Cheap 8000w Reliable Inverter, DIY Powerwall, Chevy Volt Batteries

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Follow up video to answer some common concerns: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqGsi6WohbGGhpI

[@igloobearred]

@DavidPoz I watched your other video... great job covering known variables. I'm NOT any kind of electrical engineer but I will say having worked in the maintenance industry and as an A/C technician... generally an a.c. motor upon startup will draw about 6× the running load amps... look at the data sheet for your saw and you should find 2 important numbers... rla= running load amps, or fla= full load amps... and most importantly LRA= LOCKED ROTOR AMPS... This represents current draw upon startup. I would personally investigate the properties of the mosfets and the fuses as to whether they were well engineered for a true 8k setup. Also... one other point of note. If this is a Chinese product, they are notorious for asserting product claims that exceed reality in actual installation performance values. Maybe it adds up to 8k in their engineering dept, but real world testing would fall short. I think you did an excellent job trying to solve this and address all the poor man PhD's out here in KZbin land. Best of luck. Hope you see my comment. Think I'll sub to your channel while I'm at it. Giving a 🖒for this vid

[@victorakpan889]

How cant I know the work

[@quevicular]

Dammit, Basement ScienceE stole my response. MOSFETs dont work upside down. The electrons drain out of them and pass by the gate!!! AHAHAHAH, GET IT!!! Ok, ill go away now and post a nerdy response somewhere else.

[@charlesharper2357]

So get yourself a reliable inverter, not a Reliable one...

[@EthanCJones]

So this video says without actually saying. Stay away from "Reliable" brand products.

[@keithcress1335]

Fun video David. FYI: The fuses they used in the inverter are not capable of protecting the MOSFETs. They are the very cheapest of low voltage fuses and they do an adequate job of preventing a fire. If one wants to protect semiconductors with fuses you must use extremely fast blowing fuses called semiconductor fuses. They are actually semiconductor in nature and are easily capable of accomplishing that task.. They aren't cheap however, costing $10 or more a piece. It usually costs less to add a little more circuitry that actively monitors the current thru the MOSFET and simply suspends turning ON the MOSFET if the current exceeds some limit. Then no fuses are blown and the inverter can live on.

[@Basement-Science]

Obviously your fault: You mounted it upside down, so all the electrons must have fallen out.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

LOL

[@tirtagttech512]

Basement ScienceE this made my day :)

[@fabiankerry6395]

looool

[@FrankNazario]

ROFLMAO

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

Perfect 👌

[@johnhenderson8360]

If I owned the company where I was supplying replacement due to a previous failure, and I knew my replacement might show up on youtube, I would be sure the replacement would have been tested under similar load conditions.

[@danhard8440]

I know right I was thinking the same

[@bial12345]

Unless your products are garbage to begin with.

[@jaimecanizalesarmas6291]

unit has nothing to do with being bad it's the start load current that the saw draws to start the unit sees a brief short and causes it to short out it's dewalts tool design flaw that they really were not made or had in mind that there tools would be used with a power inverter ! further more all power tool companies should look into this matter!....

[@fbsurveyor]

yep, I bet it works if used correctly. It surprises me how many people open something and then throw away the instructions. I've seen things not work and piss somebody off and I find the instructions and start reading and lo and behold somebody didn't do something right. Not sure if that's how to spell lo and behold. I've seen numerous times when something gets put together without the instructions and you get to step 11 and have to take everything apart because you neglected to perform step 2 in the proper order. I wouldn't do that. Again. Oh hey look it says may not work with certain appliances or tools that use a high amount of amps to start or something similar.

[@IkanGelamaKuning]

the company should jest send 1m cheque and no further video.

[@ljprep6250]

Get real cables to feed that monster, David. Go with 4/0 gauge welding cable and hydraulically crimp the terminals on. Then you'll see what an inverter can put out. P.S: I painted my walls in the shop white and the difference in lighting is amazing. It doubled the usable light without a single extra watt. Highly suggested.

[@user-ml3bp5mk8l]

Inductive loads like your chop saw can require up to 7 times the running wattage, which would be over 12,000 watts - way past the rating of your inverter. Most likely, your 3kw inverter was a low frequency inverter and the 8kw is a high frequency inverter. LF inverters will normally handle inductive loads much better. When running powerful motors, always multiply the watts x7.

[@LastExile1989]

They're all High frequency inverters. From this manufacturer.

[@Dc_tech386]

No your wrong listening to the man question 3kw run it but not 8kw I know what cause it it’s the spwm halfbridge driver is the big issue the driver ic is rated for 2.9 amp surge with 12 igbt and each igbt draw 1 amp full surge what you think will have when the others or trying to turn it will blow and that it the issue I love building inverter and that was my first mistake using 3 amp driver ic to power 10 kw everything blow up and till I use emitter follower that give 7 amp per channel at 12 amp surge the unit just power Nicely at 6kw load the Same that blow it first so I know it’s the driver ic

[@yveslegault6825]

An electric motor is a dead short when you pres the trigger switch and it has not started running yet. A 15 amps rated electric motor may draw in excess of 45 amps at startup. Unfortunately, semiconductors react way much faster that a fuse or a breaker. A breaker may trip after some 50 msec or more. That 35 amps breaker will trip at about 50 amps... If that current is present long enough. A fuse will blow within 10 msec, and faster if the overcurrent is high enough. A semiconductor like a MOSFET will likely blow within 100 microseconds if the absolute maximum rating of the part is exceeded. Furthermore, there is the voltage issue which a breaker or a fuse does not protect against. An electric AC motor is basically a DC motor on which the connections are switched. A coil switching can create voltage spikes over 10 time higher than the driving voltage. So, driving the motor with 120 VAC may have given spikes in excess of 1,000 V. That would certainly exceed the absolute maximum rating of the MOSFETs, blowing them up. In turn, the fuses would blow as MOSFETs often short when they blow up. Conclusion: A strong voltage limiter in the dV/dt domain would need to be used.

[@fjs1111]

Exactly, well said. The LRA (locked rotor amperage) is always higher than the rated power and and you said the semi's will burn faster than a fuse but a 8000w inverter is about 66amps @ 120v. What's happening is for some reason, in my opinion because this is working on your 3000w inverter is that the saw is putting out harmonic distortion of some sort that may be interfering with the circuit's feedback loop and cooking the FET's, FET's are not good quality, over-voltage situation internal, too many potentials to list. There are plenty potential problems that are catastrophic to inverters. My thinking may be the company selling them does not actually mfg. so they are different circuits, quality components, etc. vs the 3000w one. The giveaway was the different color cables; typical of cheap Chinese companies...

[@johnsalmons9222]

Thankyou for your educated comment, bringing light to a dim corner of the web and no thanks or interest from the uploader, hey ho, takes all sorts

[@Elfnetdesigns]

@A seagypsy's Adventures The 3Kw inverter may be using better quality fets and have better protection..

[@DennisGentry]

More simply, when the MOSFET switches off, the magnetic field in the motor makes the current "attempt" to keep flowing and the voltage shoots way beyond the supply voltage. MOSFETs really can't be driven above their rated voltage, so a well-designed circuit would have a fast-acting "snubber" or back-EMF limiter. They're a really standard component of any PWM motor controller or switching power supply -- the Reliable Electric folks will have to include good protection for the MOSFETs. (You can sort of get away without a snubber by using FETs with much higher voltage ranges than the supply, and FETs have a built in body diode that helps a little, but it's obviously insufficient in this case.)

[@terryglenweaver]

Well I was about to say the 3000 watt inverter ran the miter saw therefore the 8k watt inverter certainly should have as well. That brings us to the components inside the inverter... namely the mosfets. But even that was discussed. *However* So my final additions and possible solution is to ask the company if the mosfets from the 3k watt inverter can replace the mosfets in the 8k watt inverter albeit the 8k watt inverter would require more mosfets than the 3k inverter and if the schematics simply added more of the same mosfets to elevate output wattage. As others stated; using protectors could help. But that would still not allow the inverter to run the miter saw. Yet there is a way to prevent the overloading... The use of Capasitors (starting capasistor) should allow the miter saw (or other rapid high drain devices) to "cushion" the start up sufficiently. *Also* They have these systems that prevent high surges for homes. Although the cost of these units may exceed the value it allows. (Yes, they claim it will dramatically reduce one's electric bill, but that is mostly a gimmick.) However, for this application I can see it being probably effective.

[@keithmichaels6188]

Often times the stamped amp rating of a device is its “running amps” however what they don’t always tell you is what amps it takes for start up. any electric motor regardless of size will use more amps at start up then as its running, the bigger the motor the more amps for start up, I would recommend putting a meter on it to find the start up amps (also known as “surge amps”)

[@TimeSurfer206]

Even at its maximum startup load, a circular saw should not exceed 15 Amps, which is only 1440 Watts. The inverter in question is stamped at 8,000. Whether that is Constant or Peak rating is, at this point, irrelevant.

[@StopThisIsBatCountry]

Well, guess that explains why they are using those 8000W units as "payment" for the promos of the 3000W one.

[@tomrandall4871]

In my 40+ years working with d.c. to a.c. inverters two main factors come into play. First low frequency inverters use mass of core magnetic resonance IE: big transformers to supply surge load. High frequency inverters use large mass battery power at rated voltage. Both types need over rated heavy cables. I beleve your battery pack being 44 vdc is not properly charging the 48 vdc capacitors in the 8kw inverter. Also those chevy volt batteries were designed for a string voltage in the 300 vdc range so the current draw surge is much less. I would try a different battery bank of agm / lead acid rated for a surge current of 1500 amps or more. Also use 1000 mcm copper strand wire. You get what you pay for. No free lunch. Cheers!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Hi Tom, Thanks, it's great to have someone comment with 4 decades of experience. Does an inverter exist on the market that has self-protection built into it? Such that no matter what mistake I throw at it the inverter will safely shut itself off. For example, my generator will safely shut itself down if it runs out of oil, then tell me it's low on oil.

[@tomrandall4871]

@@DavidPozEnergy I have transformer based inverters for my grid tied farm. Bought in 1998 from a company called Trace. I use 3 sw4024 sinewave inverters 1 is fulltime 120vac. 4kw continuous surge is 10kw. The other 2 are wired split phase 120/240 vac. Shop welder, air compressor, 3.5 ton a/c unit. Battery bank is 2 volt agm cells. Lucent telco batteries 1460 a.h. @ 10hr. Rate. Outback, magnum, are very good inverters. Trace was bought out by xantrax (to corner the home off grid market) now Schneider electric has the patent. They cost more than the lightweight China inverters but they work in -30 degree F weather. All of the inverters I have mentioned have circuit breakers. They have advanced fault management systems built in.

[@billymaroko3736]

@@DavidPozEnergy Yes. In Kenya I use Victron for high end clients 4000 watts costs about 5000 dollars. But for normal clients cheap Chinese which costs 400 dollars

[@jacquesb5248]

that "8000" look mighty light....way to light, also didn't see any transformer in there?

[@68HC060]

I think it all comes down to the transistors in the 3000W inverter are different than the transistors in the 8000W inverter. The ones in the 3KW inverter can obviously take more inrush current. If the transistors in the 3KW inverter are IGBT and the ones in the 8KW are MOSFETs, you'll see why this happens. Yes, it's possible to make a protection circuit that helps protect against the inrush current, but this needs to be made for the device you're connecting to the inverter, not the inverter itself. Refrigerators, aircondition and anything with a vacuum pump in it (or anything with a motor or large coil / transformer in it) may damage your inverter easily. The problem is not short circuiting, but it's "kickback voltage" (spikes) that a coil/transformer/motor generates, which is much higher than the voltage fed into the device. -So what I'd do, is to get a bunch of the smaller 3KW inverters and put one inverter per outlet instead of running all outlets on one inverter. This way you're also sure that you'll still have power if one inverter fails. ;)

[@boydclements6622]

Just to clarify my thought patterns: Anyone can go buy a integrated system and it will work. The cost is like an entire new car. David, in my opinion, is trying to build a budget based system that works and is stable. In the comments i have seen SMA, Magna, Spartan, and Aims. (I mentioned Aims) we skipped over Schneider. all are really good but all are more than double the reliable. Thanks David for doing our budget testing for us. I am leaning toward the AIMS but might decide on a Schneider. My system is in proof of concept stage now and, on paper, will power a Cabin off Grid. I have less invested in the entire system than some spend on just a top of the line Inverter. I will let you know if it works some time next year. Thanks David for doing so much of my R&D for me

[@fbsurveyor]

Hmm, how many times I've found out or proved that old saying "you get what you pay for".

[@ratheonhudson3311]

Reliable Electric, reliable customer service too :) I might order from these guys for my inverter soon. This is good test footage for the company to look at. You showed them load testing and fuses and tested what components failed. I hope they check it out

[@notyoung]

I've had a Reliable 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter as my backup power source for over five years. If power is off more than 30 minutes, I walk down to the basement and start my "silent generator". The battery bank is sized for "Wait until daylight" because I don't want to be out in a thunderstorm or shoveling 7 inches of snow in the dark at 30F to get out a gasoline inverter generator and get it started. The inverter works every time, running 28 cu ft fridge, 13.7 cu ft freezer and the blower for the furnace. I have a spare of the same inverter "just in case" but it's not been needed. If you understand the limits of HF inverters and don't put light-dimming loads on them (large miter and cutoff saws) they perform well. The only gasoline generator I'd try with a light-dimming load is the teen-aged 5KW Generac. The primary inverter has been used for 6 outages long enough to justify the trip to the basement in the past 6 years, for a total of 28 hours and 30 minutes (I track outages in a spreadsheet). The longest outages were 8 hours (no reason given, but the failure was at an aerial location that has had multiple failures over the past 4 years) and 12 hours (7 to 12 inches of snow in an area that rarely sees more than 3 inches). There's an online study on the life of AGM batteries that says they last longer if given an occasional partial discharge than if left at constant float voltage. I got almost 9 years from the previous set of AGM's so I'm doing a 10% discharge of the current battery bank every3 weeks or so. The load is enough halogen work lights to load the battery bank to 10% of its AH rating. Will the discharging and recharging to stir the electrolyte make a difference? Ask me in another 4 years ;-) I've already designed the replacement battery bank - LiFePO4 and with enough AH capacity to have 24 hours of instant backup power without needing solar panels or a generator.

[@ulyssesvarela6809]

Murphy's Law... A transistor protected by a fast-acting fuse will protect the fuse by blowing first.

[@flash001USA]

I said this to someone else who commented on this video. Even if the chop saw was shorted the inverter should have self protected itself but maybe you should have shown it running including a few measurements just for the sake of proof. With that said, most inverters especially the pure sinewave inverters seem to have issues with power tools like saws. I have a 6000 watt sinewave inverter that runs on 12 volts and it has the soft start feature which will protect it from surge currents and I also have a super cap right on the input for more surge current. It will run my freezer and refrigerator at the same time but if one is already running and the other kicks in there will be a small sag in the power for about 1 second. I have a high powered drill press that the inverter hates and the work around was to put a 100 foot AC extension cord in series with it. That not only solved the issue but the drill press starts up with zero flaws. That inverter you you purchased should NOT be blowing itself up even if you purposely shorted it out. The first one that blew could have been a fluke but the second one? Shame on them!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Thanks. Sounds like you have a nice inverter.

[@HomesteadEngineering]

I built a Magnum system that can run 8,800 watts continuous and 16,000 watts peak. The Magnum system could probably run 5 of these saws, under load, at the same time. I currently run house lights, TV's, computers, refrigerator, freezer, pool pump, 3 window AC units and the water heater all at the same time. It will also run my dryer. The Magnum system has really worked great so far.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Yeah, you have a beautiful system. I've never seen someone put in so much planning. I watched your series as you installed it. Plus your cans.

[@HomesteadEngineering]

Small world... I do tend to overplan but when I look back at earlier versions of my plans I am always glad I kept working out the bugs before I built it. I had a thought about your Reliable inverter. What if it's in some kind of standby mode that it can't wake up and respond fast enough to save itself. What if you had a 500W load on it before you start the saw? Lets get another one and try it! :)

[@tonywright7319]

The Magnum system had better be a good system considering he could probably buy 12 of those 8000 watt jobs for what you paid. The only problem with what I am saying is that he still don't have a working 8000 watt inverter and his 3000 will run the saw. If you are right that he needs a small wake up load to keep the inverter happy then that would be fine but it should still run the load if a 3000 watt inverter will. I just bought a 4000watt reliable inverter and now I am hoping that it is a beefed up 3000 watt in stead of half of a 8000 watt lol.

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

Please stop with the Magnum already. Never heard of them but I will watch a video if you will upload one.

[@HomesteadEngineering]

G Henrickson: Here is a video of the Magnum system in action: kzbin.info/www/bejne/in-scmpuap1pY68

[@frankd8957]

As an electrical engineer involved in the power distribution systems of industrial facilities for many years, I can tell you that motors connected directly to the power source (across the line)have what is called an inrush current. Standard AC motors, called squirrel cage, have a NEMA letter designation for the amount of inrush which can typically be 6X the rated maximum current. The motor in the saw is likely not a squirrel cage motor but probably a wound rotor motor - the rotor is not segmented metal but wire wrapped around a metal 'pole' going to an armature. So if you can connect the saw to a recording ammeter showing the maximum current demand, you will probably find it exceeds the rating of the inverter. The saw has a blade which adds to the inertia that must be spun. If you remove the blade and try to start it without the added inertia, the saw may start without tripping the inverter. You can also try a 'soft start' control between the saw and inverter which will limit the current to the saw and extend the time to full speed. Are you raedy to say: 'Beam me up Scotty?"

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Thanks for such a clear explanation for me.

[@everythingwaspicked8573]

For the sake of troubleshooting you should have shown that their was nothing wrong with the chop saw and perhaps even put an amp meter on it to prove it wasn't pulling more than than the inverters stamped surge rated capacity. At least the company can't point the finger back at you that its your tool's fault. Just my two cents... PS. Just the wife's account.

[@mark_osborne]

His chop saw runs fine on the 3000 watt Reliable inverter.

[@SnowAndrews]

What is the Momentary Surge Current on saw's motor starting ? (use a "high-sampling-rate data-logging metre, you may be in for a BIG surprise). Some cheep tools draw crazy amounts of current, just momentarily, when starting (no soft-start feature). This is why most of the world uses 230~240Volt / 400~415 Volt, because the CURRENT draw is halved (when comparred to North America) for comprable tools.

[@Combatants1]

Snow Andrews if you half the amps by doubling the volts . You have not reduced the wattage..

[@awecz]

Even if that saw had higher consumption, it should not end up with FETs being fried - this is why you have fuses. In fact, it should survive even short circuit on output.

[@TheBlackadder-Edmund]

@@Combatants1 You do not reduce the wattage but a system that is designed at higher voltages has to handle less current (Amps) and that has an impact on how a circuit or cabling size is designed. I believe Snow Andrews is on the spot, the issue here is the motor surge at the start, which could also explain the mosfets burning before the fuses, as the surge has the time to burn the mosfets before the fuses are totally burned. Even if the breaker was lower amperaje it is possible that it could not save the mosfets. Everythingwaspicked may also be right, there could be an issue with the chopsow (a short?), although it would be very risky to test it again with the 3000W and ruining that one also. Finally, maybe the 3000W can but the 8000W cannot, then maybe the 3000W is designed to handle the peaks but the 8000W not... Why? Design issue?

[@DelFam2011]

So glad I bought a Spartan power inverter (4400 watt @48v) instead of wasting my time and money on one of these. Spartan literally hit the market a week before I was ready to pull the trigger on getting a Reliable inverter too.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

O, cool. You are the first person I've met that has a Spartan. Do you have a video review of it? How's it doing?

[@lan2me]

@@DavidPozEnergy I've a 48V 2200W and a 24V 3300W. And let me tell you, those inverters are HEAVY in weight when compared to my two reliable 48V 3,000W!

[@DelFam2011]

Yeah I have a brief review of it on my channel. I will say this, I have ran that inverter non- stop on my off grid house (5kw solar, 2 Midnite 200's, 48v batt bank@ 1280 AH hr) and I threw the entire house at it everyday without a hiccup. I would have a coffee pot pot, the natgas furnace, washer and dryer, and all the lights and computers etc on. I went through several of those cheap Powerjacks deals and wasn't in the budget to buy a Magnasine so bought a Spartan and love it.

[@chuckles1954]

What about a large capacitor on the output? Sort of like a hard start cap on an AC unit. The cap would have a charge for hard starting without calling on the small electronics right away.

[@marcobrian1619]

Ok I'm in UK, so we are at 240v 50hz so motor starting is a little easier. But if you have capitors in you cut of saw and that are down, this will cause a bigger Serge in amps needing to start the motor. Also with capitors down would show up watt meter from the mains. Just an idea for a problem you have .

[@niwachien]

Thank you for warning us about the garbage unReliable Electric sells. Everyone should steer clear of that junk.

[@gdorfxoxo9657]

If u plan to be cheap this is the way to go

[@eyeorewolf]

Your issue is inductive load VS resistive load, where voltage is ahead of current and your inrush current to start the saw motor is obviously exceeding the capacity of the inverter or the breaker that you installed. It's one thing to know the operating current of an inductive load but you also have to consider the surge when powering up the load. Your failure may have been caused not by the current being drawn but by current generated back from the saw motor in it's static state due to "INDUCTION".

[@cotronixcoolson3999]

Use a 100 foot extension cord to reduce the inrush. Yes, it works.

[@fbsurveyor]

Hmmm, someone who reads instructions. Yeah it's surprising how much longer your electric power tools will last when you use the proper size wire. I'll never forget when I saw some carpenters trying to use a circular saw with 4 100 foot extension cords. It was hilarious. It would run but barely. When they'd try to cut the 2 x 4 it would stop because it didn't have enough power. They wouldn't believe me when I told them why. I let em alone. Live and learn.

[@mwnciboo]

@@fbsurveyor Or live and don't learn in this case.

[@thehomesteadinoregon8000]

We live on a 6000w Off Grid system, and we were told NEVER use power tools like a ban saw on our invertor, it could damage it, and so this is why we still have our original invertor.

[@2Fast4Mellow]

Look up resistive load vs inductive load (motors/transformers/chokes)! Inductive loads created a second current that is out of phase and causes power spikes when turned on or off. This is often (not always) medicated by simply placing a (large) capacitor on the inductive device..

[@showme360]

I have the 3000w 24v Reliable Inverter, connected to a bank of 10 12v 110Ah led acid batteries, base in the UK so 240v 50hz ring main system, which has been running my TV, PS4, 2 x PC, and all my power tools, lawn mower, and on a sunny day it will even charge my Nissan Leaf, (which takes just over 10amps) admittedly my tools are not as powerfull as yours, but I've had no problems for over a year now!.....I am happy as punch! :)

[@CoolMusicToMyEars]

The saw has a very high inductive start up current, maybe think of adding a soft start, It maybe a design problem within the inverter, does the 3000W inverter have a transformer output stage, the 8000W inverter looks like it is directly coupled final output stage apart from a few isolation transformer, maybe the mosfets are underrated to handle massive start up current, it would be very interesting to look at the current rating with voltage rating of the mossfets, dont forget due to two failures this will possibly strengthen the design engineers to look at the unit so it can handle inductive start up currents, some inverters have two current figures running capability together with peak current, maybe this inverter design is not suitable for workshop type areas? My background is electronics hardware test engineer in aerospace, verification qualification testing, :), Any feedback will help the manufacturer look to improve the final product, Saying that sometimes you have some motors with a shorted winding that will take out motor drives on first start up !,

[@DaBuick]

CoolMusicToMyEars need a capacitor on the saw. I’m curious if the specs on the 8000W box too. Dumping a large current draw on it may be outside the specs. Cheap power tools always take a huge current rush.

[@davidellenberger3852]

I’ve got the 3000W 36V 230V50hz version and never got any problem. The sine wave is good and I like that it doesn’t make any unnecessary noise. I would have liked a separate protective earth connector on the case instead just the wire earth connector

[@TheBillythekid2010]

There's a guy from Canada that has the same problem with the inverter. Thanks for showing, won't be buying one now!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Yep, that's "Going Off Grid" great channel.

[@JasonW.]

I also run a Reliable 3000w inverter, at 24v. It will reliably (many times tested) simultaneously start both a 1/2 & 3/4 hp sump pump motors, both under load and without load. I had considered buying a higher wattage version of the Reliable, but two identical failures have stopprd that thought cold.

[@KeithPeevyhouse]

TheBillytheJack2010 e

[@mikestrothotte467]

More like Unreliable Electric

[@ricksanchez6384]

Thats a hf sine wave you want a LF sine wave and the 8000w is the peek not the duty cycle

[@vernroach3413]

You sir have more patience than I...My calls and/or emails, on a product that's costly and doesn't work, are "stinging" as they say....I get results, but the lost time and often the return process is a pain in the butt, so I am also a pain in the butt....My thanks for making this video.

[@joteirlinck4778]

electric motors have a starting current that can sometimes be up to eight times the nominal current

[@larkincrutcher3424]

It is not usual for motor starting surge currents to be 5 to 7 times the run current. Just look at the LRA ( Locked Rotor Amp) spec on some motors to see how high motor start currents are. Inverter typically can only supply 1.5 times max spec average current.

[@SnowAndrews]

You do understand, I hope, that a 15 amp at 120 volt = 1800 watts, with a momentary start-up current requirement of probably 60 amps (7200 watts) or maybe 80 amps (9600 watts). Question: Does your power-saw NOT have a soft-start built-in ??

[@ahaveland]

The DC input current is more than double the AC output current, so a start up of 7200 watts would draw 150 amps from the batteries @ 48V.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

Even without a soft-start, this should NOT have caused the inverter to lose the MOSFETs or all those fuses. There should have been a high-current protection circuit with polyfuses that cut off immediately. I pulled the spec from the saw that he's using to check the continuous and start-up current at 110V: Continuous is as expected : 1800W Start-up is : 2200W ( 20A ) Peak is : 3200W ( ~30A ) for 50ms Most normal 20A circuit breakers will not trip in 50 milliseconds at 30A. Certainly, that should not have blown the entire inverter.

[@jimbougard8560]

BS! Those devices do not have 80 amp surges. That inverter is junk. That's the problem.

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

Probably?

[@Engineering1]

How to calculate the starting current.

[@DENMONKEY]

correct me if I'm wrong but those red blade fuses are rated at 10amp. so if your asking 15 from it that's why theyre blowing. I noted the ones that came with the 3000W are 40amp they should save anything else in the unit though. so that's a bit poor.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

You are right, the blade fuses are 10 amps each, and two in parallel for each of the 9 component groups.

[@jimdavis8804]

You would think that they would have tested that unit themselves before sending them out. My cheap harbor freight would get er done. Great vid.

[@mark_osborne]

Hilarious- absolutely . You really must wonder if Reliable ever took one of these 8000 watt inverters and simply powered it up and tested it with an electric motor as a load.... I mean SERIOUSLY ...LOL

[@streamdungeon5166]

Even if you want that company to "do well", we all stored (un)Reliable Electric in the crap folder of things to steer clear of after watching this :P Thanks! Always good to know what to shun ;D

[@davestech6357]

The inverter looks cheaply made. The first board will change the incoming 48 volts to about 150 volts dc. The second board is the inverter board that changes the dc to ac for the output. Looks like the capacitors are too small to keep the 150 volts up at a in rush and then it draws extra amperage from the first board because it cant keep up. The voltages drop across the fuses and too small wire then the fets short. If you want it to work you have to increase the capacitance and improve your voltage drop.

[@picchipacchi7190]

I don't know if they are 'Reliable' electronics, but you are!!! Keep up the good work! Bravo! Doing great adrenaline stunts is quiet common these days, but honesty is not! So, this earns mine. This sort of honesty from a KZbinr, is very much missing in our politicians and a few govt. officers and very importantly, in the people as well!

[@samjohnson9894]

"...an 8000 watt inverter...". No, it isn't. Not if it weighs less than 50 pounds. There's a reason you can spend $500 on a 1000watt inverter or $200 for a 3000watt inverter. You get what you pay for. Almost always. Good vid. Hope you can hook'em for 3 - 3000watt'ers if those are the only ones they make that work.

[@leexgx]

It's a 3000w inverter with 8000w peak (the saw drill your using is pulling more then 8000w at startup) this reliable inviter lacks a soft start feature so it just blows under sudden loads If its a 110v inverter don't use more then 3000w as the amps will kill it (240v 3000w is easier as that's only around 13amps)

[@khalidsyoung]

Sam Johnson I’d say 35- 45cents a watt on inverter is where the good products are , once you get to 10-15 cents or less your getting ducked lol

[@frankelmer8055]

Correct. My 4000W inverter weighs over 50 pounds.

[@nickmo439]

Weight isn't a problem))) bad circuit design is😉

[@PaulGreenwald]

Chinese shite put in the bin

[@goldenages7089]

The start up amperage on the mitre saw is way too high to run on inverter. I'm surprised the bandsaw didn't take it out. Why didn't you figure this out before ruining the 2nd inverter?

[@maxtorque2277]

The reason "cheap" inverters are cheap is because the companies making them scimp, on parts and on design. Big inductors and smoothing caps cost money, lots of money. High speed, high accuracy current controlled boost converters also cost money to develop, lots of money. So whilst you can make a "cheap" inverter, generally speaking, you get what you (don't) pay for..... ;-)

[@Elfnetdesigns]

You need to look into Locked Rotor Amps.. It's common term in HVAC but applies to most every electric motor.. For things like your saw and definately an A/C unit you might have to install soft start kits and such if you want to use them with an inverter.. Do you know if the 3Kw inverter will start and run an RV A/C unit? I have a 13,5000 BTU Dometic rooftop unit on my trailer, runs at about 9 amps once it's settled down, and has a soft start kit on it.. I can run it on a 2 Kw generator fine but I want to tie it into the campers solar grid.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I don't know if it can start a big ac like that without a soft start. The 3000 watt inverter can run my little AC unit (5000 btu) but it struggles to start it.

[@imcrazy886]

Since the failure can be reproduced, that's not a big issue. It would be easy to be fixed by RD engineer with oscilloscope. I think the circuit diagram/structure of the 3000W and 8000W are almost the same. Normally the 8000W can afford to suffer much more inrush current than 3000W's. So....The problem should be related to protection circuit. I guess....the root cause might be at the MOSFET driver(ex: IR2110..etc). "One" driver can't drive so many MOSFETs efficiently. (More MOSFET imply more gate capacitance. More gate capacitance imply more turn off time delay. More turn off time imply much much more power dissipation on MOSFET.)

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Hi Chang Simon, That sent my head spinning. I was thinking of ordering new mosfets and replacing the broken ones. Is this "driver" something I can upgrade too?

[@TerrencePorretto]

How would they get the components that wrong? What does it work up to in the present set up? Even the most powerful saw is under 4000 watts at start up. His thing lit up quick, as you say, the timing is off?

[@jessstuart7495]

The large induction motor on the miter-saw will look like an inductive load (low power factor) at startup. When driving an inductive load, the current lags the voltage by about 90 degrees. This means you have peak current just before the voltage goes to zero (while mosfets are switching off). I suspect the high currents through the mosfets while they are switching is what is causing the mosfets to overheat and blow-out. I would check the start-capacitor on the miter-saw's motor. It may be open, and is causing the motor to draw excessive current, and look like a very low power-factor load at startup. If it is powered from a regular wall outlet, you might not notice if the motor starts up fine. Then again, this miter-saw motor might not even have a start-capacitor.

[@mark_osborne]

@@jessstuart7495 - but the same saw starts up fine on his 3000 watt inverter... there has got to be a design flaw with the 8000 - right ?

[@bimmers50e30]

@@DavidPozEnergy kind of. there are bigger Fet drivers. you may need that driver to drive a push-pull amp, to drive the fets. there is alot of FETS in there, and like Chang said, that is a lot of gate capacitance. something also, that saw while 15 amp, has a nasty draw when the trigger is pulled. I feel like the inverter should safty itself before killing itself.

[@sideproject4028]

Seems like their lower wattage units are ok, but cant say the same about their big units. Thanks for sharing!

[@bretthorwood9396]

The same thing happened to me from smile electrics ch I pulled the inverter apart and found several large mosfets blown ans aldo sa sine wave PIC control board was blown. The root cause was bad soldering joints on HV electrolytic capacitors I changed the parts by getting them from the supplier and bingo all good. You can trim the output voltages with these inverters usually with a trimpot in the inverter. Your problem is caused by a surge current and there is something wrong like a badly solderd joint somewhere else.

[@michaelpaul3953]

First of all if you want to pull that many peak amps into the inverter those battery cables splitting the supply is one issue. I used 4/O in all applications weather a 2000 watt or 8000 watt or just makes sense better to have the most current carying capability than not enough. And here's a key factor, reliable in their connection diagram fails to instruct installer to connect separate ground wire that attaches to a screw under the bottom of the inverter that's a stranded 8awg copper connecting directly to earth ground. I used to warehouse inverters for reliable in the US and was their returns address. The amount of blown inverters shipped to me was unbelievable. I'm also a technician and after blowing a 3500 watt myself determined their installation manual had left out the very important grounding procedure. I informed the company they needed to add a slip of paper with the word WARNING unit must be grounded before connecting to mains failure to properly ground unit can have serious consequences and will void the warranty. Obviously they haven't corrected the error in their installation manual. I have used reliable inverters as back up EMERGENCY re0lacements for my 9.36kw array and every one has performed correctly as long as the unit was grounded before attaching mains.

[@thespacecowboy420]

real answer buried in the youtube shitsoup

[@oldtimeengineer26]

bummer it must be the surge of the saw. I have 5 of the units max 3000w and they are still working fine. I had to pay for all mine good luck

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Yeah, my 3000w is still doing great as well.

[@MrFrodo1111]

I found that older versions of a invert er often have transformers but their NEW units have gone to moffets and shit in the process too...Same company'

[@billymaroko3736]

Basic electronics. You need an Inverter with output transformer because in your case the load is directly connected to the MOSFETS.

[@notsure9355]

That would have blown my mind like the Godfather, had I just installed all that & watched it blow. This is why I will not scrimp on my inverter / tie-in equipment. I will buy some German, or Japanese brand.

I had similar problem with powering induction engines. I had campervan build with electric air conditionin and more powerful inverter could not start it. Amperage was too high. It did not break but every time we tried to start it, inverter protection kicked it. We replaced it with smaller one which was just on the edge of needed power and this one worked. The difference was that smaller one had longer response time for overload and was a bit more robust, so it could handle high power draw for short period of time when you start electric engine. That's also the problem here. Startup current is much higher than nominal power draw.

[@glenngoodale1709]

Thanks for another informative and interesting video.

[@listenup1711]

There are a couple ways to fix that problem but the first place to start is with the saw. Test it first. Just because the stamp on an electric motor says one thing does not mean it will test out that way.

[@jameslybarger8786]

I definitely won't be buying any of their products I have seen numerous videos with them failing not only on Startup like yours just did but also after 3 to 6 months and many saying after their second or third replacement they stopped talking to him and they won't return their emails or answer their questions do anything to help them. Just another item of proof buy quality spend more money.

[@gamingSlasher]

Should be "less" money I guess.

[@1Shignog]

Well they are using automotive fuses instead of caps or something else.

[@TheWadetube]

I can't help but wonder of the series of mosfets were wired in the wrong series. Obviously a high amperate is being shunted through them, maybe you just need beefier transistors there. Perhaps there is not a buffer capacitor in parallel with that to soften the blow?

[@DaBuick]

The inrush current of your chop saw is a lot. I’d get IGBT or SiC over mosfet too.

[@no-eb2xx]

The 3KW unit has a peak power of 6KW, so I'm guessing that the 8KW model has at least 12KW peak power... no way the chop saw is using that much.

[@christopherleubner6633]

A method of using these inverters to prevent the fets from committing suicide is to find a big boat anchor isolation transformer and use it. The magnetizing current will preload the inverter and prevent lockup overload of the fets.

[@stephencarter980]

you should be able to start and run at least two of that type of miter saw at the same time. you already proved your 3000 watt inverter ran the same saw . i would say it is an internal wiring problem in 8000 watt inverter, is it maybe set up for EU TYPE VOLTAGE from factory ? J.L.Y.

[@curtchase3730]

Wow! I don't know where to begin! Yes, I was suckered into buying one of these. I own the 3500W 24VDC rig. Had it since February '18, but hardly use it. First of all. From China? Divide by 2. Meaning, de-rate specs by 1/2. 8KW? Try 4KW @ best. I haven't blown mine up yet, but it couldn't start up a standard Dehumidifier. Just went into shut down. One commenter mentioned soft start motors. YES! Why not? Oh...Cost more. I bought a stand alone soft start module, had to make a mod, but it worked great starting up a big Skil circular saw, shop vac, things like that. The problem is that construction equipment, anything hand held with a finger operated trigger won't work with the soft start module, since you must power up the module while the saw, for example has it's finger switch closed first! Kinda tough to do. A soft start circuit gives the motor like 1/2 voltage for less than a second, just to get the thing spinning a bit, then switches in full line voltage until it is shut off. Huge different in start up current! I've measured it. A Skil saw draws like 35 amp spike when started. After inserting my soft start module, the start up spike drops to around 13 amps! You hardly know it's working except the saw doesn't have that "kick" action. Once module relay closes, saw runs normal with full cutting power. I'd pay extra for a soft start in any machine that uses a brush type motor. Unfortunately, there are some machines that need that high current rush, like air compressors and the like. Back to the UN-Reliable inverter. Yes, it is full of flaws. One biggie is that mine at least, has a floating neutral, meaning both HOT and NEUTRAL legs ARE HOT! Each leg provides 1/2 of the full 120VAC power! Try grounding the neutral and POW! Out go the lights! Cheapie design to cheat. A good inverter will have a cold neutral like house wiring. Next is poor voltage regulation. Blaa blaa. The list goes on. Enough. I sent Reliable a super long email months ago about all this garbage, and of course...Crickets.

[@dianandjames119]

Check the startup current on saw the current spike maybe burning the fuse

[@wb5mgr]

When you test a MOSFET two things are important... 1. Your meter must apply enough probe voltage to turn on the gate in the fet... in this case meters with the 9 V battery are going to be a better choice 2. Also, and I couldn’t tell in the video if you were doing this or not because of how you were standing… You must identify the gate drain and a source of the transistor by looking at the data sheet. Take the probes and place the negative lead on the source and the positive on the gate, give it time to charge 5 to 10 seconds. Now move the positive probe to the drain.... you should get a low reading on your meter. No short the source to the gate to drain the charge while the positive leader still connected to the drain… And the reading should go high. These ratings will indicate a good FET.

[@tectalabyss]

Just found your channel. Subscribed,Liked,Shared and added to Playlists. Looks like the startup surge was just to much for the inverter to handle ?. We used a type of capacitor bank at work, it was for the power factor ,but also took most of the startup surge. You should be able to replace the mosfets maybe a higher amp range would solve the problem ?. Best of luck to you and keep the videos coming.

[@richardneal1114]

ive been watching your videos im trying to set up back up solar wind battery this is my first time doing this i find your videos very helpful thanks richard neal

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Your welcome. Thanks for watching.

[@solarpowerelectricityandel2915]

If you buy a magnum get your MP panel with it so you get the 5-year warranty I'd suggest to buy Magnum I run my entire house on it and my power tools table saw window air conditioners projects 2000 watt microwaves basically everything in my house except my heat pump and stove on one inverter

[@vegandr.2809]

thumbs up for this video. 1 thousand thumbs up for that amazing Baby in the beginning of the video.

[@guywhoknows]

Okay so you're over the pond, but mathematics are the same as well as coded parts. Now you say 8000w. And 120v that's 66a. The blown fuses are ten amp. So you're putting 3 times the rated power through them and of course they blow. Also looking at the design (couldn't see much) the voltage doubler design is a little off. I'd have seen the the normal coil, but would have like to seen the diode and cap doubler. Also I couldn't see if the windings were stepped, it was labelled as doubler coils, but we're they the same rate? As we know double the volts halve the amp. So how did source provide its initial current? I'd use math of total in a -20% / coils = output current. Also no load draw on the item's has a low power than the load, the saw has a initial start, due to the brake of the motor. (Ir). Back to the drawing board with that one.

[@briantmartin83]

So dont buy the 8000w inverter..

[@666hobart]

Cool beans! however one thing I don't like is someone who uses the term ampacity but doesn't know that metal piece inside is called a BUSS BAR.... Just wow!

[@johnnashmy8640]

Why would anyone use a Pure Sine Wave Inverter to run a Chop Saw,etc.?

[@melgibson6331]

John Nashmy ....maybe he is one of those people that thinks into the future and maybe he'll plug into the electric tubing one of those big tv boxes and i hurd those are picky on a thing called a sinewave.

[@energiewender143]

Because you can. Why would a customer have to think about the kind of load he is using in connection with the inverter when the manufacturer claims that the inverter is up to the job reliably?

[@squirellbeater01]

Running an isolated transformer might reduce the surge on the inverter. Definately shorting the inverter though. It might be easiest to just spec out the MOSFET's and replace with bigger ones.

[@Hammerjockeyrepair]

theres no way that inverter could produce 8000 watts to begin with. Its got a single 110v output that is trying to push almost 80 amps through it?!?!

[@jaimecanizalesarmas6291]

is that the load the saw pulls at start up ? ... I would not be supersized!!

[@rickb06]

I'm an EE with twenty years of experience and your setup looks coherent and I see *zero* no no's. My best guess is that you had the misfortune of dealing with a sales and/or marketing team or person and they literally took a unit from _somewhere,_ twice, and didn't bother checking out your issue.. From eye balling your unit up close and then finding the engineering schematics from UL, the mosfet(s) used are wholly inadequate for the marketed purpose, so much so that I'd consider this unit a ticking timebomb of the *FIRE* variety. I'd discontinue any relationship with that company and eat the loss, I would also try to get in contact with their QA/QC department (if they have one), and let them know their mosfet configuration is unsafe and the oscillator they sourced is wholly inadequate, I suspect it is shorting (probably arcing too) on contact when engaged due to a lack of shielding and overall cheap components.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Thanks for taking a closer look at the electronics. The company (Reliable Electric) no longer sells this version. Maybe too many issues like mine? LOL Anyways, they did send me a new version as a replacement and it looks like a re-design. Would you mind taking a look at the new design and letting me know if you also think it's a fire hazard? I'd like to be able to use the new version, but not if it's a high risk. I have a video where I show the new version in detail: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHmTe6d7eq6XgdU

[@skipp1970]

Mosfets usually fail as a dead short that is what blows fuses....

[@mark_osborne]

yes, that's what I was thinking. Something inside the inverter is shorting as it blew all the fuses. It isn't his chop box as it runs fine on the 3000 watt inverter.

[@leexgx]

If it blows the fuse its a dead inverter as the Mosfets fry before the fuses blow and the fuses blow because of the shorted out Mosfets (replacing them will just blow again)

[@jordanwaughtal7649]

Wasn't he measuring the reverse protection diode? Can this diode go bad with out the gate shorting to the channel?

[@eddieyu80]

There is issue of in-rush current when start up the saw. Too much current drawn cause the burn of the MOSFET. The inverter shoud provide soft start function to avoid the over current. When first MOSFET is burned, The load is shared to the rest 8 MOSFETs. And cause sequential failure.

[@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958]

I had a 4KW version of this inverter and it made popping noises and started spewing smoke when I tried to start my 12,000BTU air conditioner with it. Since I am not making promotional videos for them, it went in the trash and I got a completely different 6 KW inverter which starts the AC easily even though the new one is modified sinewave instead of pure sine.

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

You just tossed it? Why not have it replaced and sell the replacement?

[@icwiz]

yeah i was wondering that too.

[@Tankaroonies]

Mosfets: Left to right=Gate-Drain-Source. Diode check setting, place red probe on source and black probe on drain, should get diode beep and not a short, if mosfet has blown then it will give a short (this is for N channel mosfet, not IGBTs)

[@offgridwanabe]

Oh working as the Reliable fail option technician has it's advantages but what if we needed the inverter to work.

[@TheJohnny1x]

I have a 4000 watt Reliable, wired into its own system in my house. 2 chest freezers, on large fridge, propane 100,000 but furnace and misc small electronics. 2500 amp HR batterybank. Have used it a few times and it has worked flawlessly. I've watch a lot of vids on these things and have seen quite a few of the bigger inverters fail. 6, 7, 8 thousand watters. So wether there is a design flaw in the bigger ones or if his small battery cables were insufficient. I use 0000 copper thru out my set up for supply. That may be an issue struggling to pull that power through those small gauge wires. Whatever hope he works it out.

[@southernohiosolarhomestead8477]

It seems like above 3000 watt inverters they make a few do that , I have a 4000 watt inverter of theirs it was showing overvoltage at 25 to 26 volts and made everything with lights blink and things run warm so I emailed them after about a week they sent me a warranty replacement the warranty replacement done the same thing as your 8000 watt inverter done , I learned a good lesson for $400 plus wasted , they have great customer service that’s all I can say about their inverters . Mine are making great space fillers lol

[@merlozzo]

"being halfway around the globe, and still getting back at me, with all my emails.." I thought this is what happens with Email instead of snail mail... stupid me! :D

[@djbrettell]

With a large inductive load, you should use an inverter with a nice big toroidal transformer in it. I've a 3KW inverter with a big heavy toroidal transformer in it and it eats inductive loads for breakfast. That inverter of yours will be fine for lights and non-inductive loads although the heatsinks look a bit cheap. I agree with you able the cables and connectors.

[@JP_94]

U need a capacitor a big one dc capacitor that holds enough power for that instant draw

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Thanks. The company stopped making this model. They have a new model out that works better: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHmTe6d7eq6XgdU

[@TheZafootz]

How do you have the outlet you are using connected to the inverter? From what I see it looks like you connected the hot line and com but how is the middle wire ground connected? Usually power tools don't have a ground connection and connecting a inverters ground could cause a surge of power through the chassis of the inverter. I have a 2500 watt inverter same kind as yours and mines got its ground connected to the chassis. You may want to use 2 different ground connections one connecting the inverter chassis to its own ground and use a 2nd ground when powering up heavy loads so any surge will ground out instead of surging through the chassis that may cause burn outs.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

In this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXbNe4umiryZr5I I show the wiring in more detail. The video shows the 3000w, but it's the same.

[@TheViewFromUpHere]

Its efficiency is 85-90%, that's a lot of wasted energy and battery capacity. Good modern inverters are 97% efficient, like my SolarEdge PV inverters.

[@gdorfxoxo9657]

Canadian Solar inverters are nice too but expensive. The inverter he is using looks cheap fosho

[@proppo4924]

@@gdorfxoxo9657 Canadian Solar is just another Chinese company. There are numerous very well-made western inverters. Support your local manufacturers.

[@showme360]

From what I can tell from SolarEdge they only make PV Inverters, so no good for this application!

[@dentonfender6492]

Use a Scariac in between the power inverter, and the saw so to reduce the sudden extreme amperage draw. The sudden amperage draw is over powering the inverter circuitry, maybe something to do with the rapid speed of the MOSFET's possibly. I'm not an engineer---just electronics amateur hobbyist. I'm only speculating without total knowledge.

[@FixNewsPlease]

There's a company where I live and I send them a couple hun every now and then and they put wires on my house with electricity already in them.

[@leexgx]

It's 8000w peak not constant don't pull more then 3200-4000w on it or you blow it (especially on the 110v version) the reliable inverters lack a soft start load feature so they will try to deliver the max power all at once instead of soft ramping up the load witch leads to there destruction when the Mosfets go short circuit (to many amps not enough Mosfets to spread the load) Another issue as well is overload/over currant(amps) protection is missing on models I believe above 4000 Watts on reliable inverters so they will self destruct instead of cutting output on overload

[@listenup1711]

I'm glad to see you wrote this up as this is the only one that makes any sense

[@frankz1125]

Nice vid but garbage units. Get something low freq. Much stronger

[@gamingSlasher]

Yes, this seems to be a common problem with HF inverters. They are just very delicate. LF inverter have a much better reputation. I have been using a PowerJack for several years and have now switched to a Victron. Both are LF inverters and run many different electric power tools. Have never been a problem.

[@drewanywar15977]

Try getting your circular saw PAT Tested for electrical safety. There maybe an issue regarding a motor fault or a live to earth fault on it hence why the inverters keep blowing.

[@dondesnoo1771]

Have 1800 inverter will run skill saw but not oil burner or well pump just shuts off no damages ..😎 harbor freight unit .

[@rayking3483]

There is a big difference between average power and peak power or average current and peak current for semiconductor inverters. The thermal time constant for a semiconductor is in microseconds and the thermal time constant for a high speed electric motor with a high inertial load is in the high milliseconds. The 8000 watts refers to a resistive load with no added peak current that is generated from high inertial loads.

[@badaboomrock]

this is crazy I have a 500 w inverter and can run a skill saw off of my car battery

[@bflmpsvz870]

David have you ever heard of inductivity? This is the phenomena that happens inside the motor of your saw and ittemporarily spikes the amps far over 10 times of its normal current, immediately after turned on... You need to size your inverter accordingly or use a special circuit in your saw that prevents these spikes.

[@TimeSurfer206]

IT'S AN *EIGHT THOUSAND WATT* INVERTER!

[@1whoFartsinthewind]

The joys of Chineseium

[@fidelcatsro6948]

whats that? a new element from the periodic table?

[@jmacd8817]

@@fidelcatsro6948 No, it's the precursor to released shmoo, which is often accompanied by magic smoke. (go watch some AvE videos, he's great youtuber)

[@FrustratedBaboon]

I think there should be a huge cap somewhere in there or externally mounted? The Cap should take the huge draining not those tiny one's on board.

[@combat-wing-nut]

I am no expert but you need capacitors to take the surge. This is a standard for electronics

[@zaphhood4745]

Maybe the inductive in surge is blowing the thing up. Maybe the 3kw inverter was over engineered, had decent caps. Maybe better surge protection and in surge protection. I'm guessing the phi on the miter saw is terrible.

[@stevejones8665]

So Have the Company changed there name to Totally UN Reliable Inverters.😂😂

[@coolrobbins69]

Mosfits work very hard it is the most common break on them but easy fix if you make a certain test for them

[@FullSendPrecision]

Save your pennies and get ya a good Magnum inverter.

[@solarpowerelectricityandel2915]

Check out my Magnum inverter on my KZbin channel it has been stomping ass for a very long time it runs my entire house 24 hours a day the only thing it doesn't run is my heat pump and I mean literally I have every 110 volt circuit running on my Magnum 48 volt inverter

[@supremepartydude]

Aaron Anderson what makes a Magnum inverter better than his inverter?

[@garyenwards1608]

That's Right Sir! Get Your Self a MagNum Sir!

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 : Sure...let us all make a major purchase on your say so alone. Any chance you are a retailer for Magnum?

[@solarpowerelectricityandel2915]

Aaron Anderson the magnum never dies

[@omgnothingisavl]

"just my preference" ...yeah and it's code's preference too. You can't run wires in parallel to increase amperage in most cases because a failure of one cable will put unsafe amps down the remaining cable(s) which can result in a fire. That said, I didn't check the guage of cable vs length of cable to see what you need for that inverter, hopefully they did and the extra cable is intended as a spare or to run to a shunt, etc.