually end up back making noise within a month or two. Hope this one works out for the customers sake. These kits are one of the better ones believe it or not. Edit: Trans fluid works well.

[@jameseverly8501]

welll dont have to woory about this why becuase i have 3 toyota and all 3 get an oil change around 1 thousand miles 1k

[@dirkmcghee1604]

Watched right to the end, I was there for it, I love it, have confidence, no even need for self consciousness. Cheers!

[@Rathika5]

I would use Valvoline Restore and Protect and do a couple short oil filter changes and a low mileage OCI.

[@needhelp2453]

I agree. Restore and Protect would be a whole lot cheaper and seems to work very well.

[@johnspelman8976]

Maybe they could do a video on that, but I doubt it would be any different

[@toddzino58]

R&P won't do anything for sludge. Go over to BITOG forums. Several tests have been done there. It DOES, however, seem to clean pistons/rings, which is pretty cool.

[@johnnyblue4799]

@@johnspelman8976 It's been done: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oarci3edncyXeas

[@sprintcardriver8]

​@@johnspelman8976 It does work, works good enough it will clog the filter

[@saiedabushadi4012]

Thank you for the honesty, I really appreciate that and was excepted more better results.

[@tjhessmon4327]

First, this is Not Sludge, it oil coking. Second, We old mechanics used to treat engines like this with Kerosine or JP5, mixed with the oil, run for 20 to 30 min, until its mostly gone. .. That said, the process started with scraping away the coking (physically), then rinsing the top end with Kerosine or JP5, with the oil pan drain open. Most engines the were OHV, so we did the Valley as well. The procedure usually included removing and cleaning the Valve rockers, push rods and lifters and cleaning them individually, as well as changing the valve stem seals ( used compressed air to hold the valves closed). .. Once the components were cleaned, we reassembled the components, then ran 3 Kerosine mixes through the engine (at idle), until we observed clean oil. (Qt kerosine or JP5 to Remainder of fill oil). JP5 works best, but its more expensive. .... Because cheep petrol based oil in those days would easily coke, we performed this service regularly. This is not something mechanics observe today, as most vehicles are serviced with synthetic oil, which has a much higher coking and boron plate temperature. Also... check the EGR and PCV systems on this Land Rover.

[@Rob-fx2dw]

Kerosene is very effective cleaner mixed with cheap oil - 50/50 mix . It is worth try or alternatively some cheap auto transmission oils which also tend to clean rather well but mix in a fair proportion of oil with them- say 50 / 50. Run for half an hour then leave it then run again for the same time but don't drive it at all. Just engine runs at 2,000 rpm. Then drain it again.

[@SamslamminCars]

Solid comment and information!!! I came to say the same about physically cleaning as much sludge as possible.

[@jameseverly8501]

welll dont have to woory about this why becuase i have 3 toyota and all 3 get an oil change around 1 thousand miles 1k

[@Rob-fx2dw]

@@jameseverly8501 Toyota's are just so good across the entire range compared to most other makes. Servicing is the key to keeping cars going.

[@stans5270]

I came to agree with you. Back in 1978 we had a car come in that lost oil pressure while highway driving. The coking was so bad it blocked the rear oil passages in the head and prevented the oil from returning to the sump fast enough. I had to hammer on my gasket scraper to knock loose the coke from the heads and rockers and drill out the rear oil passage. We also used kerosine when we cleaned engines/parts. People using synthetic oils today have no idea of how bad things used to be.

[@thecarguide4303]

Ive done many of these BG Dynamic services with great results desludging motors. The only one I had mixed results on was a ford 5.4 3v, inside the timing cover was spotless however the oil ports to the heads are so small So it didn’t do a thorough job getting everything on the valvetrain, but I was really happy with the results inside the timing components. All other vehicles were VERY clean. In terms of restored ring function… absolutely a home run product

[@baja-automotive]

@12:30 I'm not surprise the oil sludge didn't come off the cams, the engine components that are lubricated from oil splashing don't get cleaned by the Dynamic Oil cleaner as well; the chain cover and engine bottom will look great.

[@michaeltichonuk2176]

In the last 4 to 6 months I replaced valve cover gaskets on both my 99 Express 5.7 149,700 miles and 02 Envoy ,just turned 250k. Valve train is spotless. Change oil every 3k in Express( hunting, fishing, camping rig) and 3k or once a year in Envoy as I live in city. If I don't I get those actuator codes. Change the fluids and filters. Dirt is the enemy of moving parts. I was taught that in 68 in shop class and practiced it for 40 years as a tech. Change your oil/fluids and change filters. Best PM .

[@tjhessmon4327]

The Land Rover pictured was obviously run on petroleum based oil, not synthetic. Coking is common with petroleum based oils, especially the cheeper brands. New engines run hotter than old engines (160f VS 195f), therefore, petroleum based oils will coke at the higher operating temps. Long Idling will contribute to the coking, as will short trips.

[@michaeltichonuk2176]

@tjhessmon4327 Roger that. Engines operate at higher temps and engineers installed more plastic on engine...makes ya wonder. 🤔

[@COBRO98]

@@tjhessmon4327 Engines have always ran between 195-220 degrees under normal operation. You make the mistake of thinking a thermostat dictates operating temp.. it doesn't.

[@pw601]

That sludge was well on the way to becoming tar. Needed a "manual evacuation" when rocker cover off. Saw this on a GF's car that was used for commuting a short distance, never got warmed up. The old Ford push rod engine had pounds of thick gunk in the rockers and springs. Took an age to clean it out with diesel,scrapers and stiff brushes. Advised her to do oil changes more often. Did she listen? Ha ha!

[@andyrantshumanphilosopher7571]

From the safety data sheets, the flush is parafin oil and octodecylamine, and the rinse is naptha and cyclohexane if anyone was wondering.

[@jmackinjersey1]

Valvoline Restore and Protect is what you are thinking about. I am on my second oil change with it in my 2010 Sierra 5.3 with just under 120k mi. I bought it used, from the 2nd owner. I don't know how the original owner changed the oil, but I do know it was on a ranch in West Texas, where it is dusty as all get out. The truck had been in a fender bender and was fixed, but the windshield and headlights were scratched the F up so bad I had to get a new windshield and buff out the headlights. The girl I bought it from only had it a few months and said she changed the oil once when she got it, but only drove it for about 1500 miles before she sold it to me. I have been changing the oil on the 3k mi mark since I bought it, and as soon as Valvoline came out with that R&P, I bought it and have been using it. I have noticed a smoother idle about 2500 miles into the first go 'round with it. I'll keep you informed after the third change is complete. Unfortunately I did not do a bore scope before I started, but I will do one on the next change and at the end of it.

[@mini2nut67]

Toyota recommends 10k oil changes on my new 2024 2.4T 4 banger Tacoma. I just had the dealership perform a “break in now complete” factory oil change at 1k miles. I plan on changing the oil and filter every 5k miles.

[@jorgesanchezcaracoza360]

Yes, do that!

[@BW-kv9wj]

5000 is too much. Do it Every 3000.

[@NomenClature-o8s]

@@BW-kv9wj500 mile oil changes are much better. Maybe 150 miles.

[@betorocha6125]

I can't believe toyota is still recommending 10k oil changes after all the issues that have been because of such recommendation.

[@dennisgardiner43]

The amount of sludge in the engine shown, is honestly incredible. The amount of sludge reminds me of the cars I worked on in the 1980s. Often (back then) it was Penzoil devotes. Because engine flushes (in the quart cans) only marginally helped, our shop used diesel. We'd add a quart to the engine, right before the oil change, and run the car on the lift for 30-40 minutes, while monitoring the oil pressure. As you stated, this method worked best one engines with that had stuck piston rings the best. It generally did not remove any built up sludge on components. Honestly, to get the crud off of the cam, crank or rods the chemicals would need to be very harsh, and I'd suspect that would cause bearing damage. So many car since the early 2000s have incredible oil service intervals. My wife's BMW is 12,500 miles. She did so when the car was new, but we've decreased that to no more than 5K miles now that the engine has 181K on it. Luckily she has no sludge in her engine, which I attribute to her long commute. She drives 45 miles to and from work, on a fast moving interstate. Virtually no stop and go. If the engine was a stop-n-go commuter, I'd expect the engine to be trash by now.

[@edrannou3914]

Around 1993, I had a 1989 Jeep with a 4.0. I used Valvoline and Purolator filters. I got it with 20K on it. I did oil changes religiously at 3K miles. When I pulled the valve cover due to leaking at 90K, I was shocked to see sludge up to the top of the rocker arms. Last time I used Valvoline. Still doing 3K changes, each time I added an aftermarket detergent additive. Got to 150K before I got rid of it. Still do not use Valvoline to this day. Mostly Mobil 1 full Synthetic at 4 to 5K. I do use Quaker State Full Synthetic on cars that I had oil seepage on with great results (2 cars, 2 successes).

[@FIVEVEEZEE]

Chemical sludge removal is best not rushed. Dislodging large debris could clog something. I had great luck removing sludge by just running Pennzoil/Quaker State synthetic oils in my 4Runner. I bought it with serious sludge, enough to clog the PCV valve and blow out the crank seal. Blue smoke on startup too. You could see dissolved sludge on the dipstick immediately with the mentioned products. The Valvoline R&P is likely great too, but back then I’d say Shell products had the best additive packages for sludge removal.

[@bobw53jrma]

That's the way to do it, slow and gentle. Change the oil when it gets dark.. I did it on my truck (that I horribly neglected).. 400 miles until the first oil change, then it went 600, then 800, then 1200, then 1400.. before the oil started getting dark enough for me to be uncomfortable.. Doing the change after 1400 miles, and I could look down into the valve cover and see shiny(ish) metal, stained of course, but I could actually see metal.

[@Brightviewpowdercoating]

I'm really grateful u all do this. It truly helps ppl out more than u know. U get ppl out here that are barely making end meet and can't afford to waste money. Cause yall know how they push stuff like this saying is a cure all. Someone walks in auto parts store looks at one of the bottles, and it's saying tune up in a can or guaranteed to work because the buyer can't afford to take their car to a mechanic. The kid at this auto parts store knows nothing about working on cars because the parts store has programs that do everything for them. I don't know how much that kit was, but I'd say with everything yall done had to be at least $200 plus. That's half a paycheck for some ppl. And it was basically a waste of money. And said company said it's guaranteed to work. Well, what they don't tell u is if it made it a half of a percent cleaner, then they classify that as working. So again, thank u for looking out for the working class ppl! To me, they definitely falsely advertise a lot of the quick fix chemicals such as this! Thank God above I grew up in the 70's and 80's where it was nothing for dad to say we're going to pull the C4 transmission out of ur mustang and put a kit in it, and the Oldsmobile Delta 88 drop the valve so we have to fix that as well! And if he'd never done it before, we had those big Chilton books that walked you step by step. So thank u, Dad, for doing the right thing and giving me life skills. Till I see u again Dad love and miss u ❤!!

[@nickrct]

My dads method of reviving sludgy engines: Synthetic oil changes at 1k and filter changes every 500 miles. He did this until the detergents in the oil did it job, sometimes up to 20 times. Low and slow, but you could tell when the engine was healed again. Lot of salvaged cars from Craiglist back in the day.

[@Sergio_el_mero_mero]

ATF in the crankcase. Run for one hour before the oil change that's done every 3K. No sludge ever.

[@jdesaavedra0432]

I had good results using BG EPR on older Toyotas. The 2003 Camry 2AZFE with 110,000 miles had heavy smoking on cold start for a very long time, maybe15 years. It never consumed excessive oil. The smoking has stopped completely for over a year. The 2006 Highlander 2AZFE was consuming approximately a quart in 5,000 miles at 185,000 miles. Excess black deposits were present in the drained oil. The consumption was reduced by half and the engine runs even smoother than new at 200,000 miles. I ran it through my 2017 Tacoma 2GRFKS at 80,000 miles with no change and little or no excess dirt in the drained oil. All these vehicles get 5,000 mile OCIs. The two older engines received valve cover gaskets and did not have sludge present on the valve train components.

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

Was the 2003 Camry smoking on cold start up a valve stem seal issue?

[@ox-cetane4887]

Happy New Year Sherwood and Eric, I am a subscriber to your channel and watched many of your videos and I think you guys are really good. I am a 70-year-old guy that has been in this business for many years, and I am no fan of all things BG. In my lifetime I have learned it is best to only call balls and strikes. The beauty of youtube is that it hopefully shows everything that needs to be seen. I have watched many videos of the BG dynamic engine clean service, and I have frankly been blown away with the results of that service. I had to watch your video 2 or 3 times because I was shocked that it did not work as well as the other demonstrations here on youtube. But after watching your video I may have spotted a mistake you guys may have missed when performing the BG dynamic engine clean service? Don't know for sure because I was not there. But being a chemist and understanding chemical reactions especially when heat cycles are required, It may be that the Rover engine was warmed up to operating temperature when you did the first oil drain of the original oil which would mean the engine may not have been as warm as required? Don't know for sure, but I am sure BG states in their instructions that the engine should be warmed up to operating temperature before the first oil drain. Just sayin'. I am not even a customer of BG products but from everything I have seen on BG dynamic engine clean and being a chemist this BG Dynamic engine cleaner in my 70-year-old opinion from what I have seen is a winner. In fact you folks are the first negative video I have ever seen on BG dynamic engine clean. Missing a heat cycle in a procedure when one is required can have some very negative consequences in a procedure? I am not criticizing you guys I really like your channel. Like I said I am just calling balls and strikes. Hope you folks have a Happy and prosperous New Year. I will keep watching.

[@bobdobalini]

Pretty much the results I expected. Appreciate the video, its always nice to see products tested.

[@crasher88]

its funny you mention doing this on a Kia. Ray over and Rainman Ray's Repairs did this very same procedure on a Kia with the horrible GDI engine that always starts burning oil. Still waiting on an update from him on that vehicle.

[@briangrant6222]

Had success with BG products on son's '09 accord. Car was fouling out spark plugs in cylinder 3 in about a week's time and burning significant oil, Honda tech told us the only real fix was to re-ring the rear bank as it was a known issue with these engines due to the VCM... at about a $4k cost... too much for a college kid to afford. Told us we could try to use BG products to delay the repair awhile. Used BG EPR on two oil changes about a month apart. Oil burning almost completely went away, no more fouling spark plugs, and that was 3 years ago... he's still driving the car.

[@Jason607]

I’ve used this on multiple sludged engines and it made the engine look almost new inside.

[@CalvinAytch]

Clearly didn't do shit here though

[@chrismoore6768]

Good video. You gotta test new methods out from time to time. It's really a roll of the dice, but sometimes you hit big and get a win. Keep up the good work guys.

[@FPSMurdock]

In the late 90s I knew of 3 guys who ran some sort or "engine cleaner" in their vehicles. All had to have engines replaced within a 6 month period. This scared me away from this type of thing ever since. That said great video! Throughly enjoyed it.

[@RayleighCriterion]

Don't you think these companies would already gone out of business if their products were harmful to engines?

[@Justntoys]

Lake Speed Jr @TheMotorOilGeek is who your thinking of for the used oil tests and video about the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

[@Troy_Built]

I was thinking Bob is the Oil Guy was who he was talking about. Lake Speed Jr. has a lot of good videos.

[@lamarw7757]

*you're.

[@stephanparis6887]

The Motor Oil Geek sounds a lot better than The Oil Homie or whatever he said LOL

[@michaelyoung7911]

What you should be running through that is Valvoline’s premium Blue Restore for diesels! That stuff will clean this out no problem!

[@1MiketheMechanic]

I have fixed over 40 vehicles with the BG EPR. The Dynamic kit I used once after the EPR did not fix a heavily sludged engine. From what I understand the Dynamic kit is equivalent to two cans of EPR in 30w oil. It did fix the problem. The problems I have fixed are mostly GM 5.3/6.0/6.2 oil pressure and oil burning. I fixed a 2000's Mazda Protege with severe oil burning. With the EPR I poor it into the existing oil and run it for 30 minutes no more than 1500 rpm. Let it sit for 2-4 hours then run it for another 30 minutes and immediately drain it. I wonder if that engine has an oiling problem to the top end?

[@voodoochild8697]

Just found your channel and subscibed. The root of the problem is the lack of maintenance and I would never use a engine flush. I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado Z71 single cab long box with the 5.7. Beautiful truck with 230,000 miles and not driven in the winter. I change the oil between 3000 and 3500 miles. You pull out the dipstick and the oil is clear Amber color. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and the valve train looked like new with no sludge. I'm the second owner. The original owner babied this truck. I got lucky. I also baby it. I run the same oil he did. Mobile 1 10/40. He gave me all maintenance records. This gentleman was very meticulous. I would never sell this truck. Bottom Line is change your oil. I've been working on cars for 45 years. I'm not a licensed but I know alot about cars. Self taught. Great channel 👍

[@robertf.hanleyjr.1635]

Oil and filters are much less expensive than an engine flush. I like to do oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles or so, like the previous poster, and have had no problems running vehicles well over 100,000 miles. I like to have my mechanic look at my vehicles several times a year, to prevent little problems from becoming big problems. Frequent oil changes are cheap insurance!

[@voodoochild8697]

Agreed and thank you

[@jeffreyd1156]

Great channel, love you guys. Try using the valvoline protect and restore for a few oil changes

[@JohnCunha-u8i]

Thanks for making this video! It's a reminder of how important it is, to CHANGE THE F'n OIL and FILTER! Preventative maintenance is everything.

[@jamsbong]

Recently I replaced my PCV on my Audi A5. With the PCV take out. I would see the valve train inside and it is perfectly clean. No sludge no stain. The metals are still silver in color. My car has done 100000 miles in less than 5 years! And I do 5000 miles oil change intervals. At this rate. I think the engine will last forever

[@mesmaayan]

I’ve used that BG on 4 different vehicles and it’s been excellent for me. However, that vehicle you have has some serious neglect and nothing but a serious scrubbing will get that off! BG eliminated oil consumption on 3 vehicles and 1 was for preventative measures. You MUST retest!

[@mattheviewer]

Thans for demo - sad to see it failed here (but good to know it helped a Civic's stuck rings). I wonder if the ATS kit (one oil treatmet, one gas treatment used together) would do any better?

[@Paul37Ontario]

Use AutoRX out of Florida. I have been using it for years and it works. Not a flush but a slow cleaner that is used for 2-3 thousand miles. Two of my last BMWs had peanut butter sludge on the valve train (bought at 80 thousand)(there's no baffle, so you can see the cam and springs just by looking into the oil fill cap opening) Any way it really works and its cheap as chips. I use it back to back (2 times in a row) for engines like in this vid. Removes 80% of what you see in this vid, if your wondering. After that I change oil every 3 thousand (myself), than your engine has a chance to get to 500+ thousand.

[@Laralyon]

Did this once with a Ford V6. It had about half an inch of drab/sludge in the oil pan. Always remove as much sludge by hand as possible, so remove the oilpan and use a brush and some diesel fuel to clean. Pull ghe pan and let it drip.Than run it with an engine flush/ sludge remover. Than run it with normal oil with half a liter of ATF added to it for at least 200 miles. Old school mechanics' trick. ATF has great detergents in it. Ended up with a clean engine. Still there's always the risk of a chunk dislodging and blocking a passage somewhere. It's a risk you must be willing to take. The engine will be toast anyhow if you leave it like this. Adapt your oil change intervals to your driving style/ conditions.

[@craigfin3222]

Best choice switch to a good oil like Redline, Amsoil or HPL. Use them to clean out the engine with short OCIs, to clean that much gunk out safely, its going to take time.

[@therandomtester9561]

I've had good results with cleaner, QMI, add 0.5 liter, run for 15 min, change oil as normal. -90's diesel, after cleaning I noticed it took much longer for the new oil to turn black. Did not remove rocker-cover to inspect. So my take on it now is that in your case the sludge is to hard and thick for cleaning to do much. I do believe in useing a cleaner as "maintenance" once and a while. New oil cleans, sure, that's why it turns black pretty quick. But it doesn't clean enough, or able to suspend enough sludge, and that's when it's able to build up such as in your example..

[@SrFulanoTal]

ive seen they do this type of cleaning with gasoil/diesel and it turned out pretty good

[@HomeredAlor]

Great video ! Don't be disapointed by the limited result : it's very informative for a viewer like me. It means that once you have sludge in you engine, cleaning it is a nightmare. You also have the risk of damaging the engine with the sludge debrits when they change places. So the best solution is avoiding this situation.

[@apb38]

I think everyone confuses what these and many other products do which is remove or loosen sludge from critical moving engine parts. I don't believe it is meant to really get to every surface of the engine. As you said with the Honda, it had an oil consumption issue most likely due to the rings, which is a critical moving part and the cleaner did its job and mostly cleared the issue. Other areas that are non-moving and are not really in the oil circulation stream will collect varnish/sludge over time, less with good maintenance, but do not really hinder the engines performance that much.

[@zxi750r]

Curious experiment idea.. number 1.. Do monthly oil changes (1000 mile) borescope inside drain hole and fill cap.. number 2.. same monthly oil change, but use a pre-drain flush additive.. An added bonus cut open the oil filter

[@ChrisLincolnHomes]

Watch JR GO did it on his Camaro and he had better results. I'd be very interested, as a case study, to see if the client and you guys use Valvoline Restore and Protect to see if that does anything in the next few thousand miles.

[@bme7491]

I had a '19 Range Rover Velar with the P250 (2.5L Turbo Infinium). An ex-Lexus service adviser friend told me the Infinium is a "ticking time bomb". So I recently sold it. Given JLR was #1 expensive car to fix according to Royalty, I'm glad I did.

[@michaeldiaz6308]

Nice!! Always wanted to see the components after these services. I’d like to think there’s a small difference but…I’m not completely impressed. I wish you guys had tried the 505 CRO from ATS for this. Maybe soon?

[@johnrpizzaguy]

I’ve used BG for probably 35 years, for the most part it’s one of the better products I’ve tried over 41 years. Do they still include the little plastic chip in the MOA. And yes I agree with you Sherwood,3000 RPM for 45 minutes (I would be a little nervous). Again another great video thanks again from Pismo Beach California.

[@bearing_aficionado]

Yes they still put the plastic chip in the MOA can.

[@johnrpizzaguy]

@@bearing_aficionado thanks for the reply. We would get spiffs for every chip and bottle cap. Have a great rest of your day.

[@bearing_aficionado]

@johnrpizzaguy you too, my man!🍻

[@craigiefconcert6493]

When you’ve got that much sludge there’s no magic bullet I guess. Anything strong enough to dissolve all that sludge would probably eat all the seals and damage the aluminum. The flush probably gets saturated by sludge and then can’t pick up any more. I would first scoop as much out with a plastic scoop or suction thing as possible. Or use a couple of cans of carburetor cleaner and spray it all out and spray down into the oil passages and take off the oil pan and do the same with the bottom end. Fill up the engine with diesel and turn it over by hand a bunch of times. Dump it out and fill it with cheap oil and turn it over by hand a bunch of times to try and get an oil film on the bearings. Dump it out. Then flush it.

[@scriptmike]

I have used transmission fluid method for years, and even tried it on a car with CVVT it works fine. Method 1 add one quart of trans fluid 100 miles before oil change, method 2 drain oil refill with 75% trans fluid 25%oil run engine for 20 minutes at idle, then drain change oil filter refill with correct oil. Note i match conventional to conventional, and synthetic to synthetic.

[@KeithWheeler-ey1pw]

What about sucking crud into the oil pickup screen??

[@dhc8guru]

I had a 2017 Audi Q7 that didn’t have a sludge issue but was burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles. The car had 117k miles on it. The BG cleaner did cut the oil burning in half and also got rid of a misfire and a low CAT efficiency issue.

[@ronb9901]

I’ve been using the ATS Chemical engine & fuel treatment products for years and car has been running tip top, currently about 135k miles.

[@1nsurgent]

Royal Purple has a cleaning additive in their oil which overtime cleans out/off any sludge or carbon buildup which I've noticed since I've been using it in my 2009 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor for the past year and a half.

[@MarianA-vu8tb]

Valvoline Restore & Protect is called, the oil that valvoline say that u need about 4 oil services to clean all the gunk in the engine and free up the piston rings from deposits so u could possibly correct excessive blow-by issues or oil consumption issues.

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

Try the valvoline retore and protect

[@BocaAtractivo82]

We all have our opinions. The owner of that vehicle probably been driving it like miss daisy all the time- probably in a ton of daily traffic. A good run on the highway/motorway for 5-10miles at least 2x a week (like an italian tune up), shouldn't let any engine have that much build up. Either save and spend some extra money on fuel consumption and fuel injector cleaners to negate sludge and carb deposits instead of cleaners or possibly shell out more money to fix a diarrhea oil filled engine like that. I am as always impressed watching vids from this channel that never ceases to amaze me.

[@chrisb9478]

Usually when the few times I buy a used vehicle, I use the LiquiMoly Engine Flush. I just follow their directions, it works very well too.

[@bearing_aficionado]

I've watched several videos about this stuff and everyone who used it swear by it. One video was done on a Camero and it cleaned it right up. It was sludged up pretty good, too.

[@jeffsullivan3101]

I was thinking of that video as well. It did a great job on that engine.

[@bearing_aficionado]

@@jeffsullivan3101 you talking about WatchJrGo?

[@stevennatzke5460]

I guess I am old school. Intervals 5K miles, 250 hours, 3 months. Which ever occur first. With all the Fleet vehicles never had an issue. If cleaning was a necessary procedure I used diesel fuel. Fill the engine to the top, let set for a few hours then drain. Add oil & run for 15 minutes, then drain. All good at that point. I will say none of our engines were as bad as this one illustrated. Proper maintenance is the key!!!

[@Easystreet208]

Appreciate the attempt! I have a 2017 2.0 Discovery as well! LOL

[@kenrice3154]

this why its SOOOOOOOOOOO important to change your oil either by a shop or yourself because this can happen me myself i do my own oil changes every 6k use supertech oil and my car good its no excuse to neglect cheap simple maintenance 💯💯

[@bendeleted9155]

I've had great luck with a pint of Diesel a day or two before oil change. ATF works too.

[@flashover8231]

I just watched another channel called Watchjrgo do an engine flush on a dodge dart with the same product and the sludge condition looked identical. The end results were 100% better you should take a look at the video just so you know. 👍✌️

[@SteveJohnson-wb3fl]

I would have liked you to try diesel fuel in the crankcase for a few minutes, maybe a couple of flushes for that engine. I've used diesel before on my car. Seems to work well with no inegative issues that I've observed.

[@mattjenkins2362]

Add 1 can of B-12 Chemtool before draining old oil. Run engine for 10 minutes drain oil leave drain plug out and let drain for 24 hours if there is heavy sludge or remove oil pan to clean out the sludge.

[@natecram6230]

It probably got the lower engine sparkly clean. You need something that you leave in there while you drive around for a while to clean the valvetrain in my experience. Gunk made one like that and I left it in a friend's sludgy engine for a week. It even cleaned the inside of the oil cap.

[@brianburkett7243]

Now try several oil changes (500 mile intervals) with Valvoline Restore and Protect and let us know the results. This is a perfect vehicle to test it on.

[@davidboyd7494]

Lexus dealer wants 10,000 mile oil change. I’m changing mine at 5,000. Oil is comparatively cheap.

[@wojtek-33]

I'm changing out my 4runner "lifetime" ATF tomorrow. Toyota/Lexus is crazy. I'm sure under perfect conditions 10k oil change are okay, but almost no one is operating their vehicle under ideal conditions.

[@COBRO98]

Do not go over 5,000 on your gasoline engine oil, I don't care what any KZbin channel or manufacturer tells you. If you do more city driving than highway, change it even sooner.

[@EvzenKovar-i5p]

We’re gonna form a little group of blacklisted motorists. 😂 With my driving habits I don’t think I’m going to go over 4K from now on.

[@miriamvivo4279]

I go 5000 miles oil change o-20 synthetic on my 2011 lexus is250 awd and the same on daughters 2015 lexus gs350 f sport awd. 3000 on my 2006 subaru sti pita car

[@guyletourneau6167]

I’ve been back to 3k mile oil changes for a couple of years now. I changed over to Walmart synthetic to compensate for the increased cost

[@marinerbc1]

Motul engine flush would have been my choice , or even Lqui moly engine flush .

[@jims2286]

I have over the years cleaned out many engines without damage that you could hardly see the rockerarms before than after many oil changes. A quart of automatic transmission fluid with every oil change.than change the oil as soon as it starts to turn brown and over a year time.

[@shanemunden7746]

We used to see a lot of sludge issues on BMW and the only method that worked to get it clean was 3k interval and replace half a liter with ATF for the next 15k miles

[@smokinwithskruggs]

Never had any luck with sludge cleaners except for way back in the 70s my mentor would mix kerosene with the oil and run it in the engine, drain and fill it with fresh and it actually did a decent job. Don't know ow if I would try that in today's engines though

[@hondadna93]

Cams are splash lubricated, BG wont clean it but all that sludge will be greatly softened up! Just wipe some of it with a finger and youll see how soft it is now. Parts cleaner brush will wipe it all off quickly. Ive saved a few engines this way. What I do is split the cleaner 50/50 with ATF (pour 3qt cleaner into 3qt ATF, end up with 2 6qt jugs) do step 1 cleaner, drain oil, leave drain plug out, remove valve cover, use parts cleaner brush to scrub cylinder head parts, wash everything down with brake wash, put valve cover back on and do step 1 over again. This will dissolve everything left. Then do the rinse oil. When all done itll look brand new again

[@tylerwilliams3868]

good job keeping it real! like to see more studies on using the BG product on oil consumption issues

[@jasoneyes01]

I started flushing my engine with a quart of diesel at oil changes on my N62TU motor at 150000 miles. My oil changes were black as ink for the next several oil changes. Oil consumption dropped from 1 quart every thousand to 1 between 7000 mile oil changes. The top end power is like brand new and my oil changes are only slightly brown now. My valve guide seals are original also. I currently have 195000 miles now. The intake no longer has oil residue from blowby and the engine barely makes any noise at idle.

[@arsinoeivlostprincess4228]

Interesting to see how Valvoline Restore and protect works in a similar situation.

[@hawkman8835]

I’ve done this service on engines that were worse than that and they came out looking brand new with only some small deposits left in the corners of the head. I’m surprised it didn’t do a better job.

[@babaganoosh555]

Interesting... we've used that BG kit a few times and it's worked a lot better for us, in some cases it cleans up all the varnish. The ones that still had a large amount of deposits like in this example, it was a lot softer than before, and at the next oil change it was cleaner again

[@TnShooter-is4gr]

When I seen how much sludge was there. I pretty much knew what the outcome would be. BG can help on smaller build ups. But once it cakes and crusts, I haven't found anything that works. Thank you for the honest review. We need more of these type reviews. Unbiased and let the viewer (us) decide for ourselves.

[@dondennis7884]

If you put a quart of Dexron 3 in the oil and run it over Time it will dissolve any sludge…

[@martinespinosa]

I’m not a mechanic but Seafoam worked great for me on an old Suburban that was consuming oil, it was a V8 and the pilot consumption stopped completely. Very cheap

[@alexanderzubar9593]

It would be interesting to see what it did in the crankcase. There is a LOT more oil splash going on there.

[@whocares4464]

Bg definitely makes some of the most sold products around but you will pay for the quality

[@justinmize4316]

Should try putting sea foam in the oil. See what that does. It is a pretty effective cleaner.

[@windycityben4850]

I agree with the 2 Eric’s.

[@MHolt-q1q]

Frequent oil changes work much better that prolonged oil changes .

[@diesel09]

Now try the Valvoline restore and protect on that same vehicle. Do the first oil change and then when it comes in, take it off check results and do that three times. I believe that vehicle would be a perfect candidate.

[@philjerome9795]

What was the condition of the sludge? Was it hardened and baked on? Thanks for the video, the information is important.

[@Weareeverything2023]

Have used BG products very successfully a lot in the past, but when you get that much sludge you need to physically remove as much as possible, including in the sump. Too many people expect miracle cures, when correct maintenance is what is required. BG like other products can help, but some situations are beyond help.

[@JF-jm3nb]

Watch JR Go did a Chevy Camaro and a Dodge Dart with BG with good results and ford boss me also. Depends of the severity of sludge probably. Ecoboost engines are very tough on oil never exceed 3000 miles oci with full synthetic oil. They are notorious for carbon build up and sludge. Royal Purple and Valvoline restore and protect are the two best to help cleaning the engine. Thanks for sharing.

[@Wes-py7nx]

Valvoline restore and protect is all you need, 3-4 oil change intervals and there will be a difference.

[@jay7264]

that engine looks like a ford focus engine. interesting