12V, 24V, or 48V Battery for Off-Grid Solar Power

[@cleversolarpower]

📖 My best-selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified 🎁 Free diagrams: cleversolarpower.com 💵Use coupon code: clever6 to get 6% discount for Litime batteries: cleversolarpower.com/litime (cheaper than amazon)

[@clementjackson5175]

Good day so what will you do to make your battery last longer

[@fruitfulsmart]

I am using 2000w Modified Inverter with 2 x 12.8v 100Ah ea Gel Batteries in parallel, charging with solar panels, connected with 50A Controller I use this system to power my 170L Fridge on a daily basis + Charging Phones, Laptop. I started to use the system October 2023 till today and I can say that it is working effectively.

[@cleversolarpower]

I recommend you take a look at my video about: 'how many batteries for a 3,000W inverter' it will help you size the system even better.

[@buddhimaamarasinghe9997]

"I found the video you shared to be extremely valuable. Thank you very much for taking the time to share your knowledge."

[@cowpiecowboy7599]

Subbed and definitely buying that book! Love the way you pause for a second after each statement it gives me time to soak it in. Other channels talk so fast like they on their 4th Red Bull. Just cause they know don’t mean I know. I really appreciate your self sponsored videos made me lol . Thanks again and I’ll be sure to like them all

[@cleversolarpower]

Thank you for your support! I try to talk as I'm explaining it to a friend 😉

[@synthwave7]

Your video explains it very well. Thanks. I also used an inverter and a deep cycle 12V battery - The inverter burned out after a year and the battery did not last long. 12 Volt systems are not designed for large loads or Watts no matter how you wire it.

[@danieltoledo9383]

I went with the 12v 2kw inverter and its been running fine for half a year or so. I max it out sometimes running a table saw. Keeps most of my led powered. All year long Merry Cristo Mas Lights!

[@tweedeldee8122]

XLNT! I settled on 24v for my small project. Would have liked to do 48v but my initial 2 panel start wouldn't produce over 48v. I have 6 RV panels but ended up with two charge controllers. Gotta love Victron and the way the two controllers and smart shunt all talk to each other. 2 panels on a moveable angle adjustable cart feeding a 100/20. 4 panels fixed angle on roof feeding a 150/35. I wanted to experiment with angle and position of the cart and see if it generated more (or less) than 50% of the roof panels by moving it throughout the day and adjusting angle for the season. Now in the winter I'm really seeing significant differences moving and angle adjusting makes.

[@gushardy4421]

Wait until you try ELECTRODACUS system. The guy is a genius.

[@musicrecordstudio]

I must say that this was very well explained.

[@neomatrix2722]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge I have learned a lot I love solar I started with a 12 volt system I've upgraded to a 24 volt system and now I'm going to upgrade to a high voltage 24 volt system

[@gregorychileshe5955]

Thanks for sharing information. C Plaese, can you make a video on the calculations of specific MCB and SPD?

[@cleversolarpower]

I made a video about fuse sizes, quite similar to breakers. I've not made a video about SPDs. They are not common in Europe.

[@williamhoffner2720]

Great video and explanations. Just what I needed at this early stage of my going solar.

[@cleversolarpower]

Checkout my beginners playlist as well.

[@shmayazuggot8558]

Good video though I would add the number one benifit of higher volts is lower current which IS lower resistance resulting in lower HEAT POTENTIAL! A lot of new chargers can do all three 12/24/48v. I’d suggest to anyone dabbling in this area for the first time start at 12v for a few months until your confident to shift up to 24v and home run on 48v.. 12v is safer getting your feet wet.

[@LoanWo1f]

I’m looking to backup my home for a few hours during random power losses. Would like to have a system that can supply 11kwh (if I need it longer on that day I can fire up generator). Would you suggest 48v for this application? I’m experienced working safely with 480v systems at work however mapping them out for logistics. Is not my strong point😂

[@hemantpainter1785]

should I buy a 48 v 280 amh battery to power freezer and refrigerator and smaller appliances. What size inverter for that?

[@ManfredBortenschlager]

Excellent video. Convinced me to change to a 48V system. Thanks

[@cleversolarpower]

A 48V system is much better if your inverter and solar power is high. You will save a lot of money.

[@greaterbw]

Thank you for the video I’ve been kind of confused about that and this completely made sense and cleared it up. I’m researching doing a whole home off grid system without spending ridiculous money. I’m sure I won’t need more than 10kwh for just two people. I’ll check out your other videos 👍

[@cleversolarpower]

It depends on your loads, checkout my video 'sizing an off grid solar system'.

[@TheCodr9]

The mount you save is will be taken when you purchase batteries

[@rensonmajor4105]

Could you do a video on the best solar system that could run your indoors lights internet and cctv cameras

[@frankmckinley1254]

Great video, information is spot on.

[@HybridBattery]

Sterling power sells a 12v-> 48v charger for automotive use. Also, a secondary 48v alternator is a common way to charge a 48v system. 48v 100a alternators put out 5000W which is good for charging large 48v batteries.

[@cleversolarpower]

The sterling 12V-48V charger sells for $800 I believe, not in everyone's budget.

[@HybridBattery]

@@cleversolarpower it charges at about 800 watts. Equivalent 12v-12v dc-dc chargers (or pairs of lesser chargers) will cost in the same ballpark

[@sun-sea-solar]

Took me a while to go over to 48v, starting at 12v then 24v. Because i wanted to learn. I've learnt a lot. But my 48v system is new, just one 48v 50ah lifepo4 at the moment. But it's scalable

[@dracwula]

There should be more 12v appliances today (meaning no need for 120V / AC voltage step-down conversions) especially for short distance wiring such as RV or mini-van converted campers lifestyle

[@AillsRanch]

I have a off grid small cabin and i only want to run a minifridge, i currently have a 24v , 50 ah lithium battery and a 24v 1000watt pure sine wave inverter connected to two 320 watt panels in parallel that are 34v with a 30 amp mppt charge controller, do you think it will work?

[@Fatfreddy7]

Thanks, looking at C rating now cheers

[@Shaibuli]

Maybe it could be added that 50V is the regulatory limit for low-voltage at least in some EU countries and 48V systems can go over that limit. This also means that officially you would need to hire an certified electrician to do the installation, which means any cost calculations going out the window. You can of course still do it yourself, but if your cabin/rv burns down for ANY reason, good luck explaining your DIY wiring job to the insurance company.

[@cleversolarpower]

Great comment. 👏

[@JollySmash]

My local shop said don’t mess around with installing a 24v secondary battery/accessory system because it may cause issues given my car is 12V. What are your thoughts? I told them I was leaning toward a 24v setup after watching your videos

[@cleversolarpower]

What issues? Your battery is 12V, not your car. Checkout my video about grounding.

[@Tony-l8f]

Thanks again Nick for the solar diagrams, and informative material it’s great! But have a question. I’ve built Mob. Homes with solar since 1986 (10% eff & no controllers!) I’ve now decided to go the 24v 100A Lith. for house. The nagging Q is; why not wire the (my 750w 37.5v solar) controller on the (24v) cranking batt. side, the input to the 30-amp B2B? The pros would be less work for the alternator, cranks kept charged, and, save a few drops of fuel. Would I get away with that?

[@vinmeg69]

These days 96V batteries are on the marked, can you make a video with your advise and calculation examples how to setup a system combined with solar?

[@cleversolarpower]

Inverters are still limited to max 48V batteries, so the market is still very small.

[@vinmeg69]

Hi, I see only cheap chineese 96v inverters. Is there any reason why US suppliers do not offer these? Can you clearify or investigate this? @@cleversolarpower

[@okoiiwara8407]

Thanks for the lectures. How can I connect 6batteries on a 48v system

[@cleversolarpower]

You can't. It's either 4x 12V batteries or 8x 6V batteries, ... So you have two batteries left over.

[@sun-sea-solar]

Unfortunately I didn't realise my 48v battery from renogy was a 15s not a 16s, that extra cell makes a big difference to capacity. My battery is new and only settles at 50volts after charging to 54v. Doesn't seem right to me

[@Tony-l8f]

Hi Nick, top videos! Will get your book. For 24v (Motorhome, LA cranking) I want to set up lithium for house batt. Pros: lithium is better. Cons: My previous set ups with HD flooded LA were a lot simpler. No DC-DC, All in parallel, HD marine switch, batt. 1,2(house), both or off. A bypass switch, line with a diode to the alternator to increase its output if needed when driving and, voltmeter to indicate batteries nearly full. The solar would contribute whilst driving = less work for the alternator and, when RV not in use the solar preserves (trickle) all the LA batteries, in float. Can a hybrid system be set up to get those benefits as well?

[@cleversolarpower]

I have made a video about it called: drop in lithium is a lie. You can check what you need to change. If this system has been working for you and you don't want to replace components, then I would just get new batteries.

[@Tony-l8f]

@@cleversolarpower Thanks a mill. Nick!! Unfortunately my cranking batts are sealed. The old syst. only works if you can top up the HD flooded now and then. They could take a (15.5v) hiding but now are expensive and becoming harder to find. AGMs can’t handle much so I’ll follow your vids. Thanks!

[@Din2580]

I see you talked about RV, but what about off-grid homes? Will it not be better to go for 400v systems or similar that's closer to the solar panel voltages? Will HV system still be better than the typical 52V (LV) system? There are systems like FoxESS, Sungrow and Sigenergy with these high voltage systems. The installation costs for the Fox and Sungrow are similar to that of the same size 52V system, and they are more efficient when coming to charging with a solar array due to the HV match

[@cleversolarpower]

I talk about RV's and off grid homes in my videos. there is a limited amount of inverters that are suitable for high voltage. I recommend using 48V for home systems. You should not be installing systems higher than 48V yourself because it's quite dangerous.

[@junkerzn7312]

Its good but to be frank you pretty much always want to go straight to 48V 16s (51.2V nominal LiFePO4). The only limitation is that the solar VOC going into the charger controllers has to be 61V+. But that's only 3 x 100W panels in series, or 4 x 50W panels in series, or 2 x residential panels in series. In otherwords, it isn't much of a show-stopper. And you have to use glass auto-fuses instead of blade auto-fuses (all fuses need at least a 60VDC rating), and ANN/CNN (or marine bolt-on) instead of ANL for the main battery fuse. That's it. For alternator connections you always have to use an amperage-limited DC-to-DC converter no matter what the battery topology if the batteries are lithium or if the bank is large. Since most people use lithium these days... LiFePO4 that is. So going 48V is not a show-stopper for alternator charging. The advantages of 48V are so massive that it is really hard to ever justify using a lower voltage. The cost is the same but the flexibility with 48V is massive. Wiring losses (heat) are 1/16th that of 12V, the cables can be thinner in general, and even just going with 2 AWG battery cabling still gives you 100A @ 51.2V = 5120W of capability. The voltage drop across long cables is almost nothing, and numerous other reasons. Equipment heat is also a lot lower and efficiency is a lot higher. And also the very same charge controller can handle 4x the solar in a 48V system that it can in a 12V system (for charge controllers which can handle 12/24/36/48V). Such as a Victron 100/20, for example. Also, for a robust system, particularly with lithium, you ALWAYS want to parallel at least two batteries at the system voltage. So for a 12V system you want to have at least 2 x 12V batteries in parallel. For a 24V system at least 2 x 24V batteries in parallel, and for a 48V system at least 2 x 48V batteries in parallel. Because of this it is generally wise, particularly when using LiFePO4, to buy batteries that are already at the desired system voltage. Then the system can be trivially expanded simply by adding more batteries in parallel without having to worry about the mess that comes with whole-battery balancers in series+parallel configurations. Legacy 12V gear is easy to handle regardless, its just a buck converter. And any heavy loads should either hang off of AC or be directly run from the 24V/48V system voltage (obviously the appliances have to be compatible if run directly from DC). Light appliances are a non-issue since a $15 buck converter usually handles them without issue. So go straight to 48V if you can swing it. And if not, at least start at 24V. -Matt

[@anassyria5176]

Thanks a lot for sharing!

[@cleversolarpower]

I agree! However, I don't with the point about alternator charging in an RV. What DC to DC converter are you using to go from 12V to 48V?

[@junkerzn7312]

@@cleversolarpower A more ideal configuration would be to have a higher voltage alternator (like a 24V or 48V alternator), to massively reduce the amps, then use something like a Victron 24/48 or 48/48 DC-to-DC. That said, there are numerous 12V to 48V battery chargers on the market as well. The path is alternator -> converter/charger -> 48V bank -> 48-to-12 converter -> 12V starter and vehicle battery. That way you have full control over the power pulled from the alternator and the home battery can support the starter battery (even provide a little extra oomph since it can charge the starter battery during and after a crank without the engine running). Generally speaking with DC the best choice is to always down-convert or same-convert when possible, not up-convert. Another less efficient solution is to stick with the 12V alternator/starter-battery setup and charge the home bank with a regular battery charger powered from an AC inverter. Quite inefficient, though (not that the engine will care too much). -Matt

[@Customers_support]

Ur knowledge is amazing, I was convinced to go 24v but now I will research 48v for my little camper. I won’t ever pull over 2300 watts but I’m limited on panels so I’ll go big on battery & aux charge on occasion… TY again for the info

[@ValdsonCleto]

@@junkerzn7312 I'm looking for information exactly about this! I'm looking for a way to charge, via the alternator, the 48V battery that I'm going to put in my trailer. I was thinking about using the Orion 12/48, but like Nick said, it's not a battery charger. Lucky I found out before making the purchase. So I had this idea of ​​using an inverter to power the 48V battery charger. An advantage is that this 48V battery charger will be communicating with the 48V battery through the Cerbo, so charging is the best possible, better than using an Orion charger that does not do this communication (the only Orion that does it's the XS). Since I was thinking about using the Orion 12/48, I was already thinking about taking advantage of this higher voltage advantage to install the Orion in the car, instead of in the trailer, and thus be able to make the connection between the car and the trailer. more efficiently, with currents 4 times smaller and therefore thinner cables. With the idea of ​​using the 12V to 230V inverter, I think this advantage becomes even greater, and I believe that I will be able to make a relatively high power connection through the 13-pin socket on the hitch, without needing another connection. I believe I can install an 800VA inverter without having problems with my 140A alternator. And I think the loss won't be much greater because of the two conversions, and part of it should be compensated with a smaller loss in the cables and connections at 220V, don't you think? Do you or @cleversolarpower have any warnings or recommendations to make?

[@AhasanulBashar-h7o]

Hi Sir, I bought 12V 990 watt solar panel, 230A battery and 1100VA inverter. Now how to connect the solar panels series or parallel

[@markcleaver6573]

How many panels? Where are you using the system, RV or home?

[@siphiwedlomo3084]

Hello, I am using 3000W hybrid inverter, 3x200ah Gel batteries and 2x400w solar panels but it only runs for only 4hours after sunset.

[@official_iziah_key]

What appliances are you using ?. 4 hours seems pretty small

[@gyabaacheampongdaniel5166]

800w panels not enough to charge 600ah battery fully

[@Livefree2020-j6h]

Your videos are very informative, lots for me to learn. I'm configuring a large sailboat for 12 v battery powered devices, most upgraded to LED. The boat came with a 400 w wind turbine, an upgraded 150A alternator on my diesel engine, a 1500W inverter and I plan on adding 2 x 100w solar panels to charge my house batteries which I was thinking would be 2 x 24v lithium batteries. I have room to add 2 more 100W panels in the future. I was thinking for starters 2 solar panels in series. Suggestions?

[@cleversolarpower]

I recommend using 24V in your case; Don't expect much from the wind turbine. Your alternator will give you the most power. Use 24V batteries instead of 2x12V batteries for balancing issues (like you already do). If your boat experiences shade, which i assume it does, then wire the panels in parallel. However, your voltage should be +5V than the battery charging voltage. 28.8V+5V=44V minimum PV input. So you should wire in series.

[@Livefree2020-j6h]

@@cleversolarpower I would need a step down converter for my 12v system. Would a new inverter be required of just go with the existing setup after the stepping down the voltage?

[@JoelPoole-o6g]

Nick, am trying to figure out best solar options for my truck camper. I currently have a 2000w inverter (Jupiter from HF), and 2 100AH lipo4 batteries. I would like to go with a 24v system but am confused about what size controller and how to wire a 12v step down converter. The struggle is real.. do you have a 24v schematic for this? Thanks for all your great info. You’ve become my number one source for all things Solar.

[@cleversolarpower]

I have a resource, check the second link in the description for my free diagrams. The size charge controller depends on how many solar panels you have. Let's say you have 400W of solar panels and a 24V lifepo4 battery that charges at 29.2V. 400W/29.2V=13.7A -W use a 20A charge controller.

[@JoelPoole-o6g]

Perfect. Exactly what I was looking for. Much thanks

[@JiffyHand]

I have been experimenting with solar systems for the past three weeks. I purchased a 12-volt inverter with a 240V AC output, which is connected to four 115Ah AGM batteries. I have come to realise that the inverter was an error, as it draws too much current for UK 240V electrical equipment. Would you recommend that I opt for a 48V inverter instead? I will likely need to acquire an all-in-one solar charger, and I plan to configure the twelve 100-watt solar panels in series for the 48V system.

[@cleversolarpower]

I recommend watching my most popular video on my channel. It's about sizing the battery to the inverter.

[@LoanWo1f]

Maybe someone could provide me with some advice, I am looking to do a battery back up system for my home in Florida anywhere between 10 KWH or 15 KWH. Should I go 48v for basically backfeeding my home panel (safely and legally)

[@elijahmalik9365]

Let’s talk about the actual situation. Currently, the best voltage platform is the 24V platform. The main reason is that various chips, including IC, MOS, and capacitors have insufficient voltage resistance. Anyone with basic knowledge of electricity will use DC-DC step down circuit, not DC-AC. This can maintain extremely high efficiency while being safe, making the overall power consumption efficiency of various electrical appliances reach 96%-98%. Instead of DC-AC boost, AC-DC results in an efficiency close to 60% or even lower. However, the 48V platform is not perfect at present, and it still needs the slow advancement of technology to improve the voltage resistance of peripheral DC equipment before it can be popularized.Moreover, the current battery yield rate and consistency are still very low. After being connected in series to 48V, the failure of one battery in the battery pack will cause the entire battery pack to be eliminated. This results in the waste of a 48V battery pack being twice as much as that of a 24V battery pack with the same capacity.

[@luisgee3739]

So should I buy a 24 v battery and use a dc to dc step down to convert to the 12 v ? Then use an inverter thats 12 v rated to convert to 120v ac instead?? I want something safe.

[@elijahmalik9365]

@@luisgee3739 Everything is based on existing battery packs. And give priority to using DC. The DC platform can ensure high efficiency and is relatively safer. If possible, avoid using an inverter to convert DC to AC. If the battery pack you have is 12V, there is no point in buying a 24V battery pack. There is not much difference between 24V and 12V. DC lights, refrigerators, air conditioners, chargers and other accessories used on RVs are basically dual-purpose 12V/24V voltage platforms. Do not try to add a new battery and mix the old and new batteries. This will not only fail to bring out the performance of the new battery, but also make the old battery dangerous.

[@FishersOutdoorAdventures]

I really appreciate your videos and I did purchase your book however I’m just just starting to read it. My question is I have a 12 24 4836 and 60 converter. I also have a 12 2448 63,000 watt inverter. How many solar panels would I need to charge using 412 V 100 amp Lipo batteries wired in series. I have purchased already to Rich solar 100 amp solar panels. How many more would I need to charge up this system? I plan to use this to power my two refrigerators if I lose electric because my whole house is electric, no gas no oil heat or everything is electric. I appreciate in advance your help with this question.

[@cleversolarpower]

4 12V 100ah batteries = 4,800wh. Charge with average of 3 sunhours per day: 4800/3= 1600W of solar.

[@ImASurvivorNThriver]

Great content! Thanks for sharing.

[@ShaneS071]

great informative video, one thing you did not discuss was the cost difference 12v,24v, and 48v batteries

[@cleversolarpower]

Server racks are a bit more expensive compared to 4 12V batteries. However, I still recommend getting a server rack or diy one if you want a 48V system. Then all the cells are balanced.

[@stevesheets2815]

Love your videos.

[@cleversolarpower]

Thanks! I try my best.

[@rockinonamerica1st722]

i own a 48v system with 20 - 235W panels and I have purchased 30 - 260W additional panels , this is a 12kw system and will be adding 2 wind turbines as well which put out about 2kw each with 40 mph wind. This system came with 24 AGM batteries 105 Ah with 2 - 80 A Charge controllers, so I know that more charge controllers are necessary for the added panels and I suspect I will need more storage as the area this system will be located is overcast quite a bit, and that is the reason I purchased the other panels and need the extra controllers and batteries. This is my 1st off grid system and am unable to get grid power where this is going for a cabin. What are your thoughts regarding this situation? I feel like the panels added should allow me to charge the batteries (including the new batteries necessary) to overcome the worst conditions during the overcast time. The cabin will have approximately 12kwh of power requirements per day.

[@cleversolarpower]

Small wind turbines do not provide the rated power. You will be lucky to get 300W per turbine. Not worth it in my opinion. You better get a generator to top up your battery when it's needed. Lithium is cheaper in the long run.

[@MugishaJoshua-mb4pe]

i have 2 batteries of 200h in parallel how many 100 watt's solar's panels do I need?

[@Phylliz-o9x]

how many solar panels can charge 24v lithium battery

[@ggermany2123]

2:10 How many feet of 2/0 wire are you talking about that is $114? What formula are you using?

[@cleversolarpower]

10ft black, 10ft red welding cable from windynation. Calculation is at 2:00

[@724riff]

I'm all new to this , why would a stronger converter require a smaller cooper wire

[@cleversolarpower]

Because the voltage is different. Use the formula: current = power/voltage and you will see that if you increase the voltage, the current will drop. We size wires based on the current.

[@michaelmutale4378]

Can 4 x 355w solar panels charge 2x12v batteries to 3500w 24v inverter without a charging controller?

[@petrutatorcea9626]

Sal foarte bine explicat, dar vreau cu traducere si în limba romana la setari..

[@edrissajallow3285]

How do you did your size

[@gayantharaka4641]

Excellent videos!

[@cleversolarpower]

Thanks!

[@Desnelle]

Hoi je verwijst me naar eerdere filmpjes op youtube maar ik word er niet goed wijs uit. 1000 w per uur wil ik 18u per dag gebruiken. Je raad 24v accu s aan. Welke omvormer is geschikt om 1000w zoveel uur te laten werken? Accu ,Omvormer, kabels ,lader, Wat denkt u wat het bedrag is voor alles bijelkaar wat ik nodig heb?om 1000 w per uur stroom te gebruiken via accu

[@gushardy4421]

Where can I find the chart at the 2:30 mark?

[@cleversolarpower]

Search for 'windynation welding cable' on amazon.com it's manufacturer specific.

[@shalomshalom4481]

Hi Nick, I need help! I just 2x 25.6V/100Ah battery (lithium ), inverter 4000W, MPPT 100/50, solar panel 1x220W/(Voc 46,11V)/ 38,00V (Vmp) and 1x180W/ 44,8V (Voc)/ 36,00(Vmp). I live in Croatia. 3 days without sun battery comes to 30%. Frigidaire 150 Leigh 80 Computer 30 Washing machine 2000 Water pump 600 How mach(power) solar panel's can I put? Thanks for answers!

[@cleversolarpower]

Depends on the total power consumption in a day in Watt-hours.

[@EgideSibomana-b8r]

Hello, teacher where find 1,25 in your recommendation?

[@cleversolarpower]

1.25 is a safety factor to account for wire losses and converter efficiency.

[@Le_jay_official]

what will make a 100amps dc breaker 48v battery bank system to trip?

[@cleversolarpower]

A short or an over current.

[@craigcaffrey6134]

Great video. Thanks !!

[@robertsiwela4639]

With 3000 watts I am using 4 Solar panels and 24V Battery but is not working for 24/7

[@sam4malaysia]

Hi cleversolarpower. My battery is 24v. Should i setup 24v solar panel (12v x 4) or 36v (12v x 6) solar panel ?

[@cleversolarpower]

You need a high voltage on your charge controller input to minimise losses with mppt. So up to the max allowable input voltage of the charge controller. I made a video about this, search for charge controller on my channel page.

[@rafreitas3416]

Meu sistema é em 192vdc 200a

[@Lordlindef]

Ok make an upsett for el engine on an marine diesel engine in boat Have lithium hybrid inverter and solar Need 10 20kw el engine belt to prop shaft for generator and for electric drive

[@stevenewbank]

Great video thank you

[@cleversolarpower]

Thanks for your comment!

[@siphiwedlomo3084]

Please advice, I m using 2x400w solar panels and 3kv hybrid inverter and two 200ah gel batteries but is discharging after 4hours from sunset, and I m only running a plasma 41"TV only. I m in South Africa. ✌️

[@anassyria5176]

I'm not an expert, but it seems like there's something not right with your system . What is the rated voltage and Amps on your TV input? (You can find that information on the backside of the TV or on the TV's power adapter) How many amps of charging power does your inverter have?

[@cleversolarpower]

800W*6hours=4800Wh charging a day. 3,000W inverter = 30-50W standby power consumption = 40W*24h=960Wh. 12V*200Ah*2batteries*0.5 (50% DOD)=2400Wh. From my calculations your battery is charged up every day. You can use 2400Wh of battery power where 960Wh is consumed by the hybrid inverter itself. That leaves you with 1440Wh. Lets say the power is 150W*4hours=600Wh. That leaves you with 840Wh which are the battery degradation and energy transformation losses. So there is nothing wrong with your system, it's just undersized for the load.

[@jeffjohnson122]

Is there a reason 36v was not a consideration? Some older golf carts use 36v and could be a source of power.

[@cleversolarpower]

It's not a widely used voltage and there are not many inverters, chargers, charge controllers,... out there that run on 36V.

[@eroenker]

Wouldn't the Victron Orion 48v DC/DC converter work for a 48v RV for alternator charging?

[@cleversolarpower]

That is a DC/DC converter. You need an Orion tr-smart 12-48v which doesn't exist. I found out the hard way 😄. Converters are not able to charge batteries.

[@eroenker]

@@cleversolarpower Thanks! I'll remove this component and feature from my diagram. Thanks for putting this video out!

[@cleversolarpower]

@svenshanah They are very expensive. It would be cheaper to have a 24V system.But thanks for recommending me the brands, I have heard about the wakespeed, but not about Steerling.

[@emmanuelmumba7512]

I have 2 X 12.8v LiFePO batteries. I want to connect them in parallel to have more energy. What solar panels do i need in watts ? Zambia, Africa

[@cleversolarpower]

checkout my video about load calculation

[@Onlywayoutfx]

Hoi, alsjeblieft, is there a softcopy of your book?

[@cleversolarpower]

You can get a kindle version on Amazon or a pdf version on my website. You can also get it on bol.com alsjeblieft!

[@Createlongevity]

Your video is great!

[@cleversolarpower]

I'm glad you like it

[@Electronzap]

Good information.

[@daudamuhammed957]

Pls, bought a charge controller rated voltage of 12/24v, current of 100A with max.pv voltage:50v and max.pv input power; 650w(12v) 1300w(24v) what is the maximum solar panel, inverter and battery rating suitable for it?

[@cleversolarpower]

If the max PV voltage is 50V, you got yourself a PWM charge controller.

[@ali_df]

Can I use an inverter of 600 Watt on a 100 amp battery?

[@cleversolarpower]

Of course. It's amp hours, not amps 😉

[@mertkaptan3849]

if we put 4 12v batteries in serial for 48v system and charge 12v batteries one by one independently with alternator. like first charge number one battery. after it is charged go and charge the next one and goes like that. is it possible to make a system for this.

[@cleversolarpower]

Not a good idea.

[@etimemmanuel5884]

How can I get your book?

[@cleversolarpower]

Through the link in the description or on my website.

[@georgiosdretakis]

Very good

[@Lordlindef]

If have solar controll thst have to be for extra panels. Hybrid inverter saves you all ur cycluses

[@grahamjohnbarr]

You must explain that a 3000W Inverter is Peak. The Inverter is only safe to 1500W.

[@cleversolarpower]

Define 'safe'

[@grahamjohnbarr]

@@cleversolarpower Wrong word. Would continuous operation up to 1500W be better. The 3000W is only for a short period of time. I do believe the advertising should state the Inverter is a 1500W with a Peak of 3000W. I have an 8000W Modified Sine Wave Inverter, it is designed to run, according to my manual, at a maximum of 4000W with a Peak of 8000W for

[@realeyesrealizereallies6828]

Well, no one running a 48 volt 3,000 watt inverter should really use 6 gauge wire, that's not even a thing..My 3,000 watt inverter came with 4 gauge wires, and good ones, but I replaced those with better quality 2 gauge wires..Wires from inverters to batteries should always be over sized, or the maximum size the inverter will allow for..Short wires are a tiny cost when building a good system..If you are running wires 25-50 feet, that's a different story, but I wouldn't recommend that in just about any situation. I have a cabin in the forest, and I'm in a valley surrounded by mountains, so I don't get alot of sun, especially in the winter..I made a tiltable mount for my 370 watt panels, but it can also move to follow the sun from east to west..Both ends of the mount are 4x4 posts with a square frame made with 2x6's..A ten inch screw goes through the 4x4 posts and through the 2x6's giving me the ability to tilt the system..Which alot of people do..One of my 4x4's is connected to a platform I built from 2x4's and 2x6's and I put four 8 inch wheels underneath, the other 4x4 post is in a 3 foot hole in the ground connected to a bearing plate assembly..So as the sun moves across the southern sky from east to west, I can move the side with the wheels to follow it, while the other 4x4 rotates in place..I also installed some cement plugs in the ground with I bolts, so I can connect wire to the mounting system in it's various positions to secure it, in case of high winds..The system has increased it's output by over 40%, from when it was non tiltable or movable..When it hails I can make my panels go straight up and down, and the same thing when it snows..The panels are bifacial, so I also built a movable reflector for the underside..

[@cleversolarpower]

6 gauge wires are calculated on 105°C insulation temperature (welding cable). If you have a 90°C insulation rated cable, then yes, you need a larger wire.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@cleversolarpower I'm going to point out that for power transmission, you don't go by temperature. You don't want anything in the RV, boat, etc to ever get that hot even when the cable itself can handle it. And you also don't want there ever to be any appreciable voltage drop at the nominal load if the cable happens to be long. So use the power transmission AWG table for power-related stuff, always. Do not use the temperature-ratings. 3000W @ 51.2V nominal (16s 48V LiFePO4) = ~60A = 4 AWG by the power transmission table. That said, if you only need 3000W for surge and your nominal continuous power is far less, like 1500W, then you can size the wire for 30A power transmission which is 7 AWG with an appropriate 30A breaker and still allows surges to exceed that (type C DC breaker rather than the faster-tripping type B). -Matt

[@EXPLOREWITHME.]

​@@junkerzn7312what would u recommend on a person that wears oxygen 24/7 if the grid went down.? Thank you

[@junkerzn7312]

@@EXPLOREWITHME. Oxygen generators burn a considerable amount of power... something around 300W continuously (ballpark), and none of these off-grid batteries or inverters are certified for medical use. The best you can do with a certified backup device, apart from costing one hell of a lot of money, is typically a few hours of backup time. DIYing an uncertified backup device... well, you'd have to accept the risk. But generally speaking, 10kWh of battery storage regardless of the voltage would net you a bit over 30 hours of operation in a blackout. YMMV, you have to calculate it based on average consumption. A kill-a-watt meter will tell you how much your generator is burning. You would want to simplify the system as much as possible to reduce failure points, so if the oxygen generator had a DC input you would want to match the system voltage directly to it and omit the inverter. Then it's just batteries, appropriate fusing, and a charger/maintainer and that's it. Several batteries in parallel to improve reliability. If the generator only has an AC input, you'd need a reliable inverter... a Victron low-frequency inverter sized about 2x the consumption (800W is typically sufficient), for example. But again, DIY solutions for medical uses are not even remotely certified, you are basically on your own if you decide to do that and I am certainly NOT giving medical advice. -Matt

[@jamesfarmer-jn4gy]

I was gonnna recommend an ohms law calculation

[@djice9195]

Battery is the most expensive item in system so higher the voltage the more battery you'll need casting more

[@cleversolarpower]

Not necessarily. You can have a 12V 200Ah battery or a 24V 100Ah battery. Higher voltage does not mean more expensive. It's only expensive when you have a small battery.

[@surendrasurendra612]

Useful

[@darrenegginton9842]

Just tap into the first 12v battery in your bank if you need 12v

[@evil17]

This does work but can create a system inbalance for charging purposes later, if you try this it helps if you can balance the load between the batteries & run a light circuit or whatever to help balance the load from each battery.

[@davidward3991]

The 48 volt batteries were 3 times as expensive as the 24 volt batteries.

[@cleversolarpower]

A 12V 100ah battery has the same capacity as a 48V 25ah battery.

[@emmanuelchinkuyu9724]

Am lntersted

[@TheLinuxExpert]

48v does not pose any danger of electric shock. Please don't mislead people.

[@cleversolarpower]

A fully charged battery is 56V. This is over the low voltage limit of 50V. so it's dangerous in the right circumstances.

[@jamesfarmer-jn4gy]

No anything under 50 volts in considered low voltage a potential difference of .06 ma can kill

[@sylvainfaydally]

Le courant alternatif est dangereux à partir de 60V . Le courant continu est dangereux à partir de 120V dans les conditions normales… valeurs sont à diviser par 2, dans des conditions mouillées 😊… voilà ma contribution. Bonne soirée. From Paris 2024😊

[@timledbetter1781]

Since the 48v batteries I use have a power switch

[@javiercoronel1169]

It's electricity don't matter it depends on the person's health

[@CR8VE]

This video is full of incorrect information. I suggest doing your homework

[@cleversolarpower]

Let's share what you found incorrect here in the comments. So everybody can learn from your viewpoints.

[@ronb6182]

​@@cleversolarpowerthere are questionable ideas but they are never wrong. It's best to keep current draw down. I like your 100 amp idea. The lower the current the better. If you want to put a 48 volt system in a motor home you just need a 48 volt generator or alternator same with RV the alternator puts out way more than it is rated just the voltage regulator keeps current at the right voltage for the load or batteries. I know of people and even on you tube that used a car alternator to put out 110 volts AC. But that's up to the installer that wants to modify or no. I feel everything is correct even the dangers of 48 volts. 73

[@EnSabahNur-ir5mw]

Can you tell me how to get maximum backup from Led acid or tubular batteries? Isn't it ture that Dc system is best for batteries to get maximum backup instead of inverter which converts 12 or 24 volts to 220 volts.

[@cleversolarpower]

I recommend watching my video about sizing an off grid solar system.

[@EnSabahNur-ir5mw]

@@cleversolarpower ok

[@EnSabahNur-ir5mw]

What is RV system?

[@cleversolarpower]

A home on wheels.