Clean&Lube Browning Gold 10 Gauge

Рет қаралды 734

Күн бұрын

A video on cleaning and lubing the Browning Gold 10 Gauge…
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Пікірлер: 24

@10Tenner3006 9 ай бұрын

If you are out in the field and need to take out the trigger group pin, use the action guide rod that is on the sleeve that goes around the magazine tube. I use the carrier press the spring follower to get the bolt out as well. I like shooters lube FP10 for my Gold. It is very thin lube for cold weather. One other cycling issue is junk gets inside the side the plates of the trigger group. I found the best way to reinstall the side plates is to do the right side plate first.

@avidwaterfowler7522 9 ай бұрын

I have a video form years ago going over the trigger group. I actually had to replace the disconnect or when I first got it. As for cleaning the buffer assembly inside the stock, that’s exactly why I replaced the oem unit with sure cycle. The sure cycle stays cleaner and doesn’t rust! I had rust in the stock unit the first couple weeks of running it.

@saltandpepper1963 8 ай бұрын

With countless complaints concerning browning gold 10s, so glad I bought a Remington sp10 years ago. I've never had any cycling issues with my sp10, even after several boxes ran through it. Cycles everything. Wish a gun company would start making the sp10 again or something similar to it. Used over under double is always an option too. Love my armsport 10ga, had briley thread it for chokes. Wonderful patterns with 32 inch barrels. Goose killer!

@avidwaterfowler7522 8 ай бұрын

This issues I was having was actually old high basewad Remington hulls primarily. I also changed the buffer which had some wear. I got away from the rem high basewad hulls and went back to my standard Remington low basewad hulls or cheddite. It’s running like a sewing machine again.

@tripplebeards3427 4 ай бұрын

I have bought three of them over the years. The stalker 30” version when it first came out, the light version of the stalker the first year it came out as well. I traded that one for the first year the National turkey edition came out. It’s been flawless since 95’ or 96’… don’t remember when I got it . Two years ago the plastic follower shattered. Replaced it and should have replaced the buffer as well because it just let loose.

@avidwaterfowler7522 4 ай бұрын

I’ve seen the buffers blow apart as well. Turns out my issue was actually old Remington high basewad hulls.

@tripplebeards3427 4 ай бұрын

@@avidwaterfowler7522 I'd give my left you know what for some hulls. Hard to find.

@tripplebeards3427 4 ай бұрын

I just tore it down to replace the buffer and found one of trigger guard attachment male fittings snapped off! Luckily Browning still had 11 left on hand for $56. I ordered an extra magazine follower for $5 as well. I’m sure I can figure out how to swap the trigger pats to the new housing.

@tripplebeards3427 4 ай бұрын

I also found some loose buffer and some grit in my magazine tube as well. Must have missed cleaning it last time around.

@mrsmith9079 9 ай бұрын

The Beretta group dont recommend the use of grease on automatics (saving the choke threads), as it can slow the action down too much as you mentioned. I use oil on my autos and I haven't encountered problems with cyling (yet). Graphite would be another good alternative, but probably better suited for drier, dustier environments.

@avidwaterfowler7522 9 ай бұрын

I have always used grease in the high west areas without issues in the past. But, this time I tried something different. I guess you live and you learn. I tested the gun today and it ran %100.

@BrockLowell 9 ай бұрын

If you continue to having ejection issues. Remove your stock to inspect and clean the drive rod spring. They can get pretty nasty fast depending on how hard you go in the mud and water. For instants i was retrieving a duck 🦆 and tripped over a submerged log and went down in about three feet of water. The water and sand drained into my receiver with the bolt forward and sand found it way into the drive rod spring that fast. A simple way to test if your drive rod spring has grit, sand, or contaminated with water. When your shot gun is complete disassembled then press down the drive rod receptacle in the rear of your receiver with your thumb. You’ll see a milky substance, or hear, and feel gritty sound. If that’s the case remove your butt pad and the main bolt, washer, and plate then your stock. It’s really easy then spray it out with bore or lube and clean till smooth and quiet. If you continue to have injection issues and no broken parts, look at replacing extractor spring then drive rod spring. The drive rod spring is over looked because out of sight out of mind. This extra step will have most auto loader’s running like new!

@avidwaterfowler7522 9 ай бұрын

I actually dropped it in Lake Erie when I first got it back in 2020 and the sand locked up the buffer you are referring to in the stock. I replaced it that year with a stainless steel version from Sure Cycle Systems. I took that apart and cleaned it as well, and it looked almost perfect. I tested the gun yesterday and had my buddy shoot it. The gun cycled 100%! I guess I’m going with the thick grease of being potentially a little dirty as the culprit.

@BrockLowell 9 ай бұрын

@@avidwaterfowler7522 It’s funny I see guys us all kinda of lube on fire arms that aren’t in the manufacturers manual. Heck I got a buddy that use red axe grease and I us CLP doesn’t surprise me you never re-searched what the manufacturer suggested to us in hot and cold conditions because I don’t either. Browning refers to the drive rod spring as recoil spring inner and outer two parts the buffer interfaces. The buffer in browning parts manual is part #15 out of a 100 parts that make up the browning gold light and could easily be confused with the whole assembly as the buffer but that not how it broke down in browning parts list. Did you buy a whole stainless steel “buffer assembly” from browning or after market? Your piston tube looks like stainless steel part and that’s why browning heads and shoulders above the rest. Normally that’s plastic these days!

@avidwaterfowler7522 9 ай бұрын

@@BrockLowell it’s not that I never researched per say, I do what I think is best. I have been using the same CLP and grease for many years on all guns in the same fashion with no issues. Grease is far superior for metal in metal contact, that’s why I use it lightly on high wear areas. As for the Recoil Drive rod, I don’t really care for what browning calls it. It literally provides the same functionality as an AR15 buffer tube assembly which is why I refer to it that way. I ditched the factory “drive rod” assembly and went aftermarket with a stainless steel system. Sure Cycle Systems makes it. The factory system rusts very quickly if you hunt in all kinds of weather like I do. The actual urethane buffer that the bolt hits during cycling was in like new condition.

@BrockLowell 9 ай бұрын

That’s great to know due to my interest in buying browning god light 10ga for goose hunting. “Drive rod” comes from my years of working on .50 cal machine guns made by FN Herstal that owns Browning.

@10Tenner3006 9 ай бұрын

I have installed Surecycle in all my Gold 10’s. No more rust, and easy to take apart to clean the spring. No roll pins to take out. I have had the double springs get stuck together and not cycle on the factory recoil springs.

@vandeusenps 9 ай бұрын

I have the same gun, just different camo…never thought of using the lifter for reinstalling the bolt, thanks for the tip! Looking forward to see if you get better cycling at the range!

@avidwaterfowler7522 9 ай бұрын

Tested the gun today and it ran 100 percent. I think the grease was the culprit.

@vandeusenps 9 ай бұрын

Good to here! I’ve only used Hornady one shot lube and cleaner on mine, so far no issues, but I likely don’t shoot it anywhere close to as much as you do.

@billymacneil3839 8 ай бұрын

I've been shooting and reloading a gold 10 ga since 07 all i use is clp alot of the ejection issues i have are due to hull length especially rem hulls those olive green ones are real long.They cause most of my issues that and ya got to keep it clean i find the shells stretch or the base separates after a couple of reloads.

@avidwaterfowler7522 8 ай бұрын

I have never had issues with the gun cycling once I resolved the issues from the factory about 4 years ago. I almost always run Remington hulls as they are my favorite. I usually run them until the mouth starts to split. I have only ever had one Remington hull have the head get loose and come off the hull body and that was a high base wad (not sure if that matters, but wanted to mention). I’ve n ver shortened the rem hulls either for my steel loads, but I have for my bismuth loads.