Click No Crank No Start Repair - 2013 Nissan Armada - Easy!

[@williamcarter7655]

Removing the starter is a pain, but it’s the near 500 dollar price tag, that really hurts, I can’t thank you enough for this video, I have a 2013 armada as well, was having same issue, initially thinking it was my battery but after attempting to jump and still wouldn’t start, I could hear the starter click but nothing would turn over, also battery checked out fine, as were all my connections, after seeing your video, I went down, wiggled that connection and sure enough, it turned over….ordered new switch, today, thx again!👍🇺🇸

[@fiveable]

Hi William. I'm glad you did some research and found the ignition switch problem before replacing the starter. Still zero starting issues with my Armada since I made the video. Fingers crossed the new switch resolves your starting issue as well. Thank you so much for letting me know you found my video helpful! I really appreciate the feedback! :)

[@watchthewindblowby]

Well done! Parts listed in video is great, and love the 6 week update to let people know that it is or is not still working.

[@fiveable]

Thank you! 😊

[@marcelinoacuna6161]

Thanks bro this helped me out so much .. my trucks been down all week . I found this video took it off cleaned it up an the truck started right away.. u saved me so much $ thankyou

[@fiveable]

Hi, I'm glad you were able to get your truck going again by cleaning the contacts inside your switch. I tried cleaning mine but the contacts were a little too far gone. Thanks for letting me know my video helped you! I really appreciate it!

[@vanessadormond8937]

Hello, thanks for the video, I had problems starting my car and I found this video and it worked very well to change the part and from several attempts I already start my car.

[@fiveable]

I’m glad you found my video helpful and you were able to start your car! Thank you for the nice comment!

[@billsmith2212]

I hear your starter is under the intake manifold . OUCH ! I always go to the " S " terminal on the solenoid and test for a steady signal with a test light . Good you checked the battery and grounds . There is great video with Scanner Danner doing a quick test with a test light . Again , I don't know if you can do that on this vehicle due to the location of the starter .

[@fiveable]

Yes, it’s a pretty terrible location for the starter if you ask me. Basically zero access to the starter without removing the intake manifold. I can’t even tap the solenoid if it gets stuck. Thanks for the “S” terminal info and your comment!

[@peppermarks2793]

WHAT A GREAT HELP THIS VIDEO IS! much appreciated!

[@fiveable]

Glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for leaving comment to let me know!

[@979kk]

Thank you! Blind screw was tough. Ratchet screw driver & longer bit a must. $32 and done!

[@fiveable]

I agree. The blind screw is tough! I’m glad you found the ratchet driver and long bit tip helpful. Thanks!

[@robertAxnznadHdjshshhzjnsFlap]

Going to try this on my 2015 Armada. Weird that when i look up these part numbers I can't find anything that says its compatible with my truck. Most sites say it does NOT fit a 2015 Nissan Armada. I'm going to buy one and see if it matches. Thanks for the video!

[@chrisreinwald1609]

Thanks man, fixed me up

[@fiveable]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks!

[@FreddyRoberts-z3i]

Thank you very much.❤

[@Hdtyt]

Awesome video! Thank you

[@fiveable]

Thanks! I hope it helped you fix a problem and save some $$$!

[@eugenevillanueva]

how did you get your upper body underneath the driver dash to get a good angle? I got an 04 armada and my head hits the brake pedal. I can't get an angle that u have unless I remove the brake pedal. Thanks for your video.

[@fiveable]

I’m 6’0” tall, 215 lbs, so it’s definitely not easy to get in a good position under there. My head was toward the center of the vehicle and gas pedal. If I remember correctly the camera with small tripod was leaning on the brake pedal. Also, It’s really hard to get a good view of the back screw. I had to work on that one mostly by feel. The little screw driver setup I showed in the video made a big difference for me. A good stubby phillips screwdriver might work too but I didn’t have one handy at the time.

[@eugenevillanueva]

@@fiveable thanks. I am 5'11" 210 lbs broad shoulders and just getting my head and arms was difficult. I can't turn the inner screw. I cant see it.

[@fiveable]

Basically same problem fitting under the dash for both of us. That inner screw is the hardest part of the job for sure. When I took it out I was wondering how I would ever get it back in blindly. Keep trying, it can be done by feel. If you are in the US you can find the angle screw driver at Harbor Freight for about $3 and the long Milwaukee Phillips #2 bit at Home Depot. Make sure the tip is seated in the screw head firmly when turning. You really don't want the + in the screw head to get rounded. Best of luck to you with it!

[@InvisibleSandwhiches]

Is this the same for a 2012 QX56?

[@fiveable]

I don’t know but it’s possible since Infinity is also made by Nissan.

[@jacobyrichardson199]

I replaced mine about 3-5 months ago, and it fixed the problem up until this past Friday got in truck and the dreaded click was back messed with it a little then it fired right up,didn’t have issue again until this morning it is random and intermittent just like before ,now it’s back i used a genuine Nissan ignition switch replacement is it possible it already went out?but it’s the exact same click noise associated with the ignition switch could it have already gone bad

[@fiveable]

I suppose it’s possible the new genuine Nisaan switch has gone bad already but it seems very unlikely. Have you checked the battery and the connections? I had a positive battery lead go bad once under the insulation and the cable looked fine. I would check the starter relay as well. The relay can click but not make a connection if the terminals inside are worn or burned out.

[@earlfullwiler3604]

I tried looking up the Carquest part number you have listed in this video, and it says that it doesn't fit a 2013 Nissan Armada.

[@fiveable]

That’s what I was talking about in the video. Most of the parts stores, even Nissan, reference the whole assembly as the part needed, not just the switch on the end. The whole assembly is much more expensive and a lot more work to replace. The part I used in the video for my 2013 Armada should cross reference to the Carquest part and neither of them are listed to fit a 2013 Armada. I haven’t had any issues since replacing the switch. Intensional or not, I believe it is a gap in the indexing of parts for the 2013 Armada. Disclaimer: Do your own research and decide for yourself if the part is correct for your application.

[@earlfullwiler3604]

@@fiveable Ok thanks. I'll check it out.

[@feraidoonashna6865]

You need to add a tag for titan and armada ignition since it did not come up. it did come up under Nissan. this video is hard to find make more tags . good video

[@fiveable]

I made the video because it was really hard to find the specific switch info for my wife’s Armada. Are you working on a Titan with the same type of fob start ignition switch? Thanks for letting me know! I’ll see what I can do to make the video pop up for Titans as well.

[@jacobyrichardson199]

So I got a click when trying to crank last Sunday,after cycling key it crank like no problem,I haven’t had an issue cranking in until about 3:30 today(Thursday)so three days in a row it has crank just perfect,but I was getting ready to leave work around 3:30 and got the damn click but i eventually got it to crank after a few turns and of course started up fine and drove fine,your thoughts? I hope it’s the ignition switch

[@fiveable]

@jacobyrichardson199, sounds a lot like what was going on with the Armada in my video. For reference it had approximately 175k miles on it at the time. Wife would mention it had a hard time starting on first try but not every time. Then it started happening more and one morning it stopped starting even after a lot of tries. So I started trying to figure out if it could be anything other than the starter. I replaced it once because of a bad solenoid and it’s not a simple job. Anyway, a solenoid that is going bad will often work fine first thing in the morning when the engine is cool. Then it won’t start again if you turn it off to do something like run in a store and come right back out. But if you let it cool for an hour or so it starts with no problem. That’s a typical solenoid problem and sounds different than your problem. So if your battery is strong and the battery connections are good it could very likely be the ignition switch or maybe a relay. Both are much easier to replace and cheap compared to replacing the starter. Local auto parts stores charge a lot more than eBay/Amazon sellers for the same parts. It might be worth ordering an ignition switch and giving it a try. I doubt the ignition switch will throw a trouble code so you can’t go by OBD2 codes to diagnose it. You can pull the switch and break it open to see if the contacts are burned inside but at that point you need a new switch anyway. I haven’t had much luck cleaning the contacts and putting it back together. Hopefully the ignition switch part numbers in the video will help with your search.

[@jacobyrichardson199]

@@fiveable thank you I just ordered a ignition switch

[@fiveable]

@jacobyrichardson199 Great! I hope the ignition switch fixes your starting problem. Please let me know either way. Thanks!

[@danri0006]

I successfully replaced mine. But upon testing there was twice I got no crank. But it's now better than before when I had to turn the knob more than 10 times.

[@fiveable]

Thanks for leaving a comment and letting me know the ignitions switch didn't completely resolve your starting troubles. Sounds like the switch was only part of the problem. Hopefully it's not the starter solenoid but it could be if you are getting a click with no crank. In case you missed it, there is some additional information at the end of the video showing what I checked and fixed before I replaced the ignition switch. There is also a starter relay that could potentially be a problem and would be an easy repair. First off, make sure your battery is strong (load test, not just voltage check) and the connections and cables are good end to end. Once, on another car, one of the leads from the battery had a corroded section under the insulation midway through the cable that wasn't visible on the outside. It took me a long time to find it because I wasn't testing voltage drop from one end to the other. When you figure it out, feel free to drop an update in the comments. I'm sure someone else will find the information useful.

[@ZEUSTHEGODD]

Did you ever try to use the back up key in the fob 😂 I turn it like twice And if it won’t start I use the key

[@fiveable]

@ZEUSTHEGODD no, the contacts inside my switch were burned. Using the key wouldn’t have made any difference. Zero starting issues with my Armada after replacing the ignition switch.

[@5020maine]

Yeah sometimes mine doesn’t start then wait like 10-30 seconds it’ll crank up

[@fiveable]

Sounds like it might be a different problem. Are you getting any trouble codes (check engine light)? Could be fuel delivery related, like a bad pump relay, fuel pump motor, or fuel filter.