Circular Saw Crosscut & Rip Jig || Free Plan

Not everyone has a table saw and miter saw, and even if you do, this handy circular saw crosscut and rip station will help you do some of the things a table saw and miter saw will.
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[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Get the Free plan: www.outoftheww.com/project-plans Stick around for the overly dramatic montage at the end to see it in action!

[@JoshFlowers1]

On behalf of all weekend woodworkers, thank you for leaving in the mistakes and the commentary that all of us have but doubt that any KZbinr would have.

[@jflogel]

I came to the comments to say the same thing. How many times have we forgotten to measure twice, cut once, and immediately regretted it!

[@HB-CL-TX]

thanks for the design, its nice and simple. I would probably just delete the fence all together and make my blade gap big enough so I could see my board that I am cutting clearly from the top (like a chop saw), I would also elevate the saw track as high as the blade allows me to cut a 2" thick material if I need to (at least a 2x4 or 6).

[@Ritalie]

This is truly beautiful. I've decided that the best thing about a crosscut jig is that it's inherently 1000 million times safer than a tablesaw, with almost no safety risk at all with basic crosscuts. On a table saw, or radial arm saw, the blade faces upwards, is exposed, and has no retractable guard. Circular saws have a strong retractable guard that only exposes the blade once the saw is making a cut.

[@darodes]

I’ve watched probably 20 of builds similar to this to find one that really stands out and this is probably my favorite design so far

[@Garanon5]

I like the unfiltered footage of your mistakes, the humor you've added, and the terminology that is newbie friendly. I knew what "square" meant, but it's great that you explained what most people would overlook. All this AND free plans?! I can't wait for your channel to get the recognition it deserves!

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Very kind of you...thanks so much!

[@placitas52]

Not only sharing your wood working skill, but I know how hard it is to make a good video. Must be pretty good to watch to the end. Thanks.

[@namgorf2001]

I appreciate that you're willing to show your screwups that we all also have instead of just "now that we cut that piece perfectly" like a lot of channels do.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

There are plenty to show!

[@WorkshopOfHorrors]

I love jigs, you can never have enough of them. I share my workshop with a car, so a jig like this means you can do some jobs without having to back the car out of the garage and put the table saw out. Nice work!

[@amishaaiyer5516]

my partner loves watching ur videos . in fact thats what he does ALL the time ..EVERY ONE of them !!! Thank u for the free plans. u have provided the motivation for him to rekindle his hobby after 40 years!

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I love hearing this! Thanks for sharing this and making my day!

[@brettwilson9181]

Thanks for leaving the mistakes in. We learn a lot from them too. It also makes me feel a little more normal.

[@talleysuehohlfeld3959]

I'm glad to see directions for how to make this using only the circular saw itself. and it's interesting to see how you could rip a piece of wood with the circular saw when it's too narrow to clamp.. I made a ripping jig for a circular saw which is just a very long crosscut jig (big enough for a 24" board), but I use wedges at one end to hold the narrow board under the slide. To keep the board from slipping sideways as the wedges go in, I position it, then clamp a block of wood snug on each side to keep the board in position. Then I slide a pair of wedges in (and a spacer board if necessary) until the board I'm cutting is snug. Triple check the distance at each end of the board, pegging off the edge of the slide. It's also interesting to me that you put the board at the far side of the jig; I've seen ones with the jig at the near side, which of course means you must clamp so it doesn't slide away from the saw. I'm going to have to go look at all the other videos I saw earlier.

[@lesblack413]

One problem I see is that the forward rail should have a small chamfer on the bottom edge that the board butts up against so that sawdust doesn't affect the alignment to square. I never worried out it until the day it happened to me. Since then I always plane this chamfer and have had no problems since. Good video production, thanks.

[@larrycearlock2320]

Grove a channel on top of the rails and put a tape measure in it, will help to ,make sure your square each time. This is good shop addition-Thank you looking forward for more ideas.

[@angelchiriboga3904]

using a tailor's tape glued and shellacked would work too. could even inlay it. two triangle blocks on the outside of the fence would alose do the trick.

[@PaganWizard]

3:20 Another option for you to explore would be to cut a scrap piece of wood to the exact length of the distance required between your front and rear fences. Secure one of the fences so it's flush with the edge of the plywood, then use your piece of "scrap" to make your two fences as close to parallel as possible. 19:30 To avoid this issue, cut the t-track to length, minus the length of a t-nut. This will allow you the ability to add, or remove clamps, and other hardware as needed for the life of the jig.

[@karlchwe9644]

The router tone at 2:50 matches the music soundtrack. (lifts glass a la DiCaprio) Well done, brother.

[@City-Hiker]

A saw guide with only wood is cheap, but when you add T track, it will become much more expensive. You can add or remove ruler, lock stoppers, clamps, and protractor to the T track, so you don’t need a piece of popup bar for 45 and 90 degree angle. Instead, you can adjust the lock stopper or protector for angle cut.

[@MrRustymorris]

Hello Fellow Wood Worker! I applaud you because not only do you explain well. You are human. A mistake was made and not edited out. Great Job & Project

[@jimd9360]

This is an absolutely killer piece of gear! A guy I used to know built pool tables with a similar rig and a circular saw. He sold them to pool halls, and at least one to a very fussy player of my acquaintance, and he LOVES it. If you can make a perfect pool table, you can make an awful lot of other things, to..

[@ewoien]

Thank you for this great contribution. Why not glue down a ruler on the top of both sides, so you see the difference as you adjust?

[@EggyOrphan]

Amazing video! love how you stuck with what you making the jig for and did not make a jig using miter saws and table saws that most people don't have:) All other videos say simple jigs for common tools yet use uncommon power tools XD Thank You!!!!!

[@brianallemang2187]

Best video I've seen in years for this jig. Thank you for your free plans and sharing. Very much appreciated!

[@genelomas332]

A couple of blocks glued to the away side of the adjustable fence, and fitting snug to the front and back fixed fence will increase the contact length of the fence, and all but eliminate the racking you have.. Also the blue angle clamps are fine for most instances, but some cheap right angle shelf brackets (modified accordingly to fit the task and installed pointing down) could also be used to pin a workpiece close to the fence.. Would also suggest taking a half inch off one end of the T-track in the adjustable fence to allow the easy removal of T-bolts/clamps..

[@mmhsn07]

Until now I have seen your video 10 times to understand all the steps and have not started making it yet --- lol. I think by the time I finishing making it I would have watched it may be 20 times🤣. The main reason I choose your design over others is because you gave free plan that makes its easy to make. GOOD JOB

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

😂. 👍

[@EmmaGoodwinGeek]

Thanks for showing errors as well as providing the plans for free. Good human!

[@declanwilson8864]

I really liked the fact that you show what worked, why it worked and why it didn't and provided a suggested alternate fix for the problem. Great job. Well done.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Thanks!

[@randolphstills4091]

very good jig save a lot of time and cuts down having to bring out a mitersaw for small cuts thank you

[@davidholmes3776]

This is one of the best crosscut jig designs I’ve seen but I do worry about visablity - might try using angle iron for the slide.

[@jackmaher4466]

I had a kickback with a table saw and will not use one anymore. This is great for me. Thank you.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I had the same experience when I was starting out...it can be pretty scary. All power tools are dangerous, but beginners have no business with a table saw.

[@devilsadvocate2656]

Regards the racking of the fence... I used to use a Triton saw table with a similar issue (actually each end referenced independent of the other). My solution was to build a story stick with a movable slide. That way I could independently reference each end from the edge of the the saw table. Of course I've long since graduated to a proper saw table so this fix is a thing of the past but it got me through many a project.

[@SteveJones-dr9lz]

What about using drawer guides? I see your hold down as basically a drawer. AND drawer guides prevent the drawer from racking. Just a thought. Hey great build. Thanks for your time and for sharing your talent/creation. Keep the faith.

[@gergemall]

Amazing restoration of the table saw. Love the tutorials.❤

[@michaelrobinson9643]

THanks for the build. Framing squares aren't always square... need to check and calibrate it :) (can adjust its angle with a punch)

[@placitas52]

Enjoyed your video and appreciate your efforts. Still chuckling over " that was educational". I'm always adjusting design for something I missed.

[@MrBonners]

always like looking for double duty jig concept ideas, for small shop. one accurately made prototype makes it automatic for trick out ideas to play with. Forward T track could be a T square head French cleat edge runner thing, no racking . drill hole in end to slip in/out buried track. plenty of do-dads and thingies can be mounted on the fence ideas to play with. Little longer circular saw sled to allow blade to clear, only cutting ply and small stock could down size the saw and dedicate it to the sled. short landing extension for beginning the saw motion. Plenty to play with.

[@justinphilpott]

I like it! Good video... nice to see something that isn't silent perfection but an evolving idea that already awesome

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Love that you provide free plans for people to make these jigs and helpful tools and the guide is awesome thanks Tommy

[@Billbo-kz9fd]

Hi, fascinating build and I'll certainly try it myself. One idea to keep the rip fence parallel would be to make the end blocks say 3 inches long, this would prevent the "cross tracking". Keep up the good work.

[@giorgio84]

I've watched this video several times over few months. I love the jokes, especially at 13:53 it makes me laugh every time. Thank you for informative video, nice plans and with a good humor.

[@shanesmaineshop]

I love my table saws but you right where there's a will there's a way. nice project.

[@jusgibs]

Don’t you kind of defeat the pupose by having your keeper piece on the right side of the saw like your first 2-foot cut when using the guide? You have to compensate your measurement for the blade thickness.

[@diyhacksandmore2644]

I just read Ryan's fix on the rip fence. Another quick method would be get a couple of small metal rulers from Harbor Freight and cut a groove on the top and bottom fence and screw them in, this way you won't have to measure anything but line up the fence according to the ruler marks.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Great idea...I thought about putting one on the front fence to do quick measurements but it would be even better to have one at each end

[@wordup897]

@@OutoftheWoodwork 90 degree extensions on each end of the fence would prevent racking.

[@OmnieStar]

You could also Just add marks on top of where the slide sits on each side so that you can just line up the slide with those. There are a lot of ways to "fix" that but really its up to the user I think. Great video btw !!

[@TheStanford01]

You could use a dovetail joint on the ends of the fence. That way when you tighten the clamping bolts you are pulling against the strength of the joint.

[@imtiaz5748]

You have a new subscriber.. I like the way you explain and do things and of course I love that you include the out-takes. Thanks Dude!

[@DarkTubeToo]

I have a table saw, circular saw and a track saw. Nonetheless this is phenomenal and I can use a cutting station. I can bring this to a project and not have to wait to go back to the shop to cut small pieces. Sometimes I end up cutting oversized pieces and have to either route or sand down to get the proper fit. This can cut time. Thank you. FYI You can also fit this with speed blocks. Sometimes all you need to cut is small pieces that doesn't need to reference square to the entire length of the station. Remove the fence and make some speed blocks you can attach to the t-track, similar to a miter saw station.

[@kedcs1]

Lots of lessons here in building from scratch. Kudo's for taking an existing tool and making it multitask! For accuracy, I still think a table saw is the ticket. I think I'd find an older one that needed a little restoration that could be had for $75 or $100. A little work cleaning things up can get some of these older (and decent quality) table saws working great and is worth the effort. Some of the older stuff is better quality than mid quality new.

[@talleysuehohlfeld3959]

some of us don't have a place to put a table saw--but we can put a jig somewhere!

[@Momoka7]

I keep thinking how important a Table Saw is. Honestly not that much. If you mainly build Office Furniture and work with Melamine covered Particle Board like I did, you use mostly a Plate Saw to cut each piece into size and then use a Biscuit Joiner to create the connections. In a home workshop setup, you are allot better served with a good Track Saw which helps you in combo with a big working table to break down sheet plywood plates. Yeah you can do allot cuts on a table saw... like the ones for connections you see allot done here on KZbin Woodworking channels... however often times that is not the most economical way to connect wood. It might be a very sturdy connection... but another one would have served as good. And a Table Saw can be pretty dangerous too.... especially in untrained hands. Some jig like this is perfect for any cut that might be pretty risky to do on a Table Saw. And you could also work it into a 45degree one.

[@ljose007]

Awesome! Extremely easy-to-follow presentation.

[@MattWhiteMattWPBS]

Cheers man, in the UK, got the plans and going to give this a go! Only thing that'd be easier would be to stick the metric on the plans too.

[@lesblack413]

Instead of using an adjustable fence, why not sink a number of "T" nuts into the baseboard and tighten down to them with a knob and bracket like the ones used here. If I may say so also, I think one flaw in this design is that the clearance between the saw slide and the board allows chip-out/tear-out on the top surface, especially if cutting melamine or cross grain ply. Cheers...

[@togatech1111]

Great video and nice to see someone helping others with free plans. Thanks 👍

[@user-ec8gu1rj8h]

Thanks for the time and effort you put in this video it was really awesome and explain a lot of details etc and thanks for the free plans !

[@Mirpurmad]

I am coming back to my DIY hobby I started 2 years ago

[@shed176]

These type of jigs are great when money & space are at a premium. Thanks 👍

[@gustavosalinas9532]

Thanks a lot for sharing your job. I really liked how it was finished. Greetings from Mendoza, Argentina

[@anthonyjohn3976]

Fabulous I can't wait to start work. Thanks

[@mec912]

Here I am, focusing on the project steps, getting ready to take note and maybe customize to fit my needs... and I hear the muzak version of "We Got The Funk" in the background? Thank you, Tommy. LOL

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

😂 It sounds like it, but that would definitely get me a copy write strike

[@josemariamoralesolivar2262]

Será posible reproducir los vídeos en idioma español?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

es posible en el futuro

[@thomascostello5780]

thx for the free plans Tommy -- will let you know how it goes

[@arnoldbernela304]

Superbe projet, réalisé avec soins et qualités des matériaux employés. GOOD JOB!

[@stevebutler7346]

Hi Tommy Fantastic Videos Very Good Precise Explanations. THANK YOU Good to see someone else cutting wood the wrong sizes As I Do Frequently STAY SAFE Best Wishes From the UK Steve B

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Thanks 👍

[@CasualHobbyist]

Wonderful design and execution! I wonder if this would still work well if it's built taler to take more advantage of the saw's depth of cut? Right now the cut height is 2" max I believe, which can be limiting

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Thanks! Yes, you could absolutely make it taller. With a 2x2 fence you're limited to 1 1/2" of height. You could stack a 1x2 and add about 3/4" or, if you have a planer, plane something down to the thickness that will fit the depth of your saw.

[@tonyjackson5261]

Great timing I need to build a Crosscut Jig for my Circular Saw. My 1st one has a lot of mistakes. Also I'm not sure if it is really square. Thank you very much and hope you have a great new year.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

You too, Tony! Let me know how it turns out

[@glg3945]

You always provide concise detailed information and easy to follow directions. Thank you 😊. Peace and good fortune and good health to you and your family.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I always appreciate your encouraging comments!

[@glg3945]

@@OutoftheWoodwork 😀

[@georgevanvalkenburg2560]

Thank you for the plan. These are area gold mine for any wood worker. At 83, I really need safer and easier tools. By having these jigs, there should also be savings by reducing waste. Finaly please send me instructions where to send a gift to support your channel. . .

[@chuckiesweet]

excellent work mate, clearly explained and perfect for just the home stuff i want to do cheers

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

You are so informative tommy been digging your channel bro thanks for all the hard work and informational content

[@bobd.]

Modify the fence to be a T-square style like on a table saw. If necessary make it an 'L' style fence not a 'T' so the fence can be brought in closer to the blade.

[@amratalla8137]

Thank you for the plans

[@nathanbarajas9174]

This is really useful, thanks for the content 👍

[@mor8266]

Great video and great jig. Thanks!!

[@rogercourtney823]

Thank you for the plans much appreciated take care and stay safe

[@MrBonners]

see past the plans, plenty of opportunities to trick out.

[@xawerytrabka8813]

Educational!😁

[@terencefurlong1830]

Instead of t- channel what about using drawer slides, the have bearings and set mount points.

[@anikiace2253]

maybe u can replace the side rails to extension drawer rails to reduce the wobbling.

[@davidmuresan1735]

Do you like my "Parallel Guided Power Saw?" seen on you tube. Do you wish to join me to manufacture it. On the video you may see some pyramids I cut with my saw, which cannot be easily cut with another saw. The manufacturing company does not want my saw, so we have to start our company to make it.

[@carlhobbs1015]

Great video, really good explanations thank you for sharing your talents

[@aaronl2247]

Nice looking jig...you ever try running a bevel cut (angle the baseplate and saw blade, not the wood) on this?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I haven't but I think it would work fine.

[@angelchiriboga3904]

Thank you.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I like that t track looks very nice 👌

[@hansbachtold1966]

gr eat project and thanks for the free plan.

[@reaper060670]

great job man.. Really lke this idea

[@MK-jp1ey]

Amazing

[@eb9900]

Love this plan. I'm going to make it for my Dewalt & Ryobi cordless saws. and just a thought, have you thought of applying paste wax to the track for the saw? Would help it to slide easier. And possible the rip fence as well. Thank you for the plans, too. Great job

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Wax would work great!

[@TwinPhoenix666]

Tommy, I'm pretty sure we have the same circular saw. I think I have a better blade installed, though. I've been using a Spyder TCG combination blade. Eats through anything, keeps my edges smooth and, cuts without tearout.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I definitely need a new blade

[@xavierlevaux621]

Wonderful job! I downloaded the plans. But living in Europe, I wonder if anyone has translated the measurements to dimensions you can find here?

[@HowIDoThingsDIY]

This thing is great. Nice job.

[@roytelling6540]

the toggle clamps just replace the bolt with a longer one, don't need rubber feet just use think piece of scrap wood

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Great idea, Roy....I actually have longer bolt feet for my t track toggle clamps on the way!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Wonder if this will work with my truhvl cordless wormdrive skilsaw or my Milwaukee m18 worm style rear handle circular saw or even my dewalt 60v flexvolt circular saw

[@Nanomachinist]

Tommy you just saved me at least $500 on a table saw I don't have room for and would piss off my girlfriend. If you're ever in Pittsburgh, I owe you a drink.

[@MrAnesco1]

Great review

[@MrLeram12]

Thanks for the plans.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Lmfao at all the oopsies on the cut offs 🤣🤣🤔

[@samrotolo7303]

5:05 Got it First try!

[@alanmig1]

Great jig and explanation, thanks for the great video. If you wanted to make longer rip cuts than the 2ft base, can you modify this and build it longer between the front and back fences? Any safety issues with ripping longer pieces that way? Thanks

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Yeah, you can just make it longer. At some point the slide will sag, but it's fine until that point.

[@alanmig1]

@@OutoftheWoodwork Cheers, thanks

[@colrodrick8784]

I have done that. Why did it come out at that width I said.

[@themoderncoder]

Thanks for this video and I'm digging your channel. Making square crosscuts has been a bane of mine lately and I will definitely be building your design. Out of curiosity, with a 24in depth, can you rip or crosscut at max 24in boards, or are you limited somewhat by the blade itself? Living in a small NYC apartment, I'd be looking to make this as compact as possible for storage purposes (looking at potentially scaling this to 24in wide by 14in deep), but wondering how much cut capacity is lost with those dimensions.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

The base can be a larger (or smaller) dimension, I used 2x2 to make it as straight-forward as possible. I lose 1 1/2" on each end for the width of the fences and then add another 1/2" just for basic clearance....so, I've got roughly 21 1/2" of crosscut/rip width on a 2 ft x 2 ft base.

[@themoderncoder]

Got it. Appreciate you taking time to reply and calculate that out.

[@user-pi3ly4op3j]

awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@ryankolb2357]

a small metal L bracket would help square up the fence.....have it screwed in the fence, but floating freely on the other end (possibly what you were referring to using with a groove)

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

The that would be a much quicker way to achieve that...good idea

[@tonyjackson5261]

Where exactly would that metal L bracket go? Under the fence and brace against what the fence is riding on?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

What I pictured was attaching it to the side of the rip fence, on each side and in the front and back, where it presses against the front and back fences.....but it's not attached to the front and back fences. Is that what you were thinking, Ryan?

[@staceyball5228]

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[@staceyball5228]

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[@nealeunruh9409]

Any thoughts on other cheaper woods that could be used in this project? A 1 x 8 x 8 piece of red oak in canada at home depot costs over 60 bucks making thus a pricey project with everything else involved.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

You can even use construction grade lumber if you want to. I would try to find some more affordable hardwood as it will last longer and I find it more enjoyable to work with.