Changing Motor Mounts On a Mercedes EClass W211 in Under an Hour

[@1ohmwrecker]

Just pulling it into my shop, jacking it up, and removing all the skid plates alone would take me an hour🤣

[@louieblh]

Literally didn't take the rack or converter off genuis 🙏🏽🙏🏽 saved me a headache

[@hitzoneproductions7858]

Love the detail of your videos. I have an 06 E350/W211: First I couldn't switch between comfort and sport mode. Then the car started to call Teleaid over and over whenever car was off + got Teleaid malfunction message. This drained battery. Accidentally put new battery in backwards. Melted terminals. Put another new battery. Drove it. Got white battery warning, then red battery visit workshop, then esp, srs, abs, lost full braking power, stalled. I got sick. Car sat for 2 years. Recently changed aux batt, main batt, alternator regulator. Started. Used hidden menu to find alternator still not charging. Read online that reversing battery terminals once on a Benz can fry inline fuse on alternator ground wire (under shrink wrap), plus diodes on alternator. I'm exhausted. I don't want to pull alternator again just to find it's that one inline fuse that needs changing. If fuse, I don't know how to change just the fuse or the whole cable if need be. I need this car to get to and from crucial doctor's appointments and I'm exhausted. So, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

[@YourCarGuyDR]

That makes for a tough one. It does sound like a blown main fuse/cable. I would use a voltmeter to verify the voltage at both ends of the cable before replacing. If you have battery voltage at the power distribution connection coming from the car but none at the alternator this would verify that the fusible link in the cable is bad. This can be tested with the car off.

[@hitzoneproductions7858]

@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you so much for responding - It means a lot to me. Please excuse my ignorance. But, just to clarify: By blown main fuse/cable, are you talking about the one I was talking about that contains the '175amp fusible link' (link #1 below)? If so, I can only see the end attached to the alternator. Might you know the official name for the power distribution center you referenced so I can find it please? What do you mean by 'coming from the car? Because, from the schematic I found (link #2 below), positive current goes from the thick black cable attached to the back of the alternator-To a 175amp fusible link-To the starter-To the battery: So, are you saying that if the portion of that cable from the 175a to the starter has 12V, but the portion of the cable from the 175a to the alternator does not then the fuse in blown? If so, is there a video you can please link me to on how to change this fuse or the cable entirely, as I can't find one. Thank you so much sir! LINK TO POSSIBLE CABLE: www.ebay.com/itm/303507898484?norover=1&mkevt=1&mkcid=4&mkrid=711-162003-802638-6&mpt=61bd85fc42b0c9fd60161ee5f9855700&gdpr=&&siteid=0&ipn=admain2&placement=546386#tblciGiDbSuK1YsWnAZTaX9sSavDFfQdU3454pQIUnuswAX2LmyDwjE4o9pK1t6HCwpHPAQ LINK TO SCHEMATIC: images.app.goo.gl/x2RndBFWT6dSdkND6

[@YourCarGuyDR]

@@hitzoneproductions7858 yes it is in that cable from the alternator to the starter. If you check it at the starter and it shows battery voltage and no voltage or reduced voltage at the alternator then it is bad. I don’t have any thing on replacing it right now.

[@hitzoneproductions7858]

@@YourCarGuyDR God Bless You. How do I donate to your channel?

[@YourCarGuyDR]

@@hitzoneproductions7858 I don’t currently have donations set up. Hopefully you are able to get your car fixed.

[@levenge1]

I maybe wrong, however I think this video applies for only those with 4Matic.

[@root12510]

You are correct haha

[@-stayblessed-8866]

Excellent video !! 👍

[@Nyck461]

Very nice video. Why some guys says need to remove alternator and exhaust?

[@geemanbmw]

Maybe because those other videos your referring to are not the V8 ? 🤷‍♂️

[@whlawson5812]

Thanks for this post. The height of old vs new engine mount indicates that the old engine mount had compressed down by at least 5/8" inch. New mount suppose to weight 2.42lb with fluid inside? Engine vibration was there for at least 2 years?. Would a reduction of engine mount by height of 1/2" is already a trigger point to replace it?. Waiting for vibration to occur before changing the mounting is likely to cause wear & tear in other areas of the drive train & suspension? Thanks. This I guess would be between 30,000 to 50,000 miles depending on how hard the car is driven. Thanks.

[@YourCarGuyDR]

I would normally wait until I felt some vibration.

[@mzee5533]

Hey I’ve the same wagon i was changing the headlights lenses

[@lcervantes8505]

This is the method by which the mount (on both sides?) seems to slide right out by removing the wheel well coverings, yes?

[@YourCarGuyDR]

Yes, a very simple process for both sides.

[@lcervantes8505]

Thanks. You make it look easy. Yours appears to be a 500. Mine have collapsed to where the top bolt head is hidden under the exhaust manifold. My work is cut out.

[@lcervantes8505]

So, this doesn't work on an E500. Took the wheel well covers off and the mounts aren't even visible. Dropped the steering rack to r&r. Pain aligning the driver side mount, then the rack. Time consuming for this old fart, but the car runs smooth as butter now.

[@YourCarGuyDR]

@@lcervantes8505 I am surprised you weren’t able to get them out more easily. My car is an E500. Is yours the W211 chassis?

[@lcervantes8505]

@@YourCarGuyDR yep

[@89Majki]

Did it makes the steering wheel shake?

[@YourCarGuyDR]

@@89Majki usually when the motor mounts are bad it will cause vibration through the entire car. However because the steering rack is mounted to the subframe collapsed mounts can cause steering vibration. However if the vibration is under braking then it is most likely brake rotors. Other items like tire balance or loose ball joints can also cause steering wheel shaking.

[@keytothegate68]

I'm watching this because I had a Mercedes mechanic replace the CV axle shaft on my E 350 and since then I got vibrations in the steering wheel. I wonder if there is a connection between the two? Did you have to remove or adjust any CV shaft components to get all 4 mounts replaced? Will you be replacing the CV shaft because of the torn boots?

[@YourCarGuyDR]

I did replace the cv shafts. If you picked up a vibration after having the cv shaft replaced it is likely that your new cv shaft is defective. However if the vibration is only during braking then a warped brake rotor is likely the issue.

[@MrTravisAl]

I just replaced my drivers side axle. And while replacing it I found out my motor mount is blown out. I think the bad motor mount led to premature wear of the CV joint of the axle.

[@vincearroyo1757]

Great video! And follow for me for sure. Are those aftermarket headlamp lenses? If so where did you get them? Thanks

[@YourCarGuyDR]

They are replacement lights that I believe I sourced on partsgeek.com.

[@imty8774]

Is it the same for the e55?

[@YourCarGuyDR]

It should be the same.

[@peterhert9350]

It is diffrent on the driverside. And less space.

[@lapd1989]

@@peterhert9350 but did you still get it out though the wheel area?

[@peterhert9350]

@@lapd1989 I opend the frontaxlesupport and let it supported down. I was afraid losen the upper exhaust and do not get it tight again.

[@KT-yn8cj]

1 hour on a 4matic isn't a brag

[@myredute]

This video is absolute garbage because you can't access the top 16mm. bolt without removing part of the exhaust manifold. I've tried & it can't be done on a 2003 W211 E320. might be different on a 4matic but not on a V6.