As I state in the introduction ... some manufacturers recommend a pressure bleeder is used in cars with anti lock brakes (ABS) ... which is all cars these days. As for the reasoning I don't know so perhaps some google searching might shed some light on it. From experience I've found you can still do the old fashioned method by having an assistant pump the brake pedal, however a pressure bleeder is easier and it's a one person job.

Thanks Andrew.

Thank you for the kind words.

2006 W639 Vito LWB 115CDI

Thanks. You can buy on Aliexpress and the price varies depending on your choice but around $AUD600 for a HDD with the preloaded software and the multiplexer/cables. Search for MB Star C4. The easiest way is to buy the full package loaded onto a refurbished laptop for about $AUD1200 to $1500.

Thanks David.

@krisholt8390 Thanks Kris.

@phantomrenegade11 I'm assuming you have the standard Honda cartridges in the standard Honda forks ... so no, that's not normal.

​@ScottElliott152 what would be the reason behind it?

@phantomrenegade11 I'd take a guess your fork caps need the damping screw adjusters reset so they're both the same. I haven't done it for years because I've been running Ohlins 30mm R&T cartridges. I know you can download the workshop manual for 07/08 CBR600RR so that's worth referencing.

On my Nissan it added a slight amount of positive camber which was corrected with a wheel alignment. I'm not sure what your second question means ... do I prefer upper or lower arm ball joint so you need to clarify.

More detail! ... others have said there's too much.

At 1:59, I removed the earth lead first. Not only is it good practice, but it has to come off first to slide the battery out to get access to remove the +ve lead.

Thanks. To set the oil level the cartridge needs to have the spring removed hence a partial disassembly.

From what i can see. would you tighen the drain plug first. Then Disassemble the cartrige and set the oil level?

@@marcjianpastrana9707 There is no drain plug other than the lower bolt that secures the cartridge to the bottom of the forks. The video is a factual record of what I did.

Yes it's 236.3.

@@ScottElliott152 Thanks I have found that the 236.6 oil is sold by Febi in the UK.

@@dunk8157 For interest I use Penrite oils which are available in the UK. I use this power steering fluid in my Vito and W204 C320CDI. If you look under specifications it quotes MB236.3 and MB341. penriteoil.com.au/products/pas-fluid-power-assisted-steering-fluid I also use their engine, diff and auto transmission oils and their engine coolant all of which comply with the Mercedes MB numbers.

@@ScottElliott152 Thanks, I had a look and the Penrite is £24 in the UK, The Febi Bisltein part no 08972 was £7, I think Penrite is maybe imported from the US wheras the Febi is I think German so common in Europe. The Febi matches MB236.6 but I'm not sure about MB341.

I've been using 5w-40 full synthetic in my Vito and my C320CDI (OM642 V6) for years without any problems. However Australia is a hot country so you need to make sure you choose the right grade of oil for your climate.

@@ScottElliott152 living in uk ..so wet and ...wet😅🤦‍♂️

I'm going well thanks. The easiest adjustment is to reduce the preload.

@ScottElliott152 thanks fella.do u have a video on this 🤔

@@bc-mr1si No I don't but there's plenty of information out there on adjusting preload if you do a search. It's also detailed in the owners manual which is also available online.

@@ScottElliott152 ok pal.thanks for your reply 👍

That's the original equipment Honda exhaust.

If the suction hose of the pump is on the bottom of the oil pan, then you'll get all the flushing oil out. Modern engine oils have detergents anyway, so in my opinion, flushing oil isn't necessary. Having said that, if you're happy with the additional expense, it won't do any harm.

Replace the sensor is about all you can do.

Hi Andrew and yes I'm going ok. I haven't made any Mercedes videos for a while because I haven't had to do many repairs ... which is a good thing. Those thermostat cover bolts are M6 and tightened to 9Nm.

@@ScottElliott152 thanks Scott!

These adjustable Koni's are great for the rear on a leaf sprung solid axle. As you can see it's not too difficult to set the rebound damping. It takes a few trials to arrive at a setting. However the front is a different story. If I wanted adjustable front shocks I'd buy something with external adjusters as unbolting, compressing and twisting is not practical or easy on the front struts ... it's certainly not a trail side adjustment. Experimenting with more rebound damping will probably help with the side to side movement but appropriate springs for the weight over the front are also important. I have the King springs KDFR-70EHD on the front. I have a bullbar (weighs about 50Kg) and 3mm steel bash plates and found the EHD spring better than the HD version. My ride quality is good on the highway and is definitely not too harsh or stiff I've just returned from a remote expedition on the south coast on the west end of the Great Australian Bight and experienced sections of severe washboards (aka corrugations in Australia). From experience I've found low pressures and high aspect ratio tyres are the most effective mitigation strategy. I dropped my pressures to 18 psi hot and the washboards weren't really an issue providing I didn't try to go too fast. I run all terrain Kuhmo AT52 235/85 x 16 on 7" wide rims. These give me a long footprint like a dozer when the pressures are reduced. At 12 psi to 14 psi my Nissan pads across soft beach sand like a camel.

@@ScottElliott152 that’s the exact same tire size that I used to run on my 96 trooper. Tall and somewhat narrow, but still never failed me in the traction department in all sorts of terrain. They were Yokohama Geolanders which have a very tame tread pattern, but still were excellent tires on and off road. Thank you for all of that information. It’s going to be a great help. I didn’t want to spend crazy money on the suspension since I honestly don’t drive that much at all anymore, but I’d rather have what is right with my grievances when I do go off-road. Have a great day.

Between 1 and 2 hours.

Hi Jamie and thanks. I used load resistors in parallel. www.ozled.com.au/blog/our-blog/led-load-resistors/

Those codes are related to fuel pressure issues.

Good on you Harry. Did you watch it? ... because I do explain what I'm doing.

If it's a OM642 then yes but you should make your own checks. Use this to find the correct part number: partsouq.com/

No.

@@ScottElliott152 I was told that I would need to

@robertsessions8139 I showed everything I did in the video. After replacing the part, it worked again but the Dealers always say things need to be coded. If your rain sensor is faulty, you have no option but to replace it. You'll soon know if it's going to work and maybe some cars need coding but that wasn't my experience. What if you're in a more remote area .... are Mercedes going to leave you stranded because an item needs coding? I doubt a countries design rules would allow that to happen.

I replaced the sensor. Still get the message

@@robertsessions8139This was just posted by MariusPenta. Hello, I have replaced successfully rain sensor A2048704726, from w204 220cdi '08, with A2049017801. No coding was required. Maybe this info will help someone.

William I've never tried to plug in another device so I don't know. Do a search at www.benzworld.org as you might find something there.

Thanks. No I haven't had any seals blow up yet.