Chevy SSR - Door Latch Overview

[@RetroCarGuy530]

I've been working on getting door latch replaced in a friend's Chevy SSR. I ran into some problems with the replacement door latch, so I decided to create a video showing how the door latch works in the Chevy SSR. ⏲ Video Sections ⏲ 00:00 - Intro 00:25 - Operational Demo 05:34 - Door Latch Connections 16:38 - Upper Door Latch Switch 19:50 - Wrap Up

[@treds8497]

Nice video. I have a problem with my fob not unlocking the doors and I get an alarm. The fob locks ok, but when unlocking, the doors stay locked. Does this have anything to do with the door latch assembly? Thanks in advance.

[@RetroCarGuy530]

Do the door locks lock and unlock properly when you press the center console button? This will see if a different input into the system will cause the door locks to work in both directions. If the FOBs and the center console button fail to cause the door locks to unlock, you might want to check two relays for the door locks. In the rear fuse box (on the passenger side of the center console), there are two relays for the door locks. Relay 18 is the "LOCK" relay and Relay 24 is the "UNLOCK" relay. There's also a 10 amp fuse in socket #21 as well. Those relays and fuse are involved in the locking/unlocking when both doors are being locked/unlocked at the same time. When you single press the key fob unlock, only the driver's door lock is unlocked. This requires a separate fuses and a separate relay to accomplish this functionality. There's 10 amp fuse is in the rear fuse box again labeled as DDM in socket #10. There appears to be another 10 amp fuse for this driver's door only unlock feature at that's in fuse socket #36. The "Driver Door Unlock Relay" is located in another area in the roof storage compartment. There's a plastic box in the front of that compartment and the top cover has two clips and four 10 mm nuts that hold it on. You have to put the roof down enough to open the tonneau cover but not let it close again to access this area. On the driver's side / top end of the plastic box is a "Rear Relay" block. Under that plastic cover is this additional "Driver Door Unlock Relay". If you can press the FOB once and get the driver's door to unlock, then the relay in the rear roof area and its fuses are ok. If you double press the unlock button on the FOB to get both doors to unlock (or press the center console button to unlock the doors) and they don't then the rear fuse box fuses / relays are used for that mode of operation. You may want to take off a door panel and check the two wires that go to the door lock actuator in the door latch to see if it gets 12-volts/ground when a lock or unlock request is made. The 12-volts / ground will swap wires based on the request being lock or unlock to make the lock motor run in the required direction to get the lock to lock or unlock.

[@georgekhoranoff4803]

Windows won't index after engine has run. If I slightely lower & raise a window the said window will index.i had replaced driver door lock & window indexing was ok until recent ally this new problem appeared.

[@RetroCarGuy530]

Usually the window will not get indexed downward when you open the door if the window glass is not in the fully up position. If you have not already performed the window re-indexing learn procedure, I would suggest that as the next thing to try. I have a video showing how to have the roof door module (RDM) relearn the upper and lower most travel positions for each door window. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eH6mlJ2naNCYftk

[@tfodthogtmfof7644]

Looks like I get to pull my door apart at least one more time.

[@RetroCarGuy530]

I hope the video presented the info in a way that was helpful if you're trying to track down a problem with your SSR's door latches. Normally, the upper door latch switch assembly is not something you can gain access to without prying apart some plastic pieces (black upper plastic piece where geared contact shaft goes though and the upper white plastic. Since I was working with one that had been recently refurbished (but still had problems), I was able to "easily" open up that switch assembly for the video.