Insulfrog or Electrofrog Points at Chadwick Model Railway | 20.

[@chrisemptage8896]

Just started modelling at the young age of 70 and wished I had watched your videos before starting! Great, easy to understand and follow tutorials - many thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris.

[@jdavis460]

Yes Charlie’s films are very good like you I started modelling at shall we a senior age.

[@lordflasheart6801]

If only I had watched this before....! Many thanks for all your patience and help today Charlie. Greatly appreciated. Nige

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that between us, we’ve got it sorted Nige. Regards Charlie

[@KevinGordon-x9m]

Thanks Chris. Some very sensible and practical suggestions.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards, Charlie.

[@ashtonkirby4342]

Even though this video confirmed what I already knew, I still watched to the end to catch every bit of advice; and because I always find your videos enjoyable and easy to watch. Cheers Charlie!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

What a heartwarming comment AK.

[@charlescastiel3582]

I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me

[@lachlansaint4939]

@Charles Castiel Instablaster ;)

[@charlescastiel3582]

@Lachlan Saint thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@charlescastiel3582]

@Lachlan Saint it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thank you so much, you saved my ass!

[@johngibson4641]

Hi Charlie ,, Gr8 video and some really good information that you have told us all yet again. I was lucky to aquire a 10ft x 6ft layout that had at least 20 metres of peco flexitrack and there were 15 sets of the electrofrog points and are all motorised as well and got it all and board included for $80 ausd and only only had to drive 40 mins to pick it up on the ute. All of it worked are in good nic too. Again thankyou again as you are a wealth of knowledge. Cheers from John in Australia

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s great news John. I do hope that you enjoy your new exciting project. Regards Charlie

[@maypoleman]

Thank you Charlie, you have just helped me no end. I have recently moved house bought my model railway with me so starting all over again this time with electrofrog points.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A great move John, and the points too 😜

[@graham33freeland59]

Throughly enjoyed this video Charlie..it's always great to see what other modellers are doing.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Graham, regards Charlie

[@smccoy5114]

Hey Charlie, I have been using insulfrog turnouts for 30 years and am part of a large club that uses them. I started out in DC. More and more I noticed shorting on the unifrogs using our DCC system. This was really apparent with a string of Athearn passenger cars. Because we run DCC the switch is feed from both the point end and the normal and thrown ends. The result is power right at the frog and certain wheels bridging causing the short. I recently bought a brand new three switch and normal Switch the instructions said to use insulating rail joiners on the frogs. I found a set of old blue box Peco instructions and there is no mention of insulators instead they say the wheels should be made to meet some standard. The required insulators defeat the route selecting purpose of the switch. My question is WHY doesn’t anyone talk about this and rip PECO for not resigning their switch. I believe this has been an issue since day one but in DC the shorting wasn’t significant enough for anyone to notice but in DCC your circuit protection clicking or sound locomotive’s sound shutting off its obvious. Please do a video telling the world of this issue!!!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I couldn’t agree, more SM. You’re pushing on an Open Door with this one, it’s been kicking around for years. Regards, Charlie

[@guzzi1948]

Same as Chris, just about to start as same age,no glad I found your videos first !

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Welcome aboard Arnold,

[@PhilipBallGarry]

You make some very good points Charles 👍😉

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Garry, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie

[@davidmuse7004]

Excellent video and explanation of the differences between the two. I agree the "elector frog" does look better and more prototypical but the extra wiring was a headache I did not want and I'm not using switch machines on the turnouts. I did something a tad different. I'm using "insul-Frog" switches from Peco and just love them, but did notice from time to time that some locos would stutter, so I solder on feeders just after the frog as well as approaching the frog. All rails on my switches have feeders on them, this really helped with power pickup going through the switch. A little more work, but worth the effort in the long run for better operating!! Great video and thanks for sharing! Cheers!! David Muse (Washington Terminal Co. Model Railroad)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie

[@JCRC]

Thank you. Very educational :) I'm for electrofrog now :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Good choice Joe.

[@wolfpack4694]

Very convincing demo Charlie!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it interesting John.

[@johnstokes3144]

Great tutorial Charlie. Definitely made my mind up which points to buy. Maybe more wiring etc but certainly worth the effort. Thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John. Hope you’ve subscribed too.

[@24th1879]

Hi Charlie, thanks for yet another very informative video so professionally imparted...

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris.

[@stephenedwards5254]

Im designing a new layout in 00. Im going to use the electro frog points and especially the long points aswell due to the large locomotives I've got. On my old layout I've got the Hornby standard points. They are a waste of time. Locomotives derailing. Especially the large locomotives. Yes of course there is a bit more wiring to be done. Adding micro switches to the points or buy the point motors with the micro switches built-in.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s great news Stephen. Please buy the point Motors with switches built-in. You won’t regret it. Regards Charlie

[@simontheplantsman]

Great help, thanks Charlie

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Simon, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie

[@charlesbresinger4145]

Have recently discovered your channel and think your videos are extremely well done and informative. THANKS. Looking forward to future videos.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Charles, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos. Regards Charlie

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Hi Charlie , great info, now this August 2021, Peco is bringing out Unifrog #6 turnouts in Code 83 , so you have option for power or unpowered frog points, I do understand now, my smaller locos might have a issue when crossing the points, because I live in Canada i am a HO modeller, my smallest locomotive is a SW900/1200, I am working on my first layout using these new Peco turnouts, very well made, I plan to run a feeder for the frog connection, but will test first un powered, using the new Walthers switch machines, they have extras added for frog connection if required, DCC systems are improving, thanks for the info

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A good move James. Regards Charlie.

[@jj8995]

Thank you for your reply I'm definitely going to use EF points from now on but should still I use point clips as well I've got a DCC layout cheers

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

No clips, just insulated fishplates on the frog.

[@vincenthuying98]

Hi Charlie, Haven’t gotten to laying track yet. My choice of points is build ‘m myself with FastTracks jigs, those code 83 switches first of all really run smooth and are electro-frog points. I prefer to use Tim Warris’s frog juicers which I find the most reliable tool to warrant smooth running and to prevent shorts of any kind. Thanks again for yet another very informing video.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Vincent.

[@arnoldsumner4736]

Hi Charlie, Have you made a video on modifying a code 100 three way point? Look forward to your reply and thanks for all your great video’s. Arnold Sumner

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Arnold, no I haven’t. I must confess I haven’t gotten on very well with them. However, Peko TV, have done a video on this. Regards, Charlie

[@tompPRR8976]

Hi from the US. In your demonstration of the electro frog and insul frog switches/turnouts you had no special power wiring running into those switches/ turnouts other than the mainline power wiring, correct? This was helpful to me, an electro-doofus! Thanks, Tom P.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, I believe that’s correct, Tom. Regards, Charlie.

[@ModelMinutes]

I used to always go insulfrog because of the easier wiring, but when my knowledge increased I went electrofrog, but both have advantages and disadvantages

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, I think most of start with insulfrog as we learn our craft.

[@johncarvil498]

Hi Charlie, I made the same mistake as many when getting into the model railway hobby, buying Insulfrog points because they are easier to Install. great video, very Informative........John.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@davidcutts2650]

Thanks Charlie. this was very informative for me👍👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m glad that you enjoyed it David

[@carlinglis7705]

Thank you, the best information on insulfrog v electrofrog I've found. Now all I need to do is understand wiring them for DCC. :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Carl, I’m so pleased that you have found it useful. Regards Charlie

[@terrysmith4042]

great demo have a question /help l have old Hornby locos Britannia Q/Elizabeth etc and newer type locos and have just got a layout with Peco think its SL100 all the modern locos run fine but old locos will not is it because of the different wheel depth size ?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

My money is on the cleanliness of the wheels, and on the cleanliness and number of pick ups Terry. Regards Charlie

[@trainmanroysmodelrailroadh7686]

Great video as usual, I don't want to use point motors so can I still fit an auxiliary switch without a motor, thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Not to my knowledge Roy.

[@ianlockwood7842]

Can we have a 2024 update with a view on the expanding peco unifrogs

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Ian, do you mean a review of their range? Regards, Charlie

[@ianlockwood7842]

Mainly how does a unifrog compare to the insulfrog and electro frog can we truly have our cake and eat it? the reliability of a live frog without the wiring? Or maybe stay alives in my DCC engines is all I need - just so long as I don't get a short?@@ChadwickModelRailway

[@jean-pierrepodik9638]

Hello sir! thank you for your video. On my layout I use swiths PECO large radius code 100 insulfrog. I am no problem with long locomotive in multiple units ( SD 70 and SD 60 ) but also (GP 15,40, and GP 50).The PECO materials is really exellent. Salutation of the Somme in northern France.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie

[@petercook2823]

I use insulfrog on my layouts and have never had any problems like you are trying to make out

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m not trying to “make out” the problems Peter, I’m just showing you how problems can occur. This applies in particular 0-6-0 locomotives. Regards, Charlie

[@DungeWoodRailway]

Great explanation for someone starting up, I wish I'd had this knowledge all those years ago when I got back in model railways, it would have saved me a fortune on insulfrog points, which as you say work fine when new but after a while get dirty and need constant attention. Cheers Paul

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I can only agree. so many of us make this mistake. Cheers Paul.

[@chickenbites8877]

Great vid. Im 40 and would like to get started with model railways, but I currently feel intimdated about the idea of wiring up a DCC bus, which areas of track need powering, and especially the points. Do you have any videos on these things at all?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You will need to search through my back catalogue, rest assured the info is there CB.

[@dkaustin98]

I wish PECO offered all those choices when modeling in O-16.5! There are no crossovers, slips or curved turnouts in O-16.5. However, PECO offers O-16.5 sleepers for modifying their regular HO Code 100 turnouts, etc. You cut the sleepers to fit, but you can’t replace all the HO sleepers. It was recommended to bury those in ballast. The package does have some very basic printed instructions. PECO’s KZbin channel has nothing on this process. I contacted PECO to ask if there was more info on this process. I was told that they had nothing more to offer. I guess I will soon be trying this on a curved Electrofrog turn out. Using one will allow for a longer passing siding on my layout.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

An interesting point. I imagine that Peco perceive that there wouldn’t be sufficient sales to make it viable.

[@steverowat2280]

Interesting Charlie. How does the Unifrog stack up with these? It's a pity the Bullhead range is still somewhat limited, particularly lacking the dual curve points. Regards Steve

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, Steve, the production of uni frog points has been slow and painful. However, they are certainly a vast improvement. Regards, Charlie.

[@jdavis460]

Hi Charlie I’m trying to fit a large Y electrofrog point code 100. It looks as though I will have to cut the rails it isolate the frog is that correct? (No jumper wire to remove).

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sorry Brian I just dont know. We had one on our club layout and it was nothing but trouble.

[@TheBadsanta18]

I have started a 009 layout and am not running DCC loco's but decided to use live frog points due to some of my engines being 0-4-0 (Arnold) chassis. I thought that the live frog would avoid them stalling. This has been fine on all the points except one. I have used insulated joiners after the frog and have added a power supply after the point as well as prior to the point. Larger loco's not a problem but with stalling but the two locos 0-4-0 both stall on either track. I simply don't understand why?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Do check two things Martin the first being that the track is perfectly level and the second that both the locos wheels and the track is spotlessly clean. Regards Charlie

[@TheBadsanta18]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you Charlie, After checking level - all OK. I simply could not solve it and slid the fish plates to change for a new point. New Point fitted, same problem!!? So I thoroughly cleaned all the rail contacts (don't know what you call the moving bits), hurrah problem solved all loco;s travelling perfect across all points.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s great news and cheap too.

[@jj8995]

Thanks for a simple explanation I'm having agro with insilfrog points do I still use point clips which I'm using now on electrofrog points I'm a newbie to model railway's I sometimes wish I hadn't started but I won't give in Thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi JJ, Electrofrog points are much better giving enhanced performance as well as looking far better too.

[@jerryallen34]

Hi Charles, I wish I understood electrofrog points earlier!! I would not have got the points I have. Have you done a wiring up demo video. That would be good. I would definitely begin to think of slowly changing over to improve things. I generally dont have too many issues but as you say, short wheel base or steam locos with no tender pick ups do struggle. Cheers, Jerry

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Jerry, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@Mr_Tea_Rexx]

know this is old but im new to the hobby and just got my second loco which i plan to build my own layout once i have the trains i want. This wouldn't happen to locos that have tender pickups would it ?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

It all depends on how many picks up there are, and also how effective they are. Regards, Charlie

[@Mr_Tea_Rexx]

@@ChadwickModelRailway thanks chad :)

[@chelmswoodjunction]

Hi ya mate You've converted me if I build a new layout I'm going electrofrog but be warned you'll get the help questions

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@MikeM-wv8pe]

Why not paint the insulfrog silver (or other) to match the live tracks ?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m afraid it wouldn’t last long, with track rubbers. Regards, Charlie

[@les-halestation]

Hi. I have a standard Hornby dc controller and am going to build a railway. Nothing too big. I have always had insulfrog points but no point motors. I will again not have point motors. Can I use electrfrog points even though I won't use frog wire? Many thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Les, I think that that you can. Perhaps you shold give Peco a call. They have a very good customer support desk. Regards Charlie

[@MarkInLA]

Charlie, It needs to be brought out that Electro-frog points (switches/turnouts) are not as user friendly as Insul-frog, in DCC. Electro-frog switches come with polarity concerns to the modeler due to they being power-routing, depending on which way the blades are thrown... Insul-frog, though they can cause potential stall outs, as is shown here, cause no polarity concerns, DCC or analog DC.. (BTW. In the US the 2 types turnouts/switches are called 'Power routing' and 'All-live'. Sorry, not sure if this is the same in Britain). M, Los Angeles

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

No we don't use those terms Mark.

[@steveprice9462]

Hi, I'm a newbie. Very useful video. Is the problem with the points the same with DC and DCC or does DCC overcome it somehow. Thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

No Steve, the problem is no better with DCC.

[@steveprice9462]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Cheers.

[@MrSailbadthesinner]

Even 0-4-0T locos normally have pick up on 4 wheels so in principle when one wheel is on the insul frog the other on that side should be suppling power. BUT the problem is in part due to the depth of the slot along side the frog i.e. the height difference that accommodates the flange of the locos wheels. On many points, especially the modern Hornby ones this is less than the height of the flange on many loco wheels. This lifts one wheel as it crosses the frog and since the loco is short and the wheels have very little 'suspension' play it also lifts the other wheel on the same side resulting in a loss of power. Bizarrely I have some 45 year old Hornby points that do not have this problem as the slot is considerably deeper. If you're stuck with insul frog points and don't want to rip them all up you can fix the issue by filing or machining the slots to be about 0.25mm deeper. I have also tried machining the non driven axle bearing so that it has more movement and while this can work it only fixes it for the one loco. I guess it depend if you have more troublesome points than 0-4-0T locos and which modification you find easier. Why oh why can't the manufacturers just make the points properly? (I guess they'd sell less electro frog points then).

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I totally agree, it’s a real dilemma. I do suggest that Peco points are better and clearly electrofrog points are the best. Even then 0-4-0 locos can still have issues hence the popularity of Stay-Alives in the DCC community.

[@kirkdale9183]

Cheers Charlie, great video and thanks for posting. Most of my rolling stock is old (or very old) Hornby and Lima running on Ringfield motors, so getting sustained quality of running is going to be an interesting challenge.

[@kirkdale9183]

And I will only be going Electrofrog points on Kirkdale.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Electrofrog are clearly the way to go. Regards Charlie

[@stardust5379]

Is it possible to 'paint' over the plastic frog with metallic paint? When I was a physics technician in a school, we had a silver metallic paint pen which conducted electricity. used in electric fields apparatus. we had sheets of black paper with dot grid patterns on. we drew a straight line at one end with the pen and a dot a certain distance from that line. power was applied to the line via pins stuck into the line. we then used a digital multimeter to find field strength. one probe touched the line and the other touched the dot. I know there may be issues about the paint wearing away over time but it may be a solution.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sadly that doesn’t work as you can’t switch the power on the painted frog.

[@runeljungstrommer331]

With insulfrogs you can add a power-pack...

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Not if you’re DC. Let’s not forget those guys RL.

[@PhilPage227]

Good video, Have you done one showing how to wire up these electrofrog points? Do you use insulated connectors on every joint or just the joints near the frog?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

It should be the subject of my next video.

[@PhilPage227]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks.

[@paulopires4103]

Congratulations on your videos. I have problems with an SL 93 (some vehicles are stopped in it). How can I solve this?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Have you checked each price of rail for power and the pickups on the locos?

[@peterdann2089]

Thank you for your very helpful videos. I have several old Peco Electrofrog points. They don't have a frog wire, but there is a gap in which to solder the dropper. The problem is that the frogs are not isolated. A 25 thou cutting disk to isolate the frog seems a bit brutal. The sort of gap an o/8 jewellers blade will give seems better. Do you have a view, please?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Peter, why is the frog wire missing? Did you buy them second hand?

[@peterdann2089]

Hello Charlie They are very old, over 20 years, bought new. Largely unused from a stalled project in the loft - a bad decision. There is a visible strap that joins all elements of the frog in a gap in the sleeper about 1/4" long and as wide as a sleeper. There aren't any wires. Unlike today's versions, each the closure rails are one piece from the point where they pivot up to and including the closure rails bit of the frog. Consequently, the frog cannot be electrified as it is. A break needs to be introduced into each of the closure rails to emulate the modern product. I was wondering about the best tool to introduce this break. I wpuld prefer to reuse in the points in a new project in a friendlier place rather than to buy new. I would also be delighted to see your take on ballasting.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I will cover ballasting in the future but not in the next couple of months. I must confess, I would buy new points rather than risk poor running with those old ones.

[@peterdann2089]

Thank you. Sage advice. Interestingly I have a price list from the time of purchase. The points cost twice as much then as they do now.

[@alandavis5950]

An old question, I'm sure, but if all four wheels have pickups, one back-to-back pair will be contacting live rail? See where I'm going?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Absolutely Alan, however, the wheels are never always clean. The pickups never always work and the track’s never spotless. Regards, Charlie

[@richardswallow1967]

Hi Charlie, wonder if you can advise me on the running of my Peckett over points. I'm using electrofrog points.I'm assuming the decoder is the Hornby one as I had this fitted in the UK when I purchased last year. It does not like moving slowly over the point. I would like to know if you or someone in your club can give some suggestions. Maybe a different decoder, wilth a stay alive fit?Thanks Richard.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m inclined to think that if your point is completely flat then try to add some weight to the loco. Try and stick some weight such as lead, to the top of the loco using blutack and see if that improves it. If it does, perhaps you can find space inside the shell or underneath for a more permanent fix. Regards Charlie

[@chrisj6321]

I was having some issues with my 0-6-0 going over the insulfrog points at slow speed. I opened it up and found the pickups are a bit odd it is hard to get them to touch both the front and back wheel. It is like a a see-saw you push down the front pick up to nicely contact the wheel and the one at the back rises up and risks not having a connection. I am thinking of getting some peco points to replace the Hornby ones as the plastic bit is smaller, will that make a difference?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

The real answer Chris is to use electrofrog points.

[@imaginebeinggood3471]

I have a few locos and they keep getting stuck on my points (insulfrog) thank you for A. Making me realise I’m not the only one and B. Saying how I can fix it PS. Do you have a video on wiring electro frog? Thanks

[@pukavita]

This may help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6WWp6ibmceNb5o Cheers.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

No Dylan, but I shall put one together. Regards Charlie

[@samjdowling]

Can you mix electro points and insul points on the same layout with no problems?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, no problems at all Samuel.

[@jamesnystrom7160]

i would like to know witch one would be the best to use without having any problems.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sorry James, but they both have their disadvantages. Electrofrog are far better but more complicated to wire. Good luck with your layout.

[@leonsmoker9315]

Question, I have put together a switching line using peco Insulfrogs switches now entering the switches by way of wing rail side of the switch the locomotive will stop then start moving each an every time but I am now running locomotive entering the stock rail side of the switch and is no hesitation, Is there any suggestion on how to fix that problem

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m sorry Leon, but I have no idea. Regards Charlie

[@NirateGoel]

I'm a bit confused now, the insulfrogs look similar to the Hornby ones which direct power either to the sidding or main line but on PECO's site it seems that the electrofrogs do that while the insulfrogs power both....

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m sorry but I’m no expert on Hornby points. I only buy Peco and they are made in the UK.

[@jamesborg4279]

Hey champ what do u use too clean ur tracks?

[@kiwitrainguy]

Smoke fluid and a track-cleaning car.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Inox. Regards Charlie

[@rossmorrow3013]

Good evening Charlie, I’m not ever intending to move my layout about, but I’ve bought a Peco trackplan booklet Dorman ideas. For an ‘ordinary’ punter I was firstly: 1. Begin by buying into DCC control as I’m not too hot separating circuits all over the place. 2. I was thinking of buying the Hornby track in all its various formats, but having watched your excellent videos I’m now more inclined towards Peco 3. But which Peco does the likes of me buy into overall ie ordinary straight track, points etc 4. Will Peco run with DCC, lastly, there’s an enormous selection of DCC controllers, Hornby, Bachmann, Fleischmann, Gaugemaster and countless others, Is there a general all round-ish good controller. 5. My board size is 8’x4’ and I’ll maybe get up to 8 or 10 trains plus carriages and wagons .....eventually 6. Is trying not to buy into something and realise you’ve bought a dud!! Apologies for long ramble Yours sincerely ross

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Ross, I think a good idea is for you to buy the Peco Track Plans book. That should show you how the track geometry works. But which controller is much harder and I’m no expert on entry level systems. Perhaps speak with Justin at Digitrains. He will give you some impartial advice Regards Charlie

[@rossmorrow3013]

Good evening Charlie, I really appreciated your kind , prompt and helpful advice in what is a very busy work schedule. Yours sincerely, ross

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Glad to help but please subscribe.

[@oliversinton948]

In what way are they more complicated to wire up?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

The need to switch the frog.

[@oliversinton948]

@@ChadwickModelRailway ok thanks

[@leeedsonetwo]

Are there reasons against electrofrog ?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Price and experience.

[@antonymcgowan8875]

Just started Model Railways after some time out most of my track is Hornby 00 gauges and my points are insulfrog as for my birthday I was bought some gaugemaster points motors the PM1 with a polarity switch can I still use them and how would you wire them up to a switch

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Just wire them ignoring the polarity switch. It’s provided should you chose to use Electrofrog points instead.

[@angusdassler3052]

My little Baldwin 0-6-0 stops most of every time on my Bachmann E-Z track insulfrog.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m afraid that is the risk we take with short wheelbase locos on insulfrog points. Regards Charlie

[@michaeltee7004]

Hi Charlie I'm hoping you maybe able to help. I just finished watching Everard Junction video on installing seep polnt motors. He has 2 bus wires one FCC for the track and the other dc for operating the points. He is using code 100 electrofrog points. Now I was able to follow the video okay but two questions I wanted to ask which unfortunately I was unable to contact Chris of Everard Junction. He soldered a green wire to the frog but happens to the wire that is attached to the point underneath. Also I know you are supposed to cut two bits under the point and solder two other bits, but no of this was mentioned. I know Everard is nothing to do with you but I would appreciate your help. Many thanks Mike Tee

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Mike, please watch last weeks video concerning Super Elevation, this should sort out the alterations to electrofrog points. I’ve no idea how Richard (not Chris) wires his points, hopefully he will reply. Regards Charlie

[@jankochanowski3252]

Hi! You have a Hornby 00 gauge engine (1:76 scale) and you use Piko H0 (1:87 scale) tracks? do I understand this well?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Jan, Manufacturers for the British market, produce OO Gauge rolling stock which run on HO track. Strange but true.

[@jankochanowski3252]

Ah, you are talking about British PEKO an I mean German PIKO. I am wondering if the German Piko, Roco, Fleischmann and so on H0 tracks will fit to Bristisch 00 gauge engins.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Jan, Yes I was talking about Peco track which I believe is actually HO scale. In the UK there are modellers which specialise in EM scale which is true OO. Regards Charlie

[@TheTelstar008]

Hello Jan, I run both British OO gauge/scale and American HO scale trains on Peco code 100 track with the gauge being 16:5mm which is in fact closer to HO scale of 1:87 than it is of OO scale being 1:76. All my American outline locomotives run well on the Peco track apart from a Trix HO class 4000 Big boy engine that lifts up when crossing Peco points/switches which I need to resolve at some stage, but my Broadway Limited and MTH Big boys passes over the Peco track and points/switches without any problems what so ever.

[@davidspottiswoode3831]

You know your points ! Have you had experience with unifrog points, which seem to be taking over?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. No I haven’t used them but I believe that currently that are only available in the bull head track range. And they’re s bit pricey! Regards Charlie

[@davidspottiswoode3831]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks, Charlie. I am modelling in N gauge and it appears that I can only get certain points in unifrog... I'll bash on and see where it takes me 😀 Al best D

[@rhiwderinraytube]

Hi Charlie. Thanks for the video. What are inches?? :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sorry Ray, I’m 59 and should know better. Regards Charlie

[@kiwitrainguy]

Call it 18 mm and 21 mm.

[@kiwitrainguy]

I think the reason why Insulfrog points don't look as nice is because the plastic used for insulating the rails is the same colour as the plastic used in the sleepers. If they used white or silver-coloured plastic instead they wouldn't look so bad.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A good point Kiwi.

[@austinmilich648]

It might just be incredibly dirty wheels but a lot of my large steam locos can’t get over insulfrog points.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That's the point of Electrofrog. Excuse the pun Austin.

[@C-MAGs]

Love all your videos. Please excuse my ignorance though when I ask, If electrofrog points are the best, why does insulfrog points still exist? Is there a case or scenario where only insulfrog will do? Thank you.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I believe insulfrog was at first, all you could buy. With people still buying them, they have never been discontinued. Primarily, I suppose they were aimed at the train set market. Regards Charlie

[@mirageinthedesert5448]

Hamish MacMonster for beginners

[@djwarren5081]

I would have said it's because the wiring (for DC) becomes simpler, as sidings become isolated depending on how the points are set. No need to have isolated sections.

[@dylanhale7300]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Also most modern locomotives have more pickups than ever before so there isn't such a need for Electrofrog points if your buying all new stuff, especially here in the states where small tank engines are rare...

[@cva6238]

Insulfrog works great when the locomotives are properly designed and built to the proper spec. Some say short engines will not work well, yet my S2 chugs right through transversing the small gap with no issues. The wheelbase is much longer then the gap. Now, if a loco is not picking up power on all the wheels it is supposed to, or if the wheels are sloppy fitting and permitting a short circuit at the frog point then fix the locomotive. One of the cardinal rules of model railroading and life in general is keep it simple. Keep your wiring simple.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Good advice for all

[@terryflynn8830]

Electro frogs as shown in Charlies viedo is the best solution. The only way to get reliable runing for 0-4-0 locomotives using insulfrog turnouts is to use DCC and storage capicators or batteries .

[@vikingsmb]

evening star needs oil

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Need a new Evening Star!

[@vikingsmb]

@@ChadwickModelRailway nothing wrong with tender driven locos :)

[@robinpoulton3352]

Electrofrogs are all very well but if like me you are completely useless at soldering what do you do then

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I hate to say this Robin, but practice. We are all rubbish when we start. Regards, Charlie

[@christtking894]

I don't know about you Brits but you guys confuse a lot of people the way you pronounce PECO, it sure sounds like PIKO

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Two wonderful nations separated by a common language! Soldering is the one that makes me smile.

[@kiwitrainguy]

Both PECO & PIKO are supposed to be pronounced "Pee-coe". I have both brands on my layout - Peco points and Piko rolling stock.