CFMOTO Primary Clutch Balance Marks

#cfmoto #nw #utv #trusttheprocess #zforce #clutch

[@jodygiannone7158]

Good job. Clear and concise. I just did this yesterday and ended up having to rotate the back sheave around until the painted dash was visible at 3 O'Clock then I aligned the outer sheave and hat with the dash on the inner sheave and tightened it up. Remember, left hand threads on this.

[@music9430]

I’ve watched all the cfmoto cforce clutch replacement videos and this is the first I’ve seen that mentioned the notches.

[@brofosho1274]

Thank you so much! Awesome information! You saved me!

[@edclements5112]

1st video i ever seen the dot reference to. Great info. And i like the "company" name. Think you forgot one a part Red Street RV Yeti lol

[@mikebehling5579]

Good to know I usually just mark it out with a black marker.

[@R.N.GPerformance]

That’s a good way also.

[@RJvidmoto]

Great tip here...Glad I watched this! I would have done it in correctly.

[@Pond_life]

Nice tip, thanks for sharing!

[@chileanfivio1]

Most informative video I have watched on variator balance marks, do you have a video on one way bearings?

[@johanpotgieter4318]

Thanks for sharing

[@alexmax9563]

Hello! What reclocking you recomand for a cforce 600 S 2022 ? I have sport 25 tires and I'm looking for more power when starting from a standstill, a smoother start, a faster engagement of the cvt belt. I have a more sporty gait. Many recommended me to move the secondary variator to B2. I don't want to change anything else to the primary variator, just relocate the second one. Thank you!

[@NWYETIS_1]

Clocking the secondary to b2 will give you more low end grunt. It will also lower the top speed. There is always some give and take when clocking the secondary or adding weight to the primary.

[@DJ.JamHut]

If the primary is not balanced what sort of issues will you have?

[@SzymczykProductions]

Abnormal wear and failures

[@yancycf600]

Does the secondary have the same lineup notches?

[@NWYETIS_1]

Secondary is a different set up, should be in sync as long as spring is positions in the holes and clocked correctly. They are a individually balanced unit.

[@yancycf600]

@@NWYETIS_1 im getting ready to buy me a clutch kit and im a lil worried about all this im hearing about the aftermarket secondary spring and helix trouble.

[@NWYETIS_1]

In my opinion, if your not looking to race and for everything to be perfect, or changing elevations frequently. You should be safe buying a kit from whichever vendor you choose. The spring bind issue is an annoyance, not sure it's an extreme issue to be concerned about. Helix damage is a bit more of a issue to me, since it affects shift out. I still need time to complete my testing before I can suggest a set up I would 💯 percent recommend. Clutching is alot of tuning. The set up I run at 500ft is not the same as the one I run at 2,500 ft. I am a fan of progressive helixes over straight cut. Straight cut seem to work well in the mud, we only seasonally ride mud. If you ride mud, 40° helix works well, heavier weights 20-22g depends on altitude and desired RPMS. 20-22g is a range I have been using but not set in stone. Primary springs I like most are 1015 thru 1017. Most companies are in that same spring rate with kits. Secondary spring is still where I'm working to find what I like. I'm only halfway thru testing.

[@yancycf600]

@@NWYETIS_1 i live in colorado and im running my cforce 600 anywhere from 9000 ft to 12000 feet in elevation. I just went from 25” tires to 27” most of my riding will be under 30mph on rocky roads/trails (more rock crawler style driving). I may occasionally get on a road where i can do 35 to 45mph to get to the next trail. Its guys like you i listen to more. I know all the promoters of these aftermarket parts want our money. Praise to you for doing real guy testing.