2006/7 Yamaha R6 fork oil and seal change

www.DaveMossTuning.com
This is a very comprehensive step by step video on the entire procedure for the oil and seal change and tools needed, hence the video length. I'd rather have it be longer as that allows the watcher to pause the video along the way at important stages to then replicate the required task.

[@jackson1463]

As a mechanic this is probably the best content you can get. This man needs to be protected at all costs. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for your kind words. I sincerely appreciate the support!

[@BrianFrichette]

I have done my forks 4 times now and I break this video out every time. By the time I'm ready to do them again, I've already forgotten a point or two. Thus, I can only assume Dave has done this in the hundreds of times.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Please add a '0' to that :) Thanks for leveraging the content and doing the work yourself!

[@torreserven1070]

How much would this job cost? I don't have the time, area and tools.. or less I would do this myself. I had just bought my first bike with 19k on it.

[@af12667]

Great video, again! I did this on my FZ-09 about 8 months ago.. this video would have been so helpful back then. I managed to work it out but still learnt a lot from this video! Thanks Dave for "giving back" to motorcycles, a lot of people don't share their knowledge. Hope to get to meet you at a track sometime! Cheers!

[@bowlerball4246]

So much appreciation for this video Dave, I’ve just completed my first ever seal change on y 2013 R6, probably saved me £200 £300, and wasn’t as bad as I was expecting! Also used your installation video to re install the forks and used the installation video to put the front wheel on! Most helpful person on KZbin for this sort of stuff, PERIOD! Many thanks 🙏

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Glad it helped and thanks for using the videos to help you do the job yourself!

[@SeanLeonDrumz]

Most comprehensive video ive seen on fork seal/oil change. Quality! thank you so much for sharing.

[@M1000RR]

I don't even need to do this or even have an R6 (yet) but that was so interesting and informative to watch.

[@MrSimon9100]

Me to man, this is one of the most interresting channels on youtube for my preferences :D

[@orionalan]

you must have a lot of time on your hands

[@MrSimon9100]

Hank Alan if you are interrested in somthing you will make time ;-) In the meantime some guy i know showed me how to do it with the forks of my cbr 600 rr track bike and really, its not that hard. It seems intimidating when you watch youtube but it all falls together after you’ve done it yourself.

[@Ladosligese]

same here .. no bike yet .. closing in on 42 .. thinking of getting me the license and a bike .. i might be to old to start tho ..

[@M1000RR]

@@Ladosligese damn I just realised I posted that comment four years ago.. since then I've had an R6, s1000rr, and now a new s1000rr 😄 you are never too old.. please start riding, you'll discover a new way of life!

[@wsvitak]

Never realized how involved it was. With the right tools it seems pretty straightforward. Thanks for the informative video.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

It is very straight forward especially if you use the pause button at the right time :)

[@derrickjackson2310]

Awesome step-by-step walk through. Dave you're the best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for doing it with every little detail.

[@jilleswielaard4244]

Replaced the oil and seals this week using this video! Thanks Dave!

[@MattJFilms]

Thank you so much Dave for sharing your knowledge with all of us! Your work and videos are second to none!

[@bloodytushy]

wanted to say thank you for the video dave. changed my seals in no time and saved me a chunk of change I didn't have. only thing I did different was used the old seals to press in the new ones. no more leaks, thanks again!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Excellent and great improvisation with the old seals :)

[@alainbijou5281]

I did my forks yesterday with this video you have no idea how much your tutorial helped. YOU ARE THE MAN !!!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for rolling your sleeves up and getting to work!

[@stevenneil4998]

Another successful job thanks to Dave Moss. All you have to do is follow the directions. Thanks, Dave.

[@paulerice3342]

I can not thank you enough for such a great "how-to". you either get a video that's too short and skips alot of important items or you get a REALLT Long video that spends the first 35 minutes explaining what a washer is then another 35 minutes explaining where the word "washer" came from... so my point is, your video was perfect. no extra BS, explained every step and displayed every step of the process. you made my fork job seem as easy as you were doing it thank you again.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks Paul. I try to balance thoroughness with being concise. Still working on it :) Glad the video made the task easy to do.

[@jaylawrence5768]

Excellent instructional video. Competent and comprehensive explanations on a step by step basis without any oops. If I were an apprentice I would love to be working in your shop. Thank you for taking the time to do this presentation. I will look for others by when the time comes.

[@2A5X4A]

Thank you for the detailed video! I was going to pay a shop to do it but after watch the video I think I can do it myself! Thank you very much!

[@fostytou]

Great video! If you don't have a rebound rod holder I'm pretty sure you can also set the compression to maximum to (mostly) prevent the rod from falling while you reassemble it.

[@1sickkidd9]

Give this man an award! 🏆

[@JR-rn7jn]

I just went and got my suspension tune by Dave today and just happened upon this video while looking for how to replace my fork cap.

[@jansun84]

Best how-to videos i've seen in ages. Thanks!!

[@vlamsamsam]

Love the technical explanation of the forks! Thanks for sharing!

[@TreePeople23]

Dave you are the best. Great video. Thank you so much sir. Forks, here I come.

[@th3s41nt]

That’s who you look like!!!! This whole time I was like he looks familiar! You look like Michael Rooker!!! And thank you for setting up my suspension, it was great to meet you

[@FuKingRiders]

I am about to buy r6 07 model, and this video is very much helpfull! Thanks Dave 👌🏻

[@TommyPanigale]

incredible video. thank you for the free lesson!

[@romanpastuchsr2319]

Brilliant video production, Dave. Thank you.

[@BigPaPaRu]

Thank for all this amazing content you have given us. You may be one of the most helpful people on KZbin.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I appreciate that!

[@alemaozinho45]

@@catalystreactionsbw what is the difference in suspension from R6 06-07 to 08- I have a 06, I need to replace the tubes because one is damaged, I found several suspensions 08-, is there any special suspension that is compatible with my bike?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@alemaozinho45 They are the same other than 08 and beyond being 10mm longer

[@sylvandespres7654]

holly crap!! by far far the best tutorial i've ever seen!! super clear explanations,very articulate ,well...MR MOSS...i think we can say you're the very best in that field,the creme of the creme.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for the kind words. It is reassuring to know the format, language and content as a whole take away the stress of doing the fork oil seal and change for those that want to give it a go!

[@OriginalBrett610]

Thanks for the very simple, easy to follow video!

[@wot48320]

Very informative video. Thanks Dave!

[@PistonSlap]

Good video Dave!

[@Scarletsb0y]

Dave, you are a God, once I have my BMW 850GS I will be getting a remote session with you to set her up. I love your content and style I think you are amazing and charging just $40 for 1 day is a steal !!!!!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks. I look forward to helping you.

[@peterbates4696]

The only thing missing was a nurse dabbing your brow.. and the sound of a heart beat monitor... awesome vid Dave...

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks! It is a process for sure and that trailer was toasty at the time of filming.

[@milwaukeecustomcycles8656]

Well presented and thorough. Bravo. Enjoyed watching.

[@starq_starq]

Mr Dave - thanks this move I made my bike muuuuuuuch better. Thanks a lot

[@hardluckclub7271]

great video and well done describing what is being done! wish i could tackle something like this myself. bought a 06 r6 couple weeks ago and just noticed decent leak on my left fork. guess i'm gonna have someone do both while it's in the shop. figured why just do one.

[@jaysonwall3573]

this video helped a lot just replaced both fork seals yesterday

[@catalystreactionsbw]

thank you very much for getting fresh oil and seals in your bike. You should notice the difference in fork action and bump compliance.

[@kjhbigv1]

Excellent video, you make that look so easy!

[@jimjames8234]

you are the man, Dave.

[@greenmarine5]

as always your videos are top notch, you have helped me do so much to my CBR, Thank you

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you very much for sharing your kind words, and most importantly for wanting to learn

[@07codeAKAArunLama]

what would you suggest for stripped threads on oil pan?oversized bolt,time sert or replacing the oil pan.Thanks in advance

[@tieNagle]

perfect how-to, thank you!

[@stefansoderstrom]

My go-to when doing fork seals!

[@martymcgrogan]

Dave, what a great public service!!! But an intimidating job for an intermediate home pro... Think I`ll pay for this one.

[@magellanicspaceclouds]

Dave Moss is the man!

[@misterisaac7428]

Fantastic explanation 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 thank you for uploading.

[@atatopatato]

the best 30 mins of my life

[@budmiller3823]

Very informative. Thanks, Dave!

[@streetmachine8211]

Thank you for an excellent video!

[@mxgryan]

such great info. Earned a sub from me, Dave!

[@kyore789]

Everything explained perfectly and for my exact bike. Let me know I definitely need to take mine to a shop cuz this is out of my league.

[@KeithFox]

15:14 Would the seal get damaged if you spray WD-40 or PB Blaster (some type of cleaner) in that groove? How often should these fork seals and oil be changed? I have an 08 R6 and was just curious. I don't do any wheelies on it either so the life of the forks should be longer right? I really enjoy this video, lot of information. I had no idea how to do this job and no idea it was this complicating. that's probably why it rarely gets changed on used bikes.

[@harryohanson]

Dave, I really appreciate your video! Thank you! I would like to ask where did you get the attachments for your work table like the drain pan and for the support that swivel under your bench?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for the kind words! All of that was hand made by Dave Hodges

[@Sanfterhund]

Thank you Dave love you videos!

[@jerryx2000]

Dave after uninstalling the fork would you use chain cleaner to clean the inside of the suspension? To wash out the old oil & dirt.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you are talking about the inner fork leg itself with the cartridge removed, I've used kerosene before with a long bottle brush. If the cartridge is still inside, warmed very thin sowing machine oil is great at loosening up debris.

[@davenzl123]

What about blasting the spring, spacer, compression piston, etc with kero? What about popping some kero in the fork leg and pumping it out the compression hole with the damper rod?

[@potheadpixi]

Dave Newell I wouldn't recommend filling the damper circuit with kerosene as you'll probably never get it all out without fully stripping the fork internals. The kerosene will affect the fork oil viscosity and can damage rubber seals etc.

[@ylism]

Really enjoyed the video, have been considering a fork change to R6 forks of that vintage. Do you think the R6 forks are a better fork for adjustability, than say a GSX-r showa, and or KYB set ? It would be swapped onto a SV650 ...Thanks much. yl

[@keithstephens756]

Tip ..make sure your bushings are not wore or you will be killing your time and hard work!!and the spring is narrow on one end which fits the preload spacer

[@undercover3004]

Thanks for sharing that much of great and professional work in your videos.✌️

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Glad you like them!

[@1970PMD]

Is the oil level of 115 mm standard measurement for these upside down forks? Showa and such?

[@carlosb425]

Muy bueno y completo 👍. Thanks DAVE

[@AUTOLANDINCFredericksburg]

Hey Dave I'll be doing this on my 08 here pretty soon! Are there any differences in the forks from the 06/07 to the 08+ any additional steps or tips?

[@Knightlore10]

Auto Land Inc. Appreciate this was 2 years ago but did you complete this job on your 08 R6 and did you find the procedure to be the same? Minor changes to the front forks are listed among the differences between the 06/07 and 08 bike so it would be good to know if the procedure is the same as this video?

[@michaelschuler7397]

I just did 2007 r6 it’s the same

[@gibronnaqeelandries3406]

hey guys this video seem great will it be enough to tackle cbr929 seals how much difference in the process

[@savagebimmer8763]

phenomenal video thanks for the valuable info

[@ghawrot1]

Hi Buddy. I have just one question. In fz1n 2009 is it posible to twist upper tube when you relise pinch bolts in yokes? I have some scratches on them and I would spn them a litle bit ...

[@aslanshay]

Wow.. Such a professional!

[@blue03r6]

not trying to nit pick but you used the wrench backward when you tightened the compression valve assembly. this is just for anyone reading this to help them learn to compliment this excellent instructional video. the wrench is designed to be used the other direction. if used on something that requires higher torque you can slip the wrench and round off the nut/bolt. the sliding part always toward the direction of force. this puts the edge of the bolt head that receives the torque at the rear of the tool's jaw which is stronger and doesn't flex. if used how dave used it the jaw will flex and allow excessive amount of slop on the bolt head and round it off when it receives high torque.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Excellent tip! Thank you for contributing. That is a pristine example of constructive criticism. Much appreciated.

[@keithstephens756]

Just use vise grips. Use either way if it's clamped hard enough to leave teeth marks

[@herbertXX]

very good your work i am here from Brazil, few mechanics have this knowledge, my congratulations

[@esaurica]

Great, thanks Dave!

[@vcmcrew]

Sorry mr moss these fork seals you showed are NOT for the 06/07 Yamaha r6. The OEM part number is 5vy-23145-00 the , fork seal you show here has the spring on top of the seal with writing, the seal I posted has the spring on bottom and there is no offset for this seal. This seal is a 41x53x11..the type of seal you showed in this video is a 9.5/10 which explains that offset.. Which the 2007 R1s are

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for your post and information for others to leverage.

[@FranciscoJavier-pf1ir]

Amazing... Great job!!

[@TrackSol]

Dave, thanks for the great video. What type of oil level tool are you using? I use the common syringe type and they are mostly more trouble than they are worth.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The oil level tool is from Race Tech. The syringe is good if you keep the rubber part dry and yes, it is a pain to keep taking it out and cleaning it. I've had the Race Tech tool for several years now.

[@mcdk72]

Hello Dave. Do you have video related to the old gs1150 bikes? Kind regards Morten.

[@bryanharrison3889]

genius at work.

[@mc7823]

Great video Dave. Very informative. I noticed you polished the chrome tube with some 400 grit sand paper/cloth. Is this just regular 400 grit abrasive paper or some special item needed. Any risk for the Chrome ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

With chrome there is no risk and I have been polishing chrome tubes this way since the mid 90's. We have always use 400 grit emery cloth that comes in a 1" roll as a strip so we only use what is needed. If you wanted a very fine finish you can use 600 grit. Note that I don't put a huge amount of energy into the polishing task nor spend a long time doing it. All other fork surface coatings cannot have any form of abrasive cloth on them.

[@mc7823]

Thanks for your response Dave, really appreciate it. Love your videos and hope I can visit some day. Greetings from France. Mark

[@therealmrcheese]

so which plonker pressed the dislike button by mistake! !??

[@lm0315]

+therealmrcheese I was thinking the exact same thing!!! This is one of the most clear and concise how to videos I have ever seen on fork seals. Excellent video!

[@therealmrcheese]

+lm0315 I know and some other plinker has pressed the wrong button now to! wasn't you was it!! lol

[@therealmrcheese]

+therealmrcheese grrrr spell check is the worst invention ever!!! PLONKER!

[@therealmrcheese]

+therealmrcheese grrrr spell check is the worst invention ever!!! PLONKER!

[@DevInvest]

therealmrcheese Honda rider? maybe? - my only guess? Lol

[@starq_starq]

really good job Man

[@daviddoan6485]

Dave, on the fork seal the side with the "lip or writing on it" when installed is facing down towards the ground correct?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes, correct!

[@BIGGZ46]

Another great video! Question, is it possible to remove the spring and top cap as one unit and not compress the spring or remove the cap?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Not with these forks. If there is a hidden allen bolt in the axle casting housing, yes you can do that. It is VERY MESSY indeed and a huge clean up operation.

[@gasparaccastello938]

Muchas gracias por el video , fue de suma utilidad, realize un exelente trabajo gracias a la instrucción detallada , abrazo grande y mis mejores deseos para este año , saludos desde Bell ville Córdoba Argentina..

[@roninmantis7584]

Well done! Great insight into if I want to tackle this job or not. I assume the process is similar for the R1 (2007).

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes, correct.

[@christiantrudeau8369]

Dave, Thanks for the video ... Ive disassembled one fork and had the washer come out after I removed the spring. In the video you mentioned it, but yours never came out. I assume in re-assembly I put it in before the loading the spring. Anything else I should watch for ? Christian

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Christian. Put the washer in before the you pour in oil.

[@lukeschaeffer2551]

Hey Dave. I changed the fork seals a couple summers ago. When pulling the rebound rods up and down there was a bit of resistance offered by left one when pulling up, but not the right one (this is with fluid completely drained). I'm guessing this is the cartridge? If so, do I need to replace the entire cartridge or is there a more cost friendly solution?

[@bccapone837]

great info thank you, do you have to do the same thing with the rebound clicks when putting back together on a hayabusa too and is there a way to get it wrong so you don't have the same factory clicks you started with

[@catalystreactionsbw]

You turn the rebound adjuster from all the way left to the correct number of clicks right. Install the cap until it bottoms out and bring the jam nut up to the cap and make it snug. Check your full range. if correct set at 6 clicks from maximum and tighten. Check range again.

[@bccapone837]

@@catalystreactionsbw brilliant thank you , so once fluid is in turn the rebound clockwise to it's maximum stock number and snug cap down and bring lock nut to cap and tighten, then bring it back to where u have it when I ride around 5-6 , do the cap up and check full range afterwards . I'm a bit nervous doing it because I'm worried they won't match up and give me equal rebound both sides but if they are different I'm sure there's a way to fix it , in my manual it says when installing cap to back off rebound to softest position and make sure there's 11mm of thread showing on rod above lock nut both forks and then install, your way makes sense tho because if I'm fully clockwise on rebound both needles will get snugged into top of rebound rod at the same height and not much can go wrong then I guess 😁👍🏼

[@ancephalus]

Hello Dave Moss Tuning. Very nice video. I learn a lot and more easily thanks to you. I did like on your video but I had Olhins oil (D43 19 Cst à 40°C ). With Olhins 1000g springs I come up against the big brakes with closed hydraulics -9 (air height 110 mm). I weigh 100 kilograms and have a 2006 R6. I made an air height of 115 mm. Will this solve my problem? or should I add thicker oil? I only ride on circuits Thanks again for what you do.

[@davidfinn9828]

Wondering if the replacing the top cap method is the same for older models ? ? Best clip on KZbin by far ,Dave you are a great teacher 👍

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The process is the same for every OEM cap as long as you know how many turns or clicks you should have stock.

[@davidfinn9828]

@@catalystreactionsbw thanks a million , bought a R6 and the seals need doing , going to do them my self 👍

[@dylanbentley1687]

Just curious to know my rebound tops out at 33 clicks What would you recommend? would you go all the way to 50 clicks.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

With any adjuster we have "range" ie: where it works and where it does not. In this case the rebound adjuster generally works from 20-25 clicks in from all the way out so there is no reason to set the range to 50. A total of 30 makes much more sense.

[@Neelis23]

Hi Dave, super interesting video, motivating as well to do this myself. I have a question regarding my '14 Tuono. This has the compression in the left leg and rebound in the right leg. The service manual does not indicate the amount of clicks (range) I should have for the setting screws. How do I know what the range should be? Do you know it? Compression is set at 13 clicks out of 16 is my preferred setting. The previous owner got the forks serviced, but I am not sure it was done properly, considering the current of 13 our of 16 clicks.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If the forks have less than 6,000 miles on them since the last service, the oil chosen was correct. Rebound is normally 6-8 clicks out so try 12, 9 and 6 to see what you prefer.

[@Neelis23]

@@catalystreactionsbw hi Dave, thanks for your reply. I checked my settings this evening to be sure and this is what they are: Compression: 18 clicks open out of 20 Rebound: 6 clicks open out of 18 This setting was applied by a specialist in Holland and I can confirm I like this setting. The specialist mentioned the compression leg does have a LOT of/too much compression. For sure the bike has not driven 6000 miles since the service. I will service the fork soon, should I set the rebound side to a range of 20 clicks? And what do you think is going on in the compression leg? Oil too thick or air chamber to small?

[@R6CPX]

Love the video Dave, was great to actually get stuck into doing the forks and learning along the way! Quick question, do both forks on a R6 06’ have a damper rod?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for taking the time to comment! Yes - both do. The big giveaway is preload on one cap and damping for COM and TEN in the other side.

[@NathanTBlack]

I take it skipping the polishing with the 400 grit cloth can cause an imperfection in the stanchion to damage a new fork seal? I recently changed a fork seal and there’s already slight amounts of oil showing up on the stanchion. I did not polish the stanchion before reassembly.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Using the 400 grit (on chrome only) can catch an imperfection. Not using may allow a burr or insect exoskeleton to catch the fork seal and create a very minor tear. That being said, if the seal has a small amount of debris between it and the fork seal, it will leave enough of an air gap to create an oil ring. A seal saver will clean that out and if the oil sheen persists, then look at the chrome tube very closely.

[@plbyrne]

Thanks Dave - my son now has an R6 and we have to do this job so this video is perfect for us. One thing we did notice with our bike was there is very little difference between rebound full out and fully in. Fully out the forks do not "roll over the top" when compressed and released. Action is fairly quick though. Any thoughts ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

+Paul Byrne might be really old oil and a lot of stiction. Pull the forks up and see if the 'stick'. That will confirm striction.

[@plbyrne]

Dave Moss Tuning Thanks Dave - some stiction is evident. Will do full service as described. Thanks for posting this video.

[@matiasquaranta]

Hi Dave!! I have a R6 07, the service manual don't say if I have to use 5W or 10W oil. Could you tell me which is the equivalent to original oil? Thanks so much!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

We use 15w for track use and 10w for road use on that generation fork.

[@chrisdankston]

Hi Dave, Great video/tutorial, Sir! It made life easy following along step by step. Question - On these forks, based on the 24 clicks out / 7 turns in, what base setting would you recommend for the hi/low speed compression? Thanks!!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

High at 1.5 turns out, low between 6-10 clicks out.

[@XR-qs7mq]

Hi Dave, does the compression adjuster need to be filled to a certain spec? Also does it need to be adjusted all the way out before reassembly? (similar to the fork top nut)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

In single function forks, often COM at REB legs have different volumes and viscosities. Owner and service manuals are very clear on that. If you are bleeding the cartridge in either leg, install the thin rod inside the tube, then connect to rod tool and bottom it out.

[@Itzalwys1420]

Question.... I took my forks off and took them to my local dealer to have them replace the fluid and seals. Before I took it I made sure they were both at 26 clicks and had a full range of 50!! When i got them back i brought my flathead and counted the clicks. It has a TOTAL of 40 clicks now. What problems can or will that cause and what would you suggest I do? I dont have the special tool or a bench vise to do it myself !! Your input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Thanks in advance....

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Non realistically. Damping works at 15 clicks in from all the way out, so techincally if you got them at 35 clicks range, they would work right away with rebound.

[@Itzalwys1420]

Dave Moss Tuning Good to know since I wasn't sure... Thought the guy that did it might have messed up during the process. Thanks for the reply!

[@Kenshin_Tran]

Is it feasible to replace the fork bracket without buying an entirely new/used assembly with the silver sleeve or does it just make more sense to buy a new one entirely if your lower mounting bracket has some damaged pieces you want to swap with a new one?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

You can replace the fork bracket with a used one that is in good condition. It has to be done by someone experienced with the right tools.

[@IkarosCanFly]

Super Detailed!

[@ImTheWarTbR]

23:40 Do you turn the cap down until the rebound rod touches the adjuster in the cap or until the needle of the valve is fully closed?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Set the rebound needle correctly. Then screw the cap down until it bottoms out.

[@brettblackbird3259]

Great work :)

[@Catscratch13]

Dave thanks for the great video! Have a question about amount of clicks. Where did you find 50? I tried to find it in the service manual for Yamaha R6 2007 but found only 17 clicks on the page 3-29 (minimum value if the adjusting screw fully turned in). Actually I have Yamaha R6 2008 and service manual says 25 clicks.. Could you please clarify this monent?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The 06/07 and the 08 all had 50 clicks on the showroom bikes I worked on, so that sets the count for me. The working range is actually 30 clicks back from bottomed out so some want the full range whereas others want the effective range. Your choice, it is your bike :)

[@Catscratch13]

Dave Moss Tuning thanks for the answer

[@sarah1318]

Dave, what would be the difference and advantage/disadvantages of effective range verses full range? Bike is used for mostly canyon riding and freeway commuting, so nothing crazy. Thanks for any advise and answers, oh and awesome video btw, as a professional diesel mechanic it is such a huge sigh of relief to find instruction videos that make sense and are this well put together. Tend not to shy away from most things mechanical, but without any experience, and lack of trustworthy help, I was leaning towards just having it done, not any more, thanks again!

[@thesickening0169]

Wow Dave, thank you for this video. Absolutely excellent. I did this years ago to my 03 GSXR forks, basically without any special tools. What a total pain in the ass. Thinking about buying the fork spring compressor and a few other tools and giving it another go. Now aside from the compression valve, would this process be pretty much the same for stock ohlins forks on a 1098S? Would the emery cloth damage the coating on the inner fork tube? What oil height would I be looking for? Thank you as always Dave. And thanks to the man behind the camera, Dave Williams!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for the kind words. Yes, the process is similar on the Ohlins R&T forks. You ONLY use the emery cloth on chrome fork tubes - nothing else as it would destroy the coating.

[@thesickening0169]

Dave Moss Tuning Thanks for the reply Dave. I purchased a fork spring compressor, next will be the fork oil gauge, can't believe they go for +$100, crazy. Anyway, also looking at buying a decent bench vise. What kind of jaws are you using in this video and/or where can I find them? Again and as always, thank you for everything you and Dave Williams do. It is greatly appreciated!