Chevy Silverado Knock Sensors FIX IT RIGHT The First Time

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Chevy Silverado Knock Sensors FIX IT RIGHT The First Time

[@BarbaraIngramTravel]

Dude, this is the BEST knock sensor video! You do not waste words or time. Nothing is worse than listening to someone yammer on about some BS while you're leaning over your truck trying to get these stupid things out. Thank you for being so thorough!

[@dunbartuason5443]

Its okay man, you are waaaaayyy ahead than any of us. Your patience to save us from severe headaches is very honored. Thank You on behalf from all the people that learned from this video.

[@nickynorker]

Excellent video. Just replaced both knock sensors, wiring harness and intake manifold gaskets. I followed your video step-by-step.. All dismantled in about 1.5hrs.. (One minor issue... Anti-freeze from throttle body hose made a small mess until I was able to cap it off.).. Other than that.. Replaced the sensors & wiring harness with A/C Delco OEM parts (and used RTV as per the video & service bulletin).. Also used Fel-Pro's metal frame gaskets for the intake. I had it back together in about 3.5 hours.. I snapped a bolt on the intake manifold when I was tightening everything down.. Fortunately there was enough of the broken stud showing. A quick removal with a vice-grip and back in business. One thing I would recommend is to change out the intake manifold bolts. There are 10.. The GM dealers charge about $25 for 5 bolts.. so two boxes will set you back another $50. Again... What looked like a daunting task was made easier by the video's step-by-step instructions.. Also.. He provides some comedic relief which makes the job a lot easier! GREAT VIDEO!

[@talon0863]

Wow 3 fun-loving times. I know the feeling. While watching I was wondering how your back holds up to all that, and then saw that work stand! Nice. IMO you are the best instructor. Never pedantic or boring but well humored and cleaver. You are saving people so much grief with your vids. Thank You Sir.

[@briansmobile1]

talon0863 Thanks!

[@florenciovaldez3630]

briansmobile1 swear

[@aarongrady3186]

Your video has inspired me to do more repairs due to the fact your instructions were fantastic! My knock sensor areas was full of water and bank 1 was completely rusted. I have completed the repairs and No check engine light! Thanks and keep the repair video coming.

[@TrueBlueEG8]

Every now and then a job like this comes along, and kicks your arse. It is just to remind you to be humble, and it usually renews your respect for what you do and makes you extra careful in future. Good that you got it sorted in the end, because thats what really matters.

[@jeffkrauss412]

Thanks for posting this. I just replaced the knock sensors in my 2001 Chev Silverado along with the gaskets and wiring harness. All Chev parts! The only extra step I took was I removed the alternator to give me more room to remove the intake manifold. This job turned out easier than I thought. Great video, Thanks again!

[@Humpday18]

I'm about to do the same thing to my 01 Silverado. Any tips before I go at it?

[@matthewcooper9014]

Just wanted to say you are the man... I am not a mechanic but with your videos I have been able to complete a few decent sized jobs.. thanks for the great videos

[@thomaspaccione8237]

I just came across this, I am getting ready to do this this coming week while we are still under covid-19 house arrest. I have never seen a creeper like that!!! I hope I can get one, it will make the job much easier. Thanks for the great vid, I feel more confident that I can do the job.

[@Marshallsmechanicsandcustoms]

For anyone that doubt this man….. I had the same everything, down to the year of the truck, same symptoms, same codes. Everything. I did what he said, and no more check engine light, I have full power back in the throttle, and couldn’t be more happier.

[@RonaldGriegoyoda]

Brian, I been watching your videos for a long time. I want to take this time to say you are doing a great job and to thank you for informing your youtube subscribers on the daily work we go through. I'm an ASE master automotive/diesel technician with 24 years of experience. I have enjoyed watching your videos to see the inside of a fellow technician doing his work. I have done hundreds of these knock sensors throughout the years because of the poor design of the location of the sensors getting rusted and the poor quality of the wiring issue. I never once thought about running a bead of silicon to divert the water from the sensors. Very good tip by the way. I also remove the rear foam inserts and throw it away. I only use AC Delco sensors and wiring harness with these repairs. I'm sorry that you had to do it 3 times, I know the pain on having to do the job over again. Good thing these intakes are easy to remove but we still lose money when we have to do more than once... From one tech to another you'er an awesome tech and that from a tech that has worked with hundreds throughout the years...

[@robertthurston6858]

So as a pro what is the estimated time to do this knock sensor job ?

[@Ace-44]

What kind of silicone is he using specifically?

[@P00RKN00W]

@@robertthurston6858 i think book time calls for like 2hrs

[@robertthurston6858]

My check engine light when off a year ago.

[@Ace-44]

@@robertthurston6858 what kind of silicone did you use

[@luxbalthazar7646]

I just replaced my knock sensors on my 05 Silverado, just finished the job 30 minutes ago, using this video and it was tremendous how accurate and in depth it was. Thank you so much. After all was said and done it's not a horrible task but if you've never done it, it seems almost unlikely at best. Thank you so much again. This is the only video somebody should and and needs to watch to do this job. My truck is much more sound now that the ratios are restored to the norm.

[@jamesavery6671]

lol I have the same year of Silverado and have to do mine. I have all the parts and its a nice day today....decisions.... decisions lol

[@andycory908]

Damn my man. I have a issue with mine on my 2006 1500 HD 3/4 ton 6 ltr V8. I use is to haul my 32 foot fifth wheel . Both were my father's who passed away at Christmas. He just drove the truck as he was to sick for yrs to do anything and as a retired log hauler in northern Ontario Canada he was too proud to ask for help and we never knew if he had problems. I could easily buy a new HD truck but as it was my dad's I can't every sell it and am looking to get it running good before I start it's full restoration back to new in memory of the old man. Your video has helped. I was going to use aftermarket. By the way I see alot of videos and your great at explaining without alot of non sense. Hope you make more videos. Respect from our family to yours. Beardmore Ontario Canada ( the frozen north

[@glockperfection19]

This is absolutely the best demonstration I've seen of this job. Great video Brian!

[@kennethrada9074]

I just wanted to thank you for showing me how to replace the knock sensors on my 2002 Avalanche. It took me a while longer than I thought it would but knowing I had all the details from your video to fall back on I dove in, took my time and got it done. It was even slightly fun. Keep 'em coming!

[@reso1349]

Another great design from the fine folks at generous motors. $10 dollar part, $500 hundred dollar repair, I swear this is done on purpose to keep the revolving door of money rolling in. Love the effort you put into your videos Brian keep them coming.

[@tyecurtis7228]

I have the same problems. Anybody want a Hummer. 6.0 Chevy. two thumbs down.

[@matty86suk]

Tye Curtis trade you for my 6.0 ford...

[@TapiaJ]

For mechanics its called job security. Ofcourse they do this on purpose. Imagine if they engineered there cars to be perfect. They would make no money on selling parts. Mechanics complain on this issue, but dont complain on the $500 they make on the job.

[@jamesavery6671]

LS engine are generally easy to work on. Way more space around the engine than the ford OHC stuff

[@shmeek7429]

Honestly, my 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 can never detect the code correctly. Has me fixing shit that it doesn’t even need

[@francodiantucci1638]

Hi Brian...just wanted to drop a quick note to you and say thank you..,.l had the notorious rear knock sensor go out on my Chevy and because of your Awesome video l was able to save myself the quoted $405 dollars the local shops wanted to charge me to fix it. Keep those videos coming they are appreciated more than you know.

[@reso1349]

Brian your videos are so helpful across all makes and models. As a shade tree mechanic myself, I always learn new tips and tricks from your efforts. Thank you.

[@SoonerAutoSolutionsLLC]

Thanks a ton for the video, I just went through the painstaking process of replacing the knock sensors on a 06 2500HD. I went with the OEM from the dealership (GM Part No.), Bench tested both with a multimeter before install and at various points during installation. So far so good!

[@Budl1te]

Correct me if I am wrong but the dirt/corrosion of the holes do not play a part in connectivity. It is the actual threaded hole that needs to be clean, I wire brush to clean the threads as you would clean battery post and connector to insure the threaded part of the knock sensor makes good contact with the threaded portion in the valley as that is the actual point of contact between the engine and the sensor itself. Wire brush that comes from gun cleaning kit attached to the drill should work fine. Another area is the connector that the harness plugs into, those should be scraped to help with connectivity. Over time a film builds up over the metal contacts that can cut voltage or prevent full time clean contact. Great video, you made short work of it.

[@heyttsguy]

Ud think a little di-electric grease on the threads would prevent any future problems as well.

[@traviscochran6280]

And that is how I am going to spend my weekend in an unheated shed. Thanks for the video and tips. I can now visualize my fun loving time working on this.

[@jacksonreid6412]

travis cochran Yes, it’s quite fun. 😢 In the category of major truck surgery.

[@briansmobile1]

You're welcome! How did it go?

[@ricford39]

Just FYI this is an excellent video for THIS Chevrolet engine. The 8.1L Chevy engines (in my RV) has the knock sensor on the outside of the engine. Great news for replacement.

[@Bigbran0032]

This was a great video and very informative, ive done alot of these intake gasket, knock sensor jobs on these motors as a gm technician and I think you covered it perfectly for the DIYer at home I think I may have even learned a trick or two. Thanks for what you do and always trying your best at putting out great information!

[@briansmobile1]

Brandon Sartain Wow- thanks Brandon!

[@rexswank6068]

I watched your video, got some good pointers that others leave out. Was able to remove & replace the sensors, harness and also the fuel injectors too. Came apart quickly and back together fairly fast. Fired right up, cleared the codes and road tested in under 4 hours. Thanks for the video.

[@anthonyrodriguez-fo4lz]

Brian, Thanks for the video. It's going to be the second time dealing with the knock sensors. I also used Aftermarket sensors. Learned a valuable lesson.

[@kyleturnbow3373]

Nice detailed video, I need to do this on my 6.0 2500 hd. My OCD was going crazy with how dirty you left everything under that cover. I would be going to town cleaning every surface of oil and grime before putting the manifold back on!

[@pughconsulting]

My CEL popped on for the rear sensor a week ago. I cleared it and it hasn't come back on, but I know it's only a matter of time, especially since I'm one of those that clean the engine every 6 months or so. Thanks for the video. Will reference it when I get the lucky draw.

[@Smalltechguy]

I've got a 2003 and the back knock sensor was rusted. I'm glad I seen the video first prior to putting it back together. Lots of carbon in the chambers though. The vacuum was very busy along with the cleaner to get the head portion clean.

[@michaelgreen4055]

I have a 2005 Silverado that came up with a P0332 code and this video was extremely helpful with the repair. Thought this would be a harder, but the clear step-by-step instructions was helpful. I was able to fix it on my first try. Thanks for posting this!

[@FRANKHURTADO01]

Hey Brian, There is a way to stop the automatic lights from turning on in GM vehicles and it is very simple. Set the hand brake while the vehicle is off and the keys are out of the ignition. Next time you go turn on the vehicle the automatic lights shouldn't kick in.

[@willmechling2537]

I'm an old man who worked for GM and would have loved to go to work if you'd been there. You make knuckle-busting look fun. Check out some of the old re-calls for Pontiac fire-birds; I loved ripping up those floorboards and welding rust...LOL ...You are Way Cool man

[@derekgriffith4324]

Just did this for the 3rd time. Had been using ac delco sensors. This last time both sensors spun in their housings and wouldn't come out. I ended up breaking both off in the block. They break extremely easy in that situation. I was able to get the broken pcs. Out easily with a good bolt extractor set. I tapped both holes and made sure the new sensors threaded in very easily. I used ntk ( ngk) sensors this time. Bench tested both with a multimeter before putting them in. Used a new g.m. harness purchased at the dealer. I had a dorman harness that tested fine but I still changed it anyway. Got it back together and good now. Finally no more codes.

[@wilkesjournal]

I was looking here in the comments for this same problem, I have new-looking aftermarket sensors stuck in the block and won't come out. They turn and turn. Hoping not to break them off and avoid having to tap and re-thread.

[@derekgriffith4324]

@@wilkesjournal good luck. I was trying not to myself but it happened anyway. It really was a blessing in disguise I believe. I got them our very easily with a good extractor set from harbor freight. Made by icon. I ordered a decent set of taps off Amazon. A starter and bottom tap 10 mm 1.5 pitch I believe. I think the threads being screwed up was alot of the entire problem because new sensors have to be tourqed exactly right and with the threads like they were wasn't letting it happen. It's good to go now. Haven't had a minutes trouble with these ngks installed correctly.

[@wilkesjournal]

@@derekgriffith4324 I guess I got lucky too. My threads were ok, but the aftermarket sensors were both spinning around inside the bases when I tried to remove them. What I was lucky enough to be able to do was stick the tip of my MIG welder down in there and weld the base to the center. They came out easily after that! I replaced with GM of course, and they were totally different, the centers didn't spin and they were able to be torqued correctly. Happy wrenching!

[@Me-bd4bh]

Brian, As always very detailed and informative. Coming into a new shop you are always going to see something for the first time, while fixing knock sensors on other vehicles do not always pose the same problems I found that I didn't research the TSB's when I first investigated the problem, had to redo a truck again after it came back I looked for TSB's and found the only step I missed was the Silicone 'dam/barrier'. Ultimately it can be discouraging for someone to do something twice even a third time, but I want you to know that I appreciate your tenacity and zealousness to teach others while having to go through it. You are a inspiration to others, namely myself and I am getting together the funds for my camera to start on my car vids! Always looking forward to your weekly adventures and videos! Keep up the good work brother! Cheers! Nick

[@victornaja5799]

Hi i don't have an inch lb torque wrench so what is it 44 in lb in ft lb??

[@michaelscott733]

Interesting Brian. I am replacing a 5.3 now, and the replacement motor had that bead in front of the lead sensor. I was trying to figure why it was there, and I happened to see this video. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and educate the public.

[@richc9503]

Thanks Dude, I know this is old but it helped me now! Had a rough idle for 2 years but it would never throw a code, got knock sensor 2 code twice in 2 weeks, already tried everything else so hopefully this is it. Always like your videos, you explain stuff well for us shadetree guys that can't afford a real mechanics services. Much appreciated!

[@kevinbennett2565]

Im glad you got in detail quick i actually just picked up an 03 Yukon xl beautiful rig. I decided to degrease the engine and i did hit the intake area heavily then about 3 days later i get a po327. Sucks because I'm on the west coast i have to smog it within the week . 😢

[@wysetech2000]

Great video, Brian. I hate doing things twice let alone three times. Unfortunately, that's how we learn sometimes. As long as it's working without problems now is the most important thing. When I see a failure for the first time I usually search for TSBs.

[@briansmobile1]

wysetech2000 That's sage advice. I'm familiar with these issues, but not that the aftermarket sensors set codes on this truck and under these conditions. I've done them before with success. This time was different and I've seen writings online indicating others have had the same issue too.

[@93mythic]

You don’t have to take the throttle body off, it’ll come off with the intake manifold as one piece. Just disconnect both hoses underneath it. Other than that great vid

[@mrautoguy8419]

It's a preference.

[@Officer_Naughty-Cuffs]

Thanks dude

[@JoeCnNd]

Thanks.

[@86alexpat]

Followed everything step by step. great job saved me $400 . Thanks for the video.

[@timranson]

best video ever man... helped me out a lot and only took a couple hours to change out the sensors.. this video definitely saved me from spending big bucks at the dealership. i appreciate the details at the end also.. awesome job

[@brettmcreynolds8820]

Brian I cannot thank you enough for posting these vid's - I was at a serious stress point and your videos are like zen auto repair - your commentary is both calming and informative!! I love the way you talk through every step you are a tru pro! In a world of bullS*@# you are contibuting something real! Dude keep it up!!

[@briansmobile1]

Wow Brett! Thanks! I know this was 3 years ago, but after an insanely stressful and sad week for me- I love to hear it! And I'm glad I'm still alive!

[@briansmobile1]

(An angry lady pulled a gun on me)

[@geraldolmstead1335]

you are an excellent instructor because of this you will be in high demand so beware of burn out.you have helped me alot thank you.

[@juliantolley2191]

Am doing it today. Have huge range if tools but could find nothing to get to right hand coolant hose on the carburettor so my advice is drop the carb off. Makes it easier

[@chriscam23041]

Did this a few weeks ago. Upgrading the intake gasket with a fel pro is highly recommended. The stock gm gasket is junk. You will find your self taking that intake off again and replacing that gasket.

[@deere3321]

I got the code on my 01 Silverado about a month ago. My mechanic said if it's running OK to wait and see because it was running fine. I have always checked my gas mileage every tank and since the code, my mileage has gone up about 2 mpg. I just got 18.56 mpg after a combination of highway and town driving. This truck has never done better than 17.5 highway until now. This is the 3rd tank I have checked all with similar results. I'm just guessing the reason is the timing is advanced more w/o the knock sensors therefore giving it more power.

[@dziggy3004]

Just wrapped up my arduous R&R late this evening (took 7-months to work up the courage and (3) separate noon-to-late nighters sessions) -- now waiting till morning to try and start it up. Well, I watched a different video on this, and they didn't HIGHLIGHT enough (as you did) underscoring that it was 44-"INCH"-pounds (initially, then 88-"INCH"-pounds.) After torquing for what seemed like an eternity -- trying to incorrectly achieve "FOOT"-pounds on #1 and #2 (bolts), I eventually realized some'n ain't right. Must be the wrench! Tried calibrating my torque wrench using a second old-school needle torque wrench, and all was okay for 44-FOOT-pounds -- but then someone mentioned in YET another video -- it's "INCH"-pounds!!! NOT "FOOT"-pounds!!! Performed an EMERGENCY relaxing of two middle bolts --- fortunately, they still seem to work fine. I did notice the KNOCK SENSOR WIRES slide a little too easy inside the big RUBBER GROMMETS, so I added a dab of gasket helper around each wire entrance. The rear already had the horseshoe silicon dam that you mentioned, the front didn't (wish I added it, too, will do on MY NEXT attempt!) Thought about removing the back foam, but we get so many mice in the engines in the country that I didn't want to deal with the nests. Maybe I'll poke a nail-sized hole in the base of the REAR foam, and silicon up the base of the front foam. Guess powerwashing the engine wasn't a good idea! (It's been a NEW truck for me -- albeit a 2002 w/some 300K miles on it!) Mine has the direct throttle-wire(s) on them, requiring MEGA extra effort to get the CRUISE CONTROL-cable undone (SECRET: push tiny probes into BOTH sides of C-clip!) I don't know why it took several additional hours to locate an 8mm socket! And yet a separate trip to Harbor Freight for a 22mm socket! Who would guess most "NORMAL"-socket sets cut out at 19MM or 21MM!!! I flashed a light into the valve openings and could see enough debris that I cranked my air compressor up to 80psi and blasted each valve opening (eventually learning to put a plastic bag in them when completed to end my whack-a-mole game!) Quasi-finished, and since I blew out a lot of gas from the REMOVED manifold, I was expecting some major LOUD engine noises -- so thought I'd save the neighbors from that since I only finished at midnight (day 3)! Also thought fighting any fires would be easier in the daylight! GLAD I JUST WATCHED YOUR VIDEO! Was thinking I'd first start it up without the air-dam in the morning -- but your video just saved me yet another headache! ps. The other video I watched (and was following) suggested removing the vacuum connection at the brake master cylinder side since it was more easily accessible (vs. the opposite end behind the manifold.)

[@heyttsguy]

Just used this vid to replace the intake gaskets on my Hummer H3 5.3L. Went off without a hitch. I used a shopvac to suck off all the debris (rather than blowing it everywhere) before deep cleaning with a scotchbrite pad and Wd40 along with a final pass of brake cleaner. FYI there are no knock sensors on the plate in this model.

[@megankeirsey3397]

Hey thanks for the video. I followed the video to the t and got mine done. The back one was so badly rotted that I had too chisel it out. Thanks for the vid again.

[@estebahnrandolph8724]

I pulled that spring out on that auto light switch and it works great now ! Just put where you want and it stays there..

[@L4Z3R37H]

my father in law went through this 3 times with the local mechanic, they ended up filling in the well with ultra grey after another round of sensors. I don't know if the sensors were AC Delco or not. However, the truck hasn't tripped the knock sensor code since.

[@timothyschmidt2576]

Great video! I'm getting ready to do mine; had an incredible amount of rain lately and had to chug through some standing water and, well, the engine got soaked. It kept on running though! Thanks for taking the time to make your videos, Dude!

[@deankay4434]

Nice top side body rest, needed for any dude working on a truck as they seem to get taller. GM produced some TSBs' on this issue or codes, but using RTV inside and outside will be 98% of the fix. Cleaning the interior knock sensor mounting location is an excellent idea. I would use a high temp red RTV silicone because it appears to be a better formula and hated the 90's GM black stuff as it hardened up over time. It's a choice, but as a lot of electrical repairs, I got into the habit of using dielectric grease on the connector which keeps moisture / water out but helps with any corrosion however slight but create resistance. As you well know by now, a lot of circuits use a 5 volt DC signal supply voltage, dedicated ground back to the PCM to keep its' internal ground at the same baseline, then the signal. So the smaller the voltage, the higher the resistance issue becomes. So I keep dielectric grease handy and tubes everywhere. The best value is found in boat stores in the parts department. Mercruiser / Mercury sell these large 20 oz tubes for a reasonable price (Per Once) as the service manuals and common sense has a tech use it on every connector. Hell, I use it in my flashlights, batteries in my DMM...every where. Just a one thing. I am lucky to have electrical connector boxes with thousands of terminals, so I find the correct one and check for pin fit. The tension a pin "Feels" like when inserting or removing to test if it is damaged, loose, spread or just needs replaced. Many purchase new ACDelco knock sensor harnesses as they are not too expensive regarding what it take once you are in there. ASE Master tech since 78 / Retired Good video, nice clear easy to hear. Thumbs up! Thanks.

[@dennisgood2108]

Brian,I washed my engine for the first time on a 99 using the water hose and some 409 and sure enough a day later i get the code for bad knock sensors.There is no way for the water to evaporate or does it short out the sensors and ruin them.I have 125,000 miles and the only owner.Thanks for the video

[@bradnimbus4836]

I know I'm going to have to watch this one 3 or 4 times lol. So much information! Wanna know how much I love your videos Brian? I waited till today to watch this one because its my day off and I could really sit back, chill and be learned. "Knock sensor" is a new word for me and I've been trying to see if my car has one. This leads me to this: I got my dream car! I traded the Cavalier for a 1987 Ltd Crown Victoria with a 351w (yay!) It's a fine machine with a load of power but not without its flaws. When I got the car I knew it needed maintenance but I wanted to grandpa drive it a bit to figure out what I needed to boost it to 80's Hulk Hogan level. I was on a free highway and a Dodge Stealth with the most obnoxious exhaust ever came up along side of me kept pace staring at me with a grin and almost blew my ears off as he stepped on it. The only thing I could hear was my ego telling me to catch up to that guy and fill his car with exhaust from a 30 year old cat-less 351w (not out of anger, just immaturity) I chase him down pretty quick and we have a bit of fun before I hit my turn off and head for home. Suddenly my spidey sense goes off and I get that feeling to pull over and check under my hood. Not only was there a line of fluid behind my car but as I popped the hood there was a fountain of coolant spraying out of one of the hoses. Another more sinister leak was a seep from both the thermostat housing and the side of the intake that connects to the housing. I head straight for home and give my car a big hug before heading up stairs to my bedroom to curl up into a ball for two days...... Now that I'm feeling a little more brave I've been in contact with the local performance shop and we'll be ordering parts today. I was planning on replacing the dusty old 2 barrel carb with a 4 barrel and since the gasket for my intake is now toast I figured now is as good of a time as any to upgrade/repair. I am having struggles though. For one, there's so many differing opinions. On a forum I frequent I was told that I would have to completely replace my ignition system to upgrade the carb, the very next comment told me I wouldn't need to. I was also told that since I'd be losing the "?computer?" I'd cause detonation because the knock sensor wouldn't function so a vac advance would be necessary. Again another commenter stated that my car doesn't have a knock sensor which led to an argument lol. I'm 99.99% sure there is a vac advance already sitting in front of my distributor. Since that's there it's a good chance there wouldn't be a knock sensor correct? It's so frustrating because I'm doing this on my own and I can't find a solid source of information for my vehicle. I bought a Haynes manual that quickly became rags and toilet paper after reading through and realizing it has NOTHING for my specific car. As a guy who knows no trustworthy mechanics (other than yourself) how can I find exact information for my car? I feel silly not being able to find the knock sensor in my car. Sorry for the pile of text Brian, thank you for recording your work for us. ~Brad

[@rasr666]

lol.

[@robert-bg9pf]

You have a 1987 car.... I highly doubt it has a knock sensor, or any computer for that matter!! Being straight carbureted almost certain that you have no computer at all. If it was TBI (Throttle Body Injection) it would have some sensors and a computer, but with a true Carburetor, only enough sensors for the guages on the dash.

[@mv5596]

Nice story

[@stephanieeileen8490]

Would you recommend replacing the wiring harness?

[@auxpowerunit]

Brian, great video as always. I just changed the knock sensors on my 2003 Hummer H2. It was quite tough because I don't have an overhead creeper. (The H2 has a front-hinged hood which gets in the way of any front access.) Both of my sensors were severely rusted. I'm trying an experiment this time. Instead of using RTV to build a dam around the wire caps, I used RTV between each cap and the rim of the hole. I'll let you know how that works out in a few months.

[@beautifulwifepatrickpuppie284]

Nice work putting this video together. You give information which helps with installation and the extraction of various parts to get the job done. Really lots of great tips, tool sizes ect. Thanks Patrick in NJ

[@briansmobile1]

Thank you!

[@willypicon336]

Thank you for the video I am going for around 2 I use cheap sensors and harness I won't be doing that this time you are very thorough without being overly so very good job thank you

[@kylearaiza8808]

Of course I come accross this when I was doing the job not before I ordered the parts. Just installed the Dorman ones with their wire harness. Greta hopefully it lasts. Don’t really want to do that again until I have to do lifters and pull the heads.

[@dslsdad1]

Damn. I just replaced the sensors on my Tahoe but I didn't remove the rear foam pad on the intake. Hopefully they'll last another 250000 miles before they go bad again. Nice video bro.

[@332ARA]

Question: I've seen others run a bead of silicone around the seals. Is there a reason you wouldn't do this as opposed to an open ended channel?

[@andycory908]

Glad I found your channel and was happy to sign up and share your channel with all my trucking buddies

[@mister0ldschool]

Thank you for doing this video! I'll be doing this same job pretty soon, its nice to see the details of how to do it.

[@Stucknarutt]

Thanks brother ! Good job and detail. I've had this to do on my 04 GMC Sierra for two years and have been putting it off. Inspection due again and I'm in a bind !! Gonna start ordering the parts and get prepped up for it now.

[@rafaelbonilla3759]

this will be my second time, I guess I should go with AC knock sensors...my first time I was smart and use silicone, and new harness. but now I don't know that's the problem! anyway thanks for the video, and wish me luck.

[@analisiaescobar7422]

I've had 2 knock sensors replaced on 03 chevy tahoe within a few weeks from each other. I bought aftermarket Dorman off of rockauto I'm now waiting for the ac Delco to come in. What's weird is that my 1st knock sensor I replaced the front was rusted out and it had only been in my truck for 2 weeks before I could replace it with another one. This 2nd Dorman brand also has the codes coming on again P0327 and P0332.

[@reginaldbyrd8073]

Should you use dyalectric compound or anti-seize compound on the threads of the knock sensors?

[@gitsnshiggles]

Good video. that rust is a problem. Here's the takeaways. pay the money for AC delco parts. change both sensors. change the harness. remove the stupid foam. Might as well replace your evap purge canister, intake gaskets, intake bolts and PCV hose while you're in there. You might have to take that engine valley cover off to safely and properly clean the rust out and not get debris into engine bay. Torque on sensors is 15 inch pounds. torque on intake bolts 44 inch first round, 85 inch second round.

[@Ace-44]

15 ft lbs not inch on sensors

[@davidharshaw4048]

i think your videos are awesome. Honestly, i can follow your lead step by step which is a good thing because I am a do it myself kinda girl. Thank you !!

[@johnnymoran180]

Why remove the throttle body? I just did the lifter release procedure on a 07 Suburban, and the intake came off with the throttle body still attached...

[@roselima1741]

Thank you, thank you! Im right the middle of this i found your at just the right time. Cheers

[@TexasRigour]

Informative video thank you very much. I replaced my knock sensor two years ago. Had to replace them again bank 1 was rusty and bank 2 sensor looked brand new. Anyone else have this issue ?

[@BrandonArcadiaDrums]

Thank you so much for this video! I did however break my evap tube 😂 in the process. I did remove the foam from the back of the intake manifold.

[@jimwagner6911]

What year is this truck. makes a big difference.

[@JuanGomez-ih3zn]

I put branNew sensors Adelco on my 2005 chevy silverado New wires New gasckets I clean verrywell also but the light come on gone and come back can u help me??? what can be

[@cesarmuniz242]

Aside from your check engine light coming on were there any other signs or symptoms that led you to believe it was the knock sensors?

[@Klemeq]

I'm going to be tackling this soon on a 2001 Chevy with the 5.3. But it's going to be extensive. I'm replacing intake manifold gasket, knock sensors and harness, and the oil pressure sending unit. And while the intake is off the idle air valve controller is going to get cleaned up.

[@scott06z71]

Did you use an AC Delco harness for the knock sensors? I heard you say use the AC Delco brand knock sensors.

[@breakitfixit5102]

where did you get your work table you lay on while you where doing the work?

[@StephenDanielAddeo]

I have had serious issues with the knock sensors I got from Autozone. I am so meticulous and yet still have a code for the sensors. I sealed up the covers, tested all the wiring, and even used a little dielectric grease on the connectors. Its really aggravating when you do a job right and have to re-do it because of shit parts.

[@terrancegrant1664]

Thanks for the long vid, Brian; I enjoy them.

[@briansmobile1]

Terrance Grant Thanks for the encouragement Terrance- it's not profitable and takes a lot more time, but it's what I would want to see too.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

briansmobile1 I suspected so. I thank you all the more.

[@mikethemechanic59]

Great video very informative thnx! I have an 0332 that has came back twice so..worse case I'm going in. Also I appreciate you being real about the whole operation

[@handyman6858]

Thanks a bunch, great video and I'm on my 2nd round. I also went with ac delco knock sensors. love my 2000 chevy 5.3 vortec and I've found it likes OE parts . Thanks for the refresher course. Ken in Boise, ID

[@thechosen5805]

Just curious on why you didn't replace the valley cover gasket while you were in there?

[@cliffordwoolridgejr.5191]

Been down the same road as you getting ready to do third time not happy with reruns

[@williamkolwyck9998]

Nice job. My 2003 Yukon has a misfire on #8 plus it's showing a code for knock sensor #2 low voltage or something to that effect. And it's showing a code for evap control sensor. I'm about to tackle the issue's. I paid 1500.00 buck's for the truck it has just over two hundred thousand miles. It runs really well considering the misfire. Wish me luck. Lol

[@drewcherry2794]

You rock balls man! Saved me alot of steps and questions

[@ahill7099]

What a sweet body holder . Always wonder if I could find something to lay on too since my truck is taller then me lol

[@peteembry5000]

Brian, I love you more than my brand new magnet extension. Thank you for this vid!

[@briansmobile1]

Thanks Pete! I feel the love and right back at ya!

[@saulramirez5362]

Great Video on replacing the knock sensor. Getting ready to do mine as I have a PO332, PO420 and PO430 on my 99 Silverado. Hoping that by changing both sensors the engine light will go off and I wont have to change the catalyst converters. Please share your thought with me would greatly appreciate it. Another thing I'm a bit confused with is why not just seal all the way around with the sealant instead of half moon around the knock sensor isn't there more of a possibility that water could somehow back its way in thru the opening? just a thought.

[@briansmobile1]

+Saul Ramirez The engine it tipped up in the front. Plus it gets warm enough to evaporate the water out. It just needs a opening to flow out.

[@saulramirez5362]

I realized that when I took off the intake manifold on my Silverado. Should have listen to you and bought dealer items. would have saved me a lot of time and money.. You have any videos on what to check for when you don't feel full power on a Silverado I have no misfires or codes but just doesn't feel like I have full power on take off. . I also have a bit of drop in idle when in park not much but I can feel it. Thanks for your video really help me.

[@davidlivezey9798]

Dude I do lots of mechanic work and now suffer from Cervical nerve damage even after surgery..... I need to know what that stand support is called and where to buy one...Thanks for the Awesome Videos.

[@davidlivezey9798]

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QGXSODA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@dalebourgeois9851]

Thankyou for the video changing knocks! What was the part number for your knock sensors? I looked on line and U saw different part numbers. What would be the correct number? Thankyou Again

[@TadashiYasahiro]

Thanks for the video bro, got an 05 avalanche that needs this done to it. Thanks for the torque specs as well.

[@robertconklin502]

what kind of rtv? high temp or just the normal permatex black rtv? great video, im about to do this job. thanks

[@matthewcarlson5137]

Brian I just did all this work the other day, with parts from 1a auto. Took the family out for a drive and now the knock sensor light is back on. Also the maf sensor light is on.....that wasn't on before. The engine makes this horrible tapping sound at high idle. I'm just now finding this video. Are you telling me I've got to redo the job with AC Delco sensors and throw away the 1a auto?? What would you suggest about the other issues?? I was informed the tapping is an issue with the 2000 Chevy engine, but I don't know.

[@luxbalthazar7646]

A lot of Chevy engines have a tapping noise. It's piston slap. Nothing to be concerned with.

[@2nickles647]

​@@luxbalthazar7646Never heard of Piston slap on a 5.3 or 4.8 Chevy. Tapping noises come from the worn out valve rocker arms and lifters.

[@MNicehole]

always put a new wire harness on also, because the connections is what goes bad. that's why U are replacing them again, need harness.

[@jesseruiz4367]

based on where the sensors are located doesn't seem like u can test them so basically if u get the code on these GM 5.3 should u just replace them and the harness?

[@P00RKN00W]

Where can you buy that table thing that you lay your body on to work on the engine? I need one of those so my back doesn’t hurt every time

[@martech360]

Doing mine tomorrow...thx for the detailed vid! Wish me luck!

[@patbancroft6897]

Super job on the Video, thanks Brian. Saved me a ton of time.