Change Front Fork Seals set oil level 600RR R6 ZX6R CBR R1 1000

[@lightningmcqueen181]

Ive got a "STIFFY" over his man cave! Certainly makes life much easier when you have the ability to machine speciality tools... I am not ashamed to say I envy this man lol..

[@DiceyMike]

I'm so glad you make these videos, I've got to tackle this soon. This one is incredibly helpful. Thank you so much Scott!

[@backho12]

Nice video with good content. I'd like to add that heating the fork tube in the seal area with a heat gun makes removing and installing the bushing/seal much easier.

[@ScottElliott152]

+backho12 Thanks mate. The heat gun is a good idea ... thanks for posting. It's good to share the knowledge we all have. That way we all get a bit smarter! Regards, Scott

[@ScottElliott152]

Yes a little heat can make it easier.

[@650hpreventon]

still do track days when you hit these age. man i shoukd tell people stop thinking its dangerous to ride a bike. look at Scott. im pleasted to see someone just keeps riding. i commited to ride all my life.

[@ScottElliott152]

+Kawaii Ninja ... Thanks. The trick is to keep up the fitness training and keep riding. If you stop you lose it quickly. I'll keep track riding until I physically can't do it. It keeps the brain sharp because at the speeds we do you have to process a fair bit of information. No dementia for me I hope.

[@chiefster1811]

Top video. Thank you very much :). Completed 1 side on my CBR. Halfway through on the other 1 now. Done loads of work on mine thanks to your videos. I much appreciate for sharing you're knowledge. Cheers:)

[@ScottElliott152]

Thanks mate.

[@IndridCole1]

Thanks for the awesome info and howto vidoes.. I have learned so much from your work.. Big thumbs up, you now have a new subscriber.. Cheers..Also a CBR600RR man here..

[@ScottElliott152]

Thanks Ingrid for the kind words.

[@alderinerush]

You make it so easy for us. 🙏

[@ScottElliott152]

Lol ... Thanks.

[@TheKrygsman]

Always good info, thanks.

[@ScottElliott152]

TheKrygsman Thanks mate.

[@MrSimon9100]

This is an awesome video with so much info! What if i decide to only replace the oil, should i just unbolt the 8mm bolt on the bottom and open the cap on the top to let it all out, clean it with a little bit of cleaning product or somthing and fill it back up again after?

[@ScottElliott152]

Simon if you do that the old oil will still be in the cartridges. They hold a lot of oil. The only way to change the fork oil properly is to remove the cartridges to. Scott

[@MrSimon9100]

Ok thanks for the response, I'll get to work right away :D

[@gibronnaqeelandries3406]

SlId u set the suspension all the way to soft before removing the cartridge or cap?

[@pepperjackshack2439]

one other question, if i want to just replace the inner fork components and not mess with the canister part is that possible or would i have to drain the oil from the canister like you show at 11:00? i think my seals are just blown to be honest so im thinking about just keeping the canister in a position to prevent it from leaking while i service the forks.

[@pepperjackshack2439]

i just dont have the tools i think to compress the spring back when reassembling the cartridge

[@ScottElliott152]

Yes you can. It's not ideal because you'll be only renewing probably less than 50% of the fork oil. You won't be able to set the level because your cartridges will still be assembled. So carefully measure what you drain out so you can replace the same amount with new oil. I'd recommend you buy a manual spring compressor. Its a good idea to change your fork oil often to keep them in good shape. As my bikes are track machines I change the fork oil every 15 to 20 hours of use: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-Tools-6353-Fork-Spring-Compressor-Motorcycle-/272227528629?hash=item3f62066fb5:g:QjwAAOSw5b1XIyhC I made one as they are simple. Or you can get one of these: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sealey-Motorcycle-Fork-Spring-Compressor-MS1824-/172145310507?hash=item2814a8fb2b:g:KpYAAOSww3tY4z4B

[@noelchristophersanchez3863]

Ur the man mate, ive kearned alot👍👍👍👍

[@ScottElliott152]

Thanks Noel.

[@YouMyBoyBlue]

Awesome Tutorial! Im rebuilding the front of mine so its a DYI job ALL the way for me. What size fork driver are you using?

[@ScottElliott152]

41mm inner tubes. The OD is 54mm and ID 41mm and a bit.

[@cortez7467]

Good video Scott really do appreciate the step by step comes in handy I was wondering what did you use to make tool for pulling cartridge out from the middle of the spring & how the wrench was able to lock spring into place ??

[@ScottElliott152]

+cortez7467 Thanks for the compliment. Remember I have the Ohlins Road & Track cartridges as it's a race bike. The tool you refer was made from an old hollow Honda front axle with a nut welded to the end. The Ohlins cartridge is designed to be quickly pulled apart track side to change springs hence the 19mm wrench method. It's too hard to explain but the cartridge is designed with a lip to enable the wrench to be slipped in. Watch the video again closely.

[@cortez7467]

+Scott Elliott aahh I forgot bout the Ohlins . . . . . well would it still be the same procedures for a stock cartridge ??

[@ScottElliott152]

+cortez7467 Nope ... the standard cartridges require spring compressor to remove the spring. That's one of the concepts of the Ohlins cartridge is simplicity for quick spring changes at the track. You can use one of these but will require an assistant: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Fork-Spring-Compressor-and-Damper-Rod-Holding-Tool-Kit-mfsc-/261984053772?hash=item3cff776a0c:g:XokAAOSwYlJW3N8k or take the cartridge out and use one of these: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcycle-Spring-compressor-for-USD-Forks-Upside-Down-Suspension-switch-/231821973554?hash=item35f9aa9832:g:XecAAOSw-vlVibp~ I have both types but I made them myself.

[@cortez7467]

+Scott Elliott man I really do appreciate the info had nicks on left tube in which they made seal tear up & leak bad so I have to replace the tube & that alone put a dent in wallet & DIY is always cheaper than mechanic charging $85hr.

[@ScottElliott152]

+cortez7467 DIY is better because you'll do a better job. I always get nicks on the tubes due to small rocks being flicked up from bikes in front at 200km/hr. The way to fix is use wet and dry sand paper to smooth the sharp edges. Finish of with 1500 and 2000 grit to get it nice and smooth. I've done it for years. You don't normally need to replace the tubes due to small nicks contrary to what the trade will tell you. Be careful with opinionated talking heads behind the dealers parts desk.

[@alderinerush]

I am doing the fork seal job right now. Service manual says fork fluid level of 93mm. You are setting it at 170mm. How should I go about it? Manual mentions fluid capacity as 413 cm3 I guess that means around 400ml.

[@ScottElliott152]

I have Ohlins 30mm cartridges which I mention in the video. Standard cartridges have the oil level at 93mm as you mentioned. It's best to set a level to get the right air gap rather than use volume.

[@alderinerush]

@@ScottElliott152 ohh got it. You have ohlins. Was trying to remember so many things and missed that bit 😬. Unfortunately, I couldn't finish the job today as didn't had seal driver and the seal wouldn't go in with my makeshift tool. I'll try tomorrow with something better and set the 93mm air gap. Thanks for quick response ❤️

[@ScottElliott152]

@@alderinerush ok good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

[@alderinerush]

@@ScottElliott152 Job Done! Made the suspension setting as it was before and it feels more compliant now. The forks were serviced after 15,000 km. Now that I know how to do it, I'll be changing oil much earlier and not wait for seals to give up. Your video was of great help...thankyou :)

[@ScottElliott152]

@@alderinerush Thankyou. I blew a fork seal last Sunday at a track day. I've pulled the forks out and dismantled ready for new seals and bushings when they arrive next week. 15,000km is too long before changing the fork oil. For a road bike I'd be changing it at least every second year.

[@TheBrandorambo]

Jeremy Wade?

[@mariohillebrand9348]

Is the 300 milliliters of oil and the 170mm that have to remain with air also correct for forks with original Honda cartridges? Awesome video btw :)

[@ScottElliott152]

Thanks. No the original cartridges require more oil and a 90mm air gap. Scott

[@mariohillebrand9348]

Okay, trank you very much Mister:)

[@eclipse081994]

What size nut and thread did you use to make your compressor tool?

[@ScottElliott152]

It's a M12 x 1.25 thread pitch. They're a bit hard to get from normal outlets. You may have to go to a special nut and bolt vendor. Scott

[@eclipse081994]

Scott Elliott thanks

[@readyplayer1363]

Can the axel holder be replaced?

[@ScottElliott152]

You can change the bottom sliding part of the fork that the axle clamps into.

[@FrenchieYang12]

hey scott its been a while.. i just wanted to share what i came upon on my journey of fixing these forks.. 1. i followed what the service manual said by setting everything to soft and i screwed up big time on my rebound.. lol i had to set it back to hard and restarted. 2. im not too sure but preload, compression, and rebound are all not exact on every hit.. probably off by a tiny turn or so.. idk if that is normal but both forks are quite exact.. example.. 14 preload adjust to 15 , rebound had about 4 and other had 4.10, compression has 3 and 1/4 on both.. 3. idk but when trying to tighten up the piston valve on top.. h0ly crap.. toughest thing ever because the tubes keep spinning... any tips??

[@FrenchieYang12]

+FrenchieYang12 correct me if im wrong.. manual told me air should be 93mm... for stock..

[@ScottElliott152]

+FrenchieYang12 I'm not sure what you mean by piston valve?

[@ScottElliott152]

+FrenchieYang12 Yes about 90mm is what the sir gap should be for the stock cartridges

[@FrenchieYang12]

+Scott Elliott my apologies... what i mean is the fork caps

[@FrenchieYang12]

+Scott Elliott also one last thing.. knowing our fork caps im not gonna lie they are a pain in the butt... my preload is like 14.8/15. total count I got was 15. where would you go about to fix this.. I know you just gotta compress the cartridge and release the cap and jam nut and from there adjust.. but not exactly sure how to adjust the preload so I can get 15/15

[@greengarage5696]

Volume oli shock ...???

[@ScottElliott152]

You set an oil level not pour in a volume. It's important to make the air gap correct because the fork is a combined mechanical and air spring. I can't tell you a volume as I only ever set an oil level.

[@FrenchieYang12]

I'm a little confused? So you're suppose to put in 300ML but you sucked out some to make it 170ML? So what's the amount you're suppose to keep in the Honda?

[@ScottElliott152]

+FrenchieYang12 Frenchie you set an oil level not a volume. A motorcycle front fork is a composite mechanical and air spring. The process is to pour the approximate amount of oil into the fork and using the sucking tool you withdraw the excess to get the required oil level. The level is always measured from the top of the outer tube with the inner tube fully inserted or collapsed if that makes sense. You'll notice the green bottle has a plastic tube with a cable tie set to the level I want. In the case of the Ohlins 30mm R&T cartridges I use a level of 170mm. The level is always taken with the spring and spacers out. Watch carefully from 17.45. I say "I have a cable tie set at 170 mm" maybe it's my Australian accent :-) You can adjust bottoming resistance by changing the oil level ... a higher level gives a stiffer air spring. It's very progressive so it doesn't really come into effect until near the bottom of the stroke. If you're running standard Honda cartridges the oil level is usually set at 90mm ... again with no spring or spacer. I hope this clarifies your question. Regards, Scott

[@FrenchieYang12]

sorry I'm learning still.. a little confuse. can i by chance msg you via FaceBook. I'm racing the same bike but learning slowly to save money

[@ScottElliott152]

+FrenchieYang12 Yes you'll need to take control and DIY or you'll run out of money real quick. Can you msg me here as the information helps others. I'm not much of a FB fellow.

[@FrenchieYang12]

okay so heres the thing. in the manual, it tells you 14oz is the amount you need. i have OEM internals but like i said I'm really new so i don't really understand the syringe thing and the numbers you use. i watch video with dave moss or others but they don't go in details so i get confuse. it seems like they fill the fluid up to the top and syringe out a certain amount according to what i watch. please correct me on anything i say. i have so much more to ask if you don't mind... i was watching dave moss do 06/07 r6 front forks.. curious are they similar to cbr in removal.. okay how he did it.. he loosen the top. use the spring compressor, remove rebound spacer and the damper, and for some reason he just pulls the lower part of the forks and it just comes off... with our cbr it when pulling off the whole bushing and everything comes off.... what I'm trying to figure out is..if i do the same way as the r6.. would i be able to pull the bottom half of the front forks off without disturbing the bushings.???

[@ScottElliott152]

+FrenchieYang12 Frenchie the CBR is different. The video shows how to remove the inner tube. The seal and bushings come out with the inner tube after removing the dust cap and the inner snap ring. You need a couple of sharp pulls to get it out. The manual says 14oz but you need to be more precise for track work. My manual says 14oz but it also states a level of 90mm when using standard cartridges. Dave Moss uses a similar syringe/sucking tool to set a level. I always improvise to save cash and save the planet. If you're changing the oil set it at 90mm level with your standard cartridges. Make up a sucking tool with a plastic bottle and tubing with a cable tie to give you the correct length.

[@pepperjackshack2439]

where do you buy your seals?

[@ScottElliott152]

Kevin ... eBay is your friend. They're are plenty of suppliers if you search.

[@pepperjackshack2439]

i ended up finding the part numbers from the service manual and then found the OEM parts much easier! thanks for the quick reply, hope to change my 600rr seals this weekend or next!

[@pepperjackshack2439]

also i liked and subbed! you got good videos with helpful info!

[@pepperjackshack2439]

link to the fork seal parts??

[@ScottElliott152]

eBay is your friend ... search fork seals for your model.