Can You Install Your Own Mini Split? Here's All The Things Nobody Tells You!

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This video is for educational purposes. Any and all HVAC repair work is done at your own risk. Any person attempting to deal with any type of refrigerant MUST have their EPA 608 certificate. The DIY HVAC Guy channel is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of the provided information.
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[@bransonlariscy4660]

Awsome videos. I have installed 3 different AC's myself now over the past 12 months thanks to your videos. Very much appreciated. keep up the good work!

[@ChrisWilliams-pu8pj]

This was a great video and guided me in my install. Really appreciate the detail you showed. One thing I would stress is purchasing quality tools. I purchased an Amazon core removal tool and fought getting the system sealed for a couple of days until I figured out the Amazon core tool was not sealing the vacuum. Watched video again and noted Appion brand that you used, purchased that, and all went well. I will be forwarding funds to you THANKING YOU for the great content!

[@johnathanmckinney5760]

I appreciate what you doing brother you are very knowledgeable and I will follow you. I’m thinking of starting my own business.

[@theelectricianguy]

Hey Dave great video, ran acros your channel several weeks ago and love the content. I am currently a industrial electrician working on getting my master’s license, I eventually won’t to get into HVAC trade as well and get my EPA license and HVAC license. I’ve already learned a lot form you channel and will continue to watch you videos.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks man! Glad the videos are helping you out 👊🏼

[@brianklange]

😂 Where was this video a week ago when I noob stumbled through the exact same install on a Turbro 18k! It was good to see I did MOST of it correctly! Thanks for the vid!

[@jameschupp2230]

I am doing a couple of them right now. I had the wrong fitting connecting to my vacuum pump. I hope to finish tomorrow. Do you know about what the air temp is inside coming out of your unit? Just curious.

[@brianklange]

@@jameschupp2230 pulled a 35.2 f on an infrared thermometer with an outdoor temp of 85 about an hour after I installed it. Haha! Ask me again in a year from now and if I get the same result I’ll be happy with my install!

[@jameschupp2230]

@@brianklange Wow! That is music to my ears! Thank you. So many of these mini splits only cool down to the 50's. I think you probably did a great job if you have a infrared thermometer! Not everybody has one. Thanks again! We are still dealing with 100 degree temps down here in Texas!

[@brianklange]

@@jameschupp2230 there’s so many good enough cheap tools to get online and an infrared thermometer for $10 is a great start. I certainly wouldn’t launch a rocket with it but it’s good enough for cooking steaks on cast iron. Hope you stay cool in TX! I’d definitely consider an eg4 direct solar mini split in your neck of the woods but here in WV it’s a possible option. It’s not a cannonball dive slam dunk for going solar but a good dip into the pool to consider for a DIYer.

[@bryanditol4562]

Dave. I always enjoy watching your videos and learning a lot knowledge from you. God Bless!

[@russellmartin2705]

Great video showing how easy the install can be. I would seal the pass through so outside air doesn't come through the wall. When opening valves do the liquid line first watching vacuum guage to slightly positive pressure than close and install schrader. Remove vacuun guage before opening suction line so you dont contaminate your guage with oil. Maybe that is why your other guage is acting up?

[@nicbuse6019]

I want to thank you for all the information you are providing. I got most essential tools that you are recommending, and I took the SkillCat training and EPA 608 Universal exam. Now I can legally service my own and potentially others air conditioners. Thank you.!

[@CharlesAnsman]

No you can't legally work on other peoples units.

[@pauledwards3325]

Darn@@CharlesAnsman

[@4431charlie]

can't legally ??? what will biden send his fbi goons to stop you @@CharlesAnsman

[@clintprice2123]

Nice thorough explanation and demonstration, it was enjoyable to watch!

[@Mr51Caveman]

I've watched more install videos than I can count. About 5 years ago I put in a 24K Btu mini split into my sun room. Pretty straightforward. Works great. About a week ago I put in a 12K into a Conex cargo container that has a 23 ft insulated and sheet-rocked area that's about 23 ft long. So under 180 sq ft. It worked surprisingly well for less than 3 days! I checked all electrical connections and leak checked it. No apparent leaks. I put a Clamp meter on and turned it on. It started out pulling 16.6 amps but dropped to 8 then .85 amps within 45 minutes. Placard states 12.7 amps minimum and 25.0 top limit. I'm guessing something is wrong with the compressor. I don't have any codes though and the AC seems to be operating all except no cold air. Manufacturer is kinda jerking me around. Been back and forth emailing for over a week now. Thinking maybe I should just jerk this thing out and return it.

[@ericmusgrove2828]

Great content, I found your channel researching a mini split for my 24x24 attached garage. As you know there are so many brands and the reviews are all over the place. It seems like you have installed most of the ones I see, is there one 220V you would recommend over the others based on what you know up to this point? I do have some expericance and also have a vac pump and gauges already. Thanks for making all these AC videos!

[@othoapproto9603]

You're a good teacher, editor and cameraman, thanks

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks so much

[@garfunkelcatandtheparliame72]

Minisplit we had installed in an old lab I worked in had its roller fan covered in fruiting bodies of fungus, craziest thing I had ever seen.

[@zachosborne6577]

Glad you do this. Has helped me with extra jobs a few times. Homeowner puts it in. I come by to fix his mistakes.

[@lightningdemolition1964]

How does this work out financially? Does the homeowner save enough by doing the install that they save money overall even after paying for the later repairs?

[@jameschupp2230]

I am installing a couple of Turbro currently. I like to cut the flares off on the connection at the head and swage the copper pipe and use a special solder and flux. I did notice your com wires were different colors than my 12,000 btu 230. I don't know what that is about. I like your videos. You do a great job being thorough.

[@diyhvacguy]

I believe that would void the warranty but if it works then go for it! Stay brite 8?

[@jameschupp2230]

@@diyhvacguy Yes, Stay Brite 8. But I am only doing the joint of the lines. I installed a mini split with 3 inside Heads 6 Years ago, and last year in the heat of August 100's, I had an AC Tech, come out and Evac the system, and reinstall the freon, and all the freon was still there. The Reason I Dislike Flare Fittings: I had a Mobile Home in the 1980's and I had a lot of leaks as a result of the Flare Fittings... So I never want to have Flare Fittings if I can avoid it. Yes the Flares on AC are different with a little different angle I think, But I just had too many bad experiences! :)

[@anthonyheak3479]

Great step by step explanation, thank you!

[@mikemeuse1029]

For the reverse connections, I recommend the bracket buddy.

[@AFlyingCookieLOL]

We have 5 minisplits - The cost of installing minisplits here cost 5-8K Canadian each - saved enough to buy a car or 2! We make our holes slightly larger to help with mounting and for the drainage pipe to comfortably fit on the bottom and drain properly because we are not professional and hate the mounting part of the minisplit especially with heavier 24,000 BTU Units. Of course we insulate is and fill up the gaps after. Perhaps you can talk about convoluted copper pipes which some units have in a video? HVAC Talk bars information about it on one of the threads. It would be nice to have someone with experience talk about it since there is not much information online about it. We have 7/8" convoluted pipe for our larger 24k btu unit. That thing is thick! Would you ever do one of those new Mr. Cool in Ceiling cassettes? (between joists)

[@kennylavay8492]

Good educational video, keep em coming.

[@bignicnrg3856]

You're the best cuz. Making everything look easy as usual 👍🙏

[@TheBaba30720]

hi awesome video as always i got a quICK question is it required to remove the freon if you cut short the line in any mini split installation?

[@user-ln7of9gs4s]

12x30x1 air filter, merv 5 is the most breathable I could find, but I feel the standard filters don’t cut it. I like to set one of these on top of the unit.

[@JohnDoe-pe6iu]

Very helpful video. One question I have is can I connect 3 mini-heads to a one-zone unit. I understand if this was possible all 3 heads would run at the same temperature. Thanks.

[@bertpainter8385]

Question. I did my install 3 years ago. 1st timer. Unfortunately, not knowing I left the Schrader core in the refrigerant valve on my mini split install. Then after the vacuum, thinking I needed to put back the Schrader core I tried to put another one in the refrigerant valve on top of the existing one. Still not realizing what I did, obviously the 2nd core wouldn't go in, but I couldn't get the 2nd one back out either. So instead I just shut the ball valve on the Schrader core removal tool and left it on. Everything worked fine and is still working fine. Although I have no idea if I've lost any refrigerant over the last 3 years. Today after watching enough videos and realizing what I did. I attempted to remove the Schrader core, but still couldn't get it out. I then tried to slowly remove the whole removal core tool instead hoping there was no pressure from the 2nd Schrader core pushing in on the original Schrader core. But my hope was not working as the 2nd Schrader core must be pushing on the original valve stem and the refrigerant began leaking out. I waited a few seconds and tightened the Schrader core removal tool back up and closed the ball valve again and left in on. Any idea if that will hold indefinitely. Realize these things take time before destroying the compressor even though it is working. But I don't see the slightest amount of oil leaking out as of yet. Assuming that would be a sign that I have a leak there.

[@belavet]

Is there a reason why the gauge you show at ~28:00 is different from the one we see at ~31:00? I am assuming maybe batteries died or something, but you didn't mention, so figured I'd confirm. Been wanting to actually replaced our central air with a system that can handle each room to the temp we want it. Also, completely different question, but are there any multi room units that will connect with something like a nest to be able to control everything from one place/app?

[@carlosberrioselectrician777]

Another excellent video 📸👏💯 many blessings🙏 Keep up 🤓✌️

[@user-ud1sv6li7s]

Hi. When you cut off the first excess copper tubing for the inside unit at about 10:30, did the nut/bolt/connector come off the part that you cut off so that you then put it back on the copper before making the flare? Or do I need to buy another bolt/connector and if so, what is it called? Thank you for your presentation. Do you have a video showing a manifold guage hooked up to the vacuum pump? I have been trying to configure my electrical. I have a box outside that goes to an inside breaker, a 50, and in the box is a double 30 and a double 20. I’m not so sure the 115v unit using 14AWG and one 20A breaker is all that safe. Is it. Seems alittle easier having the 20A near where I’m putting the outside unit. What do you think?

[@Perly53]

Living where there are hurricanes (FL) the outside unit would need to be probably on a heavy concrete slab and bolted securely. How well do these hold up in sustained high winds?

[@user-ep8un2ky5c]

Very informative videos, you have taught me a lot. Question - how important is a torque wrench since the vacuum test checks for leaky connections anyway?

[@diyhvacguy]

One could get away with no torque wrench if they have a good feel for tightness of automotive bolts and such. 👍🏼

[@billharris6886]

Hi Dave, thanks for doing the video, which should be very helpful to DIY'ers. I don't mean to be critical but, I did spot some errors. I only have one mini-split installation under my belt so, not an expert by any means. I have been doing car AC work, with some home AC work since 1970, although not professionally. I bought 2 Cooper & Hunter units 3 years ago that run off of 115 Vac, so I could run them off of nearly any backup power source. I am sorry to say, that I'm just now getting around to installing them. I'm in my latter 60's so, the install was physically a lot more demanding than when I was younger. Anyway, enough introduction... I did lots of research to avoid the pitfalls that plague of those that highlight how easy the installation is (although primarily experienced by DIY'ers). The most critical failure is with the refrigerant line set flare; it has to be (basically) perfect. Most of those experiencing refrigerant leaks used the low cost flaring tools made for automotive brake lines. An eccentric type flaring tool must be used, as it produces a much higher quality flare. I went a step further than Dave with the flaring tool and used a tool that sets the length of tubing protrusion within the tubing clamp, as to avoid another failure opportunity. This is more important for DIY'ers, since we don't flare copper tubing that often, a flare that must be done perfectly to insure a good seal. You need to use that Nylog Blue on the flaring tool cone to achieve a smother flare surface. Then also, while connecting the flared tubing to the unit, the Nylog Blue must be used on the front and back surface of the flare taper, as well as the connector threads. This accomplishes 2 goals; (1) It allows better enables the copper line to be smoothly crimped into the connector and (2) Provides a measure of lubrication to the connector threads to enable accurate torquing. All torque figures assume some type of lubrication on the threads. Dry torquing is not accurate because, it causes galling/binding of the threads. The refrigerant lines from the evaporator must exit the unit as soon as possible to feed through the wall to avoid condensate leaks and mold problems. Running this bundle through the backside of the evaporator (as shown in the video) will allow condensate water sit in the drain pipe (hose) when the unit is off; a source of mildew/mold. The refrigerant pipes, drain pipe, and control cable must be bundled with the drain pipe in the bottom of the bundle. The whole bundle should exit at about a 100 degree downward tilt to promote drainage. The power/signal wire hookup in both the evaporator and condenser, have a plastic cable clamp in the area where electrical connections are made. This clamp acts as a strain relief for each cable. This clamp is supposed to clamp the wire jacket, not the individual wires. After the installation was completed, I did some testing of the unit, and was surprised how inefficient these mini-splits are when outside air temperatures are hot. The unit I bought is rated at 25 SEER, which equites to 21.9 EER. This cooling efficiency test standard is run with an outside temp at 95 degrees Fahenheit and indoor temp at 80. Actual measured efficiency was only an EER of 12. At 100 degrees, this plummeted to an EER of 7.3! I was not able to get the advertised efficiency until the outside temperatures reached the lower 80's. (Yes, and I did triple check everything).

[@william18miller]

you absolutely do not torque with lubricated threads.. he did have an eccentric flaring tool. I do believe he was incorrect to flare flush to the end of the tool and that it should have protruded about 1/16 to 1/8"

[@bnasty267]

SEER/EER and even HSPF are really only useful as comparisons between units, because the test parameters (though not real-world) are standardized. As someone in an area that needs more heat than AC, I always look at the rated output at various temps using the realistic standards set by AHRI. Those numbers are much harder to cheat, and they give a good idea of what size unit you may need for the colder days. COP is also useful here for efficiency, as it directly reflects how much heat you get per kW (and thus $.) The best thing you can do to maximize efficiency is to not over/undersize the unit. Generally speaking, for minis that can modulate output, around 60-70% is the sweet spot for efficiency. You actually want the unit to struggle on those really hot days, because that means it's not oversized for the majority of the days. This is a bit more tolerable for AC, whereas for heat, I'd rather give up some efficiency to ensure the unit is large enough not to let temps drop too low when it's really cold.

[@billharris6886]

@@william18miller Thanks for your response. On the torquing, I am repeating standard mechanical engineering practices. Some type of lubrication must be on the threads while torquing, otherwise an accurate torque setting cannot be accomplished. There may be dry torque values out there but, these cause proven inaccuracies.

[@billharris6886]

@@bnasty267 Thanks for your input. I am familiar with the other measurement standards you mentioned, I just used EER as it is the simplest, most straight forward measurement comparison. With my installation, my goal was not optimum sizing of the unit, but instead, backup heating/cooling based upon running the units off of some type of backup power (battery, solar, or generator). The whole system is based on the compromise idea of: Some cooling/heating is better than none at all when power is out for several days. I live in a forest area in north central Florida and therefore, last priority to get power restored when a hurricane comes through and takes down large parts of the state. Also, I have been hearing increasing rumors for the last 3 years that the US power grid will be taken down at some point so, wanted to reduce vulnerabilities a bit if this comes true.

[@mikaelahyakuya3485]

I don't think that you can really convert SEER to EER on the variable speed system (somewhat doable for single speed system) In general, variable speed mini split are more efficient at their half load BTU. So, if you want it to be more efficient, you have to make it runs at lower capacity. Although some high-end mini split are still somewhat efficient at their almost-full load capacity, you just have to look for their EER rating. Just for the example, you can take a look for Daikin Atmosphera R32. On 9k, it has 27.3 SEER2 and 16.3 EER2 rating which is very good.

[@joegeorge3367]

do u think u can show us a version where the inside unit is recessed up into the ceiling - my wife isn't liking the wall mounted inside unit and supposedly there is one that fits between ceiling joists and only sticks out 1-2" into the room.

[@mikaelahyakuya3485]

Very nice installation, better than the tech I hired. But why not a better unit from Mitsubishi or Daikin or Fujitsu?

[@yvonnebennett4489]

I noticed that you have used different brands of units. Which one is your favorite? I’m looking for a unit for approx 550-600 square feet with sub zero temps (-13F) in the winter.

[@Bass.Player]

I coiled my lines horizontally behind the condenser which sits about 30" from the wall. I was concerned about compressor oil collecting in the bottom of the coil loops. I'm certain that is does, not certain that it is an issue?

[@randycarreiro8363]

Question , why did yiu have to cut and reflare in the head unit? Because yiur bends were off?

[@ericmusgrove2828]

great video, I am getting ready to order one for my 24x24 garage, of all your installs is this the brand you would use for such a space? It is insulated and I would do the 220V unit

[@diyhvacguy]

I’d say cooper and Hunter was the one I have liked the most so far. Send me an email at [e-mail] and I can help you find the best fit. Cheers

[@teseract]

I recently had a flare fail catastrophically on a mini split install I did and lose it's full charge in a rather dramatic way. I'm going to recharge it, but do I need to worry about replacing any lost POE oil in the system? When I say "dramatic" I mean full on high pressure full to empty in a few seconds. I capped it immediately after the failure to prevent contamination of course.

[@kangaroorun5116]

Which one Is the best brand? A lot of times many friends of mine say it's Mr Cool. How about you, what do yo recommend?

[@BibleExposition2022]

After deburring, plumbers & AC tech need to use a handheld vacuum to suck the dust/debris from the cut which is very doable. I know the dust/debris still inside the pipe after deburring.

[@diyhvacguy]

Yea you should always do this with it pointed down.

[@bnasty267]

You do risk sucking in whatever crap on the other open end, though. This would also require you do both flares before connecting either of them, which requires running back and forth. Easier probably to use one of those knife flaring tools where the burr being shaved off tends to be a single, larger piece.

[@BibleExposition2022]

@@bnasty267 Handheld vacuum is not that strong, a quick touch should able to clean the debris w/o sucking what’s on the other end. 😅

[@bnasty267]

@@BibleExposition2022 If you're walking back and forth, better would be to hit it with a blowgun on your nitrogen tank from the opposite end.

[@fernandobazan829]

I got a question so I know the mini split comes with the white insulation but i have seen you use a different white type on other systems besides the black k flex so what brand name is that pipe insulation? please

[@marvinlooneytunes4777]

hello thanks for sharing your knowledge. Wouldn't be easier to solder(stay brite 8) the inside connections instead of flaring etc etc. Would you suggest that. Thank you

[@eroom2087]

I see he never answered

[@karagmaganaka]

Why did you switch from the Fieldpiece MG44 to the CPS VG200? Aren't they both vacrometers?

[@amperetimemarketing7931]

great video~ love it~~~

[@sluggdiddyyddidgguls]

Do you think its worth it to replace my portable ac with a minisplit? A room where I do music recording upstairs is consistently either 10-15 degrees hotter or colder then the rest of the house. In the winter it doesn't matter as much because my gear/computer tends to warm things up enough, if anything its still can get to 78 degrees in the room in the winter so I often have to run the portable ac. Would a minisplit be more energy efficient? I am sure it will be quieter, the portable ac is LOUD.

[@davidgtr]

Thank you!

[@keith2498]

Never have liked heat pumps. Liked the install video. Makes me want to do my own on a couple of rooms.

[@user-ln7of9gs4s]

Heat pumps have changed.

[@jimw7ry]

13:00 you should really put some Nyloc Blue on the pipe BEFORE you flair the tubing. Too keep the pipe from galling while you flair it!

[@Jpgiggity]

Hey if you have no idea I understand im in Australia and I keep getting cockroaches in my aircon and my room is tidy and there isn't anything that should be attracting them yet I keep getting them do you have any suggestions

[@bransonlariscy4660]

What brands do you recommend for the best value for a mini-split? Do you always go with the Turbro brand?

[@AnnLippert1]

DIY kits are so much easier. worth the extra couple hundred bucks.

[@forrestwinslow2288]

Why can't you be my neighbor? Awesome video and you are a great neighbor!

[@search_eternal]

Nice job. Did you have problems with the Fieldpiece micron gauge?

[@diyhvacguy]

Yes, I’ve had problems with it from day one… might have gotten a defective one

[@kevin9c1]

I just installed a Mr Cool 4th gen DIY and the electrical cover is 2 piece like this one.

[@aihf3063]

Where do you find the female to female 1/4 adaptors

[@rfvsales5225]

Great video's .. What is the most popular brand you are recommending today ? Looking for 18,000 or 24,000 have about 600 Sq Foot low ceiling great room I want to add one to .. thanks

[@diyhvacguy]

amzn.to/3ElhAs2 This is my recommendation. Easy install and a great product 👍🏼

[@michaelsmith5463]

QUESTION: Do you think you could run an AC off of a battery system for like 8hrs?--Sailboats have a "soft start" capacitor that helps with the amp draw everytime the compressor turns on.

[@diyhvacguy]

Oh sure! Batteries are expensive that’s the problem. Many people have a large enough solar array and batterys to be completely off grid.

[@nwsvndr]

Power (240V) to the indoor unit is evidently supplied by the communication wire, is that right? Doesn't this need to go through a conduit or shield of some kind when outrside of a wall?

[@jimw7ry]

No. The communication wire also supplies the indoor unit with power. The cable is listed for this purpose. No conduit required as long as the wire is protected with a line cover set.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Total cost Fieldpiece MG44 Vacuum Gauge - $231.20 CPS VG Vacuum Gauge - $166.09 NAVAC NP4DLM BreakFree® Cordless Vacuum Pump $779.00 PVC Line Cover Kit $49.99 Basic Electrical Install Kit $185.00 Includes power line whip, electrical disconnect So, an additional $1411.28 over and above the cost of the mini-split, $679.00 110v or $709.00 230v, not counting hand tools.

[@diyhvacguy]

$2100 total. Considering most company’s charge 4-5k for a mini split install. That’s a great savings.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

@@diyhvacguy 👍👍👍

[@benkanobe7500]

Will your flaring tool work on automotive brake lines or is it just for soft copper?

[@diyhvacguy]

Just soft copper. Automotive requires a double flare

[@rastagrastag7784]

I would've made my connections on the outside of the building. And install the line set inside of a covering.

[@diyhvacguy]

I thought it was easier this way. But it can be done either way

[@user-ln7of9gs4s]

One tip I was told, was to slightly have the indoor mounting bracket leaning slightly to where the drain goes to better help with draining, rather then having it completely level. Do you do this?

[@diyhvacguy]

I’ve never done this. That would bug the crap out of me seeing it not even with the ceiling lol

[@user-ln7of9gs4s]

@@diyhvacguy that’s the thing, you can’t tell. With your level on there, it’s just so slightly to where the drain goes. Nothing major.

[@Honestandtruth]

What is the difference between Mini split and Central A/C system....❓❓ Which System is better ❓

[@jessevasquez8323]

Why did you switch from fieldpiece to CPS.

[@jonathansanchez5866]

I installed a mrcool universal heat pump last week and have had the lines freezing over when I run the AC. I checked for leaks at the connections and didn’t find anything. Do you have any recommendations on how to troubleshoot any issue like this? Have you experience this with Mrcool heat pumps by chance?

[@keith2498]

I am not an AC installer but let me see if I can give some ideas on experiences I have had with awful installers. First off. Never use an Installer who uses a crew of illegals. Then you get stuck with arguing with non English Speaking installers who just walk away and the owner with the license never shows up. Then you have to explain that to them and they don't believe you and then a week later come out and see the mistake and try to fix it and fail and have to buy another unit. Tool 3 installs in a row for me to finally resolve all the issues and walk away from that company. Awful. 1. Not sure if you have a 2 story home or not. My first issue with installer was on 2 story. Freon was freezing at unit and not cooling upstairs. After 2 specialists from his crew came out they went and replaced the outside unit. Still no cooling upstairs. Freezing lines outside. Sent another team out. They found a shut off that had been turned off on the upstairs return in the attic where they replaced the coils and heater unit So make sure all the returns are opened in the attic. Have no idea why you would have a full shut off for returns. That's air. Not freon. Freon wasn't going up to the coils at all. Just freaking annoying they kicked it closed and walked away without checking for cool air. 2. You check for leaks at connections. Did you check to make sure nothing got bent somewhere. Coils or what not. Is it holding pressure. Biggest thing I learned was you have to filter out all the old freon if you change over. Have to get rid of all the bad and moisture. If your unit burned up you may have crud in your freon lines. 2nd house single story. They pulled the old freon but didn't clear it completely and also didn't vacuum it long enough then made sure it held pressure. Unit froze up outside and inside and ran until it blew a hole in the compressor and leaked freon all outside. They replaced unit outside. Owner was ticked and did everything himself. Bad install 2. Now for number 3. You may get a unit that says freon included. Believe it or not factories out of Mexico can make mistakes since that is where almost all the units are made. Freon in Mexico is the cost of bottled water. Here it's the cost of gold. Thank you Democrats. Your unit may not have come with enough freon. So just because you have no leaks doesn't mean you had enough freon to start with. You may have to add some. Another 2 story house. One other thing. Filter. If you are using the thick 4 inch filters that act like a firewall. That keeps air from going over coils. Try going to a 1 inch filter. More air takes away more cool from coils and allows unit not to freeze up. Just use a good one inch. Get more air. I don't use thick ones. Cost to much but they all do now. It is called Bidenomics. Double the price of everything and then say inflation is slowing down. What a moron way to destroy a country. I am not familiar with heat pumps. Just know I don't like them. Thought the house was on fire when auxiliary heat kicked on. Messed up. I will look more into them. Just in Texas we have our own grid and natural gas is cheap. Only way to dry clothes. Cook. And heat a house. And water heater. Not sure I want to steer away from any of that. But Biden will take care of that. Use natural gas to make electricity for your electric everything he wants to force down your throat. Once again Democrat morons.

[@selfmadeproductions7096]

Did that not call for a gasket behind the connector? I guess the flare is the gasket in a sense ?

[@benkanobe7500]

I did not see your deburring tool in your amazon page. Is it easy to find?

[@diyhvacguy]

Yea just type in debur tool on Amazon. It doesn’t have the be the same exact one I have but they sell them for about 10 bucks

[@z06rcr]

Nice work. What torque wrench do you use?

[@diyhvacguy]

Hilmor 👍🏼

[@z06rcr]

👍

[@feliciachitwood9400]

I have a question why would my vents be holding water in them? Filters good seems as if it’s kicking on correctly we have just recently encapsulate our crawlspace that helped, but it still smells really musky and still has a little water in the vents. Could you help me?

[@diyhvacguy]

You may need a whole home dehumidifier. I’d start by seeing what your indoor humidity levels are. If you need more help we offer remote services at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy Hope we can help! Cheers, Dave

[@TMHF]

Man, if you lived near me I would hire you to do a couple HVAC projects that I have on deck. I just don't trust anyone around here to do a job correctly.

[@joshswells]

What's the furthest distance I could install a mini split from the main disconnect? Is there a distance limitation? Thanks!

[@bnasty267]

General guidance for electrical circuits is to not have more than 3% voltage drop. This is dependent on the gauge of wiring used and the amp draw of the mini. There are calcs online for this: use the MCA rating of the mini for the amps. Roughly speaking, you're good up to about 100 ft of wire, beyond that, you just need to go to the next gauge wiring (probably 10/2 NM for most minis). So, you can go as far as you want, but you might need more expensive wire if really far.

[@davidgtr]

Is it a good idea to run nitrogen or is it completely unnecessary? Thanks

[@jonjoha7442]

Vacuum

[@pdnhsa]

I don't understand why you did not move the condensated drain line to the left side, there should be a connector on each side ?😇

[@brianklange]

I thought this too with my setup on the turbro - but the spring clip was designed to work on the right side. There’s a plug on the left that looks like it could be the case but it wasn’t built to work with the clip from the other side. This is probably solved by somebody more experienced than myself but I didn’t tempt fate on my first DIY install…

[@pdnhsa]

I installed about a dozen of these misplits for my house and my relatives, Pioneer, Senville, Gree, ... all of them have the drain connectors that I could move the lines to left or right, just use a pair of pliers to remove the clip.

[@TheHouseofSniffers]

Should I wait for the R32 systems?

[@diyhvacguy]

I have a video coming out soon on this. NO! Get a system before Jan 1 2025 in my opinion. 410a will be around for a long time to come, just like r22

[@locutz]

I thought it would've been way easier to bore the hole on the right hand side instead of coming across like how you did you'd have more space behind the unit but hey I'm not installing it 🤷🏿‍♂️

[@johng404]

Minimum length!!!!

[@peckerpeter2078]

You would have connections made outside as well, maybe because of window framing and stud layout there wasn’t enough room, and left side was the safest way. No patch work is always best. Also nice to see how to do both directions every house/application is going to be different. What is the warranty on this product from rusting in coastal areas? That is a screaming price for a 22 seer. Especially on 110 voltage.

[@TheViking34482]

Why is it that some unit need to be vacuumed and other not and to recharge the unit what should the pressure be and why is it that you only need the low side

[@james6794]

the only units that don't need to be vacuumed are DIY units. they come with pre charged copper lines and they are fixed length

[@jungapo2]

low side and high side are connected.

[@matiasretamales9628]

TCL model??

[@rastagrastag7784]

You made your job harder by having to cut and flare the copper behind that air handler

[@diyhvacguy]

I though this was easier because the lineset would have come out on the other side of the condenser. But they can be done both ways 👍🏼

[@robertwojtowicz933]

If it’s so easy, why is your neighbor not installing this himself?😂

[@diyhvacguy]

Because he had a neighbor who is an hvac contractor that would do it for free 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@diyhvacguy]

And he’s an old man

[@Rikjamzb]

Question for you. Why did you cut, debug & re-flair the last line instead of just backing the line out a little? Is that not an option?

[@randycarreiro8363]

His bends were off a bit i believe and he chose to

[@ziggyd3114]

Factory flares are inconsistent

[@kevinkevin9448]

2 different micron gauge ???

[@thomasnavaro9319]

Why did you change from the Fieldpiece vacuum gauge to the CPS Midstream? Just so you could show the numbers right side up?

[@diyhvacguy]

The stupid fieldpiece has given me problems from day one. I’m not sure if I got a defective one or what

[@morallyinsane7639]

Notice also that a nitrogen pressure test should be done over a vacuum test because in vacuum it has the tendency to pull the connection together and minor leaks are never detected. Besides any rise means there is a leak, that is why high pressure tests are best. Also check your electrical code for breaker size, 20 amp seemed low, should be a 30 amp breaker. Also use the right wire size such as number 10 wire. Lastly notice this guy is a professional and his neighbor is the DIY guy, yet he asked a professional HVAC tech to do the installation. So all you DIY guys take note that it’s better to have an experienced tech help you.

[@bnasty267]

The sticker on the side says 20A MOCP/16 MCA.

[@morallyinsane7639]

@@bnasty267 Os that minimum or recommend, because my local code says to use the 30 amp and you have to go by the electrical code for your state not the manufacturer.

[@bnasty267]

@@morallyinsane7639 I highly doubt local code requires a circuit that can handle 2x the current that mini will ever draw, even worst case. Local codes usually are stricter for the ambiguous parts of the NEC, not the stuff that is pretty clear cut where the equipment is rated. That sounds like some jackoff AHJ (inspector) BS. I'd call him on his nonsense and make him show where the NEC backs what he's saying. Do you have a link to the the local code?

[@morallyinsane7639]

@@bnasty267 All I am saying is to check you local code, it’s not my ass on the line if something happens, but yours. Do what you want, just understand that if you have a home inspection or something happens and they find it out of code, not only will you be sited, but it could void your insurance. That’s why it’s better to be safe then sorry. According to specs for an 18K mini split it calls for either 20-25 amp, that’s why most electricians install a 30 amp. 20 amp is the minimum, recommend is 25 amp, but most breakers are either 15 amp, 20 amp, and the next size up tends to be 30 amp.

[@bnasty267]

@@morallyinsane7639Agreed. Read the docs, which have to be stated on the plate on the compressor unit with a MCA and MOCP. Size your wire to the MCA and use the recommended MOCP for the breaker size if possible. For AC units, the MOCP can be higher than what the circuit would usually allow for. Dumb home inspectors don't realize this is possible, but that's their failing. Going lower on the MOCP (to the MCA) is usually fine, especially on minisplits that don't have high starting current.

[@Monkeyseemonkey79]

Installing these DIY units is one thing... but who repairs them when something goes wrong.

[@diyhvacguy]

Oh I dunno maybe an hvac technician 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@TheRajulurvashi]

I wish you were my neighbor.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Confused?? You show two different gauges but no explanation why two different ones. 30:40 is a Fieldpiece MG44 gauge then at 31:10 is a CPS VG200. Why two different gauges?

[@diyhvacguy]

That stupid fieldpiece has been giving me problems from day one. I think I got a dud. The cps is a better gauge for sure

[@codykruies3414]

Keep paving the way for homeowners to keep complaining to us real techs.

[@craighansen7594]

I learned hvac by working on mobile systems, then scaling up. In my automotive business dealing mostly with classic and muscle cars I encounter lots of people who try to do it themselves. This does give me opportunities to make money picking up where someone else realized they needed technical help.

[@deryatanbasi3046]

it ain't rocket science momma

[@diyhvacguy]

Cody, I absolutely will. It win win, you make money I make money 👊🏼

[@kevin9c1]

​@@deryatanbasi3046Steve Lav reference. Approved.

[@james6794]

@@kevin9c1 shes a leaker, next level

[@AiHDang]

You can just work with a little explanation, people will understand ! You do not need talk a lots, makes people tire tires tires…,!

[@diyhvacguy]

Most people say the opposite. Maybe they’re not as quick of a learner as you 👍🏼

[@Steven-rp8zo]

HVAC tech rates. $80 per hour for me to do the work. $160 per hour if you've already tried to install or "fix" it yourself and messed it all up. $320 per hour if you want to stand around and watch me work while giving advice and "helping". 🤣

[@fox156]

I'm calling b.s.if HVAC guys were charging $80 hour and knew what they were doing homeowners like me would hire them. Instead they are charging around $200 an hour, but only if you buy your equipment from them at 2x retail. Furthermore, they often don't know how the stuff they're installing works. It's a crapshoot hiring HVAC techs, most appear to be installers charging what id expect to pay someone who knows how things work and how to diagnose things. So, if happily pay someone $80 an hour to do it right the first time but that's just daydreaming.

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

why not just push the pipe out the hole in the wall ???

[@rayrios4361]

Hello Friend I’m thinking of installing my own Ac with coil but I have a question?? is Goodman a low end Air conditioner🤷🏻‍♂️