Car Leather: what am I really cleaning here?

[@mcflotty]

Bro, it feels like this video stopped a little short lol. I agree. Leather isn't a biggie, I've recently started using rinseless wash (DIY Specifically) to clean it. I don't mean to promote something you may, or may not be behind, but it does the trick. I have been detailing since the early 1990's and don't look for validation. It's been my side gig for may years as apparently, I can design swimming poos for more than a kings ransom lol., But, you use what works and doesn't harm. In detailing I've had one complaint. I had an exterior only and in cleaning the door jams, I got overspray on the drivers seat. I then cleaned that seat fully and the guy said it made the rest of the car unequal. So, I had to do everything inside. But, I've used Super Clean more than I can count, and without issue. I'm more gentle these days, but it alays world.

[@TheDim3s]

The pH level of leather used in cars typically ranges from 4 to 6, slightly acidic. This pH range is crucial for maintaining the leather's softness, durability, and resistance to deterioration. If the leather becomes too acidic (pH below 4) or too alkaline (pH above 7), it can cause the leather to degrade, lose its natural oils, and become brittle or discolored over time. Thats why you need to be careful when cleaning leather and avoid using high pH cleaners.

[@autofetishdetail]

@@TheDim3s and what do you think is the oh level of the synthetic top coat that all car leather has?

[@AndreasSchwarzinger]

Unfortunately, this is only half the truth - which is okay since you probably heard that from Colourlock as this is what they decided to preach. Yes, the leather‘s actual skin (called „crust“ in tanneries) is foxated at an acidic pH value (more like 3-5) during on of the later stages of a tanning process. It is fixated at that value, amongst other reasons, to fixate the color particles used to dye the hide. However, automotive leather is then coated with a primer, then base coat (the color), then the top coat. And here‘s the important bit: the top coat is pH neutral (or very very close to that). That‘s why leather is best cleaned and treated with pH neutral products. Not alkaline products, not acidic ones. Only if we talk about rare aniline leathers (e.g. early King Ranch in Fords), acidic cleaners make sense. More importantly: as long as these coatings, i.e. the top coat, are intact, all the talk about loosing natural oils, loosing moisture, or needing conditioners is nonsense. What you see, what you clean, and what you treat is the top coat, not the actual leather!

[@richardseem7948]

Awesome video and content good friend

[@chrissnoett3060]

I remember a few years ago that you said that leather car seats have a coating on them, especially American cars. Is that still true?

[@autofetishdetail]

@@chrissnoett3060 yes! Very much still true. And any time I discuss this topic, pseudo experts chime in about ph levels and how using the right cleaners for leather is super important but fail to factor in the fact that leather has a synthetic top coat.

[@chrissnoett3060]

@autofetishdetail using your advice, I started using degreaser on my "leather" steering wheel, and 9 years later it still looks brand new!!!

[@autofetishdetail]

@@chrissnoett3060 Bingo! And just like you, I speak from real-world experience. Not only my customers cars but my personal cars. My leather in my cars looks brand new despite using APC/degreasers to keep my leather clean AND never applying any leather conditioners.

[@scott1564]

@@autofetishdetail I'm still using Meguiars APC at 10:1 on leather.

[@johncee9412]

Second

[@autofetishdetail]

@@johncee9412 better luck next time!

[@1stfrompuertorico568]

First!!!!

[@ron8195]

Ummmm WTF happened?!??