Charging my Tesla and I smelt something burning!

[@marquisdemoo1792]

Power or the heat generated is the current squared times the resistance. Thus a little bit of resistance such as a loose or corroded plug and the continuous high current draw by an EV generates a lot of heat. The heat speeds up the corrosion between the contacts, which increases the resistance, which increases the heat so in due course you get a fire. Best thing is wire the EV Charger directly in to screw down contacts, such as on the breakers. Make sure the cable is clamped and goes through a compression gland to prevent any cable strain pulling on the contacts. However this is best done by a qualified electrician who can conform to your local codes. In the UK there are very specific regulations for connecting EV chargers as there are unique dangers in taking mains electricity and feeding it to a metal box sat on insulating wheels. Anyone stood on the ground touching the vehicle could get a shock.

[@Crazypostman]

All the connections were very tight. I checked them when I took it apart. My guess is that it was the connection between the outlet and the plug. Maybe it got corroded or had debris in there, but that looks like we're overheated.

[@Lynyrd_Evnyrd]

I was going to say you should replace it with a Bryant or Hubbell NEMA 14-50 but I think that actually is one or is inspired by it based on the look in the back. I think most of the time the problems that occur are due to the lugs not being torqued down properly. Next time I would use a torque driver to get all the lugs to spec when torquing down. I think I’d still replace it with the Bryant 14-50r. They’re still the best bang for the buck for heavy duty plugs.

[@Crazypostman]

@@Lynyrd_Evnyrd It comes pre-built from the manufacturer. I didn't install any of the wiring except for the mains plugging into the breakers. Everything was very tight when I took it apart just now. Maybe the receptacle blade where it pinches the plug was loose?

[@mike02ss]

I have that same box that I use for when my son comes home with his Tesla. The plug is junk, get a hubbell plug and install it in the same spot, the hubbell is a little bigger so you have to grind out the hole to make it fit. We were experiencing the same problem with the plug getting hot, with the new plug no such issues, it’s a known problem with the cheaper plugs.

[@tommckinney1489]

Note that there are torque specs for the lugs on the outlet. Make sure you adhere to those if/when you install a new outlet. You'll need a torque screwdriver for this. I purchased one on ebay just for this purpose. EV charging is a long duty cycle, longer than a stove or dryer. The supply wires will heat and expand, then contract when you're not charging. This eventually works the connection loose, or at least not to spec. That's why you need to torque to the correct spec. The best solution is to hardwire.

[@Crazypostman]

@@tommckinney1489 It was torqued as tight as my screwdriver could. It's not attached to the house. If it goes up and smoke again, it'll only burn itself up.

[@timw9971]

Make sure your car is not pulling more than 40 amps on that. 80% of 50amps

[@pepstein]

This is why it’s better to hard-wire chargers. You eliminate the receptacle altogether, and that’s a point of potential failure. Ideally you want a direct run from the circuit breaker to the screw down connections inside the EVSE.

[@dianewallace6064]

I agree --never a boring day at the CP (and Duck) household.

[@didierpuzenat7280]

I am surprised, in the European Tesla plug there is a temperature sensor and the car reduces the charge power (by reducing the amperage) if the temperature is too high. I was assuming it was the same for other plugs.

[@Crazypostman]

@@didierpuzenat7280 It is the same here. If I was using a Tesla HPWC It would have automatically de-rated. I have an autel C50. The temperature sensors in the plug aren't hooked up.

[@Crazypostman]

@@didierpuzenat7280 I had it turned down to 40A Max. Worked fine for five years, I guess. Something went wrong.

[@UnexpectedTokens]

70 A breaker? 🤔🤔 for a 14-50? edit: oh i see there is a 50A breaker by the plug nvm lol should always hardwire if you can, the plug way is just too prone to problems

[@EffectualPoet]

Don't worry, you're saving the planet. 🙄

[@ArkansasEV]

Thank goodness you caught it. So, is wiring them directly safer?

[@Crazypostman]

@@ArkansasEV I'm sure it's safer. I just wanted the outlet because I test different chargers occasionally, and it's much more convenient to have the outlet available.

[@ArkansasEV]

@@Crazypostman I contacted my personal electrician, the ONLY one in the entire area that I can actually get to show up. His text said "As long as all the conductive equipment between the breaker and the terminals on the charger itself are rated for at least as much current as the FLA rating of the charger I think most electricians are going to agree that a hardwired install has a significantly lower chance of failure."

[@Crazypostman]

@@ArkansasEV I certainly agree with your electrician. I just need that plug in the driveway. And double tapping the connection is not safe. So I have to leave it the way it is for now.

[@Roeland54]

@@Crazypostman Why would double tapping be unsafe? The breaker would protect the circuit from overloading and you could just choose to use only one at a time to be sure. Could be against regulations I don't know American regulations.

[@tkmedia3866]

Make a wire whip and hardwire the autel.

[@taknmyshot]

Glad you're not overreacting. This happened to me last week after it had been working for two years. Like one of your other commenters, the cause is aching caused by a loose connection. It probably loosened over time. Stick another in its place. I replaced the male and female and all is working fine.

[@CC-fx4nn]

You can always count on Ohms Law!

[@felaxchow207]

If you want to keep the convenience of the 14-50 socket and plug. Just pickup a 50 amp 4-prong range appliance cord (not sure if it's outdoor rated) and a heavy duty 14-50 socket. If you're going that route, I would set the current limit to 32 amps on the EVSE. Technically 40 amps is within the 80% rule according to NEC code, but you're kinda pushing it to the limits of continuous duty when an attachment cord is involved. It's akin to having your electric range with all of the burners on high and the oven on self-clean mode for 3 hours straight everyday. Direct wire using a flex duct is best route to go if you want the full beans 40 amps and limit it to 32 amps when going with the 14-50 route. Either method is not really cheap due to the cost of materials these days. Make sure all connections are torqued to manufactures specs, but who has a torque screw driver in their tool box? :-p

[@tomwaller6893]

Why did America opt for only 110 Volts again?

[@RichardBrooklyn]

Mistakes were made.

[@shermc4587]

America is 220 Volts

[@Roeland54]

The plug and the charger in the video are 220v 🤦‍♂

[@pepstein]

America uses 240 volt split phase for residential service. This means we have 240 volts for things like EV charging and 120 volts for low power stuff like lighting. What we miss out on is 3 phase power. But we do have 3 phase in commercial settings.

[@charlesvrogers]

hey crazy Postman cut the plug off the charger and wired directly into that box.

[@Crazypostman]

@@charlesvrogers Yeah, I could do that. I would still have to buy a junction box but I would be losing my 120v receptacle :(

[@charlesvrogers]

no you won't lose the receptacle just put a connector at the bottom of that box and run the cable in through the bottom of the box

[@Crazypostman]

@@charlesvrogers 🤔

[@charlesvrogers]

@@Crazypostman Is there a knockout at the bottom of the box? If so then, then pull the cord into the box, and wire the to the Breakers, and 120V to one leg. This is temporary buy a cord connector the next time you're in town.

[@steveurbach3093]

That Autel is not code legal because that Plug is too long. Plug attached EVSE are limited to 1 foot.

[@Crazypostman]

Could you cite the code you're referring to? That doesn't seem right because they sell them 3 and 6 foot specifically for EVSE usage. And this plug I'm using is factory. It came this long.

[@TimBertram]

This Sandy Munro video is a worthwhile watch about similar issues kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnXTaoOeha-bi6s But one thing to note is EVs have a long and high duty cycles. Many cheap plugs work fine for things like clothes dryers but EVs draw high continuous amps for many hours. Even well installed cheap plugs can get hot. My two cents of advice is get one of the newer "EV" rated plugs from Leviton or Legrand if your not going to direct wire. Beyond that just because you CAN charge at the max speed of the circuit doesn't mean you should. In most cases you can back the charge speed down a few amps and be a lot safer.

[@Crazypostman]

@@TimBertram This wasn't a cheap plug. This was EV and RV rated. I'm going too see if there's any way to replace just the plug or if I have to buy the whole enclosure again.

[@TimBertram]

@@Crazypostman Not saying yours was cheap. Mostly noting as a PSA that not all 14-50 plugs are the same. Manufactures are starting to have EV specific ones that tend to hold up better and deal with the high heat from EV charging sessions. In most applications even for things like RVs have a much lower duty cycle compared to an EV.

[@Crazypostman]

@@TimBertram I went to the electrical warehouse and got another plug and replaced it. It was 70 bucks. It better not melt! 🤣

[@dianewallace6064]

Sorry this happened.

[@Crazypostman]

Yeah, And I only have 30% charge left. I'm going to go to the electrical supply place today. Hopefully I can find something to fix this in town instead of Amazon.

[@dianewallace6064]

@@Crazypostman Best Wishes

[@iceburge]

80% Rule. Nema 14-50 MAX amps is 40 amps. You are pushing 48 amps thru a cheap 14-50... There is a nema 14-60. Not very common. Back off the amps to 40 amps when you replace or hardwire... If you find a cheap 14-50 reduce amps to 35a. The evse should be able to be configured to limit the amps...

[@Crazypostman]

@@iceburge my EVSE won't go higher than 40A So I was within spec.

[@iceburge]

Sorry. Thought I saw 60A breakers in box. Closer look I see 50A. Previous commenter mentioned HBL9450A If you can retrofit into electrical box. I still stand by reducing amps to 32-35 a. Wish you luck on your adventure...

[@keith61]

You wanted a cheaply made POS, well you got it.

[@Crazypostman]

@@keith61 It certainly wasn't cheap. It was like 150 bucks.

[@iowa_don]

@@Crazypostman $150 when your house and your life are on the line IS cheap.

[@Crazypostman]

@@iowa_don I don't know what more I could I have looked for... It was a GE outdoor rated enclosure box. Is GE not a reputable brand? It all came pre-wired with the breakers and outlets and everything.

[@pepstein]

@@Crazypostmanwho made the receptacle? That’s what matters. Hubbel makes a good Bakelite receptacle.

[@Crazypostman]

It wasn't labeled, I tried to get a hubbel first but it would not fit.