Parts cannon couldn't fix this '90 F150. Old School diagnosing by the CAR WIZARD

Older vehicles without the ability to connect a scan tool can be very tricky to diagnose. The CAR WIZARD 🧙‍♂️ shares some secrets and what he found wrong with this 1990 Ford F150 with a surging, high idle.
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[@Soulburn89]

As the owner of an old alfa with two twin carbs (that has TB bushing problems because of course it has) and a 95 civic I appreciate this video way more than the ferrari ones.

[@samholdsworth420]

Yeah, Ferrari's are lameeeeeee

[@machtschnell7452]

Must be a pre 1971 Alfa or it was converted to carburetors.

[@Soulburn89]

@@machtschnell7452 1986 Alfa 75 2.0, it was sold only in europe in this configuration

[@user-sy1ed9ex5m]

@@machtschnell7452 Here in EU Alfa got away with carbs up to 92-93 (Alfa 33)

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

Same here...I can relate to working on modest 90s cars but can't relate at all to Ferraris, Lambos, or any other car of that ilk, so I have zero interest in them

[@rickgregoire9041]

I had one of those Ford F-150's with the 302 in it. It used to be an escort truck for oversized loads and had over 300,000 miles on it. Since I worked with these guys for years ,I knew this truck and when they decided to upgrade, I bought it and drove it daily for a couple years. It started using gas and flooding out a bit and used some old school diagnostics(been a licensed mechanic since '72) and tracked it down to the fuel pressure regulator and all my problems went away. It's amazing what you can do when you just sit back and think about things for a minute.

[@johnforeman634]

I have a beautiful black with charcoal interior 1991 F150 XLT Lariat 4 by 4. I bought it brand new. It began to run crappy for a couple years and I thought, oh well, it’s an old truck. I almost gave up on it. No one could seem to help me, until a mechanic at ford came out and told me “you need a throttle position sensor”. I said ok go ahead. Well, I could not believe what a difference this part made! It was unbelievable. It ran like new again, and still does. So, anyone who owns one of these, and it’s running rough, remember THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

[@rickgregoire9041]

I had one when the fuel pressure regulator went. Put a new one in and drove it for years.

[@posplayr]

I'm inheriting the running rich, floating idle problems of a 1990 F150 XLT Lariate 4x4 4.9L EFI with California emissions. After reading about how the fuel regulator can leak gas directly out of the vacuum line I plan on changing it out along with a host of other parts on this old truck. TPS, Idle Control servo, Air temp sensor all helped clear up the floating (oscillating) idle in drive, except it comes back in park/neutral. Even after cleaning up the throttle body (the gasket seemed shot), everything behind the throttle plates was black with soot/carbon and I think this has been going on for close to 30 years (2003 smog was 50 ppm Hydrocarborns until 2017 when it was 190 and who knows what it was today before I started working on it. All I know is with all the plugs sooted out, and was not going to pass smog. Looking at this think it seems like the air pump and EGR system can mask raw gas being pumped in from somewhere (fuel regulator??) Up until 2017 (HC 190ppm out of 220ppm Limit ). It still passed AZ smog (just barely) but showed signs of rich (HC 50ppm) in 2003 already. I drove it home for 10 hours from Colorado and it runs fine on the freeway at 65 mph and got 14.5 mpg and 230K miles.

[@JREwing78]

You know your '90 pickup is fancy when it comes with a tach, AND a fold-down armrest!

[@mromatic17]

my 94 does and I love my f1 shitty

[@CavemanVanDweller]

​@@mromatic17 f1 deserves it's own race circuit. And you have/get to haul your camper with with your racer!

[@mromatic17]

@@CavemanVanDweller i would do that. it has a hopped up 302 and its a 5 speed manual. its pretty quick for what it is.

[@mjwbulich]

Both! That's the '90s Platinum package.

[@pivotmaster9556]

I swapped the tach dash into mine, its plug and play for some years

[@johnschnellbach986]

Thanks so much for featuring a regular truck. Can you add more of these in the future? Millions of us have a truck just like this. Millions of us do not own Ferraris.

[@jasonthach44]

There arent that many millions 90s truck. Stop living in the past.

[@adotintheshark4848]

a real truck..one with "only " 2 doors, one without a back seat, power everything and heated seats. They can't bring those back soon enough for me.

[@jasonthach44]

@@CamoShirt I'm literally looking at cargurus right now and there's 2 90's 150, 2 GM trucks, and no Dodge trucks in my area in a 100 mile radius. Back off boomer, quit living in the past.

[@jasonthach44]

@@CamoShirt I'm from the rural area and I haven't taught about that in school. Old, boomer, out of touch, that just spells your name. Have a good sleep you bigot! Blocked!

[@Kosree1]

@@jasonthach44 I wouldn’t be so sure about your claim. There’s an estimated 16.9 Million Ford F-Series pickups on the road today. There might not be millions of an exact year, but I am willing to bet that there are around a million of this model’s generation (87-91) still in use. 2,196,074 were sold for the 8th gen (87-91) F-Series pickup. I have the 87 F-150 XLT Lariat. Mine was built in December 1986, and it was number 18813 of its specific trim package built. 113k original miles (odometer rolled over only once) and runs solid.

[@windowlicker4029]

I own that same truck except its blue and its got the 300. Bought it at 357k miles and now its at 404k and is 95% original complete under the hood runs absolutely perfect

[@MrMe-lf2ov]

As an owner of an 82 F100 I love these videos. So much more entertaining then watching videos on unobtainium cars.

[@PeteS528]

This video proves you're a wizard. I came to the same realization a few years ago when I bought my "new" truck. Wound up going from a 2005 compact sedan to a 2003 Silverado that I got for cheap. Sure I've put some money into it in the time I've owned it, but it's so easy and cheap to fix and I don't have a loan for a $50k truck. Suddenly it makes sense to put $2-3k into an older car and drive it another 50-100k miles. I might drive the oldest car of just about everyone I know, but I love it and I'm proud I can keep it on the road with my own tools and hands.

[@travis4798]

My brother owned a 94' with the 302. Use to be a dune toy with the factory engine still in it. Was running on 6 cylinders when he bought it. Thought it was just bad spark plugs or something. Turns out it didn't like ingesting sand and destroyed 2 cylinders. 1 broken connecting rod, other had no valves. Hardly smoked and the engine ran smooth, had lots of power lol! Very tough engines.

[@gorflunk]

Man, seeing that old F150 makes me miss my 96 shortbed. Had the 5.0, EFI, chrome stock rims and would practically turn on a dime. Both of its tanks worked and it had zero rust. Sadly, it was stolen and wrecked one night.

[@JoeZelensky]

😢😢😢😢

[@mitsubishistarion9741]

rip

[@NoNORADon911]

On vice grip garage a feller would rate this an A or A+ then go get a cold snack

[@JoeZelensky]

@@NoNORADon911 your screen name is idiotic

[@tstryker03]

I had a 97 old body style short bed with the V6 but it had a 5 speed tranny. It was about the most plain jane truck you could get from Ford at the time but it had a killer AC and Heater. Believe it or not on the highway the truck was a champ and got 26mpg+ because it was a 5 speed. I needed something bigger and sold it for $3000 and those people drove it for 5 years and never changed the oil and eventually blew it up. I seen it for sale on Marketplace recently and they are asking $2000 for it with a blown engine lol if it weren't impossible to find another V6 I'd offer them $500 and probably be able to buy it back but right now there is no way I'd be able to find another engine for it. I wonder if I could put a V8 in the truck the way it sets using the same 5 speed tranny? That might actually be a really good set up.

[@tatdexter2334]

I've been successful fabing my own bushings out of bronze valve stem guides on old "classics" similar to that F150. Find a bushing that is undersized for the trottle shaft and ream to size. Cut to length leaving enough to contour to the throat of the throttle/carb. Works great.

[@abechavez1876]

Can also use the brass fittings tubes found at hardware or plumbing supply stores

[@omegaman1168]

Hobby lobby has a selection of bras tubbing

[@richeyrich2203]

True innovation right there. At some point when the tech is good enough, it will be good business to be scanning and making exact replicas of all the parts for these old vehicles, with 3d printing on a per1order basis. Cutting out all the tooling cost of manufacturing. Side note, I learned how to re-babbet an engine this winter for my ‘38 ford. That’s where you secure the bearing journals into place with molten lead. Fun stuff

[@joshuamcpeek4708]

What kind of tolerances are you using to compensate for heat expansion? I'm worried that if I machine it to perfect dimensions the brass might expand and grip the shaft making it impossible to turn when hot.

[@tatdexter2334]

@@joshuamcpeek4708 Since the throttle shafts I've been working with are roughly the diameter of the steel valve stems, I've been using 0.001 - 0.003" clearance with the silicon bronze valve guide material. After measuring a couple of them using a split ball gauge I now find that a slip fit works and I've not seen any signs of binding or galling. Since die-cast carb bodies are so brittle, I use a light interference fit for the OD of the guide and lightly stake it once I tap it in place. I think you'll find very little range in temperatures at the throttle shaft. Maybe -40 degree air temp up to maybe 400 degree F when heat soaked (hard pull then shut down). Gas boils around that temp. I've seen a couple of my carbs with over 125k miles after the rebuild and the shafts are still in good shape. It's a fairly time consuming process but if you want to keep it "original" I highly recommend it.

[@Acelachaser1965]

I had an 83 Grand Marquis with a 5.0. Had idle issues as well. After replacing the TPS, it was still stumbling. Turned out some water in the gas from sitting rusted the screens in the injectors (2bbl throttle body). I just bought my 4th F-150 (95 with 266K) and having owned 84 and 91 models, I still have my OBD-1 scanner. The most common problem I’ve ever had was the ignition control module. I remember when you could buy them at KMart with all the other tuneup supplies!

[@enkodellc]

These are the types of videos I appreciate. Diagnosing older cars, relatable cars. I was diagnosing my 1994 LT1 and went down most of the paths he did here.

[@emilmaki3001]

Since I own a '94 F150 with a 302, I loved this video. Thank you so much for the tips!

[@nathankoroush7918]

Same here, 1986 f150 owner.

[@johnnysprocketz]

here, here lads!

[@boyracer3477]

@@nathankoroush7918 85 here ...

[@chrismaffei4214]

94. F150 5.0 I love these trucks. My dad and family always owned four trucks. They were always in the construction business. I always run fords My favorite motor is a 390. and 302 the most simplest engines ever to work on these engines either have a spark related problem or fuel problem and the transmissions are always a weak spot. Most people don’t serve them or have a small transmission cooler. I like to have a big cooler and synthetic fluid to keep it running cool.

[@jynxclover2996]

ive been steadily going down the entire car wizard playlist and then this pops up. love the videos and what you do, car wizard

[@markcoulas7782]

i have a 1991 ford f150 5.0, What I did was replace the map sensor also. You have to put gasket sealer around seal on the new map sensor. The rubber seals on the front of the truck let water down on the map sensor and it will go bad again. If you look closely at the map sensor it is mounted upside down on the truck so where the cover on the map sensor saps together that part will allow water to come in. If it mounted the other way I don't think they would go bad. If you don't believe me take the old one apart and see if it is rusted out or water is still in it. Second thing the vacuum lines. that go from the left side of the engine to right side are all color coded but the problem is that were made out of plastic back then. If you follow them from left to right you will find a junction block where they meet behind the engine. Mind you you have to get up on the engine to see the junction block behind the engine next to the firewall . They don't' leak they just melt together or complexly seal off. Go out to Silicon intakes website and purchase new vacuum lines by the foot. I think 4mm is what I used. I think I paid 1.25 a foot and you will need around 30 feet I think. There lines are real spongy at about 3/8 in thick and will not collapse under use. They come in 3 colors Red Black and Blue. I just ty wrap them off about two inches above engine so they don't get hot. They look really cool when you use different colors.. After I did that it stop the high rev up during the start up. Now the the truck will per all day at 600 RPM. I hope this helps

[@chiphaby]

That's not an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body and you shold never move it. It is keep the throttle blades from getting stuck in the TB by closing too far. The ECM is programmed with the volume of air that is getting by the throttle blades in the idle position and if you change it you will throw it out of whack.

[@Mgtb742]

My 1990 mustang was having similar idle issues, I did a bunch of things then finally decided to just replace the throttle body. It actually fixed my issue. I was kind of fortunate it worked for me.

[@eliseoguzman6939]

I appreciate honesty. It's hard to find mechanics like that these days.

[@drunkingsailor2359]

Man you ain't kidding I'm in West Michigan and finding someone who has knowledge of these years of trucks is very thin

[@coloradoriversurfer5421]

Pay a mechanic their hourly to sit and talk to you. You will get honesty. Bring beer.

[@ronjarvis8893]

I got lucky a couple months ago and got an 89 for $900 from the guy that bought it at Rusty Eck brand new. He had let it sit because of his health so I've had to do a few things. I have my idle problem to where this kid got his before seeing you Wizard. Now, after watching this video I can finish getting it right. Thank you

[@GeekyFast]

My 93 Ford E350 and I feel like this sermon was preached directly at us. Great content, as always Wizard!

[@beausw]

My old man has a fleet of old late 80's to early 90's f150's with the 300 in them. The carbureted engine actually got better gas mileage off the bat. They are bulletproof.

[@billmelcher625]

I had a 91 300 5 speed 4x2. the body was rattle can camo over rust. engine knocked so bad people stare when you drive by. but it would never quit I signed it over to a friend when I moved away.

[@Chris_Troxler]

You can't kill them. I've tried.

[@Zzus321]

That motor was so good Ford had to quit making them

[@antoniovillanueva308]

I love I-6s! IMO, the ideal truck engine design for someone living out in the sticks. A market that is almost entirely second-hand and the manufacturers have no reason to cater to us. It is a shame. Looking at my LS-based V8 I have often wondered why GM did not use these components to create an I-6. Reuse pistons, rods, valves, EFI components, the basic valve train, and head design. Maintenance could be such a breeze! Rebuildability and lifespan are very real eco-concerns, IMO. Throwaway cars create very real pollution! (If I ever win the lottery...)

[@ricochetey]

I believe the carbureted 300 6 gets better fuel mileage and probably has more power at least more than my 91 300 6. I've never been able to get it to run right. My mechanic replaced the cracked head with a reman and also replaced the ecm. I then replaced the tps and iac. It's a total dog and runs rough. I'm kind of at a loss if I had a mechanic like the wizard I'd have him take a look but at this point I don't really trust any local shops to actually pinpoint the issue.

[@aaronpedersen4886]

Hey Car Wizard. I've worked on quite a few OBD I Ford's, for myself, and for there people around here. I have a 1984 Lincoln Town Car, that I found that I needed a new throttle body for, and I couldn't find one anywhere. Even in the salvage yards. It's CFI. I never really cared for that system anyway. I initially converted the car to a carburetor. That worked well for a while. I started burning some oil, so I took the engine apart. Long story short, I put together a 351W stroked out to a 408. I topped it off with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, and a Holley Sniper EFI kit, and ignition system. I know that this is a lot more expensive way to go, but I swear by this Holley setup. I even used the stock in the tank Fuel pump on my Town Car. I think that with these older fuel injection systems, this is going to be the way to go. There really aren't any OBD I parts cars anymore. Seems like Cash for Clunkers was a war on OBD I.

[@peetky8645]

CFC - yet another gift from obama.

[@bobkonradi1027]

This video is equal to the best one the Car Wizard has ever done. I thank him very much. And BTW, this truck is exactly perfect for a young driver. It gets the job done, its basically in good shape, and he can learn a little more about working on cars and trucks. I'm sorry that this repair will cost around $800 (+/-) , but actually perhaps the owner could learn to do some work on it himself. If the diagnosed problem is worn bushings on the throttle shaft, perhaps he could figure a way to make his own bushings and install them. That would give him some tremendous pride of ownership. "I fixed it myself."

[@idahojoe8232]

I have a 93 f150. She still is going strong. Thank God! I go to local mechanic, it’s just him and his son running things…🇺🇸

[@liquidflorian]

I see the rising car prices and chip shortages, and think that videos like these, Junkyard Digs, Thunderhead289, and Dylan McCool becoming more and more valuable. Lost knowledge about carburetors and points system ignitions are going to become valuable.

[@martincaldera386]

Now I can sleep tonight, viewing your channel is like going to church, relieves the spirit. Thank you Wizzard.

[@nicholasmelfi4684]

Those early Fords were bad about not coding MAP sensors or faulty TPS, You hit the nail on the head in this vidoe

[@markwarren9123]

If you find a good mechanic, that is a blessing. I have a very good mechanic, very close to home. When my wife made Christmas cookies for everyone, I asked if I could give a tin of cookies to my mechanic, which I did.

[@801Bill]

As a backyard mechanic I can attest the value of an OBD scanner with as many adapters as can be had for it. I have one for my 1994 f-250 (okay, was dad's scanner and his f-250 before I inherited them), and it has been invaluable to save time and money.

[@volvo09]

With this era vehicles being able to read some data is invaluable too. Plenty of these sensors won't throw a code when improperly adjusted or bad. Quite a problem when someone has thrown a pile of junk chinese parts on it and introduce more unseen problems because the main issue is still there.

[@eaglewarrior8707]

@@volvo09 Electronics don't like heat in general though. And with some doing. You could actually reroute the electronics away from high heat areas of the engine and remake new electronic parts if need be on the older cars. The backyard mechanic has evolved a lot passed the wrench and hammer.

[@P_RO_]

None of those newer scanners work with these Fords. This is an OBD1 system using proprietary coding, oddball diagnostic plugs, and an adapter harness temporarily installed in the wiring. It's essentially a Ford-only tool for these models, nothing else will work, and there's only a handful of codes- not the dozens like today's cars. But the system is simple so you can use a multimeter just as effectively as he did here. For other than the ECM and throttle body, parts are cheap and easy so doing a parts cannon is common and generally works well.

[@dastrayer63]

@@P_RO_ I agree to a certain extent. Diagnostic time is sometimes not worth the parts cost. Us back yard mechanics now have the power of the internet to help each other with diagnostic hacks and aftermarket parts reviews.

[@peetky8645]

what scanner do you use. just got a 95 f-superduty and the obd1 adapter for my actron scanner that fits my 95 5.0L bronco does not fit the diesel plug. any ideas?

[@chuckspeed8880]

Bbk 3501, it’s a upgraded throttle body assembly, all in stock at summit racing

[@redjar69]

I’ll second that. If you can’t get oem there are always performance upgrades for the 5.0

[@D_Spear]

My first vehicle was an 88 F150 in 2008, so it was 20 years old. It was the XLT 4x4, single cab, 8 foot bed and 4 speed granny low. It was such an amazing truck, I paid $1500 for it when I was 17 years old. It ran great, the TPS was bad and I replaced that, exact same issue this truck had…and I had to do some work on the clutch slave cylinder. It had 250k miles on it and I let my mom borrow it after fixing clutch ( over $400 in parts )and she got drunk and totaled it out. To this day, at 30 years old, I still miss that truck. My mom gave me $350 for totaling it and to this day I’ll never let someone else drive my car besides my wife.

[@p00ner]

Just finished installing all new vacuum lines in my 94 F150 5.0. There’s alot of little things that can be upgraded on these trucks to make them function better.

[@seanhershey3390]

My neighbor has a n 89 F150 bone stock stripper w 48k miles....300/6 manual. I love it he replaced the old ECU & it fixed his issues.

[@michaelporter3555]

I really like the line "help AutoZone clear their shelves". Those were very good trucks and they rode and drove fairly well. The inline 6 was exceptionally durable and also fairly smooth for an engine family that started production in the early 1960s.

[@LMacNeill]

My 20-year-old son has a '93 F150 with the 302 EFI V8 engine that his grandfather bought new in '93, but doesn't drive anymore. So he gave it to my my son who is fixing it up bit by bit. It's got got that same rear-tank-not-working problem. LOL. I'm sure there's a '90s F150 *somewhere* that has both tanks working, but I've not seen one in years.

[@mistermyass9920]

Anyone else just get super excited when they get the answer right on the multiple choice? Continue to learn something every time I watch the Wizard.

[@jeremyTallen1]

I was starting to think Mr. Wizard was getting to uppity to touch anything that's wasn't super fancy. Glad he proved me wrong.

[@isaac24]

Wow, I love that a high school kid owns that. I have the 2nd oldest car in my high school, a 1995 Monte Carlo. The oldest belongs to a junior who has a 1993 Honda Accord. I used to be tied for 2nd since there was a senior that had a 1995 Mercedes E300 diesel until he totaled it.

[@DjDestinyChicago]

My first car was an 85 MC. Back In the mid 90s when you could get those all day for $300 running & driving

[@isaac24]

I really want an RWD MC at some point, or even a Cutlass/Regal from the same time (I think it was the G-body, correct me if I'm wrong), but mine was the first attempt at the FWD ones. It's not fast (3100 V6), but it is bright red, and a coupe, which I like. It's also pretty much a Lumina, so gets almost no attention.

[@DjDestinyChicago]

@@isaac24 I actually read that wrong lol thought you said 85. Yes those are G-Bodies. I had almost all of them back then, never had a Regal though and those were always my favorite. Before those and caprices were classics, they were dirt cheap. Now the prices are crazy

[@Prestiged_peck]

I daily drove a 76 c10 for an entire semester of senior year.... yeah I definitely held the record.

[@isaac24]

@@DjDestinyChicago Yup, definitely. Since I can dream, a Grand National would also be nice :-)

[@mistermister2085]

I use to borrow my brothers' f150 in the late 90s and i'd use whatever tank he wasn't and then switch it back when i was done. These thing were notorious gas pigs (302) --luckily gas was a buck a gallon so it didn't cost him much!

[@g-mang-man7924]

Had 2 F150's. An 87, and a 94. Both of them were regular cabs, 8ft beds, 300 W/Automatics. Lots of parts replacements on BOTH of them, but not any parts of the driveline, other than valve cover gaskets, lifter gallery and oil pan gaskets. Both received fuel pumps, rear tanks, fuel lines, brake lines, heater cores, brakes, and ball joints. 87 rusted off the cab mounts, and had to crush it. 94, finally sold it in 2008. Loved these beasts. Then bought a truck from the competition, but that is another story

[@JimS6025]

The INNOVA 3145 still is a useful tool, I have one, and still do, it works well, I would recommend grabbing one, especially for the young guy that owns the truck. Very helpful tool.

[@peetky8645]

'94 ford bronco 5.0L - agree

[@jjlegend3922]

Those dual tanks screwed me one time. I don't remember what led to it, but I was stuck with only the back tank, which was quite a bit smaller than the main front tank. 120 miles a tank, tops. I hated that summer.

[@rpsmith]

A guy pulled me over in my '87 Econoline and told me my rear fuel fill door was leaking gas and sure enough the solenoid valve had gone bad and was returning the excess fuel to the rear tank instead of the selected front tank! It went bad several more times before I sold the truck.

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

I had a similar issue, had the front tank selected, gauge was reading front tank but the selector valve had failed and defaulted to the main (rear) tank. Ran out of gas because of it and didn't figure it out until I got it home. I laugh at that now, but it wasn't funny when it happened. Luckily it happened a few blocks from home.

[@shaung638]

I've had them save me more times than have a problem with them. Nice to have a second tank and pump when a fuel tank is acting up in the heat.

[@boyracer3477]

@@shaung638 SPEAK TO ME SHAUN!!! I've had ongoing problems with mine stopping in the heat and then running fine the next day. What was the problem???

[@shaung638]

@@boyracer3477 Good chance it is the fuel pump itself that is acting up. As they age the output pressure goes down and engine heat combined with a hot day will cause enough back pressure that the fuel pump won't move enough fuel. Typically the motor will either die or run extremely rough. If both tanks are functional try changing tanks as soon as the motor starts acting up. Should clear up right away unless you happen to have both fuel pumps bad.

[@TheRedneckBudha]

As a guy who dailys a 77 firebird I appreciate this video alot more than the high end car videos more in line with my price range

[@C--A--M]

As straight and rust free as that truck is in addition to being a short bed with a 5.0 engine, it's ABSOLUTELY worth saving and putting money into! Good call from the high schooler!

[@ronroberts110]

The new aluminum engines have often had at least one "overheating" event, and the heads are toast. The old 300/302/351 cast iron engines are absolutely worth a rebuild at 300K miles. You can even find a spare engine cheaply, have it rebuilt at your convenience while the old engine is just burning a little oil, and swap them on a single weekend.

[@bowslap]

Just as soon as you rattled off the potential list, I immediately started thinking of the the throttle shaft being worn. A good friend of mine had a full-time carburetor rebuild/restoration business for about a decade, and more than once I bore witness to him having to drill the throttle shaft bore for bronze bushings due to excessive wear. Not terribly difficult, but time consuming compared to swapping on a replacement.

[@yalantyr25]

As a Diehard GM guy myself, I actually love the 1980-1996 Era F150s with the 300 I6 engines, damn near unkillable as long as you keep coolant and oil in it

[@JS-gw5ne]

I own 2 of them an 82 f100 with a four speed and a 85 f150 with the automatic both with the i6

[@mph5896]

They do run a long time. I bought an old one to try and tow with it. Had a 5 speed and fuel injection. Tried towing a 4000 lb car on a dolly. Truck could not get out of its own way.

[@yalantyr25]

@@mph5896 The later ones with the fuel injection were mist definitely slow turds in their own right, however they still run damn near outliving it's predecessors

[@harrywalker5836]

@@mph5896 what you do, is, ,,seeing there all v8 parts inside. fit flat tops, mild can, decent inlet 4 bbl. never sell it.. there a lugger. if yours wouldnt pull,then something wrong with it timeing, fuel,blockage. mine drove everywhere in top..[ i have to comment to the chev guy.not going to like it..]..

[@harrywalker5836]

im still waiting for chev to build a decent engine. the 454 & LS come close. but, still lack real engineering.. i have chev parts on my ford, like discs, but, ill never buy one. that said. here in aus, i wanted a blazer. about 6 in the country, so that never happened. i just liked the dash layout.. i now have, a, 62 f100 4x4, 75 highboy, 82 sas bronco, 2002 s/duty, & a challenger, 340 r/t. 73.. not one chev in sight..but,,if you containered say 10, here to aus, you could retire.. stay safe, hard to find a modern vehicle thats any good..

[@scottgraham1153]

This is why I enjoy this channel so much.

[@jayleeper1512]

Just an FWI. I had an 89 with the 4.9 and decided to do a motor swap. I worked on it over a summer and got it together the next winter. Everything worked good but when I started it, it ran flooded, blew black smoke and wouldn’t hardly run. I went crazy tearing crap apart and trying to figure the issue out. I finally went back to basics and started checking vacuum hoses. While torn down, a mud dauber wasp had crawled into the vacuum tube to the MAP sensor and built a nest, plugging the tube. I ran a wire through the tube, a bunch of mud and larvae came out and after that the truck ran fine. Crazy bugs, they have wrecked a lot of stuff with their little nests.

[@10ken1958]

Wow, does that bring back some memories! I had exactly that model with the straight 6 and with a manual trans and I loved it. That engine was no speed demon, but it sure was reliable.👍

[@kennethkirklin6959]

Had the same truck in 1997 loved that truck

[@muskokamike127]

THAT is the issue with today's vehicles: they are so wrapped up in HP and Torque and jimmy jims and goo gaws they lost the plot. Daddy Doug reviewed a truck and he whined about some of the lack of gadgets, DUDE IT"S A TRUCK it's not SUPPOSED to have gadgets. WAAAA it doesn't have power seats! WAAAA I set my seat the day I took possession of it and it hasn't moved in 6 years...same as the mirrors and the pedals. I need 3 options in my truck: cruise, power windows and a/c......

[@blmdh20s]

I've had 3 trucks with that setup. 69 F-100 with a 3 on the tree, a 94 F-150 with a 5 on the floor, a I'm currently driving a 95 F-150 with an automatic transmission. All of which had over 300,000 miles on it. The 94 when I sold it had over 383,000 miles on it, and I saw it still on the road late last year. If you take care of your vehicles, they'll last a long time.

[@kenweiss8565]

This was a great video! I love the wonderous variety. I also love that you talk about vehicles and problems I might actually touch or deal with. I am so glad you take the time to produce these videos! Thank You!

[@jeffbrown3963]

Had a 92 E150 302 van that kept stalling out. Fired the parts cannon repeatedly until I figured it out (vapor canister purge solenoid). But I kept all the good used parts. Thanks to my son's, word got out, and I was the "go to place" to troubleshoot your truck. They would swap parts and if it was the problem, they would go buy a new one and give mine back. Believe it or not, I miss those days! Great video down memory lane. Thanks!

[@tylerrobbins9126]

It’s nice to see an old junker on the channel very refreshing

[@CJColvin]

I have a 1996 Ford F150 with a 5.0L (302) Windsor V8 with 210,000 miles and still going strong, the only things I replaced on my truck was the starter, the rear fuel pump, and the power steering megunisum but other than that mostly was just simple maintenance, took out the transmission fluid just to get rid of the shuttering it was making and it hasn't had a problem ever since.

[@BA-gn3qb]

In 1979, my parents bought a brand new Ford LTD. And my mom of all people, insisted that it had the Windsor engine. Smart mom. Great long running car.

[@CJColvin]

@@BA-gn3qb Sounds awesome brother.

[@ajmedeiros77]

Canada knows how to build an engine!

[@ianmontgomery7534]

@@ajmedeiros77 Ford Australia did a 302 Cleveland which was only used locally. It was an Ok engine too.

[@jwelchon2416]

I have the same F150 as you. I wish the new Ranger or Bronco came with the old pushrod 302 instead of those retched Eco-Boost engines. I don't think people will be bragging about their Eco-Boosts 26 years from now.

[@mph5896]

BBK 3501 is an aftermarket throttle body. I personally would try to get a used one or NOS. But, the aftermarket one is an option to consider.

[@W1Kilo]

Your suggestion is solid. I looked one up and there looks like there are three versions. BBK #3501, #3502 and #3503. As for differences, not sure. But I imagine the closest to stock would be great.

[@FM4AMGV]

yeah i'm honestly surprised he had a hard time getting something for a 302, those things are so common in the aftermarket.

[@MichaelRCarlson]

@@FM4AMGV Ford stopped making them quite a while ago

[@FM4AMGV]

@@MichaelRCarlson but in the aftermarket they are quite common.

[@seankadar9550]

Just purchased a 1994 4.9 manual trans regular cab. Love it and will restore it. 80’s and 90’s trucks where by far the most reliable.

[@ZGryphon]

Ah, the Ford Fade. I knew someone in high school, right around when this truck was new, who had the mid-'80s equivalent in the same color scheme, and it had _already_ faded from maroon-over-beige to that distinctive two-tone pink. So nostalgic.

[@2468battman102587]

Hello wizard! Long time viewer, first time commenter! I have a 1997 F-250HD with a 351W, it did the same thing as this 1990 F-150. After many parts climbing past $500 I discovered it was the MAP sensor. It cost me $26 and took 5 min to replace! I love your content! Keep creating! And please give my best to Mrs wizard!

[@jayman4095]

Damn I'm glad I got to work on old school cars growing up & still to this very day, definitely a completely different world on diagnosing if a vehicle doesn't have OBD2. As the Wizard mentioned in one of his previous videos that the Alfa Romeo 164 in the background is one of the hardest cars he's worked on... I can absolutely agree, the 89 164L I have to work on is so far the hardest car I have to work on as well having over 120 hours of diagnosing wrapped up into it... The car is sorted and back to 100% minus the sun faded red paint but it took 2 whole years just to get it roadworthy nothing quite like waiting for parts from Europe.

[@marlinnotfish]

I watch your videos all the time but somehow missed this one. I coincidentally bought a 1988 f150 2wd with the 4.9 i6 back in February and did a TON of work on it. I am a backyard mechanic. I have 5 ASE certs from automotive school but I never persuade a career in automotive. I couldn’t agree more with you about how hard these trucks are to diagnose. I had to replace both fuel tanks and both sending units because of holes and rust in both tanks. That really ironed out a lot of its issues. Whenever I find myself getting frustrated with it I remind myself it’s 35 years old and I should be grateful it’s still on the road and not in a scrap yard somewhere. The little truck worked it’s way into a special place. Makes you realize how simple times were back in the day when I wasn’t even around. Gets a lot off attention on the road like a classic or something. Thanks for this video!

[@CorvetteLS7427]

I have a Ford 90 F-150 Custom, with the 5.0 v8, truck still going strong, bought it brand new in 89, it’s my work truck for gardening.

[@lashlarue7924]

LOVE the diagnostic game show element. It challenges & sharpens my shadetree abilities. PLEASE MAKE MORE!

[@TheTarrMan]

Stupid question but have you tried calling up the Ford dealer? Also it's worth mentioning but they sell rubber gasket material by the roll. Depending how good you are and how adventurous you feel you could always use that material with an X-Acto blade to make some new gaskets. Let's see you show off some skill to those "Lesser McHanics". "McHanic" = Mechanic : I pronounce it in a kinda "McDonald's" or "McJob" type of way.

[@claudhenrysmoot7957]

Revisiting this video two years later- it still checks out. Modern “Dixie cup” trucks are selling for way too much with way too many failure points and old trucks are commanding top dollar even with issues.

[@shrek_428]

I wish we had old Ford trucks in that condition up here in Michigan. Compared to our rusty rides, that thing is spotless.

[@RedLP5000S]

My favorite Ford full size pickup. Especially this style from '87 onward. Additionally, my favorite Bigfoot monster truck is BF4 with the same front end.💙🤘🏻

[@dragon81heart]

Totally agree with Crazy D (haha unintentional rhymes) The 300 inline 6 was one of the most dependable gasoline engines ever made! Had quite a few over the years, and if not for the rust (I live in Pa where in the winter the roads are salted more than pretzels) every single one of them would still be on the road. Mechanically they were all still just fine. Not a speed demon by any means. They drive more like 3/4 of a 12 valve 5.9 Cummins, and nearly as long lasting too. Gobs and gobs of low end torque, and will last an eternity, but no point in redlining them lol It won’t win a drag race, but will almost certainly outlast anything on the road. A gem of an engine

[@SlimeDonkeyTV]

I agree to put the money into the truck.. I just pulled a 87 Ford 4.9 manual 4wd out of a field that has been sitting for 17 years.. It's getting a rehab, and I am putting it back on the road..

[@zanesutherland406]

My grandma has a super basic ‘91 Ford F-150 with the straight 6, automatic transmission. It’s an awesome truck and goes great in the snow. It came factory without a headliner, no ac, not even a cassette player, manual windows and locks. Bench seat. Right now it has a short somewhere in the taillight wiring, and she also needs her leaf springs replaced. But it is the perfect farm truck. Has a large topper and is a long bed.

[@GorillaCookies]

I have a 90 with a 5.8 . Short box 4x4. Great truck. Decent power and mileage for what it is.

[@Flies2FLL]

In 1986 I was a 20 year old college kid home for the summer in Michigan and I worked for a landscaping company. To say that I was in shape is an understatement! None of our "walk behind" mowers had the platforms that landscapers have these days. In any case, one day my boss handed me the keys to the silver '81 F150 in the lot. He told me to drive up to Detroit, 15 miles away, and to take a large Stihl weed whip with a metal blade and mow the berm at Detroit Edison's Connors Creek Power Plant. You're probably cringing at this point, but I wasn't. The berm wasn't that large, the whip would make short work of it, and I liked working on my own, though normally I was with a crew of other college guys that I really liked. But just a chance to go up alone and do some easy work really appealed to me! The truck involved was a manual, with "Three On the Tree", or a manual column shifter, a bizarre idea to me. Anyway, this had the 4.9 liter inline 6, which was very torquey. The Ford "truck 6" is a nearly indestructible engine that makes decent horsepower for a work truck while not using much fuel. When I was 33 I bought a '66 F100 from a friend on a whim with the 4.0 liter version of this engine and used it as an airport car, and I can see why he says these run forever; They are massively overbuilt, weigh 700 pounds, hate to rev, and are totally underworked~ The problem with the '81 Ford: The steering gear box. I was worried as I drove the truck up I-75 at 70 mph that I would get pulled over because the truck wandered left and right. Not scarily, but easily manageable if you pay attention. This is TYPICAL. And this goes back to all Ford trucks since the 1960's In any case, I liked the truck, despite being a serious Volkswagen/German car fan. It was solid, it was no bullshit, it did the job, and then it went home and drank beer. Great video!

[@Oddman1980]

I had a 1981 F100 with the 300 and column shift. And a 4.11 rear axle. I remember that by the time you'd done the routine to get it into second gear, the truck had almost rolled to a halt. I think flat out it wouldn't quite manage 10 MPH in first gear. Sure would pull though. It developed a quirk where if you hit one of the many potholes in my area, the engine would die. But if you left it in gear, and you were quick, you could hit another bump and it would start again. I went to replace the ignition switch, and it disintegrated into plastic gravel with metal strips in it. I carried the aforementioned pile of rubble into the local Autozone, and the guy behind the counter, upon seeing it, asked "What year F150 is this out of?"

[@donmoore7785]

I had an '89 F-150 Lariat, with a 5.0 and manual transmission. That was a beast of a truck.

[@kengrubb]

I have a 17-year-old 2005 Saturn Relay 2 minivan. 3.5L V6 and FWD. We looked at new ones 2 years ago, and I looked again recently. I'm only really considering either a Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna. But even those used are quite spendy. In the last 2 years, our minivan has had new steering gear, struts, springs, valve cover gaskets, front and rear main seals, oil pan gasket, and heat door. It's in the shop again. Fuel pump and fuel sensor, another heat door (going with a GM part this time, wish I had found Car Wizard 2 years ago to hear his advice on aftermarket vs OEM parts), radiator cleaning, and possibly a radiator fan. I pulled the thermostat myself at the start of summer and flushed it to remove rust poor man style (drain the radiator, add tap water, drive it, repeat the next day). Yep, we've spent more than the minivan is worth. But it has 140K miles, leaks less than it used to, and we've spent probably a fourth what a used one with 80K miles would cost. Thank goodness it's a 3.5L V6 and not a dreaded 3.6L V6.

[@aislingmairead4939]

Good video, Wizard! Having been very happily in stewardship of my nicely preserved 95 F-150 for 8 years now, I've learned a lot about these old Fords and their EEC systems. The top two things I would urge your customer to get his hands on (if he keeps this truck, and he totally should) would be a factory service manual, and an old Snap-On "Brick" scan tool. Both of these can be had on the cheap, and are very much worth the investment. To be honest, I don't think my truck would be as well maintained or running as great as it is without these vital tools. Also, thanks for making the TB shaft bushings point. My truck has a rare surge that I thought was the IAC by process of elimination, and never gave any pause for concern otherwise. Once it warms up here in the frigid Northeast and the salt is washed away, I'll get to tinkering again and make the ol boy run even better : )

[@kellismith4329]

I agree about the obdI scanner innova code reader,they are a bit cruder info that point you in the directions of issues to narrow down

[@EdwardTilley]

Great video. I really appreciated that test at 13:50. This was great... If your videos were searchable by make & model, and symptom (surging/high idol) - what a great resource that would be.

[@1982MCI]

I’ve often wished that it was possible to search like you described, that would be such a huge help!!

[@bojanmilankovic]

Almost twenty years ago, 19 year old me was given a 1991 7 Series BMW by a family member. While it was a ridiculous car for somebody of that age, it had a lot of problems and it wasn't really anything to brag about. It developed a surging idle and I had to scrap it because of this. I believe the part was called an "idle regulating valve" (but I am not overly mechanically inclined beyond doing my own oil, tires, and alternator) and it was almost $1000 Canadian. That was absolutely not in the budget for me, so off it went. I have fond memories of going to pick up a friend to go for a little drive and it taking me nearly twenty minutes to back out of his driveway because the car would keep idling to redline and stalling on me before I could get it into reverse. It's actually a positive memory because of how ridiculous it was - we were both laughing. Glad this young fella was able to actually get his baby looked at.

[@AaronSmith-kr5yf]

I call that a "paw paw" or "grandpappy" truck. Some old man bought it new in 1990, owned it for 20-25 years, drove it, used it, parked it outside(hence the patina) but took EXCELLENT care of it. Anything broke, he fixed it, notice there is ZERO rust and that body is arrow straight.

[@carmudgeon7478]

I've been stuck drilling out throttle shaft bores and using hobby store brass fuel line as bushings on carbs for a while now. Beats the parts cannon.

[@DJTourniquet]

That is probably a better idea than mine. Now that I think of it, not sure if urethanes are fuel friendly. A backfire might just melt em. Brass is might be harder to get to the right size (I am talking out my ass here, have never done this kind of repair lol), but I think it'll hold up better in that application.

[@SimiNelsonFamily]

I've done the same thing. Our local hardware store stocks bronze bushings that can be cut, drilled/reamed, and/or cut on a lathe to fit. It's a fairly easy repair. I've also considered using hobby store brass tubing.

[@peetky8645]

could spooging some thick plumbers silicone grease into the bushing and shaft hole prevent air leakage? seems like if it can hold back water pressure it would hold atmospheric pressure OK

[@chadwickwhite1889]

Reminds me of my dad's favorite '85 F150 w 351, had some good power for back then.

[@kevinbriem986]

Refreshing to see you willing to old school diagnose. I have several late 80s early 90s mercedes with Ke- jetronic fuel injection that has a lot of integtated parts. And yes, I am guilty of throwing darts in hopes of a cure. Out comes the volt meter and pressure gauges. Its tedious, but most shops dont want to bother with it anymore. Thanks for helping in keeping these classics on the road. Keep up the honest and frank commentary.

[@skinnyflippinpg8652]

Love watching, I'm an ase master for 30yrs. Been doing forklifts and manlifts for 17 yrs. Love showing my kids how we are cut from the same mold. We even look alike. Love the old brick and bull nose ford's. Have ro build one for my daughter. Keep the entertainment coming.

[@danhooper8652]

BBK makes a quality throttle body for the 5.0 I have used in the past with good results.

[@sheldondyck8631]

As a fan of old Ford trucks and the owner of a 1975 F150 Ranger XLT I approve of this video.

[@muskokamike127]

you're sitting on a gold mine right there. How's the body and frame? Unfortunately this was the era where they rotted out very quickly. Same as 70's era chev trucks. The drive trains were bullet proof. You could beat on them like a rented mule and they'd keep running. Guy up the road from me had a 72 chev (trying to remember if it was the 305 or 350, can't recall). I was thinking about putting an offer in at $3000, he was asking $5000. I heard he hadn't sold it and kept driving it. Now 5 yrs later? He's asking $15,000 and I "heard" he got $12,000 for it. No rust on the body or frame.

[@sheldondyck8631]

@@muskokamike127 my truck is about 99% rust free. That's my truck in my profile pic. It was restored around 20 years ago and hasn't been winter driven since. I'll be pulling it out of storage in a few weeks once it warms up a bit more.

[@muskokamike127]

@@sheldondyck8631 ​ @Sheldon Dyck NIIICE. SO many complain about carbs, sure, they can be troublesome at times, but of all the carbed cars I had maybe 10 issues over 25 yrs and a dozen vehicles. I remember rebuilding a 2 bbl with a $5.00 kit on my dad's workbench in the basement. (accelerator pump was worn out so I just rebuilt the whole thing). I remember every spring testing the timing with a gun and having to do the odd tune up. Plugs, condenser, points, rotor, $8.00 and took an hour.

[@sheldondyck8631]

@@muskokamike127 carbs aren't as bad as some people like to make out. If they're not worn out they don't require much attention to run properly. No points or condenser in my truck. It's the dreaded Ford duraspark electronic ignition lol. I've heard lots of bad things about that system but I've never had a problem. And I've owned probably half a dozen dentside Ford trucks. Also, they have the greatest heaters ever :)

[@TheGeekiestGuy]

I was shocked to find a fuel pressure regulator for my D21 pickup IN STOCK from a seller on Amazon. Nobody on the island had one (some places didn't know what part I was looking for). Plus the big parts stores wanted almost $200 for it whereas I paid about $50. Thanks for the content CW. 🤙🏾

[@strangemagic2914]

Mrs. Wizard @ 8:56: "Everything hanging from the ceiling is affected by gravity". PRICELESS! I always enjoy Mrs. Wizards interior evaluations.

[@jasontengan1233]

Thanks Wizard, my 89 Bronco with the 351 is doing the same thing, threw the same parts at it, still irratic idle, never thought of the bushings, now to find another throttle body, thank you sir!

[@jesusdiaz82]

Look on salvage yards maybe you'll find one so you don't pay 500$ bucks for a new Chinese one. There's a Ford explorer with that engine I believe is the last car that came with it.

[@OliverKoolO]

I got a 94 bronco 5.8 same issue fellas. Im thinking the salvage yard also. Aren't there throttle rebuilders?

[@III1IlIIlIllIl]

@@jesusdiaz82 the Explorer had the 4.0 v6. The first 5.0 Explorer was in 96.

[@jesusdiaz82]

@@III1IlIIlIllIl yeap, I think these came out til 2001 or 00, but now I'm remembering that these came with the mustang style intake, gt40p heads and few others mods.

[@peetky8645]

one of the posters mentioned replacing the bushings yourself with brass tubing from the craft store? better than paying 400$ for one

[@DJTourniquet]

There is some shit called q bond. It's a 2 part mix, a liquid and then 1 type of powder for metal, another for plastics/urethanes. I'd pull the bushings, find the worn areas, and try to fill em and file it down. It's pretty tough and fuel/oil resistant if my memory serves me well this day. Otherwise, maybe try and machine down some urethane sway bar link bushings to fit if you can find ones with the right inner diameter. But I'm an idiot, so... big grain of salt lol.

[@alanberner]

I live exactly what you discussed on my 97 F 350 .5.8 . Some times I luck out other times No Go , My neighbor old school retired shop owner , mechanic , A gem of a guy , helps me , Had OB1 Snap On tester , Takes it out , DAMN not working , Screen is dark , He gave it too me , Has all the testing plug ins and instructions for older cars .

[@Rippleshanks]

I have fond memories of that model of f 150. My aunt let me drive hers down a dirt road in Stratford Oklahoma when I was a kid.

[@michaelbloom5342]

#2 MAP sensor. Should read about 110 Hz at idle going to about 140Hz at WOT. Voltage won't tell you anything of value. You have to measure frequency.

[@maxxmich]

they do make OBD1 readers for Ford and Chevy

[@12yearssober]

Chevy only neededa paper clip

[@michealrobinson]

Love it! I got a '88 F-150 custom with the 4.9L I6. It has been hands down the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. A previous owner swapped the old 4 speed with overdrive out and replaced it with the bulletproof C6 3 speed automatic. Very powerful for an old truck.

[@thetooner8203]

I'm dealing with my '91 Chev pickup with the 350 V8, throttle body injection that has been working well since I recently brought it into service then suddenly will turn over happily until the battery runs down but won't start. This video has been a useful reminder of logical elimination of some faults and what possible causes I should be looking at instead of replacing parts one guess at a time until I get lucky. I very much agree with your reasoning on why these old vehicles can be worth spending on - it doesn't so much matter what the market says it's worth if you aren't selling and if you can use the vehicle to get value for what you spent.

[@W1Kilo]

If your customer is up for it, perhaps an Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI system. It is overkill to fix their issue, but it's an option. EDIT: What about adapting a throttle body meant for an LS engine to the Ford EFI or a BBK Performance Throttle Body? I bet availability is still a factor though, but it's worth a shot. Also, it seems the former is the least feesable.

[@michaeltutty1540]

The Ford system works very well indeed. Just a matter of buying the Haynes Manual and putting it into diagnostic mode. Very easy indeed. Been there, done that on multiple Ford's of the era. The FUN was a trio of Grand Marquis all with the 351W, and two with the Trailer Tow III Package. That made for fun, considering they were so rare even Ford mechanics had never heard of one, never mind worked on them

[@1982MCI]

It is an option but remember the owner is a high school student and that option is probly well out of his reach especially when it’s already got a perfectly good system in place already

[@W1Kilo]

​@@1982MCI I know, just throwing it out there. Parts availablablity is ambiguous at best right now in terms of OEM for certain things. As for custom, it's less of an issue.

[@atx-cvpi_99]

If the truck was originally carbureted, yes I would do it. If it’s EFI, leave it alone.

[@W1Kilo]

@@atx-cvpi_99 But that OEM part availablity issue though. I agree, yet present shortages sway me to modestly customize. But hey, it's the kid's truck and I'm just offering a suggestion. An expensive one, but still. I'll look into getting a pro-flo for my van. I hate carborators. Too young to figure it out or care. lol!

[@Lon1001]

For a surging idle, the first part you load into the cannon is always a MAP sensor. And after that doesn't fix it you check the vacuum lines. I thought this was universal knowledge for anyone in the auto tech business.

[@LargeMuscularTitties]

I thought it was universal knowledge in the auto tech business to properly diagnose cars rather than firing the parts cannon. You always want to check for vacuum leaks before condemning a MAP sensor unless it's just a completely dead(open or shorted) sensor.

[@dukeman7595]

I bought new a 1987 inline 300 six with a 4 speed and 4x4 and a 1993 with the same set up.. Both were great trucks with great torque and enough power; did have problems with the dual tank fuel pumps..

[@rob12449]

Original owner of a 92 5.0 which I have struggled with over the years to get running well. It is not easy to figure out and fix. My truck had high idle due to intake manifold gasket. Also several vacuum leaks, the reservoirs rot and very hard to get replacements. The manifold took me years to figure out because I replaced the gasket more than once, it was a manifold not machined right, had to file off a bit from one end! So this was a problem from day one. I've done the parts swaps and chased many hunches from various videos. In fact your words have me ready to try another, yes another MAP sensor. I've finally gotten my idle down to a nice level, like 650 rpm but it is rough. The 32 year old truck, it's like it is not used to a normal idle! I can say if you learn to fix this type of truck consider yourself a mechanic. On the other hand, it has endured many problems and seems to keep running. I recently changed fuel injectors and discovered a loss of fuel rail pressure. It turned out a new injector was stuck open. On and on- war stories. I wish I could bring it to you!

[@unstablebobgable]

The Car Wizards has the coolest walk on KZbin! I'd love to see a continuous loop video of him just waddling around on his stubby little legs with Pantera's WALK as the background music!

[@jeffreyrwilliams9345]

make a GIF

[@rocketscientist007]

Innova has an OBD 1 scanner for $30. Easier than reading CEL flashes. Summit Racing has BBK throttle bodies for $200.

[@dunebasher1971]

The real issue is that OBD1 was not an actual standard. Every different manufacturer used their own unique communication protocol and code ID system. That's why there are no generic OBD1 readers - you need a specific GM one, or a specific Chrysler one, or Ford one, etc.

[@chuckchar]

The $209 are for the Mustang, or single bore throttle body , the trucks have a twin bore with two blades , the BBk ones are $399 for them .

[@stanrussell7613]

@@dunebasher1971 Not true. I had an '86 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4x4 for 15 years. I bought a generic OBD1 scanner for it, it worked well, paid for itself many times over. Sold the truck and the scanner went with it.

[@kindercarcaredetailing4768]

Appreciate your approach, explanation and explaining how you fix and do things Sir. I'm a Professional Detailer but have always loved working on my own vehicles. Been watch several of your videos now and going to be ordering an Amp Hound very soon as well as I know a older snap on franchisee dealer and remember that he had several older Vantage scanners and going to try to get one of him for doing the same thing you used it for on the Mercedes. I've bought a '92 5.0 5-speed GT Mustang and it has a bad parasitic draw as well. Haven't had much time really to work on/too it but in the meantime, you wouldn't believe the tools & diagnostic tools I've bought or getting ready to buy. Just got the EC300 power probe and may get the power probe 4 or hook soon. Also the Lisle tools relay tester shortly as well. I've got a ton of new ICON Tools and bulking up on Lisle tools as well. Again, I appreciate your channel and the way you go about doing your technique of diagnostics, it helps a guy like me out and breaks it down so I can understand how & why your doing things. Thank You Sir... Daniel Kinder

[@strangemagic2914]

I had a '71 455 H.O. Trans Am back in the early '80's that had this same idle issue. An 'ol school mechanic I knew named Ronny suspected a vacuum leak & sprayed WD-40 on the throttle blade area of the 800 CFM Q-Jet carb #7041268 causing an idle change. The local parts store had a new #7041270 800 CFM in stock that I replaced it with - end of problem. Today those same carb's fetch thousand of dollars on eBay. I think I paid maybe a buck fifty for the new one. Those were the days. Great Video Mr. Wizard!