Cleaning a Pentair Intellichlor Salt Cell

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SALT WATER POOL CARE:
My Intellichlor Salt Cell Has No Power: How To Replace The Fuse: • My Intellichlor Salt C...
Salt Water Pool Care, Part One- Overview & Chemistry: • Salt Water Pool Care, ...
Salt Water Pool Care, Part Two - Adding salt: • Salt Water Pool Care, ...
Heavy Calcium Buildup on Salt Cell: • Heavy Calcium Buildup ...
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INSTRUCTIONS:
This video shows you the correct way to clean a Pentair Intellichlor salt cell without damaging the unit. ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND USE SAFETY GLASSES OR GOGGLES (I USE AO SAFETY SUNGLASSES). A GAS MASK IS ALSO HELPFUL WHEN DEALING WITH ACID. DO NOT BREATHE FUMES DIRECTLY.
One note not in the video: do not add salt in the Winter or when the pool water temp is below 60 degrees. The cell doesn't produce in cold water and will give false salt level readings. Add salt only near Summer when water temp is above 70 degrees.
a note about the lights: The light labeled Cell will sometimes be off or dead in some units over time (I have 2 like this, the one in the video turns off and on, probably a bad sensor). The best way to tell if a cell is dirty is if the salt level light drops to yellow on the older units, the newer units (five lights have a slightly different salt level indicator but that too will drop down. The calcium buildup will cause this, meaning salt production is lowered. After you clean the cell you should get an accurate reading. Never add salt until you clean the unit. I try and clean them every 4-5 months or so.
a note on cleaning: please make sure you do not add too much acid (very rapid bubbling and foaming is an indicator that the acid to water mix is too high) as this will ruin the Platinum coated plates ruining the cell. Just add a little acid, and add more to get that gentle bubbling effect. It will take longer to clean the cell but is much better for the unit. If you find the cell is not being cleaned, add a bit more acid. You don't want to be out $500+ for a new one.
PH in a Salt Pool: The PH in a salt pool will always be high (8.2 or higher) due to the salt unit. NEVER add more than 1/2 gallon of acid to the pool. Your goal is not to have a 7.2-7.4 PH, but to keep it low. Always run pool when you add acid for 3 hours. If you run the PH below 7.0 for an extended period the plaster will get black stains, and the metal in the equipment will rust out. I tend to add 1/4 to 1/2 gal of acid every week and use the PhosFree in the video to keep the white blow back (skin flake like) down (actually a type of Acid that the Salt Cell produces when it reverses). Your goal is to keep the PH within 7.8-8.0 in a Salt Pool.
REMEMBER: The Salt Cell lifespan is 5 years so don't let anyone talk you into a salt water system to save money on Chlorine Tablets. The cost of a new cell is $500+ so it's a wash. And don't be afraid to add a gallon of liquid chlorine or a bag of shock to your pool if the chlorine level drops to zero (heavy use or the salt unit failing to produce).
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[@albertopadilla3227]

Best pool channel in the world. Not exaggerating.

[@livingadreamlife1428]

Thank you for the simple, straightforward video lesson. Cleaned my Intellichlor unit this week in a pool that is 4 months old. Used the pre-mixed “ Salinity” bottle product which came complimentary with the purchase of the pentair end cap referenced in this video. Cell had very little build-up, if at all, and didn’t bubble. I let it sit for 15-20 min, dumped the mix in the pool and reconnected the unit.

[@fa50x20]

The Pentair instructions say to premix the water and acid. One quart of acid to a gallon of water. This video shows pouring the acid directly into the water which is already in the cell. If you do it this way you have no idea what ratio of acid to water you have created. Also the acid initially would be very concentrated at the end where you poured it. Not really sure if the acid would mix itself. So follow Pentair's instructions and premix your cleaning solution and avoid the guess work and possible damage.

[@drdrew3]

The ratio is 4 parts water to 1 part acid. Once you done it several times you can just do it the same way as in the video. Not hard to do it by eye unless you are a noob

[@fa50x20]

@@drdrew3 he 4 parts to 1 is correct... but you don't explain that in your video. You are just adding acid until it bubbles. ?? no idea how much either. Plus you are pouring acid directly on the flow switch vane. I don't think that is a very good idea. concentrated muriatic acid is very corrosive. ?

[@christopherfisher1694]

Glad I watched the video for the tip on 1) Needing to buy the cap. 2) Not completely filling the chlorinator with acid. Thank you (new subscriber to your channel).

[@222leeloo]

you have the best pool how-to videos. you have a very relaxed, informed voice and manner. keep up the good work..thx

[@BeardedTechGuy]

I was not expecting the option of just tasting the water for salt level lol. Thank you

[@TheSmellalicious]

You are the most helpful pool guy on KZbin! Thank you for all the videos!

[@SPL]

My pleasure. Yeah, those lights are a little touchy. I will be at an account one week and it will show orange so I will lug a 40 lb bag of salt back there the next week, and the light will be green. I've had them go from RED low salt to GREEN good in a week too for no apparent reason. Overall it is a great system.

[@SPL]

If you are using 12 oz of water then 10 oz of that would be water and 2 oz would be acid. You can safely go as high as 4 to 1 if the cell is really dirty (lots of white calcium build-up).

[@danl4222]

Really helpful Tutorial for my first cleaning attempt. Thank you

[@peterbell9683]

I love these KZbin tutorials! Even if you've looked it over, got it all figured out, nothing like a sanity check. My lil conundrum being, with my unit now in its 3rd season, I expected to see quite a mess, but no, it looked brand new inside! I still put it through the cleaning processes yet, the lil green "check cell" light is still blinking... hmmmm... at this point, low-low salt? We'll see... thanks again... well done!

[@SPL]

Peter Bell 3 years old - that little sensor inside is probably wearing out a bit. I suggest soaking it again in a light acid solution making sure that little flap like sensor is submerged in the acid. Then connect it again and see if the light stops flashing. Sometimes that sensor fails before the cell itself. Re-cleaning the cell will usually get it to reset. Thanks for the props.

[@peterbell9683]

MrDgvb1... I responded to your youtube note to me but it bounced... and now I see this one via google. If this works I'll resend my note to you via google... these different windows keep popping up! yipes, I had no idea! Thanking you in advance... [e-mail]

[@SPL]

That is a good question with this salt cell since it is not cleaned in a bucket. I use a garden hose and flush the acid out if I am near a drain, thus diluting it. You can also pour it in a bucket and dump it into your pool if no drain is available. Just be sure not to splash any acid on you as you do this. Then rinse the cell out with a hose.

[@SPL]

Sounds like the sensor inside the cell shown in the video is acting up. I suggest soaking it in acid again, put it at the bottom of the cap this time. Add a little more acid then you did when you cleaned the cell 2 days ago. Let it set for 10-15 minutes. Reattach the cell and see if the light turns green. They are very touchy and I had the same problem at one of my accounts. I re-cleaned it and it worked. You may need to do this a third time.

[@Rick-O-Shay60]

Thank You So much! I was about to replace my unit (quoted price $450)

[@JoeDeLorenzoRIT]

Thanks for the video. Just a note the salt cell does not generate salt the salt cell generates chlorine

[@SPL]

I would. It is only like $150-$200 difference in price or so. I think the IC20 is rated for your pool size (20,000 or less), but I just install the IC40 which is rated up to 40,000 gallons.

[@dennisvalentino9244]

Good info on cleaning but O rings should be lubed and ring channels cleaned. Rub O rings and look for any black to come off to see if it’s about to fail. Magic lube works well for all O rings on your system especially the canister type filter ring.

[@SPL]

Open the power box and see if the led light is green. If not a fuse is blown. There is a fuse at the bottom of the power box. You will see a black cap, I think you need a screw driver to turn it, it will open and remove the fuse. If the fuse looks bad (connection will be broken) take it to Radio Shack and get a new one, I think it is 10 amps. One other thing, make sure the cell is plugged back in all the way, it has a computer like pin plug. it has to be set perfectly tight or it won't work.

[@resortrealtorjoe]

Thank you ! How about all the complainers make your own video and post it , let’s see how many complaints you get.

[@SPL]

There you go!

[@SPL]

Got Seven Ecomatics on my route, three are working and four are down. Of the three that are working two of them got new cells last year. That is not good, that is why we don't install them anymore. Stopped about three years ago and went with Pentair only. I have a dozen Pentair IC40 systems, one is down due to the cell getting old, the other eleven are working fine. All are at least three years old and running great. Some are over five years old. Pentair just makes a better unit.

[@SPL]

This was my 1st Salt Cell cleaning video, so I was not looking at it from a totally layman's terms. I handle the stuff daily and know the danger. My later salt cell videos mention it, but thanks for the heads up to everyone out there. I have a video on Muriatic Acid on my Channel too, highlighting the danger of the vapors. I apologize for not mentioning it more clearly in this video. The mistake has been noted. Thanks again.

[@btaylor9661]

Do you ever take anything to scrape at the cell to remove any leftover buildup on the cell?

[@jJ-lz2mk]

@@btaylor9661 no don't ever do that

[@SPL]

That may work. The Power light coming on Solid Red with all other lights off could be a cell failure. Usually the "Life" LED will flash for a few months before this happens. It could be the flow sensor which is a replaceable part, but usually that "Flow" light will be red with the salt level lights flashing from good to low. You can test the power between the red & black wires to see if there is any power. Last there is a fuse in there and maybe it only giving the unit partial power -rare.

[@robwasnj]

An interesting note about immersing the cell, I once had Pentair and an official rep come out to one of my customers to be sure a cell was working, he had me disconnect the cell, install the spacer cell, put the ENTIRE unit submerged in a 5 gallon bucket of water and hold down the flow switch with a piece of wood (or anything non conductive he said) while powering the unit. If it makes bubble and produced chlorine in the bucket he said the unit is working. I too thought the same thing about immersing the entire cell being a bad idea but this was direct from the company. Of course I don't think I'd acid wash it by immersing it.

[@SPL]

I've heard of the bubble test before and that sounds like an interesting way to check it with these cells. I wonder though... zap! 😜👊

[@robwasnj]

@@SPL agreed, I did it under the supervision of the Pentair rep, if something fried I would have asked for a replacement cell on behalf of y customer. This was also back when the warranty term was a full 3 years.

[@robwasnj]

@@SPL I do wonder how well this test actually measures if a unit is working properly. We always get a few calls a year from customers stating the unit isn't working or producing any chlorine, according to the Pentair rep doing this test proves the unit is functioning correctly. Now that it's possible to dial down the units to very low output we may start selling the IC-60 on even smaller pools. In the past it was problematic because we had scenarios where it wasn't possible to turn down the unit enough if someone ran their pump 10 hours or more.

[@trishjacobs6677]

Thank you for this! I did it myself because of your video. I subscribed for more pool help.

[@erickrhernandez1451]

Do you have a video on how to clean a “power clean salt cell”? If you do, should I turn off the power clean salt cell monitor first?

[@jtditto]

Great video. One point. The instructions that come with the cap state that if you are not seeing the bubbles/foaming action(and you've used the right concentration) Stop cleaning process. You dont have the scale issue.

[@davidwaters5313]

What is the best way to take the unions off because there is absolutely no way it is done by hand with the way the pool company who installed my cell did it. your video makes it look simple and it's not even with 3 people to do the job. The thing is not budging at all. So what is the best tool to use to really do the job because hands aren't an option it's not as simple as you dhow it

[@tonyrehal218]

If you have channel locks (larger size) that will do the job to loosen the unions. They should only be hand tightened in the future.

[@Wisecracka84]

What is a safe way to dispose of the muriatic acid? Thanks

[@DS-gt1ft]

Pour it into your pool!

[@jw8560]

Great video and excellent tips!!

[@dennisvalentino9244]

Good information about cleaning.. is maintenance mode on Intellichlor panel sufficient for cleaning or does the breaker on the panel need to be off? Maintenance mode shuts does turn the lights off to the Intellichlor.

[@SPL]

Sounds like the GFI tripped. Push the test & reset buttons on the outlet. That should reset it. If the buttons do nothing then the outlet needs to be replaced.It should reset.

[@erickrhernandez1451]

So do I fill my salt cell with water halfway and then fill it with acid? Exactly how much water do I put in? I’m a visual and I don’t understand when people say 5 parts water and 1 part acid.

[@deneengoddard2553]

Your videos are the best and really helpful, thank you! My service company just advised that my pentair salt cell system may need to be replaced. The quote is $1800 but when I see them on line they do not seem that expensive. I understand the cost would be higher from a dealer to include installation but from amazon they cost less than $400. Am I missing something? Is this something I could replace myself if I ordered the parts online? Thanks.

[@ryansimmons1001]

Deneen Goddard yes, you can. Its not hard at all and requires little to no tools. Just follow the provided procedural info and you'll be fine.

[@tonyjf64]

I know this is an old question, but for someone who may come along in the future, you can absolutely do it yourself. My pentair cell needed to be replaced and my local pool shop quoted $1200 to install a new one. A quick Amazon search showed that I could buy one for about 500 bucks. The installation was a piece of cake.

[@oscarmunera7999]

Thank you Very!! much for your help. I'm fixed my pool system😃

[@massfusionstudio]

I taste it by using it to make a Tom Collins drink. Sit back and soak up some sun while my chlorinator is being acid cleaned

[@SPL]

I would go ahead and inspect it while you do the filter. If you take it off and see no calcium at all on the plates then you don't need to clean it. It just depends on the water hardness in your area. If you notice white build-up, go ahead and do the cleaning. I have a video on the FNS filter cleaning also - if you haven't done it before you may want to watch that one also.

[@clsapbpvqtckaxzmahQW]

Would a dirty cell cause the fuse to blow?

[@kjaychen]

hi, I am your big fan, and learn a lot from your video. recently I have a problem with my Jandy Control Panel, that the CFI outlet is no power, and the pool / spa light doesn't turn on, either,, I don't know if this is outlet problem, that I need to change to a new outlet, or if this is control panel problem,, but my pump is working fine,, just the outlet has no power, and the pool/spa light doesn't work,,, please help...

[@charlesminard3790]

Thanks for the video, very helpful.

[@cherylsmith7661]

Should all of the lights go on when the plug goes back in or do some buttons have to be pushed. As of 2 hours ago, none of my scheduled settings are working. I am thinking that a power off like that has to wait thru a cycle or two to reset and start again???I will have to have a service call if things don't start working soon. Not fun and expensive.

[@SPL]

They usually last about 5 years on average. They changed their design about three years ago. The newer cells just have a "Low" and "Good" salt reading. The older cells have an LED for "Low" "Check Salt" and "Good." If yours is the latter then it is over four years old or older. It could be dead. Did the life lights ever flash green on you?

[@macrumpton]

When my pump is on high, all the lights are green, but on lower speeds, I get the blinking between green and red. What does that mean?

[@SPL]

Low flow or not enough flow to activate. 1800 RPM seems to be the minimum.

[@danbrown6529]

Any idea why mine is stuck on 100% output and will not adjust down. When I push the down button all of the lights start flashing all green, wierd!

[@SPL]

If it is connected to an automated system - it would be controlled from that panel.

[@rmhand]

Thank you for this post! You saved me today.

[@omaliamendez]

HI, I am in Venezuela and can't get a hold of nor Acid nor the special lid to use. Is it same mixture 6 parts water 1 part Vinaigre and you say for longer time - how much longer? The Special lid how do I solve that, will plastic kitchen wrap do?

[@ThndrBuddy]

Where do you dispose the used water/acid?

[@BIGVIC555]

Thank you so much. You have been a great help. My pool is about 13000 gal should I still go for the IC40? Thanks again, Vic

[@jimboehm6496]

Thanks for a very well done video. It is very helpful.

[@JBRoberts338Lapua]

My power light is Red now and all other lights are green except the 40% it is blank, any ideas.

[@lablacksmith1]

Very very helpful. Thanks so much.

[@DakSelfStorage]

Like the video. I am now using a copper/silver ionizer. Been thinking about changing to this system. We have an intellitouch system. Our pool company told me that I will have trouble with PH. Is he just saying that so he can continue to sell us bromine. With the ionizer we keep the bromine low. Pool is about 25,000 with spa so I already figured on the larger unit. From everything else I read I can adjust from remote?

[@SPL]

Ionizers have their drawbacks as they can potentially leak metal into the pool water. I would suggest a Salt System for you for several reasons. Of course price is not one of them as the initial cost to install one is high and you will need a new cell in a few years as they last about 5 years on average. But there are a number of benefits to a salt system. Easy to maintain your pool, crystal clear water, softer feeling water and you will move away from the Ionizer use. You will need the IC40 which is rated for 40,000 gallons or less. You will not need Bromine anymore also. pH tends to rise rapidly in a salt pool, however you can minimize this problem by adding Borates to your pool (30-50 ppm). Borates will help keep the pH stable as it absorbs both base and acid so the pH will not rise dramatically. Borates will also inhibit algae growth in the same way the Ionizer did. I have a Borate playlist on my Channel for more info. the only maintenance the salt system needs is cleaning of the cell when it gets calcium buildup. Not a big deal.

[@DakSelfStorage]

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 thanks for the info. I will check into this.

[@elisavethadjiodysseos1488]

Hello! Thanks for the video! It was very helpful. However, both before and after the cleaning, my intellichlor power light is steady red and the cell along with the "good" light are flashing green. What these indications mean? This is the first time I use the cell. I have it installed for 3 years but never used it because there was a confusion with the pool company and never came back to work it properly. Thanks, Elisavet

[@hubert6843]

That is the old salt machine can you post a new Pentair salt machine

[@Reverendty77]

Hi there. Great help. When you say six parts water one part acid. About how many ounces is that six parts water?

[@tangledangler-fishingfamil2325]

Great video - thanks for posting. Noticed that my cell light is off and no status lights while running. 6mo. old. Dead cell?

[@SPL]

It should be under warranty still so I would call it in.

[@user-wj9ct2ky3k]

What kind of Acid do you use? Is it swimming pool pH reducer balancer?

[@SPL]

31.45% muriatic acid

[@irideCR250]

if the cell light stays off, is there any way to test the cell to see if it needs replaced?,

[@markmays5505]

Good job. Very helpful video.

[@michaelvoigt7983]

thanks well done

[@nonameno8065]

where do i dispose of the dirty muriatic acid water when i dump the cell out? in the pool? down a drain? certainly not in my yard?

[@SPL]

Back into the pool is fine.

[@SPL]

Which light is off, or all they all off?

[@tommyjoe4310]

Cleaned my with the acid but it is still flashing.......... Should I re clean it.?

[@SPL]

See if it resets the next day.

[@efrainalvatez5997]

my chlorinator does not have any lights on the panel fuse replaced transformer green light ok but still no lights on the panel, when I replaced the fuse they lit for 1 second but they went off. My model is the i30 round .Can be dirty?

[@SPL]

Look at that fuse you just put in. It might have blown as well. Would clean cell and try another fuse. Maybe a 15 amp fuse.

[@efrainalvatez5997]

@@SPL the cell are clean the fuse that I replaced is fine and the little geen light beside the fuse is green ...could be a lighting bolt or something else ..that damage something else, the chlorinator is less than a year..

[@Gladius797]

Having issues with the pool here, chlorine level willbm be at 6.0 at 9am and by 3pm its down to 1.0. About how much ppm in salt should I am for? Ive been told 3100

[@SPL]

Try adjusting the CYA level to 100 ppm and see if that helps.

[@Gladius797]

@@SPL its an indoor pool

[@changemybackground7915]

I'm so confused. If salt never leaves pool why would I ever have to add salt????

[@SPL]

It can get diluted. Think of sugar in a cup of coffee. Drink some and add more coffee. The sugar doesn't leave the cup but the fresh coffee dilutes it.

[@raykeylargofl]

flow sensor on my chlorinator is cracked is anyway to replace it? or I have to buy the whole unit?

[@BIGVIC555]

Hi, I have a pool guy instaling a linyer with a new saltwater generator. He was putting in a ecomatic system and I told him I didn't want it because of the high failure rate with them. He told me he would put wich everone I wanted but that he's had good sucess with the ecomatic. Wich one would you recomend. Thanks, Vic

[@jasonvanboesschoten6680]

I never trust any panel for salt readings. I always use a test strip.

[@movietime111]

I bought it second hand, and it was basically new when I bought it several months ago. Not sure how old it is though?

[@seascapejewelry]

Ok thank you very much!

[@movietime111]

Since my PWR light is red, though probably out of warranty, is there somewhere we can send these units in for repair/service? Thanks!

[@tatarka111]

I cleaned cell it was totally clean put it together power was off taking it out and putting back on Turned system on waited 1 hour ran the pool light still flashing green 😥

[@SPL]

Flashing green indicates too much salt. Test the salt level and see if it is over 4000 ppm

[@tatarka111]

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL ok I will today

[@erickrhernandez1451]

Exactly how much water do I put in? Or how high does the water have to be? Is it until all blades are covered with water?

[@SPL]

Yes, covering the blades completely

[@erickrhernandez1451]

Copy that. Fill the salt cell with water until the blades have been completely soaked and then pour in acid.

[@geefim2144]

I use straight acid and notice no difference in the longevity of the cell.

[@SPL]

Interesting.

[@saber767]

excellent video to the point Luv it

[@Felipe-ij2lu]

Very good video. My IC40 is showing very high salt, it says 5600ppm. I already changed the sensor (it was showing zero before) is it possible that the salt level is very high b/c of the cell being dirty? i have not cleaned it yet but wanted to ask if that is a possibility of the wrong reading. The pool has 3600ppm of salt measured on pool store and using strops as well, so i am sure the salt level is ok. The chlorinator works and generates chloring but the salt light is blinking green (indicating high salt). Can hte sensor read much higher becasue the cell being dirty?

[@SPL]

Not sure on that. I would clean the cell and then check after 24 hours if it is still reading high salt.

[@Felipe-ij2lu]

@@SPL thanks for the reply. Great channel. One more question, i saw in one of the replies that you can use white vinegar instead of acid to clean the cell. Is that true?

[@SPL]

@@Felipe-ij2lu Yes. It takes longer but better for the cell plates

[@macmaven5037]

Thanks for the video! When I screw my Intellichlor back in, getting some good leaks on both couplings and have them pretty tight by hand. Are there any gaskets or something to keep this from happening? Thanks.

[@SPL]

Yes, change out both of those o-rings.

[@CSJiGSaW08]

Whats better the Intellichlor or the Ichlor. I'm hearing bad reviews of the Ichlor not lasting or flowing properly with variable speed pumps.

[@SPL]

I like the iChlor better

[@bigboyfireworks]

Thank you sir

[@angelakaplan4047]

None of the green lights on my Chlorinator are on, only the Red Cold Water light. What does this mean and what is wrong with it?

[@SPL]

Nothing to worry about. It just means that the water is too cold for the salt cell to conduct electricity and produce chlorine. I forget the exact temperature it stops at but I think it is around 60 degrees. Once the water heats up as we move towards Summer the green lights will come back on.

[@martinwhitthorne6324]

I have an ic40 pentair. Both lights on my salt level are flashing. I just replaced this unit with a new one. Any suggestions?

[@SPL]

Give it a day or two and see if it reads the level correctly. Your pool may have too much salt in it and you will need to drain some water out.

[@martinwhitthorne6324]

Thanks for the help

[@ryanadams2009]

My cell light is flashing green, and I've cleaned it multiple times. The cell is on its 5th year, but when I check the life status it only says 40%. I did notice one of the blades is gone. Is it time for a new cell, or is there something I can do?

[@SPL]

Ryan Adams It is probably that sensor inside the unit going bad. It probably thinks the cell is still dirty when it is not. A new cell is in order unless you can get that sensor working. Try attaching the cell cleaning cap on the end with the sensor (flap thing inside over the cell plates). Let it soak in acid for a few minutes and then hose it off really well. Sometimes that gets the sensor working again. Maybe a 4 to 1 acid to water solution. But 5 years is near the end of the cells life span.

[@hyattplacenorthcharleston7671]

I know that an Intellichlor IC40 will produce 1.4 lbs of Cl in 24 hrs @100% but how much should that increase the Cl level in that 24 hour period. If my reading is 2.0 today, @ 100% how much can I expect that to go up?

[@SPL]

Depends on the pool size. But it is 1 lbs of 100% chlorine so if you run it for 24 hours in a 20,000 gallon pool it will go up from 2.0 ppm to 10 ppm minus burn off from the Sun's UV rays.

[@etdg.6182]

3:09 Isn't that a flow sensor/switch?

[@whitemok]

Good video

[@maldoqui]

Hi Dave, I have a 12000 gal pool that is about 2 months old and I'm about to add salt for the first time. I have the Pentair IC 40 installed in line from the start. My question is, should I clean the cell before adding salt? I'm palning on doing a filter clean FNSP60 D.E. Do I need to back wash first before opening and cleaning? Your advise will be appreciated. Thanks

[@ryanbennett8086]

My Pentair says its low on salt and the level is at 3400ppm. I cleaned it and still has red light as low level. Wondering if its just due to cold water temp even though the salt cell seems to be producing as the cold temp shutdown led is not on. Any thoughts?

[@SPL]

Could be the cold water. Wait until the water starts to heat up and see if it comes back to normal levels. A dirty cell will also do that.

[@ktmfan2187]

Do you have to relive the pressure in the tank before taking the cell off?

[@SPL]

Not really.

[@gmomac2947]

Thanks for the excellent video and tips! I am searching all over the 'net for information about maintaining my Pentair IC-40, as my regular pool maintenance and service provider closed shop a few weeks ago. Anyway, so I noticed my Intellichlor went "off" a few days ago, all leds went blank. After resetting circuit breakers and what have you, still no go. So I opened its power supply and found a small 10 amp 230v blown fuse. I replaced it and the Intellichlor worked well for about 2 days; fuse broke again. Could it be a short in the cells? Should I just try to clean it following your video? System is about 4 years old. Thanks.

[@SPL]

Gmo Mac The cell could be getting to old and letting electricity arch thus blowing out the fuse. I've seen it happen on older cells. Try to keep it as clean as possible - free of calcium and if it continues to blow the fuse a new cell is in order.

[@gmomac2947]

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 Got it, I will inspect and clean the cell this weekend and simply replace it if the fuse blows again. Thanks.

[@RonPoindexter]

My intellichlor flow light starts out green then turns to red, the rest of the system seems to be working but I was worried that the system thinks its off if the flow is red, will it still produce chlorine like it should.?

[@SPL]

Check to see if it is on backwards. I've never done that myself ;). The flow arrow should be pointed towards the pools return and not the heater. If the flow is red you will get no chlorine production.

[@RonPoindexter]

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 I checked my filters and they were dirty just from the start up, I put in clean ones and the flow light is green just lost flow from the dirty filters, thanks again for your help

[@kenziekoehler7091]

What if the fuse is not blown i reinstalled my unit from last year and it was working know it is not the power supply has the green light on. any suggestions.

[@SPL]

+Mackenzie Koehler Double check the fuse to make sure it is all the way in the slot and maybe it looks intact but is broken. Sometimes if the fuse holder is not seated properly you will have no power to cell.

[@mommywow33]

Would it be okay to hose it out with just water? Would that help any? We dont have any acid at the moment.

[@SPL]

You can use White Vinegar

[@greghackney8437]

How does it know it's leaking

[@SPL]

You will see water dripping from the unions. If not you are good.

[@SPL]

How old is your salt cell?

[@laurahurlburt7890]

How do you properly dispose of the acid/water mixture?

[@SPL]

+Laura Hurlburt You can pour it into a bucket and then into the pool.

[@sdmedicscott]

@@SPL with the calcium floating in it??

[@Omnipotent2013]

is there an alternate to not using this adapter for the SWG to clean it? Lessie is going to take an entire week before it's here and I need to clean it now.

[@SPL]

Akura Trigger Yes. the Hayward model fits the same and is actually more stable. I use it on my route. If you have AmazonPrime you can get it by Friday or sooner. www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-CELLSTAND-Cleaning-Stand-Replacement/dp/B002YLWYH0/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1437002982&sr=1-1&keywords=hayward+cell+cap&pebp=1437002976363&perid=002WHQYSW28QXH67Z7X1

[@Omnipotent2013]

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 Thank you.

[@seascapejewelry]

thanks for the video. What do you do with the water after you clean it? on another video they showed it being dumped into the "basket" of the filter? don't know if I am saying that right. Is that correct to do?

[@SPL]

Susan Wulf You can dump it into a bucket and then back into your pool. You don't want to dump in on cement or plants nor into the pump basket.

[@ChristianGarcia-nd6xn]

I cleaned my cell yesterday, now i cant get the "cell" or "percentage" to lit green, Just flow and salt, i keep the button pressed for factory reset but it will only keep the percentage lit for 20 seconds then back to normal. Could it be that my salt level is already high?

[@SPL]

+Christian Garcia Is it set to 100% output? If you set it to say 50% - then the cell will only light up half the time it is running.

[@ChristianGarcia-nd6xn]

+Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 Thanks for replying, no i usually have it set to 60 or 80, Now it just wont stay on any percentage, so my only lights that stay on are "flow" and "salt level" both green.

[@SPL]

+Christian Garcia Is it connected to an automated system?

[@ChristianGarcia-nd6xn]

+Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 Yes, but it will only tell me diagnostics from what i understand, i've only had it for a year

[@ChristianGarcia-nd6xn]

Ok somehow, it started working again, i cleaned it yesterday, so maybe 24hrs had to pass for it to register again, its exactly 24 hrs after i cleaned it

[@marcfox]

LOL at acid "not as powerful."

[@DrNoro]

all my lights are green and I have the pool chlorinator set to 80% and spa to 8% but it is not producing chlorine. I am having to buy gallons every week and add it in manually. Any ideas? (cell is clean and free of build up. no flashing lights no red lights?

[@markmcwhorter1956]

low salt?

[@markmcwhorter1956]

go to www.troublefreepool.com it is AWESOME

[@DrNoro]

Mark McWhorter salt is at 3600ppm

[@kencouturier4222]

Pool company says my Intellichlor is gone and I need a new one. Is there a way for me to verify that?

[@SPL]

If the cell life LED is solid red then it is dead. If that light is flashing it is still good. It could also be dead if the clean cell light flashes green even after cleaning the cell multiple times and the cell is free of calcium build-up. That means the sensor inside has gone bad. Is any of that happening?

[@tsmooth18292]

My salt cell keeps losing flow. I've cleaned it a couple times it's only about 6 months old. It'll work as long as nobody is swimming but whenever the pool has people in it the cell loses flow. Any idea on what it could be?

[@SPL]

Is it a variable speed pump?

[@tsmooth18292]

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 No sir its the Hayward Super pump.

[@SPL]

Should not be happening. I would call Pentair as that could be a defect.