CHEAPEST Lithium Battery | The Freezer Review | 100Ah Lithium LiFePO4 - PART 2

[@vesautoelectrics]

The TEARDOWN is ready✅ The results are interesting. Watch Part 3 here 👉kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXuplaeaqbN6Y6M

[@enya2enya256]

Makes me wonder about a large E Bay sellers review on these... Great vids..!

[@vesautoelectrics]

You and me both!

[@MDPCORP]

Hey Buddy Great Video. I would love to see a comparison test with maybe a VoltX and Kings Brand battery to see capacity etc..

[@vesautoelectrics]

Thanks, glad you liked it. They are on my list for testing, just when funds will allow. Will keep you posted.

[@chrisduckworth2022]

Looking forward to part 3 and seeing what cells are in the battery to see if it would be a suitable candidate for harvesting the cells for a DIY build.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Me too! Sorry for the delay, i will film the video and upload beginning of next week. Stay tuned.

[@vesautoelectrics]

@chrisduckworth2022, i drained the battery by running the fridge whilst camping last weekend for 24 hrs. My original plan was to fully charge the battery prior to doing the teardown, but now I’m thinking not so i can check the cells individually and see how balanced they are at around 50% charged. Interested in your opinion on this?

[@chrisduckworth2022]

Sounds like a plan, although if the BMS has cut off discharge, cell imbalance should still be noticeable at fully discharged. It comes down to the BMS and how it functions. Cell balancing is usually done when everything is fully charged and the BMS can spot any cells out of whack. I've heard people talk about BMS's needing several discharge cycles to properly bring cells into balance. Could be worth opening the patient up to get intel on cells and BMS and try charging from depleted to full, knowing more about what to expect ?

[@vesautoelectrics]

Video is done and uploaded! Let me know what you think.

[@GrantWeymouth]

Hi Matt, Just wondering how you got the SOC Bar Graph to show actual battery left, I have wired one of these as per the instructions but the bar graph doesn't move, even though my battery is 62% it shows 100% on the graph. I don't suppose you could put up some instructions on what you did. Much appreciated, keep up the great work.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Hi Grant, apologies for delayed response. I had the same issue at the beginning, but can’t remember what i did to rectify the issue. I will have a play over the weekend to hopefully jog my memory and let you know.

[@SolargreenMowing]

I brought 1 of these battery and test it and it held over 100amp but I test I did was 20amp over 5 hours. Than I brought 3 more over a 6 month period and all 4 held over 100amp doing the same test. These battery have porch cell and weight over 12kg but they don't have temperature protection so I use a charge controller that has this temperature protection build in to it.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Yeap the bms is very basic with no temp protection, so extra precautions is always the way to go.

[@vesautoelectrics]

In case you missed it, Watch Part 1 here👉 kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKHLnqlsrLKEmM0

[@chrisduckworth2022]

Great vid and test. I am looking around for some cheap 100Ah lithiums that I can tear down and replace the crappy BMS's with a much better one to get a decent 200Ah battery without having to buy cells from China and wait 6 months for them. I need to watch the tear down next and see what the cells are and see if they will be suitable for my needs. Just wondering what setting you have on the fridge for battery protection ? I have a couple of fridges and I can set the fridge cut off down as low as 9V. It could be the battery still has enough juice in it to run longer but the fridge setting is cutting it off before the BMS does, although

[@vesautoelectrics]

Thanks for the feedback, glad you liked it. I did double check the fridge, it’s set to low which is 10.5 volts before it cuts out. But as there was no voltage present then the bms cut in. The teardown will be filmed and uploaded next week. I am thinking along the same lines as you. keep the cells but upgrade the BMS, also with Bluetooth capability. Be interesting to see what cells are used? What will you be powering once you get you battery set up?

[@chrisduckworth2022]

@@vesautoelectrics I regularly go camping with a 75L dual zone fridge freezer, which I am running off a Jaycar Powertech 100Ah Lithium at the moment. It wasn't my first choice but I was due to go away on a trip and the home made Lithium pack I built using Headway 38120 cells got destroyed by a rogue MPPT controller that caused a bunch of the cells to vent. My own stupid fault for not having a BMS on the pack but I had been running it for a couple of years on my old controller with no issues. Anyway... besides the fridge, I have lights in the tray of the ute, as well as work lights mounted around the vehicle. I also plan to move from using a small butane stove to an induction cooktop as I go cold weather camping where the butane canisters will routinely get too cold to work and have to keep swapping them out. I also want to be able to run my air compressor off the aux battery instead of the starter, so I can leave the car off while airing up. I also use a lithium chainsaw, so using the battery charger for the 54V packs it uses without flattening my starter or needing to run the car would be nice. I am thinking a 200A BMS would give me enough for any of those tasks. Having the BT interface would be good to be able to keep an eye on the cells and how they are balanced.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Sorry for delayed response, only just seen your reply. A 200amp bms would cope with any of them loads and the Air compressor will surge on initial start up. What size induction cooktop would you use? You would need a pretty large battery bank, especially cold weather camping where solar input wouldn’t be much?

[@chrisduckworth2022]

@@vesautoelectrics I am planning for a single "burner" induction plate. They are rated to 2200W but careful selection will get one with variable power levels, allowing you to run off lower wattage, as long as you don't exceed the inverter or BMS capabilities. Induction is very efficient, so you use a bit to get to temp, then it pulses to maintain temp. You also don't cook for as long because of the efficiency. Cold weather will be a balance between solar and DCDC charging.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Sounds like a good idea, the induction cooktops have come a long way and can be a very efficient, clean and simple way to cook off grid. So really a 200amp bms and 2500watt inverter would work great.

[@ntjack8894]

Thanks for the video.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it.

[@tucker2074]

Thankyou

[@vesautoelectrics]

Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@phiromtauch6059]

Can you do mobi & atem lithiums!!

[@vesautoelectrics]

Have actually been looking at the atem power batteries. Will keep you posted. Thank you for watching.

[@vesautoelectrics]

HOW to make and wire a 200 amp Battery Shunt in DIY Digital Battery Display Box 👉kzbin.info/www/bejne/foemi5Roib92pNE

[@stephenwrigglesworth3650]

Hi can you test a kings 120 amp lithium next please

[@vesautoelectrics]

Hi, it maybe on the cards in the future😉. Are you looking to buy the kings ?

[@stephenwrigglesworth3650]

@VES Auto Electrics I have bought one, and I wanted to know how it performed.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Arh ok, I haven’t had much to do with the kings lithium batteries but i do have a couple customers that have the 120ah and so far they are happy with its performance. Only time will tell. What are you planning to run off it?

[@Sylvan_dB]

Great test. I really like your shunt in a box with Anderson connectors. I'm going to make one! At 13.6v, even after sitting for 24 hours, it seems to me it is not at full charge. After fully charging a 12v LiFePO4 battery I'd expect 14v or higher after 24 hours. If I remember correctly, your first video showed 13.2v after sitting for 24 hours after a full charge? I suspect the cells inside are not balanced correctly. This may be due to faulty/mismatched cells or failure to balance good cells during assembly. There are 4 cells, which are specified to be 3.65v each at full charge, or 14.6v. There is very little capacity over 14.2v (3.55v/cell). I expect the Victron charger to be doing its job, but perhaps the BMS is cutting off before 14.2v because one of the cells has passed the 3.65v limit. However if the voltage after full charge has increased from 13.2v to 13.6v, there is hope! Most of the time these batteries can slowly balance the cells when repeatedly charged while full. (Full charge, disconnect, full charge, ...) Every day the peak voltage reached should be a little higher if the battery is improving the cell balance. After a few days and not increasing, it is balanced as much as it will do. I have four "identical" lithium batteries. Two of them will charge to 14.55 volts before the BMS cuts off. The other two reach only 14.51 volts. (They were purchased one week later but shipped from a different warehouse.) After charging to 14.5v and resting for 24 hours, these 4 batteries remain at 14.45v to 14.48v. If I charge until the BMS cuts off, the next day the voltage will have decreased to under 14.5v, leading me to think the balancer drains to that level.

[@vesautoelectrics]

Thank you for your feedback, really informative and helpful. I always thought fully charged lithium batteries would be around 14.4-14.6 volts then resting voltage around 13.2-13.6volts? That’s really impressive that yours stay at the mid 14volt range. I’m guessing my charger will reduce the bulk charge of 14.4volts down as it goes through the stages to the 13.6v on float charge. There is a good chance the cells could be mismatched or poor quality going by the price i paid for the battery. What brand batteries do you have? And what set up? Thank you for commenting on my shunt. I’ll do a video on how i made it soon!

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@vesautoelectrics You are correct, the resting voltage is usually under 13.6v. It just takes a lot longer than 24 hours to get there! Just measured some that were last charged to full last August - 13.36v. The 4 I just mentioned are TimeUSB 100Ah Pro. They are on the bottom shelf of a service cart where I have them wired two in parallel with an Anderson connector. The two pairs can be joined in parallel for 400Ah (3 andersons in parallel) or in series for 24v (3 andersons, 3 wires: plus to plus, minus to plus, minus to minus). The 24v is to run a 3000 watt inverter. I also have a couple of Chins smart 100Ah in battery boxes for portable use.

[@johnshaw359]

@@vesautoelectrics Is that a lead-acid charger, because that, I suspect would discharge the battery to lead-acid float voltage.

[@vesautoelectrics]

It’s a Victron smart charger, it can do Lead Acid, AGM, GEL and LifePo4 chemistries.

[@ericklein5097]

14V is rather high. That’s 3.50V per cell. 13.6 is 3.40 per cell. I’d expect a new cells to settle somewhere in between 3.45V and 3.50V but this all really depends on how long you let them sit in the CV stage. If you let them absorb down to literally nothing for 18 additional hours at the end of a 20 amp charge where you’d typically cut it off once the current is down to 2 amps then you probably could get new cells to rest closer to 3.60V.

[@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513]

I can get this battery for under $250 but I will give it a miss..........

[@vesautoelectrics]

I agree, even at that price, which is really cheap for a Lithium battery. It doesn’t seem worth it.