Fasterclass: Motorcycle Suspension Revalve & Respring

[@catalystreactionsbw]

As a general comment, progressive springs are great for the street, not for the track. Think of them as trampolines - the more energy you put into them the more they store. Then you cannot get rebound damping right as the energy release is constantly varying. Changing to linear springs (one set rate) helps you set rebound correctly to the spring rate and then make small modifications to rebound as the oil ages.

[@mosesjonathan1240]

i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!

[@mosesjonathan1240]

@Tate Valentino I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@mosesjonathan1240]

@Tate Valentino it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thanks so much you really help me out!

[@tatevalentino9331]

@Moses Jonathan No problem :D

[@zealobiron]

Most people can't tell the difference anyway. The people that can don't need this video.

[@StevePhillips76]

So much gold here. I'm excited to get into my forks this coming winter, New springs, heavier oil....maybe even emulators! Thanks Dave!

[@XtremeCoke]

what a guy with knowleadge... I learn track riding from R6 then onto MY16 RSV4 RF now MY18 RF, his investiment chart demonstrated exactly what i have done.... Minor comment to ontribute is that moving from MY16 to MY18 RSV4, there is an upgrade on the shock linkage which greatly improve the corner exit but that means back to drawing board to get new suspension tuned and a new set of data....

[@amonkril919]

He may know his stuff but I don't understand him at all. His suspension sag explanations were awful...I hate to say it.

[@harrybrown4815]

Always get good information from Dave! Even when it is something already known about it always good to hear it afresh and jog the old grey matter into thinking about these areas anew.

[@aaahillshandyman..bellavis864]

Dave, Appreciate you sharing your many years of knowledge.

[@dougfreeman3229]

Good communication of the concept. One area not mentioned is what if you are outside the "rider design parameters" used by OEM's. OEM's must decide on a target rider weight (and aggression level) to design for. There are quite a few of us over 220 lbs, which overwhelms the suspension on most bikes. At 265 lbs I have to fix suspension before I can safely ride most bikes with any aggression, so the spike occurs immediately.

[@outquick]

I prefer naked bikes, they all need full suspension. But this "average street ride" love finding u track kids n showing yall how to ride. 🐉🇱🇷locals💪🏼🇱🇷🐉

[@outquick]

Cant wait to get rid of this 2021 R-1 with 475 miles on it. I should have got a MT-07 or GSX-S750 or 1000. N took to my suspension/mod shop. Dropped $4000 in modz n beat everyone. But i didnt know what a rocket is like, so i got the best for the mountains, not the fastest bike, but smooth af . Still fells like a tanks compared to the nakeds, in the constant twisties I riden solo for 10 years, only 🐉here🐉 WATCH GSX-S1000 killin it videos 1-3 n get back to me, ill go race 4 u. My GSX-R-1000R buddy is x nat champ with suzuki. He beats me yea but 20 year riders get ghosted by this "average street rider"

[@jenpsakiscousin4589]

No we little guys figured it out and tuned suspension also. Before race tech came out and pro circuit and fox reworked suspension the old motocross tuners used to ad shins. Drill bleed holes, add preload spacers ECT.

[@justaguy4real]

9:20 I'm here and I've already learned so much that I've always wondered about. Great videos Dave

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you!

[@alanbrown5593]

Thank you for another interesting and informative video. Whilst I agree with Dave "the diver" to an extent about properly adjustable suspension having an effect on riding abilities/standards. If not more importantly was Radial tyres which now actually gripped. When you consider that even sports/touring tyres (note correct spelling) grip as well as race tyres of 10 years ago.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Agree completely. I would even argue suspension has plateaued (around 2009), while tire development has continued feverishly. And, of course, the electronics. But electronic controlled suspension is nowhere near ready for race time. None of it can cope with race pace, and it won't until racing rules change to allow it. Until then it will just be a shiny object to sell bikes.

[@easy2squeeze]

This explains the reasoning for the rebuild/“going in” very well to me. It’s a great compliment to the “pump and run video. Thanks again Dave.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for watching and leveraging the content!

[@easy2squeeze]

Outstanding

[@6Twisted]

2022 WR450. Compression all the way out and I'm only using 40% of the travel. I'm in agony after a days trail riding 😅

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Then clean and lube the shock threads and remove 4-6 complete turns of preload. Next, check your rebound setting as that can create substantial pain of it is set wrong.

[@justaguy4real]

5:00 in your opinion what's the best way and approach to learn a bike? Adjust the suspension how and differently.?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

1. Set sag and understand spring tension to travel used 2. Set rebound to understand chassis balance 3. Set compression to understand the setting you need for bump compliance.

[@akiga3258]

I had the same issue smoothing out "hellk", i fixed it by saying "the f*ck " and never looked back :) so smooth... Great videos!

[@wayneboyd2682]

Excellent video, thanks for bringing all the incredible content and knowledge to KZbin. With your experience with the '19 ZX6R, what suspension upgrades would you recommend for my 2019 ZX6R. I am 230 lbs. and ride on the street but plan to start doing track days.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for the kind words Wade. The honest answer is $$$. How much do you have? In this order, spend your hard earned money correctly as you can afford it with your stock suspension: 10w fork oil, 100nm/mm shock spring, 1.05nm/mm fork spring, fork revalve, shock revalve

[@suipful]

a video on a normal persons suspension query and the technical (actual) view point... eg; the shock is soft on city roads (normal person) the suspension is oversprung and under damped (technical view point)..... the most common words used and what it means in technicality or vice versa of the same..

[@Cthooligan]

Yet another awesome video Dave. Thanks to you I now know I have an FZ-07 with zero static sag due to non adjustable front forks with spacers 10mm too long, fork oil 5w too light, and springs rated about .5kg too heavy for my weight but not enough mechanical ability to do a damn thing about it lol. Keep up the great work!

[@aurelianliviumorarmoldovan5622]

I have a 2015 BMW S1000RR and I would like to adjust the suspension, the way of riding the motorcycle and the controls for a more pleasant ride because the truth is that I cannot enjoy the motorcycle because I know that the controls are not right. adjusted and neither are the suspension and braking parameters. Please give me a hand

[@jhedges19]

This is exactly my situation, your the best!

[@DearMajesty]

Ideally should compression be mostly used to adjust weight transfer to the front tire? Adjusting compression to compensate for bottoming seems like a band-aid solution for springs that are just too soft. Is this correct thinking?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Compression tuning is for feel, feedback, managing the final 5-7mm of travel if you want to work in that zone so close to bottom. Clearly compression being adjusted and bottom out being reached means a substantial change in preload, but a small change can yield some significant results. So, test, see what makes a difference and then retest until you find the balance of preload and compression that keeps the fork action ahead of you allowing you to continue to improve.

[@DearMajesty]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you!

[@Bryanj2222]

I recently set my forks and shock ( stock 2019 zx 6r) to my weight. I went for 30mm in the front and rear. I am concerned about the rear shock though. There is 2mm of static sag and after I got the difference from fully extended shock to my weight to be 30mm, that took about 70-80% of the preload to get to it. My weight is about 230lbs with full gear. I am new to riding and have never felt a tuned suspension. I got so much confidence in my bike after tuning the suspension that my speed picked up in the twisties (rt 20 between Fort Bragg and Willits) and I ended up getting a hefty speeding ticket (xD). I would like to take my bike to a suspension specialist and I was hoping you had a recommendation around the Willits area or maybe you own a shop? Would you recommend the rear shock's spring be replaced?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I do not know Willits area well but any dirt bike shop can install the piston and spring. Contact Breesa at GP Suspension in Oxnard and they will sip the parts to you. [phone]

[@nigelwolfe6150]

Why doesnt offroad motorcycle suspension feature active rear shock that instantly adjusts if front forks take big hit?? In fact why not have some kind of laser camera sensor setup full time looking in front of the motorcycle measuring the heights and depth of any upcoming obstacles to an ecu that would factor in current speed and automatically lightening quick adjust the damping? Maybe even cut the ignition and throttle if what it senses might be catastrophic?? I know this would have been a ridiculously expensive proposition not many years ago but today?? Mass produced I really dont see it being too expensive at all ....so what if it were an extra $1000? Suspension COULD be made with a really wide range of damping adjustment leaving most of the tuning to various map and ecu options....I would think that EVEN the spring portion could come OEM as light as ever needed and then be bolstered with air spring assist which could be adjusted on the fly? Add some heavy adventure gear or change riders? Everything adjusts accordingly! If not totally automatically then maybe mostly automatic after entering simple changes manually as to what current intentions are etc.....

[@JoaoFerreira-qj4zp]

I'm a rokie....Why should the damping be close to the midle?? If I find my optimal compression or rebound is 20% of maximum, why do I need to revalve? The ajuster isn't there for that, adjust? I would see the poin't if you said....let's see 5% or 10% because you are to close to the limit and would make sense i guess, but 25% 30%? Isn't that reasonable? Thanks a lot, greats vids

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The goal is to have a range. If 20% to maximum is where you are now, as the oil ages out you will need to service. Sightly more viscous oil will give you better range of adjustment. As per your statement, if you are at 20% with fresh oil and no revalve you just service oil more frequently.

[@magazine2323]

Dave. Is this bike sag rider sag rule for progressive springs or all springs? My zx14r weights 270 kg so 135kg per wheel more less. I weight 95kg so extra 47kg per wheel. You are saying that 47kg should compress the spring twice as much as 135kg? I can't logically understand why.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

It is for all motorcycles. Start at 30% of total travel and set compression at 50% of the total range. Ride as you always do and assess fork and shock travel. Adjust preload as needed to get optimal travel.

[@magazine2323]

Thank you for clarifying. I have been watching your videos recently and I learned a lot of useful information. Respect.

[@kingbee1971]

So never be aggressive and save thousands on aftermarket parts, got it.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If that is how you see it, sure! In essence, figure out what you need to make it right for you today by gathering data and then get the best ROI you can for the $$ spent.

[@bagasdhardanu]

Can't believe this is free 😂

[@Bikeadelic]

So useful. Deserve more subs

[@f18a]

Excellent video. However, the "level of investment" graph (2:00-7:00) makes little sense to me.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Since the graph was my idea, I'll explain. Typical increase on both axes, from bottom to top and left to right. Every bike starts 0,0 with no suspension investment at a commuting-to-work level of riding aggression. As your level of riding aggression increases (left to right) you will require some investment in better suspension bits to cope (bottom to top). With a Ninja 400 it takes very little aggression beyond commuting before you exceed the stock suspension's capability and need to upgrade it. The MT-10 has fully adjustable suspension so it will tolerate far more aggressive riding before suspension upgrades are needed. An RSV4 RF has some of the best stock suspension bits ever offered. Max Biaggi could qualify for a WSBK race with the stock suspension bits. To get on the box he'd have to upgrade. With a Ninja 400, all the suspension bits are all so crappy you have to replace everything at once, so it's a straight line up. With the RSV4, some bits are better than others, so the valving will still cope at a level where the springs will fail you. Hence the gradual climb of the curve.

[@f18a]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for your detailed reply, Dave. I understand the concepts and follow your logic. I have no qualms whatsoever with that. It's just that the axes on the graph are nebulous, and trying to stick widely dissimilar bikes (and presumably riders) on them seems more distracting than illuminating. But I'm a data geek so maybe I'm overcritical in this context. (BTW, you guys helped me once or twice at Thunderhill during Keigwin events.)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@f18a Williams again here. No worries. I greatly appreciate your feedback. Like Sesame Street, we'll do another video in the future on the same topic and your feedback will help us do it better.

[@f18a]

@@catalystreactionsbw Cool.

[@dmitriyvlasov9130]

Hi Dave. Thank you for sharing information! It helps me to understand, how the suspension works and what changes does it takes to go faster. I ride 60% of time at gymkhana, 20% training at gokart track(no big tracks near 1500km) and 20% at street. I got GSX-R 750 K5 with stock rear shock(for now) and forks(stock internals) from K6 1000cc. I'm considering to by a K-tech front fork piston kit, but there are two types: SSRK(for track use) and SSK(road and track use). Does it make sense to use racing only components? At some competitions we have realy bumpy asphalt and some good.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Dmitriy. Thank you for the email. Due to generally lower speeds from technical riding the SSK kit will work very well. The SSRK kit requires high speed and a lot of force to open the valving.

[@dmitriyvlasov9130]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you so much for the reply!

[@Iltpgs]

Could you please go further in depth how a stiffer spring adds static and a softer spring takes away static

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you target sag is static and rider total combined is 40mm and to get that you lose all free sag by having to compress the spring in place considerably, the spring is too soft so you need to go to a firmer spring. If static sag is 10-15mm with rider sag of 25-30mm for a total around 40mm, the spring is correct.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Chiming in with my 2 cents worth. What has happened in his example is a scenario where you'd have too much total sag, and as you add preload to hit your target you lose all the static in the process; something like 15mm of static plus 40mm of rider for a total sag of 55mm. So you add preload in your quest for 40mm total; let's say you add 4 turns. You sit on the bike and, bingo, 40mm. Job done. But when you get off the bike you find you now have no static sag; zero. So you remove a turn of preload to get some back, but now you're up over 45mm total. No matter what you try, you find the only way to get 40mm total sag is to have zero static sag because you've got to crunch the spring down so hard with preload. When you get a firmer/stiffer spring it will require less preload to achieve the 40mm target and thus allow some "space" for static sag in the equation. For example, 4 turns of preload (out of 10 possible) might give you 15mm of static and 25mm of rider. The stiffer spring has "added" static because you don't have to compress it so much with preload to achieve your total sag target.

[@Iltpgs]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you very much for the replies. I work at a shop and my boss (working for 30 years) assumed as much but stated that was the only scenario in which that would work but it wasn't in the video.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@Iltpgs Dave Williams, editor, replying again. And thank you for taking the time to elevate the conversation with an excellent question. We (Moss and I) suffer from the Curse of Knowledge where suspension is concerned. We can forget salient points like that because we're immersed in this stuff so much of the time.

[@Bredaxe]

Thank goodness for adjustable suspension, and DAMN YOU adjustable suspension! LoL

[@alotl1kevegas860]

Would you suggest the 30mm ohlin cartridges over the 25mm?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Both work very well. I preferred the 25mm set until the revised 30mm kit came out, now they work as good as each other. GP Suspension's cartridges (Oxnard CA) are on par as well.

[@matt3122]

I have a 2014 Yamaha WR250R. I was dumb and I turned the compression dampening all the way clockwise. It was like 30 clicks. Someone said that can damage a valve. Do you think so? Is my fork going to be alright?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

You were not dumb at all - you were making a positive difference! If you turned the screw all the way clockwise and it stopped, there's no damage. If you tried to get more clicks aggressively, you may have damaged the needle bit I think that is unlikely. If you turn the screw to maximum in either direction, always come 1 click back the other way.

[@Michael-xs7rz]

Hi Dave, I currently own a 2014 Yamaha R6. I mostly do street/Canyon riding with the occasional track day every blue moon. What would be the best path for my stock suspension components without breaking the bank? Thank!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Michael. In this order, GP Suspension or other piston kit for the rear shock asap. #2 Fork compression piston revalve. #3 Geometry

[@1700beny]

What do you mean by "The level of aggression" ? I'm disappointed

[@catalystreactionsbw]

What are your goals? Get there slowly or focus on them very intently for measured progress every time out? Do you want to go from touring to track? Do you want to go from track to race? How quickly do you want to succeed = $$ outlay.

[@qtechgr]

Re-valve or go for a thicker oil from 15W to 25W ??

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Oil is 15, 20, 30w that you can buy. If you are mixing 75% heavier oil, 25% lighter oil. If you are going over 20w, revalve.

[@josea.justiniano3329]

How about old bikes like Yamaha RD 350 1974?

[@YAMR1M]

Just a question.... Static sag... 20mm static and 10mm rider... How heavy would the bike need to be to sag that much and how how would the rider only add 10mm of sag as he would be putting more weight into the rear than the weight of the bike alone as you can see from a correctly set up bike using 10mm static and 25mm rider. If the spring is too hard there would be zero or close to zero sag and less than 20mm rider sag surely. I think you have the soft and too hard spring static sag the wrong way around... surely.. You seem to be mixing up the soft and hard static for the rear shock. Unless you can explain why I am wrong.... I have a bike here with almost zero static sag and 5mm with rider. Someone fitted a shock for the wrong bike after an ebay purchase of a £1400 rear shock simply because it said Aprilia. That spring is way too hard obviously but it has minimal sag regardless of static or rider. That shock has to be removed and sold off as the manufacturer does not have a 60 or 65N/mm spring in a fitment for that shock.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I would say it is a question of perspective. 20mm static and 10mm rider would show that the shock spring is far too hard as the rider cannot compress it beyond the static sag number. Zero mm static and 50mm would show the spring is too soft as you have to lose all static sag to get something close to the 30-40mm range. Does that provide a different perspective that has rationality?

[@YAMR1M]

@@catalystreactionsbw still does not make sense. The bike is whatever weight it is. static sag is always less than rider sag. So for a spring to be too hard the static sag will be very low and so would the rider sag. The spring rate is Kg/mm or N/mm so that is usually linear so for a 20mm static sag there has to be double the weight (in basic terms) of the rider acting on it. Now if you said that on a stock bike with 20mm static sag (they know what they are doing for road use at least) and with a rider it has 10mm of sag it is too hard and if it then has 40mm of sag its too soft I sag get that. But in no case would static be more than rider unless the spring is too soft not too hard unless you have sat a child on the bike for the rider sag. If you said yes you got the static the wrong way round I can get that. But if people take this as gospel then they will be getting things mixed up and its just not correct. Sorry.. I don't have a channel that sells my services or sell suspension parts so its me being awkward for any reason apart from this is just not correct (unless you have a specific example to show and I am wrong). I have done a little bit of suspension work and ridden a little. Road legal Suzuki GSXR600 Nurburgring lap record breaking bike I built for Fast Bikes magazine. Raced 250cc and 350cc Yamaha LC's and TZ's including European Championship wild card entry on a factory Yamaha TZ250. Currently doing work for BSB and have worked in WSBK and Moto GP as an engineer. I may have made a mistake but I just don't see how.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@YAMR1M Thanks for your comprehensive POV based on your engineering background. For me 90% of the work I do is street bike set up with OEM equipment, so getting them started on their journey is my goal. To that end my explanation works and gives Joe rider a very simple starting point in layman's terms.If I fail at that level, they do not want to nor go any further seeking more information. Therefore explanations I use do not fit your engineering frame of reference when applied to the national and world levels so my methodology fails in your eyes and way of thinking. I am fine with that line of thinking and appreciate you taking the time to share in detail why you are right.

[@YAMR1M]

@@catalystreactionsbw I just think your analogy of the static sag is the wrong way round. The rider sag is sound but the static figures you use would have been better if ALL the static sag numbers had been the same as you said you deal with OEM products for customers for the guide and I know of no OEM shock being that far off even when worn and tired. I am currently going through the same problem with a customer who bought one of my Carbon monocoque seat/tank kits which make a big difference to static sag anyway as the whole monocoque is 3.5kg and fully self supporting. The bike was 162Kg dry and is now 105KG wet but NO FUEL. He purchased a shock, without advice, that has a 120N/mm spring fitted when the original equipment one was 60N/mm. The bike has ZERO static sag. It has 5mm rider sag. He made a massive mistake and while looking at information on the KTech DDS Pro rear shock your video came up and I was going to send him the link but it would have confused the issue even though it is obvious the spring IS WAY too hard, he has zero knowledge so this video would have just confused him more.

[@Daschickenify]

@@YAMR1M Old comment chain, but I figured I would pitch in. The reason you can get more static sag with a stiffer spring is that you can run less preload with it. Until the preload force is overcome, it will not move at all (which is what happens when you have zero static). It is also possible that a stiffer spring will end you up with both less rider and static sag, as I have experienced below. I did a rear shock swap on my MC19 and swapped in a CBR 600F3 rear shock. The stock shock on my CBR had a 16.0 kg/mm shock spring, and the 600 shock has a 13.9 kg/mm spring. When I set it up to get 35mm of total sag with me on it, it had zero static sag. I started the preload at the minimum, so couldn't go any lower. This is where you can get into trouble with a stiffer spring. All else equal, if I just put a stiffer spring in it that is the same length also at minimum preload, I will end up with less total sag, AND if I had any static sag, that would be reduced as well. As a fellow engineer, here are my calculations. The CBR 600 spring is 143mm long, 13.9 kg/mm rate, and when installed in the shock at minimum preload setting, it is compressed to 129.6mm. So, at the minimum preload setting, the stock spring is compressed by 13.4mm. Multiply that 13.4mm by the spring rate of 13.9 kg/mm, cancel out the units, and you get a preload force of 186 kg. So until the shock sees 186kg pushing against it, it won't move. The bike alone does not exert that force, so it has zero static sag. I went ahead and bought a stiffer shock spring, a 16.0 kg/mm spring to match the stock one. The spring ended up not only longer than the original spring as advertised, but it was also 3mm longer than advertised too. This new spring is 148mm long, 5mm longer than the stock 600 spring, while also being a stiffer rate. I was already at minimum preload, so I can't reduce preload to get any static, and in fact I have even more preload due to the spring being longer. This stiffer spring lead to me having 25mm of sag now, while still having zero static. This 148mm spring compressed to 129.6mm when installed produces a preload force of 294 kg, a good deal more preload than the stock spring's 186 kg. Even if the spring was the same length at 143mm, it still would have more preload force and thus less total and static sag. So again, the way you get static sag back is to reduce preload. As above, the stock spring hit my desired sag with zero static sag. I could grind down the preload adjuster or shorten the spring (by cutting/grinding, NOT disabling coils) to reduce the installed preload and get some static sag back, but then I would be at maybe 40mm+ of total sag. Using my numbers above, lets just pretend for a second that I did have 5mm of static and 35mm total sag with the stock spring. If I shortened the stiffer spring to exactly match the preload force of the stock spring when installed, I could keep that exact same 5mm of static, while reducing the total sag to something like maybe 30mm? Flipping it the other way around, I want to keep the total sag the same, while increasing static sag, and the way to do that is to reduce preload with a stiffer spring. Make sense? If I had measurements of the spring length when compressed with a rider, I could then easily calculate exactly how much the stiffer spring needed to be shortened to achieve the same rider sag. And if I had a fancy load cell to mount where the shock goes, I could calculate the force being exerted by the bike alone and calculate what the static sag would be, but I don't have all that.

[@Angel-HC]

I'm going through the suspension on my FZ6 currently. I'm a heavier rider at ~250 lbs and the stock equipment is definitely not matched to that. Thankfully older R6 forks that are fully adjustable are a direct swap to the FZ6 triple clamp and my 09 already has the same brakes so no extra cost there. I'm taking it a step further by having them resprung and valved for my weight since I'm going through all this trouble. That leaves me at what to do for the rear. It's preload adjustable only, but only has seven settings and no damping adjustment. I'm weighing all the aftermarket options from Ohlins, Penske, Wilbers. With Wilbers, I can get a rebound/preload adjustable shock for $500. If I want hi/lo compression adj, it's an additional $200. Would you feel that extra cost is justified for a strictly street/canyon bike or am I best off saving that extra money and just making sure the spring and preload setting is appropriate for my weight?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Angel. Great work on the fork conversion. Very popular! Rear shock should be preload and rebound minimum. For $200 more, compression control would be worth every penny IMHO.

[@Angel-HC]

@@catalystreactionsbw I appreciate the reply! In that case, I'll budget the extra money to have compression adjustment as well.

[@beholderlt]

interesting when a 'trailer' is 18 minutes

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Yep, blew that one. Uploaded the wrong file. Oh well, what's done is done.

[@jordan9339]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you, sir!

[@rndll7852]

Muy informativo

[@motorrat3762]

What should you do in a situation where you have correct spring rate and preload for your weight according to the sag measurements (track) but you are bottoming out?? Should you add compression or preload or go to a stiffer spring? Doesn't adding preload or changing a stiffer spring ruin the sag numbers? Or is this case even possible??

[@motorrat3762]

Here is a very good video from DMT but it doesn't answer the sag question. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5zVlayOgrSBkJY

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you have OEM springs and are in the last 25% of adjustment (ie: 75-100% range) for compression and preload, new springs are needed. If they are progressive springs, acquire the correct rate that will be just slightly too stiff on sag numbers initially but will allow you to improve over 2-3 years. Also think about increasing oil level to leverage air spring effect.

[@motorrat3762]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for answering! :)

[@amonkril919]

Dave Moss, I have a basic understanding of suspension and I have no idea what you're saying man. Please work on your explanations abit.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Have you tried the other videos on upgrading suspension and why? That gives the basic principles to leverage for this video.

[@amonkril919]

@@catalystreactionsbw Will do. Thanks.

[@mahaniamir]

what dose SAG stand for !?? S.A.G

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. S.A.G. stands for Screen Actors Guild, but that's not anything to do with suspension. Here "sag" is the English noun and verb meaning, " decline to a lower level, usually temporarily." Motorcycle suspension needs to sag a little under the weight of the motorcycle itself, called "static sag." Then an additional amount when the rider sits on the bike called "rider sag." The combined are called "total sag" or sometimes just "sag."

[@mahaniamir]

@@catalystreactionsbw tanx for making it clear

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@mahaniamir Williams again. In reviewing the video I see he wrote "sag" in all caps as SAG. In a world rife with acronyms, your point is well taken.

[@mahaniamir]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you 👍🏼🐼😊

[@mikeford5106]

So many riders "THINK" ... THEY NEED TO IMPROVE THEIR BIKES, ... when in reality they are GP dreamers ! ... learn to ride well , instead of wasting money on "improvements " that you cannot skillfully use , ...and do not need !!!

[@owensmith1258]

RRR😃😃😃😂😃

[@SLP-eb1wp]

i dont think he knows what hes talkin about

[@catalystreactionsbw]

In regards to?

[@jackle3002]

Why does Dave Williams introduce him self as a "deep sea diver" ? Is this just like a plug for his diving channel or something? Seems like an irrelevant thing to put at the intro to any motorcycle video..

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. It was an attempted humorous response to a derogatory video comment about my editing prowess, that we could pay a 10 year old to do a better job (which is likely true). So I decided to change up the introduction of myself from "Dave Williams, editor, here..." to some other job for which I have been paid over the years. About 30 videos that year feature a different intro with a different job title I've had. Once upon a time I had a job as a deep sea diver.

[@jackle3002]

@@catalystreactionsbw 😅 gotcha