Servicing a Kodak Retinette IA camera, part 02

[@mnragnar]

Here Chris demonstrates one of my greatest fears when working on cameras. (Besides loosing those never-to-be-seen-again screws and springs that quickly take flight.) Seized screws! I'm impressed how patient Chris was with that stubborn screw and somehow managed to pull the screws remains out without making a horrible mess of the aluminum. I recall having more than a few instances where I had to glue replacement screws into completely buggered up screw holes. I suppose all that aluminum corrosion should be a big hint of things-to-come. :-) I appreciate the cleaning hints, Chris! Especially the details of ultrasonic cleaner techniques. I'd have never thought of floating solvent filled containers in the ultrasonic cleaner tank. Brilliant! Just when I thought there was nothing new to learn after watching hundreds of hours of Chris' videos, Chris just keeps coming up with new surprises for us all. Thank you for continuing our education Chris, even in your "retirement" years. Glenn

[@petervanorsouw]

Hi Chris, I've used Neatsfoot Oil to soften and restore Leatherettes and rubber. Thanks again for your continued support for film cameras 📷 👍

[@arekguinness2342]

This skinning is always very suspenseful in your videos. Will it succeed or not. Nice tutorial 👍

[@MASI_forging]

Nice video. 🙂🙂

[@mnragnar]

Hmmm... Painters' Wax & Grease Remover. I've been stumped on the best method to clean the horrible paraffin buildup on my vintage Agfa and Japanese rangefinders and leaf shutter SLR's. (never had that problem in a Retina) It's been taking me hours with toothpicks and naphtha and sometimes multiple sessions of greasing and degreasing until all that nasty green paraffin is finally removed. I suppose if the helicoid gear is bare aluminum or brass, I could use this your technique with painters' wax and grease remover in the ultrasonic on those stubborn Agfa and Japanese helicoids. Or do you have other recommendations for those helicoids with heavy paraffin buildup? Glenn

[@ChrisSherlock]

G'day Glenn, That hardened grease is always difficult. I don't think there is any way to get it out of the threads that doesn't involve scraping it away with wooden toothpicks or the like. For bare metal components you could try lacquer thinners, but best do that outside.

[@neotil]

I had a helicoid that was entirely seized, not able to move with any amount of force. I soaked it in acetone for about a week, which is only possible if you've got everything disassembled down to the metal of course. After soaking it, the helicoid came apart without any issues. It's super smooth now with some new grease!

[@mnragnar]

@@neotil The trouble that keeps plaguing me is a HEAVY buildup of stubborn paraffin on some specific camera brand helicoids where the solvents do a great job of loosening up the mechanics for about 24-48 hours which gives me the great confidence of a "win" and then I proceed to re-lubricate the "clean" mechanics, reassemble and marvel at the new life of the rescue, only to pickup that "completed" rescue a week later to find the helicoid "stiff" again. (Which always works loose with exercise.) I've found that if I don't get ALL of that old wax out of the tightest corners of the helicoids, that miserable paraffin always manages to find its way through the fresh lubricant and ruin that "new" feel of the rescue. I've never had that scenario with a Retina, but anything from Agfa or Japan of this time frame seems to have used a helicoid grease formula that was particularly nasty after 70 years of age. From Chris' feedback, it sounds like there's no escape from the committed, mechanical work of scraping that hard buildup from all the internal corners of those helicoid threads in those problematic situations. Chris' struggle with that single screw is more confirmation that sometimes these rescues require patience and serious commitment. I love watching Chris at work here as he obviously shares a similar passion for these "recues" as I do and his viewership shows that there are many more of us around the world who do as well. Thank you for the feedback Leonhard, as it sounds like you've found similar rescues and solutions as I have. Glenn (fellow Chris Sherlock Fan Club member)

[@neotil]

@@mnragnar Yes! My camera was also and old Japanese one, but acetone really worked wonders. Retina helicoids have always been pretty easy to clean up as you've said. Chris' videos are really a joy to watch and you always learn something new. I hope to one day know at least half as much as Chris does about cameras!