Ceramic Wheel Bearing Install and Reducing Brake Drag

Clear your schedule and grab your popcorn while Brock demonstrates some advanced #stupidfast performance techniques!
In Episode 9 (Part 3), Brock continues go-fast modifications to the front of Gixzilla. Brock covers everything you have ever wanted to know about Ceramic Bearings: installation styles, rolling resistance, reduced friction and also includes some ceramic bearing construction info. that you didn’t know to ask… he even and proves his points with destructive testing!
Brock also shows you how he attacks that pesky brake drag that all modern streetbikes have these days with some unorthodox theory and methods while demonstrating how to properly remove and install the front wheel and OEM Brembo calipers and brake pads.
Of course and as always, he addresses these issues in non-technical speak while also providing advanced information that makes professionals say “ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!”.
We hope you enjoy 2017 GSX-R1000 S2B: Episode 9 (P3) Drag Prep - Ceramic Bearing Install and Reducing Brake Drag
WARNING: Some of the information and performance techniques listed in this video are advanced. Please use discretion when attempting these or any other high-performance modifications. If in doubt, always choose SAFETY FIRST and configure your bike exactly as your manufacturer suggests.
The details (see previous videos for complete details):
Bike: Brock’s Performance “Gixzilla” 2017 GSX-R1000L7 Standard model (not the ‘R’ version) purchased from Fun For All Motorsports in Elizabethtown, KY
Exhaust: Brock’s Performance CT Meg ™ full titanium exhaust with carbon fiber tip: brocksperforma...
Air filter: Sprint Filter P08 F1-85 (see this link for detailed information: goo.gl/zgBcZG )
PAIR: Blocked using Brock’s PAIR Valve Block Off Plates: brocksperforma...
Power Commander: PCV with Brock’s Performance Track Map 1
ECU: Modified, per video requirements (see this link for detailed information: goo.gl/TLKbvk )
FlashTune Quick Shifter / Auto Blipper Retrofit Kit GSX-R1000 (2017) (See this link for detailed information: goo.gl/KTcL6x )
5th gear pulls
Brock’s Radial Mount Front End Lowering Kit: brocksperforma...
Brock’s OE Ceramic Wheel Bearing Kit by Worldwide Bearings: brocksperforma...
Dynojet Model 250I dyno using DynoWare RT, Power Core C3 and WinPEP 8 dyno control - displaying the SAE scale (unless noted otherwise in the video)
Brock’s Suzuki GSX-R1000 (2017) Info page: blog.brocksperf...
0:14 - Video introduction
1:10 - Rolling wheel demo (1 1/4 rotations)
1:56 - Why is there resistance/drag?
3:48 - We are not building a race bike
4:36 - Stop touching my stuff!
5:40 - Removing strap brackets and OEM Brembo calipers
7:20 - Rolling wheel demo (no brake drag)
7:59 - Removing axle nut, axle, and wheel
9:10 - Noting wheel spacer
9:38 - Remove one caliper on race bikes?
10:28 - Factory dust seal friction
10:53 - Not for everyone
11:40 - Modifying OEM bearings
12:32 - No special tools required
13:00 - In your own garage
13:31 - Removing OEM dust seals
14:41 - Little here, little there
15:05 - Using simple tools
15:15 - Pushing bearing from opposite side
16:50 - Using socket/extension
17:05 - Using screwdriver
17:40 - Using round stock (sharp edge)
18:10 - Sweat… cursing… part of the process
19:05 - Remove second bearing
19:20 - Are the OEM bearings reusable?
20:10 - Double checking bearing dimensions
21:20 - WWB use double-sided dust seals
21:50 - Refer to manual for first bearing install
22:20 - Cleaning before installation
23:40 - OOOPS… put it in crooked
24:00 - Prepping bearing for installation
25:04 - Solid, bearing is seated
26:15 - Checking inner sleeve for damage
27:17 - Pounding in second bearing
28:13 - Seating bearings properly
28:40 - Reinstalling front wheel
30:03 - Brake pads = friction
31:05 - Brake pad drag demo
31:55 - Explaining chamfer process
33:40 - Removing brake material
35:00 - Critical inspection
35:30 - NO REALLY: Asterisk, fire signal… THIS MOD IS **NOT** FOR EVERYONE!!!
37:00 - ‘Infinite’ ceramic bearing wheel spin
37:50 - Reapplying the brakes
38:40 - But, how much do they help?
39:07 - Only 1 MPH faster?!? They still can’t catch you…
39:32 - Test (7 revolutions)
40:05 - Torqueing down front axle
41:10 - Torqueing pinch bolts/calipers
42:00 - Cycling the front suspension
42:54 - Important notes, rotation, and balance
43:40 - Trouble hammering in a bearing?
44:28 - Cheap ceramic bearing vs. hammer
45:10 - Can we break the US made bearing?
45:50 - Inspection after beat down
46:46 - Never seen a bad ceramic ball
47:30 - Quality on a microscopic level
Visit www.BrocksPerfo... for additional information

[@BikersGarage101]

Brock, I appreciate your honesty in taking all the heat for this video and not deleting the comments. For this, I commend you (up front: that's all that I'm going to commend you for!) You know, at first I though this was another one of those "Ichiban moto" videos! (Bad ass!) but then, I see you take this seriously! Doing this, for me, is beyond idiotic!!! If you pretend to gain a bit more performance, less drag or whatever, there are many more things you can do but not this!!! Let's not get ridiculous, OK? And for fucks sake!!! Cover your machine tools if you are going to do this!!! As a machinist, it's cringe time man!!! Bad, that's very bad!!! And for the rest of you guys, please don't do this, just slap that brake handle a couple of times and... there you go! Ride safe people!!!

[@BrockDavidson]

@Bikers Garage... thanks for your input. BTW, rude/inappropriate comments ARE deleted and users are blocked.... The rest get the advice in the long description: WARNING some of the information and performance techniques listed in this video are advanced. Please use discretion when attempting these or any other high-performance modifications. If in doubt, always choose SAFETY FIRST and configure your bike exactly as your manufacturer suggests.

[@BrockDavidson]

@Biker's Garage - we also send them information on our (4x) AMA National Championships using these techniques: blog.brocksperformance.com/category/news/race-reports/

[@BrockDavidson]

@Bikers's Garage - and finally, we let them see what happens when a brand new sportbike gets drag raced without removing the front wheel friction... even with a multi-time national championship rider at the controls: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIGUdpuNYtxmlc0

[@thealvaco]

@@BrockDavidson can you explain why the crash is related to the pads?

[@BrockDavidson]

@@thealvaco the rider was complaining of front wheel drag on a previous pass and a feeling that the front end was trying to "wash out" - this generally only happens in a straight line when the rider inadvertantly cocks the front wheel, or drag is causing the wheel to "skate". As you can see from the video, he carries the wheel on the launch, when it lands he loses the front end and crashes. The cure for this issue was EXACTLY what we show in this video as class rules did not allow parts to be swapped (race braking components, etc...). The bike never had a handking problem again after the mods,wWe won the next several events and went on to win the 2005 National Championship: blog.brocksperformance.com/2005-national-champions/

[@BrockDavidson]

Click Long Description for additional information and Video Time Stamps - Please SUBSCRIBE if you enjoy our channel!

[@swatson0061]

Can you do an explanation of how that clutch cushion works?

[@BrockDavidson]

@@swatson0061 yes. It's on our to do list. Anyone who has experienced usually wonder the same thing... But they really don't care, because it works so well!

[@swatson0061]

@@BrockDavidson thank you sir

[@triedproven9908]

When ya gonna do a turbo build? :)

[@BrockDavidson]

@@triedproven9908 lol, me and hair dryers have never really gotten along ;)

[@jryer1]

That ceramic bearing test was insane, the BIGGER hammer test had me laughin' the whole time. The USA/Japanese bearings are tuff!

[@BrockDavidson]

They are amazing!

[@jryer1]

@@BruceBusby - I can tell you from my personal experience I don't agree with that assessment. I put quality ceramic bearings in roller blade wheels for a gravity electric project I worked a few years back, big difference. Remember Brock's focus is mostly on drag racing, ask any racer in a national championship, if they could pick up 1/2 a tenth on their competitor would it be worth it?

[@jessemoody8609]

So why do the manufacturers put that much material on the brakes it can't just be for fun. And surely when that chamfer wears off it'll be flat again anyway which just brings you right back to where you were in the first place. I know many serious motorcycle racers and none of them do this.

[@BrockDavidson]

Sounds like you could use some faster friends. Please see long description: WARNING some of the information and performance techniques listed in this video are advanced. Please use discretion when attempting these or any other high-performance modifications. If in doubt, always choose SAFETY FIRST and configure your bike exactly as your manufacturer suggests.

[@rogkmyers]

Seems like a fair question to me. If it was such a good idea, why don't brake manufacturers sell chamfered brake pads?

[@BrockDavidson]

@@rogkmyers because they don't drag race?

[@missydee6085]

@@BrockDavidson If you say this 'mod' is only beneficial within drag racing applications, why not use a smaller, single disc set-up on the front wheel (thus saving weight - in addition to reducing brake pad resistance & braking efficiency)?

[@sheilamorrison1954]

@@missydee6085 Because that would actually require a brain. There are multiple dumb ideas in this, its beyond amazing how this is a business.

[@JPTulo]

2:33 This is crazy I came across this just now. I was just cleaning my front wheel and noticed this sound and thought there was something wrong with my brakes. Another great informative video, thanks!

[@marknasia5293]

Thanks for taking the time to post the video, today’s world and people with their negative comments never seem to surprise me, ignore the haters, most don’t even own a bike more or less have ridden one, which is ok, but since they have a keyboard they become an ASE master mechanic overnight with unfounded comments. I purchased a set of BST carbon fiber wheels with ceramic bearings and the acceleration is immediately noticeable, also the breaking distance is shorter. Keep bringing us videos with your tips while the haters on here dial 911 because their McNuggets are cold. Thank again Brock

[@BrockDavidson]

@mark - thank you for the kind words and we will keep doing our thing.

[@ShagNasty2007]

@Brock Davidson Chamfering brake pads is a bad idea. First, physics says there will be no less friction as the friction force is NOT dependant on the surface area. Second, pads don't actually touch a disc at speed (unless you have a problem with your brakes). Third, now you've reduced the contact patch of the pad, there will be huge local temperature variations under load, possibly leading to a catastrophic pad failure not to mention the pad could skew in the calliper and possibly stick.

[@BrockDavidson]

You should watch the video.

[@leoarc1061]

​@@BrockDavidson When I saw you using a marker, I thought that you would do something that could make SOME sense. Your objective is to remove friction, correct? So, why not mark the pads, see which area is contacting the disk, and then take material away from that specific area. (Or you could simply take the bike for a ride, do a few hard braking runs, and the friction will be gone.) As the OP correctly mentioned, what you did can lead to catastrophic failure. Please don't do it again.

[@HentaiCheaters]

Its is dependant on surface area, since coeficient of friction is directly correlated to surface area... imagine an eraser on its sides and its top

[@marcodimaio3087]

Love the way you take us back to school, you’re amazing Brock

[@BrockDavidson]

@marco, school is FUN if you enjoy the subject 😉

[@matt3122]

Brock, you're the best.

[@husky701rider9]

I love going fast. When I was 18 I hit 55 mph on a longboard. I loved doing big canyon bombs and going fast on a skateboard and my mind was blown when I switched to ceramic bearings on my board.

[@47-TH4TS-R4VN]

If I ever get a new board I'ma try some. Iv never experienced the difference

[@mattiamenon8791]

Brock you are amazing, and I love when you say,,,,,, BACK IN THE DAYS...…………. hahahahahaha I really enjoy watch you make everything possible in any way to get more HP and speed, mill down half of the brake pad just genius. the devil is the details hahahahaha thanks for every lessons you give us

[@JEddiezz]

I love your videos..I have your exhaust on my busa.i love it thank you

[@jonnozx10r32]

Brock I hope you and all read this, please don’t take it the wrong way, but to put the bearings in without any tools whatsoever just pop them in the freezer for 10 mins, it shrinks the metal and slides in without any heavy hitting, added easier way too compliment the cold of the bearings in to put the hairdryer or heat gun on the race of the wheel, so the two contrasts in temps makes it a breeze bearings shrink wheel race expands 👍

[@BrockDavidson]

Thanks. Covered multiple times in comments.

[@jonnozx10r32]

Oh ok sorry brock love your videos mate

[@MCA842]

Brocks when you put the new bearings in the -20 freezer you can easily place it in the rim because metal shrinks due to cold.

[@BrockDavidson]

Covered in a previous comment.

[@gz4789]

Yes...for those that do not have the proper tools, freeze the bearings your are installing and your install will be much easier and less risk of damaging the new ones on install.

[@redactedrider7606]

Man, there's a lot of Keyboard certified mechanics in these comments. Holy hell lol

[@990966]

Do NOT do this to your brakes.

[@BrockDavidson]

WARNING some of the information and performance techniques listed in this video are advanced. Please use discretion when attempting these or any other high-performance modifications. If in doubt, always choose SAFETY FIRST and configure your bike exactly as your manufacturer suggests.

[@jaredwasserman8148]

@@BrockDavidson you should consider not doing this at all. Surely Brembo used millions to design their brakes, and cutting half the surface area away will just increase wear and surface tension, never mind possibly causing micro-fractures in the braking material which could cause them to totally fail. some fool who tries this idiotic thing you have shown here will cause an accident and possibly kill someone.

[@daveyt4802]

I did it and I am still alive. No brake failures yet. BUT JW has a good point. Probably best to leave the pads alone.

[@adampark8341]

Says every dude who doesnt race

[@blipco5]

Grind down the outside edge of the old bearing, take some off of the inner. Takes five minutes, for the perfect setting tool. Save them for the next install.

[@apexhunter2k]

Great video as always. This is the norm for you. Thanks for changing the bearings with the normal tools most would have in there garage. I'm halfway through the video and noticed you don't have them knees on a knee pad. Protect those knees Brock!!! Also, can you share the size of the socket you used to install the bearings.

[@BrockDavidson]

Glad you like our series. Yes, I get so involved that I forget simple items...like keeping my kneees on the protective pad I laid down and raising the bike lift instead of squatting down next to it. I usually laugh afterward and call myself a dumbas* !!

[@stacey37221]

I'm 100% in on Ceramic Bearing...Thx Brock!!!

[@daveyt4802]

I have seen some Moto GP bikes that have Brembo calipers with a spring to spread the pads off of the rotors to reduce drag. $$$$$ though.

[@BrockDavidson]

The problem with that set-up is that you have delayed braking in the pits. It's dangerous in the drag pits, so we stopped doing it as they are too crowded and chaotic.

[@tomrynkewicz7674]

Great, great video! Good info!

[@cashlessracing]

What size is the socket you use as a bearing driver? I use a 1/2" drive 38mm for my zx14r it's just a little small but it works

[@BrockDavidson]

The one in my toolbox that fit ;)

[@vr___46]

I made a custom bearing remover from an old front axle I had. It fits perfectly inside the bearings. So I grinded a cross in the axle from one side, and snug inside(I smoothed the inside threads in axle) a spare metal spacer from a front stand that holds down the triple clamp😁😁 then I hammer the conical spacer hard inside the axle, axle expands and push against the bearing 😁😁 I give some heat through the hub and hammer the axle. Bearing pops out, it's so satisfying 😂😂😂😂

[@BrockDavidson]

@VR46 >> THAT'S what I'm talking about! I love making special tools to make a job more efficient :)

[@vr___46]

@@BrockDavidson yes indeed, tools are never enough and with custom tools we feel extra pleasure ! I did this to change by myself bearings to the carbon dymags . So I will not stress the hub at all. It's very interesting that you removed the dust seals, and honestly I never thought that the spacer is actually spinning inside the seal (well... Better the seal is spinning around the spacer) creating friction! So next time I will take the wheel off, I will remove the seals and count revolutions. I agree so much with what you said:litlle from here, litlle from there, and you have something you can measure. So Dymag uses smaller bearings for the gsxrs stock wheels. and they re sealed from both sides.i think bst uses the same too. One stock gsxr front bearing weights 127gr and one for dymag 74 gr . Not bad for steel bearings.😀 I can't gring my brake pads for my track bike(though it has amazing results) but I I would like one day to install your ceramic bearings.😀

[@Tore_Lund]

This is too much pad drag they will heat up. I presume it is because the bike is new and pads havn't worn in yet. You can have the pads so close it looks like they are touching, but they are not, and there is no room for rain water either, but they wont drag. My wheel spins for 15 seconds on steel bearings with PFTE grease, and brake response is instant. To grease a sealed bearing, take out the inner seals, dirt can get in there, removes some drag too.

[@DeadlyAura76]

Brilliant video and information. I could watch these all day. Great tips and description of how to do stuff. Look forward to the next video.

[@Bullet62013]

Hey Brock....I would have liked to have seen the difference in the front tire rotation with the wheel off the ground after getting the front wheel centered and tightening the front axle and the calipers to Suzuki factory torque specifications instead of everything just snug, I mean that is the final product with everything tight which is where you started the rotation test.....Apple's for Apple's.👍 I know from when we were doing a lot of dyno testing back in 2000/2001 with the hayabusa only tightening up the rear axle nut to 10 pounds of torque, snug, that busa rear wheel has lots of drag when tightened to spec and obviously you can't ride around like this we were just playing around. The bike did end up making 4 more horsepower on the Dyno than with the axle nut at factory torque spec 80 or so ft lbs due to less rotational resistance in back to back runs, you could see when you spun it by hand the difference. That's not even changing the bearings to ceramics....lol. I don't even remember if ceramic bearings were available back then but if they were they were probably outrageously expensive....lol.

[@slabby8537]

Brock please tell me that the nice 1100E did not get covered in brake dust as you were grinding in that direction :o

[@trevorellis1704]

Do you have a list of which bikes are manufactured "over braked". I'm assuming that my 1980's bikes are not but I do have a 2015 Honda CBR300, is it safe and legal to run this on the roads with half width brakes? This would be very helpful. Thanks

[@BrockDavidson]

Not recommended - this is a drag race modification. Many of the other tips in this series will net you measurable results.

[@trevorellis1704]

​@@BrockDavidson Thanks. A friend also pointed out that here in the UK this is possibly the sort of mod for which you are obliged to notify your insurance company. This means that, without gaining their approval, a) it would be illegal to ride on UK roads and b) you would be personally liable for all damage caused by an accident in which you were involved.

[@BrockDavidson]

@@trevorellis1704- fantastic information for our friends in the UK. Do you need to tell your Insurance company when you race your bike at a closed course venue also? Only seems fair.

[@Addy29plus5]

Brock Davidson yes as you are not insured. They have spotters at track days that note bikes that have been crashed at events in case they try to claim

[@peytonhibdon7659]

Been waiting on this one,love your tech series.

[@AST4EVER]

How much is the maximum bhp that you've derived from the ZX10R (post 2016 model) ?

[@BrockDavidson]

@Avneesh - we have produced 202 RWHP using our full exhaust package, Sprint Filter and race gas: blog.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/articlefiles/ZX10R_P08_SF_Airbox_Dyno_Zoom.jpg

[@TheKawasaki93]

So familiar, you in your garage, music playing, kids crying wife nagging and you having a great time. Keep up this videos.

[@mikegrover8458]

Man, huge shout-out to you Brock for putting videos like this up, love watching and learning... Keep them coming brother, this kind of shit is genius... 👊💯

[@jeremybly]

I've done literally everything that can be done to my cbr1000rr sp. Full mods done and best tuner for my specific bike. There is little nothing else I can do besides lightweight rims and ceramic bearings. I'm not doing the rims but thinking about doing the bearings. Will the bearings actually make a noticeable difference? Is it measurably on a dyno? And will I actually go any faster when racing?

[@BrockDavidson]

I can tell you 100% that we have NEVER slowed a bike down by installing them. More Info: blog.brocksperformance.com/why-choose-worldwide-bearings/

[@25rmoyer]

Whats your thought on freezing new bearings before install and heating up the hub to help install with little hammering? I have seen it done before but like to hear from a person with a racing background

[@BrockDavidson]

Yes - that's an 'old school' technique. Personally, I don't like DIY types heating aluminum for fear of altering the mechanical properties of the wheels. It can be and is done but that's more of a professional level and beyond the realm of this series. As far as 'freezing' - same deal. Chilling them in the freezer can temporarily reduce the O.D. but not enough to mess with if you have the proper tools. Aka. you won't see the engineers who designed the wheels telling you to drop parts in your fridge. Liquid Nitrogen can also be used and will substantially reduce the O.D....but it's dangerous and can damage the seals/grease/bearing cages...your fingers can freeze and break off, etc... General bad stuff that is best left to the pros.

[@25rmoyer]

@@BrockDavidson thanks for the response. I always thought of that trick as a very lazy way of installing bearings. Can't wait for your next video and like to use your videos to help with my little 04 r6.

[@mikecheeze4312]

What is the clicking during the 7 rotations test? Also wouldn't it rotate less once everything is torqued down?

[@BrockDavidson]

The click was the edge of the painter's tape was hitting the fender. If properly tightened (cycle front end/tighten/cycle etc.) the rotations will not change after torquing.

[@mikecheeze4312]

@@BrockDavidson awesome thanks, love your videos!🤘🤙

[@dry509]

Can I ask what bike right off the show room floor without any clutch mod is good for casual drag racing from a dead stop for fun without the clutch giving out or not working properly? I just want to practice. Senior here with no mechanical ability or experience. I seem I read to remember in one comparison I read a few years ago that the GSX-R1000 and the Honda CBR-1000RR were the only ones in that comparison with a clutch that would work or not give out? Not sure what model years this was. Thanks in advance for your comments.

[@BrockDavidson]

If you are worried primarily about clutch problems, the ZX-14's are tough to beat. I'm fairly sure they are the only Japanese motorcycles that were drag raced during development. The 06-11 do not require a clutch mod, just slightly stiffer springs. The 12's and up (14R's) require an inexpensive mod, but make a solid 20 more HP.

[@dry509]

Brock Davidson Thank you!

[@conservative-proud]

Hey Brock, you need to look at the wheel spacers instead of the bearings ;)

[@hisaanhaq4116]

Can’t wait to see this hit the strip, what you think low 9s? They say it does 9.9 stock I think

[@BrockDavidson]

The 2017's are so restricted that 9.90's would be tough in stock form - I haven't seen any official 1/4 mile times on one. Yes- we expect low 9"s / high 8's with a jockey in good weather conditions. The S1000RR is our target: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZ2QqZaeidafkMk

[@dougie730]

Why grind the brake pads down because of the resistance? when you can just remove the brakes to get rid of that resistance. you don't need them anyway!

[@jacobhendrickson8935]

I’m surprised the stock calipers have no guide pins? Unless I just couldn’t see them.

[@BrockDavidson]

@Jacob, they don't. Lighter/easier... Typical #brembo 👍👍

[@Sasquatchadventures1]

Grinding your pads on the lower half is absolutely a horrible idea. Do not do this. Not only is it bad for the pad it is worse for the wear of the rotor. Yes pad chamfer is real but on the leading edge and trailing edge. To reduce bit on contact. You are halting the contact surface to the rotor. And heat transfer is going to make things worse.

[@BrockDavidson]

WARNING some of the information and performance techniques listed in this video are advanced. Please use discretion when attempting these or any other high-performance modifications. If in doubt, always choose SAFETY FIRST and configure your bike exactly as your manufacturer suggests.

[@Sasquatchadventures1]

Your are absolutely wrong here brock. That is not a performance upgrade. That is a way to have a brake come apart or even a rotor. If it was a performance upgrade then you would see other companies trying to market that but it's not.

[@swatson0061]

I guess this is just over some guys heads and you have to be a real racer to understand this kind of stuff.

[@MrSiDeWaYs240]

Such good info !!! Plz keep these comin !💪😎👍

[@jryer1]

@Brock - Dang it, can you stop making things go so darn fast? hahaha

[@BrockDavidson]

@Getis...I cant! Seems to be built in? Sorta like asking a hound dog not to sniff ;)

[@ANSWERTHECALLOFJESUSCHRIST]

@@BrockDavidson Old comment, but still too funny! 😅

[@giovannidefrancesco3122]

Brock you are really nailing it with those videos, an italian fan

[@bikeserv]

I use a long punch and a wedge on the opposite side,for it to hold the punch offset and hit the bearing

[@rubendelrio6120]

Would you change the bearings on the rear wheel too? Or not neccessary?

[@BrockDavidson]

Yes definitely. The rear wheel is covered in the next episode.

[@apexhunter2k]

Ok I finished watching the entire video now.Great tips that give folks the courage to work on their own bike. One thing I do to align the calipers. I put them on finger tight, then I pump the brakes and leave the brakes applied with a tie wrap on the lever.. Then tighten the calipers to the specified torque value. I found this would center the rotor better between the pads and have less friction.

[@MatiMorini]

great again!!!!!!!!!

[@LambChopRides]

Incredibly interesting, what a huge difference the pad mods made.. loved the vid!

[@richiektm]

Really Chops.. you do the same on your channel see what feed back you get I dare you😂

[@martinlong8739]

Why not take the pads out altogether....no brake drag at all....What do Brembo know about brake pads eh!

[@martinlong8739]

@@MrG61-u9k Yes i'm joking Cliff, but this 'mod' is seriously dangerous for use on the road. Think about it a 'mod' that actually reduces the effectiveness of your brakes?

[@MrG61-u9k]

Chops, you jest surely!!

[@nigelhowe2387]

No it's incredibly fucking dangerous

[@yamakawirodebike5710]

THANKS for showing all this !! love it!

[@antonioantonov5141]

Brock do you think removing the front rotor and caliper will gain you some mph? If so would it be significant and worth the lack of braking.

[@BrockDavidson]

That depends on your setup. If the bike is long enough, it's a measurable difference at the drag strip. Very few grudge bikes have dual front brakes, and they stop from over 200 mph with a single disk and no rear brake at all.

[@antonioantonov5141]

@@BrockDavidson thanks Brock 🙏🏼

[@daveyt4802]

Do the new Suzuki's come with Aluminum axle nuts? How well do they hold up? You guys use that heavy spacer too in the front axle? I just looked, that nut 54712-47H00 is $29 bucks. Must be AL, yikes!

[@BrockDavidson]

If OEM's use an aluminum nut, it typically contains metal thread inserts. We can't use the heavy spacers in Super Stock, but they are one of the best kept secrets at the drag strip as well as on the street to covertly curb wheelies and win races. If you don't like $29...don't look at our heavy spacers, lol.

[@daveyt4802]

Yeah a BST wheel and Tungsten spacer are pretty expensive! Plus ceramic bearings. I can't afford to win races. Heh.

[@BrockDavidson]

I said not to look ;)

[@daveyt4802]

Getting out the angle grinder today...EBC HH's are expensive!

[@jryer1]

"Stop touchin' my stuff" - Sounds a little suspect - hahaha

[@dwainmcarthur2565]

If you hammer you "drift" (tool to punch out bearing) it will move the inner space enough to expose enough of the bearing race to get a decent bite on the bearing and thus punch them out. Just my .02 cents from doing this a few hundred times.

[@BrockDavidson]

FYI: we show the "non-side of the road" technique, using the proper tools in the next episode.

[@darenoreilly3852]

Thank u

[@vincentyap3188]

dude have you heard about full Zirconia ceramic bearings?i heard it is stronger and tougher than others ceramic bearings, which they can have higher load, and take mini load shock where others bearing cannot take it.by the way are you using Hybrid Ceramic Bearing or full Ceramic Bearing? i heard Hybrid Ceramic Bearing is risky where the Ceramic ball can break the metal cafe.

[@BrockDavidson]

I have personally used World Wide Bearing Hybrid Ceramic Bearings ( bit.ly/3PEffgg ) since the mid 1990 and we have sold tens of thousands of them at Brock's Performance.... we have never seen a "broken" one.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Who's going to install ceramic bearings on stock OEM cast wheels? I guess it's an improvement. What's more improving is forged alloy wheels or carbon fiber wheels, even with steel OEM bearings. But... it's all budget related, I guess.

[@jacobhendrickson8935]

Those rotors look like brembo t drives with stock buttons added. Never noticed this.

[@BrockDavidson]

Yes, they are unique.

[@rd6057]

Hi Brock. I live in Holland and ride a ducati monster 1200. What bearings do you suggest? i cant find Any. And do you think it’s wise to remove the dust caps if I ride in rain? Another question; I want to change my o-ring chain to get more power on the wheel. Which one do you suggest to get more power and what are the cons? Thanks in advance. Love your vids 💪🏻

[@BrockDavidson]

@R de graaf - hello from the USA. We have a full line of ceramic bearings. If we don't have a ceramic bearing kit listed for your bike, we more than likely do as individual bearings - but you will need to know your bearing dimensions. You can also contact [e-mail] to inquire about your bike. Keeping the dust seals in extremely rainy climates would be a good idea. Any high-quality x-ring or z-ring chain will work for general riding - we like the Regina chains for street and EK for drag.

[@rd6057]

Hi Thanks for your (quick) answer. 🙂 I Will look into the dimensions of the bearings first. About the chain, I just looked into your vid about the drivetrain friction reduction but that’s not a smart idea for my street monster1200 I guess? Any other ways to get less friction and less horsepower loss on the rearwheel?

[@BrockDavidson]

@@rd6057 no problem. The x and z ring cahins are your best bet for reduced friction and street use in wet weather.

[@rd6057]

Brock Davidson oké Nice. Is this a Good alternative?; www.motomummy.com/chains/ek-3d-chain/ Or are there other Good Nice looking but cheaper alternstives?

[@taps_1021]

Seen an article once on a bike that had ceramic bearings installed in the engine and wheels.

[@BrockDavidson]

We use them anywhere in a race engine we can: Transmission, cam bearings...even water pump bearings. Every small advantage adds up.

[@daveyt4802]

Tesla uses them for their rotor bearings. For the electric motors. These bearings start at around $100 each and up though. Ooof. Silicon Carbide bearings are non conductive. So they can't arc and ruin the races. Excellent for electric motors.

[@petebusch9069]

Wouldn't putting the bearing in the freezer first be a better alternative to beating it in?

[@BrockDavidson]

Doesn't matter. Freezing with liquid nitrogen allows them to drop right in, but it destroys the seals and cages at the same time. We show how to properly install bearings using a press and tooling in another video. This one was dedicated more to a simple roadside repair.

[@jacobszymczak9323]

If you wanted half the drag, couldn't you have just removed the pads from one of the dual calipers on the front wheel? Half of 2 pairs equals 1 normal one

[@BrockDavidson]

@Jacob - yes we could have and it's covered at 9:38. But your "half of 2 parts equals 1" statement assumes that you are using 100% of the available braking power. In reality, these bikes will stop quickly from 150+ MPH using very slight pressure to the lever... after these mods, the same braking can be accomplished with slightly more pressure applied to the lever.

[@jacobszymczak9323]

@@BrockDavidson ya I was just thinking it over in more of a "if you dont need that much braking power if you removed one set then you would still have the braking power, it wouldnt be "modded" for safety and piece of mind, and if you completely eliminated the second brake setup, caliper and rotor, you lose the rolling resistance, weight, and rotating mass on the front wheel generated by the second rotor. More bang for the buck perhaps, assuming removing the second rotor wouldnt alter the balance of the front wheel assembly

[@BrockDavidson]

@Jacob, what you are saying makes perfect sense for a stretched out racebike - for our short wheelbase application that we are riding to the track, three brakes that can each provide enough power to stop the bike is far safer. We can always apply more pressure to the brake levers for quicker stopping power. You don't have that option if the brakes are missing.

[@darenoreilly3852]

Brock, what sz is the big nut u took off for the front rim

[@BrockDavidson]

@Daren - it's a 30mm socket.

[@TATTDAD]

Why wouldn't you use a bearing puller?

[@RossoOz]

As he said, he was showing how most people at home would do this job without the specialist tools

[@hondaracing4669]

I hope you have enough worldwide bearings in stock.

[@BrockDavidson]

VR46 I show our inventory in the next video... we are good ;)

[@raphaelauteuil8502]

Dust seals + ceramic bearings have a lower drag than dust seals + steel bearings, right? So why not put the dust seals back on at 28:33 and avoid the shorter life of unprotected bearings?

[@BrockDavidson]

The bearings are protected with their own low friction seal for years of trouble free life. If you are not racing, reinstall the dust seals if you like.

[@raphaelauteuil8502]

@@BrockDavidson Thanks, Brock. Will they suffer from the same problem I have in my bike hybrid bearings, i.e., steel races get damaged by the silicon nitride balls because silicon nitride is a lot harder than steel so it digs in, causes wear and ends up creating more coaxial movement of the races in relation to each other?

[@jay5618]

hey brock i have a ? so i here hydrolic cluch is not good for drag racing so is there a way you can convert it to a cable if so would you do a video on it

[@BrockDavidson]

Hydraulic clutches are far better than cables, IMO. Zero drag and more mechanical advantage. Our fastest clutch set-ups at the drag strip will not function properly without hydraulic - try controlling almost 600 lbs. of static pressure with a cable.

[@jay5618]

@@BrockDavidson thank you brock always love learning somthing new and this is were i come for it lol

[@martinfpss]

Have said it before, but Brock's is Best! I've been working on bikes for 20+ years but always learn something new from a Brock video. The industry is so much better for having someone as knowledgable as Brock sharing his knowledge for free. And it translates into his parts being the best, you know this is someone who just point blank refuses to do it any other way than the right way!

[@vr___46]

5:30 I ve done it too lot of times 😂😂to push like idiot the lever when wheel is off. My way on my gsxr is to unbolt slightly only the lever ( it's brembo with Allen bolt) and drop it down. So practically the lever is facing the ground while the hole system is in place like normal. So nobody can brake. But I mask all the way with tape the grips😂😂 when I make mods. I hate to get dirty😂😂😂😂 Nice video!!!

[@antonioantonov5141]

reading the comments gives me anxiety, Brock is building the bike for literally drag racing, taking the bike from home directly to the drag strip. No racing on a track or anything.... Do people really think most of these upgrades are for track racing?

[@BrockDavidson]

Your bike has no idea where its wheels are spinning...

[@antonioantonov5141]

@@BrockDavidson Brock you spin my world

[@BrockDavidson]

@@antonioantonov5141 lol

[@HentaiCheaters]

Why chamfer the bottom, not the sides of the brake pads?

[@HentaiCheaters]

Because the disc brake itself will get uneven wear radius wise, but if you chamfer the sides of the brake pad, the wear will be even

[@BrockDavidson]

The idea is to reduce friction at the beginning of the race (to help the rider brake free from the pack) but still allow full stopping power by the end of the race as the pad wears back to normal. Additionally, the pads will 'rock' into a more powerful stopping position, even when chamfered, by applying additional force at the lever - this can't happen if the material is missing.

[@HentaiCheaters]

@@BrockDavidson oh i get it, are you saying the rocking motion means the pads are tilted when force is applied? This wont happen with side chamfers?

[@Hashbrownxpress]

Do you ever run oil in ceramic bearings instead of grease?

[@BrockDavidson]

Yes! In classes where every thousandth of a second counts, we remove the dust seals and use our

[@Hashbrownxpress]

I want to do this in a roll racing scenario. I was told it was a bad idea because you will lose the oil, even with the bearings sealed on both sides.

[@BrockDavidson]

The bearings use a special lightweight grease, so we don't mess with oiling any longer. We did run the inner seal. It's a bad idea to remove them if you are in sandy or very dirty conditions.

[@Hashbrownxpress]

I greatly appreciate the info!

[@norevlimitr1602]

Genius Fast....

[@tatuksa]

is the life span of the ceramics bearing the same as oem ?

[@BrockDavidson]

@tatuksa - the ceramic bearing life is 3-5 times longer than steel. Here's more info on Worldwide Bearings: blog.brocksperformance.com/why-choose-worldwide-bearings/

[@gsxrrrider]

Hi brocks

[@jockvanniekerk8074]

Brock is it true that the bearings can crack during transportation of your bike if you hit a big bump or hole in the road with your trailer?

[@BrockDavidson]

Absolutely not.

[@fmgdamiao]

Why you not use hot gun to put the bearing??

[@BrockDavidson]

covered many times in the comments.

[@jryer1]

Someone donate that man a front pair of SHOWA BFF, Inverted telescopic forks. This will give all the room needed to lower the front end even more, if need be.

[@BrockDavidson]

@Getis, yeah... this isn't a problem on the r model. We were being cheap and now must deal with it.

[@jryer1]

@@BrockDavidson I'm almost certain the community has a pair from a crashed bike some where. Would love to see someone donate.

[@donjuan1933]

I see ya Brock, only the people that don’t get will call you a fool, that’s why if they race they will be a lil slower than you. 💪🏾👍🏾

[@BrockDavidson]

@DonJuan19 I see you get it my friend. We have 5 Prostar/AMA Dragbike National Championships in the ultra-competitive SuperSport class - a 'little' faster is all we needed ;)

[@donjuan1933]

How can having less break pad than you had before cause a Seize up,I thought collapsing brake lines or sticking caliper pistons caused that. And I bet old gixilla is still able to stop on a dime.

[@mick3513]

@@donjuan1933 did you see what happened to the wheel bearing when tried to put it in the first time, the pistons in the brake caliper will do the same thing and not release

[@marcillingworth5126]

@Eddie Hitler there's a real danger in videos like this it may be OK on a dedicated race bike (drag race bike not a proper road race bike)that runs for 10 secs then stops in a controlled area, but in any other circumstances reducing brake efficiency by 50% by grinding the pads is beyond stupid, how many young impressionable people will be be taking an angle grinder to the road be pads ???

[@dominicelek9394]

@Eddie Hitler 😂 you're a pussy

[@MrMrincredibull]

Had to subscribe after this one Brock lol!!!

[@AlexRib]

Bro...

[@BikerJim74]

Yes, make your bike unsafe.

[@Honda1k]

Take the brake rotors off before you try doing this at home

[@BrockDavidson]

Lol, most grudge drag bikes do not run a rear brake at all.

[@Honda1k]

@@BrockDavidson I was just saying take them off when you're beating out the bearings that way you don't risk damaging them

[@BrockDavidson]

@@Honda1k @1000r gottcha and you are correct.

[@totoabicyclette7100]

I'm concerned that some kiddo out there will apply this to his own street bike. You know... because "fast". And end up in a rear bumper. 'Cause kids can't read warnings, even written in bold letters under a video.

[@BrockDavidson]

This is very advanced performance advice that has been tested for years on our sportbike drag racing machines. Today's sportbike have incredible braking, suited for thousands of miles of heavy use... This mod has surprisingly little effect on braking performance. Kiddo might need to squeeze the lever a bit harder to make up for the missing pad material , that's all.

[@simonwestwood8368]

Reducing brake drag also reduces brake efficiency. Brock you are getting confused with putting a small chamfer on the pads so you can get the wheel / caliper in easier. An old endurance racer trick.

[@BrockDavidson]

Please continue on with the series - the performance of the bike indicates we are "confused" about nothing. Very much to the contrary, in fact.

[@jwhalley8]

Soooo grinding down you pads is fine and dandy but why not just remove one of the front caliper/rotors or install springs which hold the pads away from the rotor such as those used on cars ?

[@BrockDavidson]

@James, this is covered beginning at 9:38

[@jwhalley8]

Brock Davidson but not very in depth I could see this being done in the pit before a race just to get that extra little bit but when you have the time and space in your workshop why not remove one of the Calipers/rotors and run a single side buell motorcycles have single side brakes and they are fine Also the spring I’m in reference to are not strong enough to overcome the pressure of your brakes they can be compressed easily with your bare hand and car manufacturers (ex. ford,Toyota) use them on lots of models just to provide light tension and hold the pads off the rotors to prevent rattle and I understand a car has more braking power but you wouldn’t need 8 of them maybe just 2 one for each caliper or just one if you deleted the other caliper

[@MrSiDeWaYs240]

Any links for these bearings ??

[@BrockDavidson]

In the long description, or check out brocksperformance.com

[@FastDave22]

Great video, thank you, but please buy some tools Brock! That was painful.

[@BrockDavidson]

I knew the tool snobs would come after me - lol ;) Instead of spending my $ on tools, I have always spent it on parts to go faster or replace parts that I broke during the "educational process". We will show you the proper way to deal with bearings, using fancy tools, in the next episode.

[@jimmcconville624]

instead of shaving down the most critical component of stopping the bike, why dont you do the proper mechanical servicing? like get full floating brake rotors, clean the brake calipers, and adjusting the forks to have the least amount of friction on the axle? my front tire spins for a good minute and i'd never do this to my front pads. Beveling brake pads is only used for the rear brakes when doing tire changes for track use.

[@BrockDavidson]

You do realize this is a brand new bike with zero miles? The records and race wins this bike has already achieved in official Super Stock National Competition disputes your "only used..." comment: facebook.com/watch/?v=577364726275857

[@jimmcconville624]

Brock Davidson improperly installed forks or over tightened axles will cause brake drag on a bike with 0 miles. Shaving front pads is nothing but a poorly thought out bandaid to the problem.

[@2amProFilms]

Still not worth $400 for fucking bearings, CMON!

[@BrockDavidson]

Says second place...

[@pjjms]

Are you nuts? Doing this to your brake pads is wrong on so many levels. 50% reduction in braking, unbalanced loads within the caliber, MOT failure, ruin your discs and so on. How on earth can you publish a video on how to make your brakes unsafe!!!!!

[@BrockDavidson]

We recently cured several bikes that has serious/dangerous front end "washout" problems created by excessive OEM brake drag when drag racing by utilizing this technique. It's ok if you don't understand - the riders who stopped almost crashing understand and that's all that matters.

[@59vaughn]

Ceramics....great.....cutting brake pads for arbitrary thousandths....bad.....reaction times...clutch work....weight....aero...plenty of other variables to negate having to shave yer nuts for vain attempts at being fastest....

[@boobietassel4843]

First

[@jlfc9024]

Why would you cut braking performance to stop a little bit of drag which you dont feel once the bike is moving hahaha one of the oddest things i have ever seen all you are doing is chopping braking performance and cutting pad life its not an achievement that the wheel spins freely on a paddock stand 😂

[@kasperontheweb]

All those people who put big brake kits on their cars and bikes are just stupid, the added resistance just makes you go 20 horsepower slower

[@BrockDavidson]

Aftermarket race calipers have little to no resistance. Street calipers can be a different story.

[@Adam5130A]

Can you elaborate on the differences?

[@thealvaco]

Got data to prove that?

[@JPTulo]

Depends on the goal of the vehicle. Road racing/autocross require very different things than drag racing which requires different things than roll racing.