Changing the timing belt on Volvo v50 2 0d

[@jolovius3230]

Thanks for video . I just bought a v50 and need to do the timing belt , was handy seeing your video

[@johnbower]

Glad it helped

[@Samadork]

I'll be damned, Eeyore is a great mechanic :)

[@johnbower]

Daniel Larsson, thanks.

[@hrpalmer04]

Very helpful... Thanks John

[@johnbower]

Nice to know it was helpful, thanks for letting me know.

[@p.istaker8862]

A good and helpful video. However, makes me wish I hadn't bought mine. What a ball ache for a bit of rubber. Makes a 900 series Lotus engine belt look really easy.

[@johnbower]

P.I Staker, Thanks for the comment, Yes like most transverse engines, changing the timing belt is not straightforward.

[@peterarries7879]

Top job

[@johnbower]

thanks

[@orionmarine1068]

Good morning John 👋 If I insert 8mm pin through the hole behind the starter, will I still have to use 3 teeth flywheel locking tool ? If so, then why? Does 8mm pin not lock the flywheel?? Cheers mate 👍 Matthew.

[@johnbower]

Orion Marine, The 8mm pin inserted into the flywheel is only used to ensure the flywheel is in the correct position when fitting the timing belt, I do not recommend relying on this pin to stop the flywheel turning when undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt ( the last thing you want is for the pin to bend and then not be able to remove it ) I recommend using a flywheel locking tool that engages with the teeth on the flywheel when undoing & tightening this bolt.

[@arifgill4189]

Good job

[@johnbower]

Arif Gill, thanks for the comment

[@insus100]

I've read that a timing belt failure in the 2.0 hdi engine will not break valves, only rockers, does it apply to this volvo engine? Is this an 8 valve engine?

[@arifgill4189]

Nice fabricator

[@johnbower]

Arif Gill, thanks for the comment

[@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness]

john can you just move the starter out the way enough to put the locking kit to lock flywheel up rather than take it all the way out?

[@johnbower]

You really need to move the starter motor completely out of the way because two different operations have to be carried out in this area, one of these operations is to lock the flywheel in place, and in order to do this two of the starter motor bolt holes in the bell housing are needed to bolt a locking tool into place, this locking tool should be used when undoing and re tightening the very tight bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley in place. The other operation needed in this area is to fit the 8mm diameter pin that ensures the crankshaft is in correct position when moving and replacing the timing belt. Note: this 8mm pin is not intended for stopping the crankshaft turning when undoing the very tight bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley.

[@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness]

@@johnbowerthanks for your promt detailed replys. ive tried heat gun and air wrench to remove pully bolt with no joy so am wondering if i can just put car in gear to lock flywheel up while i undo pully bolt .i can get 8ml boolt in fly wheel without removing starter motror so not worried about that aspect .???

[@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness]

@@johnbower john im confused the hole in my block (fllywheel end) is more like 6mil ive got the locking kit but the long flywheel pin is 8mil but deff dosnt fit very confused az its same engine az yours and others ive seen .john im thinking rarher than spend hours moving stuff to move starter carnt just put in gear with break on while removing that very stubborn pully bolt for first time .will that work or am i totally wrong ??also the locking kit i purchased az only got 1 " lug " that locks into the flywheel ,with all the force i can see that taking out one of thge flywheel teeth where az the one you made has 3/4 lugs .

[@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness]

Hello john im in dover kent if i paid for postage and deposit could i borrow your locking kit ,im doing a vovo v70 2,0d rdisign and apart from ebgine mount evrything else looks the same .mine is manual if i put it in gear would i still need lock fly wheel and cams. would you even make a kit up and sell it to me ??

[@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness]

forget that i got a locking kit made by niesenl fits that engine for £20.

[@johnbower]

OK good luck

[@jonthanmardonesgomez5127]

Hola desde españa este motor es el 2.0 D4 de 177 caballos?

[@insus100]

es de 136 cv creo

[@joesnell3310]

That looks difficult ! but I think I might just have a go ! I have the 1.6D will this be similar ?

[@johnbower]

Joe Snell, not sure how similar the 1.6D is, important thing to do is lock the camshaft and crankshaft while changing the belt, make marks on the original belt and sprockets before removing it, then transfer the marks onto the new belt and line them up with the marks made on the sprockets ( as I did in the video ).

[@andysmith4481]

Hi John. Great video, and neat welding too! I got all the info I need without any faff, looks pretty straightforward... Just one query, are the holes in the crank sensor pulley blind? i.e, could you wind long bolts through and push it off from the lower belt pulley, rather than using a slide hammer?

[@johnbower]

Andy Smith, Thanks for the comment. I fully understand what you are saying, I think the holes are blind but not sure, I believe the correct tool will bolt onto the face of the sensor ring and have a threaded hole in the center of it for a long threaded bolt to screw through and bottom out in the hole where the large crankshaft pulley bolt fits, this will then push the sensor ring off.

[@samburns897]

Yes, I wound two bolts into the holes evenly, and it popped off.

[@samburns897]

Hi John, fantastic video. I must have watched this 10 times! I’ve just started doing my cambelt on my V50 2.0D. I’m on the homestretch of completing the job. The only issue I’m up against is the tension on the belt. I can get the pointer on the tensioner to sit in the middle of the window however, if I happen to press the belt to manually check the tension, the pointer sinks to the bottom. Also, if I try and turn the engine by hand, the belt is skipping a couple of teeth. Any suggestions on how I’d get around this please?

[@johnbower]

Sam Burns, Hi Sam, thanks for the comment, seems like you don't have the new belt correctly aligned. You must not try turning the engine (not even by hand) until you are sure the belt is fitted correctly, or damage can be caused to the valves if the timing is out. Note: Both timing pins must be in place when fitting the new belt, sadly it is not easy to get the new belt on. To get the new belt correctly aligned pay attention to the forward section of the belt, (this is the section from the top of the camshaft sprocket then passing down under the idle pulley to the bottom of the crankshaft sprocket), when this section of belt is correctly fitted it will have no slack in it at all even before the tension pulley is in place providing both timing pins are fitted. Start with both timing pins in place, WEDGE the belt against the underside of the crankshaft sprocket to hold the belt teeth in place against the sprocket, then pull the belt tight as it passes around the idle pulley up to the camshaft sprocket, this is where it is difficult to keep the belt tight and get the belt teeth correctly aligned over the camshaft sprocket, to do this, remove the timing pin from the camshaft sprocket and carefully turn the sprocket clockwise by one or two teeth this helps to slip the belt over the sprocket, then turn the sprocket back until you can re-insert the timing pin back into place, now the forward section of belt should have no slack in it. Get the rest of the belt tight by adjusting the tension pulley. Play around with the old tension pulley on the bench and study how it works, fully understanding how the adjusting mechanism works makes it easier when adjusting the new one. Tip: When a new belt is unboxed it will have some S shaped curves in it from storage, use some of these curves to your advantage to help get the shape of the forward section of belt to line up around the idle pulley etc. Good Luck.

[@samburns897]

@@johnbower many thanks, John. I’ll give it another try tomorrow! Appreciate your help.

[@philoshippus]

Tanks mate but if you put marks on the old belt in place and on the wheels after that you take the old belt of and report the marks on the new belt you will not need all this special tools... Is the way a do.

[@johnbower]

Yes you can do the job by just marking the belt and sprockets, but you have to make sure pistons and valves don't collide when the belt is removed, because any slight rotation of the crankshaft could damage an open valve, this is why it is best to use timing pins, also you can check the original belt was correctly fitted, because if the original belt was say one tooth out of position then the new belt would also be one tooth out if you are just using original marks, so it is satisfying to have all timing pins engaged then you can be 100% sure the timing is correct, thanks for the comment.

[@marianmarian1821]

Hello! Is this Volvo V50 dual-clutch?

[@johnbower]

Marian Marian, This Volvo has a "dual mass flywheel" the clutch is single. Check out my other videos, changing dual mass flywheel in Volvo v50 2.0d (part one and part two) and see how they fit together.

[@marianmarian1821]

@@johnbower Thank you very much, I will watch your other videos with great pleasure!