Top 5 Motorcycle MYTHS…BUSTED!!

[@Lochlann13]

I think a lot of new or potential riders drastically overthink countersteering and stress themselves out. If you've ridden a bicycle, you already likely do it subconsciously. On a motorcycle, you'll never even realize that you're doing it.

[@farrenmason8166]

Yep. Counterstearing had me so worried and confused when I first started. I was riding an ebike regularly for a few months before I got my motorcycle, and without knowing, I was already comfortable with steering as soon as I tried it. Lol

[@spartanx169x]

Bingo. Telling a new rider to counter steer will just confuse them. I rode motorcycles for 20 years before I heard of counter steering for street riding. When I think of counter steering, I think of how they steer on dirt track oval racing.

[@WIDeerHunter]

Couldn’t agree more, I just started riding street and watching too much info in one seating really makes it difficult rather than taking a proper riding course and being able to know what to expect with first person experience

[@TheJoker61541]

Yeah i dont get it. He still turned the bars in the direction of the turn. It'd make more sense to just call it leaning

[@TacticalHamsterDance]

As other commenters said, countersteering works in any speed. What you can use in low speed, is leaning using your weight - the bike has a few mechanisms to counteract this that work the better the higher the speed is, so eventually the weight needed will get so big it's not practical. But you can countersteer instead - even at low speeds. The second thing is, countersteering's only purpose is to lean your bike. And lean's primary purpose is to keep its balance, now that both centrifugal and gravitational forces apply, the sum still needs to point from the center of gravity to the contact patch. After you achieve desired lean, however, you need to point your wheel into the turn (or rather, bike will do it for you if you let it). The shape of the tire decreases the need but still, if you don't lean that much and need to do a turn with small radius (i.e. you ride slowly), your wheel will need to point into the turn after you reach the desired lean. As for the powerful bikes, I agree but with one exception: Even the bikes that are commonly considered weak and good beginner bikes, like 500-600 just around the maximum for A2, are in fact very powerful, much more powerful than common cars and one needs "to grow into them". There may be an advantage with advanced ABS and TC systems. However, power is not the only consideration - big bikes are on average bigger physically too, and if you're tall, you may struggle on small ones. On the other hand, a physically smaller bike is also easier to handle and there is less "falls from the side stand". Overall, I would recommend starting on a bike as physically small as you still find comfortable and as weak as you still find strong enough - although the latter, IMO, is not as important on road. Maybe there's more new riders crashing on liter bikes than on 125s, but it's the ones more risk averse that take a weak bike, and they will ride more carefully - because even on a 125 you can come into a turn too hot and panic. Still, those bikes are more forgiving and will allow you to learn in a more fun way instead of constantly thinking "I must not make a mistake". Eventually, you will get not making mistakes into your subconscious and then it's time to think if you really want to get something bigger - often, the answer will be no.

[@Whisksu]

Thank you for expressing the low CC starter bikes! As a new rider myself. I started out UNDER 300. I've learned SOO many lessons almost the hard way while keeping two wheels up, and I credit it to starting on a much more forgiving, low CC bike. 5k Miles later, I still enjoy riding it. Speed isn't everything. If I would have started out on a 600cc. 90% chance I would have dropped or crashed already. You learn sooooo much on lower CCs! Im so glad I listened to the REALLY experienced riders who already learned their lessons, and not the ones who told me to start out on a 600cc.

[@chaseontwowheels]

That's awesome to hear that you started out on a smaller bike and learned so much on it!

[@bbt0101]

Counter steering works even at low speed (yes even below 10mph). As long as you're moving you have to counter steer, it's just reallyyy hard to notice when moving slow

[@5Down1Up]

And yet people refuse to drop this nonsense about some mysterious ‘speed threshold’ above you countersteer.

[@Nina-cd2eh]

To add to the "leaning in corners part": leaning is also how motorcycles actually turn. The tires have that shape for a reason, and it's what makes the bike take a turn when the steering is straightened after leaning. Try rolling a cup or any conical object on a flat surface to get the gist. The radius on the outside is smaller than the middle of the tire, so the middle always wants to carve a longer path than the outside. It's also why the RPMs become slightly higher as the angle increases, since it takes more wheel turns to travel the same distance

[@Ryan-mv5wi]

Bonus fact even at low speed, you counter steer a little, so before a left turn, you will turn the bars a little right to make the bike lean before steering to the left it's hard to notice on video but of you can physically turn the bars to the right u will struggle alot to turn left

[@SimonRiley752]

Was going to post this too. Counter steering happens at all speeds, it's just less obvious at lower speeds.

[@Nina-cd2eh]

Yeah, it doesn't really have to do with any gyroscopic effect either. It's just the fact that the "contact patch" moves more than your center of mass, essentially leaning the rider the other way. Like getting a rug pulled under you, except you control the rug. The bike just balances well because of its geometry, namely the fork caster angle and the conical shape of the tires.

[@IronRoadWarrior]

🎉true!

[@BestWelderBoi]

That counter steering thing absolutely blew my mind!! I had no clue that was a thing. Thank you Chase for sharing your years of riding experience with the world.

[@Captain_Misogyny]

I find that those who talk down about smaller sized bikes are typically those with the least skill. If you aren't fast on a 250, it's not a bike problem, it's a you problem.

[@POSTMASTER_Rion-Donald_Harmon.]

Lower CCs usually dominate on twisties and small tracks. x2-3 faster. Specially the supermotos. Good luck lol

[@cristianopontesr]

Yeah, I absolutely don't get ppl saying a 300cc bike is slow. How is 100mph slow? WHY would you need to go any faster riding in the city or even roads?

[@TheKingsapostle]

Myth 4: I'm one of those guys. Riding bikes is super easy. Everyone makes it seem so much harder than it actually is. I wish I just bought a bigger bike to start out with. I 100% support starting on any bike you want. Has nothing to do with ego and everything to do with money. The first time I ever rode a touring bike, I was so nervous because everyone talked about how I "had no experience so it's too dangerous". But when I got on it, I was shocked to find that IT RIDES LIKE EVERY OTHER BIKE, BUT EASIER! I've ridden all kinds of different bikes and they're all easy to ride. Just use your brain. Just don't be scared of the bike! Fear causes you to make dumb mistakes.

[@DerekFrampton]

I'll take a slower bike that's fun to ride, gets me on two wheels, and keeps me alive.This is/was a GREAT video! I feel it's great for new AND experienced riders OC

[@chaseontwowheels]

Totally! It's not about the size of the engine, it's about the fun you have on it.

[@moyeet7]

what an awesome video! been riding for over a year now but still found this video super enjoyable and I know future riders will be thankful they watched this!

[@chaseontwowheels]

That’s awesome, I’m glad you found it helpful! It was a lot of fun to make.

[@cavedog1279]

It's not gyroscopic effect, otherwise trikes would function the same way (they do not). It is because the tire is not flat on the bottom. Consider rolling a red solo cup on its side, it will not go straight because it is a cone. Motorcycle tires function like a cone as the bike leans - the middle of the tire is the larger end of the "cup" and so the bike tries to go away from it. The gyroscopic effect you are talking about only tries to keep the bike upright. Below your speed threshold, it is much easier to lean the bike with your body. Even at 5 mph or less, if you turn the handlebars to the left (without leaning your body at ALL) you will fall over to the right.

[@chaseontwowheels]

I appreciate you taking the time to explain it!

[@tmeissen1218]

It is gyroscopic effect and trikes will do the same. If you tap the handlebar on one side and immediate release it, it will stabilize straight at speed. Regardless of what you ride. However, with inertia added with anything let's say 15mph and up, lean angle is required to override the bike trying to continue straight. The counter steering at lower speed is basically only the initial attack to get the bike to start leaning and you turn into the lean to control not falling over. So it's both gyroscopic effect and inertia that create your first point about counter steering.

[@itzardan]

For the real explanation, I believe it was mark Robert that did a video on it but with a bicycle, the same principle just applies to motorbikes

[@nemanjad7497]

Everything you said is wrong just stop, take a look in the mirror, reflect on what you've said and come back to delete this comment then delete youtube and social media, sell your house and go live in the woods to never see civilization again other then for medical reasons

[@thecapnpoopy]

on sport bikes the braking is 90/10. also found out recently why it's so important to keep the pivot pin of your levers lubricated. if they dry up, you're not going to be able to smoothly and progressively pull your levers. instead of going 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7% etc you're going to go 1, 2, 15, 30% etc.

[@NewHamburgShenanigans]

Counter steering just initiates the turn. It makes the bike lean. It isn't actually turning the bike yet. Once you done initiating the lean, your handlebars will turn away from the counter steering direction and begin pointing the way you are turning instead.

[@Frank_Torre]

OC: I'm with Chase on that 4th myth. Sends my blood pressure through the roof hearing a new rider say "I'll just get a litre bike and grow into it". While I was a technician I saw tons of new riders make that mistake and get a bike too fast for them and regret it almost instantly. In a few cases that noob barely making it outta the dealership parking lot and doing something dumb and ending up in an accident with not even 5 mins of seat time on their new bike. Made even worse is that more than a few times I saw a new rider drop 15k to 20k on a bike and only get a cheap helmet as the only piece of gear.

[@grandprixjames]

You see a lot of that working at a shop. Sometimes they just crash a bunch and sometimes they are dead in week.

[@logangodofcandy]

I got a 1200 twin. Technically a litre.

[@Frank_Torre]

@@logangodofcandy It's a V-twin cruiser so it doesn't have nearly the top speed of a 1000cc supersport bike. Plus most cruisers are heavy and slow compared to supersports, so the likelihood of you going near +180mph is basically nonexistent in comparison. So yeeting yourself to infinity and beyond with whiskey throttle isn't as bad on a cruiser weighing at least 600lbs or so when you factor in the high revving rapid acceleration of a supersport compared to the torquey nature of a V-twin off the line. For example in over 15 years of riding I've never seen a new cruiser rider go down after buying their bike like I've seen new litre bike squids.

[@ApexRadius]

@@Frank_Torre I have. More than once. There are plenty of squids on all kinds of bikes and some of the most arrogant and clueless are on cruisers. Maybe the best/worst one I've seen was actually a guy on a little Suzuki S40. Dude was just leaving the parking lot on his brand new bike as I was walking into the parts department. He was d*cking around instantly--with a T-shirt, jeans and only a crappy half-helmet--an obvious accident waiting to happen. He wobbles out of the parking lot and tears up the road. Ten minutes later I'm walking out of the building and this dummy is screaming back down the road in total panic-lock, running right through a junction with the throttle to the stop. He rides full-tilt into a gas station right across the street, just misses the pumps, and runs square into a parked car, luckily not killing somebody (and himself), and launching himself about 25 feet clear of the car. He never touched the brakes. I walked back into the parts department and told the guys to call emergency services. They were just shaking their heads because they knew this fool was going to bin it sooner rather than later.

[@halfboltedon9162]

This happened to me, I have been riding an 22 SV650 for about 2 years and when I was checking out for an upgrade the dealership guy said “you should go for the gsxr1000 since they have different modes you’ll be fine, they have all the safety feature (ABS, TC, Rider modes, etc.) so you can grow into it.”

[@CammyMoto]

Thank you for always providing high value videos like this.❤❤❤❤

[@SprayEndPray]

"Because motorcycles don't give a shit about your ego!" Im adding this saying to my list of thing I do before i get on a bike. Always full gear. Also I'm that guy that bought the premium "grow into it bike" as my technically 2nd bike. ZR6R was my first as a teenager i rode a few times in a summer, then sold. 12 year later I bought a $12k Triumph Street Triple.

[@robertjenkins7641]

I agree with everything you said, most of these myths are ridiculous. However, I only 75% agree with the picking a bike. I think it largely depends on who and when you are looking at getting a bike. I didn't start riding until I was 40 years old, so maturity and being able to control yourself plays a large roll. Also, being older means you probably have a little bit more disposable income, so you are able to select a bike that has power modes, TC, ABS, etc. I went from a Grom to a '23 MT-09 SP. The power modes and nannies helped me not die 😆

[@WIDeerHunter]

Just got my first street bike 2 weeks ago, thankfully Wisconsin has had some extra heat days due the southern hurricane and I’ve been able to put on 200 miles and ride 3 times a week and both weekend days, absolutely in love. I’m on an MT-07, which I think is just the right amount of bike for me, I have previous experience with power and respecting a vehicles ability versus my own.

[@Grizzman99]

Don’t overthink it. Hop on and go ride. Stay aware of what’s happening around you and enjoy the ride.

[@juanticimo]

Countersteering is very very subtle, it feels more like pushing the handle bar down, than it does turning it the oppisite direction. Its about transfering weight, and helping to maintain balance, thats why at speed, it just happens, but at low speed, you can turn the bars

[@walterhorn5567]

The more experience do you get the more nuanced moving around on the bike gets. Slow speed I move my body to the opposite side of the bike to keep the center of gravity over the contact patch, high speed Eileen to the inside and countersteer and if you’re off road you’re standing up pushing the bike down with your arms. There is no one right way, you’re dancing together in an ever changing ballet

[@justinrogers9427]

One of your best videos by far. I started on a cb1100 don't recommend that but I had lots of dirt bike experience.

[@drazensmarkovic]

I get you, it's not easy to explain. But... counterstearing is for leaning the bike, and not for cornering per se - you lean with countersteering, and then the handlebar returns to neutral position for the rest of the turn. Besides, counterstearing is result of the forks trail, and not gyro efect of the wheel. And countersteering is also used on bicycles, so a lot of people use it, perhaps not completely conscious. However, nice video. 👍

[@EricTStone]

The next two myths, perpetuated by this video: -the gyroscopic effect of wheel spin for stability is consistently and incorrectly over attributed. -technically counter steering happens at all speeds, it’s just small enough to be unnoticeable when slow. Physics

[@gingernaut2550]

Started 3 years ago on a yamaha bolt, as a300 lb strongman competitor I heard steady "that bikes to small for you!" "You'll outgrow it in a week!" "Anything less than 1800cc is pointless!" Still have that bike. Still love it. I see guys on groms and tell me this, have you ever seen a dude on a grom not having a blast? Lol I'm upgrading next season, but still want to keep the bolt to mod out as a bobber. I want something bigger for trips with the wife, and an adv bike. Good video, cheers. Maybe a couple myths for future videos. Not all bikers are hooligans, and not all bikers are aggressive dickheads

[@chaseontwowheels]

That Bolt sounds like a sweet project! I love the whole mod-out thing and I agree - not all bikers are hooligans or aggressive dickheads. 😎

[@SimonRiley752]

The "small" bikes are tons of fun. It's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow, besides most "slow" bikes are still faster than most cars out there and you'll learn a lot and grow more progressing on a smaller cc bike.

[@tony1954]

I believed in #2 (the Front braking part) for a long time. It's actually dangerous to believe that. I was way too conservative with the front brake. So one day, i almost rear ended a car. I was afraid to flip over.

[@3GingerCats]

I have a local riding instructor that does weekly free practice group sessions, one of the "courses" set up each time is an emergency stop (from 40km/h or 25mph as that's out maximum allowed speed withing the area) I was interested in what the ABS does to stopping distance, so I tested hitting the brakes hard to make the ABS work, using the front brake only and stopping as fast as I could without the ABS having to intervene... Yes I could stop faster on my own than the ABS could stop me, but no the ABS couldn't out brake the front only approach, in fact there was so little in it, that it took a few attempts to comfirm that the front brake on it's own was in fact better than the ABS kicking in. This was done on the factory fitted tyres. so when I replaced the rear tyre and noticed a drastic improvement in braking, I went straight out and had a matching front fitted... The result, I was now able to lift the rear wheel off the ground and stop in 60% of the best distance I got with the factory tyres, and that's with the rear tyre not even on the ground... No joke! I had been telling everyone how bad the tyres were, but it wasn't believable until I could demonstrate stopping in literally 1/2 the distance with the ABS kicking in on the factory tyres! The hard part now... I was so used to tyres that felt like they would slide out at any moment, that I couldn't trust them to hang on. that fear is still there. it's no longer valid, but it's still there. they become like glue and can be trusted when I have deliberately heated them up. but after having the rear only changed, I could actually feel understeer from the original front tyre... The bike was always sliding around corners, and the sliding got worse as the lean became steeper. So that fear of it sliding out was very justified indeed!

[@TGunner23]

Everyone said I’d kill myself on my first bike (gxsr 750). Respect the machine and have good clutch/throttle control and just don’t be stupid or over confident

[@chrissturgeon8455]

I slightly disagree with Myth #4. I think that the best starter bike will depend on the rider and their previous experiences. Did they grow up riding dirt bikes? Have they been driving a manual car for years? Are they generally an idiot? There are so many factors that play into the best starter bike for someone I hate to generalize it. With that being said, I'd never tell someone to start on something more powerful than a 600cc Sport bike. And that's only if they check all the boxes to tell me they can handle it.

[@ApexRadius]

Sure, things like dirt experience and good attitude/temperament help. But the assumption is that a "new" rider has very little-to-no experience on any motorcycle. That said, it's never advisable to start street riding on a Superbike/Hypernaked or even a 600 cc-ish Supersport or high-performance naked. What people forget is it's not just that those bikes are powerful; it's that they can be less forgiving in most respects (quick throttle response, twitchy and fast steering, very powerful and responsive brakes, etc.) and leave very little margin for error if you eff up or panic. Things can happen before the new-rider-learning-brain can respond. It makes learning more taxing and then that rider still has to deal with all the external hazards on the road. Dirt riding experience makes the learning curve shallower but it's still very different from riding a near-racebike on the street. And people tend to overestimate their skills. The vast majority of people on a high-performance street bike are only scratching the surface of its capability. Here's the big problem: Someone can "respect" the bike. He/she may even be more naturally/intuitively skilled than the next rider. Or that person may learn far faster than most. Yeah, some people can actually pull it off but he/she likely won't know if they're one of those people until the crapola hits the fan--and that's usually too late.

[@haste266]

I agree that it is definitely a case-by-case basis. I am a prime example of this. I had a Kawasaki KX80 big wheel growing up. I was able to ride it in a large area with high speeds. I had also grown up around vehicles that had manual transmissions. My first bike was a Suzuki SV650s and it was perfect. I do believe anything more powerful/larger would have been a bad idea to start with, but something with 75hp or less I think is reasonable. I ride a '22 Triumph Speed Triple now. :)

[@A1_Gass]

Awesome vid for a new rider, part2 would be cool

[@SpeedDemonCBR]

The front brake should not be used for slow speed maneuvers, everything else the front brake is fine

[@ianpat6526]

Another set od myths 1. Does redline revving hurt engine? 2. Do you need to lubricate chains? 3. Does the right fuel actually clean the engine?

[@justinmarti3108]

Everyone who drives or rides should understand engine breaking. If you’re in a car and let off the gas pedal and not touch any other pedal, you’re engine breaking. Drivers Ed 101.

[@OnlyKaerius]

I practiced big leans early. Been down to 55 degrees a few times. Most people's comfort limit is 20 degrees, mine's about 45. Lower CC bikes are great for learning, the top I'd recommend is around 650cc(but NOT 600cc sport bikes)(bikes like Yamaha Sv650, Kawasaki Versys 650, Honda NC700X, Suzuki Vstrom, etc). It can also be a forever bike. You don't have to upgrade from this. If your goal is higher though, don't go straight for it, especially don't start on a 1000cc supersport("literbike"), or larger. For custom/cruiser you could start on something bigger, maybe even a 1200 Harley, though I'd recommend something more like a Honda Shadow, Yamaha V-Star 650(maybe even an old 535 Virago), etc. Sportbikes though, start on a 250, 300 tops.

[@OnlyKaerius]

PS: for actual off-road, 250 might even be too much to start on, 125 or less would be good, maybe a Yamaha 110 XT. Not the above Suzuki Vstrom.

[@dutchdevil2]

Do this myth: braking into a corner makes you low side,

[@tacticalwarrior]

Great video, I can’t wait for my bike to arrive 😊

[@ApexRadius]

Myth 4: It's not just the power that's an issue for ham-fisted new riders. Superbikes/supersports/hypernakeds/etc. have aggressive steering geometry, mega powerful brakes, and rapid throttle response. They will do what you tell them RIGHT NOW, often violently, whether you meant it or not. Sure, modern bikes have a lot of rider aids but they are not a sufficient replacement for experience and education. Do what you will but don't ever be so arrogant and over-confident when dealing with motorcycles. Inexperienced riders don't know what they don't know. New cruiser/tourer riders starting out on 600-700+ lb., big bore bikes is also a very bad idea. I don't care what you're dentist friends tell you. I see a lot of these incompetent bozos wobbling around on the road. Also, we really need to stop classifying bikes by engine displacement alone, even informally. It's misleading and confusing to newer riders. Anyone with any real experience knows a 600 cc inline-4 Superport and a 650 cc inline-twin road-focused "sporty" bike are very different animals. That goes even more so for something like a 1000+ cc Superbike and a for a 1200 cc V-twin cruiser.

[@Meaty0gre86]

Nice shout out to the BrakeFree product. I have one, and so far (6 months of riding) I've only ever seen one other in the wild.

[@chrisdesmond9989]

Just be smooth and dont overthink things. another myth is people on smaller bikes thinking they have outgrown them because they cant make it go any faster in a straight line. WRONG, you can make it go faster and as your experience grows you corner faster which in turn makes you able to go faster down the same straight. Its more rewarding to ride a slower bike fast than a faster bike slow

[@dogscunt1002]

What a stupid thing to say. Let people ride what they like, you’re not the arbiter of who can ride what.

[@Spartan375X]

For #4, in 2003, my dad got an XR100 for my brother and I, I rode that so much to the point of abuse. The next year, we got a CR125R and XR250R, I couldn't reach the ground, kick starting was difficult on the XR and too much power for me at the time, it killed my joy for riding that I maybe rode once or twice a year over the next 10 years until I got the CRF230M for myself. Now I have well over 38,000 miles between that and my Grom while still going for the occasional track or trail on the same CR and XR 20 years later. I'm still debating on what my next bike will be.

[@IbbySS.]

OC 14:50 Technically Chase, whether they do or don't start on a low cc motorcycle and keep their ego in check, they do become lifelong bikers in the end. For better or for worse. But I get what you're saying Chase, totally agree with you on this one. Plus starting on a low cc bike could be a good return on investment on resale value of you play your cards right.

[@dtiger3326]

Learning to ride a bike is like making a brisket. It's best to go low and slow in the beginning. You crank the heat up when it's ready. 😂

[@RealTalkPowersports]

Great Educational video Chase!

[@Synthwave89]

Love the cinematography in this video. Reminds me of Fortnine

[@BlackhartFilms]

Counter steering sounds confusing, but the way it's always made intuitive sense to me is to push forward in the direction I wanna go. Push the right bar forward, turn right. Push the left bar forward, turn left. I'm not overthinking what exactly the tire is doing, even though logically I know all that. In the moment its just push and lean.

[@chaseontwowheels]

I feel the same way - it's less about physics and more about feeling it out. 👍

[@jvillain9946]

All these "myths" are absolutely correct. You don't know what you're talking about. Let me explain. 1. I started riding on a big wheel when i was 3 years old and by the age of 4 I was way too big to fit on it. 2. Engine braking is bad for your bike. If you break your engine how is it supposed to work? huh smart guy? 3. Counter steering is a myth. I tried riding with a marble counter top strapped to my bars and let me tell you, it didn't work out well. 4. Front brakes are dangerous. Same as engine braking. If you're front breaks, then what is holding the front on? Nothing? Its broken. 5. Leaning into turns is dangerous. There are things turning all around you all the time. If you were to lean into everything that is turning its be a disaster. Hell the earth is turning. Should I face plant into my floor?

[@xDAxbxdevil]

I learned how to ride on my hayabusa i have now. Buy what you like

[@SimonRiley752]

I really only use the rear brake for stability in some turns and slow speed stuff as well as to just light up the brake light that I'm about to slow down. Seen too many cages get too close to me during engine braking alone so I'll tap the rear a few times just to light it up. Then both to slow to a stop.

[@TheKingsapostle]

Here's another myth: "Loud pipes save lives". People aren't paying attention, no matter how loud you are and truck drivers can't hear you until you're right next to their door, by then, they've already seen you a long time ago.

[@RossNixon]

Good point. I hadn't thought about that before.

[@ChucksterJax]

Loud pipes piss off other motorists. Add loud music and it pisses them off even more.

[@CalebE98]

So when you are in a car and you hear a motorcycle but can’t hear it while wanting to change a lane, are you more cautious? I personally am and so is everyone I know. People will spend more time looking if you are heard. Your ideology is just plain wrong. Even if 1 out of 5 people are more aware it’s still safer.

[@TheKingsapostle]

@CalebE98 I can't hear bikes when my car is moving. I can't barely hear bikes when I'm sitting in my car. But I've ridden, and seen, many, many people, almost always women, that're completely unaware that a bike is there, no matter how loud it is.

[@CalebE98]

@ so you basically just said yourself that some people can hear them by saying it’s mostly women that are oblivious. I’m sure you could hear my bike. Yes it’s a bit obnoxious but it sounds great and I’m a firm believer that even if 1 person hears me and reacts to it then it’s saved me. I know for a fact me hearing a motorcycle and being more cautious has made me not hit them because of blind spots. To me it just sounds like you’re a Harley hater and don’t really look at the facts.

[@TheNintendoFanBoy01]

Thank you for the busting the Grow into a bike myth..... As a Motorcycle Instructor in Australia.... I watch people all the time think they can handle a bigger bike and then realize that they have made a rather large mistake..... Our testing system is much firmer than the American system... It relaxed around 6 years ago, we used to be upto 250cc for the first license and then above 251cc for second license, now its upto 660 and then open for second class... But it is still firmer to get than the American system.... Its funny when people come here and think that what they do in their own country will work here and they go to get their license only to get slapped in the face with what is required here....

[@originalmianos]

It's funny, 'as a motorcycle instructor', you said it is up to 660, when it changed to a maximum power to weight ratio, and a 660 learner approved motorcycle is highly restricted to keep it under this power to weight ratio. It's not at all a change from 250 to 660. Maybe you are an instructor in a state of Australia where this is not true?

[@TheNintendoFanBoy01]

​@@originalmianos Not a change from a 250cc to a 660cc???? It certainly was a change... You think that a 660 is the same as a 250??? I know which one will kill you faster... People don't see Power to Weight Ratio they see CC's... Most People outside Aust don't know what LAM's mean... So why bother confusing people like you seem to want to do?? And how does this OFF the topic statement that you jumped in with HAVE anything to do with what I was talking about. But just for a little bit of clarification for others... Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS) approved motorcycle (R-E class) The power-to-weight ratio for a LAMS-approved motorcycle is up to 150 kilowatts per tonne (kW/t). Other requirements include: A maximum engine capacity of 660cc. Oh LOOK a maximum engine capacity of 660cc...... That seems to be bigger than 250cc's Still not sure how a 660cc is the same as a 250cc.. Must be some kind of magic... You'd hate me if I was in charge of motorcycle licenses... First there would be 3 classes of license... Up to 500cc, up to 1000cc and then open class... And every 10 years you would have to go to an instructor for what ever license you have and have a refresher course in how to continue to ride or drive on the streets. But you'd get your license card for free. No more fees on it... Just your car's and bikes....

[@originalmianos]

@@TheNintendoFanBoy01 The idea was to limit the power and maximum speed. When I learnt I had an RD250. What's more dangerous, an ex650L with limits on the ECU and throttle, lots of low end torque, highly limited acceleration and top speed, or an RD250 with 90% of it's power coming in at 9k? I'm not confusing anyone, the 650cc bike you can have on your learners/provisional in Australia is highly limited and not what a 650cc bike is in the US of A. On the other hand, I do somewhat agree with you, the bigger bikes are physically much heavier and a beginner is more likely to damage them from dropping them and just handling them at low speed. My daughter has a little ex250 and it's probably a better sized bike for her than something 50-60kg heavier.

[@TheNintendoFanBoy01]

@@originalmianos You brought up something that wasn't even part of the original comment SHHHEEESSSHHH. Having taught people from different countries over the last 13 years they sure as s#/t are confused over the Lams/Open class system we have in Aust.... I am teaching a guy from Africa right now... He completely thinks the Aust system is crap compared to what he had to do at home.... Basically he rode down the road and turned around and he had his license. Hence I didnt mention it I just talked basically about what we used to have vs what we have now In the simple form of CC's.... No need to complicate it for them. AND you are complicating something totally not even on their radar. Especially as 90% wouldn't come here and of the 10% who do 5% wouldn't ride here and the 5% wouldn't be going around oh whats the PtW Ratio of that oh I can't ride that as its to powerful, no they would go what can I ride on my license oh 660cc or less ok... Again YOU totally brought up something REALLY irrelevant and beyond the scope of what the original video and my post was about... I thanked the person for the video about busting the myth grow into a bike.... Our System was one way... Now it is another way... And Our System is firmer than theirs.... I will add one thing as you want to push the PvW issue.... There are only 6 bikes that are 250cc that are not Lams approved.. Just 6 and that is as of this month... So who cares... I don't Im not interested in any of these 6 bikes... APRILA RS250 HONDA NSR250 KAWASAKI KR1, KR-1S SUZUKI RGV250 YAMAHA TZR250 The term Power to weight means nothing in terms of getting their license. "Oh I cant buy a bike above 660cc's ok no worries, I'll buy that CB500 Hornet... Its Cool and it looks sweet... That CB650R looks sick but I think it's too big for me". Bikes beyond the control of people means more... If it falls on them and they cant pick it up... Well I think thats more of an issue... If the speed of the bike exceeds the persons capability to handle such speed that is more of a scary thing... I think anything over 500cc for a new rider is just asking for trouble... Here and in other countries... But I know I'd get shouted down from a certain country... =-P

[@originalmianos]

@@TheNintendoFanBoy01 I guess it's just too much for some people to understand.

[@Mikkel111]

I'm not sure it's so much a gyroscopic effect as it just is the friction of the tire. You're still going straight but the tire tries to go to the side, so the bike continues forward and is pushed "over" the tire and therefore to the opposite side of where you're turning.

[@anwarmak]

OC MATE! Absolutely loving every one of your 450 SS videos. Could you do a video showcasing what we need to know for a rider's license (maneuvers etc)

[@kenbowlus2995]

The physical maneuvers required during practical driving exams for motorcycles differs from State to State, and even more so between different countries and license classes/ levels. Best to just learn how to ride in general, and not try to "learn to the test." You'll be a better and safer rider for it.

[@sethpuhala8290]

counter-steering does happen at lower speeds. Fortnine has a great video on it where he locks the handlebars in one direction and found that at any speed he cant turn the other.

[@lordbarklee]

Great informative video. But some realy nice bikes too! That Buell... i want it.

[@ohTHATaaronbrown]

I think of countersteering as "push the handlebar in the direction you want to turn."

[@3GingerCats]

Grow into... I went from testing the water on a scooter/moped before getting a Motorcycle and licence. so when I did get a Motorcycle, I chose one that only scared me a little, was quite capable of the daily commute (the reason for not wanting to be sitting in a car for an hour to go 15.5km (10 miles)) It was capable of going on the open road at legal speeds, and it fit me Physically (comfort was more important than a cool looking bike) So I am the semi proud owner of a V-strom 250SX. it was fast, around town... for the first 3 weeks! Now it's boring as hell and I wish I got the Honda CB500X with damn near twice the grunt. It was only scary fast for the first 3 weeks, and I took it easy in that time... Had I got the 500 I would have ridden it the exact same way but had the ability to cruise on the open road instead of having it struggle to do the speed limit when there was a slight hint of headwind! That first 3 weeks... that was all it was, and I grew into it in that time. I should have gotten the bigger bike because I need the power that I don't have, and I would have still taken it easy until I was used to the amount of power that I had. the 500 is definitely something that can be grown into, and grown out of. but the 250 was grown out of within the first month! (and the shitty factory tyres made me hate it too, the factory tyres on the Honda feel way better. and I found that out taking it easy on someone else's bike) I reached this point so I have to say something about it... Engine braking bad of the engine? engine braking is no different from power being applied... Labouring the engine however, that overloads the conrods and pistons, creates a heap of heat that causes pre ignition, which causes more load on the rods, and more heat... enough to melt pistons! engine braking bad... hahahahaha (the only thing that is bad about it is the person behind doesn't know you are going to slow down!) Unless you have a 2 Strole engine where the oil is mixed with the gas (and not injected separately) this is not a grand idea, as while there is no throttle, there is no oil... could this be where the myth comes from?

[@ap3513]

I always feel like the bike knows what it wants to do to make a corner. Dont mess around with it by pushing the bars too hard.

[@JEPPAY]

Brilliant idea Chase! - Im sure you can come across more idiocracies :D that you would address right then and there - if a new rider asked you about it!!

[@vashspecter]

just a fyi to some of you on engine breaking, if engine breaking breaks your engine then semi's would be needing tune ups on pistons and such every 25k miles instead of a fluid change.

[@farrenmason8166]

My engine braking is strong on my bike. Between that and my rear brake, i hardly have to use my front brakes. I do make myself use the fronts simulating an emergency situation pretty regularly.

[@KylanW22]

The myth about engine braking being bad for your engine probably comes from the time in 2 strokes. On a 2 stroke engine braking wil make it not only not get the fuel, but it will also not get oil because the oil is mixed in with the fuel. Thus engine braking means having a bunch of friction on your cylinder without lubricant.

[@Shultzchet]

I had been riding bikes since like 4 and dirtbikes starting at about 5, with some amount on the street or other hard surfaces, so how to turn at speeds on a road surface wasnt new to me, but when i took the MSF class and they started talking about counter steering and said you have to turn the handlebars to the right to go left my mind was like wtf, because i had been doing it for years without thinking about it so i was just thinking, well just turn left.

[@Zyirk03]

I’ve had my starter bike for a year. I’m finally selling it and getting a Tiger sport 800 when they come out for the cruise control. I love my bike though, and if it had cruise I wouldn’t even consider upgrading.

[@chainringcalf]

Counter steering isn't based on gyroscopes at all, it's all the bike geometry. This has been tested with bicycles with counter-rotating wheels. If the forks were totally vertical, in turn removing all the "trail" from the front wheel, we wouldn't have countersteering, even though we'd still have the gyro.

[@chainringcalf]

This is why even when you're at a stop, you were able to show the counter lean when the bars were turned.

[@raphymartinez]

Great video. Very informative

[@ethancknight]

Counter steering does not happen only at a certain speed. It works at any speed. Counter steering is a requirement for bicycles too.

[@Synthwave89]

Not true, at very slow speeds the bars will move the bike in the same direction it is pointing. He literally showed it in the video. Works the same in bicycles as it does in motorcycles, though the speed cutoff might be different it's the same principle.

[@ethancknight]

@@Synthwave89 You’re not getting it. Watch the video “most people don’t understand how bicycles actually work” on KZbin and come back. You HAVE to counter steer to initiate a left or right turn. Even at slow speed. It is physically impossible to not counter steer a 2 wheeled vehicle before a turn. If you attempt to simply turn the bars to the right in a turn the bike will try and go left. You can’t initiate a left or right turn without first counter steering in the opposite direction. It is impossible.

[@DashingAnjel]

Thank you bro you clarified a lot

[@z-ro34]

I find i'm constantly switching my "lane" inside of the lane on some highways to avoid sketchy pavement creases. Do you all have to do that? I must look like a psycho 🤣

[@JibblesBeJibbin]

Absolutely. Where i live most the roads are shit because of heavy gravel trucks, commercial vehicles. So I also "lane switch" within my lane to avoids bad pavement or large pot holes.

[@SimonRiley752]

All the time, even on regular roads. Constantly changing "lane" position.

[@sketch2002]

The entire lane is yours, use it. Sometimes you want to go far to the right to see around the traffic in front of you to see if anyone's creeping out into the intersection up ahead or clear to the left to look for oncoming traffic, etc. Go around pot holes, go around roadkill, do what you need to do to get home safely. Although, if you start to feel like you are goofing off, maybe you're pusing it a bit too much.

[@stephenzimmerman193]

​@@sketch2002 I'm with you, it's my spot in the lane idc what the cages think about me going back and forth. Dodging potholes, checking traffic, making sure I'm visible to people turning into traffic, etc...

[@sketch2002]

@@stephenzimmerman193 Yea, I mean, to an extent you do the same thing in a car anyway, you just don't have as much extra space and don't care as much about running over some stuff.

[@OfficerWongCho]

Use about 15 -20% of your rear brake when performing low speed turns for better stability. It also makes you look like a pro and not a baby rider.

[@fo4ty486]

Is rev matching necessary? Is holding in the clutch too long bad?

[@regisjung9809]

Awweasome explanation!!

[@armajunkie7058]

Only thing i think you missed was on the braking part, id like to have heard about the rear/front brake technique we use to keep the nose from diving, evenly loading the chassis when coming to full stops

[@ApexRadius]

Yep. For anyone not in the know reading this, apply the rear brake lightly just a hair before you squeeze the front brankes. Apply pressure progressively for front and rear but you should still be using mostly front brake pressure. It may require a more nuanced description than this but that's basically it. Shortens stopping distance and is key for emergency braking.

[@JessicaSimonson1976]

When I ride whether on my road bike or motorcycle I stop with primarily the rear brake. I don't like to load my front end. And I stop just fine never ran a light or intersection. Often you'll see me when braking, my right hand is opening my visor on my helmet. Tires should be properly inflated otherwise they will wash out on a lean.

[@233kosta]

Countersteering will tip your bike at any speed. It's not a physics threshold, it's a _perception_ threshold. Depending on the bike and how much of a death grip you have on the bars, you need to be going past a certain speed until you notice that you're countersteering, but even if you don't notice, you instinctively do it. The gyroscopic thing sounds really cool and seems legit until you run some numbers. Then you realise it doesn't actually do much. Nor is it necessary. The bike in motion is a bit like a stick balanced on your finger. The top tries to fall over and you move the bottom to balance it. Exact same thing on the bike. That's how countersteering works. Add to that steering geometey that causes the front wheel to steer into the lean, and you get a self-balancing stick. As long as the rider doesn't prevent the steering geometey from doing its thing. At low speeds the self-steering effect can be weaker than friction in the system, so you have to manually catch that lean with a lot of steering input. This is also why you get the wobbles at very low speed - your brain is actively countersteering to stabilise the bike, often times without you realising.

[@billyrigg7829]

Do you have any recommendations for a beginner bike? I’m looking for affordable, reliable and safe as it could be I suppose. I’m 6’2 270 pounds. I prefer the cruiser style and actually plan on going on a long tour in the next year or two when I get a bike. I was thinking to travel through the lower 48. I have very little experience. The biggest bike I ever rode was when I was a teenager riding my cousins 600 cc for four hours topped out at 94 miles an hour aside from that I’ve ridden some scooters here and there. The last time I rode was recently here Bangladesh. If it matters, I’m not very physically fit I let myself go a little since my time in the army. Thanks for any advice/suggestions. God bless and thanks for the safety tips.

[@crazyhorse851]

Not sure if this is a myth, but at what speed do you start lowering your head position, asking because around 40mph i start to feel sketched out with the air hitting my chest lol I’m a beginner

[@BradleyCrandall]

Great video to quash these myths! OC

[@silvermonk13]

The front brake provides the most braking for any motor vehicle.

[@williamnewkirk6316]

What about "loud pipes save lives"? The biggest Harley boy myth.

[@hooviedoovie5220]

If you ride a 2 stroke bike, then yes engine braking is damagaing your engine. The oil is in your fuel and when you give engine no fuel during decel, you give it no oil. Pull clutch in on decel for two strokes

[@charles_b]

OC - your MT10 is beautiful

[@milbin1795]

The engine braking on my 300ss is nuts, in 1st or 2nd that is.

[@TheStigsThirdCousin]

Ok i weigh 300lbs, would it be wrong to start on a 600? Ive rode a few dirtbikes in my time so i know how to ride, as well as understanding power and weight differences on the two types of motorcycles.

[@chaseontwowheels]

For your size I'd recommend more of a 650 / 700 class with parallel twins for the added torque. I may be biased though because I love those.

[@jakemarley5783]

In my opinion this is the only "myth" I don't agree with. I was 350 lbs. 6 ft. 4, when I got my first bike. I drove alot of friends bikes before I found one. I felt like I was being smart by wanting a smaller bike to start with. Don't get the wrong bike, because you're afraid it's "too much bike" first and foremost make sure you fit on it and are comfortable. Whether it's a boss hoss or a honda grom you're the one who is controlling it. My first bike was vtx 1800 because It was one of the only bike I was comfortable on for more than 30 min. Yes, it was heavy and fairly powerful but all the rookie mistake close calls that i had that cause new riders to get hurt would've happened regardless it was hayabusa or 400cc. bike. Comfort and proper fit should be your first priority. But chase is right about the engine size, you probably don't want to less than that 700cc because you'll be struggling at interstate speed. And of course that is dependent on the style of bike your looking for. Good luck on finding one, be safe, and have fun.

[@TheStigsThirdCousin]

@@chaseontwowheelsThank you very much for the advice!

[@TheStigsThirdCousin]

@@jakemarley5783Thank you!

[@elyklenzak7695]

damn i was a minute late to the premier of the video, but 1st one here for the fresh upload, lol.

[@dewgyhouserm.d.4224]

Countedsteering works at every speed, it is just more obvious the faster you go

[@sbeast1216]

What model is the black & gold bike? MT-09?

[@exc2089]

Mt10

[@sbeast1216]

@exc2089 his? Did he wrap it?

[@kenbowlus2995]

@@sbeast1216 His, he painted it himself in an older channel video.

[@RiotClientsSecurity]

video with motojitsu when?

[@davinwilliams3130]

Watch fortnine's video on how motorcycles steer. He did a great demonstration on how countersteering works at any speed.

[@nathanwimhurst822]

what are those mirrors on your m10

[@logang8690]

dairyland wanted 850$$ to start up bike insurance then said they couldn’t insure me

[@_JimmyBeGood]

You can squeeze hard on the brake if you have ABS.

[@omgitsabloodyandroid5161]

If you get Euro or Aussie style training, you will know ALL the stuff you need before you’re trying to die on the road

[@SwagSikh]

17:40 what helmet is that?

[@jamieleeper8215]

I feel like a hypocrite when I tell people to start on a small bike. I started on a 2007 dyna wide glide with the 96 ci (~1600cc). Unfortunately where I live it is mostly flat, straight highways between small towns. That being said I think for the majority of people a 650 cruiser or any other 400cc bike would be a great size if you live somewhere that has any sort of stop and go traffic or curves in the road.

[@Kylemestyle]

braking in corners and leaning off the bike benefits in corners

[@tjbarke6086]

The biggest thing about countersteering is to just not really worry about it that much. If you've ridden a bicycle at a decent speed, you already know how to do it.

[@tshivhulatshilidzi9209]

Is an R7 a good beginner bike?

[@abell8533]

I don't agree with number 4 . I started on a 600 cc r6 and not having an accident ever. I know people on 250 cc still get killed. Get the one you can afford and want and understand that if you mess up it would kill you regardless of cc

[@kentaylor5741]

The only reason I kinda disagree is because if you’re on a 125 250 cc bike and you whiskey throttle the highest you will go is 20-30 MPH. Maybe 35 MPH you redline. Try that on a H2, S1000, CBR 1000. It will be the last time you touch the throttle.

[@SimonRiley752]

Anecdotal. Not the norm.

[@abell8533]

@@SimonRiley752 so is his point then

[@markosz22]

That highly depends on the person buying the bike. Probably not good idea for an adrenaline junkie teen to start on a 100+ HP bike, because he's going to pass his own skills immediately and fly into the nearest tree. While on a weaker bike it's harder to make a deadly mistake (on your own). People looked at me weirdly when I started on an MT-09, but I'm 30+ and pretty careful, reserved rider, more afraid of my own limits so I'm not pushing it hard, but I got the occasional scare when I got carried away and enjoyed myself a little too much. As a bonus the extra safety features and top-notch electronics help, I wouldn't be so sure on a plain old 600cc bike.

[@EspoC2]

You guys do know that most modern higher cc bikes have rider modes, traction control, Abs ext...

[@PhillymadeQuan]

3:50 “turn right to go left” so Doc hudson WAS right