Cheap 3Kw PSU for Induction Heater ll Huawei R4850G2 PSU

[@gregzarkodimos9711]

Just landed on this channel. If I wasn't so broke, i'd buy into the 1st minute plug, just genius

[@larrypalmer7136]

I've come to expect great electrical videos from your channel, the really nice enclosure fabrication was unexpected. Nice work.

[@lronet]

Tested this little controller on the Huawei R4875G 4KW 75 amp supply. Voltage controller worked great. I do not have a load bank sufficient to test the current limiter. I expect it will work just fine. Also using one of the PC card plugs available online. The card plug has a pair of CAN leads that connect together, however my supplies seem to start right up without those lines grounded. The R4875G is exactly the same size as the 4850, however it has more switching devices inside. R4875 delivers 75 amps at 240vac 53.6vdc or 32.5 amps at 120vac. The 4850 is 56.1 amps / 25.2 @ 120vac. both range from 41.2 v to 58.8v with the controller, and seem to remember setting as long as the controller is connected. I also installed a 37 ohm 2 watt resistor in series with the red fan header wire (to quiet it), using a $5 temperature controller to short the series resistor if the power supply gets hot. Any higher value resistor will cause the fan to surge. The tiny temp controller gets power from the fan header, so easy to hook up. www.banggood.com/Digital-Temperature-Control-Switch-Adjustable-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-12V-Cooling-Controller-W1701-p-1587150.html?rmmds=detail-topright-recommendation&cur_warehouse=CN I think this controller will fit entirely inside if the screw terminal is removed and wires soldered directly. R4875G on Taowow baowow.. item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=604456015560&ft=t&toSite=main. A brand new one is about $75 US and about the same to ship it using this service. It came very quickly. Ali Express has them also, $100 plus shipping, so this way is cheaper and much faster. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001762436248.html Thanks for turning me on to this little gem..

[@johnnycash4034]

So the voltage range is what you stated between 40 and 50 ish?

[@lronet]

@@johnnycash4034 about 41.2 to 58.8. I also discovered if you use two of these controllers with a dpdt switch, you can switch instantly between 42v and 58.8v This could easily be done with a logic circuit. Also I noted that in the center off position, the power supply didn't boot. once it boots, it stays booted. I had not grounded the other cann lines though. I used a miniature dpdt center off switch and just switched between the two controllers cann wires (blue and yellow). I'm now debating if I want to keep this circuit, or just put a single controller on my LDmos amplifier project.

[@laurentfievre5652]

Lonnie Have you a link available to order the can bus module? I m interested to bought it Regards laurent

[@robertsimpson8503]

I bought the same 4875 and I'm just starting to set it up. I came back to this video specifically to see if the controller would work with it, so thank you Have you done anything else to yours?

[@motherjoon]

your videos are very clean and well paced. Well done.

[@victoryfirst2878]

Thanks for showing me TaoBao services fella. This will help me out just great.

[@lost4468yt]

mPrice has smick smocked right up there since this :( $92 (USD) as of March 9th 2021

[@shouryaumang6211]

I'm stumped by the power density here and at this price point it is unbeatable! Looks like a ZVS Full bridge converter after an active PFC rectifier. Im making a similar PSU but its nowhere close to this beast!

[@Beast80K]

I recently came across your Channel, I watched so many videos, content quality is really good ! We as an audience can see you're efforts. Keep It Up ! Merry Christmas 🎄!

[@Farm_fab]

It was good to see you weld without filler wire. You can do the same thing when welding laminates on a transformer. It will be quicker, and will look much nicer as well. Keep up the good work.

[@sortofsmarter]

great video.. I've been watching you sense " how to rewind a microwave oven transformer" you've come a long way...keep it up....

[@Schematix]

Wow, thanks!

[@sortofsmarter]

@@Schematix You were gone for so long I was worried....Glad to see you back and love the new shop..you have a great format and integrity

[@sortofsmarter]

@Norm T sorry....english is not my first language

[@mikeselectricstuff]

Soldering would be just fine - it wouldn't melt

[@burgersnchips]

Even with 50A going through it?

[@burgersnchips]

@Norm T So, lead-free solder evaporates to almost nothing over time? I don't believe you.

[@burgersnchips]

@Norm T I was of the belief that dry joints were caused by incorrect soldering at point of manufacture, be it a dirty connection, lack of flux, incorrect use of heat etc. I'm aware of Tin whiskers and the dangers. I wasn't aware that Tin spontaneously vaporises into a gas and leaves the system entirely. I have some soldering experience myself and agree that lead free solder is hugely inferior. I didn't mean to offend as much as I clearly have. Hope you have a Merry Christmas if you celebrate it 🙂

[@blise518B]

@Norm T interesting... i never heard that before. So this happens to all Solder joints eventually? Can you counteract it by making high power connections just bigger so the load gehts spread around better? I’m a hobbyist building drones and electric vehicles were ist not uncommon to pull 100A and so far i never had problems with my solder joints.

[@Mark6E]

The problem with soldering is that any stress will rip the pcb traces off. This means the other end needs to be solidly mounted to an enclosure. This is my progress so far i.postimg.cc/zDxCpSbX/IMG-20210114-220002.jpg

[@ianbaker3281]

I fit these power supplies for a media company here in the UK, we use Eltec flatpack HE2. They are the same as that one you have. Very interesting video.

[@Mosfet510]

Those are impressive numbers, quite a respectable amperage there. Good grab for $35!

[@jared85028]

Thank you so much for sharing love your cinematography good Cuts good edits great commentary fantastic build

[@simonstergaard]

Sweet when that lid slides in to the box...sweeet

[@fvckyoutubescensorshipandt2718]

Pretty impressive that you get all those parts for $35. Was expecting to see a mostly empty box like cheap 500w ATX supplies.

[@randybobandy9828]

This isn't $35. The cheapest I found was $115 shipped from china.

[@fvckyoutubescensorshipandt2718]

@@randybobandy9828 yeah that sounds more realistic. $35 sounds too good to be true.

[@firstmkb]

I think they were dumping them at the time after the company’s products were banned from some other countries. He got a hell of a deal at that price!

[@msf7168]

Really incridible explanation about induction heating power supply...

[@frensoshaker4884]

man i respect how u make things .... so hat up for u

[@DonnyHooterHoot]

I just soldered wires direct to mine! Works fine!

[@stevenandros4586]

Great video! Given your comments I decided to give Taobao Focus a try. I just ordered a power supply and the control board $59.75 for both (NOT including shipping to the USA)!!! I paid for the product, THEN, a few days later, I get the bill for shipping: $95.03 for a package that can't weigh 7 pounds! Taobao Focus is a RIPOFF!

[@lronet]

There is a Huawei R4875 4kw unit on aliexpress now. I ordered one, I hope that this voltage control works for it. Does the 4850 still run without the internal fan connected? How is the noise level? BTW.. this was a great video. very well done, even if I don't intend to make a heater... I use mine for an HF amplifier I am building now.

[@OtherDalfite]

Schematix, if you're ever in a situation where that flux gets on the threads of it's container, clean it off ASAP. I was fool and left some of mine on the threads and the lid literally glues itself shut.

[@victoryfirst2878]

Thank you for letting us all know about this power supply. What I am wondering is the average life expectancy of this unit ??? The power density is way up there. Look forward to you making the other part which is the induction heater. Great work too. V

[@ReinisLusis]

This is gold! Thank you!

[@JawadAhmadsahibzada]

the thin wires which needed to be connected with ground to turn on PSU , i added a switch there - easy turn on and off.

[@cocosloan3748]

Coool ! You can use 2 of those to drive Hi-fi power amplifier 2x 3000W !

[@robertsimpson8503]

Will the current/voltage controller work with the R4875G? I hope so cuz I've already ordered it and it's about to ship. Obviously I think you're brilliant enough that I'm following what you're doing and making my own, please continue doing what you're doing It's very helpful for newbies like me

[@KCBhandy]

Just finished mine. Induction heater is next 😊👍

[@mattdunlop6056]

Instructions unclear, PSU now supplying 1.21 gigawatts at 88mph

[@christopherstaples6758]

my new fav PSU , better than combining HP DPS-1200FB

[@lj516]

Look at the hp c7000 2450w 200A psu, $20 on ebay power factor correction and 120-240v input but it's nothing on the flexibility of this one so it's become my new favorite too!

[@isoladeipirati]

Beautiful video! So helpful that I subscribed to your channel. Thank you

[@papengom8358]

This video help me to use my power supply

[@DINETH-s9k]

Sir, I am near (HUAWEI R4875G1)Is the pin out of the said model the same as yours? Please provide an answer.

[@jessstuart7495]

13:39 Nice sheet metal brake.

[@mouldykev]

Another Great video, just found the PSU on Ebay for AU $ 49 only problem is shipping to the UK is $90.70 is there a way around this as you were describing. kev

[@electronic7979]

Excellent

[@joedevlin4418]

Is the DC referenced to earth or is it a floating system? Being a telco rectifier I'd assume that the positive would be earth referenced but I'm unsure whether that would be done at the individual rectifier level or at the frame level.

[@rogeronslow1498]

They are floating outputs. The +48V is grounded in the cabinet. So telecoms systems have 0V and -48Vdc.

[@Mark6E]

@@rogeronslow1498 Not on this, mine has DC negative connected to case internally.

[@rogeronslow1498]

@@Mark6E Is is 48V or 24V? That is very unusual. All the power systems I've seen always have the common connection after the rectifiers output on the busbar. For 48V systems the pos is grounded and the circuit breakers are in the negative line. The reverse is normally the case for 24V systems. If your rectifier has the case connected to negative it's no problem as you probably want negative connected to chassis anyway. There is always the possibility that the y-cap from the neg output to chassis has shorted due to a voltage surge and that's why its connected to chassis. Maybe that's why it was going cheap?

[@Mark6E]

@@rogeronslow1498 Thanks for replying, would there be a Y cap between dc- and the case? Other people have said they run these in series, which wouldnt work on mine with dc- connected to PE. I will open it up and look.

[@rogeronslow1498]

@@Mark6E The incoming mains is full wave rectified (but not smoothed) and fed to an active power factor corrector stage. This provides an excellent PF of around 0.99 to the mains supply. The +/- 400V dc is then fed to an LLC resonant bridge converter that provides the galvanic isolation and step down to 54V dc for float charging the 48V lead-acid batteries used. Some older supplies use a hard switched full bridge converter but most high power density supplies have an LLC topology. In both cases the dc output is filtered to clean it up and reduce the conducted and radiated EMI due to ETSI 300 compliance. The EMI filter will contain a common mode choke and Y-caps from pos and neg to the chassis. These will normally be very close to the output connector. It's possible that in your case one of the Y-caps has short circuited and is pulling the neg rail to chassis. This would explain why the neg output is connected to chassis.

[@JawadAhmadsahibzada]

I purchased used PSU at 12.5$ and thanks to you , now outputs is 53.4v - that small module is expensive then PSU 😂 - I will use step up converter (1800w 40A) to increase voltage - will use it to charge 16S and 20S ebike batteries with it.

[@laurentfievre5652]

Hello Jawad how did you far the can module Impossible to my side to found it

[@laurentfievre5652]

*how did you found

[@JawadAhmadsahibzada]

@@laurentfievre5652 i purchased that CAN BUS module out of curiosity 😜 it does work, but i'm using boost converter and adjust output from that, in case you want to see my build, here is the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3fXqZ2derV8pcU

[@laurentfievre5652]

boot converter is avaliable to manage 60A ?

[@JawadAhmadsahibzada]

@@laurentfievre5652 30A max at 53V , output 1500watt at 84v...

[@itanc1]

another very watchable film dood. useful stuff that psu. take care

[@vincenthamilton4792]

Could you please explain to me your welding technique without filler? Are you holding the filler to use at the start and end of the weld? Also really confused about how the top of that 7805 voltage regulator fell off at 11:19 when you applied the soldering iron...

[@wojowrench4716]

Your video on how to build a 3000W induction heater and PSU is awesome! I just bought a 2500W ZVS induction heater- it was local and a good price... I have a 2000W Delta PSU that I am going to use to power it... I have question - I will be using the unit to solder Carbide grit to steel that is 0.75" width by 0.75" height but it is not straight... it is in a 3" radius semi circle - basically it is a J Hook!. I need to solder grit evenly coated inside radius of the J(for gripping purpose) - which is tricky!! - If I make a coil big enough to fit the entire steel J by lowering it in from the top.... the entire part will heat up and the solder melt and grit will slump to the lowest point of the J... I so I have to make a smaller coil for localized heating and basically insert the J hook from the side and rotate it keeping the solder area level... - So I have to make a side mount coil about 2-3" in dia - about 2 wraps of copper tube (1/4") (Sorry for the big explanation !!) .... Now to the Question 1) If I reduce copper coil size will it place to much stress on the induction heater - aka lots of energy less area to dissipate? Or will the less wraps increase localized heat at the solder site? (aka the reverse of the first scenario?

[@PerchEagle]

so the type of applications clear many things of electronics in certain area is working. like this psu which is used in cellular towers. now I learned what range if voltages used in this type of applications. of course they are using power electronics devices for the powerful electromagnetic waves. the voltage is not so high it's 56 volts but the current is really high a question come now to my mind is that where voltages of hundreds or thousands are used ?

[@bigmonkey999888]

Merry Christmas and a happy new year

[@angusmitchell3901]

Love the video! I'm wondering why you added the RCD? I believe it's AS/NZS now for buildings to have RCDs. Am I wrong in assuming these would protect you if you were to come into contact with the AC line?

[@jimstravoulellis2602]

Excelent and stydied approach to eerything you do!

[@alexandermuratov7728]

An excellent solution in the construction of the device. Thanks for the idea! Can you please tell me where to connect the heating pedal (turning on)? What kind of relay is required or is there any heating control contacts on the circuit?

[@Mr_Wh1]

@Schematix Did your R4850G2 become very hot when turned on without a load on the output? Mine do, and I am pretty sure it's not supposed to happen. I just want to be certain it isn't some weird supply pumping, or inductance dumping that causes energy to be converted to heat. The supplies are very expensive now, so I would prefer not to have to buy a new one...

[@zenonkazienko988]

I'd love if you would show it's efficiency (power in/out) at a few load values in your followup video if possible? Also wondering about the current limit setting and variable voltage limits. You mention that the voltage can be set in the range of 41-58V and 0-60A. If you say set a limit of 10A into a 2ohm load this would only require 20V. Can it do that or can it only do current control when the matching voltage is within the 41-58 range?

[@johnnycash4034]

My question also. Too bad the cnt doesn't reply here.

[@didierlugan2601]

to improve the solderability of tabs, do some small holes on the tabs, where the tin welding goes; your welding seems a little strange? so, very good project!

[@grahamjones6712]

This kind of power supply could be used to charge the new lifopo4 batteries also

[@james10739]

That's crazy that you can get all that generally they are not really current limited except just a shut down and I assume that is really when it can't supply the voltage anymore so it shuts down

[@АлександрКривоус-п3ш]

The 1 and 5 legs are supplied with a voltage of 0 to 5 volts to adjust the current, or can you install a trimmer between the 1 and 5 legs? To adjust the voltage between 1 and 16 feet, can you put a trimmer resistor or do you need to supply a voltage from 0 to 5 volts?

[@Convolutedtubules]

Easiest way to control via switch or foot pedal? Can the pin connected to ground be used or would it be better to use some kind of contactor or relay?

[@marmac567]

How did you know all that about a unit youve not seen before??

[@chriseli22]

Hi there, where you buy that psu? I look for it on ebay and the cost is 140$ more or less. I want to buy a few for 35$ each haha

[@mbsingh4597]

Hello, Nice information. Would like to know if this taobao voltage & Current limiter needs to be in the circuit permanently or if it should be removed after its job is over and the new voltage and current limits you set remain and the Power supply boots up to the new parameters after removing it from the circuit? it's not clear how to know what current is set as there was no visual of it after pressing twice to get into the current setting mode and the red LED blinks. Please let me know. Thank you.

[@Viddiecent]

So cool! With that kinda power I could do Very Cool, Dangerous, Fun things hehe

[@sarrab.marketingservices5384]

thanks so much ,good work...we want a video about how to repair it

[@marknichols7861]

Prices aren’t anywhere near $35 US. Shipping is at, or more than the cost of the PS. No sale!

[@Ютрубкер]

На Авито есть в Москве за 4500,у меня в избранном,LTO уже приехал жду MS на 300А с зарядным током 60А,... Спасибо 🤝 большое за видео,вовремя,сам бы долго разбирался что да как...

[@SeanHodgins]

I wonder if a hot swap connector could be 3D printed. But maybe it would melt. Does anyone know what the mating connector looks like? edit: Just looked it up, you can buy the connector for the back PCB for around $20 too and it has heavy duty connectors built into it.

[@أبوعلي-ح2ي8ل]

عندي سؤال مهم هل من الممكن ان تصهر الفولاذ او صنع واحدة اقوا لصهر الفولاذ

[@garagenliebe3843]

Nice Video, can you tell me which output values the notebook powersupply from your electromagnetic vise already has?

[@jacquesblais6094]

I see that you used the Tig, was your case in metal or aluminum because you cut your background with the CNC for your fan.thank for the Video

[@marianodiaz461]

the price of these supplies are now thru the roof, can you please suggest an alternative? but please let us know privately maybe rewind a transformer?

[@artificialintel]

Excellent display of ingenuity.

[@nigel-matthews]

That's a nice looking PSU, but the shipping is $65 to the US. Twice the price of the unit.

[@station240]

Mine was shipped DHL, the limited amount of airfreight capacity means heavy items have to be sent that way or they take several months to arrive.

[@vincei4252]

Or you could pay over $70-$120 from other vendors on eBay and Aliexpress and still have the luxury of paying a smaller shipping fee and waiting months. chose your poison.

[@vincei4252]

For the record I received the two I ordered via DHL. So just over 1 week to get from Australia to the US. The units are totally brand new and never been used. I was so impressed I just bought 2 more from the same place in Aussie land. meh on the shipping.

[@ardwikarindra9261]

mantaaaaaaaaaaap sir heating induction nya luar biasa iam from tambun west java Indonesia

[@romanvarcolac2238]

Hacksaw: The ultimate in PSU adaption technology

[@darwinwandler9136]

can you apply DC input by plugging in AC to PS with RF heater circuit coil having a steel load in coil?

[@dreamcat4]

Great video, was just wondering where you got the extra wide insulation tape from, can you recommend ? It would be also nice to know if we have anything like that R4850G2 psu available locally here in UK since it does not seem to be available here. And the shipping cost is otherwise twice the value of the unit itself. But of course you would not expect you to know such alternatives, living so far away!

[@Music_Engineering]

That sponsor segway was SO random! Love it

[@landroveraddict2457]

Great video, thank you for sharing. Did you make the CNC router?

[@manhid1587]

good video, thank you, please review the Delta ESR-48 40A so that the DC voltage can be adjusted

[@nagoyakuroi6353]

ohhh i wanted to see the end product .... now have to wait next year

[@hussainshabbir540]

I am curious if we can connect this PSU in series safely ? Would appreciate your suggestions and tips on how to do it

[@change_your_oil_regularly4287]

Just ordered one! Brand-new $65 AUD delivered 👍 This is probably a stupid question but how do you get a 3kw output from a 2.4kw input? Not std 10amp.... duh see stupid question

[@chuckels431]

Looks like the Output is only 25A with 120V input @ 17A

[@elylopes7343]

I ordered the Huawei R4850G2 and the Talbao encoder to build my power supply, as per this video. Removing the top enclosure of the R4850G2 to connect the ground and the regulated 5 Volts, I could not find the 3 pins the author used to take the 5 Volts from. The circuit in my R4850G2 looks like kind of different from the one the author shows. I took two pictures of the circuit in my R4850G2 to show this issue. Can anybody help me to discover how to take the regulated 5 Volts from the circuit in my R4859G2?

[@on2mvh937]

Can you give me the link for the encoder please. Not finding it...

[@mezzoono]

Love your work - It would be interesting your thoughts on the Eltek Flatpack2 48v??

[@elderbautista3202]

What is the link to buy the voltage converter module on Taobao Focus please

[@Milkex]

glad to see you loving the chisel tipped TS80 as well!

[@24BLUEELMO]

Do you know if theirs a 36v psu ? Was thinking of linking 3 12v for an audio amplifier, but if theirs one already even better

[@ajaykumargupta4367]

Dear friend Your explanation as well your vedio is outstanding. I salute you. frequency you get output to be fed to induction coil ? Can you please make power supply vedios for one Kg gold melting?

[@cncdavenz]

Merry Christmas to you and yours. Nice power supply I bet it is also power factor corrected. Do you have a link ?

[@manumishra5849]

Very very appreciable sir . I want to buy this PSU R 4850G2 . Plz guide and if possible to assemble this PSU power supply at home. Plz provide Gerber file of this . If possible thanks a lot. 1:05

[@StreamzNow]

any idea wherew to find the volatge adjuster? the website listed doesnt work anymore

[@Convolutedtubules]

How was it so cheap? Mine cost me €85 with shipping.

[@MURPHYRICHARD1]

What are these 3k psu out of or belong to, or are they gust a power unit on its own

[@bolajiben]

Thanks, after repair i was utnable to test the output supply but when I watch the backplain looping you did, I was able to load test it, thanks bro, I want to know how to test the output for Delta dpr48/30 bdce

[@Protocol-X]

I was thinking about using a few hp dps-750 in series as they are cheaper here and have a high current for 110v. What would be the safest way to make them adjustable once in series? I looked around and most videos are using dc -dc converters, but they don't handle high currents.

[@KernsJW]

Nice find and video. Also, great ideas for connecting to the unit. While you were soldering, Why not heat the pcb and then copper to pull in solder more? As for the mains, couldnt you use heat shrink on the mains lines versus tape? I keep thinking I should by a tig and move away from mig when I see videos like this!

[@Schematix]

Thanks! Heating the PCB would definitely help the solder to wick into the joint. The insulation tape is only temporary while I was testing on the bench.

[@iz5cbmpaolobennati51]

Hi good morning. i would be interested in using this power supply to power an rf amplifier, modules require 65v but 50-53v is fine too. a curiosity, what are the differences between the G and G2 version as circuitry? are they activated and the current and voltage are drawn in the same way?how much can a similar power supply cost? thanks for the video

[@Egzoset]

It still a Mazzilli/Royer ZVS directly transfering workload to PSU, right??

[@pixiepaws99]

Can't find these anywhere near $30 anymore. They're at least $80-$150 + $70 shipping to Canada.

[@davidbroadfoot1864]

Those power supplies cannot be sourced for $35. They are typically 10 times that price.

[@gillesdesansac5474]

Where i can found voltage and flow control board PSE. Taobao merchand site not useful from Europe. Cant' fount it neither on ebay or aliExpress. Thanks

[@ajtucker4217]

I’m trying to make a power supply for an electric vehicle that I can very the volts and the amps for if I built two of these and isolated them could I run them and series to get around 100 V?

[@nitrousman8882]

the good prices on the R4850G2 are over :( ~$150-250 per piece from China to Canada

[@benwilliam1010]

awesome work, thanks for sharing

[@rafawrona8752]

what is the cost of this potentiometer with shipping?

[@rizkyp]

I got almost the same power supply from surplus supply also for mobile tower. Had to mod the fan thought it is very noisy.

[@randybobandy9828]

Price? Got a link?