Did our 91MPH Drag Pass Destroy our Turbo Predator 670? Damage Assessment + Teardown

Our methanol turbocharged Predator 670cc lawn mower powered drag rail was FINALLY fast! We still have lots of tuning to do, but first we need to assess the damage from the 91MPH pass we did at the drag strip. The engine started smoking, and we noticed a lot of metal flake in the engine oil, so we decided to tear it down for an inspection.
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[@jeffman3]

A note for Charles because I can tell the lash issue was bothering him: Don't worry about it. If it was right when you set it, it was right. As things heat and cool and wear inside of an engine, the lash will drift. It happens. As someone who is a lifelong owner of old Suzukis I can tell you the valve lash in a Samurai needs to be checked (and frequently adjusted) every 10k miles... And that's in a full-blown road car engine. To preempt any issues in the future, do a quick lash check and adjustment the day before you plan to take it to the track. It only takes a handful of minutes and when you incorporate that into your standard track prep it will remove it from the list of things to be anxious about. You're doing great.

[@mikescherrer4923]

I've never cared less about the handful of horsetorques and revs that my 4g63 hydraulic lifters take off the table... lash every 10k miles, jeez...

[@jeffman3]

@@mikescherrer4923 Right? And the dang thing only makes 60hp lmao

[@Wanted1069]

A dab of blue lock-tite, on the valve adjusters, helps. Feeler guages are your friends!

[@maahingupta2424]

@@jeffman3 wait 10k miles?we also had jimnys here (with the 1.3l g13b engine) and i have never heard of that small of maintanance interval,on the contrary the service intervals here were a bit longer than normal cars.heck,the cultus sedan had the same engine and the valve lash adjustment was not this early.

[@jeffman3]

@@maahingupta2424 It very well may have been Suzuki USA trying to stay ahead of the curve, but they recommend a check every 10k. Mine would always be one or two thousandths off by 20k, never enough to really affect performance but you could hear it. I have since moved on to a different powerplant in a more modern Suzuki but I can still pull a valve cover and set the valves on an old G13 or G16 in under 15 minutes. 🤣

[@jimmyguy428]

Maybe you guys need a little more valve spring given the higher RPMs you're running. Seems to me there might have been some valve float which made the push rod jump out of the pocket in the lifter. Great video guys, as always!

[@twatdidusay304]

I was thinking the same thing👍

[@pjnegale8082]

That is a good statement 👌was thinking the same thing

[@AndyGeesGarage]

Yep

[@dilianvt]

Basically they basically mashed the meat off the lifters and caused the engine to run as rich as possible hence why it was smoking heavily Also that means the turbo seals are still ok it’s just the lifters that have failed and need upgraded to more beefed up ones and also while they had the engine apart they should’ve honed the cylinder walls to help if they want to really make some POWER! and at least 10 psi of boost if they don’t do the cylinder honing properly they could actually cause catastrophic failure going down the 8th mile track regardless of how much power they shove into that engine as that catastrophic failure will likely be a spun bearing or a rod poking through the bottom end. Surely those two things are bad enough. What I am saying also that they need to set the valve lash when the engine is cold and after one pass down the drag strip where the engine has some heat in it and they will be able to run more fuel therefore more boost in effect going a lot faster and potentially running out of gear but if they go too fast then they will need to equip a parachute to slow that thing down.

[@jeffmoyer2192]

Boost can blow rings out

[@jamesfrost5261]

Can't believe you guys didn't pull the pistons out and at least check the ring lands. That's a really good sign of what the engine can take. The bearings can be fine but still have a cracked piston or a stuck ring. You were already there you just needed to pull both heads to check. With the amount of oil smoke I figured you would of ar least checked them.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Yeah,I wouldn't have stopped until I found the issue. Keep tearing it apart till it exposes itself ,and it should be obvious by some point.

[@chrisprobert6]

Totally agree 👍

[@rushking19]

Exactly what I was thinking. It's misfiring and is smoking that usually means a broken piston or rings.

[@michaelblacktree]

I think it would be a good idea to attach the crankcase vents to a catch can. Maybe even have the catch can drain back into the crankcase. That should keep the oil out of Ike's face, and off the track as well.

[@dylanzrim3635]

If it’s making crank case pressure and breathing.. venting it to the crank case will just not work

[@michaelblacktree]

That's not what I meant. I was talking about adding a drain to the catch can. It's a common practice.

[@phuckurpheelings3979]

You should really check the valve lash every time you take it to the track. For exactly this reason.

[@jamesbennett44]

It seems to be the norm.

[@lifebehindtheselens]

They should just throw this piece of shit lawn mower engine in the garbage and get a four-banger Busa engine or some shit something to be fast with gears and something cooler bro this lawn mower shit is ridiculous

[@ex35240sx]

​@@lifebehindtheselens lmfao who hurt you bud?

[@MikezDoesThat]

@@lifebehindtheselens you good bro?

[@slydog4535]

@@lifebehindtheselens I like seeing how far these harbor freight products can make it. Busa motor has been done, old news

[@shotsrodder]

You didn’t check the piston rings guys 🤔 that would be the first thing I I’d check because a boosted engine can ruin a piston and or the rings if leaned out 😬

[@hank5655]

I can't believe you didn't take the pistons out and check the lobes on the cam shaft with a micrometer and do the bore and the pistons, DAMM MAN!!!

[@geirhaugen3781]

You should also check your pistons and cylinder bores, as they are the most important part for producing power. A leakdown test or at least a compression test. For now i think your turbo is big enough, it can give more than you have now. Get your fueling under controll, and not by choking your carb with socks. Ignition timing is also a area you should look in to. Both for power and releability.

[@bowtie0069]

I agree. The first place I would have looked with all the smoke and the dead hole, would have been a broken piston or pinched ring land. Did they even pull a spark plug?

[@marcmo7138]

torn all the way down and washed the block inside and out. And flush that oil cooler.

[@bowtie0069]

@@marcmo7138 Show me where the crank was ever pulled from the block. or when the heads were removed.

[@rushking19]

I was waiting for them to pull the heads . It definitely sounds down on a hole. If it was just smoke maybe it could be the turbo but smoke , tons of blow by and a misfire usually means a melted piston or broken ring land.

[@marcmo7138]

@@bowtie0069 I mean they should have torn it completely down.

[@ReverendBow]

Great video... I bigger Turbo sounds great, but you have to figure out fuel delivery as well. Running socks over the air filter to get a richer mixture probably isn't the best way to do it. Love the Slingshot, by far my favorite project

[@tblosser8921]

This is one of the worse channels to comment on, they don't care. I commented on the dyno video, explaining the afr they were targeting was wrong because the gauge reads lambda (converted to afr) which is the same for any fuel thus target a gas afr, not alcohol, and that the carb would flow enough fuel with e tube and air bleed modifications.

[@gregwebb8939]

They definitely need to figure out the carb/fueling issues. Socks are just restricting the air, which is totally counter to adding the turbo. Does nobody make a small methanol carb?

[@tblosser8921]

@@gregwebb8939 I'm sure someone does for the right money. But the mikuni they have will work if they make adjustments to the e tube. Once the fuel goes through the jet (iirc they're at .125) it has to go through the e tube which has approximately .075 hole.

[@benthebuilder6934]

@@tblosser8921 just because they didn't reply to your comment doesn't mean they don't look at comments. They have liked alot of the comments I'm seeing so clearly they read through them. Also if you didn't comment in the first 24 hours it's safe to assume no content creator would see it.

[@Nunya_Beezwax]

A Vito's power jet is an easy, cheap, and quick solution. There's no way that engine isn't running lean.

[@sparky87213]

The extra vent will definitely help. I have found you can actually get more RPMs easier with the extra vent

[@joshuagibson2520]

Yes. This is true.

[@mmllmmll22]

It's because engine has a "more holes" to breath out things that get through piston rings.

[@playinwithfirecustoms7954]

...why don't you somehow attach a dense mesh screen to the new vent? It SHOULD allow air to move with minimal blow-by

[@michaelblacktree]

The extra vent should help. And they can run the vents to a catch can, to contain the oil vapors.

[@gagepuffinbarger6939]

given the evidence in this video, they really don't need more rpm lol

[@larrydavidson3402]

Happy for you guys that it wasn't totally destroyed. Gotta a couple top notch mechanics wrenching on it, Ike and Charles.

[@Nunya_Beezwax]

That's a Damn joke!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@Lss1six962]

Hey guys I don't comment much but if you run hd diesel oil (Cat 10w-30 and 15w-40 i know for sure have it) you don't need to worry about the zddp additive. Just don't run diesel oil in anything with a catalytic converter or it will eventually ruin the cat. Keep up the good work, cant wait to see it do over a 100!

[@ProdigyAutomotive]

Yup I just found that out the other day, a guy who builds engines for Roush Yates told me he runs Valvoline Premium Blue as break in/flat tappet oil and he's never lost an engine to it

[@adamr9215]

You can also buy break in oil, or several companies offer “hotrod” or “muscle car” oils with good zinc levels. Also, for an air cooled engine like that, they are better off running a straight 40wt oil.

[@buckykattguitar]

I've used Shell Rotella in my KZ1000 for 18 years now. Since I built the new motor.

[@shawnsatterlee6035]

Rotella 15-40 T4.... It's not synthetic. Synthetic oil is pure shit !

[@ProdigyAutomotive]

@@shawnsatterlee6035 Why do you think synthetic oil sucks? Conventional oil isn't as refined and has more particles/contaminants in it, I wouldn't run anything less than full synthetic on anything with roller lifters, most of these modern engines only have like .002 or less of oil bearing clearance, why ruin that with 1980's oil quality

[@burninpwder76]

I think increased spring pressure might help. I am amazed this engine has made it this far. Considering the problems I have discovered in predator twins that are being used in normal power equipment applications. You must have got a good one. Track prep check all oil connections fuel connections and air connections. valve lash if you have solid lifters. As an old racer myself I will say Keep the oil on the inside shiny side up and rubber side down Do not Reverse :D

[@noonecareswhenalltheydo]

This one is all forged and billet stuff. about the only thing original predator is the case and jugs. Heads are a maybe... if they are original, I believe they are ported and polished by the company they got this from.

[@GeorgeT6566]

So your good with putting this engine back together as is. Glad it's your engine and not mine. Good luck

[@MrTheHillfolk]

The best way to take a big pile of money and make it small is to go racing.

[@rushking19]

It will be apart soon . Hopefully they read the comments.

[@joshuagibson2520]

I'm so glad yall don't have a fake ass intro and try to be funny all the time. I hope yall never change. Some good dudes.

[@ry_dawg6835]

Please sometime in the near future do something about that sock over the air filter. It drives me insane to see such a beautiful engine have something so janky on it. And to also hear you guys talk about ways to squeeze more power out of it when you are intentionally restricting airflow on a high rpm turbo application. Anyways keep up good work the drag rail is an awesome build.

[@olekaarvaag9405]

The saga of this engine continues. I am glad to see you're taking well care of it, but part of me will always have the ducati engine on it.

[@jaymugridge1810]

I agree start the whole thing over with Ducati as the motor. Then they would have something.

[@fenderflapper1551]

nah, bomba deere 670 two stroke + turbo

[@Wanted1069]

Or a Yamaha Banshee Twin stroker 400something on Alky... But hey! Ducks can fly, too!

[@rickyslangstr8327]

Guys the point isnt to go as fast as possible. The point is to push that harbor freight engine to its absolute limits and see what that platform can do down the 1/8th mile. The entire rail was designed around that engine so i doubt they will put any other powerplant in it until the predator is completely destroyed. Even then i see it being chained up to the roof in the shop as a momento

[@Hitycooking]

youtube.com/@HityDesign

[@alanmachen9884]

Heavier valve springs to help out with valve float at high rpms

[@steverambo1648]

Welcome to racing. You're going to work on it constantly and beauty of it. You'll learn more and go faster every time you tear into it

[@mbminitrucks1]

Needs a 2 step to build boost and improve the 60 foot. Check the Dynatek drl-400. I use to run one on my bike. Wire the 'clutch' switch to your brake pedal then floor the gas pedal, it will pluse on the lower limiter, set to what your belt can slip. Then release the brake to launch, also has an upper limiter if you choose to use it.

[@jnljnl8485]

It needs a 500cfm holley. The accelerator pump and bigger fuel inlet will let you tune it to perfection.

[@patrickstrickland5537]

I'm not sure if that damaged tappet was causing the smoking issue. You may be pulling the head(s) to find more damage. Spark plugs may tell you if it's one or both cylinders with a problem. Valves, valve seals, guides and cylinder walls should be inspected too. Good luck guys and keep up the great videos! That thing was fast boys!

[@oldhillbillybuckkowalski]

That's why we changed the oil after every pass on the Top Fuel Harley dragbikes. And we only ran Royal Purple oil in them, as it was the only oil that still looked like oil after a pass.

[@henkverzeijl1525]

Good point! Also, adding ridiculous amounts of fuel washes all the oil off the cylinder bores, and ends up in the oil, reducing lubrication even when the oil isn't yet that contaminated with debris and carbon and still 'looks' good... (burning nitro and/or methanol hardly gives any carbon deposits anyway, so takes longer for the oil to discolor)

[@dukie1616]

Yes loving the content!👏 Y’all are great, and just gotta say the way Ike explains stuff when working on an engine is really encouraging and laidback in a good way, like that it’ll be fine kinda way. Yeah he’s a decent dude.

[@jhaedtler]

I'm thinking you may need more valve spring pressure. I think you floated the bottom of the valve train!

[@erikcourtney1834]

Exactly

[@junkyardboost8372]

I think so too. Done things similar with turbo cars.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

And check the fit of the pushrod to the lifter, make sure the pushrod diameter is ok and it seats in the lifter all the way.

[@dylanzrim3635]

Spring pressure means nothing if you’re not setting valve lash the day you’re racing

[@jhaedtler]

Which is the reason that this is done before each race!

[@harmonicadude4732]

You might want to flush the oil cooler.

[@rexhorning7228]

More rpm for more power. More fuel more power! It needs to handle 10,000 rpm. Water cooled intercooler to help keep the heads from getting too hot. This is my favorite engine build.Always loved its sound. Keep building it until it blows and then build another even better. Cars and cameras setting records and trends. Everybody wants one, I want one too. Awesome content! You should build another one with Harley transmission. Design and purpose build. Starting from scratch with intent to set records.

[@brianz367]

Love these videos where you go in depth into the engines. Reminds me the earlier days of this channel. Great job!

[@whatsoutthere6822]

With all the smoke and metal, I'd check rings.

[@edellenburg78]

I think you guys need to watch boosted boiz's last video about his turboed shopping cart. They hooked up a fuel tech management system to keep it from leaning out with a fuel injector.

[@fredbadgett7962]

Do a leakdown test on the cylinders. Turbo+ alcohol+Nitro creates lots of heat and could cause the end gap on the rings to butt together harming the cylinder wall.

[@zqwas6306]

racing is no joke on any level love you guys having a taste of pushing a motor to its limit that’s what it’s all about 🔧 💪🏼

[@mathewloossr.2829]

Absolutely makes my day to see your guys project's just love the drag rail!

[@Vindictus67]

Since you run nitro, and knew it was lean at high rpm's, you need to pull the heads, and check the piston tops for burning. That last pass had all the earmarks of a burned piston burning oil in the shutdown area. Very easy to burn a valve face or seat, too - nitro burns really hot, so better safe than sorry...

[@braziliansheetbox2497]

They were running very lean afr as far i know

[@davej3487]

In this quick and NOT through tear down they did not find what caused the smoke. A burnt piston will do this. If they did not open up the ring gaps it could be a broken Ring Land. I'd bet its going to smoke just as bad when they fire it up.

[@rushking19]

Exactly what I was thinking, I was waiting for them to pull the heads .

[@allensandven0]

For sure that was my comment, I thought why wouldn’t you check compression, if there going to go racing breaking down your rig every race is part of being a good team a not leaving a mess down the track is kind of a responsibility that comes with being a racer it isn’t fare to other teams , I’m not saying it was intentional or even negligent but they are new b’s and learning the ropes . They are on the brink of becoming the real deal . Just as soon as they get at least one complete spare setup so they can reliably race every time.. I better put my money where my mouth is and buy something at the store their going to need it !

[@rushking19]

@@allensandven0 exactly the need to get a catch pan made, and needs a good catch can set up and most importantly a better way to control fueling like an standalone or switch to blow through carb with a 1 to 1 fpr

[@reddog543211]

Great takedown guys.....great to watch 3 minds workin together !!!..... great cam shots and editing !!.... thanks for sharing this with us !

[@ruthdoyle9085]

An old trick for a 22,000 rpm chainsaw racing cart, was they sharpened the piston skirts to “cut” through the oil on the down stroke... you also need some high powered magnets installed in the oil pan...

[@revvychevvy43]

dang thats awesome ive been rewatching some older videos i bought a lawn mower to turn into a race mower and that gave me an idea to do a 670cc or a 420cc keep up the good work

[@donmears4090]

I'm liking the dragster content! Two thoughts about the engine, after each pass do a leak down test and if you're not doing it already check the valve lash

[@smokepeddler]

You can do everything perfectly. When perfect starts creating more power than it was intended to handle...,that's a good thing. That's racing. That's what inspires solutions and inovation.. Par for course guys. Keep at it .

[@skinnywheelz]

I never miss an episode . You guys have are awesome. The longer episodes are the best. The production quality 👌. Keep up the good work!

[@sawyerbennett8227]

So what did we learn? Adjust the valves pretty regularly. Good to know

[@JimN_AustinTx]

And increase spring pressure. Floating valves is hammering the push rods/ lifter

[@BobbyOfEarth]

Probably best to disassemble the engine to flush it and the oil galley...

[@lewhanna6112]

In my opinion, you should pull the pistons and check the ring lands. You may have collapsed one or both. Boosted applications tend to do that when you push them hard.

[@rushking19]

I think it would be more because they leaned it out.

[@joshuagibson2520]

I've been dying for this episode to come out!

[@rugbyguitargod]

What's the plan for fuel delivery? If you ran out of fuel/jetting in the carb with a smaller turbo (and restricted intake), you're gonna need even more fuel with a bigger turbo. If it were me, id just go with a CV carb from a 1200 Sportster. They're cheap, plenty available and if jetted and tuned properly can easily support upwards of 90 HP. If you end up needing more than that, a Screamin Eagle 44 mm flat slide Sportster carb would get you there.

[@shawnmann1781]

You guys should have done a full rebuild

[@ghomerhust]

glad nothing major was wrong. that's been a pretty solid little motor so far

[@krakhedd]

Ike - 25:13 - stripping a wire once w/ the knife tool on a Leatherman - learned young, "don't put your fingers where a knife may slip" - stopped myself for a moment, but talked myself into continuing, like, "nah, I won't slip"....and of course I slipped. Also to the bone. Strange part, it didn't hurt so bad; it was feeling the blade hit the bone and stop that got me. Similar knuckle, same finger, same hand, as your cut Ike lol

[@RollingThunder808]

I think you had valve float. You might need stronger springs. You should pull the heads and check if the valves hit the piston. I also recommend working out all the bugs on a dyno. You could dial in the air fuel mixture with an O2 sensor.

[@dylanzrim3635]

The valves were lashed ages ago and it used to run just fine. Just needed more regular lashing

[@RollingThunder808]

@@dylanzrim3635 At least do a quick check with the borescope.

[@douggriffith8435]

Bigger turbo…. Yes please!

[@ritewayempire]

Thankful the thing was not destroyed! Really enjoyed the video and watching yall work!

[@davebrown7321]

Loving the drag rail content keep up the awesome work guys!

[@wildliferanch3665]

I'd love to see fuel injection done on this thing and more boost! Awesome Dragster😎

[@mikerammelt2420]

A Snyper with timing and boost control. The CVT kind of bogs on the start line, then gets up. But is it hooked up at the end.

[@IanMBuilds]

Like first, then watch👍

[@ErnstheGreat]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@MayheM_72]

ALWAYS! LOL

[@pnworvandmore]

Always baby

[@BUILDNIGHT]

JUST AWESOME, GUYS! Congrats to you both! WELL DESERVED! See you soon!

[@WingmanJohnny]

Oh yeah guys. Yinz guys are doing it right. Keep up the great work and I will keep on watching

[@mrutherford8590]

I would have pulled the pistons and checked the rings

[@jimbagle.3939]

Again, I was way off. I'm sorry to all the people I made fun of fot thinking it would hit 90mph. It did.

[@joshuagibson2520]

I respect humility.

[@ensporium8857]

I had high hopes of 100mph. Its going to be exciting to see that

[@jimbagle.3939]

@@ensporium8857 there is hope.

[@jacekjackowski9057]

Thank you for a very nice episode, best regards and I hope everything will run smoothly, once again greetings from Europe and all the best, of course I am looking forward to the next episode😜😁🍻💪🤩🎉

[@rydplrs71]

You floated the valves somewhere around 6500rpm. You could go to a nascar style double spring, but might need a mobile starter to crank it up.

[@xerolift]

that entire engine needs to come apart and get cleaned thoroughly but I can't lie... I'm genuinely curious as to what's gonna happen to that time bomb from your lack of basic engine knowledge. it's really the only reason I watch

[@rushking19]

Man you don't have to be so mean. But yes they should of pulled it apart. I am calling it rn it has a broken piston/ ringland which side idk but you can hear it in the video. It clearly went lean they knew it was running lean, lean + high cylinder pressures = bye bye piston. It will just smoke once they start it again and misfire.

[@BecksArmory]

you need dual carbs, NO MORE SOCKS!

[@Derf1313]

I've used a pipe cutter to open filters, no extra metal & quick. Have seen plenty of valve lash issues with over rev/float, just makes a tiny gap that gets exploited... (Both 2 strokes & blower motors, slightly diff displacements, lol) Y'all seem to be dialing that project in, certainly an interesting build, for us to follow! Thanx !

[@rexhorning7228]

A big vent to a filtered catch can to help keep oil off the track would be great. Possibly do vent return back to the heads to catch the oil then still have a big filter vent to atmosphere.

[@barrywilky535]

Great video guys. Hey Charles don't sweat the valve lash thing. Looks like you had it right at 8,000 RPMs you had some valve float which allowed that to jump out. Maybe some springs. That thing is running really good can't wait to see the next trip to the drag strip.

[@jacksonms212]

Look there he goes again right from the get go of the video " we might be able to add a few more HP , I'm not kidding " 🤣 Ike ya killin me lmao

[@anthonyrocha8039]

Definitely loving this dragster series

[@shk2564]

Love the dragster episodes and can’t wait to see the new turbo at the track! 👍

[@Hitycooking]

youtube.com/@HityDesign

[@ryandunwell7158]

as a nhra fan and kart/minibike fan this is awesome content! Thanks guys!

[@elivestin5353]

I actually thing going to e85 will be a good bet for you guys. It is generally alot milder on your engine components and doesn't need as rich of a mixture (Is still pretty knock resistant). It's cheaper too.

[@garypeterson9083]

Awesome runs at the track. She's really coming along. I hope no metal made it into the oil cooler. I can't wait to see how much faster it'll be with everything back in good shape.

[@gradybrowning3976]

Loving the drag rail content!

[@danielcarroll5667]

I don't know if anyone else already said something but if you haven't upgraded the valve springs & you're turning up way past the stock rpm that would be your valve float...........you guys are fun as hell to watch !

[@isaacitllbefine7231]

Out valve springs are rated up to 8000rpm

[@rushking19]

@@isaacitllbefine7231 only thing is that's rated for 8k without boost . As you add Boost / more psi there's more pressure on the back side of the valve trying to push it open making the seat pressure less. That extra pressure plus the rpm is causing the valves to float. The damage on the lifters look similar to what happens with valve float because they get hammered when they float. Also you might want to check the rings . With it having a misfire , plus the smoke and the fact it pushed out oil the crank case it seems like the rings are gone. It's just something to look at mostly since it went lean.

[@jonathancrissinger2301]

That was awesome to see. I was very surprised to see that small amount of debris for the amount of stress that engine has endured. I was surprised that you guys didn't pull the pistons out to ensure the rings and grooves were free from any shaving as well. You were that far into it and that could cause a problem down the road. Looking forward to seeing it in and running again.

[@UpshiftGarage]

I never comment but i have watched from day one ..i am a drag car guy and i run twin turbos on my race car ..you need to run your crank case vents to a ketch can.. then you don't have oil going everywhere ...love all the videos keep up the awesome work

[@rbproductions78]

Another great vid guys. Just one small thing to note - when oiling the conrod cap bolts (or any critical fastener for that matter) be careful not to apply too much oil. Just a little on the threads and under the head of the bolt is sufficient. otherwise you can run the risk of the excess oil getting trapped between the bottom of the blind hole and the end of the bolt and hydraulically locking the bolt before the correct torque is reached. Otherwise, great work chaps!

[@tommierichter4631]

I love the videos.keep up the awesome progress guys.cars and cameras for life.

[@tommierichter4631]

Yo what's up Bros

[@jamesglenn2006]

You guys should start playing with clutch weights and springs, tuning those makes a massive difference in your hole shot, shifting, rpm. Can't wait to see more of this BA slingshot👍

[@Mikeofindy]

Love the content. Thank you guys for that

[@OverlandOne]

Awesome job guys...it lives to race again.

[@antoniowoods2587]

I've seen others comment about the lash, I just want to add, if someone hasn't said it already, but check the lash cold, then out a heat cycle in it, check again, then you should be good! Keep up the good work fellas.

[@JohnHill-jm7tm]

Another great video guys. This Old Man from Washington NC enjoying love you Guys 🛵🧔💝💝💝

[@paulvonrentzell5189]

Nice to see a slow methodical show. Love fast builds too!

[@DatBlueHusky]

you guys gotta run high zinc oil in these engines because its flat tappet cams. I do this to all my motors that are driven hard and 4 stroke outboards

[@optimusprimer4392]

could also run lighter oil 0 -20w with zinc

[@DatBlueHusky]

@@optimusprimer4392 No no, they gotta run really thick oil, thicker than diesel oil. Running light oils at those power levels, the metal parts will contact each other easily, its only good to run light oil on n/a high rpm engines. Cars with high hp boosted builds run like 15w60 etc to get those high oil pressure and keeps the turbo happy.

[@jphdg]

Love this thing! Keep up the great work guys.

[@rtb4008]

Add a crankcase evacuation kit with a baffle , rod bearings wear on the upper first,test your valve springs, you might be over reving floating the valves. Keep doing what you do guys!

[@richb313]

Love this series keep it going.

[@kaseyjones4143]

i would be worried about rings with that much metal. but you can do a leak down test for that and compression test. love the work you guys do keep it up. and not sure on meth setup but i would check on what plugs are good. hope to see 6s out of this thing. lets goooo

[@jamiefultz5937]

Lmao I was sitting in my barn relaxing started watching the video and when Ike started it up I smelt oil smoke I was like what the hell. Than I noticed someone pulled in the driveway smoking like hell

[@tyleradams7771]

I've learned alot from watching you guys and I love it! I'd like to see yall make a metal tube instead of using the rubber hose from the intake to the turbo so it doesn't collapse so much

[@erikcourtney1834]

They really need to figure out the air/fuel problem. There still blocking the air intake with a sock. Larger turbo is going to gain nothing but more lag and potentially less power.

[@jeremypike9153]

Valve float. Up the valve spring pressure/seat pressure to extend the rpm range. Also you should pull both pistons and inspect the bore pistons and rings. Nitro can be really hard on rings.

[@davidowen888]

Glad ya'll did a proper break down 😉 we wouldn't wanna oil down another track surface 😳 ☮️

[@willieshaw2522]

They didn't do anywhere near a proper breakdown. They didn't pull heads or pistons to find the miss or cause for the smoking. They also didn't flush the oil cooler, since it would have had debris in it.

[@mapbike]

great job fellas.. excellent video as always.

[@robertbishop3610]

Man! You guys are more and more making me want to do a custom chopper build with one of those predator vtwins

[@raynyhus2026]

Best things i can recommend from my automotive experience is a rev limiter and studs in the block, side cover and heads if you plan on after action tear-downs to save the the threads in the aluminum. Also bronze g I des in the lifter bores and valves. Great work, never even thought about hopping up small gas engines before your channel, now looking at using this engine in a off road play toy.

[@delmas15]

Keep building great stuff!!!

[@ivyisle]

For Charles: the valve lash adjustment works similarly to a guitar tuner when the last adjustment you make is to loosen the bolt it will always loosen beyond that point so you have to over loosen and then tighten back up to the point where you have your lash adjusted where you need it

[@andrewt9204]

In a pinch, local hardware stores usually have bar and chain oil, or some straight 30W engine oil. Works pretty well for assembly lube.

[@Cooldad87]

Can't wait to see when you guys might put a body on it I know baby steps but you guys are seriously doing a great job looking good 👍

[@liameverything4444]

I love your uploading schedule