5 ways to Inspect the Transom of your Project Boat, Cheap Race Boat Sleekcraft SST Sunday Update #3

[@EDesigns_FL]

If the hull and deck have been glassed together, it will be a lot of work to separate them. It might be better to cut-out the transom from the inside and install a two piece replacement. An S glass layup would improve the strength of transom.

[@ADDvanced]

Thanks for your input, leaning towards this solution, actually.

[@hblair37]

When stringers are shot that bad you can almost bet on the transom being gone. No big deal. Rare back and knock it out. I enjoy your channel!

[@ADDvanced]

Just not sure how yet.... splashwell delete? Multi piece? Split the hull?

[@hblair37]

@@ADDvanced is the deck bonded to the hull or just screwed behind the rubrail? If screwed I’d take the deck off the hull, if bonded I wonder about standing the hull up on the transom and working on it from above? It’s hard to tell how far under the deck the transom is in the video and if that’s doable. I only have experience on bigger boats. I enjoy your channel keep it up!

[@Performancetimely513]

My hydrostream vegas xt has a splash well delete and had all the core done in foam and i think the splash well delete looks amazing, I have a 500 pound merc v8 300 on it and it holds it very well. I recomend the splash well delete for anyone because the strength increase is immense. It allows you to put really tall knees on the stringers and adds a lot of strength to the transom.

[@ADDvanced]

Did you do the transom in foam too?

[@Performancetimely513]

@@ADDvanced I don't exactly know what the transom has as a friend of mine did it, but i know its really thick and heavy duty, the boat used to have a 400 plus horsepower v8 johnson and it held that good

[@ADDvanced]

@@Performancetimely513 ah. Trying to figure out if I should do mine in foam or ply.

[@Performancetimely513]

@@ADDvanced i would do it in foam because for resale value among others I'd rather buy a boat that's been redone in foam. That's the main reason i went with the boat i did was because i know it was redone properly

[@johnalexander7897]

Pop the deck off and replace that transom, she is worth saving! Enjoying the footage, knowledgeable DIY!

[@sean7193]

7:40 bloody hilarious. I have had that exact reaction to similar shit LOL. cant wait until this is done, I've watched all the episodes. this thing is going to flat out KILLER. super nice job on the transom /stringer rebuild. best I've ever seen online, and making history with the drone stringer install shots for sure ;)

[@Rockin-Roland]

I just replaced my transom with Carbon-Core’s pourable transom. Worked great 7 times stronger than plywood and I had it finished in four days.

[@rumnboats7612]

compressive strength is not what you're after in a transom

[@G.Bear89]

Man... Stoked about coming across your channel. Very real and raw. Looking forward to binging on this series. For the last 11 months I've been rebuilding a small cabin cruiser that snowballed into a giant project as well. Pleased to report it is now back on the water lol. New transom, stringers, floor and cabin.👍

[@ADDvanced]

New cabin too?! Wow! Sounds awesome tho! I love how relatively simple boat restoration is compared to rotted out cars and floor pan replacements and suspension mounts being rotten, etc.

[@G.Bear89]

@@ADDvanced Simple is what I understand best 👍

[@ES-xc6fk]

I know I will be doing stringers and transom on most of my projects. Very interested to see where you go with it.

[@steven6692]

We used the foam for the transom of the flat fishing boat Dolfin and also for my personal boat and Contender also uses the foam....a lot of engineering goes into this two boats i just mention and yes...the foam flexes with three four or six engines hanging...but won't break....you may choose materials like epoxy to bond wood etc but...you can also choose to mix cabozil with fiberglass resin to form a less expensive way of bonding and cut down on expenses...you have choices...cheers!

[@R33F3RMONSTER]

Just found your channel, awesome content! Got me inspired! I've always thought about building a kit boat, but restoring one of these seems way cooler!

[@ADDvanced]

Just takes time and effort; money wise they are pretty cheap to redo! No rust, no suspension, no glass, barely any trim, etc. Good luck man !

[@lukeb1189]

Just thinkin about the time involvement wrapped up in splitting the hull and repairing any issues that pop up along the way from that seems like a huge turn off. I would opt for a nice thick 2 piece transom and reinforce/integrate the transom, the mounting points for that brace for the jack plate, and the stringer into some sort of 3-D structure under the splash well. Tying all of those together to improve rigidity and reusing the aluminum brace should be super sturdy and let you hang anything under a 300 off the back and never have to worry about the transom again. I think a ton of strength in the transom could be achieved with triangulating bracing from the upper and lower transom into the stringer and other structural points and eliminating the strength difference from a single piece transom. I also think this would put you on a route to be able to get the boat in the water (interior or not) this summer which would be some nice motivation for the seats. Good luck!

[@ADDvanced]

We are on the same page; but a multi piece wasn't possible. Check out the new episode to see why.

[@rabid_monkey8714]

Personally, I'd save splitting the hull as a very last resort. Screwed or glassed, I'll bet money there's going to be an adhesive holding them together along the entire seam. I doubt screws alone would have been enough to keep the hull bonded as a race race boat. If it were my boat, I'd attack it from the aft skin: leave a lip around the entire transom area and cut the aft skin out, saving it for a reference piece. From there you'll have access to the entire rotten mess to clean out and assess whether to use coosa, ply, or whatever for the replacement core. Once replaced, it's a relatively small area to re-glass and smooth out. This option will also give you another access point to help tab in the aft end of the new stringers to the hull bottom. Next best option for me would be a splashwell delete but if you're going to reuse that monster engine mount (which looks kinda cool, but I agree the mount plate needs to match the other side) that may not be a great option. Whatever you decide, I'm really digging your vids. Keep up the great content.

[@ADDvanced]

Thanks for the input! I'm still undecided. As of this moment, I'm leaning towards a multi piece transom, and not cutting anything. I've been reading about guys doing a thin layered transom, mabye 3/8 plywood, 3 layers thick, with the seam moving around between the layers. So one layer would have the seam a bit higher, then glass it in, then do another layer where the seam is in a different location, then glass it in, then another layer with the seam in a different location, then glass it in. Make sense?

[@rabid_monkey8714]

​@@ADDvanced Sure, that makes perfect sense! I can't wait to see the project as it shakes out.

[@baenkt]

I would use a good plywood 8 days a week. Easy to work with and cheap. Done right it will last the lifetime of the boat. Splash well delete is probably the easy way to go. When i did it i keept about 2 inches of the well. Had a Optimax 225 on a lift, more or less like you.

[@ADDvanced]

Yeah, would definitely work, I'm just wondering about the benefits of cutting a lot fo weight out of the two heaviest parts of the boat. Tempting.

[@baenkt]

@@ADDvanced high density divynicell, which is what you need, is not that much lighter than plywood. Especially birch plywood. Focus the weight reduction to the front of the boat. The rear matters a lot less, in my experience. The middle stringer you could make hollow. Use a piece of wood as a form and build up a few layers of glass. Fit the stringer to the bottom, glass it in and build enough layers to get the strength you want. This is one of my projects. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2aTpmWCnrKIm5Y With "some" rigging and a 2foot extension/bracket I managed to eek out an extra 15mph with the same engine. By moving the weight back I could lift the front without excessive trimming. A 10 kg anchor in the front compartment made a huge difference in top speed. Almost a 10 mph difference! So where your weight is can be more important than the overall weight.

[@sebastiend.5335]

Very satisfying! (I mean the old wood coming out! Not the poor fiber condition...) Looks like a top split over its entire length is going to be the best long term solution. But what do I know, I am car and bike racer who's only sailed on Dutch waters so far. No power boats have crossed my path as of yet... ;)

[@froggerman44]

May be u need to do what I did, where the transom is on the top, cut the cap off, carefully as to re glass it on when done, use a chainsaw to core the plywood out between the two fiberglass skins, inner and outer. Then template the shape of the transom from the outside, use cardboard, make to fit. Get marine plywood, that boat is how old, new plywood will last just as long or longer. Glass the plywood, slide into transom, may need to smack it in, mix resin, pour around plywood and clamp to dry. Glass cap on and done.

[@sethgabbard7705]

Hey thanks for the video man! I’m picking up an old fiberglass boat so I appreciate the video. I would go with option 1. I would use cusoua board. It’s pricey though!

[@jaycraig6177]

Love the boat work man !

[@troypost4033]

Back in my army days we had new private test for soft spots on the side of armored vehicles the same method. Told them to circle the soft spots. There were circles all over the place. There were no soft spots just hazing.

[@ADDvanced]

haha, nice!

[@douglasposey5994]

I remember many years ago seeing several of those boats with major cracks at the top of the transom. I question if someone installed the braces when the boat was new because of the known weaknesses in the transom

[@dukenukem5753]

Seperate the cap from the hull cut out the transome that's what i did. Remove the rub rail drill out the rivits. Transom and and splash well will be glued togther that will need to be dissected.

[@jamesbrezai6711]

we just finished our glastron bass boat did the transom with cusa board and also the floor it's the best way to go super solid easy to work with but kinda expensive pretty much if you any rotten wood it's mostly all bad

[@ADDvanced]

Where did you get the Coosa tho? I can't find anyone in the midwest that carries it.

[@jamesbrezai6711]

@@ADDvanced REV CHEM distributors we live in Oregon

[@ADDvanced]

@@jamesbrezai6711 Shipping across the country would be murder on 4x8 panels.

[@ajmcgavic7502]

Just found your channel this boat is amazing keep up the good work bud

[@ADDvanced]

Thanks 👍

[@Carfreak200.]

Id be curious to know if the condition of the Gelcoat is good enough to justify splitting the boat in half. Lol. Because if you are going to do it. I think you need to do it right

[@michaeldanielallen]

You could consider doing a SeaCast transom? Might be a tad pricey, but all you do it cut the top of the transom a bit pull all the old rotten shit out and fill it up. No climbing in and rebuilding all that inner wall material. Also you don't have to cut the whole boat in half.

[@ADDvanced]

That would require a ton of holes all over the top of the cap.... not desirable. For boats with a more simple construction/design, it makes sense ,but not for something like this.

[@michaeldanielallen]

@@ADDvanced I'm happy to see you changed your mind. I love the SeaCast transom idea with coosa stringers.

[@edwardkey6185]

Amazzing new sub this is great 👍

[@ADDvanced]

Thanks for subbing! Lmk what you want to see more of.

[@steveadams4009]

Can you pour the transom after you clean it out?

[@benbirkigt493]

Check out Dura bond for transom repair its 50 times stronger then wood i used it on my transom and it worked great its 300 bucks for 5 gallons with shipping its way better then seacast for sure.

[@AnticipatedHedgehog]

Replace the transom! Will make for good content, not sure what method to complete that task is. But either way choose the strongest method, which probably will be the biggest pain in the butt.

[@ADDvanced]

It's happening!

[@KHerringtonc16]

u should use the marine foam! i bet it'll come out better then new!

[@jompisv8]

Pop the deck off 👌

[@bertrandliang9490]

So sorry it turned out to be less than ideal. If you decide to replace the transom it will dominate like the 911 did. I’d opt for better more modern materials like foam though. But others are much more informed than me.

[@sparrow082]

I would think the top deck would only needs to come up a couple of 3 in. Once you get the back split and start working your way towards the front, the deck should Flex enough to clear the top of the transom.

[@ADDvanced]

Possibly, would suck to make a bunch of stress cracks on the gel tho. Maybe.

[@sparrow082]

@@ADDvanced Sand off the gelcoat at the midship and then bed in Chrome plated step rails.?

[@loveoldcarsguy]

Pop the top off! Its the only way. Good boat,dont get lazy,its the only way.Coozy it. Been there,done that.😃

[@kasenjumps]

I need a 24 pack, i just got a bass boat on my birthday from my parents friends at least it was living in a garage from the sun but soon as i got done power washing saw how bad the wood was. Started poking it with a screw I found and every bit of the hull/transmission wood exposed was beyond rotten but the motor starts up fine and needs a water impeller sounds sweet but god the damn wood just couldn’t have last a bit longer I’ll make her my baby boat though and bitcch” her around with a 200 from a 70 when I reinforce it

[@1972mdc]

Coosa (or similar)…all that time it isn’t much of a saving vs marine ply and it’s lighter and stronger

[@bigdaddykeithcarter1624]

isn't the deck riveted on, get a case of beer, order 100 dollars of hot wings and invite 5 or 6 buddies over to help pop the deck off, then you can go to town on reconstruction, when it's time to put it back on, same deal

[@jonathanelliott8362]

Foam foam foam please don't make it hard for the owner in the future because we had done a restore on my raceboat which was a barn find and removed 10 kg of rotten wood although that doesn't sound like much the boat runs 30hp outboard so it makes a difference

[@ADDvanced]

I'm leaning towards foam but some engineers are telling me it doesn't bond as well.

[@novoiperkele]

9:27 wifey knows. She is awesome

[@ZeroFoxGarage]

I’d love to know what products to use on a large (44inx5inx10.5in) motor mount stringer. Currently I have both dug out and the original fiberglass shell’s in place. I am just unsure of the next step and what materials to use.

[@ADDvanced]

Pics? Sounds gigantic.....

[@ZeroFoxGarage]

@@ADDvanced I can send pics, do you have a email?

[@bigdaddykeithcarter1624]

enjoying seeing a real master at work, I would have sprayed charcoal starter fluid on it and roasted weiners, and marshmallows

[@PowellRoadDIY]

Use cosa board and take the top off.

[@Kettenhund75]

Completely new to boat building/repair - but got a question. Had the stringer been glassed all the way forward, would this stringer have ever rotted? Was this just an oversight from the builder?

[@ADDvanced]

If wood is COMPLETELY encapsulated by resin, it should theoretically never rot. Technically, fiberglass resin does allow a miniscule amount of moisture transfer, but the boat would have to stay in the water for years. So yeah... Sleekcraft cheaped out and just glassed some tabs over it, and shot it out the door. Once you get moisture into the wood, it's challenging to get it out.

[@duramaxklem1491]

Tin smith hammer badass!

[@ADDvanced]

It was my grandpas, who worked sheet metal for long time. It's been well loved :D

[@angelanelajuly2961]

If the stringer is rotten I always find a bad transom. If found entire boats eaten by termites from one screw hole left open.

[@dewholdingsllc1050]

Yes most boat restoration work requires the top cap to be removed.

[@ADDvanced]

Not set up for that

[@chrisrothstein7504]

Did you ad any new content lately?

[@ADDvanced]

I've been uploading a new sleek video every sunday for the past few months, I'm on episode 12 now

[@TheZmt325]

What about a pour in transom?

[@ADDvanced]

Wound up being more expensive

[@TheZmt325]

Great series man. Subbed.

[@stevekneebone3802]

Why not cut the outside of the transom to make the repair? Would be easier than trying to take the deck off the boat.

[@ADDvanced]

Doing neither approach, but definitely butchering some things.

[@algonzalez8798]

multi piece Coosa, glass.

[@jamiiagulli6722]

$500! Isn't that Jack Plate worth that? Besides the trailer also

[@ADDvanced]

That’s why I bought it.

[@angelanelajuly2961]

Oh, no big block V8. Outboard boat. Cool,

[@robertottwell605]

Check out born again boating on KZbin. I have learned a lot about rot repair from these guys. Also look into penetrating epoxy.

[@donarmstrong3]

Fix it

[@ADDvanced]

In progress!

[@donarmstrong3]

@@ADDvanced I am watching. Watched just about all the boat videos. Great content! You two are great to watch.

[@ADDvanced]

Thanks man! Appreciate it!