Make a $100 Amazon Diesel Heater Even Better With This Simple Trick

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

What should we review next? VEVOR 5KW geni.us/WdBvLqh Newer model that doesn't tick geni.us/Tavz

[@raudpats0]

The difference is mostly in fuelpump. 22ml for 5kw and 25/28 ml for 8/10kw units. There is some s all difference in airpump revolutions. Quiet fuelpump i to not gnow yet, havent installed so far. There is shockload absorbers for fuel to Quiet the pumps down and rubber insulationsn for pump. Vevor has used oil burners.

[@bain19]

Honestly, ive bought the plasma and welders from your amazon reviews. I guess im buying this now too. How about you stop, my wallet is begging you :D

[@ВасилийВасильев-э9н]

8 kW can be larger and heavier then 5 kW. If it's same size and weight it's fake.

[@FFLFFS]

Amazon lineboring machines review👍 (Also would be interesting to see the temperature of the D heater exhaust coming out of the C can )

[@raudpats0]

@@ВасилийВасильев-э9н 10 kw is bigger. Smaller ones use same burningchamber, info aquired from vevor homepage. Needs some digging to get the data .

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I have a list of corrections that I think are important to share. I have accumulated hundreds, if not thousands of hours of testing on these heaters, and have over 30 videos showing how bad of an idea trying to burn waste oil is. The 5 and 8kw are almost always the same. Some cycle the pump a little faster and run rich in the highest setting. They don’t like being charged? Meant to be used when not moving? Please explain as this doesn't make sense. Charging while running is fine. Using these heaters while in motion is fine, as long as your set up correctly. The glow plug is for starting only. Fuel doesn’t hit it, it enters an area near it and flashes off on a mesh. This are is for flame initiation and the actual combustion happens in the chamber at a separate "wick" mesh material. (at the end of the fuel inlet) I don’t understand that the confusion is about heat energy. Things that lose heat slowly, can’t heat space quickly… you have x amount of heat and it’s either in the radiator, or in your air space. If you have a material like cast iron, that holds heat for a long time… this is NOT good … unless your goal is to have a hot radiator. I prefer a warm room. An aluminum radiator (or copper) makes way more sense. I grew up with a wood stove and furnace so I realize cast iron was used a lot... not because it heats a space after your fire goes out. The glow plug only needs to be finger tight. It doesn’t hold anything in, other than itself, and it can’t come out. The glow plug “screen” is basically a wick, not a filter. It doesn’t affect running operation at all, only start up. If it gets carbon, it I’ll effect start up only. Fuel is not filtered through this. This is not a diesel engine… it is a glorified candle, that has fuel delivered to the wick on demand. Viscosity of the fuel has almost no effect on these heaters as they use a dosing pump. Other than extreme conditions, one pulse of the pump will deliver .022ml of fluid. If the fuel is so thick the punk can’t cycle, the heater will shut off. The byproducts of blow by are combustible. Oil is made of carbon, so is diesel, and gasoline. The reason used oil doesn’t burn well isn’t because it is used, it’s because it’s oil and isn’t as refined as diesel or kerosene. It’s not the additives… diesel is refined oil. Burning oil leaves behind a what you would have refined out of diesel (for example). Mixing fuels does NOT cause the less volatile fuel to burn. Fuel doesn’t burn. The gasses that flash off burn. If you mix gasoline and diesel, in a heater, the gas will flash off instantly and you will be left with oil… just like in a distilling process. If they are injected in a mist, like in a diesel engine, then perhaps the heat of the gas burning will cause the oil to burn, but these heaters drool fuel onto a wick, they don't inject it. I have hundreds / thousands of hours on a pump that has run pure gas, alcohol, waste oil and even some diesel…. These pumps don’t wear out / fail due to lubrication. They make these units that burn gasoline and use the same pump. Pumps that fail, likely do so because of defects or moisture, causing corrosion. It's not the glow that plug screen that gets clogged with waste oil. It’s the burn chamber mesh. It’s not replaceable on most chambers, and is almost impossible to clean. Used or new veg oil can be used, but more important than filtering, is mixing at least 50/50 with diesel or kerosene. 60 diesel 40 veg oil to be “safe”. The issue is glycerin in the oil. If you remove the glycerin, you have biodiesel. I have personally done it at 60/40 and have an acquaintance who has been burning 50/50 (with a system with two pumps that mixes it) for a few months now, with no issues. The last few weeks running 24/7. 200% more efficient 🤔😤 … if you lost half of your heat out of the exhaust (you’re not) and recovered 100% of your loss… that would be 100% more efficient… no ? Such nonsense. The most you stand to gain by collecting ALL of the exhaust heat is about 1kw. The actual output of these haters is around 4.5 or 5kw (though they claim 8) It's a great idea to scavenge that heat... but I'm not sure wher the 200% number comes from. They are great heaters. They all have ticking pumps. You can easily quiet them or buy quite replacements. Detach the pump from the metal casing, as it amplifies the noise. Hang the pump form an elastic or zip tie... if the heater is stationary, this will work fine. Do NOT run them waste oil or waste oil mix in these …I have tried 80% diesel and gas with only 20% oil, and they still clog up. I have a 30 part video series on how bad of an idea this is. Hearing the oil, mixing it with diesel or gas does not help… heavy oil has ash. That ash will clog the burn chamber.

[@billparker8954]

You can take everything @loweredexpectations4927 says to the bank. Glad to see you're back after a long summer!

[@ferratilis]

Thanks for the info.

[@thieltech1]

You definitely have a good understanding of fuel and burning mixtures. Thank you ! The dude in this video only pretends or thinks he understands how they work. I'm glad to see you cleared up the miss information. Nothing more annoying then people explaining things they don't understand.

[@tomasviane3844]

Nice to see you here 👋😊

[@M.TTT.]

thank you for the info, I'll have to read it all later, but can you run used motor oil cut with kerosene/diesel?

[@mantvydas8810]

My dad was a trucker for 43 years. He has lots of stories of these heaters, and always mentioned that the casings were plastics. And they weren't aftermarket installs, factory options in volvos, Mercedes, man, daf. Mentioned that some were more problematic than others. One time he was stuck in -25 celcius weather and the heater stopped running, would just cycle and puff smoke but not actually start. He ended up taking it apart and 2 of the meshes inside were so clogged nothing would clean them. He noticed there were multiple layers and ended up taking 2 or 3 out till clean ones showed up. When he tried to start it, it didn't and when he was about it to give up it finally started. Said it was putting out such hot air that he couldn't hold a hand near it and the plastic housing started melting and deforming. He ended up being the only one wearing a t shirt in his truck, everyone was surprised his vbasto put out such heat. The heater lasted another 3 years before my father's coworker crashed the truck and it was written off.

[@lavasiouxwindwater9789]

Badass!

[@techwolflupindo]

Thankfully, Espar current models have built in altitude compenstors that elemenated 90% of all the bad starts out there. Bad part is they only been out a couple years. So many trucks on the road still have the non-altitude version and all of them have issues starting in Denver, CO or anywhere above 1000 feet sea level.

[@GabrielKozsar]

@@techwolflupindo Wonder if blowing harder into the intake hose would help it to start in emergency. :D

[@mantvydas8810]

@@techwolflupindo Unfortunately wouldn't have helped cause the meshes were logged with a lot of soot build up.

[@desertblbuesman]

Is intake air coming from outside?

[@sw5334]

Had one for years now. I converted it to run off Milwaukee 18v batteries and I use it as a job site heater when I’m working. Works awesome.

[@dusty1498]

What size of batteries and what is your run time? Mind sharing how you converted it!

[@FFLFFS]

@dusty1498 I imagine a small potentiometer would regulate 18v to 12 V Basicly why Vevor says not to put a battery charger on b/c that would be 14.5 volts. Edit: a regulator is a better choice. (Potentiometer make more waste heat )

[@dusty1498]

@@FFLFFS Thanks I know guys use 18v drill batteries on 12v kids electric jeeps etc maybe some of those videos will translate over to use with a heater👍

[@sw5334]

@@dusty1498 I run mostly 12.0 amp batteries. At full throttle they last 3-4 hours, turned down I can get 8 hours. Depends how hot and size of room your trying to maintain. I build glass solariums so I use it while working and it does a great job. Making the conversion is a bit harder than just bolting a battery on. I’ve had a lot of people ask how I did it and I would love to do a video on it but I’ve never made a video for KZbin. I think it would be a great second video for Rich to do about the heaters. If he sees this and contacts me I could explain and show photos on what to do.

[@sw5334]

@@dusty1498 A not so quick explanation, I use a 24->12v regulator to cut the voltage down. That’s the easy part. If you’re not familiar how these diesel heaters work here’s a quick explain. When turned on, they do a self check, then heat the glo plug, then inject fuel, it burns, glo plug turns off and the unit keeps running by the little filter looking element igniting the fuel on its own. Very low current draw when it’s running as it’s only turning a fan. When you turn it off, the fuel stops, fan lowers speed, glo plug turns back on and burns off any residual fuel, then it cools off, then it shuts down. This is important to know for the batteries to work. Cause the batteries don’t turn themselves off, if you don’t shut down at the correct time you can damage your batteries by drawing them too low, or not having enough energy in the battery left to do a proper shutdown sequence. Thus sludging up the heater. So what I do is install an electronic unit that watches the battery voltage, when it gets down to a preset voltage it turns the fuel pump off, heater sees a fault code, then the heater goes through the shutdown sequence and protects the battery and heater. It’s easier to set up than this sounds.

[@outintheboondocks1466]

I've had one for a couple of years now. My house is completely off grid, micro hydro powered and about 1800 sq ft, and it keeps it warm in the spring and fall, but not warm enough when the temps outside are below freezing. (yeah, shouldn't have cheaped out on insulation) I have a 7 gallon external fuel tank, so on the lowest setting I can keep the house frost free for a week. I routed my exhaust into my wood stove and the natural updraft helps pull the air through the unit, at least I think it does...lol As for the recommendation of not using a battery charger, I use a maintainer, some call it a Porsche charger, and it keeps my battery up to snuff. As for the clicking noise, you get used to it! Never have run anything but dyed diesel and after probably 1000 hours of use, it's been trouble free. Great little unit and well worth the cost. Thanks for the review, and let's hear more about the Edison conversion!

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

Greetings: Current draw? What size battery and how long does it run?

[@outintheboondocks1466]

@@Dark_Knight_USA The battery is from my excavator, 1000 CCA. Not a deep cycle but it works. As for how long it runs? Once the voltage goes below 10.5 the heater cuts out due to low voltage. So, it depends on the temp setting. If it's set at 1, the lowest setting, it lasts for a few days but if it's set to 6, the highest setting, it's good for a day and a half ish.

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

@outintheboondocks1466 Group 31? Probably about a 5 - 7A draw. Thx. I was thinking of that idea Bcuz I am in the woods. I have solar but not enough 2 recharge that much current, run the heater and the few little things. My battery draws a few amps fully charged. Without saying it is not very good. Even with solar I have 2 charge it once a week or 2. More than a 5A draw will kill it in a few hours. 4 now I use fire. Not the safest thing in my makeshift shelter but it suffices . Thx. Bsafe.

[@ramman871]

I used to sell Building products. I used to tell customers to NEVER skimp on insulation! Probably the only thing in a home that will virtually pay for itself over time!

[@RichardHarlos]

@outintheboondocks1466 Since you're off-grid, and not quite getting what you want during sub-freezing winter temps, check out paul wheaton's youtube channel for videos on rocket mass heaters. It's a relatively simple to construct, and efficient/inexpensive option that might serve you well. He's got a sub-3-minutes introduction to them called "What is a rocket mass heater?". A good one to watch after that is titled "a day in the life of a rocket mass heater" and it's also less then 3-minutes long. Sounds like you're living the dream -- best of luck to you!

[@clevelandmatheson983]

I own a few Vevor products and so far I have been very happy with my purchases.

[@Prosecute-fauci]

Me too. I have 5 or so of their items. From a large ultrasonic cleaner to a 10 in meat slicer. It all works great and the build quality is well beyond the price point.

[@tommy2facetv]

I've bought 2 ice machines. 1 is a 130lbs per day model, and the other is a 140lb per day. The 130lb has been running for over 2 yrs straight. Still works great. Each was under $400

[@markroe8229]

I've bought a lot and am satisfied with most, instructions be damned! But don't waste your money on the lawn sweeper...itsa colossal POS that sucks to assemble then falls apart as you use it since most of it is held together with pins instead of fasteners. And when you try and dump it, it dumps all the contents directly on top of the sweeper brush, so that when you pull forward, you drag most of it with you.

[@Vasilyevich05]

I bought a $500 vevor fridge/freezer. In 6 months, started throwing codes and randomly shutting off. Customer service says turn it off for one hour, then back on. What a joke. My brother in law bought one as well. Same story.

[@mediocreman2]

Yeah, they're in the top 15 of cheap Chinese garbage.

[@JoelTremblayCA]

Installed a 5KW unit in my off grid overland camper build, has been going strong over 4-years! best method in my opinion for some cheap "off grid" heat! I also use one for ice fishing.

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

Greetings: Current draw? What size battery and how long run?

[@MothKeeper]

You freeze fish with a heater?

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

@MothKeeper Surely U jest.

[@JoelTremblayCA]

@@MothKeeper ice fishing is the ultimate winter Canadian pass-time. Unfortunately we our season of being outside enjoying the warm sun with a beer in one hand, a fishing pole in the other only last about 5 months. We spent the rest doing that but in sub zero freezing temperatures, so yes we need to use a heater to keep our fish from freezing.

[@Yugemos]

I've just started winter in my setup with propane heat. So far it's okay.

[@SuperSecretSquirell]

Those are 100% Eberspaecher knockoffs. The good thing is when something goes wrong, any big rig dealership should be able to get you spare parts. I've rebuilt countless numbers of those things. The first thing to usually go is the gasket around the burn chamber. It cracks and starts pulling in air and causes it to not light off or stay running. Keep a spare glow pin and burn chamber gaskets and you should be able to get it up and running quickly.

[@benjurqunov]

I used to sell Espar. These knockoffs are not the quality of Espar, but at 1/10 the pricetag... Well worth it. I have a few of these China things. In my shed and both campers. Also made a portable complete kit with flex duct, battery cable, etc. I'll leave it sit outside. The air is ducted into a wall tent or whatever.

[@markeh1971]

Hi, I’ve noticed eBay has them as a kit. Think I’ll be getting one. Take care M.

[@Sugarkryptonite]

At the price, I just buy 2 and have the second for parts, instead of going to a big rig dealership and having to order parts and pay their silly prices. Have had 1 installed in my van for years now with no issues. As long as installed properly they do well.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

The tiny burner screen tends to carbon up over time, along with the small intake port there.

[@SuperSecretSquirell]

@wallacegrommet9343 Yup. I forgot about that thing.

[@michaellarose6192]

Been a mechanic, all my life, just subscribed to you. Just in case you know something that I don't. You're doing a great job.

[@jhuck8166]

Last winter I tried diesel/oil mixes of various ratios and no matter the mix, the burn chamber would carbon up and I had to chip the stuff out of the burn chamber. The oil was filtered and I started and stopped on straight diesel. After the third time, I decided to stick with off-road diesel. For my exhaust, I mounted a 10’ section of 2” conduit 6” off the wall and used a 90 to exit the building. I used a box fan to blow on the pipe. Works great.

[@kevinhoversland]

Did you use multiple filters or centerfuge it? I've heard good things for the last one.

[@SLeslie]

These Chinese heaters are not tuned properly from factory. Probably that's why it's carboning up.

[@robertelmo7736]

@@SLeslie No, its carboning up because he's running used oil in it, right? Reading comprehension is a lost art lol.

[@VMac822]

I ran clean, filtered WMO on mine as well and had the same thing, carboned up badly. Even starting it on pure diesel until it was hot before switching over.

[@SLeslie]

@robertelmo7736 The development of carbon deposits means incomplete combustion. And that happens with staight diesel too if there is not enough oxygen for complete combustion.

[@blacksmokin]

I've been running these heaters for years. Just stick to fresh, clean, diesel fuel. I've played around with alternative fuel mixes, and the supply pumps hate it and fail prematurely. If you do decide to get cute with them, make sure you buy replacement pumps. You also want to run these heaters up to 100% every once in a while to clean out the excessive carbon build-up.

[@Sean-f2f9p]

@@blacksmokin I agree with cranking the heat up to max daily to burn off excess soot build up👍

[@shuttlepilot_]

Best upgrade for reliability I’ve made with mine was replace the blower bearings with SKF bearings. I’m only here for the music.

[@MrSenorhappy]

Specs on those bearings please?

[@NightshiftCustom]

Good upgrade for sure! I get about 6000+hrs on a set of the stock bearings and i never have had to clean any of my heaters as there always clean when I check them (burning diesel)

[@thedavesofourlives1]

what size replacement bearing is it?

[@shuttlepilot_]

On my heater bearing size is 625- 2Z id 5mm, od 16mm, width 5mm. It’s a common size in RC cars wheel bearings but most of those are the same Chinesium. NOTE - the fans and motor rotor are a balanced assembly. Just mark everything with a pen so you can reassemble close to the same orientation.

[@Rustyhinged]

@@shuttlepilot_Thank you!

[@recumbentkoala]

Way back in 1977, when I was doing a second year university unit called "Computer Architecture" we learned about computer manufacturers building one computer design, but selling it as two different models. By inserting a D type flip flop in the clock circuit they could sell a half power, lower priced version, and the higher power, more expensive version. That way, they could get maximum economies of scale on the manufacturing line, and also sell expensive upgrades. For the upgrade an expensive technician would, with everyone else banned from the room, remove the D type flip flop. Similarly, there was supposedly an IBM line printer sold as two variants. The (secret) upgrade process was to remove a cover plate and swap two sprockets.

[@oby-1607]

Have a remote fuel tank outside witha line feeding inside. Using a portable marine fuel tank, your capacity goes way up and you can fill it while it is still running. And keep it outside so if you spill it you aren't smelling diesel the whole winter.

[@Cj032188]

haha this is what I do.. I have a small diesel fuel pump with a line drilled into the cap of the tank. I run the line right into my gas container to fill.

[@DB-yj3qc]

That is how I intend to install the one in my travel trailer, and most likely in my cabin eventually. Definitely only going to diesel fuel or at worst kerosene, off-road diesel is ready and available living in farming community.

[@MHLivestreams]

The pump is a pulse type, so use the original hard type of fuel pipe to avoid losses. Just a note in case anyone may develop issues.

[@markparr7224]

I made mine out of an old propane tank and painted it yellow. I only need one propane tank for my cargo trailer conversion, so it clamps down right next to it. All I really had to do was weld on a filler neck off a junk car, and put a fuel level sight tube and a pick up at the bottom.

[@Cj032188]

@@markparr7224 good idea!

[@reluctantfarmer]

@5:08 you can spot the difference between units. That casting piece that holds the turbine is thicker on the 8kw unit. If you look just below the blue computer unit, that casted flange above the heat exchanger is noticeably thicker. Wish he wasn't lazy and took apart the 5kw to compare because now I'm curious.

[@joshuaanothereraseddad]

Came looking for this comment after stopping the vid only 5:36 into it. Like seriously, how could you not see the differences guy?

[@poppynokc1977]

Good catch you'all. I was also hopi g he took the other apart. Great vid nonetheless. Stay warm you'all!

[@jamminwrenches860]

I have the same heater without the case and it heats my whole house. I got it after losing power for a week during a winter storm. I use a deep cycle battery and the included fuel tank. One tank lasts me two days. Best 100 buck backup heat ever. Way better than my Mr Heater Buddy, less fuel used and it's much cheaper.

[@keithwittman4741]

It's also safer than no vent lil buddy heater.

[@felicitous48]

How did you vent the exhaust?

[@jamminwrenches860]

@felicitous48 the heater is placed next to a window unit air conditioner with the exhaust tube routed through the opening next to the air conditioner. I use foil tape to seal out bugs and outside air. The foil tape easily handles the hot exhaust tube passing through it. Make sure everything that touches the tube is metal because it gets hot and melted the plastic part that came with the air conditioner. Once melted away I was able to keep plastic clear from the hot tube.

[@KA9DSL]

I have one of these in my full size Van. It was funny, last winter here in Chicago my Van was the only car one on the block with no snow on it. Love these heaters.

[@markeh1971]

Hi, they do what the label says, but they are being killed off by emission standards. Strange how when it’s a cold country they worry more about not freezing to death. Take care and keep warm M.

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

Greetings: Current draw? What size battery and runtime?

[@Sah-o5m]

I enjoy all Deboss content, and DUDE you tease us with the Edison Dodge electric frame in the background. Its right there , so close and yet so far away!

[@Don008Ramon]

I’ve had a trickle charger on my car battery that’s hooked up to diesel heater for 2.5 years now. Works without any issues

[@christopherhines2718]

yeah,but eventualy your battery will die,and so i guess you have a fairly low amps charger to it like maybe 5a as a larger charger would kill a car battery quickly start up and shut down requires around 10 ampere so if your battery slowly dies and you dont know it you will be left not enough amps the heater if you are lucky will go error or it will self destruct they cannot be starved of power in start shutdown cycles. you can make a power supply easily and cheaply from an old pc power supply.

[@cabinfevrr]

I don't know what he means by they don't like charging. I'm off-grid. I have 600ah of 12.8v Lifepo4 batteries. When the sun is charging my bank is at 14.6v and receiving 80amps from the charge controller. My heater does not mind running during the day or the night, when there's no charging.

[@DelCorbin]

@@christopherhines2718 A 3 ampere trickle charger would supply about 36 watts per hour to the battery and over a 24 hour period totals to 864 watts to the battery(amps x volts = watts). to the battery daily. That would run the 10 ampere startup mode(10 amp x 12 volt) for 7.2 hours per day(864/120. If we say that run time amperes is 3 ampere then the 864 watts produced by the trickle charger per day would run the heater for 24 hours(a day). The start up load last only 15 or so seconds at the 10 ampere level then the glow plug turns off. I don't know the exact amperes during run time when the glow plug is off, which I'm curious to learn. At any rate the 10 ampere glow plug circuit only runs for a small percentage of a 24 hour period(let's use 1hour = 120 watts). 864 watts produced per day minus 120 watts startup power = 744 watts left over. 744 watts runs the heater drawing 36 watts for 20.67 hours. My conclusion is a 3 amp charger should work fine if the numbers I've used are close to reality. Batteries and chargers run closer to 13.2 volts, so there there is that.

[@SpazziJackazzi]

​@cabinfevrr It's just coz it says in the instructions not to but doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe shortens the life of the electronics

[@julianfranck6425]

If you use a AC/DC converter. When you have a power cut your heater will be damaged. Using a battery which acts as a store permanently connected to a smart charger (which does not damage the battery) gives you protection from supply failure.

[@AncientMechanic64]

I have played with these for a few years. My advice...Burn only clean fuel, they will fail fast on used oil no matter how clean you think it is. You can run them for many, many hours on clean diesel. Run them hot before shutdown to keep them burnt clean. I made a heat exchanger from a princess auto surplus tractor muffler. I run a three foot coil of the generic chinese diesel exhaust in three coils down hill into that, with the exhaust going down. I blow an 8 inch fan up over it. Drops exhaust to almost room temperature, and recover a surprising amount of heat. I run it all on an old car battery with an old power supply supply charging it. Fuse it at 20 amps at 12 volts. They only pull 2-3 amps once they finish with the glowplug so a battery can keep my garage warm all day in a power outage

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Burn a gallon of clear kerosene once a year to clean out any carbon on the burner screen. That extends the maintenance interval on screen replacement.

[@trevortrevortsr2]

A Russian blogger reckons some 11/4 kw can be salvaged from the exhaust - he passed it through an old cast radiator

[@deadcarz4926]

@@trevortrevortsr2 Like he did in the video?

[@deadcarz4926]

How much fuel do they use?

[@AncientMechanic64]

@@deadcarz4926 they vary a bit and are adjustable. Generally from about 1/4 litre per hour on a low setting to about 3/4 per hour litre on full blast

[@BrettHoustonTube]

Well that was by far the most useful clip about Diesel Heaters on the KZbin! Thanks for the breakdown!

[@Halifaxbomber2]

I just finished installing mine in the garage.(I bought it 2 yrs ago!) Getting some furnace oil for the first run today. I've seen the radiator used before as well as a large sand filled tank. Something like that might be in my future! Thanks for the video!

[@tangocharlie9291]

Man, I’m fairly handy with a slab of wood, but a nervous Nellie with anything mechanical. In my mind EVERYTHING is designed with X tolerances, never to be taken apart lest it never be reassembled correctly! Watching guys such as yourself just take sht apart, exploring options for fuels (pumps, hoses, connecting-rods, etc…) and slapping it back together again is mesmerizing. Love it. Subbed!

[@davidwillis5016]

You could do the same brother, just have more confidence in yourself, exercise patience, take pictures of things before you take them apart that way you can refer to them during reassembly, you can do anything anybody else can, May the force be with you!

[@fm9572]

"Road Tax" for clear diesel is around $1 (American) here in North Carolina, USA. I live in a fairly rural area, with more than one source for Dyed Diesel. I've been considering one of these heaters for my Travel Trailer for some time now. All of the gas appliances and plumbing were removed before I purchased it, and I use a small electric space heater that's good to around 20*F, but kinda struggles in that range and below. Good information.

[@patrickbodine1300]

I live in a 26ft travel trailer and have used one of these heaters for at least 5 years without issue. I only burn off-road diesel. You MUST replace that green fuel hose before use because it will fail. Excellent heater for the money. Absolutely no regrets.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Did you source the Espar hard nylon tubing and rubber hose junction pieces to do the butted fuel line connections? Duplicate the Espar installation practices as much as possible for optimal performance

[@Bululdaya]

I have used these heaters for years. In 6 years of running it all winter on the boat, it was replaced only once. Fantastic little heaters for the price.

[@AshGTE]

I use a mixture of 50/50 heating oil (kerosene) and used oil (filtered) in a converted yellow burner from a house. I run double truck oil filters to keep the nozzle from blocking up. I bought a selection of nozzles, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 1.25, 1.50, 1.75 and 2.0 gpm. The smallest nozzle was actually the best after setting the air ratio. It's stinking hot and costs very little to run.

[@101perspective]

I installed a version of one of these in my van. I live out of my van on road trips and this type of heater is a game changer during the winter. It can be freezing out and you are nice and toasty inside just like if you were at home. Only issue I have with it is the ticking sound. Though, I've managed to muffle it a little bit. Still better than freezing though:)

[@Fun.Guy.Forager]

Love the comment on the 10mm socket (also 8mm). Harbor freight and gearwrench sells sets of 10 and 8 mm sockets with every style of socket.

[@fliegenmann2562]

I run one in my Garage for 4 years now, no complaints. 1 clean and 1 glow plug. Definitely cheaper than propane for me!

[@Lobsinus]

Strongly considering this for DIY camper conversion. It seems to be the most effective and efficient method of heating without having to have a high power electrical setup.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

We will use it in the Defenders to go camping in when they get home next week

[@PressingOnward]

I spent the extra money last fall and bought a Webasto gasoline fired Airtop Evo. Pulls fuel from my pickup truck tank. Was our full time heater in our 1172 Lance Camper all last winter and starting this winter again. So far zero issues and great heat output. Very low amp draw to. I would consider one of these as auxiliary unit though.

[@Lobsinus]

@aaronvlahovich7606 those seem to cost so significantly more than this, so much that i can't justify the cost. Also, I refuse to buy a product that the manufacturer will not give me a price for.

[@dagabbagool2600]

These things are fantastic. I use it in my shop, deer blind, camping. Even heated my entire house for the winter when my furnace failed. Much cheaper to run than the propane heaters.

[@retakenroots]

With the radiator I would consider putting the exhaust at the other side, so that the heat will travel through the whole radiator, heating it up more.

[@Grumleyf]

yeah some thought here

[@marcp4313]

Love from Germania I run my heater on Mountain mode. This reduces the pumprate and it runs fine. On switchlevel 1 it burns 135ml per hour. Without nearly 200ml. Sorry for bad Englisch ♥️

[@frank-lr]

Verrust die dann nicht schneller, wenn das Gemisch zu dünn ist? (schnell übersetzen kannst Du mit DeepL ;-) )

[@marcp4313]

@frank-lr verrusen tut sie wenn's zu fett ist. Diesel verbrennt mit Luftüberschuss besser. Wenn ein Dieselauto zu fett läuft hat er mehr Leistung aber Rust.

[@frank-lr]

@marcp4313 ah, cool, danke

[@1958johndeere620]

My insurance company said no wood stove in a shop because its an open flame and could explode with gas fumes. I said, " a furnace is not a closed flame and would do the same thing " They said yes, your right, but you can't have a wood stove because it could explode gas fumes due to open flame. Its like an argument with a fool.

[@turbolab2376]

Furnaces/ water heater in Canada need to be a minimum of 18” off the floor when installed in a garage, that is supposed to stop vapour explosions. Why we can’t just lift the wood stove off the ground idk but insurance companies hate wood heat. In Alberta it’s way cheaper even with a shit furnace to heat with natural gas. Have a wood stove and your insurance will over double, can’t burn enough wood to make it worth it.

[@skaaly]

We live in Minnesota and this state’s constitution offers that we have a right to keep warm in our spaces during winter. They won’t outright say no, but they’ll make it sound like that is what they are saying. Same with permits and paperwork, city hall or county offices won’t say no, they cannot say no, but they’ll make you think you’re not allowed.

[@jakefitzpatrick8550]

Had nothing to do with that. You can go get wood for free. Insurance is guided by the government like every other successful business. They don't want you do great your home fire free rather then buying fuels attached to the system.

[@jankington216]

Did you know that wood stoves aren't a sealed unit? They actually open up so that one can place a fuel of some kind inside.

[@mauriceupp9381]

You're right because every time that furnace cycles off and on it has to create a hotspot out in the open

[@keithwittman4741]

In 2021, I set up a diesel heater exhaust through a wall heat exchanger (copper tube aluminum fins) 4 foot section. It really does extract that lost exhaust heat! So good, I added an old computer fan (12v) to it. I've tryed used oil ,and concluded its not worth bothering, due to the extra work cleaning, and future repairs. Just get bulk home heating oil and enjoy the warm shop.

[@Misteryman321]

A cool trick a fellow truck oil burner guy taught me was wherever you store your used oil, pick out a big funnel and ratchet strap a bedsheet over it and then pour your unfiltered oil in. He also attached oil pan heaters to his tank to keep it warm

[@markeh1971]

Hi, good idea. A low wattage heater would keep it warm an ease it’s flow. Stick it on an Jerry can, ideal and strong. Take care M.

[@thedavesofourlives1]

bezos also sells similar filter bags with elastic tops for filtering herbs/essential oils, pricier than a bedsheet however!

[@Gearoid120]

Been running my Vevor 8kw heater in my 16x10 foot shed for two years now. Now one problem with it. work like a charm.

[@saleen235]

Does that clamping sound stops after a while?

[@wonkylommiter6364]

What is the one problem that it now has then ?

[@joeg7755]

Hey Rich, to increase efficiency, you will need to extract the latent heat from the exhaust, and your cast iron radiator is not a good choice for this application. It is much easier and cheaper to build a condensing, heat rejector out of thin wall materials such as aluminum, copper, or stainless steel. Think of a old car radiator with a fan. You will have to watch out for the different acids that will form in the condensation, that it won’t end up being a problem eroding your secondary heat exchanger. This upgrade should extract approx. 25% more heat. Secondly, to burn used oil engine oil, you have to remove as much ash as possible. Ash is what kills these heaters. Two easy (and economical) ways are 1) cyclone separator and 2) disk stack centrifuge. These are both very effective in removing ash from used oil.

[@jameswalsh2433]

He used a cast iron radiator wisely. the mass is a heat sink that will absorb and disapate the heat for a long time. You add a fan, he allows it to radiate.

[@MrRatkilr]

He is scavenging heat from exhaust. The problem will be moisture and water building up in the radiator. I used a huge aluminum intercooler from a kenworth truck. With a small fan to blow air through it. Heated my garage a bunch more. Until the water built up in it and blocked exhaust flow. Need a drain and catch can to drain water out from time to time.

[@MrRatkilr]

They only recommend a certain max exhaust length. Might get carbon and crud build up if exhaust is too long. With short 2 meter exhaust pipe. It never has clogged on me. Some guys run longer and get buildup to point of blocking flow and shutting off heater.

[@joeg7755]

@@jameswalsh2433 Have to disagree, yes it will help but not in the way you think. The cast iron rad will be a very poor vehicle for any latent heat transfer. But if Rich was to replace it, say with an all metal car radiator and fan (car radiator has good heat rejection), in comparison, its extremely efficient on heat transfer, (being used as a condenser), he will then have something to talk about, like possibly up to 20 or possibly 25% more heat from the same amount of fuel consumed. Ok, may not reach 25% but you really have to ask yourself this, do you want efficiency and save some money on your heating cost OR have some huge chunk of iron that may smooth out the temperature fluctuations as the heater cycles? Up to you, its your money, spend it or save it! And if he wants to run used engine oil, best to remove the ash as I stated before.

[@joeg7755]

@@MrRatkilr I agree, you should only be using recommended fuel and OEM recommended installation practices but this logic is seldom followed on the internet. Let the fun begin.

[@bixby9797]

I just bought one on Amazon and it was $80 with a coupon. It is going to be here on Saturday for use in the garage. Glad I stumbled across this. I had a Webaso in my truck years ago and it was superb. Down to the low 20's I never idled the truck and it put out great heat.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

3:14 It is mounted without bolts to allow for the rapid and repeated expansion of the cast metal parts. It's not to make it cheaper ... it's a safety and durability feature!

[@MAXIMUSMINIMALIST]

Good catch

[@wessteinbrecker1508]

I don't know about diesel but we used an old felt hat in a funnel to remove water from the air craft fuel that got pumped out of 45 gal drums Keep up the great work. blessings

[@thedavesofourlives1]

would the felt attract the water or something?

[@Middleman570]

I love these videos mainly because like the heater I wouldn’t buy it because a normal review doesn’t cover real details. I appreciate it I don’t think I could deal with the ticking. Would drive me nuts.

[@hhawg1]

Great video. I've been using these heaters for years without problems. But your video shows how's it works making maintenance easier. Thanks

[@canuckgarage]

Just used your link for the 8KW unit and in Canadian money it's $312!! 5KW unit is $162. Yeouch. I'll wait till I'm back in Arizona this winter to buy one there. Even with the exchange it'll be half price.

[@canuckgarage]

To be fair I searched around on Amazon and I think they changed the links on Rich. I found the Vevor 8K unit for $142. You've really got to be carful on the Jungle Site. Same item same part number but so many different sellers. Amazon is basically what's called a fulfillment center. They handle the distribution for a lot of different sellers.

[@thedavesofourlives1]

direct from vevor's canadian site they sometimes also sell refurbs. Shipped from canada to canada.

[@canuckgarage]

@@thedavesofourlives1 Your probably correct but I was trying to use Rich's links. They have a program that allows him to get paid if people use them. I wanted to support Rich but like I posted I think they switched it on him. Or the Canadian version of Amazon did.

[@TechOne7671]

For another 12 dollars you could buy 2 5kw heaters and have better distribution of heat, heat load matching and redundancy. Use one to keep your hands warm while you’re fixing the other one😂.

[@Huntinggearguy]

Amazon Canada sells these for around $120 Canadian pesos.

[@Mikep089]

I bought one of these a year ago and actually installed it today,what timing lol. I gotta say so far I'm impressed

[@cowboy6591]

The 8k version MAY have a larger orface in the jet. The circuit may be programmed to inject more fuel per minute. The honest way to comment would be to measure the ounces er hour of fuel consumption and calculate the BTU's per once of fuel.

[@inothome]

Agreed, surprised he didn't compare orifice sizes. Physical outside dimensions isn't a fair indication of being identical.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Numerous KZbin channels have repeatedly busted the 8 kw claim by conducting very careful tests monitoring fuel consumption over time

[@Fun.Guy.Forager]

It's programmed differently and has a different glow plug. The connector color was different which says it is using a different glow plug.

[@2hotscottpro]

On an 8 the fin chamber is longer.

[@BuiltbyD]

There is no jet or jet orifice. The fuel just drips in, under no pressure. The fuel pump meters it, but doesn't pressurize it. The programming could theoretically apply a higher pulse frequency of the pump, providing a higher flow of fuel, but that would also require more volume of air via a bigger or faster fan. That said, it's been proven ad nauseum that the 8K heaters are just 5K.

[@tommydmot7725]

"The kids were at the end of their shift" I was caught off guard lol really considering replacing my camper heater with one of these

[@TheMajictech]

The screen isn’t to filter anything, it gets hotter than hell negating the need for the glow plug to remain on. The plugs only used for a minute or so to get it started then the atomizer screen/ flame front takes it from there.

[@michaelllewellyn7215]

I think it is a Platinum mesh that works as a catalysis to ignite the flue

[@blackmarkettrucking5821]

Thanks!

[@danielmeade3599]

Let’s have a moment of silence for all the missing 10mm sockets out there.

[@FFLFFS]

Ahhh yes …Chinese government probably have cut back on the supply, leaving the poor ass fs to hand tighten. Their pay is probably docked “NO MORE FO YOU”

[@rtz549]

Some company sells a 100 pack.

[@CrimeVid]

Why ? they are not gone... They're just resting !

[@robertfitzsimmons2507]

😅😂

[@Fatamus]

I found all my 10mm sockets and wrenches 😞 Sadly the wife had raided my toolboxes and was pleased with herself for repurposing them into wind chimes a water fountain ⛲️. 🥺

[@thomaseverett4611]

I just ordered one the other day. Glad I seen this. Definitely calms the nerves about it working

[@teeslunk]

22:10 Trying to work while that power hammer is going off right next to ya. 😂😂

[@DrFiero]

A lot of that is the mic picking up that certain frequency. I've got one of these and it NOWHERE NEAR as loud as the video makes it!

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

It also echo's inside the container. But, some headphones and some tunes going and its worth the cheap heat

[@CyberlightFG]

That would drive me nuts. Can you replace that pump?

[@DrFiero]

@@CyberlightFG - Ear plugs are cheaper. :D

[@bandittelevision]

I used one of these as an emergency heater for my shop for 1 winter. Worked great.

[@xgouldiex]

You can burn waste oil in these but they carbon up all the time so you have to keep stripping them down and cleaning them. Kerosene / heating oil can be a very cheap clean option to run these heaters on

[@MikkelSV]

Turn the heat up, been running on waste oil for months without having to clean it.

[@nerys71]

I wish it was it should be a cheap option but kerosene is $9 a gallon around here :-( absolutely horrendous

[@scottsherwood8555]

I love your idea with the use of the old school radiator to capture the heat of the exhaust, brilliant!

[@doublehelix109]

the exhaust is suprisingly cool. I brought one as a tent heater for snow / winter camping. on the lower settings you can hold your hand infront and touch the exhaust and it doesnt burn. theyre a great little heating device especially for the price. was very suprised

[@gregmoessner3104]

Was it as loud as this model?

[@doublehelix109]

@@gregmoessner3104 its not loud at all. the pump makes a tick tick tick noise and then its just the fan blowing. it varies on what setting you have it on, my display screen is different and goes from 1 - 10. leaving it overnight for camping we only needed it on 1 and had it on 2 & 3 in the snow

[@MostlyPosative-nj5ex]

I’m happy that you took it apart and showed the inside. I’m going to remove that internal screen and put an inline screen in it instead. That’ll allow an easy screen change/clean when it becomes clogged.

[@merlepatterson]

Drill and tap a hole in the far end of the radiator and plug the hole the current exhaust is attached to and the radiator should heat evenly.

[@carwashadamcooper1538]

There should already be a pipe plug on the other end. If not, your idea is excellent. Either way, it needs cross flow for good heat capture and dissipation. I've removed a couple/few tons worth of those from old houses and I've never seen one with the supply and return plumbed into the same end. That's an oddball, and must have been very inefficient even when new.

[@merlepatterson]

@@carwashadamcooper1538 Yeah, I agree.

[@benjamindyer7348]

I like the radiator idea BUT the exhaust will cool enough that the moisture in the exhaust will condense into liquid water. Water that is condensed as a combustion by product is very acidic, it will rust through the bottom of that radiator in a few months. It's important to not let the exhaust of any combustion cases condense unless it's in a controlled way, in a Stainless steel heat exchanger for example. And has to he drained away in plastic piping

[@thisnthat3530]

@@carwashadamcooper1538 Water flow would be much lower than the exhaust gas flow, giving it time to rise to the top properly. With this setup the hot gasses should be piped in at the top with the outlet at the bottom for the cooled gas to escape, preferably, as you say, from the opposite end.

[@ascot4000]

@@carwashadamcooper1538 It was common in certain areas to have 2 pipes on one side, or even just use 1 pipe for both flow and return on cast-iron radiators. We used to see these in places like cotton mills here in the UK. Amazingly you can still see 1 pipe setups in modern-day life in places like New York. Things you notice in old and posh hotel in NYC. That and the excess steam being discharged in the streets and alleyways of a major city.

[@andythewelder6181]

If you put the exhause ot in the opposite end if the radiator it would definately work better

[@shrekpower]

I was looking at some of these machines. I was looking around and I am so grateful I ended up here this is awesome. Thanks for sharing that!

[@ThePaulv12]

Can you get a model with a louder pump?

[@thejollywrencher]

No kidding. That thing would drive me nuttier than I already am 😣

[@Serious-Man]

Preferably one that sounds like a cow bell.

[@gregmoessner3104]

Yes, I would like one louder too!

[@aerodoc2]

I bought an ultra quiet pump from a guy in the U.K. They are 90% less noise, with adjustable fuel flow.

[@florpdorp7190]

😂🤣

[@DanCone-nq8up]

thank you ,about checking the bolts .they where very loose like almost hand tight. i enjoy watching your show ,have a good day!!

[@TheGalifrey]

The outside fan can never fail while the heater is running as the same shaft runs the heater core fan. If one stops the heater will flame out.

[@SuperMaiki76]

Now who would be the best bloke to explain about this then Deboss Garage 😊

[@ignasanchezl]

If you're gonna burn engine oil just remember that this is not a catalytic device and you will be emitting multiple flue gasses including metals, possibly chlorinated compounds and many other gasses from incomplete combustion. Note that in generally this thing might not do complete combustion.

[@kobolila-yt]

I have been running these for 4 years now. I have the 'all-in-one' style like you have there as will as the kit with separate components. The easiest 'hack' I found for increasing output on these is to either run them without the end cap which holds the clam shell case together or just cut out the grill pattern in the cap. Try it, run the machine with and without the cap; there is a significant increase in airflow without it. That grill pattern on the cap really impedes the airflow. The second thing, for the all-in-one kits, if it has a grill pattern punched into the metal case, is to cut out that grill as well, it too impedes the airflow.

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

There's a guy in the UK with a KZbin channel named Joshua DeLisle who has done a lot of reviews and experiments with these heaters. Definitely worth a look!

[@demandred1957]

Helloooooo

[@larrydickman6016]

​@@demandred1957 That's David McLuckie.

[@brianlabrie4218]

Saw you in the ford pulling an enclosed going over the skyway a few weeks back. I couldnt catch up to wave hello. Great content, have always enjoyed!

[@briananderson1781]

Have you tried centrifugal filters? I bought a used tractor truck which I converted to a straight flat dump farm truck, this truck came with a centrifugal filter added on when it was new and it does seem to work. I clean the centrifuge each time I change oil and it has a coating of carbon like deposits.

[@dmorris1130]

You should try it with a baseboard radiator, a long straight tube with fins.

[@ChristopherSeaDawg]

You’ll be replacing those cheap green fuel lines soon. Mine didn’t even last a year. So I replaced the fuel pump also with one that is a quiet one. So much better! And I added a fuel filter too. It’s been working great and you can’t hear that ticking noise even when next to it.

[@EastMark06]

@ChristopherSeaDawg what pump did you use ? Have a link or p/n ?

[@digitaldreams1010101]

I don't know what he used, but Walbro company makes electro- magnetic pump that is completely silent, no moving parts, except the membrane that moves back and forth. Push/pull system. Hope you find one

[@Mastermindyoung14]

Vevor makes turbos and LS heads now. 🤯

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

I am so glad you did this review! I was just looking at these two heaters a couple of days ago and was trying to decide which way to go. Now I know! Thanks!

[@johanlundkvist5363]

Get a 12v power supply. I run minne on a cheap 12v 10A fixed voltage supply.Works great and no battery to care about. Just have to remember to shut the heater off and let it cool down. Before shuting of power supply.

[@Brian-mp2mv]

same here, and I also use the same power supply to power some of my 12vDC LED lights.

[@GearheadologyGarage]

I have 2 of these diesel heaters on my rv ever since 2021 they’ve have been amazing.

[@cyber641]

The 8KW are made, they larger than the 5kw. You can tune the 5kw to burn to about 8kw as you can tune a truly 8kw to burn over 10kw, but elevation plays a big factor and.... More fuel more heat means it can overheat faster and it will!. Also, yes all the parts are replaceable but they cost 1/3 the price of a new unit. The only part that's economically to replace are the bearings in the Fan, the inner ones will start to go after a year or so of tuned continuous use (heat destroys the inner bearing) . Also, I made, welded a flange to connect to a Ford 6.0 Diesel EGR cooler and have a solar hot water pump allowing the exhaust to keep my block warm on my VAN life E350 7.3 Powerstroke.

[@cyber641]

@christopherhines2718 I'm talking about the larger units, with larger burn chambers, not the tuned 5kw units

[@seansysig]

Rich this could be a public service announcement for diesel heaters! The perfect fuel explanation for these heaters.

[@originaldylanbaxter]

Wish you'd published this video a few months ago. My brand-new $1500 EBERSPAECHER AM3 D4R has given me a ton of grief and since they redesigned the burner (welding the atomizer screen into place) it REALLY SUCKS TO SERVICE. Replacing the atomizer on these costs over 200USD. BUY CHINESE.

[@daszieher]

This is exactly what is putting us (in Germany) out of business. Oh, and it's not the Chinese's fault.

[@TheBibliofilus]

The new small 5kw Webasto and Eberspächer diesel heaters are pretty bad compared to the older ones, have had several on Volvo diggers and farm tractors that won't work when it's cold or simply quit working without any errors..

[@knoodle123]

I have been living on a yacht in Boston year round for 3 years, these heaters are the best

[@braaapattack2937]

i literally just bought one last night (hcalory thou) for my snowmobile trailer... nice

[@Sackmatters]

You’ll like it. The Hcalory heaters work good. I have a few of these heaters, various brands and they’re for the most part all the same.

[@braaapattack2937]

@ yeah. I seen, I just liked the Bluetooth interface with the hcalory, make setting it up to maintain a heated level a lot easier

[@turtle1723]

​@braaapattack2937 Vevor now has a unit with a Bluetooth.

[@randall1959]

I use a 5K diesel heater in my Beetle and it works great. Been using it for 2 years.

[@_vilepenguin]

The glow plug needs 15 amps at start up. Repurposed HP server power supplies from eBay power them quite well, if you are not using a battery.

[@juliogonzo2718]

The one I have in my pickup (the physically smaller 2kw) draws about 9-10a during the glow plug cycle, its the same glow plug as the 5kw. I am using a lifepo4 battery that is a volt higher then lead acid so would be a tad higher amperage if I was running it off the truck battery. First year I was using the starting battery but the heater controller is reading 1.2V lower than the actual input voltage so it was getting error codes for low voltage and failing to start. Probably could change the board and control head to correct that but I already had the lithium battery.

[@christopherhines2718]

actualy 15a is the headroom the supply needs so it is not stressed start up and shutdown cycles is around 10A and yes computer supplies are great because they are switch mode supplies fairly small but lots of power so yeah an hp server supply would work good but its a little bit overkill because you can use just about any computer supply my one i made from a mini pc its already got 16 amps which is well within spec so larger desktops with more hardware inside can be 20-25 amps of 12v and believe it or not? you can also mod A xbox 360 supply so nice compact supply also 16a and i know of a guy who has used one with no problems on his diesel heater for 4 years already.

[@DomVito87]

so i use one for my house(first floor).... helps keep my heating cost down..... i can burn 1 gallon of diesel per 2 days...and it will maintain my first floor temp up to 68 degrees... my main furnace has to come on alot less... i also have one in my garage when im working on stuff... i absolutely love these things. very easy to maintain. I also mix a little kero with the diesel...helps keeps the combustion chamber a bit cleaner. Best so when the spring comes when you clean it out its not as bad! Done this the last 2 years!

[@Lagittaja]

The used radiator is a good idea. However your specific type of radiator maybe not the best. I think that's a steam radiator? I would try to find a radiator that has connections at the top and bottom. In my apartment the water filled radiators have the inlet on top and outlet on the bottom. For running diesel heater exhaust through, you would obviously reverse the flow direction with that type of radiator. When it eventually clogs up, just replace it.

[@Lagittaja]

Although obviously a vintage steam radiator will flow more easily due to the larger internal diameters. I would try and find one with inlet and outlet on opposite sides on the bottom, those should exist based on a quick search. Or find one that has extra ports on the top, I don't know what their purpose is, probably for cleaning? That would be best, you'd be able to choose the best flow path for your situation. Maybe these types can be cleaned and prolong their useful life before the other passages clog up.

[@wobblysauce]

It works, just it is a lot of mass to heat from cool, but once at temp it will do well.

[@zachary3777]

​@@wobblysaucethe exhaust gas isn't flowing through the whole rad. It's basically staying in the first chamber. With steam, the temperature difference creates a large pressure differential that draws steam into cold spots in the radiator, where it condenses.

[@Lagittaja]

@@wobblysauce Well, I did say "maybe not the best". Sure, it will work. The radiator he used might have an internal baffle to prevent the hot exhaust from immediately flowing towards the exit. But the thermal camera did show that only the closest chamber to the inlet/outlet started warming up significantly faster at the top than the rest. Sure, the whole thing will eventually warm up from conduction but if the exhaust was forced to flow from one end to the other, the whole thing would heat up faster and overall extract more heat from the exhaust before exiting the radiator.

[@haydenc2742]

Yeah...pump in the hot gas on the top fitting, exhaust on the bottom, plug one of the holes out...would definitely heat it much better, all that cast iron would take a long time to heat...but would also hold a TON of heat...even a cheap fan blowing across it would increase the heat output as well

[@kpc5]

I live in a very small house, i fitted one of these heaters in my basement and it really does a good job of heating my house, i watched a video on here that was putting used engine oil in with the diesel, DO NOT PUT USED OIL INTO THE HEATER, it will kill it, i had to buy a new burn chamber because the old one was so clogged with solid CARBON deposit, i run my heater on Kero and add a small amount of 2T oil just to lubricate the Pump, Kero is not a Lubricant so that's why i do that, my heater has been used by me for the third year now and i love it.

[@tonylam-u1t]

You will find after they removed much of the sulphur to reduce pollution the last decade or so, diesel also lost much of its ability to lubricate. Some car diesels hated the new fuel. One manufacturer had to redesign their diesel pump 4 times.

[@wiredforstereo]

They are identical, they won't burn used oil, won't burn your shop down, just won't work after a couple days. There is an 8 kW available, though still rare, which has a larger heat exchanger, and larger air piping.

[@hustleeveryday6582]

Man I love Vevor tools. I'm not saying they are my main source of purchasing my quality mechanics and wood working tools, but there are definitely certain tools that just make sense to not pay money for a name and that's where Vevor tickles my fancy! :)

[@minnesotatomcat]

That ticking sound is enough for me to not want one. I like my little wood stove and a fan 👍

[@tobypoingdestre]

They have a upgrade pump now a lot quieter

[@Pippy1]

Most of them are nowhere near this loud

[@fun_ghoul]

My grampa used to drive a car carrier in the fifties and sixties. The "diesel heater" of his day was lighting a small fire beneath the fuel tank to keep it from gelling. 🔥

[@bachtomin213]

The problem with using used oil heating is FJT can't get his cut on taxes at the pump for his Masters at the WEF.

[@Tb0n3]

Of course it must be a tax conspiracy and not because used oil has all sorts of metals in it that aren't good to breathe in.

[@MrRonluker]

Who is FJT? ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE TDS.

[@Ellasmm2-h3k]

I believe it was a typo. It should have said "FJB and the puppet masters."

[@Tb0n3]

@@Ellasmm2-h3k oh. That brainrot.

[@brapbrapmafucka]

Castro

[@TruthHunter707]

That could be a life saver during severe winter storms!

[@xgouldiex]

There is no 8kw units there only 5kw you could add more fuel but the can only add enough air to burn 5kw worth of fuel

[@LN997-i8x]

Some of the 8km units come with higher-dose fuel pumps.

[@hurtinalbertan3844]

I like the cast iron radiator idea, I've seen online people weld up a heat sink that's filled with sand and they hold almost all of the heat, but take longer to heat up/cool down. you could put that radiator inside a box of sorts and fill it with sand and maybe get the best of both methods and save some welding work. I also heard of guys having problems mounting the exhaust going into the radiator at the bottom from condensation running back towards the heater

[@leifhietala8074]

This is NOT "200% more efficient." It is significantly less inefficient. Your radiator is recapturing a significant portion of the waste heat the exhaust would otherwise throw overboard. Be aware that the moisture that condenses out of the exhaust stream can be quite acidic and resultant growing rust inside the radiator can block passages and choke the burner.

[@Pahrump]

Just stop

[@SacredHeart0520]

So could you tell us. The percentage Of gained efficiency then . Cause you seem to have. Agreed but wanted to tell him he’s wrong

[@Sean-f2f9p]

I've been running one in my camper in Northwestern Ontario all winter runs great and heats my camper to 25 degrees all day and night In minus 40c I only run regular diesel, No Oil!!!, I only add very small amounts of polar flow conditioner on the super cold days to prevent gelling.

[@robertfinnerty7201]

I think your concept of using the cast iron radiator is awesome however I think your mistake is you need to have your intake high on one side and your exhaust low and at the other side of the radiator. This way the hot exhaust has to run all the way across the radiator and as it cools will drop and exit the low exhaust port. Keep up the excellent work.

[@BrodieBr0]

Dang that's a nice trick using that old cast iron raidiator! I got one laying around and didn't even think of using it. 👍

[@DylanHickson1]

I had a U shape in my exhaust on mine in my service truck cabinet. The U filled with condensation after a year but that was due to miss-installation. I've had no issues otherwise, these heaters are simple and reliable for how cheap they are!

[@garynicholls72]

Hi Gary from the UK again, connect the exhaust to the bottom as you did but then connect the other exhaust to the top at the other end of the radiator, it will give you more heat in the radiator

[@TresMamboMusicSchool]

Hi there. Greetings from DownUnder. I have installed these with great success in campervans. Your idea about increasing the efficiency is good but it takes A LOT of energy to heat up 150lb of cast iron, energy that is robbed from the room. INSTEAD, all you need to do is extent the exhaust pipe same diameter as long as possible before it exits the building. Run it all the way around the container if you can 50, 100 ft if you can. Then that whole length the exhaust is loosing heat to the room through its thin walls. The cooler the exhaust at the exit point the better the efficiency. In regards to the ticking pump and burning thick oils...put the tank(s) a long way from the burner and suck the oil through a thin copper tube that is attached to long exhaust run...and voila...the waste heat is used to thin the oil by heating it to around 80C before it hits the pump. ALSO the pump separated out of the unit can be wrapped up in glass-wool and put into a box to kill the sound AND keep it extra warm. Keep up the great vids. Cheers Pete